You get a snow shield with special mounting frame, specially designed for the John Deere X500, X 540 R.
Snow blade with 100cm width (39 “inch) perfect for extreme loads for high snow or wet, heavy snow.Large winter package to start immediately, with snow shield in 100cm width
This masive metal snow shield is perfect for machining large and heavy snowmasses!
Our snow plow is a complete winter package and Made in Europe.The snow shield has full lifetime German warranty.
The snow blade is installed under the lawn mower, so the force is evenly spread over the vehicle.The drawbar is simply attached to the frame with 2 bolts and clips.The snow shield has a professional folding device to protect the lawn mower and the shield against large stones, uneven paths or other obstacles.The plow has proved its worth in the USA and Canada and has been in use for many years!Thanks to the included mounting plate, the complete snow plow kit can be installed easily and quickly on your lawn mower.The mounting plate can be mounted on the lawn mower and the snow shield can be installed and removed without tools in seconds.You can also mount numerous other modules to the adapter, such as, for example, trailer coupling, load carrier, sweeper, etc. (see film)
Delivery:Snow shield in black professional design made of massive metal with dimensions 100cm wide (39″ inch)Special drawbar complete for extreme loads, ideal also with extremely high snow!
Special mounting plate for John Deere X500, X 540 R, suitable for this winter complete kit.
In the scope of supply is an extra thick rubber bar, perfect also with sensitive soils!The shield can also be used as a working sign for soil, gravel or gravel. Gardening or landscaping work!2x slide / spacer / grinder for the correct distance to the ground.
Technical specifications:Weight of shield: 22kgWidth: 1000mmHigh: 400mmMaterial plate: metal extra robustMaterial adapter: steel extra robust designStirring: Extra thick rubber strip, can be used on both sides, extra highSide adjustment: 5-way left / rightSlide: Extra sturdy mounted on both sides.
Considering a new S 100 Series Deere and 46″ SNOW Plow. Important Info you need to know.
S110 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,026 S120 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit. 4,226 S130 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,336 S140 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,336 S160 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,669 S170 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,726 S180 plus 46″ Front blade accessory kit = 4,629
When you consider the larger engine horsepower, the larger mower deck size and other benefits, the S180 is the best buy of the group, when equipping the machine to have snow plowing capabilities. Below is a break down of the part numbers and for accessories and add on equipment covered in this review.
- larger engine with more Horsepower
- wider mowing deck with as much as 12″ additional cutting width per pass
- Heavier machine which adds to its snow plowing capabilities
- Larger tires and wheels which make clearing snow easier
- A heavier duty engine designed to provide a longer service life.
(1). BG20943 Front Blade 46″ wide 450.47 (2). UC13263 Suit Case Weights @73.83 each or 147.66 (1). BG20627 Weight Bracket 67.41 (2). BUC10724 Front Wheel Weights @344.54 or 689.08 per pair (S110, S120, S130, S140, S160 machines) (2). BM17978 Wheel Weight Hardware @16.06 or 32.12 per pair (1). TY15959 Tire Chain Kit 139.90 Total options required to clear snow with this machine is 450,526.73 or with the optional Terra Grip rear traction system instead of the steel tire chains, the cost drops slightly to 450,516.64 plus taxes, etc. These amounts do not include any labor costs.
Total cost to add front snow blade to the S110 to S160 models ranges from a low of 450,516.64 to as much as 450,600, depending upon rear tire size and the traction aid selected, the tire chains or the Terra Grips
However, to equip the S180 you would need the following equipment on your lawn tractor. (1). BG20943 Front Blade 46″ wide 450.47 (2). UC13263 Suit Case Weights @73.83 each or 147.66 (1). BG20627 Weight Bracket 67.41 (2). BM17964 Front Cast Iron wheel weights @133.76 or 267.52 per pair for the 8″ front wheel weight kit (2). BM17978 Wheel Weight Hardware @16.06 or 32.12 per pair (1).TY25229 Tire Chain set for 20×10-8 or 22×9.5×12 tires 150.45 per set for a total cost to add the front blade and related equipment of 450.009 to 450,116 depending upon the selection of the rear tire chains or the rear Terra Grip traction system.
OR you can choose for the plastic front wheel weights and lower the cost even more (1). BG20943 Front Blade 46″ wide 450.47 (2). UC13263 Suit Case Weights @73.83 each or 147.66 (1). BG20627 Weight Bracket 67.41 (2). BM19123 Front Plastic wheel weights @90.96 or 181.92 per pair for the plastic 8″ front wheel weight kit (2). BM17978 Wheel Weight Hardware @16.06 or 32.12 per pair (1). TY25229 Tire Chain set for 20×10-8 or 22×9.5×12 tires 150.45 per set
For the S180, you can choose to use the rubber Terra Grips for the rear tire traction for those who want to protect their driveway surface. These are part number LP39857 and sell for 129.99 per pair.
Anyone planning on clearing snow with the S series machines, should very seriously think about which machine they purchase to mow and clear snow as the lowest initial cost machine has quite the cost to add the snow equipment to this machine. For the small difference in price, you can get a mower deck which is 12″ wider and a 2 cylinder engine with more power, smoother performance and more consistent power.
Honestly, if you are going to buy an entry level lawn tractor, do yourself a favor and spend a little more and get a lot better machine for your tasks. By time you spend the money to purchase the base machines and properly equip them to handle the task of clearing snow, the amount you are going to spend to equip the entry level machines is actually MORE than the cost to properly equip the higher end of the model lineup. Keep this in mind when shopping these l awn tractors and you intend to use these machines for snow removal.
“I may not be in control of who walks into my life, but I am in total control of the window through which, I am going to throw them back out.” S.B.
1025R with Mauser Cab (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / 3 pt 45 Gallon Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / Pallet Forks / CTA Snow pusher, Grapple and 66″ Snow Plow / 87″ Plow ExMark Lazer Z w/60″ Deck. Billy Goat Blower. Full Stable of Echo Products
SulleyBear
What prompted me to look at this is a new neighbor bought a S110 to mow his lawn on the home they purchased in our neighborhood in August. The lawn is just about an acre of grass and it is a very simple lawn to mow as its one large rectangle, and all of the trees and items to mow around are included in landscape bed areas around the house. Mowing the lawn is merely a matter of changing mowing directions, as the lawn is flat and the previous owner was very meticulous about caring for it. He had me mow it with my ZT for the last 3 years after he had trouble with his Toro Lawn tractor and tired of repairing it often.
The driveway is a straight asphalt driveway, 355′ in length and 12′ wide with a 26′ wide apron at the street intersect and a 2,200 sq ft concrete parking and turn around pad outside of the end loading garage. Previous to this new owner, I plowed this drive for the last several years, so I know this property very well.
As he would approach the snow with the blade down and angled either direction, the lawn tractor would often “push” almost violently, the opposite of the blade angle and he was unable to plow in any sort of straight line. The snow conditions are what I would call “typical wet” for early season snow. On a 1 to 10 for being moisture laden and the challenge to handle the snow due to the temps and snow water content, I would rate Saturday’s snowfall at a 5 on the 1 to 10 scale. Nothing extreme, but he was certainly having trouble plowing. These are typical snow conditions for snow when the ground isn’t yet frozen and still generating warmth. However, that has since changed and the temps haven’t been above 25 degrees since and aren’t forecast to for much of the next week or longer.
What I found was his machine really needs front end weight, to add some weight to help control the steering of the machine. But it also needs rear weight to aid in traction, so I decided to look up the S series lawn tractors online as they are not a machine I would normally be learning about.
Turns out Deere wants the S110 to S170 owners to add a cast iron wheel weight to each front wheel. The cost of these wheel weights SHOCKED me. At over 650 for the pair, this seems a bit hard to swallow on a 6500,500 lawn tractor. This caused me to dive into the pricing and options and accessory costs and I found what was described above in the opening of this thread.
Will the new neighbor spend the 700 for the weights and the hardware? He hadn’t spent the 225 for the rear weight bracket and the suitcase weights suggested / required by Deere for use of the machine as he is attempting to use it.
Let me just say that if he struggled Saturday to plow, and he struggled to the point of frustration, he is going to REALLY be frustrated when that 355′ drifts as it does, since its wide open from the street to the house. This drive is often drifted with drifts 2 to 3 times the snow depth, just because the drive is S.W. to N.E in orientation and prevailing winds plug that drive consistently. As the machine is equipped now, not being able to handle the 3″ of moderate snow really surprised me, but its also a lawn mower with a front end blade, which has to be kept in mind.
I let the neighbor know if he is unable to clear the driveway, I would be willing to help him out, he just needs to let me know. I did explain that he also needs to be aware that he is leaving himself no place to push future snowfall, in the manner he is plowing. He needs to expect his driveway is going to progressively narrow if he continues to plow as he is. I also suggested he start by marking the drives edges with the fiberglass markers as the snowfall in our forecast for this week is going to leave us with possibly a foot or more of snow by the end of the week. The more I pointed out things which he needs to incorporate into the “plowing plan”, the more he looked like he would rather be behind the counter of his party store.
He asked me my opinion of how the mower was “fighting him” and what I thought about the entire matter. I told him I was surprised how much the minimal snowfall shoved around that lawn tractor with just basic operation. I asked if he had plowed with the blade straighten or at least, with less angle to either direction to see how the lawn tractor handled that plowing attempt. He said he didn’t know he could angle the blade less or run it straight, apparently he thought it was angled either full left or full right. I know this won’t solve his problem and to he honest, I am skeptical the 700 in front wheel weights are going to solve the issue either. The lawn tractor is far too light to clear the snow of any depth and expect it to do so for any distance.
He is simply asking a lot of the machine and its the classic case of someone buying something at Lowe’s without the benefit of any knowledgeable sales assistance. He has a drive which needs more equipment to clear it, than what he owns. I will make it a point to add the small clevis and small strap to my chain boxes so when I need to pull him out of the snow drifts later this week, I will be able to drag him back to his garage without having to make a trip back home to get pins small enough to hook into the tow point on the back of his mower.
If we have light snowfall amounts of a few inches, the S110 should be able to move the snow. But as those who have snow plowing experience know, its all about planning and making sure to provide for future snow fall amounts. That’s something which usually doesn’t come into the plan when you are struggling just to plow straight, let alone keep the machine moving forward under control.
He asked my advice as to what he should do. I suggested he should plan on paying to have the driveway cleared with equipment which is up to the task. I showed him where the trucks which had plowed his drive had damaged the center crown of the pavement before I took over the plowing and began using the rubber plow edge. I showed him where the plow edge of the steel plows had scraped away the crown of asphalt, in some areas, removing nearly 1.5″ of asphalt depth. This causes the center to crumble and the failure just spreads.
Library
I refurbish a handful of tractors and snow blowers as a hobby and labor of love. This site reflects sample restoration projects I’ve selected, some of which I hope to complete in the future, and the ethical approach I take in selling selected finished machines from my collection. I perform service and repairs only on power equipment I’ve sold, and occasionally to help someone out.
This Library contains articles that inform the homeowner on how to better shop for, care for, and store his/her machine.
Article 8: Using a Snow Blade on a Tractor or Rider
To plow snow, you should generally have a front engine tractor with at least 20 HP (V-Twin preferred), a strong transmission (preferably hydrostatic automatic), and a very strong chassis with front mount capability to hold the plow. This means you need either (1) a large MTD tractor, meaning MTD’s premium chassis found on Toro LX, Cub Cadet LTX, and selected Troy-Bilt, White Outdoor, Yard Man, and MTD Gold models, or (2) a big Husqvarna, meaning AYP’s premium chassis found on Craftsman Yard Tractors and Lawn Tractors through about 2006, Poulan Pro, McCulloch, and others.
Unlike other Rear Engine Rider (RER) mowers, there is a 36” plow available for certain Snapper models. However, Snapper rear engine models are no more substantial than others, like those from Honda, John Deere, and Simplicity. In fact, the latter machines generally weigh more, and weight is a good indicator of strength and capability. My concern is that this setup will be rather ineffective most of the time. In fact, you will have little success with a plow on any RER that I can think of, and that includes Simplicity RERs with 13.5 HP), Honda Harmony RERs with 11 HP, and John Deere RX and SX series RERs with 9 or 12.5 HP. RERs are inherently designed for compactness, convenience, efficiency, and often for precision cutting (e.g., on golf course greens; hence such features as ‘Transport Mode’). They rarely weigh more than 400 lbs and are generally about 350 lbs compared to a large, quality front-engine mower that weighs in the vicinity of 500 to 550 lbs with bigger tires and pushing power.
Also, in order to plow, you will need rear wheel weights and/or a rear weight carrier and rear wheel chains to plow using a 42″ to 48” blade. However, you will only succeed in snow up to about 1/2 foot in depth on a level surface with room to push the snow to the sides of the surface. To top things off, the manual controls for a plow are in themselves fairly difficult to use and require a lot of LEFT arm strength for raising and lowering, moving the plow right and left, and locking it in place. Now you need to do this while also operating the tractor. So you have to go forward and back, accelerate, and steer all at the same time as you control the plow, in order to move the snow. If you are in a confined area (e.g., any kind of obstructions, walls, slopes, etc. on either side of the driveway or area to be plowed), all of this becomes even more challenging and difficult. If you have any kind of modest slope, e.g., on a driveway, you may not even be able to navigate in even the lightest snow.
From experience, I can tell you that you will have little success doing any kind of driveway length-wise, since a large lawn/yard tractor with plow cannot handle that kind of capacity. So you have to work from the center out to each side on a driveway that is designed for 1 to 1-1/2 car widths. Heavy snow is particularly difficult and has to be done periodically (at about 4″) during a storm or the plow will simply slide. My driveway is very close to level throughout and even has space to push the snow. After only two snow falls, I found that it was so much work and required so much time, it was not worth it. I tried to plow about 7″ of heavy snow and didn’t even get the machine out of the garage! Maneuvering was frustrating and really put a heavy load on the transmission, which could result in premature failure. All in all, I sold my plow setup and switched to a snow blower, which made life much easier.
I do not recommend using a plow (or a snow blower for that matter) on any typical homeowner tractor. The above reasons are why you see so many plow blades and snow blower attachments for sale on craigslist. You’re much better off putting the money towards a stand-alone snow blower, which will cut your time in 1/2 even if you can plow.
All article content and images copyright Jay’s Power Equipment. All rights reserved.
Introduction: Snow Plow Tilt Adjuster (John Deere 325)
I got a used snow blade for my John Deere 325 Lawn Tractor. It didn’t have a means of adjusting the tilt of the blade without getting off the machine. My Craftsman lawn tractor had a metal rod that you could push the blade with to tilt it and a bicycle brake like handle for releasing the locking pin. I duplicated that setup for my Deere and I am very happy with it.
Step 1:
I put a 3/8″ bolt about 2″ long through an extra hole in the plow. I added a pair of washers and lock nut so it would be fixed to the blade. The end of the EMT bolts on loosely here with another lock-nut.
It is easy to bend the emt around a pair of closely spaced trees or branches. A gentle curve keeps it from flattening out. I pounded the end of the EMT flat and drilled a 3/8″ hole to form the pivot for the end of the tilt rod. Then I bolted it to the plow. The nut should allow free movement of the tilt rod (EMT).
Step 3: Make a Mount for the Tilt Rod.
I drilled one 3/8″ hole through a piece of cardboard. Then I used a sharpie marker to mark the locations of the other holes that already existed on the side of the tractor frame. I drilled the other holes in the cardboard template to make sure that my template fit properly. I transferred this to 1/4″ steel plate. I bent a piece of 1/4″ strap iron and welded it to the mounting plate. I drilled a 1/2″ hole for the large eye bolt. The lengths of the parts should be estimated and mocked up for your specific tractor. I painted the bracket and bolted it to the side of the tractor.
I used 2″ x 2″ x 1/4″ angle iron to make the bracket that holds the cable sheathing. It is very simple. FIrst, I cut a piece about 2″ long. Then I cut a 2nd piece about 3/4″ long. I measured my cable sheath as having a 0.205″ diameter, with a 0.159″ diameter slug on the end of the cable. I drilled a 0.161″ hole through the 3/4″ piece. Then I drilled half way through with a 0.210″ diameter bit. This made a that the cable and then end slug could pass through, but that would prevent the cable sheath from passing through. The 3/4″ was welded to the side of the 2″ piece so that the sheath would be held directly over the part of the lever we wanted to pull up with the cable.
Step 5: Make a Piece to Hold the End of the Cable and Slug to Pull Up the Pin Release Lever.
I used a piece of piece of 1/4″ plate 3/4″ x 2″. I drilled a hole 0.161″ half way through the edge of the 1/4″ steel plate. I used a bandsaw to cut slot in the side of the plate to lay the cable into. I drilled an tapped two hole in the plate and added a pair of matching hole on the locking pin arm. After laying the cable in, I pulled on the cable to pull the slug into the hole. Then I bolted the cable retainer to the lift arm. I reinstalled the lift arm, pin, and cable sheath bracket on the plow.
I chose to use a spring clamp as a handle and cable pulling mechanism. First use a Dremel tool to cut the spring in the clamp. We don’t need the extra resistance. Then cut another piece of 2″ angle 3/4″ long to form a big L bracket. Bend one of the jaws down 90 degrees. Cut a slot in the other jaw to accept the end of the cable. Bend the tip of this jaw up at least 45 degree to keep the cable from slipping out of the slot. Drill and tap a pair of holes to screw the clamp to the L bracket. I used #10 screws. Then drill and tap another pair of hole that will be used to mount the spring clamp assembly to the tilt rod we made in the first step. Use a 1/2″ washer for the sheath retaining bracket. Prepare it by drilling a 0.210″ diameter hole HALF WAY THROUGH THE WASHER. Then use a saw to cut a slot to allow the cable to slip in from the side. Bend washer in a vice so the sheath bracket is at 90 degrees from the 1/4″ mounting bolts. Bolt the assembly to the tilt rod.
Step 7: Cover the Brake Line to Keep Water Out.
I found some cool rubber belting to keep water off the cable. Otherwise it will run down into the sheathing and freeze.
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