Bosch s4 006 battery how to charge

What to look for when buying a battery?

The increasing amount of electronic equipment in automobiles and new technologies such as start-stop systems and brake energy recovery systems all require highly efficient batteries.

Frequent engine starts quickly deplete any conventional battery.

By comparison, special Bosch batteries, such as the S5A (AGM) and S4E (EFB), produce much more energy and endure more charging cycles.

Every Bosch battery contains all the expertise of the automotive technology and supply leader.

Battery sulfation

The battery has a deep discharge when its capacity is completely used up. The longer it remains in this state, the more damage is done to the active plate material. Then the sulfation will start, and recharging will become impossible. This damage is irreversible.

If the battery is left in a discharged state for a long time, a chemical reaction known as sulfation will begin, which reduces performance. Lead sulfate is generated on the positive and negative plates during the discharge process and is distributed evenly among them.

• Long time interval between recharges.
• Sulfation interferes with the chemical reaction between the acid (electrolyte) and the active material, which consists of lead on the plates, and this interferes with normal battery operation.
• Even after recharging, the voltage will be low (

Maintenance free batteries appeared on the market quite a long time ago and have gained a strong foothold, having pressed traditional low-maintenance batteries. They are called maintenance free because they do not require addition of distilled water and electrolyte during operation. For this reason, these battery models do not have plugs to access the banks (battery cells). This group includes calcium batteries. Many questions have come from readers of this site about how to charge a maintenance-free car battery. Today’s article will be devoted to this topic.

Battery manufacturer topla

Topla brand belongs to the Slovenian company TAB d.d. Soviet motorists got acquainted with the batteries of this brand back in the ’70s, when the Soviet Union and Yugoslavia still existed. Russians have always appreciated the products of this country, and the battery is also no exception.

History

The first TAB batteries were produced in 1965. Battery production was organized under license from Tudor, a major battery manufacturer. The plant is located in. Mezhitsa. The assembly shop is located in the production area. engaged in lead mining.

A year later, Slovenia began fulfilling orders for the assembly lines of Fiat, a major Italian car manufacturer. It took Slovenians several years to get the right to supply batteries to the factories that produce Peugeot, Citroen and Renault. After 15 years, the need for a Tudor license is no longer necessary: TAB has started to produce its own.

Most of the batteries “TAB d.d.” is produced under the brand name Topla. Half of it is sold in European countries.

Assortment

This brand is presented in the market in several series:

• Topla Start. Includes 4 modifications. Battery capacity is 44-99 Ah, starting current is 390-850A. Models are designed for cars with moderate energy consumption. They are preferred by owners of inexpensive foreign and Russian-made cars.
• Topla Energy. The models of this line are in great demand. They are universal and can be installed on almost any make of car. The range of capacity. 45-110 Ah, starting current. 400-1000 A. products are well able to withstand deep discharge. The series has 18 modifications.
• Topla Top. This series surpasses the previous range in popularity. They belong to the modern development, in the manufacture of which advanced technology is used. Lineup consists of 8 models with the capacity of 54 to 100 Ah and the cold cranking current of 510-950 Ah. Equipped with an indicator that informs the user about the state and degree of charging. Suitable for vehicles equipped with many power consumers.
• Topla Top JIS (Asia). This line can be called a continuation of the previous one, but it is designed for Japanese, Korean and Chinese cars. Varies in terminal design, capacity range (35-105 Ah) and TCP (300-900A). Available in 21 models.
• Topla Top EFB Stop/Go. 5 improved battery versions, designed for cars with Start / Stop function. Produced by the technology of fiber optic bundling of plus electrodes. The design virtually eliminates the risk of core shedding. Unique technology allows to double the number of charge-discharge cycles while maintaining performance.
• Topla Top AGM Stop/Go. The models are made according to AGM technology. The plates are interleaved with a material impregnated with electrolyte. Characterized by high reliability. The range includes 4 models with the capacity of 60-95 Ah. HTP. 680-850 A.
• Topla Top Sealed Truck. Consists of 8 modifications with the capacity of 135-25 Ah and a starting current of 850-1300 Ah. The main characteristics show that the batteries of this line are able to ensure the work of trucks.

For commercial vehicles TAB d.d. manufactures the Topla Energy Truck series. An antimony-calcium alloy is used in production. Htp and capacity no different than Topla Top Sealed Truck.

Technologies

The Topla battery is made using modern technology:

• Expanded Metal: refers to the process of making electrodes. The starting material is strip, onto which a notch is applied, and then the semi-finished product is stretched. The introduction of this technology has led to a 50% increase in CTE;
• Ca-Ca: calcium (up to 0.1%) is used instead of antimony as an additive in the electrodes. This small amount of additive allows for maximum lead purity. At the same time the maximum efficiency of the battery is retained. The batteries became low-maintenance, as the question of periodic topping-up with distilled water is no longer needed.

Topla batteries have a higher number of plates and a double labyrinth lid, which allows the condensate to flow back into the electrolyte and the gases to escape. This design of the cover prevents electrolyte spillage even when the battery is laid sideways.

In addition, fire protection is built into the batteries in case of overheating.

Charging the battery or how to charge an unattended battery

Attention, this statement. is not a guide to action, it is what I use personally, because I recently purchased myself unattended battery Bosch silver S4, these measures I do not impose, and for the accuracy and quality of the statements I am not responsible for. All of the following you do at your own risk. I earnestly ask you to filter all the information available here. Preface.It is worth noting that the old batteries (5 years) should not be charged, or reanimated by any grandfatherly ways. First of all it is useless or only of short term effect, secondly it is not safe. It is nearing the end of its useful life and should rather be disposed of.Requirements for the charger. Batteries that exclude water refilling should only be charged with a device that automatically maintains the charging voltage, and preferably with an automatic limitation of the charging current. Naturally, BE SURE THAT THE POLARITY OF THE CONNECTION OF THE CHARGER AND THE BATTERY IS RUNNING! I.E. “PLUS” to “PLUS”, “MINUS” to “MINUS”! (because not every charger has a “foolproof”)DO NOT FORGET THAT the room MUST BE VENTILATED, because the gases released during this harmful to health, as well as released arsine, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, which when mixed with oxygen in a certain proportion forms an explosive mixture (well, if suddenly you want to arrange home station for charging batteries, and simultaneously put dozens of batteries to recharge : ))))The cost of buying an automatic charger is not justified, so it’s better to look for WHERE you can use it on a one-time basis. A good device will determine the condition of the battery and pick up the necessary charging current. Excellent charger on the Internet will cost in the region of 6-8 Kiloble, such as this ctek.ru/podbor.php?dev_id=105. And don’t forget to clean the battery of dirt, before, experimenting with it. Dirt on the battery will conduct current (shunt the charge circuit), which, altogether, is not good. Also, the battery begins to take more or less charge only after the electrolyte warms up to a positive temperature, so after bringing home the battery from the frost let it “stand still”, or warm up as is clearer to someone.Features.The difference between maintained and unmaintained is the accessibility of the electrolyte filling plugs. Developers made it so that it is not necessary. Nevertheless, it is possible to remove the lid of the unattended battery and get to the plugs. But the point, as a rule, is not. It lasts for life. Yes, any battery that is not serviced should have holes on the sides for gassing and pressure normalization.DO NOT allow, that during charging of the maintenance-free accumulator of voltage on its terminals to increase more than 15,5 volt.The point here is the physics of the process. The battery will draw as much current as it needs to recharge. Exactly for the charge. What you will put into it in excess, by increasing the voltage, it will send mostly for the electrolysis of the water, which is in the electrolyte, and a little bit more. for the heating. So it will simply decompose the water into oxygen and hydrogen at your expense. Distilled water is not in short supply. But it cannot be added to a maintenance free battery. The amount of electrolyte will irreversibly decrease and its density will also increase irreversibly (the water is gone but the acid remains)!)There is another danger. if your battery is heavily discharged (t.н. “deep discharge”) and all the acid has gone into the plates, then start charging it immediately with the nominal charging current DO NOT. There is water between the plates and you will simply electrolyze it.Therefore, in the case of charging the battery with current of dozens of amperes, in a short time, the charge will “cover” its surface and will not let the electrolyte penetrate the thickness of the plates. And in the case of charging with a small current. units of amperes. will restore the charge over the entire thickness of the plate. The term “charge” is somewhat formal here. it is the nature of the distribution of lead sulfate over the thickness of the plate.How to charge.1) Determining the charging current. The charging current should not exceed 1/10th of the battery capacity. For example, if you are interested in how to charge the 12 V 55 Ah car battery, be sure to note that the charging current must not exceed 5.5 A. If the battery is deeply discharged, it should be recharged at a low current (1.5 to 2.0 A). If you’re sure that the battery has not been deeply discharged, connect it to the charger in the correct polarity (see above). The charger unit (charger) should be in the off position. If your charger has a voltage regulator, set it to minimum voltage. Turn on the charger. Set the charging voltage to 14.4V. Now the process is started.2) In the process of charging the current will decrease. The process will be completed when the terminal voltage of 14.4V will bring the current to 200mA (ie.е. 0,2А). You can’t overcharge or damage the battery with that voltage. It will simply reduce the charging current to the battery’s self-discharge current.IMPORTANT: Safe for the battery can be considered a current equal in Ampere to about 1/20 of its capacity in Ampere / Hour, ie, for a battery of 55 Ah it is 2.75A. Dangerous can be considered a current exceeding 1/5 of its capacity in ampere/hours, that is, for a 55 Ah battery this is 11A. Strictly speaking, when it can, it will “eat” more on its own. but only in certain modes and from the same 14.4V on its terminals. But if you use the charger knob to increase this voltage and accelerate it so that 11A will flow through the battery. it will most likely be far from 14.4V DO NOT! The nominal charging current is traditionally considered half a century old current equal to 1/10th of the battery capacity in Ampere/hours, ie, for the battery at 55 Ah is a current of 5.5A. For maintenance free batteries the main charging characteristic is not the current but the LEVEL. This current is useful for evaluating a battery’s state of charge.3) If you have a deep discharge, then charge the battery at a lower voltage (12V).13V), and thus it is necessary to see to it that the current at the beginning of charge does not exceed that 1/20 of its capacity in Ampere/hours (in principle, this should happen automatically, unlike the situation when at once 14,4 V are given to terminals). If it gets higher, lower the voltage even more. It’s normal that the current will increase slowly. It’s acid comes out of the depth of the plates to the outside, lead sulfate gives an influx of acid, the density of the electrolyte increases, the battery is charged. When the current reaches 1/10th of the battery capacity or even more, or even better, when it starts to decrease after this rise, then you can switch to the above described charging process, i.e.е. to set the voltage to 14.4 volts.Now for more information for the doubters like “why batteries which exclude water refilling should be charged only with devices with automatic maintenance of the charging voltage?”When charging with this method (constant voltage charging) the degree of battery charge at the end of the charge directly depends on the magnitude of the charging voltage provided by the charger. For example, in 24 hours of continuous charging at 14.4V, a 12 volt battery will charge 75-85%, at 15V 85-90% and at 16V 95-97%. It is possible to fully charge the battery within 20 to 24 hours at a charger voltage of 16.3 to 16.4V. Therefore, in OUR case (battery not serviced) for a satisfactory (90-95%) charge of modern maintenance-free batteries by means of industrially produced chargers with a maximum charging voltage of 14.4-14.5 V, will require more than a day. And it takes longer to fully charge this type of battery than it does to charge a low-maintenance or conventional battery. At the beginning of the charging process the current intensity at times reaches 40-50A and therefore all chargers should be equipped with circuits which limit the charging current to within 20-25A. The charging time depends on the level of discharge and may take up to THREE days.How to determine the degree of charge of the unattended battery and its densityIt is most likely impossible to determine 100% accurately. It is only possible with some degree of certainty, or approximately. The method of determining the degree of charge by voltage is only valid for batteries which have been in stationary condition for at least 8 hours. The measurement should not be taken earlier than 8 hours after the engine has been switched off. Fully charged battery has a value of 12.7. 12.9 volts at 20 25 °C.

DO NOT allow the battery to be used in either DEFAULT mode or in DEFAULT mode.е. if on-board voltage is lower than 13,9 Volt, and in overcharging mode, i.e.е. when the mains voltage is above 14.4 volts. Therefore at least once in 2 months check level of charging voltage.Useful hintsA battery likes to live fully charged and in cold (cold battery has less self-discharge). if you place the charged battery on constant additional charging with the current equal to its self-discharge current. at any moment it will be 100% charged and there will be no harm to it from such pastime. But in the car, it is better to have a maintenance-free battery at 90 or 95 percent of its capacity. Then, if suddenly there is a surge in the on-board voltage (regulator relay failure or something else) it, as a capacitor, has a chance to “eat” this surge. And without much harm to itself, while saving the electronics, which otherwise would start to smoke.If your car’s alternator and voltage regulator are functioning properly you will never have voltage higher than 15.1 volts in the network (thermal compensation circuit of voltage regulators allow to raise voltage up to such value in cold weather). So when taking care of the battery, don’t forget to periodically check the alternator and voltage regulator.And remember!. Experience increases in direct proportion to the amount of equipment taken out of service.

Application technology and its special features

The highest quality of Bosch products is determined by the newest technologies used in battery manufacturing. These are the peculiarities of production:

• Use of high conductivity alloy in electrode plate fabrication. This achieves high currents and fast charging.
• Especially reliable and durable labyrinth body system. Eliminates electrolyte leaks, makes work safer.
• Special advanced design of the electrode arrays, which increases the starter current up to 115 percent.
• Long service life and minimal tendency to discharge.

In addition, the battery is a brand that is highly resistant to temperature, both high and low. That’s why they can be used all year round without any problems.

How to charge the battery of a Bosch electric screwdriver

your power tool cannot be used without a fully charged battery. However, the first encounter with the process of replenishing the drive with electricity raises a lot of questions. In this article, you will not only learn how to charge the battery of a Bosch electric screwdriver for the first time, but also find some practical tips for extending the life of the storage cell.

Battery Charging Guide for your power tool

Regardless of the type (nickel-metal hydride, lithium-ion, nickel-cadmium), the battery for a Bosch electric screwdriver must be charged according to the following algorithm:

• Remove the battery from the electrical equipment (press the red/blue button at the bottom of the handle and hold it down and pull out the storage cell);
• Install the removed source in the charger unit;
• Connect the charger power supply to a power source (wall outlet).

Use a fully compatible charger for charging. If the charger delivered with the device breaks down, it is necessary to buy a new charger. Choose the drive according to the data on the electrical equipment data sheet.

Game. find one difference

Устройство Bosch S4

(plugs)

Maintenance free batteries are those which do not have access to electrolyte. In other words. they are plug-free. It follows that when charging a maintenance-free battery, it is not possible:

• Measure the electrolyte level.
• To replenish its losses if necessary.
• Measure the density of the electrolyte.
• Adjust it as needed.
• See the boiling process.

And these manipulations are common and very useful for charging regular, serviceable batteries. For example, you yawned with current or voltage and boiled the battery. and you didn’t even see when and how it happened. The electrolyte level has dropped. you can’t refill it. Density: nothing to speak of at all.

Contrary to common misconceptions, briefly described below, maintenance-free batteries are made that way for convenience and safety. Because any improper handling of the electrolyte is always dangerous. Both for the health of the user and for the life of the battery. Acid can burn your skin, cause poisoning and damage your eyesight. And if you top up the battery with electrolyte or even water without understanding what is going on, you can take away its health.

Maintenance free batteries. is an attempt of producers to release motorists from inconvenient and dangerous fiddling with the electrolyte during charging. But don’t think it’s easy. just don’t plug the battery and it’s done. Keep a maintenance free battery. No. It’s more complicated than that. At least if the manufacturer doesn’t provide access to electrolyte, it makes it harder to boil a maintenance free battery by inept charging.

It is possible to achieve this by applying special alloying coatings on lead plates. The most common protection against boiling is calcium. Because it’s on the surface of the plates, the electrolysis process when charging a battery starts at a much higher voltage than without such a coating. For example, if previously usual batteries boiled easily at 14.5 volts, the modern calcium batteries do not boil until you give them 15-16 volts.

Other solutions are being implemented. For example, a well-thought-out system of overpressure relief and balancing between all compartments. Some manufacturers achieve good results by introducing their proprietary electrolyte stirring systems to prevent electrolyte stratification. And so on.

It should be clear from the above that AGM and GEL car batteries should also be considered maintenance-free. Read about how to charge them properly at the links hidden in the names of the technologies. Looking ahead, we note that both AGM and GEL batteries have their own nuances concerning charging. And they are different from batteries with bulk electrolyte. That is, the algorithm provided below for gel and AGM batteries is not appropriate.

Low state of charge

While gasoline fuels a car, the battery is the spark of life that makes it move. Without this initial jolt, the car is dead. There are certain exceptions when it is possible to start the car without the battery, but driving in this case can only be an emergency. The main battery failure is low charge. Common causes of failure:

• Faulty alternator.
• Low voltage output from the regulator.
• High contact resistance caused by loose cable connections or dirt on the terminals.
• Defective equipment causing continuous discharging.
• Sulfation process.
• Battery discharged, charging and level adjustments incorrectly.
• Acid stratification.
• Overcharging caused by high temperatures in the engine compartment.
• Defective voltage regulator.
• High level of corrosion.
• Low electrolyte level and a black layer on the filler are proof that the battery is overcharged.
• Excessive water consumption increases electrolyte density.
• High temperature results in lower internal battery resistance and increased charging current.
• The effect of frequent overcharging.

Recommended: Best Russian car batteries

Boshaw model plus charging

Before you charge a car battery at home, you need to prepare the tools for the job. After removing it, clean the battery terminals with a terminal brush, a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. If there are many growths on the battery terminals and posts, wear protective goggles and a mask to prevent airborne corrosion from touching your eyes, nose, and mouth. Do not touch your face until your hands are washed. This battery model is maintenance free, so you can not open it to check the acid level. Instructions for safely charging a car battery:

• Begin charging the battery as soon as it is discharged.
• To charge the battery, use a special charger and follow the instructions for your particular model.
• Check if the charger is suitable for the job.
• Ensure that the charger is switched off.
• Connect the positive cable of the device to the positive terminal of the battery.
• connect the negative cable of the device to the negative terminal of the battery.
• Set the device to the slowest charging speed.
• Turn on the charger and set the timer.
• When removing the device, first turn it off, then remove the positive and negative cables.
• When charging is complete, the battery panel will show an indication.
• Connect the device to the car and check the operation.
• If the driver is not going to drive the car after charging, then check the battery level after 12 hours to make sure there are no problems with the battery itself.

If the battery charger isn’t working, it may have a serious breakdown and need to be inspected or repaired.