All about the replacement of the bearing of the compressor of the air conditioning coupling in one article
The air conditioning compressor bearing provides the rotation of the coupling shaft and the entire air conditioner mechanism. Twisting is transmitted from the pulley of the crankshaft using belt transmission. Thanks to the bearing of it, the coupling can rotate with minimal friction.
The serviceability of the part is directly related to the functioning, as a compressor and so air conditioning. In the article we will analyze the signs and reasons for the failure, methods of repairing and replacing this ball bearing.
Where to be the bearing and the installation of the node
The compressor of the carcontacle is in a hinged position on the engine (5). An electromagnetic coupling with a bearing inside is placed on the compressor.
The part itself is placed in the pulley (1), which is an external clip in a fixed position. Rotation is carried out by rolling the inside of the separator.
Instructions for the correct replacement of the air conditioning compressor and servicing air conditioning system (or climate control) by car
Remove one compressor and put it just differently. this is not enough. you need to evaluate the condition of the entire climate control (air conditioning) system since often when changing the old compressor to a new, new compressor also fails. My trips to one hundred were also unsuccessful, since it turned out that in our city there are no specialists who could evaluate the state of the system and endure the verdict, whether it is possible to put a new compressor and whether it will work properly in the old system.
Therefore, I decided to do everything again with my own hands. He climbed on the Internet and began to monitor information about how and who changes the compressor and what other additional procedures began to read manuals and service original instructions for servicing the air conditioning system in a car He began to get acquainted with people who faced a similar problem, some even consulted in telephone mode. for which they thank them all.
In short, going up to the replacement of the compressor seriously. having shoveled a huge amount of information and interrupting with different people. air conditioners and not only throughout the globe.
Some said that when replacing the compressor, it is necessary to change the condenser, the TRV valve and the drainage, and rinse the tubes Others said that you can wash all this, others simply took the compressor and did not wash anything and t and t.D.
After analyzing the information received from all sources, he came to the conclusion and drew up his instructions for replacing the air conditioner, which I want to fix in the flight journal. So…
Instructions for the correct replacement of the air conditioning compressor and maintaining air conditioning system (or climate control system) by car.
When replacing the old air conditioning compressor with a new one, it is necessary first of all to make a “diagnosis” of the system. Namely:
-Remove the old compressor (plug the tubes with a cloth and plunge with tape so that dust does not fly).-Drain the butter from the return (see the condition of the oil, is it light, whether it is particles of the chips).sit the oil from the high-pressure contour (view the condition)
/если масло чистое и прозрачное (особенно с контура высокого давления — то есть надежда, что компрессор в относительно нормальном состоянии и система (шланги, конденсор и т.д.) не забиты стружкой и не требуют замены/
Disassemble the compressor and evaluate its condition.
/в моем случае в снятом старом компрессоре практически не было масла (масло было чуть на донышке), но при этом масло в обеих контурах было прозрачное. Но был отломан кусок одного клапана, который сделал задиры на цилиндрах, но при этом масло было светлое, В ОБРАТКЕ СТРУЖКИ НЕ БЫЛО, В КАМЕРЕ ВЫСОКОГО ДАВЛЕНИЯ БЫЛО ОБНАРУЖЕНО МИНИМАЛЬНОЕ КОЛИЧЕСТВО СТРУЖКИ www.drive2.ru/l/562514273012548381/
Remove and disassemble the filter. drainage (cut a corner grinder).
Having dismantled the Mercedes filter, I came to the conclusion that its design with a small metal mesh and a pressed silicogen field, according to the idea, was to delay all the chips from the compressor and theoretically chip from the compressor should not go further through the system. This is very important, since if the design of the drainer does not involve a small mesh for cleaning, then the chips from the compressor go through the condexor and the drainage directly to the TRV valve (which has a “needle”). which is clogged with chips (since the valve itself is the smallest The hole through which the refrigerant circulates) the small fraction of the chips falls back into the compressor. disabled it).
/в моем случае на металлической сетке в осушителе я нашел кусочки клапана с компрессора, проверив трубки после осушителя (намотал на спичку вату и провел ими по краю внутренней части шлангов) — стружки не было обнаружено, но был обнаружен легкий налет на шлангах, который при раздавливании пальцами НЕ СОЗДАВАЛ АБРАЗИВ/
And only after conducting the above operations, having made the necessary conclusions about the state of the system (and, if necessary, replacing the nodes with new ones), it is possible to replace the old compressor with a new.
(Otherwise, if in your car there is another design of the filter-dryer/ in many new/ grid in the drainages/ or your system is greatly clogged (oil in the compressor is black, thick, there is a thick plaque on the tubes)-which means chips from the compressor I went throughout the system, in order not to disable a new compressor. it is necessary to replace the condenser, the drainage (in some models, the drainage is installed directly in the condenser), flushing or replacing the valve of the TRV, replacing the evaporator and mandatory flushing of all hoses (flushing should be carried out by the nephrass as a prisoner. since it evaporates the fastest, does not harm rubber products and does not leave a film on the surface).
P.S. Flushing the capacitor (if you do not provide a filtering design) will not give the result, since the chips can “fly” into the remote parts of the radiator and it may not be released when washing, and then, when using the air conditioner, the chips will “fly out” and go through the system.
/в моем случае систему я не промывал/
Installing a new (or used) air conditioner compressor on a car (pay attention).
a) When installing a new compressor:. You need to verify the presence of traffic jams, as well as the presence of a well.nonsense volume of oil. If the oil does not leak during transportation, you can put the compressor on the car and season the system with a refrigerant (without adding oil, since the necessary colline oil for your system is already flooded in the compressor from the plant).
SK magic | NEW Air Conditioner Rental Plans
Small air conditioning repair (disassembling and cleaning the compressor coupling)
As according to the law of meanness. last week there was hot summer weather, the mood is super. and here on From the deflectors there is hot air 🙂 Visual inspection showed one thing. the coupling does not turn on, the infection This day I will remember, the hot environment 4.06, and then another Thursday and Friday, all these days I traveled like in a greenhouse (how people drive cars without a kondei in such weather?), all wet, the head does not think, in general darkness.
I lived somehow until Saturday, climbed under the car at last.Searching forum of the LR club, as well as similar cases on other cars, I decided not to panic yet, but to disassemble-examine-seeing out my coupling.Go!
First you need to raise the car and remove the front right wheel, remove the shield in the cover behind it and now you can see a belt of entered equipment.
A small video at the top left is the belt stretch to remove the belt to take this video click up, for this we take the key to 15 and take the video, remove the belt with the second hand, release the video. Everything, the belt can be removed or “display” places
Now we take the head for 8 and a slotted screwdriver, with a screwdriver, hold the lid of the coupling from turning, unscrew the holding bolt. Remove.(Attention behind the lid will definitely be one small puck and one gasket, do not lose them)
We see a slightly rusty coupling 🙂 and the locking ring on it (bad photos, sorry;))
To remove stop rings, it is better to buy a special tool. it is called that. the output rings puller
We take a hammer, turn the coupling with one hand and pull on ourselves, with the other hand (in which a hammer) lightly, we tap it through the Tots remove it remove it
And we see an electromagnet (specifically at this moment I forgot to photograph. the photo is already when assembling. when I cleaned it :))
It is held by another locking ring. remove the ring. remove the chip, take out the magnet.
Bend the antennae with a slope, holding the chip and remove the chip
I’m not sure that the photo is clearly visible, but the contacts are all green, it is necessary to remove the oxide I clean up the external ones, I clarify the internal ones with a special spray can for cleaning contacts.
The assembly in the reverse sequence, rust on parts of the coupling we remove it with sandpaper 🙂
Diagnosis of the air conditioning compressor coupling
Checking the operability of the air conditioning compressor coupling is quite simple. There are several diagnostic methods in the set of experienced motorists.
The first way. You need to start the engine and turn on the air conditioner. Check if the sensor is working on the panel. Check if there is a click when turned on at the moment when the coupling is connected to the compressor. Check with the help of a second person. whether this connection occurs (when turned on, the disk is pressed to the pulley).
The second method. Neither the presence of a refrigerant in the system, nor even starting the engine is required here. When the engine is turned off, you need to turn off the power plug plug and connect the plus battery terminal with the wire with the connector on the compressor. At this moment, a click should be heard, and the compressor coupling should start moving.
It is worth remembering: on some modern cars, the connection does not occur outside, but inside the coupling, that is, the plate will rotate, even if you use any of these methods.
If the procedures performed clearly indicate that the coupling is inoperative, most likely it will have to be dismantled in order to establish the exact cause of its breakdown.
Repair of the air conditioning compressor coupling
Repair of this node is carried out if there are:
If all this is available, you can get down to business. So:
- If everything indicates a breakdown of the bearing, you will definitely have to dismantle the coupling. It is important to determine which bearing is required.
- If the clamping disk and the pulley does not interact, the problem can lie deeper. in the malfunctions of the compressor itself. In this case, it is recommended to carry out in.depth diagnostics of the node.
- If the wrong gap is discovered, in some cases it can be adjusted. With a large gap between the disk and the pulley, the magnetic field is too weak for their attraction. With a small gap, their constant friction occurs, which leads to abrasion and wear of both elements. The gap should be spelled out in the technical documentation and measured by a special measuring device.
- If food is not supplied to the coupling, the case may lie in the wiring. You need to replace the ragged wires.
- If the relay has become unusable (you can check it out, you need to close its contacts with each other and turn on the system, the click speaks of its malfunction), it must be dismantled and replaced.
Air conditioner compressor overdoing 10s20c. Part 1. Disassembly.
So, let’s start) We need an oil, which will need only ml 10 to overdo the compressor. There was no desire to buy a liter for this for 2500, so I borrowed a bit for a hundred (the guys talked over me, they said that they didn’t even take them to sort them out, but they gave them oil).
First of all, we unscrew the central bolt at 10 in the pulley. Despite the presence of a threaded sealant, it is easily unscrewed, in the usual direction (against the sentry).
With the next step, remove the locking ring that holds the pulley and the pulley itself. Here you may need a puller, which I previously bought for 700 (with three paws), but I did not need it, everything was removed with one hand. Ah, well, we take off neatly, remember that there is the case. lumin)
Here we are met by a magnet. And another stop ring.
Unscrew the mass from the case and the magnet in our hands.
As a result, a naked compressor remained in front of us. By the way, the compressor itself consists of 4 blocks, which, if you look closely, do not even fit each other at all))) That. The 10s20C compressor model was put on many cars, not only Kia. And in each case, its case (components) depends simply on the specific car, the location of the mount and tubes. Inside, it is the same for everyone. There are even some parts of the case are interchangeable at different cars. But oh well go on.Unscrew the bolts tightening the entire compressor into a single whole.
And remove the front cover (in front for simplicity, we denote the side where the coupling is attached).
Well, quietly remove all the plates of the valve group.
At the back, we also disassemble everything, remove the lid and a similar valve group.
As can be seen from the photo, everything is in corrosion. When twisting by the hand of the shaft, the pistons run well, but the bearings are noticeably noisy, since apparently moisture has entered there I appeal to everyone who is engaged in spare parts! Do not inflate! Do it for the client, not for sale! Well, stock up on normal plugs, close the holes so that nothing gets there, since it seems that the excellent compressor was killed by the hands of the seller himself!I did not clean anything, since I had already been a disassembled second compressor, from which I unwinded the clutch, I decided to collect this team from it and this team, taking only the front cover and the coupling from the contract.The process of analysis of the second compressor without Комментарии и мнения владельцев. The only thing in it I made out everything in order to clean and verify the suitability of further use.By the way, his condition is excellent, despite the mileage of a car 200,000, it is another million years to work, there is no development at all.
As a result, I have formed a kit from a heap of iron, which was to be assembled correctly and accurately to succeed!To be continued…
I went through the clutch of the air conditioning compressor (without a shooter), and a small then.
Hi all!In general, while the system was without a freon, I decided to replace the bearing of the compressor coupling, which began to die a couple of years ago, but there was no noise during work, I did not touch it.
In general, for starters, I decided to train on my old, jamming compressor.
He clamped him in a vice and without problems (compressor in the wedge) unscrewed the nut (turnkey for 14 mm), the thread here is ordinary.
Next, it was necessary to somehow remove the upper clamping plate.
The fact is that as I read, this is a special puller for this, but I didn’t have it.The second option is to tighten three bolts to the stop and tighten them to pull the plate, but after watching how many threads are there, I decided not to do so.
But you can’t remove this plate differently, “you will not remove anything with any three.haired puller, and if you immediately try to pull off the entire pulley, then ditch the compressor.
I wrapped a nut to the compressor shaft so as not to spoil the thread.
Well, then, holding the nut on the central bolt and twisting it, the plate was removed.
Under it there are small adjusting washers, do not lose them!
In principle, nothing was buzzing on this compressor, by the way the bearing is still native and it turned rather tight.
I put the oil seal in place, did not add grease and decided to rearrange this pulley, and not put a new bearing.
Remove the clinic belt.Unscrew the roller tension mechanism.
This is access to the lower bolt of the generator, without unscrewing the video (well, it is not very convenient to unscrew it there).
Next, remove the gene and before us the compressor itself.
The MAHLE Air Conditioning Compressor Explained
Next, unscrew the tubes (I just squeezed first) and unscrew the compressor itself.In the end, then we neatly extract it.
Next, we examine in what condition the oil is in the compressor, if it is not bright green in color, then drain it (there is a bolt on the case), wash it with a solvent and blow out.I had it clean, I decided not to touch it.
We also do not lose sealing rings, I put them back, but it is better to replace them with new ones and exactly the same and precisely for air conditioning systems, ordinary blacks will not work!
Then I made out this compressor, though the shape of the cover was a little different.And taking off the pulley, I saw this.
It seems that it’s okay, but on my native compressor this was not, but he got not a few.
over, my magnet was higher than this burnt.
Well, then the assembly.During the assembly, it turned out that the compressors have different clamping plates and pulleys.As a result, he put it on his compressor from the old email.magnet, pulley and plate, t.e.everyone is here.
As a result, I checked so that everything would rotate and work magnet, everything was normal.
So far, part of the hitch has been removed at the same time and other issues to deal with.
Everyone knows how uncomfortable it is to change the stretch video.
Well, since such a booze went, I began to disassemble everything and everything, but I changed my mind in time and collected part back.
But the vkg and the vacuum pump still removed the pipe.
I took it off to put it instead.the phone along with the oil separator, but for reasonable money I did not find one, so cleaning everything, I put it back.
I removed the vacuum pump to check how the sealing ring was there, as a result I replaced the ring and put everything in place.By the way, there was a whole ring.
Well, not without the help of good people, the tube was still found, but about this next time.
DIY compressor repair for compressor.
Good day! Finally I got to the keyboard to already make a photo report on how I saved at least 16 tyr. I ask right away do not judge strictly. How it turns out.So. It all started when I returned from a trip to Vladimir-Suzdal in the summer. I rode with Condeus. At night. No signs of trouble. Deps was slowing down on the highway near Kasimov to check the docks. When talking with them, I smelled. But did not attach meaning. Still, the track, cars drive, maybe from one of the passing. I got to the house safely about two in the morning. I went to work in the morning, I didn’t turn it on. it was cool. But at work, having a car and switching blowing to the glass, he was unpleasantly surprised by the operation of the engine. He worked normally, then slowed down as if someone was strangling him. And so until I drowned him. Having examined the engineering space for the presence of visible defects, I found nothing. I decided to start and see when working. And voila. After the launch, when the clutch on the compressor turned on, the motor is almost stalled. Then, apparently due to overload (I don’t know what brains she understood this), the coupling turned off and the motor worked normally. After a couple of seconds, approximately the clutch turned on again and everything was repeated. Having drowned the engine and tried to turn the driven coupling disk with my hands, I realized that the compressor was jammed.Then there were thoughts how to remove the compressor, disassemble, find spare parts or, possibly, a new compressor. Or give it to repairs. And how much it will be repaired. And t.to. I drive every day, it was necessary to have the car on the move to stay. T.to. There is one belt for everything (generator, pumping pump, gur and air conditioning), it was difficult. A simple decision was made. Choose a belt in length suitable for installation bypassing compressor.
Put the tags on the pulleys of the tanker and the pump pump. I measured straight a roulette on the belt between the marks with the compressor and also bypassing it.
I calculated the difference. Knowing that I had a 6RK1845 belt, I subtracted the difference, and got 1535. I called a friend in auto parts asked to pick up something. He found from some Nissan 6RK1540 and brought to the trail. Day for 560 rub. I took off my belt and put this bypassing compressor. I circled in red in the figure.
Then the freon was leaked and the compressor was removed.Let’s move on to repair, otherwise I seemed to be carried away with the entry.So.
Gently, so as not to lose adjusting goals inside (arrow).
And carefully remove the back cover with a valve block in it. For earlier substitute oil collection. Poles from the corps.
Next, carefully pull out the middle part along with the shaft and pistons from the front cover.
By the way, after parsing I found in the front cover a drain plug for oil (arrow).
As a result, I found inside the compressor, in oil, some sticky substance similar to cottage cheese. It can be seen in the photo of the back cover. It can be seen when heated this stickiness as glue glued all the pistons to the cylinder block. I had to rinse everything and lubricate with compressor oil during assembly. over, this glue was not washed with gasoline, and the jade got even worse. Even what else was moving as if frozen as soon as he plunged into Nefras. But two bottles of carburetor did their job. I dismantled everything. Washed. Lubricated. Collected. The compressor is like new. Hand over the shaft. Put in place. Twisted Freon. Everything is working. And then let’s see.Yes. I completely forgot. When assembling, good, you need to change everything and change the oil seal. But I didn’t have them t.to. I didn’t think that I would get so easy. Look like that’s it. Thank you for your attention. There will be questions. How I can. I will help.I hope someone will be useful.
DIY compressor repair
Details: Repair of a compressor with your own hands Feni from a real master for Olenord.com.
The company “Accurate Work” offers to carry out repairs of the Scania compressor on favorable terms. We have masters specializing in the repair of air compressors of freight cars. Always in stock parts and reptiles, original details and nodes. We provide a guarantee not only for spare parts, but also for the work performed.
For customers of the company “exact work” the following services:
- Dismantling/installation of SCANIA truck compressors.
- Checking the condition of compressor parts, diagnostics of devices.
- Replacing the piston group.
- Defective of parts.
- Sandblasting, cleaning, painting.
- Complex repair of the compressor of the Skania truck.
- Checking the compliance of the compressor work by factory settings at a specialized stand.
After the diagnosis, our masters will provide an estimate for the repair of the compressor of the SCANIA pneumatic system and perform the necessary work in accordance with the volume agreed with the customer. There are original and non.original parts for air compressors in stock.
Leave a request for the repair of a cargo compressor, and we will contact you!
Turning to us, you get the following advantages:
- Squeezing terms of work. We value your time, and therefore we carry out repair work in the shortest possible time.
- Dealer equipment. For the diagnosis and repair of air compressors, Scania, we use professional equipment.
- Low prices. We have favorable for repairing Scania compressor. we offer to get acquainted with our price right now.
Our managers are ready to answer any of your questions. You can find out more about our services and sign up for repairs by calling. (812) 986-66-41. Call. we will complete the service and repair work for breakdowns of any complexity!
A brief description of the air compressor operation of the compressor wheel is given from the gear of the engine gas distribution mechanism. The compressor cylinder block has an air cooling with external ribs, the cylinder head is cooled by antifreeze, the cylinder head shirt is combined with the engine cooling system. The compressor lubricant is made from the engine lubrication system. Lubrication of the crankshaft of the compressor is forced, under pressure. The remaining surfaces of friction and bearings are lubricated with spraying.
A car compressor with a shutdown system has two modes: a working cycle and idling mode
Compressor working cycle
When the piston moves down the petal check valve 2 opens under the influence of the resulting vacuum. On the open intake channel, air enters the cylinder.
When the piston moves up the inlet valve 2, under the action of pressure in the cylinder, closes. The air goes through the channel 3, through the exhaust valve 4 and enters consumers.
Complete operation of the compressor
When the pressure in the system reaches the norm, the compressor is disconnected by supplying air to the piston 5 (making the compressor more economical energy conservation system ESS). The piston 5 moves forward and opens the inlet valve. The space above the compressor piston and the receiving camera 6 above the compressor cylinder are salted. Channel 3 overlaps at the same time and air cannot enter the system.
When the piston moves up, the air located in the cylinder and in the reception chamber is compressed. Compressed air exerts pressure on the bottom of the piston when it moves down. Thus, there is a recovery of energy spent on air compression.
Dismantling of the air compressor
- Unscrew the bolts of fastening the cylinder head (6 pcs. along the edges)
- Remove the compressor head
- Remove the intake damper 1, levers 2
- Remove the gasket 10
- Remove the compressor shutdown tube connector at one end and remove the locking ring on the other (for old compressors). For new ones you need to unscrew the nut.
- Remove pins 4 of plunger 3
- Remove plunkers 3 and springs 5.
Sink and defect of compressor parts
- Carefully clean the traces of the pile
- Make sure the cylinder heads are clean
- Make sure the lack of production in the location at the movement of the pin 6
Air compressor assembly
- Insert springs 5 and plunkers 3
- Insert the pins 4 into plunels
- Install new gasket 10
- Install pins 6, levers 2 and intake flashes 1
- Using a large screwdriver, push the pistons 3 and check the smooth movement of the intake dams
- Install the cylinder head 7 with valves housing 9
Starting the compressor is accompanied by fuse blocking or the thermal protection automation
This malfunction happens if the installed fuse by rated power is below the recommended or the supply network is overloaded. In the first case, we check the compliance of the permissible currents, in the second. turn off the part of the consumers from the electric line.
A more serious cause of the malfunction is incorrect operation of the voltage relay or abbreviation of the bypass valve. We bypass the relay contacts according to the circuit, if the engine has earned, it means a faulty executive device. In this case, it is more advisable to seek technical support to the official service center or replace the relay yourself.
The decline in the pressure of compressed air indicates that somewhere in the system there is a leak. Risk zones are: high.pressure airborne line, the control valve of the piston head or the receiver of the receiver. Check the entire pipeline using soap solution for air leaks. Detected defects we wrap it with a sealing tape.
The final crane can skip if it is not loosely closed or faulty. If it is closed all the way, and the soap solution in the spout bubbles, then we change this part. When wearing a new one, do not forget to smack a fum tone on the thread.
In case of tightness of the air highway and the final crane, we conclude about the incorrect operation of the control valve of the compressor. To carry out further work, we must pull all the compressed air from the receiver! Next, we continue to repair the compressor with our own hands, analyzing the cylinder head.
If there are pollution or mechanical damage to the bypass valve, we clean and try to correct defects. If the malfunction is not eliminated, then we replace the control valve.
This defect is observed with too low the voltage of the power supply, poor air flow or an increased air temperature in the room. We measure the voltage in the network using a multimeter, it should be at least the lower boundary of the range recommended by the manufacturer.
Poor air flow into the discharge system is due to clogging of the input filter. The filter should be replaced or washed in accordance with the installation management manual. The piston engine has air cooling and when it is in a poorly ventilated room, it often overheats. The problem is solved by moving the compressor installation to the room with good ventilation.
This situation arises under the following conditions:
With moisture in the output stream of compressed air, they fight the following methods:
- The excess fluid is regularly drained from the cylinder
- Clean or replace the filter element
- Transfer compressor installation to a room with more dry air or installed additional moisture detachment filters
In general, high vibration is characteristic of piston engines. But, if earlier, a relatively quiet compressor installation begins to rumble, there is a high probability that the engine mounting screws weakened or the material of vibration ground. This malfunction is eliminated by stretching all fasteners in a circle and replacing polymer vibro insulators.
Interruptions in the operation of the engine can be caused by the incorrect operation of the pressure control relay or too intense selection of compressed air.
Excessive gas consumption occurs due to the inconsistency of the compressor performance with the power consumption. Therefore, before buying a new pneumatic tool, carefully study its characteristics and air consumption per unit of time.
Consumers should not take more than 70% of the compressor power. If the capacity of the supercharger with a margin overlaps the requests of pneumatic tools, then the pressure relay is default. We either repair it or change it to a new.
This malfunction occurs as a result of gas leakage in a high.pressure system or with a clogged air intake filter. You can nullify the air of air with a length of all butt joints and wrapping with a sealing tape.
Sometimes it happens that when draining condensate from the receiver, they forget to completely close the exhaust valve, which also leads to a gas leak. This problem is simply solved. tightly closing the valve. With a clogged anti.drum filter, clean it, or even better change it to a new.
Most of the above faults can be avoided by properly conducting the first start and run.in mechanisms, as well as performing regular regulatory work.
In order for the device to work properly for a long time, the recommended maintenance at the initial stages of operation should begin. Specialists are recommended the following actions from the moment of acquisition:
Timely compliance with these simple requirements will contain the mechanism in good condition. Such a time.consuming procedure as with your own hands will be required extremely rarely. Competent ground will avoid problems with the electrical part of the device. Regular replacement of oil and cleaning filters will warn the premature wear of the rubbing parts.
The article shows the SCANIA repair manual (Scania), which will help to understand all the intricacies of this process.
The manufacturer’s guarantee for Skania trucks is one year. The first year of operation, these trucks do not deliver absolutely no trouble to the owners, although by this time the car mileage was already about 150 thousand km. Frivolous technical problems arise somewhere on the second or third year of operation. Of course, the operating conditions of operation affect the period of good work.
As many years of operation showed, there are almost no claims on bridges, checkpoints and engine of the SCANIA R124 G truck. The car is durable and very reliable. But, as any high.tech and complex technique requires timely care, high.quality spare parts, maintenance and repair. We offer a certain guide for the repair of Scania, which will help to understand in more detail a number of nuances.
As a rule, with a mileage of 400 thousand km, the shaft of the steering column of the old.style “dies”. And when the car passes 500 thousand km, you will need to replace the clutch. Also begin to wedge calipers. The low quality of diesel fuel causes the failure of the fuel pump pump. At 600 thousand. km you need to change the front bearings of the wheel hubs. But the rear bearings are just enough to check and lay the lubricant if necessary. With further operation, you will have to change the details and carry out the full repair of Scania, since many units will simply naturally be worn out. I advise you to see spare parts in this online store. There are qualified specialists and affordable prices.
Repair of the electromagnetic coupling compressor of the air conditioner Nissan Serena
I decided not to obey the advisers and engage in an independent repair of the coupling before buying a contract compressor for 5K.Let’s start.
I will not describe the torment and removal of the compressor. everything is intuitively clear. If anyone needs information, we have 700 grams 134 of Frion and 6 pressure points.
They took off the compressor, it looks like this way.
This 2x contact chip comes to the coupling. Tried to call her a multimeter. “And in response silence”.
Since we do not have any other crew. again it removes the skip of the coupling with two.haired. This time it is very easy, since you do not need to spin between the subframe, bumper and the spar.
The clutch herself hid behind the skip, which he holds, his mother. Just one locking ring.
I had a very strict ring, even broke off the shooter, which for such rings on the extraction.
The clutch itself in the light looks like this. The arrows marked “fuses”. two thin wires in paper insulation, about them separately later.
Well, actually, we begin “Repair”)) Having read the Internet, I only roughly represented the design of this device. In fact. a simple electromagnet) Well, since I am a pioneer here (or stupidly did not find anything in our cars and the like) I decided to do it following the example of the process of those cars that I saw.All those cars were about 1-2cm below these wiring. Therefore, I boldly began to “remove” a flooded epoxy tar from above.
It turned out that our winding is very close to the “fuse” and, of course, I first chopped it. over, it is very good So, at this stage, I made only 2 errors: 1) I did not have to remove the compressor and shade the free. the coupling can be reached from the car (the price of this error 1500 for refueling by a friend in garages). The only thing is very not convenient to push the wires.2) it was not necessary to “dig” with a chisel and a hammer. it was necessary to heat on an electric stove and pull out.
Now in my hands I had 146% not working coupling))))
And then I already began to look towards Vladivostok for 5000 and Tomsk for 4000, but the mechanic prompted me that I had (? OO ?) it turns out there is a very good friend))
I turned to the electrician for repairing electric motors. There are a lot of such ads on Avito, for example, it is easiest to look for them by the words “rewinding of electric motors”.
He looked, said “one day” (and 1500 for “others”) and set to work. I asked him to photograph the whole process.
The process of repair and maintenance of the winding of the air conditioner compressor.
The master with 20 years of experience easily found the cause of the non.working coupling, but thanks to my actions it was too late I think if I knew that. I would heat them with a large soldering iron (at least 60W for sure, maybe even 100)) so that the “fuses” be exposed from pouring, and soldered a gap. And then filled them again, epoxy or sealant. And everything would cost 800 to the work of a mechanic Eeeeeeh.
Next, heated the coupling to boil/plant an epoxy and shakes the winding
The next stage is to calculate the number of turns and thickness of the winding.
In order not to shine with your hands, there is a special tool (it calculates the number of turns itself, your business is to direct)
Oh yes, I forgot to say. I washed everything on this workpiece
After that, the winding was bandaged (I don’t remember what this thing is called, some kind of rag winding))
Next, we solder the new winding for the factory wiring (and already without shitty thin wiring of the “fuses”. if anything, one of the fuses burns in the cabin).
Well, in conclusion, we pour everything with epoxy and let it cool (according to the instructions. a day, in fact. 4 hours).