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Why doesn’t your gasoline generator start and work? In this video we will look at 10 main reasons that will help identify the problem, as well as understand how to maintain your generator. Talk about oil, filters, candles and more!
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The principle of operation of the gas generator is the conversion of the internal energy of fuel combustion into electrical energy. Actually, these devices can be considered mini-power plants. Components are the internal combustion engine and the generator itself. When the shaft rotates with a 2 or 4-stroke gasoline engine, the necessary amount of voltage is generated, which passes through the filters.
A variety of gasoline devices are inverter gas generators, the hallmarks of which are the presence of an inverter and a pulse-width modulation unit.
But, like any equipment, power plants also break down. Below are the most common generator malfunctions and recommendations for resolving them.
Problems with the internal combustion engine.
The reasons for this may be the following:
- Lack of elements necessary for the operation of the engine. fuel, oil, an uncontaminated air filter. The presence of these components is the key to the good functioning of the gas generator, in their absence, the protective mechanism is activated and the device stalls.
- There is no spark. The problem can be solved as follows: using a special key, unscrew the candle, then, using sandpaper and an iron brush, clean off the carbon deposits that appear when using low-quality fuel due to incomplete combustion. Then you need to wipe the candle with gasoline or alcohol, let it dry. After that, you should again check for the presence of an ignition spark and try to start the generator.
- An insufficiently adjusted carburetor, the occurrence of soot during the operation of the generator is not at full strength. The problem will help solve the additional carburetor adjustment.
- Other serious damage to the generator.
Problems in the operation of an electric generator usually arise due to the absence of voltage, which arises for a number of reasons. This may be a lack of contact, a malfunction of the brushes, burnout of capacitors, PWM blocks, etc. If voltage surges are observed at constant engine speeds, then most likely the problem is the malfunction of the excitation regulators. It is necessary to disassemble the device in order to find out the exact reason for its failure to work.
Difficult start of the engine usually indicates its malfunctions. Timely detection of the cause means preventing its further development and stopping the negative impact on the operation of the unit.
Often, the cause of the malfunction is several interrelated factors. In this case, they must be eliminated in a comprehensive manner.
Most often, the circumstances that impede the normal starting of the engine are:
Poor ignition system. The following options are possible here:
- Problems with the spark plug: too large or too small a distance between the electrodes (it is necessary to position the electrodes at the optimum distance), insulation failure (replacing the spark plug with a new one will help), the formation of a strong deposit (thorough cleaning of the spark plug is necessary);
- Problems with the ignition coil: insulation failure or rupture of the winding (replacement is necessary), improper connection of circuit elements or interruptions in its operation (if it is not possible to fix the malfunction of the microcircuit, it is necessary to replace it).
Poor fuel system
Reasons and solutions:
- Lack of fuel in the tank (it is necessary to refuel the tank);
- Clogged or squeezed fuel hose (requires thorough cleaning or complete replacement of the hose);
- Air trapped in the fuel hose (check for loose connections; tighten if necessary);
- Low-quality gasoline or diluted with water (pour better fuel);
- Problems with the carburetor: breakage, fuel or garbage getting into it. Analysis and cleaning of the carburetor will solve the problem. Also, the reason may be in the incorrectly installed throttle, which is solved by carefully adjusting this part.
Problems in the main components of the engine
Reasons and solutions:
- Loose cylinder head bolts (tighten more tightly)
- Worn piston, piston rings or cylinder (need repair or full replacement)
- Bad contact between working bevels and saddles (need repair)
- Jamming valve (need repair)
- The gap between the valves, the size of which differs by the gap provided for this model (careful adjustment of the gap is necessary);
- The intake manifold gasket does not block the passage of air (tighten the bolts; if the air continues to pass, the gasket needs to be replaced)
- Poorly tightened spark plug (tighten the plug more tightly)
The engine does not gain the declared power
Reasons and solutions:
- Insufficiently tightened spark plugs (it is necessary to tighten or replace the gasket of the spark plug);
- Loose cylinder head (tighten bolts or replace gaskets more tightly);
- Piston rings are stuck or worn (rings need replacement)
- Piston or cylinder worn out (need repair or replacement)
- Poor contact between valve and seat chamfers (repair or replacement required)
- Piston rod sticks (need repair or replacement)
- The gap between the valves differs from the gap provided for this model (adjustment of the gap is necessary)
Problems in the ignition system
- Candle malfunction (candle replacement required)
- Ignition coil malfunction (coil replacement required)
- The air gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel differs from the gap provided for this model (adjustment of the gap is necessary)
- Magneto demagnetized (magneto replacement needed)
Poor fuel system
- The carburetor is clogged (analysis and cleaning of the carburetor is necessary)
- Filter or hose clogged (hose cleaning or replacement necessary)
- Air enters the fuel hose (check and adjust connections)
- Low quality gasoline or gasoline diluted with water (replace gasoline not higher quality)
Weak air supply
- Air filter clogged (need cleaning or replacement)
- Damage to the fuel damper (need repair or replacement)
Excessive engine heat
Reasons and solutions:
- The presence of interference for the unhindered passage of air flow at the inlet and blowing of the cylinder (eliminate interference)
- Poor oil quality (replace oil with a higher quality one)
- The process of formation of the fuel mixture does not correspond to the established mode (checking and adjusting the carburetor)
- Excessive pressure in the exhaust system (check with subsequent cleaning or replacement)
- Motor overload (optimize load)
Instability of single turns
Reasons and solutions:
- A small number of idle revolutions per unit time (adjustment of the number of idle revolutions)
- Idle nozzle clogged (check with subsequent cleaning)
Intake system malfunction
- Air enters the intake manifold (tightening or replacing the gasket)
Cylinder head malfunction
- Leakage of gasket leading to gas breakthrough (gasket replacement)
- The clearance in the valves differs from that set for this model (adjustment of the clearance is necessary)
- Valves are not closed tightly (adjustment of valve closure density)
- Too much clearance between the guide sleeve and valve stem (valve replacement required)
Malfunction ignition system
- The spark plug produces a faint spark (need to replace the spark plug)
Increased oil consumption
Reasons and solutions:
- Poorly tightened drain plug (tightening the plug will help)
- Damage to cork gasket (gasket replacement)
- Loose bolts of the main bearing cap (tighten the bolts)
- Main bearing cap gasket malfunction (replace gasket)
- Malfunction of an epiploon of a cranked shaft (to replace an epiploon)
Low oil viscosity
- Piston ring malfunction (piston ring replacement)
- Piston ring wear, jamming or poor contact with the cylinder wall (replacing piston rings)
- Extremely worn piston and cylinder (replacing piston and cylinder)
- Excessive valve stem wear (valve stem replacement)
- Too much oil (adjust oil level)
- Damage to the breather (repair or replacement of the breather)
Increased fuel consumption
Reasons and solutions:
Problems in the fuel system
- Air filter clogged (cleaning or replacing)
- Needle valve failure (part replacement)
- Too much oil in the float chamber (adjust oil level)
- The air damper only opens partially (repair or replacement)
Problems in the operation of the main engine components
Reasons and solutions:
Malfunction ignition system
- Bad state of contacts (tidy contacts)
- Malfunction or clogging of the spark plug (cleaning or replacing the spark plug)
Fuel system malfunction
- Poor fuel mixture (cleaning, adjusting, or replacing carburetor components)
- Poor carb operation (disassembling and cleaning the carb)
- Fuel hose damaged or clogged (clean or replace)
- The intake manifold draws in air (tightening the manifold pipe or replacing the gasket)
Cylinder head malfunction
- The walls of the combustion chamber are coated with carbon (cleaning the combustion chamber)
- Loose cylinder head gasket leading to gas breakthrough (gasket replacement)
- The valve clearance is different from the clearance set for this model (adjusting the clearance)
- Valve wear due to overheating (valve replacement)
- Worn valve springs (spring replacement)
- Incorrect valve timing (timing adjustment)
Video: How Much Oil To Pour Into A Gasoline Trimmer Huter
Reasons and solutions
The silencer shoots at the factory, while the fire is visible
- Defective spark plugs (change spark plugs)
- The mixture in the cylinders does not burn out completely (cleaning or replacing air filters)
- Problems with the exhaust valve (incomplete closure, wear, burnout of the seat); ingress of a burning mixture into the muffler (check that the carburetor settings are correct)
- The flash in the silencer occurs due to the knocking down of the opening angle of the valves, or the knocking down of the ignition angle when the spark plug flashes when the exhaust valve is ajar (check the degree of tightness of the fit of the valve to the seat; make sure that the valve timing and timing of ignition are set correctly);
A minute after starting and warming up, the gas generator stalls, while gasoline enters in normal mode, the air filter is not dirty.
- Not enough oil (add oil to the level indicated on the label)
In a practically new generator, when it is put into operation, there is no current
- Inrush current excess, i.e. connection to the generator of devices that at startup require more energy than the generator produces
A gas generator with a life of 1 year has leaking gasoline from the air filter
- Clogged or oxidized carburetor (if clogged, the carburetor must be cleaned; if oxidized, replace it)
Hour sensor does not work (sensor replacement)
When the generator was operating in excess of the permissible power, the voltage disappeared, with the engine working properly
- Burnout of diodes or windings (replacement of failed elements)
The gas generator stalls a minute after starting; it goes on constantly
- Lack of fuel (check fuel level)
- Before cleaning the gas generator for winter storage, the fuel did not drain (carburetor replacement)
The new gas generator, two minutes after starting, begins to interrupt operations, after which it stalls
- Lack of fuel (check gasoline level)
During generator operation, voltage suddenly drops. When measuring, the output voltage level is 60-63 volts
- Burnout of the diode bridge or starter (replacement of a part)
Immediately after starting, the gas generator stalls, the muffler fires. Oil level is normal
- Faulty candles (replace candles)
Oil is dripping from the exhaust pipe of the gas generator. The speed is normal
- Poor engine compression (replacing rings)
In this article we talked only about the most common breakdowns in the home power station. We recommend contacting our service center for professional technical support. We carry out all types of generator repairs quickly, efficiently. Because we have the necessary spare parts in our warehouse.
The address of the service center in your city can be found on the Service page.
Huter DY8000LX gasoline generator, no battery. The generator was recently bought, it was launched for the first time. The first time worked for 10-15 minutes, all subsequent times worked within 3 minutes, depending on the length of the break before trying to start. Before decaying, the revolutions started to float; after raising the minimum revolutions, the unit began to simply decay. There was a feeling that he was stalling due to heating. Up to the filter, inclusive, gasoline flows well (the filter is completely filled with gasoline). The candle after stopping is dry (it could have dried because it was hot).
Within 3 minutes the engine will not heat up, because the air flow is immediately high. Nothing comes to mind except fuel. Not enough of him. Buy a candle for a spare. Helps like.
The problem with the HT950A gas generator. During operation, the crankshaft wedged. After an independent replacement, it began to work unstably. After some time, the speed rises or falls. Adjusting the rotational speed screw (under the gas tank), after a while everything repeats. With a decrease in speed, if the unit is shaken, the speed rises, but also not for long.
Something with gasoline. Maybe the float wedges yet. Check for ease of rotation of the regulator rod to which the spring is attached. When shaking in a gas tank, the rag moves and more gas enters and revolutions increase. Check the spring pressing the shutter against the regulator lever.
Huter DY4000L. oil in the filter, possibly overfilled. But what to watch when the power drops? precisely, earlier he calmly kept 2.8 kW stoves, and now when you turn on such power, it simply stalls.
First, take out the filter element, which is a sponge, and replace gasoline, and then try how it works, if everything is fine, then wash the filter and put it in place, if it is also bad to adjust the valves and carburetor, you may even have to clean the carburetor and gasoline cutter.
New Huter DY3000L. Wound up, fine, but the voltmeter immediately went through the roof. I measured the voltage with a multimeter. 354V. The second attempt is the same. I really forgot to measure the constant. From the side of the unit, the sound is similar to scratching the fan impeller, if any.
For warranty or replacement. There are no other options.
Power station Huter DY6500L. manual start, new candles, oil replaced 3 days ago, gasoline at the same time, purchased in 2009, did not work much, from time to time, the problem began to appear this summer, the voltage increased to 350 per week, did not touch, turned on everything is fine, today launched 220, brought into the garage. After 2 hours I took it out, stood in the street at 1 at half an hour, started 350, opened it, the living brushes are all normal, what should I do, where to look? The engine speed adjusting screw can be used to bring the voltage to 240, it works very slowly, there is no tachometer, today I controlled the valve, I set 1.5. During normal operation, produces 223-227 volts, the voltage does not float.
On the AVR, the capacitor is damaged (or not cut). So it’s better to replace it.
The problem is as follows. In winter, he left the Huter DY4000LX gas generator to workers for work in the house. When, at the end of the work, he asked the question how the unit was wound up, received an answer that they could not start it and started it from the cigarette lighter of the car. Since the generator with the ability to run from the battery, I did not bother. Recently I arrived at the dacha, tried to start it, but the launch cord extended without resistance to the full length and hangs completely freely. That is, obviously, the guys ripped him off the starter. Since I am not yet familiar with the internal structure of the unit, I would like to ask for advice, is it worth the breakdown to drag it for repair, or can I fix it myself? One of the neighbors suggested removing the lid and attaching the cord. They say it will work fine. Is he right?
Yes, he’s right, he knows what he’s saying, the cord broke. it is unlikely that the end from the spring is likely to break off, if with a loop, then you can heat it a little and bend it hot according to the broken pattern. It is better if the bend is not steep and the spring does not burst during bending, then without heating, it is more reliable.
Huter DY4000L generator, purchased in the summer of 2014, gasoline, manual start, no batteries, single-phase, 220V. In total, he worked for 50 hours. Before the start of the season, the oil changed, at the end of autumn it stopped starting, the light on the lack of oil in the engine began to burn. The oil has been checked, the level is normal. I read that most likely the oil level sensor was stuck. I decided to disassemble the unit. I turned off the yellow wires and the generator started, again on the recommendation I left it working, worked for 15 minutes, then another 10, turned it off, connected the wires, and still nothing came off, although everything seems to be restored after 15 minutes. What to do now, how to make the sensor detach? I unscrewed the nut that held it on the engine, thought about getting it, but something inside prevented it from getting it, I didn’t pull it much, because I don’t know the internal structure.
You did not unscrew the nut on the sensor, but on the cable gland that goes to the sensor. The sensor itself is a housing (screwed near the bottom of the crankcase) in which the float is located. No oil. the float lies, closes the contacts. A 1 to 2 probability will either stick away or not. If it jammed in your generator due to a skew, it is treated easily. Advice from personal experience. Drain completely gasoline and oil. Call the tester circuit: sensor wire. motor housing. The circuit is closed. Turn the unit upside down and the circuit is open. Gently put the unit in working position, fill in oil, ring the chain. open. Usually the float sticks on new electric generators, during transportation on its side or upside down, on workers from the fact that when draining the oil, the unit was tilted to its side in order to drain faster and more.
For some reason, my Huter 4000 power plant stopped working without heavy suction at high loads. What is the problem? It is under heavy loads (without suction) makes some strange sound. What is the problem, and what should I look for when repairing this breakdown?
It is necessary to clean the carburetor and adjust the valve.
I’m trying to operate a Huter HT1000L electric generator (inverter). Fault: starting from the second time, but it works for about twenty minutes, then it turns off and restarting is possible only after cooling, somewhere in half an hour, then the process repeats. Please provide technical assistance.
To begin, adjust the valve.
The DY6500LX gas generator does not start from a manual starter, but it turns and starts a little from the key. Tell me what is the problem?
As a rule, it starts from the third jerk, and the starter has to start for a long time. Check the valve clearances, set them to 0.15 mm, 0.05 mm are written in the instructions.
The Huter 6500 generator, purchased in 2011, worked only a few days, changed the candle six months ago. I have an interesting problem. I put a new manual starter on it, and it scrolls to idle, without scrolling the flywheel shaft. What to do?
Pull and see the engagement, perhaps the central bolt is tightly clamped mechanism and the petals do not come out.
There was a problem with the Huter DY8000LX generator tentatively 2013 purchase. When working with a welding inverter, voltage began to jump, then completely disappeared. It was sent for repair to the service. They replaced the ABP, started it, showed 220, without loading, I was glad to take it and put it in storage. Started a week ago, loaded a 3 kW gun and after 2 minutes he again stopped giving voltage. Again ABP. I bought a new one, installed it, but already at work I began to monitor the temperature of the armature and transistor on the ABP, it is equipped with a heat sink. Idling 51 Hz, 226V. The transistor warms a little. With a load of 3 kW, the anchor and heat sink quickly heat up, I immediately turn off the plug. At idle on the brushes of the anchor 48 century. Can you please tell me what to do?
Find the voltage adjusting screw on the AVR and add voltage to 236Volt, you look, and the old AVR will also work if voltage disappears on it under heavy load.
Huter DY4000L generator, gasoline, manual start, 14 year of release. It starts well, but stabilization of revolutions does not occur both at idle and under load. Those. the centrifugal speed control lever is constantly moving and the revs are jumping.
The carburettor is clogged most likely. rinse, at the same time see if the fuel is flowing into the carburetor, maybe the filter in the tap will become clogged and clean the air filter. If it does not help, see the spark plug. If it does not help, remove the link from the speed control and try to adjust it by hand.
The DY2500L generator works, but does not give out voltage. They bought it 5 years ago, but practically did not use it, well, maybe they turned it on once or twice for 2-3 hours. Yesterday, it worked normally for about 7 hours, with interruptions after 2-3 hours for refueling, after which problems started: first the power fell (judging by the brightness of the bulbs) and the RCD worked in the house, then again it worked normally for a while. Then the voltage disappeared and began to appear in short impulses every 12 seconds. the lamps light up and go out immediately, the voltmeter’s arrow jerks from zero and back and the revs increase and fall again, as if some kind of protection is triggering, but the circuit breaker is on the unit, and the house is turned on, as is the RCD. The next day I tried. there is simply no voltage anymore, without impulses. I checked it with a connection to the house, and without it, and just with a light included in the generator. the symptoms are the same. Which way to look? Could any of the electronics be damaged by overheating (the unit is in an extension of about 1.5 m, the hole is only one for the exhaust pipe, and it gets very hot)?
Look in the direction of the alternator, which, in all likelihood, has an open circuit (burnout) of the windings. As an option. mechanical destruction of parts (rotor / stator).
Huter DY3000L gas generator. Operating time from the force of 15 hours and then in the running mode. Recently acquired, there was no intended use. Over the course of 5 years, it started for 15 minutes once 2-3 months at a load of 1 kW. Today I started it, and the voltage at the output is 354V, it works smoothly, it keeps the load, the heater heats up. If you underestimate it with a shutter, then closer to the start-up mode, when it starts to stall, the voltage drops to 150-200 volts, but of course it all jumps, looked into the circuit that goes with it, I did not see the AVR module.
Remove the back cover. if there is no AVR there, it means that it is condenser, but for that the speed is directly related to the frequency and voltage. see the carburetor and speed controller. Inverter alternators are mainly three-phase, the final voltage is formed by the electronic module. Therefore, no AVR, no regulating capacitors you will not find there. If there is an ATS, then it is faulty, or you need to adjust it.
The DN1000 inverter generator has stopped turning on. I unscrewed the candle, ignited it, checked the gap, checked if there was a spark. There is a spark, but it seems weak. When jerking the starter handle on the front panel, the LED flashes "Overload". Tell me where to look? I unscrewed the candle, tried to pour 1 liter of gasoline. it won’t start. Sprinkled ether. does not start. Inverter generator.
If, when you try to start the overload lamp is on (and this certainly should not be), then, most likely, the inverter unit is faulty. It is not maintainable and is replaced entirely, the cost of the unit is about 50-60 percent of the cost of the entire unit. You are unlikely to be able to change it yourself, and even more so to repair it. Therefore, I advised you to contact the SC. If you yourself need to in order not to establish the cause of the malfunction, then disassemble. Make sure that the carburetor damper is in the fully open state, because if the unit is damaged, it can remain in any arbitrary position, which will prevent the engine from starting. Well, check for a spark. Not on principle "like there", and that with a one hundred percent guarantee the spark was. There is no spark. look towards the coil, while changing the candle to a known working one. And make sure that the coil circuit is not wound through any additional circuit breaker assembly. The same indicator block, say. By the way, malfunctions are not uncommon in Kipor and Fubag models, when the mikrik sticks under the generator switch, it just breaks the ignition circuit. Make sure there is order. If there is a spark, the shutter is open, but still does not start. check the fuel supply. After several unsuccessful attempts to start, the candle should be wet, if the fuel is in order. If there is a spark and fuel, but the unit still does not start, then measure the compression. In principle, with a faulty unit, these models should still start up. The indicator will be red, but the engine should work.