DIY ending pipe ends. Outer layer

DIY Polypropylene Pipes for Polypropylene Pipes drawings

In the production of any structures from pipes, both metal and plastic, a special difficulty is caused by the procedure for joining two products. The ends of the cut pipes require special processing, verified fitting, to exclude not only the formation of gaps, but also to give the design an aesthetic look.

In some cases, turning or milling machines are used for these purposes, but they do not have a specific equipment for the exact implementation of this type of work.

Quickly and efficiently processing the sections of the pipes of pipes allows only one type of equipment called the endings.

How to make a home.made pipe endiveman.

In the practice of any garage master who loves to do everything with his own hands, or a customizer who remakes or makes a frame from scratch, often has to weld the pipes of various diameters. But before welding the pipes, they must be adjusted with each other, and preferably with minimal and even gaps all over the junction. Do this with a conventional corner grinder, if possible, for a long time and tiring. Especially if such fitting needs to be done several. For a quick and accurate trimming of pipes for the required diameter, there is a useful device called the endings. In this article, we will consider what you can make the pipes with your own hands from.

Now the branded end shows of the factory manufacture have begun to appear on sale, but their price is not affordable (some cost several hundred. for example, as in the photo on the left), and very cheap products will not work for a long time. Of course, you can end the pipes with the help of a lathe, but not everyone has it, and to fix the pipes in the machine, you still have to make a home.made clamping device, however, as well as for a drilling machine.

And since we have already started talking about a drilling machine, then those who have it, then it will be possible to make one of the options for a universal endover, which can work as a prefix for a drilling machine, and as an option for a drill, if you need to work outside the garage. And the dimensions of this end.shower will completely depend on the dimensions of your drilling machine.

The basis of such a device (see photo 1) is a metal sheet, 8. 10 mm thick, cut out in shape approximately as in the photo, and the dimensions depend on the dimensions of your machine. In the upper part of the plate, a groove should be made in which the shaft bearing housing will be fixed. The housing of the bearings is made from a steel bar, but you can use duralumin, bronze, brass. In the bar, it will be necessary to drill a through hole for needle bearings depicted in photo 2 and photo Z. The diameter of the through hole in the bar depends on the outer diameter of the cage of the bearings, which you will find, and on the diameter of the shaft too.

But it is better of course a hole for bearings to order a milling holder so that he chosen it with a milling cutter, strictly parallel to the lower plane of the bar (that which adjacent to the border in the plate). over, the hole of a slightly smaller diameter of the bearings is first drilled, and the holes of a slightly larger diameter are already selected from the edges, which are equal to the diameters of the bearings.

This will allow in the middle of the bar, at a depth equal to the width of the needle bearing, to get a step 1.5 mm so that the bearings rest on this step and do not fall deeper than necessary. And from both edges of the holes in the bar (to a depth of 7 mm), it is also advisable to choose a milling cutter and holes of a larger diameter, for oil seals that will greatly extend the life of the bearings (all holes can be made on a lathe, and preferably in one pass). By the way, these oil seals, with their tight pressing, will not allow needle bearings to fall out of their holes.

Although, if you pay attention to the needle bearings in photo 3, it is easy to notice that a groove for lubrication is protected in the middle of the outer clip. This groove can also be used to fix the bearing in the case.

It will be necessary to drill a hole in the housing (opposite each bearing) in which the thread is cut and then the sharpened fixing screw (for each bearing) is connected, which will reproach the groove (and into the lubrication hole) in the external clip of the bearing and fix the bearing in its place.

But still, it is necessary to try (tokar or milling gunner) when processing the holes of the case, so that, when subsequent pressing, the clips of the bearings go tightly into their holes in the housing.

Sometimes it will be possible to twist the fixing screws, and pour a little oil into the hole to lubricate the rollers. After all, there is a special hole in the clip (see photo 3), to supply lubrication to the rollers.

In the lower plane of the bar (hoods of the bearings), the one that adjacent to the plane of the plate plate, you should drill a couple of holes and cut the M10 thread into them. Then, stilettos with M10 threads are screwed into these holes on the glue. It remains to insert the bearing housing with hairpins into the groove of the plate, and fix the lamb nuts. The length of the groove in the plate will allow you to slightly change (move up) the position of the bearing housing, which is sometimes useful if you need to hold a large diameter pipe (as in photo 8).

ending, pipe, ends, outer

The shaft on which the coronal milling mill will be attached can be ordered by a hard steel turner, but it is better to use the finished shaft from the shock.absorber car suspension rack (you can search for auto disorder). The main advantage of the shock absorber rod is that it already has a solid and polished coating, and will slide well in bearings and slowly wear out. But you will need to look for a shock absorber rod, with an outer diameter for the inner diameter of your needle bearings.

In the upper part of the rod, samples should be made to make a hexagon (like a coronal milling cutter in photo 4), this will not allow the rod to turn in the cartridge of the drilling machine.

How to fix the coronal cutter on a stem? There are several options, and the simplest is to accurately drill (better on a lathe) in the lower end of the rod hole, with a diameter like a hexagon of the coronet cutter, and then, and then from the sides of the rod, drill a pair of holes (with a thread) for the screws that will clamp the hex of the milling cutter in the hole and fix it from the thicket.

In the second option, you can make the design itself slightly higher, and set the lower part of the rod and cut there thread (or cone) for a small cartridge from a drill. I think this option is better, since it allows you to reinforce the cutter more reliable, and quickly change it. But this option makes the endiveman slightly higher, and it may not fit into the small drilling machine. But as an option to use a end.shoe without a drilling machine (or with a large machine), I consider this option the best. over, a new cartridge from a drill can now be bought very cheap (approximately 5. 7).

Features of the material

When choosing a cleaning method, you need to consider the end of the pipe. In standard wires for cold and hot water supply, heating, the reinforcing layer is located in the middle, between the outer and the inner layers. In old models, it is located closer to the outer part, protected from external influences with a thin layer of polymer. Its main function is not to increase reliability, but in a decrease in the thermal expansion of the pipeline. Based on this, the following features of stripping for polypropylene pipes can be distinguished:

  • The internal reinforcing layer will not be removed, but only the ends are cleaned. This is needed for soldering polypropylene.
  • With the outer layer of aluminum, a complete stripping of the surface is necessary to a depth of up to 2 mm. The foil layer at the connection site with the coupling is completely removed.
  • Pipe without reinforcement is not necessary to clean or handle.

The removal of part of the aluminum foil is necessary for all types of coatings. homogeneous and with penetration. Reason. the metal heats up and cools faster than plastic. In the contact zone, heterogeneous crystallization on the border with aluminum may occur, which will lead to a loss of mechanical resistance.

What are the tools for cleaning polypropylene pipes

Proper stripping for pipes begins with the choice of tools. Its type and design depends on the type of reinforcement (external, internal), diameter. For end soldering, it is necessary to use special machines for removing the edge. But polypropylene products are rarely made with a diameter of more than 60 mm. To do this, use polyethylene pipelines.

Nozzles for a drill

You can buy several manual scores for standard diameters to arrange a pipeline with your own hands. 16, 20, 25 and 32 mm. An example of an external processing tool is a series of Masterprof or Newton models. Each is calculated for two diameters, for example. 20×25 or 16×20. The knives are located vertically, their replacement, regulation of position is possible.

Manual removal is convenient for a small amount of work. If you need to do this, it is recommended to purchase special nozzles for a drill. They also differ in size, but everyone is designed for fastening in a standard drill cartridge. These are optimal cleaning tools for polypropylene pipes 20-25 mm.

How to choose a manual type cleaning or for a drill:

  • made of instrumental steel;
  • the surface is corrugated for the convenience of fixation;
  • For manual models, the length of the gate is from 15 cm, there is the possibility of replacing it;
  • Drill nozzles (shaver) can be of different diameters. This is achieved by regulation of the position of the blades.

An additional tool. a vice or clamp for fixing the pipe. So it will be more convenient to process the surface, you will not need to make great efforts to remove.

Working with the endings

The endings are necessary to clean the ends. It differs from the nozzles and shavers with the location of the knives. Their plane is in a horizontal position at a slight angle. The chamfer of up to 1 mm aluminum layer is removed. The advantage of this tool is universality. It is used to align the plane of the pipes, which affects the accuracy of the soldering. Features of the floor:

  • the ability to adjust the location of the knives, which will allow one nozzle for pipes of several diameters;
  • There are models for manual processing or installed in a drill;
  • Standard diameters. 20/25, 32/40 and 50/63.

The depth of the chamfer depends on the evenness of the cut of the pipe. Often the endings are used first to align the end of the end, and then to clean the surface. Only a small part of the foil layer is removed, which excludes its appearance in the place of adhesion.

Potice for metal and polypropylene pipes

The principle of operation of the endings for metal pipes

The task of the pipeline is to minimize the gaps that are inevitably obtained when adjusting the ends manually, as well as give a welded joint sufficient aesthetics.

It is known that when connecting and inserting steel pipes, depending on the angle of their mutual inclination and diameter, the mutual conjugation curve can be a parabole, arc, or even a straight line.

Therefore, the analytical calculation is very difficult to perform a successful conjugation.

The problem can be solved by spatial 3D modeling using the well-known Compass or AutoCAD programs, but in practice they act differently.

In serial production, ending pipes is carried out using a milling machine equipped with a dividing head. The method is accurate, however, it requires the availability of appropriate equipment, which is not always at the disposal of a home master. At the same time, having a powerful metal drill (from 1000 watts) and a coronet cutter, you can quickly uncrofilate the end of any pipe.

The industrial variants of such devices in the specialized literature are called Tube Notcher (groove erasers, although curved contours are also able to perform).

  • Shaft, on one end of which there is a seat for a drill cartridge, and on the second. a seat for a coronal mill.
  • A bearing knot, rotating in which, the shaft receives the necessary stiffness.
  • Case, sometimes. with a vice for the clamping of a tubular workpiece.
  • Rotary device with which the workpiece can be placed at the required angle.
  • Adjusting screw.

With the help of the endings under consideration, it can be performed by pairing pipes with a diameter of 6 75 mm, which in most cases is quite enough. The range of changes in the conjugation angles is from 45 to 2100. It should be noted that the crowned milling cutter is not included.

To process long pipes, hand.headed pipes with a chain clamp are used, and for short products, the support and guide parts of the devices are combined in one node. The safety of the work is ensured by the presence of locking rings, which limit the longitudinal movement of the shaft.

The shaft is the most structurally complex element of the endings. Firstly, it should receive longitudinal movement as the milling cutter into the metal is introduced.

Secondly, when milling, vibrations are created, which are due to a sharp fluctuation in the rotating moment of the basic power tool.

Therefore, the shaft is made with polished, has a sliding landing of high accuracy, and the applied bearings. needle.type bearings, which allow compensation for axial and radial loads.

The price of such devices is from 8000 to 50,000 at the same time all the endings for pipes of the TT size line. there are enough compact devices that are fixed in the lattice cartridge. The electric drill is fixed similarly. When processing pipes of small diameter, the device can be rested right on the floor of the workshop.

DIY pipe

With the mass production of style of style profiled pipes (for example, in sports auto and motorized machine, or in plumbing repair sections), manual pipes can be made on its own. To do this, the initial scheme of the endings, which is shown in the figure, is made under the homework at the disposal of the homework.

  • The grounds in which milling grooves are performed to install a clamping device. In turn, the shape of the base can be adapted to the existing workbench, desktop, etc. D.
  • L-shaped bracket with three longitudinal grooves, the presence of which allows you to fix in the device of pipes of different diameters.
  • Slutties with adjusting and clamping screws.
  • Interchangeable clamping paw.
  • Brackets that presses the paw to the slider with screws.
  • Bearing node.
  • Rotary lever that serves as a supporting surface for a bearing knot.
  • Shaft, not constructively different from a similar part of industrial end shows.

For the manufacture of the shaft, you can use the front rack of the shock absorber of a car (for example, VAZ. they are easier to get in a car service).

In addition, the brand became the shock absorber racks in its strength and operational characteristics is fully consistent with the requirements of the stiffness for high.quality ending of steel (and, especially aluminum) pipes.

The guides of the racks themselves are suitable for the direction of the shaft: they have a superficial wear.resistant coating based on antifriction alloys. The ends of the rack, naturally subject to additional processing. for fastening in the drill cartridge, and for the installation of a coronal milling cutter.

Needle bearings should be put into the guides, the size of which is selected by the dimensions of the guides. Two bearings installed in the replaced hydraulic fragment guide from the cylinders will provide the necessary stiffness and parallelism of the main working node of the endings. Bearings are installed simultaneously from both ends of the case.

The available tips regarding the installation of fluoroplastic guides should be taken skeptical, since the bearing capacity of fluoroplast is much lower than bearings.

Baileigh Industrial’s style endor-Community “Homemade Garage Hi-End” on Drive2

The endings are a device for preparing pipes in welding at an angle, cutting saddles and drilling holes in the pipes.

Having tried several designs of pipes for pipes in the case, I came to the conclusion that the construction proposed by Baileigh (www.Baileigh.COM/Tube-Notcher-TN-250).

Making Pipes in Blender. Lazy Tutorials

She also has its own restrictions, but there are much less, when compared with simpler designs. The price of the original design, of course, is intriguing, but running ahead, I can say that I understand where it came from.

Began, as always with drawing 3D models. Parts were cut along it.

Having postponed, frauding the grooves and the holes made the first assembly.

And-does not work:-/ more precisely, it works very strangely.

Fist clamp requires a fairly accurate observance of the geometry of guide grooves and gaps. They should not be too close, but not too free. Otherwise, the mechanism either wedges during work, or it does not pour anything. The shape of the fist also matters, and if you choose it incorrectly, it will not hold the pipe.

I had to redo individual structural elements several times before everything worked as it should.

Then came the turn of a guide with a bearing knot and a shaft. The shaft should have surface hardening and, preferably, chrome. In our conditions, we could not do this on our own, and we had to look for a ready.made solution.

In the guide, the most difficult thing was to ensure the correct landing of the needle bearing, they coped with this task on their own.When working with pipes, crowns of different sizes are used, and their landing holes are different.

In Chinese end shows, this is solved by the screwing of an additional adapter, but this is a bad option, t.to. With frequent use, the thread suffers both on adapters and on the crowns. In addition, unscrewing the crown from the shaft after work is still a quest.We solved this problem, fixing the holders of the crown inside the shaft.

Thanks to this, the tool can be changed very quickly, and having several holders in their hands, you can provide them with all the crowns that are on the farm, and unscrew them only when the crown is worn out.

Potice for metal and polypropylene pipes

The principle of operation of the endings for metal pipes

The task of the pipeline is to minimize the gaps that are inevitably obtained when adjusting the ends manually, as well as give a welded joint sufficient aesthetics.

It is known that when connecting and inserting steel pipes, depending on the angle of their mutual inclination and diameter, the mutual conjugation curve can be a parabole, arc, or even a straight line.

Therefore, the analytical calculation is very difficult to perform a successful conjugation.

The problem can be solved by spatial 3D modeling using the well-known Compass or AutoCAD programs, but in practice they act differently.

In serial production, ending pipes is carried out using a milling machine equipped with a dividing head. The method is accurate, however, it requires the availability of appropriate equipment, which is not always at the disposal of a home master. At the same time, having a powerful metal drill (from 1000 watts) and a coronet cutter, you can quickly uncrofilate the end of any pipe.

The industrial variants of such devices in the specialized literature are called Tube Notcher (groove erasers, although curved contours are also able to perform).

  • Shaft, on one end of which there is a seat for a drill cartridge, and on the second. a seat for a coronal mill.
  • A bearing knot, rotating in which, the shaft receives the necessary stiffness.
  • Case, sometimes. with a vice for the clamping of a tubular workpiece.
  • Rotary device with which the workpiece can be placed at the required angle.
  • Adjusting screw.

With the help of the endings under consideration, it can be performed by pairing pipes with a diameter of 6 75 mm, which in most cases is quite enough. The range of changes in the conjugation angles is from 45 to 2100. It should be noted that the crowned milling cutter is not included.

To process long pipes, hand.headed pipes with a chain clamp are used, and for short products, the support and guide parts of the devices are combined in one node. The safety of the work is ensured by the presence of locking rings, which limit the longitudinal movement of the shaft.

The shaft is the most structurally complex element of the endings. Firstly, it should receive longitudinal movement as the milling cutter into the metal is introduced.

Secondly, when milling, vibrations are created, which are due to a sharp fluctuation in the rotating moment of the basic power tool.

Therefore, the shaft is made with polished, has a sliding landing of high accuracy, and the applied bearings. needle.type bearings, which allow compensation for axial and radial loads.

The price of such devices is from 8000 to 50,000 at the same time all the endings for pipes of the TT size line. there are enough compact devices that are fixed in the lattice cartridge. The electric drill is fixed similarly. When processing pipes of small diameter, the device can be rested right on the floor of the workshop.

DIY pipe

With the mass production of style of style profiled pipes (for example, in sports auto and motorized machine, or in plumbing repair sections), manual pipes can be made on its own. To do this, the initial scheme of the endings, which is shown in the figure, is made under the homework at the disposal of the homework.

  • The grounds in which milling grooves are performed to install a clamping device. In turn, the shape of the base can be adapted to the existing workbench, desktop, etc. D.
  • L-shaped bracket with three longitudinal grooves, the presence of which allows you to fix in the device of pipes of different diameters.
  • Slutties with adjusting and clamping screws.
  • Interchangeable clamping paw.
  • Brackets that presses the paw to the slider with screws.
  • Bearing node.
  • Rotary lever that serves as a supporting surface for a bearing knot.
  • Shaft, not constructively different from a similar part of industrial end shows.

For the manufacture of the shaft, you can use the front rack of the shock absorber of a car (for example, VAZ. they are easier to get in a car service).

In addition, the brand became the shock absorber racks in its strength and operational characteristics is fully consistent with the requirements of the stiffness for high.quality ending of steel (and, especially aluminum) pipes.

The guides of the racks themselves are suitable for the direction of the shaft: they have a superficial wear.resistant coating based on antifriction alloys. The ends of the rack, naturally subject to additional processing. for fastening in the drill cartridge, and for the installation of a coronal milling cutter.

Needle bearings should be put into the guides, the size of which is selected by the dimensions of the guides. Two bearings installed in the replaced hydraulic fragment guide from the cylinders will provide the necessary stiffness and parallelism of the main working node of the endings. Bearings are installed simultaneously from both ends of the case.

The available tips regarding the installation of fluoroplastic guides should be taken skeptical, since the bearing capacity of fluoroplast is much lower than bearings.

Faccosterers and tools for removing a grath, Zenovka

Pipes from polymeric materials actively displaces such metal products. Polypropylene products are popular thanks to simple installation and view.

Especially in the operational parameters of the system from plastic reinforced products are practically not inferior to communications from metallic pipe rolling.

Polymer networks from enhanced products are characterized by increased reliability and durability, but only if the installation technology is observed.

Therefore, you need to know the features of stripping polypropylene pipes with reinforcement, so that the engineering system created from them works for decades.

Why reinforcement is for

A pipe with internal reinforcement is a three.layer product. Products consists of two PP and one amplifying layer. Thanks to reinforcement at the pipeline, strength does not deteriorate when the temperature changes dramatically.

Reinforced products are also characterized by a smaller coefficient of temperature lengthening. This characteristic in products with aluminum reinforcement is 6% lower compared to pipe products made only of one polypropylene.

Thanks to the additional strengthening layer in the pipeline, engineering systems created from it can move hot water. In this case, there is no rupture of networks from reinforced pipe products. The flexibility of reinforcing material allows you to compensate for the temperature changes.

Strengthening polypropylene pipes is performed when using:

Manufacturers make pipe products reinforced with whole or oral foil. In the second version, polypropylene penetrates through an aluminum net.

This allows you to reliably connect to the inner and outer polymer layer. Therefore, in such pipes, reliability increases with increasing temperature loads.

Welding with polypropylene and pipes

The opinion was mistakenly accepted that for welding to combine pipes from polypropylene, some complex equipment, additive materials and remarkable skills are necessary.

But this misconception, reality is radically different. It is necessary to take into account the features in working with polypropylene, follow some fundamental rules and welding of polypropylene pipes can be done with your own hands.

Minimum difficulties, maximum functionality.

There are two fundamental rules that you need to know before working with polypropylene pipes:

  • Polypropylene pipes are produced mostly abroad. This means that there is no single GOST of work, which will be characteristic of all pipes without exception. Some pipes may not withstand the excessive pressure of the clamps during welding, some can only be cooked “for cold” with gels;
  • Pipe connection can be made using fittings or standard crossings that are attached to places for welding. Fitings are made from polypropylene. So that there are no difficulties in welding, it is necessary to purchase fittings of the same manufacturer as the main pipes.

When cleaning is required

The ends of polymer pipes with fiberglass reinforcement do not need to be cleaned first. However, in products with aluminum strengthening, it is necessary to remove the metal inner layer and clean the ends. Only then a reliable connection is mounted.

After all, molten aluminum prevents the formation of hermetic joint. over, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of corrosion formed as a result of the interaction of the metal with the aquatic environment. The preparation process also allows you to remove various pollution from the connected areas.

Pipe cutting

The process of cutting polypropylene pipes can be carried out in two ways. First: Preliminary measurement of all necessary areas and cutting in accordance with these dimensions. Second method: cutting at the junction directly during installation.

Read also: If the water in a plastic pipe is frozen. Dr. Lom

As a rule, the second method is more practical and convenient and gives better results. The cutting of pipe products itself is carried out by means of special scissors (for more details: “What scissors for polypropylene pipes are better to choose. types and advantages”). With this tool for pipes, polypropylene can be cut perfectly evenly, which is necessary for high.quality installation.

Of course, it’s good if such scissors are at home or on the farm. However, if they are not there, it is unlikely that this tool for single use should be purchased. Instead, you can use a turbine or a hacksaw for metal, and the burrs and irregularities should be thoroughly treated with a file. However, before these tools, the pipe should be firmly fixed.

Connection of the pressure gauge through a three.way tap

Work tools

The installation process of a reinforced pipeline begins with the preparation of the tool. The cleaning for polypropylene pipes can be purchased, rented or from familiar installers.

Manufacturers produce handle and mechanical type enderers. The choice of device is recommended to be performed, taking into account the volume of work and the skills of the installer.

Manual type tool is better to use not experienced people. Such end shows for polypropylene pipes allow high.precision and controlled operations. A mechanical tool will help to accelerate a large number of work.

It is better to use stainless shavers for polypropylene pipes. These devices allow you to make a cut without burrs.

With manual processing, the best to use a bilateral tool that allows you to clean two pipe products of different diameters. These devices are usually equipped with removable handles in the form of two rods.

Recommended set

The following devices will be needed to install reinforced polymer systems:

  • pencil or marker for marking the depth of the removed layer;
  • cutter or special scissors for the segments of part of the pipe pipe
  • Caliber for restoring geometry and zenker for removing chamfers and burrs from cakes;
  • pipes or conductor, when it is required to bend the pipes at the project at certain corners and with radii that does not exceed permissible values;
  • endings for polypropylene pipes in the form of reference couplings, endings or shavers to remove the metal layer.

How to clean a polypropylene pipe without a special tool

-What a strip? Why? The pipe is dirty? What is there to clean, it is even?

In order not to ask these and many other questions to experienced installers, causing them a condescending smile, we will try to figure it out when and why it is necessary. stripping for polypropylene pipes.

Reinforcement

Polypropylene is a material that has a lot of advantages, but along with them some features. When choosing it for the home, primarily for hot water supply and heating systems, they must be taken into account.

The main points about which you need to remember, two:

ending, pipe, ends, outer
  • Limited by 95 degrees operating temperature. Although, according to current standards, the temperature of the water in the engineering systems of an apartment building is limited by the same 95 C, in fact under certain circumstances, this value may be exceeded. This is rather a force majeure, but this happens.
  • Large coefficient of thermal expansion. The flexibility of polypropylene allows a large extent to compensate for thermal expansion, but there are situations when any pipe displacements are undesirable.Take at least laying a polypropylene pipe for a screed or plaster.

Reinforcement fully solves the second problem and partly. the first. A reinforced polypropylene pipe for heating is almost not expanded when heated. In addition, at a temperature at which a polypropylene pipe for heating begins to soften, reinforcement will keep it from deformation.

Tip: Do not fully rely on reinforcement and put polypropylene, say, on the supplies of the elevator unit in Siberia, where the temperature of the coolant can be transplanted far beyond.

At least the connection with fittings, softened, may not withstand pressure.

Types of reinforcement

Two materials are usually used as reinforcement for polypropylene pipes:

  • Aluminum foil. a layer of aluminum with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.5 millimeters located outside the pipe or inside it, between the layers of polypropylene. The method of its connection with polypropylene is glue; it can be whole or oenic.
  • Fiberglass mesh. To be precise, the pipes reinforced with fiberglass are a three.layer structure, where the inner and outer layers are polypropylene, and the middle one is a mixture of polypropylene and fiberglass.

Well, where is the stripping of polypropylene pipes here?

The fact is that if your polypropylene pipes are reinforced with aluminum, then before welding with fitting, aluminum foil should be removed from the junction.

External reinforcing layer

In the event that aluminum foil is an outer shell of a polypropylene water pipe, everything is clear. The very principle of connecting a pipe with fitting implies that not only the inner surface of the fitting, but also the pipe outside must be molten; The melt of polypropylene will be cooked with aluminum exceptionally bad. In no way so as not to lie.

Pipes with an external reinforcing layer of aluminum

ending, pipe, ends, outer

Internal reinforcement

And if the aluminum layer is inside the pipe? He will not contact the welding place.

In this case, aluminum removal is necessary so that aluminum does not contact and with water. Otherwise, with at least some difference in potentials inside the heating system, electrochemical processes begin, leading to the gradual destruction of the reinforcing film.

The consequence of this is the stratification of the pipe and a decrease in the strength of the connection as a whole.

Here aluminum foil is located between the layers of polypropylene

Fiberglass

And only here everything is simple: when reinforcing fiberglass, cleaning for polypropylene pipes is not needed. The net is located inside the pipe; It does not contact with the inner surface of the fitting; He is not afraid of water.

Fully armed

The entire list of tools used by professionals in the installation of polypropylene water pipelines is reduced to the following list:

  • Roulette;
  • Pencil;
  • Welding for welding;
  • Scissors for trimming pipes (compared to a hacksaw or turbine, they give a more even cut; if you just need to mount one home water supply, it is easy to do without them);
  • Feed for polypropylene pipes.

Cleaning for the outer layer

Manual sweeping for removing the outer layer of aluminum. these are simple couplings with instrumental steel knives inside; put on the pipe. checked. ready. They are often made bilateral, allowing you to work with pipes of two different diameters. Of course, such a tool is much more convenient than two different stripping.

This stripping can be treated with pipes of two different diameters

Topics

Thorce. tools for removing the middle layer. outwardly different from the first category; Inside, their knives are located not on the inner surface of the metal coupling, but from its inner end. The pipe with some effort is inserted into the tool. Several revolutions. and you can pick up a soldering iron.

This tool will be able to choose an internal reinforcing layer

Nozzles for a drill

They are also divided into tools to remove external or internal reinforcement; The difference with manual tools is only that instead of handles or rifting on the outer surface that are needed to turn the tool manually, they have a steel rod, clamped in a drill or a pedigree.

Here, in general, and all about this non-cheat instrument. If you are not a professional, do not chase expensive tools, their wear resistance will simply not be in demand. Otherwise, the choice is yours.

How and why clean up pipe from polypropylene?

Striping pipe from polypropylene before welding is carried out in order to remove the outer layer of polymer and reinforcing foil. At the same time, the edge of the pipe becomes smooth and smooth, the polymer layer is removed to the depths necessary for putting fitting.

Do you need stripping for polypropylene pipes and how to make it if necessary

Stripping and reinforcing polypropylene pipes is not the most difficult tasks, but there are many nuances in them. This will be discussed in the article.

One of the advantages of polypropylene pipes is a long service life. They can be used many times longer than metal products. But the life of the operation largely depends on the quality of the installation work. It can be increased as much as possible if the reinforced polypropylene pipes were correctly carried out.

She plays such a high role due to the fact that the presence of various irregularities and burrs will impede a reliable connection. Even during the planning of the installation of a polypropylene pipeline, it is worth delving into why this procedure is required.

It is also worthwhile to figure out what tools for cleaning polypropylene pipes exist (read: “What tools for polypropylene pipes are needed and how to use it during installation”). Special attention should be paid to products with a reinforcing layer.

Management manual for the independent manufacture of end saw

Do.it.yourself ending saw is often not inferior to the factory. You can see the manufacture with drawings of such an unit below. The device of such saws is similar to disk.

Their advantages are limited mass and dimensions. In view of this, they are used not only in garages, but also on construction sites. The tool is needed for one goal. cutting the ends of the boards at different angles.

Due to the fact that during operation the part is fixed, the cut goes even.

People who deal with woodworking prefer a homemade unit. Saws made with your own hand, according to your drawings, can be used for a long time. The unit is a disk saw, the device of which makes it possible to better make the cut at an angle of most materials, including metals. Having made the endings yourself, you can save finances.

Corner grinder end

Technicians of the tool with a do.it.yourself extension:

The unit can be removed from the surface and use a corner grinder for its purpose.

Details of manufacture

We apply marking to the wood and steering plate to different angles of the ending and screw the metizes along the marks.

The rotary mechanism is placed on the rotational axis of the car room (shkvoren), it is supported by a bearing with a diameter of 0.15 m or more. Install a rotating semicircle with cuts.

On the outer side of the bearing we attach ears to hold the M6 ​​screws. Put a lock with a lamb on the side.

We perform from non.working shock absorbers. They pour oil from them, the ventilation holes are drilled, which must be protected from small particles. So that at the start of the launch there is no jerk, it is necessary to set a smooth start on the saw, which will slightly reduce the speed. Install a working bed with a cut gap for a saw.

The last stage of activity is the installation of a protective mechanism for a disk. And at the bottom we fasten the guide rail.

  • It works too noisy;
  • Wood scraps are used to control wood sawdust, then the thrust is installed accurately, and then they saw it completely.

From the circular, you can make a tool in a similar way.

Circular end

When it is difficult to purchase such a tool due to a lack of finances, it can be done with your own hand.

Welding is used for cutting in a sheet of steel holes, and its ends are treated with a file.

A particularly powerful electric motor is not required to use the tool, 0.9 kW will be enough. It is mounted on the basis of an additional spring that performs a stabilizing task. To rotate the unit, it is necessary to attach the handle, as a result it will be possible to achieve the gradual movement of the saw. The characteristics are as follows:

This will allow using a tool made with your own hand, it is easy to process wood with a thickness of up to 0.07 m. Take care of customized racks and supports.

For pendulum risers, take a channel mounted on a metal base. As a result, our tool will become stronger and harder, however, end work, thanks to it, will be carried out with ease.

You can take a three.phase electric engine (2.3 kW) and a stove swinging on hinges.

Put a belt on the pulley pulley. The pendulum can be fixed on the basis of the material of the frame. For convenient work with wood, the saw diameter must be 0.42 m, and the rotation speed is from 2800 about./min. Cut the gap under the disk.

As you can see, a high.quality tool is possible not only to purchase, but also to do it with your own hands. This is what we did:

Draw from various scrap metal

This is a rather weighty tool on a metal table. In order to work with him, it is necessary to attach certain efforts. But in the end, ending occurs gradually, without shocks, easy.

  • electric motor 0.9 kW;
  • sheet;
  • corner;
  • channel;
  • hinges;
  • strong spring;
  • file;
  • welding machine;
  • Grinder.

The bed is made of guides, corner, racks from the bed. A plane for work. a sheet of metal: we drill a hole in it, clean the ends with a file. Cook the pendulum rack from the channel set to the metal sheet, its height is approximately 0.8 m. A stand for an electric engine is performed in the form of a slab placed on the hinges.

When installing the motor, a spring is used as a stabilizing device. You can not use the pendulum and belts. The latter are controlled by an ordinary bolt, while the pendulum is made of metal.

A disc 0.42 m is placed as a cutting tool.

The end is a rather dangerous unit, making it with your own hand, you need to take care of protecting devices, since there are much more errors when working a home.made machine.

  • The creation of such a saw with your own hands will save finances. For example, approximately 500 are spent on the finalization of grinders. The price is suitable for most of the masters.
  • The main characteristics are selected for their needs.
  • Having made the tool on its own, the master will easily find the causes of problems that have arisen and eliminate them.
  • Factory products have a margin of strength and a guarantee, and homemade structures are usually made from any unnecessary things.
  • Crouping of their own manufacture is rarely quite powerful, since for the best of their work, quality spare parts are needed.
  • Sometimes the money saved on the purchase of factory units is spent on refinement, repairing for self.proceeds.
  • Experts often expose their lives of danger, since by saving, they do not supply the device with security structures.
  • Factory options have a scale that shows in detail the cut angle. It is difficult to make such a device on your own device.

How to choose a saw

Of course, when there is work experience, and you do not want to invest in the purchase of large funds, you can make such a machine with your own hand. When purchasing a saw for him, take into account:

  • Buy a protection device that is required to close the disk not only in calm, but also during operation.
  • Select the mass and dimensions of the device taking into account your own goals. It will be more difficult to interact with volumetric, you will get tired after half an hour.
  • Consider the convenience of the saw so that with its help you are comfortable to work.
  • Consider the diameter of the disk (no more than a mark of 0.2 m). Examine the size of the cut. when cutting volumetric parts, it is necessary to select the size larger.
  • Make sure that the rotational block and the bed are of good quality.

Wood ended with a length, ordinary and combined: how to choose or do it with your own hands

A special manual end tool (saw) is widely used in the processing of small wood blanks in size, when their cut is required at a straight or other specified angle.

Tor canine. the general name of machines and devices intended for these purposes and having the appropriate device. The end can be used both in the manufacture of window and doorways, and in laying flooring. In addition, the tool is often used in the adjustment of various elements of wood building structures (roofs, in particular).

Purpose and characteristics

In order to correctly choose a suitable model of ending on wood, you must first understand how it functions, as well as what types of tools are used in construction.

Let us begin to get acquainted with the purpose of these devices used for the saw and ending of the most various material, namely:

Another area where the end is usually selected is the workshops for the production of furniture, in which most of the prefabricated elements need to be equalized and filled with edges.

Among the main characteristics of the end machine include such technical parameters as the speed of rotation of the cutting nozzle, the total mass of the tool and the declared accuracy of cutting. Often when choosing this device, users pay attention to the power consumed from the network.

Device and principle of operation

When considering the design features of the end of the tree, it should be noted that the professional tool consists of the following main parts:

  • the base of the mechanism;
  • saw (working) disk;
  • engine with a drive and a gearbox;
  • Handle with a launch button placed on it.

The main stress force in this mechanism falls on the canvas of the disk, which is made of particularly durable materials.

note! When working, any ends should always be placed on a strong stable base, while a hand tool can be transferred.

From the point of view of the constructive device, special attention is paid to the engine when choosing ending with wood, which may have several performance.

So, in some cases, an asynchronous engine is installed in the disc units, and sometimes preference is given to collector drives. In the first case, the endiveman works completely silently, while its service life increases markedly.

The positive side of the collector engines is their unpretentiousness in terms of maintenance and possible repair. This main node of the cutting mechanism is usually placed to the right of the disk, which ensures the convenience of working with the entire device.

The functioning of the end of the tree is based on the principle of transmitting a rotational pulse from the engine shaft through the gearbox to the cutting tool (like other mechanisms operating according to the drive scheme). Depending on the conditions of the ending and the processed material, you can choose a certain speed of rotation and the power of the drive.

Types of end saw

Trying to compare certain models of end saw on wood only after familiarization with their differences in the method of processing. According to this principle, ending is divided into the following types:

The peculiarity of the first variety of these devices is the presence of an additional mechanism, with which it is possible to move the saw disk horizontal directly during operation.

note! Simple end units usually do not have this additional function.

The combined end of wood combines two functions at once: along with the ends, it can be used as a sawing machine.

In the endings with a broach, the disk, as a rule, is installed on two parallel sided rails. Thanks to this device, it has the ability to move within certain boundaries, which allows you to arbitrarily set the width of the wood cut.

When studying the gearbox used in the saw, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it can be a belt or toothe.

Which of these two mechanisms to give preference is a very difficult question explained by the characteristics of each of them.

So, the gear gear practically excludes the likelihood of slipping the drive during wood processing (frequent situation when working at the maximum load).

Unlike it, the belt transmission at high loads allows a slight slippage, but it works almost silently. In addition, when it is used, there is no vibrations of the disk at all, which helps to extend its service life.

The main selection criteria

There are certain criteria, focusing on which you can choose tools for end work.

Firstly, before buying, you should pre-decide on how often the end will be used. The minimum functional set will depend on this, which should be available in a very specific model.

In those cases when it is supposed to be used in the house of it, your choice can be stopped on a device with a minimum set of functions. And, on the contrary, when it is planned to use this mechanism often, it is better to buy a professional model with a large set of options.

Secondly, the purchased device must be safe. So, the presence of a circular of a protective casing that closes the disk during a end cutting will ensure safe working conditions.

The total mass of the end of the tree and its dimensions should be evaluated. In the case when these indicators are too large, it will be difficult for the user to work with such a tool.

Disks for end saw

When choosing a festive mechanism suitable for home conditions, special attention must be paid to the dimensions of the saw disk, the diameter of which should not be less than 20 cm. Also, one should not forget about such important characteristics of the acquired device as the width and depth of saw cut.

How to make the easiest FACOSITER for PVC pipes

To remove the chamfer on plastic sewer pipes, the author decided to make the easiest FACOSITER for PVC pipes.

  • For its manufacture, you need a plastic clamp with a mount, two nuts and a washer of a suitable size.
  • The score is made for a specific pipe diameter. in this case for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.
  • Home-made nozzle for a drill from an old file.
  • From the tools for work, you will need an angular grinder or a hand hacksaw for metal and an electric drill (drilling machine).

The main stages of work

First of all, it will be necessary to cut a metal washer into two parts. We drill a hole for a screw in one of the halves.

Then the author gives the workpiece the shape with a comma and a file makes sharpening on the side that will remove the chamfer on the pipe.

Well, then everything is very simple: we install the cutting element between the “ears” of the plastic clamp (the author puts two nuts on the sides of the knife).

Homemade Far Summer is ready. We put it on a pvc pipe, press the cutting knife to the edge with your finger and, rotating the pipe itself, remove the chamfer.

You can watch in detail about how to make the easiest FACOSITER for PVC pipes on the video.

Upstairs

FACKOSARER for plastic pipes with your own hands. metals, equipment, instructions

Welding polypropylene pipes seems difficult only for those who have never encountered this technology. Although the process has a certain set of nuances, so it is worth taking up the connection with your own hands only after studying the instructions and several training attempts.

Polypropylene products. pipe industry products made of polymer propylene. The products are very light, cheap, plastic, durable, while quite strong and reliable. Low and fittings for this type of pipe products.

Since the material itself is quite soft, not very durable, you can not use threads, flanges for connecting.

The most popular, practically the only joint of joint is a stiff coupling. To connect with household plumbing devices and a metal pipeline, adapters with brass or steel elements are used.

Tools

The soldering of polypropylene pipes is carried out using a special device, which is called. a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

It is an electric heating device that can heat up to 250-260 degrees special nozzles. Nozzles have a cylindrical shape in size of pipes. there are 20, 25, 32 or more mm.

How many sizes will be needed. depends on the complexity of the project.

With the help of these nozzles, plastic is heated. Usually they have a teflon coating that protects them from dirty.

In addition to this tool for soldering polypropylene pipes will be needed:

  • a knife for cutting plastic products (if the volume is small, then you can do with a hacksaw for metal);
  • Fascoser (not required when using a normal knife and high.quality fittings);
  • marker;
  • Roulette, ruler.

It is not necessary to buy a tool for welding polypropylene pipes at all. If you need to combine several pipes with your own hands, draw 5-20 meters of the pipeline, then it will be wiser to lend the tool from friends. They can also take a knife for cutting.

Everyone usually has everything else, striving to do everything with his own hands.

If the volume of work is large or frequent welding of polypropylene pipes is supposed, then you can buy an apparatus.

, Although there are such,

  • The most popular nozzles for 20, 25, 32 mm are often included in the kit, they can also be purchased separately.
  • Knife and other tools that can be useful when soldering polypropylene pipes are usually even cheaper.

Carrying out work

Start with your own preparation schemes. It is important to understand how much compounds are where pipes will pass with a diameter of 20 mm, and where. 32, which joint can be performed on the table, and which one will have to be done directly on the spot.

If there is no experience at all, then it is worth training, having completed several trial joints. The training price is small, and the benefits will be huge.

If then cut the joint along the pipe with a knife, then the quality of the execution can be evaluated visually. With competent performance, the seam will not be visible at all, both parts form a monolith. On the rim of the pipes close to the coupling, a small influx of influx should form.

Before starting, all the joints should be cleaned with dust with your own hands and degreased with alcohol.

Many ignore this moment and eventually receive an unreliable system that leans after the first serious load. The technology of soldering polypropylene pipes involves the following steps:

  • Nozzles of the desired diameter are installed on the soldering iron, their surface is degreased with alcohol (only a cold device should be degreased!).
  • The soldering iron is included in the network, if there is a regulator, then it should be set 260 degrees.
  • When the device warms up, the indication light will turn off. the device is ready.
  • At the same time on one side, a pipe is put on the nozzle, on the other. a coupling or another fitting.
  • After the time required for heating, the elements are removed and neatly connected.
  • Next, you need to give the connection a few minutes of rest to cool. Forcibly cool with cold water or other methods cannot be!

It is important not to plant a pipe with your own hands deeper than it should, because it will lead to a narrowing of the lumen or even a complete blockage of the pipe. If the experience is not enough, then you can first measure the depth of part of the fitting designed for the pipe, and then transfer this value to the end of the pipe, making a note by a marker.

  • If a valve or crane is planted, then it must first be opened, otherwise the air pressure will be squeezed out from the nozzle on the soldering iron.
  • The technology of welding polypropylene pipes does not allow to turn the product when planting on a soldering iron and when joint.
  • To make the joint even, neat, you can focus on special mounting lines applied on the outside of the products.

In the process, it is possible to stick plastic on hot nozzles.

It is strictly impossible to clean it with a knife or other metal products, because the Teflon coating is guaranteed to scratch. Remove the dirt with a wooden spatula or a rag, while trying not to burn yourself.

Reinforced

Not all people know how to properly solder polypropylene. For example, many are sure that the varieties reinforced with fiberglass or metal must be cleaned. remove the reinforcement layers.

In fact, this is a gross error, not a single official instruction of such a item contains.

Reinforcing layer both outside and inside is covered with a layer of plastic. And the external is welded as well as the internal. And the ripening of such a thick layer will certainly create problems when joints with a coupling. this is a gross violation of the technology of welding polypropylene pipes. Foil removal was practiced in those days when the reinforcing layer was on the outside of the pipe.

DIY polypropylene welding: Instruction

Products from modern polymeric materials have characteristics that make it possible to use them in water and heat supply systems of residential buildings and industrial premises.

Due to the presence of special stabilizing additives in the polymer, materials are resistant to hydraulic boards and pressure drops. The system from reinforced polypropylene during defrosting will not receive any damage.

Advantages of polypropylene pipes

The main advantages of this material:

  • heat resistance from 95 ° C (ordinary pipes) to 175 ° C (reinforced);
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • long service life;
  • anti.corrosion properties;
  • environmental friendliness of the composition;
  • lack of salt and lime deposits.

Another undoubted advantage is the strength of the compounds.

The use of materials of one group in the installation of materials allows you to create a monolithic compound.

The Longer You Squeeze, the Darker It Gets

Light weight of polypropylene (PP) products and elementary assembly make it possible to quickly and silently perform welding with your own hands even a beginner.

What we work. Tools

Device for welding, in the common people. “soldering iron” or “iron”. Works from a power grid with a standard voltage (220 V). Power up to 1500 V.

It consists of a heating element (masculine dorn), to which the sleeves (nozzles) with Teflon coating are attached. Equipped with a heating temperature regulator and a switch.

A convenient handle makes it possible to carry out the process of welding parts in almost any position.

The nozzles are interchangeable, different diameters. are sold either complete with a welding device, or separately. With the help of a hexagon key, they are easily attached to Dorn.

Pipe cutting scissors. Scissors blades are made of high quality steel. With their help, you can make an even cut without spending a lot of effort.

Conventional scissors are used to work with pipes whose diameter does not exceed 32 mm. For products of larger diameter, it is necessary to purchase a special model of cutting tools. a pipeline.

Shaver (or Top). a bilateral device for removing reinforcement. When soldering reinforced elements, it is necessary to remove the outer protective layer for better welding of surfaces.

Outwardly, the shaver has the same holes as the coupling, and there are sharp steel knives inside. Polypropylene pipes are produced by different diameters: their digital values ​​are similar to pipes diameters.

Faccoster. a hand tool for cleaning the contour from plastic rags.

When using special scissors for cutting pipes, the Faccoster is rarely used, but its presence is necessary in the case of your debut in the field of plumbing.

Building level. With it, you can strengthen the welded elements, as well as correctly mount the finished structure.

Peorator, drill or electric screwdriver. For attaching the soldered system to the wall using special latches.

Instructions and installation rules

Special fittings are used as connecting elements for welding:

They come in different diameters and configurations, completely of plastic or with metal inserts in the form of internal and external threaded elements, uniform nuts.

Step

Drawing up a work plan. the first and important step. Having sketched the diagram of the future water supply, you can calculate the fittings with great accuracy, as well as reduce the amount of welding by weight.

When drawing a diagram, try to maximize the bends of the finished structure in order to reduce hydraulic resistance to water movement.

About how to prepare a work plan and develop a diagram of laying a water supply in the house see

Step

Purchase of the material. Pipes and fittings must be bought with a margin. It is likely that the work will not go as you want and part of the material will be spoiled, or in the process you want to change the system configuration a little.

Step

Preparation of the tool. The cost of the device for welding and related devices is not so high.

If the budget allows you, take care of the purchase: you will come in handy and you can help friends.

In the absence of financial ability to invest in a tool that is rarely used. take the device for rent.

All work must be done at air temperatures above 0 ° C.

Welding technology

  • Cut the pipe with scissors.
  • Before welding the junction, you need to wipe with alcohol, degreasing the surface.
  • Select and install the necessary heating sleeves.
  • We install the welding machine on a special stand and include on the network.
  • The temperature of 260 ° C is optimal for adultery of good quality. Less heating will lead to poor clutch of parts.
  • The maximum that can be set. 280 ° C.
  • It will be difficult to determine the depth of the nozzle of parts for the sleeve. To do this, use a marker or pencil. For pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, the welding depth is 14 mm (add 2 mm for each subsequent size of the material diameter). It is such a segment that you need to note the marker.
  • We wait for the shutdown of the indicator notifying the process of heating, and proceed to the welding of parts. To do this, heat the edges of the connecting elements, inserting them into the sleeve from the opposite sides.
  • If you use reinforced polypropylene pipes, then before soldering it is necessary to clean the upper layer with the help of a shaver from the cut surface, and then degrease and weld.

Faccoster for plastic pipes with your own hands. a Metalist Handbook

Products from modern polymeric materials have characteristics that make it possible to use them in water and heat supply systems of residential buildings and industrial premises.

Due to the presence of special stabilizing additives in the polymer, materials are resistant to hydraulic boards and pressure drops. The system from reinforced polypropylene during defrosting will not receive any damage.

Tools

The tool for cleaning polypropylene pipes can be conditionally divided into two main categories:

The former often have handles (removable or non.removable), making the use of the tool more convenient.

The latter can be equally clamped in a drill cartridge or installed instead of a drill in a peoporator (of course, with a shock mode disconnected).

Tip: nozzles for a drill do not require much effort, but it is more difficult to control the cleaning process, and polypropylene is a rather soft material.

If you do not need to clean the reinforced pipes with dozens per day and you have not yet raised your hand, it is better to use a hand tool.

The entire list of tools used by professionals in the installation of polypropylene water pipelines is reduced to the following list:

  • Roulette;
  • Pencil;
  • Welding for welding;
  • Scissors for trimming pipes (compared to a hacksaw or turbine, they give a more even cut; if you just need to mount one home water supply, it is easy to do without them);
  • Feed for polypropylene pipes.

The nuances when choosing

Having read the information and comparing the characteristics of reinforced pipes, for sure, many have a question: products with what reinforcement to give preference to preference? Fiberglass products look most profitable. They are more convenient in installation, which will save time during work. In addition, the manufacturing technology of such pipes looks more reliable: the fiberglass simply fuses between layers of plastic. Given that these products have good elasticity, they can be bent by minimizing the number of fitting connections.

When choosing products, pay attention to the maximum allowable pressure that the pipe can withstand. On polypropylene pipes, this parameter is indicated by the letters PN. The best option for installing the heating system in the apartment is PN 25. Pay attention to the temperature limit.

When choosing, we recommend that you pay attention to the products of German or Czech manufacturers. They hold the palm of the championship in this market segment. But you have to pay for the quality. From budget options, Turkish or domestic reinforced pipes can be distinguished.