Circular saw with their own hands with a lifting mechanism

A stationary circular saw with your own hands. Sawing machine with their own hands from a circular saw

Circular saw is a specialized equipment used for sawing wood, laminate, some varieties of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing unit can significantly reduce the time and improve the quality of the result. If there is no possibility to buy a factory-made model, you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more materials and details are available, the cheaper is the realization of the project.

Stationary circular saw is designed for sufficiently high volume of work. The design of the realized variant in two views is presented in the scheme below. It shows also main dimensions of the installation. which it is recommended to use as a reference for self-assembly.

In the drawing the figures correspond to the following constructive elements of the home-made equipment:

  • 1. frame (bed);
  • 2. side panel;
  • 3. starting device;
  • 4. table height adjustment mechanism, 13. its stops;
  • 5, 6 and 7. two halves of the sawing table with the base;
  • 8. electric motor;
  • 9. motor mounting platform;
  • 10. stud bolts (M10);
  • 11. circular saw;
  • 12. shaft;
  • 14 and 16. driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
  • 15. belt;
  • 17. switch.

Board! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts, located under the table, should be closed with covers. A protective cover should be installed over the blade when the machine is not in use.

It is better to place the starting device on a visible place of the panel (made of dielectric material), so that the access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine by all means an emergency stop switch. It is convenient if it is of large size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit, making it with a planer or planer. For this purpose, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft and make a cut-out in the table for it of appropriate size. It will allow to expand the functionality of the created installation: to plan the saw-timbers, to chamfer and quarter wooden workpieces.

If regular carpentry operations are planned on a homemade machine, it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with a few rails. They need to be fixed at different angles. For productive work it is also necessary to have variable speed control for the motor and a quick change of circular saw blades if necessary.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and the cost of manufacturing. To achieve this, it is necessary to choose materials and parts with the right characteristics. To reduce costs, start with old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making the bed with the table

The following materials can be used for the frame channel bars or metal angles (the size is sufficient from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm). If these materials are not available, the most economical option is to buy them at a scrap yard. On the legs of the machine will go plumbing or profile pipes made of metal.

Tip! Framework elements should be connected to one another by electric welding, because screw joints loosen under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the base, spacers must also be welded in the corners to give the frame rigidity. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim), equipped with locks. Keep in mind that the more solid the machine, the more stable it must be to avoid injury.

The main requirements for the table for the circular saw: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand without bending workpieces weighing more than 50 kg and the smoothness of the surface. Sheets of the following materials have these characteristics

If you use moisture-resistant plywood. it should be pre-rubbed with zinc-coated tin. Particleboard or OSB should not be used because these materials are not resistant to vibration.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes misaligned due to bending, the disc could become jammed. Not only could this cause damage to the workpiece, it could also lead to injury.

For various operations (e.g. splitting logs into planks) it is necessary to equip the table side stop. It fulfills the same function as a hand-held circular saw blade: it ensures a smooth cut of the lumber. Its use allows to obtain blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the blade to avoid it jamming. It can be made from a wooden bar or a metal angle. In the first case, only hardwoods should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the fence must be removable. It can be fixed with the help of clamps or in special grooves (bolts), made parallel to each other on the worktop surface.

Choice of motor and starters

As a drive for the considered variant of the homemade circular machine is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its output must be matched to the forthcoming load. Indirectly, you can be guided by the diameter of the installed disk:

  • if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor of 1000 watts;
  • for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a motor of 500 W will suffice.

In the latter case, it is possible to manufacture the driving mechanism from a washing machine motor. Capable of operating for long periods at medium load. An electric motor from an industrial air handling unit is suitable for disc diameters of 350 mm. It must be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

You can also equip self-made equipment With a three-phase motor (380 V) of suitable power. To start it from 220 V mains you will need to install additional working (phase shifting) and starting capacitors in the electric circuit. Please note also that in this case the motor capacity will be lower than the rated capacity shown on the motor dataplate or in the certificate.

Starting equipment should be selected on the basis of motor power, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a starter button in conjunction with a thermal protection. this protects the motor from burning out the windings, if the current increases when the disc jams. The protection is best located in a separate electrical box attached to the side of the machine on a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated, so that the wires do not short-circuit the bed of the homemade circular electric saw. the on and off buttons must be pressed without any force. Because of the frequent outdoor storage of the equipment, the electrical part should be well Protect from getting wet. The easiest way is to cover the machine with oilcloth or a similar impermeable material.

Transmission, Shaft and Disc

To transfer the rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt in conjunction with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is because if the disc jams, the belt will simply slip and the gear transmission, because of its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Tip! If you use pulleys with different diameters, you can change the speed of the disk and install different types of pulleys on the machine. This is true in the absence of a regulator of motor speed.

Making a shaft It is better to entrust it to a specialist, ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular electric saw more functional, equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a prefabricated part. Its sample is shown in the photo below.

The advantages of creating it with your own hands

The table is made taking into account the fact that the hand tool will be installed and fixed on the table, turning it into stationary equipment

Building with your own hands the element allows you to make the saw as suitable as possible for individual conditions. Difficulties in the process will not arise if you carefully study the question. You can adjust the product to the required size, distribute everything so that it is convenient for you.

Making a table for a circular saw is quite within the power of every craftsman

The self-made model will be one of a kind, which makes it unique.

Small table top for the circular saw

Decide on the design and construction

The simplest variant of the table for the circular saw is a construction from thick enough plywood and boards

The base can be made of wood or metal. For the table top choose leafy species of wood. A special hole should be made in it for the disk. The key feature of the created table should be convenience.

Care must be taken to ensure its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will have a negative effect on safety. The tabletop should have the flattest possible surface. Then the likelihood of injury at work will be reduced.

The table for the circular saw requires the mandatory presence of guides

The construction can be supplemented with a special riving knife. It can be removed. It is equipped with a special disc protector, which allows getting rid of the chips flying into the worker.

The guide carriage of the table for the circular saw

Some people remove the factory guard and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not plan to saw at an angle, you can remove the parts that regulate the slope of the blade.

Making the table top

The worktop is sawn out of plywood with the jigsaw to the required dimensions. Workpiece is machined with sandpaper or a grinder. The edges of the table top are milled.

On the underside of the sheet is made a marking for fixing the hand saw. A sector for the hole for the disk is marked.

If you plan to saw blanks at different angles, the kerf should have a trapezoidal contour with the expansion downwards. The groove is cut with the manual circular saw and ø10 mm holes are pre-drilled on the ends of the planned sector. Also it is necessary to make holes in the bed of the tool and in the table top for bolt fastening.

The next step is to mark out the frame for the horizontal surface of the table. The perimeter ribs should be 5-10 cm away from the edge of the tabletop. Sawed out to the size boards are applied by the end to a marking on the bottom surface of the sheet, their contours are outlined with a pencil.

In the middle of the marked contour of the frame, a central line for the trimmer is drawn.

On it marked places for self-tapping screws to fix the ribs. For fasteners through holes are drilled with a chamfer on top for the embedding of the flats. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in every 10-20 cm, 5 cm from the corners of the frame.

Boards are placed on the carpentry glue along the planned perimeter and clamped with clamps.

After the glue dries, without removing the clamping devices, screw in self-tapping countersunk screws. In the corners in the end face of the frame screwed two self-tapping screws. Then to the finished tabletop it is necessary to attach the stable legs.

Assembling the table for the circular saw

Boards, prepared for the legs, are cut to length at a slight angle with a narrowing to the bottom.

The upper ends are also beveled, so that the construction stands with a small spread. legs are screwed to the table top frame through the drilled holes. For better strength of the connection, square bars glued into the inner corners of the frame can be included in the screed.

It remains for the circular saw to install the working mechanism. The handheld circular saw is mounted to the table top of the machine from below. The disk is inserted into the cutout, the device is secured with screws, the heads of which should be recessed from above into the plywood sheet flush.

As a protective layer for the material and to improve the sliding of workpieces, the tabletop and other wooden parts of the machine are coated with varnish in several layers. The surface of the tabletop can be marked to trim the ends of skirting boards or platbands, which are prepared for the joint “on the bevel”.

Circular saw table assembly diagram.

In another variant, the working plane of the machine is made of two metal plates.

They are fastened to the frame with bolts, leaving a gap for the disk. Countersink the bolt holes from above to recess the heads. The bar for checking the size of the material to be sawn can be secured with clamps.

The stop for the workpiece to be sawn is made of a steel angle with 60 and 80 mm shelves. Its length should be longer than the table length.

The ends of the narrow shelf are cut off and the wide shelf is bent onto the tabletop. Holes are drilled in the lugs and threaded for the clamping screws. The guide bar from the angle is installed according to the template of the workpiece and fixed with bolts to the end face of the table top.

If you use the machine all the time, it is better to make the table from steel angles by welding.

The push button can be fixed to the frame of the table top or mounted on the wall of the workshop, using an extended cable to connect the machine. The trigger on the saw can be shunted or simply secured with a clamp. The machine disconnecting device must be safely accessible.

For sawing small parts, a mini-machine can be made without a worktable.

An old drill can be used as the electric drive for the sawing mechanism. A special shaft to be inserted into the drill chuck has to be ordered from the turner. The toothed disc and 2 bearings must be firmly mounted on it.

The frame for mounting the shaft is made of two parallel pieces of hardwood board with holes for pressing in the bearings. The work surface can be made of fiberglass or plexiglass. The drill and the frame of the device are fixed to a board 30-40 mm thick.

The tool, mounted upside down with the handle, must be securely clamped to the base in the cylindrical part of the housing near the chuck. The board serving as the base of the mini-circular saw is clamped to a regular table with screw clamps. The body of the upside-down drill and the base plate must be at the same level.

The guide bar for the mini circular saw can be made from a 50×50 mm bar.

At one end of it is rigidly fixed to the stop, cut out of a board. It must touch the end face of the working surface. In the other end of the guide bar a threaded rod is fastened.

On it is put the second stop element (bar) through a drilled hole in it. The stops are tightened by tightening the wing nut on the stud. The guide stop is set at the required distance from the disc and clamped like a clamp.

Homemade mini circular saw allows you to saw a fairly small thickness of parts.

At your discretion you can improve a home-made circular saw in a simple design by installing additional elements and the use of other materials. To improve the functionality of the machine it is possible to equip it with a carriage for material feeding, change of attachment of the working mechanism, installation of other additional devices for sawing control.

The handheld circular saw is a handy and functional tool for cutting blanks of wood. With its help it is possible to cut sheets of plywood, to saw boards, to cut a bar, skirting boards, platbands, etc.

д. But with a large amount of work, such as in the construction of the house, it is more convenient to use a stationary version of the device. How to make a circular saw with your own hands from hand tools?

Worktop for Hand Circular Saw

, Particularly if a complete repair or construction project is planned. Industrial products are not available to everyone. very expensive. But of course you can make a circular saw yourself using the materials that you have in your household.

Circular saw stationary at home is created with advancement in several likely directions:

  • adaptation of the existing hand tool, using the engine and circular saw for new abilities;
  • Improving industrial products to expand functionality;
  • assembly from individual parts, made, for the most part, by one’s own efforts.

Stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a slider and some others, the properties of which are not so important.

Making a workbench with integrated saw inexpensive and harsh

The table is for holding woodworking devices. It can be assembled quite from metal, which is better, especially for machines with a high power motor. Wood also makes excellent tables for the circular saw. However, keep in mind that the table top should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be rigid and stable, able to withstand a heavy load during work. The surface is made completely flat, over the rotating parts is necessary to install shields protection.

For a homemade circular saw is well suited engine from a washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed for short-term work only. They have very high RPM, low efficiency, fear of clogging. There is a variant to apply a three-phase electric motor, if a household is not 380 V, it is useful to buy capacitors, so it works from 220 V.

The most critical component is the shaft. Use a prefabricated, if available, or milled from round metal. The work is made on the lathe in one set-up, then the centering is inspected with the working bodies. Even a small beating is unacceptable, or else it will become stronger in the works, when the work is unacceptable. On the shaft the slots are prepared: for circular saw and for the pulleys. They also make slots for planing knives.

Properties of the circular saw, the motor and the greatest thickness of the lumber, which has the option to cut, mutually related. On a purchased circular disc are shown the highest speeds for which it is designed. Number of revolutions transmitted to the shaft by the motor is less. Engine power has an influence on very tolerable toothed saw’s cross-sectional area. Cross section is required than two, than triple the thickness of the material, otherwise it will be hard to saw. It is believed that for the sawing of materials 100 mm wide, the motor needs more than 1 kW of power.

Gear is made only by V-belt drive. if foreign objects get under the saw, jammed material, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in this variant are practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. Two figures should be taken into account: the engine rpm and the very permissible rpm of the circular saw. Calculate the required pulley cross-sections. A sheave with a big cross-section is mounted on the motor and a smaller one on the circular saw shaft to increase the rpm.

The speed of the circular saw shaft is as many times the speed of the motor as its pulley cross-section is smaller than the pulley cross-section on the motor.

For work with wood in huge volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, select a quarter. Requires a fairly powerful electric motor, a rigid table. We present a construction made of iron angle and steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, of course planing boards of width 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1,1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required to connect to 220 V.

machine frame; 4. panel; 3. starter; 4. height adjustment device; 5,7. desk of 2 halves; 6. base; 8. motor; 9. platform; 10. studs M10; 11. circular disk; 12. shaft; 13. stops of lifting mechanism; 14. driven pulley; 15. belt; 16. driven pulley; 17. switch.

Tools Required

In addition to materials, tools should be prepared.

  • a pencil and a marker;
  • Measurement tools, including a meter and a tape measure;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • hand router;
  • sanding machine;
  • sandpaper (should have a medium or fine grit);
  • planer and drill;
  • electric screwdriver.

Prepare everything in advance and keep it handy throughout the process.

Manufacturing process: step by step instructions

Circular saw table top in finished form

To make a quality construction it is necessary to observe some tips. The process consists of several steps, as shown in the table below.

Steps Description
1 The bar on all sides should be trimmed with a planer. Then the frame of the future table is assembled from it. Drill several 5 mm holes in each side of the countertop. In addition, one through is made for the legs of the product.
2 Several holes of the same diameter are made in each of the columns. In the legs make one through. Diameter remains the same, 5 mm.
3 Proceed to install the dowels in the countertop. And before doing so, they must be coated with carpentry glue. Place the legs and crossbars on top. If there are clamps with tie rods, the product should be secured with them. When the glue is completely dry, you need to fasten the reigns and legs, using special metal fasteners. In addition, they must be tightened with self-tapping screws. To add durability and strength to the construction, you can use the corners. They are an additional securing element that gives the product stability. For the short side 2 pieces are enough, and for the long side 3 pieces will do.
4 The next step involves securing the saw to the product from the inside. There are several methods to accomplish the task. M4 bolts or self-tapping screws are good for mounting. The first method is fast and reliable. The second method does not require any additional holes, which makes drilling unnecessary. It is necessary to make a cut in the bars, the width of which is equal to the dimensions of the saw’s platform. Next, self-tapping screws and bars on both sides fasten the equipment and the table top
5 After the saw has been installed, a larger bar is needed. It is fastened to the base of the construction with self-tapping screws. Screwing is carried out on the marks made when aligning the platform in a level position. The above manipulation will help, when removing the saw, to return it usually quickly without looking for markings
6 The saw blade is set in its proper place. The base is sawn through to obtain a longitudinal hole. Then the product should be turned over
7 Then begin making the parallel stop. Two strips are sawn from the plywood. Their length should coincide with the width of the table. On average, these dimensions are equal to 10 cm. The corners should be rounded
8 The resulting strips are sanded. They are to be fastened at an angle with self-tapping screws. A metal angle should be screwed inside
9 If you need to fix a stop on the basis and the structure will be used often, you should attach the guide so that it was perpendicular to the disc. Attach the roller to the bottom. This will allow it to move.

The design is complete and ready to use. When carrying out the described procedures it is important to remember about safety precautions. Applies to any manipulation of the circular saw.

Check regularly the position of the table and its firmness. The design should be stable, without loosening.

Example of a circular saw table that has been set up

Variant of the table for manual circular saw with lifting mechanism

First make sure that the saw is securely fastened, only then turn it on. Do not hold the material you are sawing with your hands. This prevents the wood from getting in your face when the knots start to bounce off. In addition it is recommended to use protective goggles when working.

For your safety always use protective goggles

The mentioned simple tips will help to avoid injuries at the workplace.

Quantity of finished material, sawing price

The yield of useful material from coniferous and hardwoods differs in percentages. The lumber obtained from coniferous trees is characterized by the following indicators:

  • provided that the operation is carried out by a professional and a circular sawmill is used, the percentage of finished wood will be the highest (80-85%);
  • trimmed material, which is given by the machines, is on average 55-70%;
  • Unedged boards leave up to 30% of waste when working with a chainsaw.

This figure does not include finished cuttings, which can represent as much as 30% of the finished product. However, such material goes on products that allow a certain defect.

Finished wood products after sawing

Deciduous roundwood yields 60% of finished unedged wood and about 40% of trimmed wood. This is due to the initial curvature of the round timber. It is possible to increase the quantity of the resulting product: this requires woodworking machines of different orientations. A certain kind of device can increase the amount of lumber by 10-20%. For one cube of sawn timber you need about 10 cubic meters of hardwood round timber. The price for installing additional equipment will pay off per cubic meter of boards.

Quick instructions for operation

Besides that it is necessary to make a sawmill, it is also necessary to work with it correctly, and for this it is important to know the short instruction.

It is best to install a vise on the base, with which you can clamp the log. Next, a marking should be made on the skids and sawmill. The machine starts up smoothly and slowly begins to approach the log. The chain saw bar in this case needs to be exactly in the center of the kerf marking.

It is very important not to make any jerking movements during the work, because it can lead to the bar stopping.