DIY amateur sawing table
Good afternoon to all! During the discussion of one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, participants were asked to do a review of the sawing table I work on. In this review I will tell you how I hastily made a sawing table from what I had, plus some small things I bought. A detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all the elements and components, is attached to the review.
I’ve been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there were a huge number of other things to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when last year I had a more or less calm winter, I came across a series of videos on home-made sawing tables and realized that this is what it is time to do.
In so many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and always with fully equipped workshops with lots of machines, that sometimes you look at the conditions of their work and doubt whether to take it. In this review I will tell you how I made a table in rather Spartan conditions, having in my hands a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and router (just here was the first time tried out the router, which was new in a box for three years).
I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap, but as it turned out, very reliable machine, which has survived and completed so much work on the construction site that it should be placed on a pedestal and in a prominent place in the workshop. But since any tool should work until the end, she was offered a new place.
After the main construction phase of the house, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and it was time to use it somewhere. At that time I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the vision I had in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during implementation, running my eyes over what was in the closet, in the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, I did not do any modeling, but for this review I have already transferred the desktop in a 3D model in SketchUp, tried to present all the components, the only thing I did not draw the nuts and screws, it was lazy, and I already thought more time wasted, because already in principle it is clear and, if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, you can remove the enlarged elements layer by layer, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition or as an idea for their realization.
So, I took a sheet of 21mm plywood, marked and sawed out the base of the table with a circular saw with the size 1100mm x 820mm. The table is big, but I wanted a universal table, on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated chipboard for cabinet making.
Then I turned over the received sheet, marked off, put the circular saw with the raised disk on the sheet, outlined a saw sole with a pencil, and with the router with a groove mill I chose material in the received projection of a sole at depth about 12 mm. The circular saw base is then inserted into the recess. With the saw the handle and the blade guard are preliminarily removed.
Along the contour of the saw sole in the sheet of the table base I made 4 holes for M8 bolts. From the top of the base (back) the M8 whisker nuts were installed. The saw sole is set into the cavity and clamped through the reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base plate.
Then we loosen the depth adjustment mechanism of the saw, plug the saw into the socket and, pressing the saw, saw through the base of the table to its full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we have a disk. Here the most important moment. when installing the saw into the recess not to mix up its direction, in what direction the disk should rotate (disk from the side of the table working surface should rotate on itself), I while tried on, almost mixed up, well in time noticed. By the way, in the model in Sketchup I used a saw from 3D Warehouse and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drives in the SketchUp model (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirror-like, located on different sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw and it was left, the main thing is to indicate correctly the direction of rotation of the disk. Everyone’s saws are different anyway.
Already in this form it is possible to saw on a table:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I placed in the workshop with one side on the shelf of a rack, the other on the back of a chair by the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line of the cut.We take a long aluminum angle (or a bar, or a flat board), place it on the angle relative to the mowing line, fix it to the table with clamps, and we have an improvised temporary parallel stop.
That’s how I sawed all the other parts of the table, while it is slowly assembled.
The first thing I decided to do was to cut out the saw’s guard for dedusting. For the first time in my life I was able to get completely identical parts, like twin brothers, instantly, without adjustment. The cover. four walls of 10mm plywood, the bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glue everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.
To connect the vacuum cleaner I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box with bimetal crown for sewer fitting 50 mm. To attach the fitting to the box, I cut the fitting into sections, inserted the fitting, heated the sections and bent them to the wall of the box, then installed small self-tapping screws on each section, filled the gaps on the back side with hot melt glue. It’s sturdy, and a careless movement of the vacuum cleaner hose won’t rip the fitting out of the casing for sure.
For fixing the box to the table I used 30×30 metal brackets, and 15×30 for the lock. I made flat eyelets from the cut plywood plates 6 mm dremel, glued them to the table, the corners of the box are inserted into them. On the other side of the box we made a kind of lock with a metal plate and self-tapping screws.
connect a vacuum cleaner, try it. all the dust is inside, it does not fly in the face.
We sawed out the longitudinal ribs on the table, and glued them to the base with PVA and self-tapping screws. To these ribs we will also attach the guide profiles of the parallel stop.
Since the surface of the future table must be smooth to slide the workpieces and materials smoothly, and plywood FC 4/4 does not contribute to the normal sliding, we had to invent something with the coating. In general for such tables usually laminated plywood is used, but we only have huge sheets of it, and the basic idea was to use the existing sheet of plywood. A large 4mm thick PVC foam advertising poster came in handy., imprinted on one side only, respectively, the clean white back side is perfect as a cladding material for the table.
I have to say right away that PVC foam is not the best material for this purpose. I do not know how long it lasts, but it leaves grooves and scratches from the sharp ends of the skipped parts. It’s not critical yet, and maybe it won’t be at all, and may have to be changed in the future, or covered with a thin sheet of other material from above. Plexiglas sheet would have been fine for this purpose, but we didn’t have any.
For the future trolleys and pushers in the base of the table need to lay the rails from aluminum profile in the form of channel 15x10x1. To install the base, we marked and made cross slots for the aluminum profiles with a router and a slot cutter. Since we would use 4 mm PVC sheet on top of the table, the grooves were 6 mm deep.
I cut the PVC sheet into three parts, two parts left and right of the profiles, and one part between the profiles. When I put the profiles in the grooves, the following problem was revealed, or rather it is called a joint. Table base sheet with sagging! About 3 mm in the center of the sheet relative to the edges, applied a meter steel ruler, everything is clearly visible. The sheet of plywood has stood for three years in the boiler room, upright against the wall, although it may originally have been crooked. Out of spite, I took an angle grinder, a flap wheel and went outside to repair the deflection by removing the material along the edges. Dust was a bucket. As much patience as I had. I took it off, but the area is large. I decided to fix the rest of the sag as follows. Since I planned to attach aluminum profile and PVC sheets with liquid nails Moment MV-100, in the central part of the sheet and grooves, I made a larger portion of glue, with gaps for later shrinkage during leveling. Evenly glued the edges of the sheet. Then put aluminum profiles in the grooves on the glue, and then to the profiles all three sheets. I took a long aluminum corner 40x40x2 and moving across the table began to align the height in the center of the sheets and profiles relative to the edges. After passing the profile I checked the gaps and evenness of the plates in crosswise, longitudinal and diagonal directions. everything was OK. MV-100 after curing becomes like a stone, respectively, the performance and stiffness of the table was not lost.
Then I had to make a parallel stop. As the main element of the buttress was used aluminum profile 40x40x2 (which I used to level before). To improve the rigidity and weight of the construction of the stop, as well as the ease of installation of subsequent parts, it was decided to glue a wooden bar 30×30 into the profile. I also glued it with MOMENT MV-100. Other parts of the skid also made of profiles and glued double slats of plywood 40mm wide.
For the transverse movement and fixing the stop was chosen a system of C-shaped steel profile, a slider of oak parquet board and a square washer on a long M8 bolt. The head of the bolt good grinded, square thick molded washer (from the bar fasteners of cable tracks) had a recess, where the head of the bolt was sunk and planted on the two-component epoxy adhesive.
On the back side of the bolt, which goes through the transverse clamping element of the stop, we installed a round handle with a handle nut M8 (I also made the handle out of plywood directly on the saw blade)
A square washer with sliders is wound up with C-profile, relative to which the design of the stop moves, when screwing the handle of the stop we press the square washer to the outer walls of the C-profile and fix the stop relative to the table. Also a square washer prevents the bolt from turning in the profile when the handle is screwed in.
On the reverse side of the table also posted a C-profile, and wanted to do the same system, but feared that the stop will be heavily jammed when moving, and I need fixing and the reverse side, too, I need flatness stop relative to the axial mowing line from both sides, and with fixing only one point does not always work, where it will be flat, and in some position and 2-3 mm, perhaps not ideal C-profile, although it looks flat. I have thought up a construction much simpler: in the bottom of C-profile I have placed the detail. runner, with the stud M8 fixed in it, and through the intermediate element and the stop I have drilled a hole and brought out the counter part of the stud on which has planted other handle with the whisker nut M8. Now screwing the handle, I press the slider to the C-profile through the stud and thus fix the far part of the stop in relation to the table.
The work with the stop is as follows:. I loosen both handles on the stop;. I move the stop in the required direction;. I measure the required distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut in the lower part of the stop with a square;. I fix the lower part with a handle;. I check the distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut in the upper part of the stop;. I fix the upper part with a handle;. You can saw.
To work with parts and workpieces on the table a simple carriage and a small pusher with guide sliders were made.
The construction of slide and pusher is made of remains of laminated wood chipboard 16 mm, used in the pusher aluminum profile 40x40x2. The sliders for the runners were made from oak, I cut thin strips from an oak parquet board. Glued the sliders to the slide with PVA and self-tapping screws. To improve sliding of the oak slider in the guide aluminum channel, I impregnate the oak laths with spray silicone grease, the wood absorbs it and slides perfectly in the profile without jamming.
The workshop room in the house is very small, so the table must be collapsible (not needed. disassembled), and portable, so you can take it outside to work. That’s why it was decided to make the table legs in the form of removable vertical frames with struts. At the bottom of the table, in the form of plywood slats, were glued mating parts with M8 whisker nuts to fasten the frames of the posts to the table with bolts with washers.
For electrical connection of the saw I installed right next to the saw a socket, it connects regular mains plug of the saw. The socket I connected from the contactor, the contactor is controlled by a START/STOP button unit mounted on a separate plate on the front side of the table. Power the contactor with a separate long cable to a wall socket. The trigger on the saw is secured with a cable tie.
I also use a homemade cyclone from a bucket, cover and sewer fittings to collect dust and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner:
What are the problems and what I plan to finish:
The table works, very well, you can see what I did on it in my other reviews. For non-professional use is enough. It was easy to make, fast and not expensive. Of course there are much more advanced designs, but they require more time and money. If you have any additional questions/criticism/Комментарии и мнения владельцев/suggestions for improvement, I think all will be useful, as on mysku the Комментарии и мнения владельцев are a big treasure trove of knowledge.
Циркулярный раскроечный станок. своими руками. Circular cutting machine with their own hands.
Construction of the routing table
If you want, you can make a homemade milling table of the usual workbench, but it is better to make a special design. The reason is that the machine with the cutter creates a strong vibration when working, so the bed, used to fix the cutter, must be highly stable and reliable. Keep in mind also that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the router table top, so there should be enough space under it.
When attaching the device to the table top of the homemade hand router table, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for the milling machine. Such a plate can be made of metal sheet, textolite or strong plywood. On the bottoms of most models of milling machines already have threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device with the table top and mounting plate. If such holes are not available, you can drill them yourself and thread them, or use special clamps for the milling machine.
Cutters for different types of machining on the milling table
Milling machine clamps or mounting plate must be positioned at the same level with the table top, for this purpose in the latter is made a choice of appropriate dimensions. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for its connection to the table top by means of self-tapping screws, and others. so that such a plate could be fixed to the cutter base. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be sure to have a countersunk head.
To make the inclusion of your homemade router more convenient, on the table top you can place an ordinary button, as well as a button-mushroom, which will make your device more and more safe in operation. To improve the convenience of your home machine tool, you can fix a long metal ruler on the surface of the router table, made for a hand router with your own hands.
Before you start constructing a router coordinate table with your own hands, you need to determine the place where it will be located, as well as decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate milling machine with their own hands (the table will be located on the side of the saw equipment, serve as its extension), a compact table machine, freestanding stationary equipment.
Opt for a compact tabletop machine for wood and other materials if you use it infrequently or frequently outside your workshop. This unit, which is characterized by its small size, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.
If the size of your workshop allows, it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine under the milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on the desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be put on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.
The simplest milling table or drill table can be made very quickly. To make such a design, easily located and on an ordinary desktop, you need a sheet of chipboard, on which the guiding elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for the milling table, you can use an ordinary board of small thickness, which is attached to the table top with bolts. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.
To cut the router into the table, you will need to make a hole in the chipboard sheet to place it, and it will be fixed to the table top, it will be using two clamps. After that, the fabrication of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of such a design more convenient, you can place the simplest clamps for the milling machine on the table top.
Homemade multifunctional table 3 in 1 milling machine circular saw jigsaw
Dear visitors site samodelkin a friend today we will look at the instruction on how to make a multifunctional table 3 in 1, which has a circular saw, router, jigsaw Every self-respecting carpenter should have in his workshop such a table, because it is very convenient to work, all at hand milling, jigsaw, circular saw is all stationary, but you can also remove the power tool from the table and work in hand. That is, everything is placed in such a way that no changes are made to the construction. Power supply is carried out through the socket, the only thing necessary to lock the button (start) in the operating position with a plastic clamp.
The table is assembled from 12 mm plywood with several compartments for placement of power tools, as well as an additional compartment for installation of a cyclone filter, and the tool is equipped with a flexible corrugated hose for efficient dust extraction. We make 3 technological apertures in the table top, milling the edges, making a recess in order to plant and recess the sole in the cavity of the plywood, thus obtaining an even table. Each tool has its own separate socket and switch (on/off) For the convenience of movement to the table in its lower part are screwed wheels, which allows you to easily move it around the workshop.
Let’s start to look at the step-by-step assembly.
- power tools (circular saw, jigsaw, router).
- 10-12 mm plywood
- corrugated hose
- self-tapping screws
- filter cyclone
- plug socket 3 pcs
The step-by-step process of assembling a multifunctional table with 3 in 1 jigsaw, milling machine, circular saw with your own hands.
Makeshift multifunctional machine circular saw, jigsaw and router three in one
First we mark and saw out the blanks from plywood sheets.
Assemble the table, drill holes for wood screws. Drill under the angle with the mandrel. Assemble the table and screw in the self-tapping screws. We tighten the corners with clamps. We drill holes for technological apertures. Saw a technological opening for installation of the tool with the jigsaw. Use milling cutter to make a groove. Mounting the router. Install circular saw. Finished. put the jigsaw in its place. Install the table top. Cover the work surface with a stain. Paint on the side with white paint. For easy movement of the table in the workshop screw the wheels. Electrical wiring diagram. Attach crimped hose for dust extraction. Putting on the doors. Done Checking the table in action. It works just fine. As you can see the multi-functional table is 3in1 could gather even a girl, so that you surely will succeed, there is nothing complicated in this case is not. This table is very low cost and will cost you a mere penny, and if there is a good material, so even free Hopefully our material has helped you. Thank you very much for your attention!
Makeshift circular saw machine
Most carpenters and woodworkers, want to have a universal unit in the economy, but how to make such a device on their own, many do not know. In this guide, you will learn how to make a universal milling table with your own hands. The advantages of the universal woodworking machine is that there is no need to have several units and walk with the workpiece from one to another while working. The one and only, will be on one table, and perform the actions of several units. Of course, the limitations of such a device are present, and to make an absolutely universal woodworking machine is not possible. But to make a table for the router with their own hands, which will be present electric planer and circular saw, is quite realistic. To make the idea a reality, you need to take care of the consumables, as well as the tools that will be needed to create a precise and level table on which the units will be fixed. Since the device on the table will not be one, you need to make a wider and longer table. In order not to spoil materials in vain, you must first draw a scheme and location of future devices on a piece of paper. This is an extremely significant argument, because the effectiveness of the machine directly depends on the competent arrangement of all elements. Take care of the position of each unit beforehand. If the task seems very complicated, you can use ready-made diagrams and drawings. Thus, craftsmen make a table for a circular saw with their own hands, without the help of experts.
Why do you need a table for a router?
Professional masters don’t ask such a question, they have separate milling machines. It can be not only woodworking equipment of industrial series, but also special machines for domestic use. As a rule, complex machines with a circular cutter, planer, router and drilling machine in various combinations on the same bed.
Ordinary amateurs do not need to buy such equipment, an ordinary hand router is enough for them. But situations arise when many people consider making a table for a router. Why?
- It is not possible to mill by hand, the tool does not move in a straight line mowing line, the surface of the parts is wavy. You have to go through the same place several times, and it has a negative impact on the final quality.
- The need to mill long workpieces only on the table it is possible to perform this operation in just one pass.
- There is a need to work on cutters with a complex profile, the manual method does not provide the required surface finish.
It should be noted that not all technological operations can be done on the table, there are some that can only be performed by a hand router. For example, profiles with a closed contour in the center of the workpiece cannot be milled on the machine.
Step-by-step instructions for making
To make a table for a circular saw at home you need to buy the following tools:
- electric jigsaw;
- electric screwdriver;
- milling machine;
- Measuring tool tape measure, ruler, pencil.
Let’s look at the order of construction assembly on concrete examples.
Lift table for circular saw
Approximate design drawing the dimensions to be chosen individually:
Step by step instructions for assembling a table with a lifting mechanism from a wooden bar:
- Level the boards with the plane plane plane. Assemble the frame. On 4 sides of the worktop make holes with a diameter of 0,5 cm. Drill one more through hole for the legs of the table;
- Repeat the same procedure for the side members. Also put one through hole each in the legs. Do not change the diameter of the holes;
- install the dowels in the tabletop. Coat them with carpentry glue beforehand. Fix the workpieces on the markings made when the surface is horizontal. This will ensure that the saw will return quickly when removed without the use of markings;
- Position the disk in the set area. To get the longitudinal hole, saw the base. Turn the construction;
- Proceed to assemble the parallel stop. Saw off two strips from a sheet of plywood. The average width of the workpiece 100 mm. Note! It must coincide with the width of the table. Round the surface of the corners;
- If you plan to use the machine often, secure the stop to the base. Connect the rail so that it is positioned to the disk at a 90 degree angle. Attach the start button on the bottom of this will put the device in motion;
- attach the legs to the table top;
- secure the saw to the tabletop;
- install the start button.
Assembly is complete, and the design is ready for use.
- Make sure that the saw is firmly locked into place before you connect the mechanism;
- Do not hold the material you are sawing with your hands;
- Wear safety glasses.
If you decided to assemble a table with a wide range of functions and found the right drawing, get to work. Be prepared for a lot of work to be done, you will need carpentry skills.
Proceed in several steps:
- Drill holes at an angle so it is easier to screw in screws;
- to arrange the tools, make special openings in the tabletop;
- connect the frame and table top;
- Cover the surface of the plywood with stain in 2 layers;
- grind the frame with a grinder and paint it with light paint;
- to make the table maneuverable, attach the wheels to the legs when you finish working, the product can be stowed in a corner so it does not take up space;
- assemble the electric circuit;
- Connect the corrugated hose it is necessary to remove the dust;
Simple and cheap table for a manual circular saw from improvised materials
Consider the construction of the metal frame and wooden tabletop.
Once you have made a sketch or found a ready-made version on the Internet, proceed to the preparation of materials.
The first step is to make a frame for the future tabletop. Old profile pipes are good for this. Clean and sand the metal if necessary. Work according to the scheme:
- Weld four side posts;
- In the areas of the joints, run a wheel to sand the surfaces;
- Attach screws to the end parts of the legs with the ability to adjust the level of uneven surfaces;
- Paint the structure this will protect the metal from corrosion and give the product an attractive look;
- drill holes to fix the table top.
Wooden circular saw
Alternative variant for metal construction woodblock table. Suitable board section of 50 x 100 mm.
- self-tapping screws;
- metal corners;
- Composition for the treatment of wood of the negative effects of moisture. You can buy it in a building supermarket.
If you have an old table, it may well serve as the basis for your product. The main thing is to make sure that the wood retains its natural strength.
Tip! Experts recommend not to save money on the table top make it of the new material wood, aluminum or waterproof plywood. In the latter case, two 12 mm thick sheets are glued together. The double surface will support equipment weighing 4 4.5 kg.
“A circular saw from a circular saw.
Among self-taught carpenters, it is believed that turning a manual circular saw into a machine tool is the easiest method of obtaining “three birds” at once, namely:
- The high quality of the cut, guaranteed by the high rotation speed of the saw;
- the shaft mounted in the collector motor on bearings, withstanding the radial load with honor;
- ideal (cantilevered) mounting of the disc, it enables relatively fast changing of cutting tools, so there is no need to disassemble the circular saw.
The main advantage of making such a machine is the “native” motor, which guarantees maximum performance thanks to the ideal torque, optimal rpm. Other advantages of this solution:
- Relatively simple locking system that lets you remove the saw quickly in the event of a major need.
- Powerful engine that ensures long working life because of the ability to withstand considerable loads.
- Normal thermal regime, which is guaranteed by forced ventilation of this hand tool.
- It’s possible to get sufficient cutting depth by using discs of big diameter. 60-75 mm. the size that gives a good chance to make high-quality blanks for various products made at home.
Stand and table top
Modification of the hand saw into a circular saw machine begins with making a table (or housing-box), on the reverse side of which the power hand saw will then be mounted so that part of the cutting edge protrudes over the surface of the table top.
The shape and size of the table is chosen, focusing on the size of future lumber. If you plan to make small size workpieces, length 1500 mm and width 600-700 mm are enough. For the manufacture of the bed of the circular saw is suitable steel angle, which has a shelf width equal to 25-30 mm. The top and bottom of the structure reinforced with struts made from the same angle or rebar. This option is optimal to ensure the maximum rigidity of the frame of the machine.
For the tabletop often choose laminated chipboard or OSB, some masters stop at plywood, the thickness of this material. 15-20 mm, but you can take a thinner material, and then join together 2 sheets. Elements composing the table top do not necessarily have to be of the same size and be symmetrically located relative to the bed. The main thing is that the structure is not at risk of overturning.
A notch in the worktop is made for sliding the blade. The part of the table surface that will be adjacent to the cutting tool is often covered with tin plate, metal sheet (aluminum, steel), textolite or plastic. This solution makes moving the timber as easy as possible.
Modification of saw control
These operations can only be carried out if the tool’s warranty period has expired. For ease of control of the circular machine, the contacts of the button and the knob (lever) lead to an external electrical switch, which is mounted on the body in a convenient location, but there where accidental pressing is completely excluded.
If the owner foresees the possibility of periodically removing the hand-held tool in the future, the contacts are fixed with duct tape or a clamp. The wire of the circular saw is then plugged into the carrier, which is equipped with a pushbutton switch.
It is necessary for the precise cutting of materials of different widths, therefore, this ruler (stop) must be able to move parallel to the cutting edge. Such element is also made of steel angle. Slots are made in the tabletop, in which the ends of the rail are fastened with screws.
A simpler option. pine board. Its width. 40 mm, its length. 200 mm more than the table. First, nuts are pressed into the lower part of the projecting edges, and L-shaped hooks are fixed with screws. After installing the board on the worktop of the circular saw, they are tightened with screws, thanks to them, the hooks are raised and securely fasten the ruler. Just as easily it can be moved to any place.
This is a sufficiently large plane, made of durable, good load-bearing material. It is important that the surface is horizontal, without irregularities. otherwise the work will be very difficult. Usually the tabletop is made of wood or its derivatives. This is due to the fact that wood (plywood, particle board and similar materials), released in the form of a board, already have an even and smooth surface and well absorb vibrations during work. A cutout (hatch) is made in the worktop, and a hand router is attached from below. The standard models provide fixing to the horizontal plane, and whether to do it on the top or bottom side is up to the user.
In addition to the table top, you need supports. strong, stable, able to withstand a significant load. For them go with a solid bar (section of 40×40 mm), flat panels, metal studs or welded metal (assembled on the corners and plates) frame.
In addition to the already listed mandatory elements of the milling table with their own hands, there are additional, significantly facilitating the work:
Metal plate superimposed on the table top in the place of the cut
It protects the wood from excessive loads, mechanical damage, simplifies the work with cutters. Another important advantage is the reduced thickness of the table, i.e. it provides a greater working stroke of the cutter compared to a thicker table top. When using 23 mm thick inserts, almost the whole travel of the bur (3570 mm, depending on model) can be used, and for tabletops with thickness of 20 mm all these millimeters are “deducted” from the possible working depth. The plate is attached to the table top with screws (self-tapping screws) and must, if necessary, quickly remove, so it is better to strengthen the sockets for mounting nuts or other elements with internal threads of suitable diameter hammered into the wood. Cutter itself is attached from below to the plate, not to the table top, and can be lifted together with it. it’s convenient if you need, for example, to replace a cutter with an electric jigsaw or drill to drill many holes in a long piece.
Plate for the cutter in the table with his hands should be of high quality, preferably non-rusting steel, hard and strong, not less than 2 mm thick (depending on the weight of the cutter and the properties of steel). A hole for the mill is necessarily processed at the edges, as to change the cutters will have to quite often and remove the device for this every time stupid. And fingers are a pity, wounds from metal burrs don’t do them any good.
Designed to move the workpiece smoothly and evenly along a given direction. The simplest guides are a flat bar, screwed/nailed/glued to the table top at the required distance from the cutter. A more “advanced” variant is the rails with the ability to shift and/or rotate. The easiest way to do it is to fix the guide to the table with clamps, but this variant doesn’t guarantee the firm fastening. under the action of vibration the thread on clamps “relaxes” and the guide starts to move away from the set position. That’s why it is better to provide a number of fixings for the guide. with the possibility to shift the guide relative to the cutter’s axis, with the possibility to rotate by a given degree.
By gluing (cutting out) on the lateral edges of the table top the markings in the form of ordinary centimeter tape and providing on the ends of the longitudinal guide the latches for tight fixation, it is possible to provide quick change of distance from the working tool to the extreme plane of the workpiece.
Parallel stop for milling machine with your own hands can be made on the screws, but then you can move it only with a certain pitch, corresponding to the pitch of the threaded holes for mounting in the table top. Another very convenient variant is to fix aluminum (steel) guides on the end faces of the table top and provide the parallel stop with sidewalls with screw fixings for these guides. Then you can move it smoothly.
If you make a horizontal insert in the offset guideway from aluminum (steel) profile with moving vertical stops, it is easier to clamp the workpiece.
It still has to be pressed by hand, but at least the initial fixation can be provided. These stops can also be end stops, i.e. they can limit the workpiece’s stroke from and to. for the entire length of the milling process.
Guides for the milling table with their own hands can be done using ready-made elements (from other machines, bought in a construction store). for example, the factory presser with slots for vertical movement, or even the whole upper part, assembling only a support.
Another important point: in the parallel stop, in the place where it will be closest to the working cutter, it is worth making a cut of a rectangular or rectangular shape with a rounding at the top. Vacuum suction hose or at least a dust bag can be attached on the back of the unit.
Very useful addition when milling. An integrated nozzle, positioned in the working area, enables chips and dust to be evacuated directly to the container without polluting the working atmosphere.
Optional on/off switch
It is better to place it on the side of the table (on the support) under the right hand (under the left hand for left-handers). Believe me, it is awkward to climb under the table every time in order to turn off the milling machine, the switch allows you to get rid of such a need. It is also a good idea to provide a place for the power cord to keep it from getting tangled underfoot, or perhaps an additional socket on a stationary workstation.
Will help to increase the table area noticeably if large/long parts need to be milled. They are mounted on special folding brackets or on piano-mounted hinges with supports.
Drawers and shelves
It is better to arrange them at the bottom, under the table top, because the top plane of the table is not necessary to occupy. The drawers can be made with additional plates. holders for replacement cutters, small tools, other things.
Very helpful for a mobile table under the hand router with his hands will be the wheels on the legs. unlikely, will have to move the device from one part of the shop to another. If the floor is uneven, they can. and should. be replaced by adjustable supports to be able to make the countertop exactly horizontal.
Router table with my own hands. Author Gennady g. Sevastopol
Let’s make a router table for wood: tabletop size 670 x 1005 x 30 mm, table height 850 mm. Milling table allows you to: get a more accurate degree of material processing. Rigidly mounted router, confidently cuts different types of wood, plastic, coated chipboard. On it you can not only remove the bevel, but also make groove, slot, kerf, spike, groove, shaped choice of profile. Speed up the milling process (a lot of time was spent on fixing the part).
This table can be used as an assembly table.( the cutter is lowered; a blank washer was put in the milling plate; clamping clamps or clamps can be installed in the guide profiles with a t-track). Helps to save space in the workshop (in the drawers built into the table holds quite a lot of tools).
Milling table made of 15 mm plywood. The cutting was performed with a hand hypoid saw on a handmade guide from a profile pipe. Marking was performed using Swanson Speed Square metric square 250mm for the carpenter and cabinetmaker with instructions in Russian.
After cutting the table was assembled on the oblique screws Kreg 19.1 mm long and was additionally glued by moisture-resistant glue Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue 1415. The connection on the cassette screw was made with these tools: 1.Universal pliers (clamp) with a wide grip Wood Project 76 mm Automaxx Kreg KHC3-INT HIT! 2. Set Kreg Quick Change Kit For drilling and screwing with quick tool change QUIK-KIT. 3. Portable base for the Kreg Jig drill jig KPDGB 4. Drilling mandrel interchangeable for K3 and K4 Kreg 5. Screws 19 mm coarse pitch Kreg.
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The tabletop itself was also made of moisture-resistant plywood. but only with laminated veneer in two layers. The tabletop and the concealing of the veneer ends of the veneer.upholstered with oak laths. The oak lath board was first leveled with a dual-mode plunge Triton TRA001 microlift router 2400W and 42x6x70x8 SLB cutters Dimar 1601045., and then sawn on the circular table and run through the thicknesser. The rails were fixed with studs and moisture-resistant glue Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue 1415.
All drawers are made of 8mm thick plywood with studs and glue. Once assembled, the drawers were installed in the table on the furniture rails in the table. The fronts are made of 15 mm moisture-resistant plywood., attached to the drawers with glue and handles. The entire table frame and drawers were coated with yacht varnish. The router table was installed on swivel wheel supports with a brake. In the rear of the table was mounted on a wire reel (length 15 meters cross section of 4 mm square three wires) and a socket for a vacuum cleaner. and in the right side of the table mounted the start/stop button and the button to turn on the cutter backlight. Lighting made with 220v LED strip. All wiring was installed in a conduit. Another outlet was installed in the middle compartment of the router table.
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A glass door with a catch was installed in the table (the noise was almost halved after installing the door). Edges of the table top have been machined with a two-mode plunge cutter microlift cutter Triton TRA001 2400W with edge router. A guide rail with two slots T-track 45.6 mm anodised, matt silver 1 m was inserted into the tabletop TR045.1000. and stainless steel router plate. The guide rail is fixed with self-tapping screws and epoxy adhesive. Adjustment of the plate in relation to the table surface is done with furniture fittings. A replaceable washer was built into the plate. which varies depending on the diameter of the cutter used. The router plate has metric scales for accurate parallel stop installation.
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The parallel stop is made of T-track profile rail 100 mm with two cover plates, anodised, matt silver, 1 m Art TR100.1000N in which the hole for the cutter has been cut. The sliding jaws are made of glued textolite with plywood (the textolite was not thick enough for a full-size jaw).The jaw was cut from the textolite. glued on the plywood; after gluing, overlapped with a milling cutter on the milling table; through slots were made (for the clamping screws); polished and lacquered. After the lacquering the flanges were set on the end stop and tightened with wingnuts. Restrictor stops were installed on the guide rails.Parallel stop slides on guide rails with aluminum slide. attached to the stop with metal angles (m8 bolts). The thumbscrew nuts for the stop were set on the metal brackets. Plastic dust outlet for a vacuum cleaner is installed.
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All nuts and bolts are protected by plastic caps.
The parallel stop was glued on Kreg self-adhesive ruler 3.5 meters long with right-to-left metric scale KMS7728 HIT! Two sets of 3010 True-flex rotary clamps installed on the milling table and the end stop Kreg PRS3020 HIT !- for clamping workpieces.
The router table is also equipped with an angle stop with a guide along the 19 mm T-slot JET 60630T. The spindle moulder has a guide rail that runs parallel to the guide rail.
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The milling table has a dual-mode plunge router with microlift Triton TRA001 2400W.
In my opinion it is the most suitable cutter for the router table and for levelling the surface of slabs. Advantages of the router:
Cutter has a microlift through the boom, which allows you to adjust the reach of the cutter without unnecessary movements (and the need to crawl under the table)
A spindle lock is available, which locks when the burr is fully raised, making it possible to replace the burr with one hand.(but be sure to turn off the start button on the mill. with the button is on the cutter does not rise to the end and the spindle will not lock).
Possibility to mount milling cutters with different shanks.
Disadvantages: have not found yet. There are a few little nuances that I can not call it a drawback after buying: Disassembled, lubricated the guide rails. were jammed; disassembled the spindle lock. After lifting the cutter when loosening the nut, the spindle was torn and badly fixed, the spring fixer was compressed (in the package the cutter is in the reined position, the spring is permanently compressed), I stretched slightly and lubricated. everything works. Heavy when milling in the hands. for these purposes, there is another model Triton MOF 001 1400w.
The milling table is quite roomy. all the tooling and more is placed in drawers.
I hope my project will be useful to master carpenters and novice carpenters in general to all those who breathe roughly to carpentry crafts. Those who want to read other works can in The handyman (Gennady Kriskovets)
Gennady got a milling table. It will work for YOU too!
The team of “Arsenal Masters RU” online store continues the tradition of sharing Russian experience
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