How to adjust the oil supply to the chainsaw chain

  • oil tank (located in the crankcase, you need to pour oil into it so that it goes to the chain);
  • oil filter (installed inside the tank);
  • oil line or oil-conducting hose (made of wear-resistant rubber);
  • oil pump;
  • worm gear;
  • chainsaw tire (it has holes through which oil flows).

What to replace?

If it is not possible to use oil for a chain of the same brand from the manufacturer, an acceptable option would be to use engine oils of well-known brands, which can be used to replace chain oils. Of course, it is not advisable to constantly use a motor for the chainsaw chain, but as a temporary measure, it is permissible. Manufacturers whose engine oils retain their working properties at temperatures down to minus 30 ° C: Nanotech Premium, Standard, Enkor, Makita, Makita Biotop, Makita Oregon, STIHL Bio Plus.

How to adjust the oil supply to the chain in a regular chainsaw. Chainsaw chain lubrication

One of the most vulnerable components is the oil pump. In this regard, many owners of saws have a question about how to repair the oil supply on a chainsaw.

The task of the oil pump is to supply lubricant to the chain. this is necessary for its smooth movement along the guide bar. When the oil pump fails, the lubrication of the chain deteriorates, which reduces the efficiency of the chainsaw. In some cases, this leads to breaking the circuit. To prevent negative moments, it is necessary to repair the oil supply in a timely manner. How to do it?

Chainsaw Chain Oil Adjustment Partner

Most modern oil pumps for chain chainsaws are arranged in the same way: a cylinder (photo 1, pos. 2) is placed in the body (photo 1, pos. 2), into which a plunger (photo 1, pos. 3) is inserted, making rotational-translational movements in it.

The cylinder in the lower part has two holes (in photo 1, pos. 4, only one of them is visible): through one oil it is sucked in, into the second it is pushed out.

The plunger is a steel rod, on one side it has a milling groove. a flat, and on the other a plastic or steel gear. As the plunger rotates, the flat alternately opens and closes the inlet and outlet of the cylinder. On a forward movement upward, the flat first opens the inlet (while closing the outlet) and creates a slight pressure drop. As a result, a portion of the oil is sucked into the cylinder. Then, pivoting, the plunger moves downward, opening the outlet with a flat (while closing the inlet) and pushing the oil out of the cylinder. This is how it is fed to the tire in small portions. High cycle rates create a constant and continuous flow of lubricant.

There are two types of oil pumps in use: variable flow and fixed flow. In the first case, the plunger gears have an oblique tooth, and the translational upward movements are provided by an additionally installed spring. The oil flow is controlled by changing the stroke length of the plunger in the cylinder. An example is an oil pump for Chinese saws with an engine capacity of 45-52 cc

In the case of an unregulated oil pump, there is an oblique closed groove on the plunger, against which the fixed stop of the body abuts. Rotation causes the groove to slide along the stop, and since it is oblique, this movement makes the plunger move forward and backward. With this scheme, it is impossible to limit the stroke of the plunger and the oil is supplied in constant quantities. Example. the oil pump of the Husqvarna chainsaw 137, 142

The torque from the engine to the plunger is transmitted through a special drive, which also has a gear. the counterpart of the gear on the plunger. In fact, this is a worm gear pair. The oil pump drive is driven either by the drive chain sprocket (photo 4, pos. 1), or by the crankshaft itself (photo 4, pos. 2).

In the first case, the plunger is mechanically connected to the drive sprocket and rotates only with it. Photo 4 pos. 1 shows the drive of the STIHL MS-180 chainsaw. The steel tendril clings to a special groove on the drive sprocket cup. When the sprocket spins, the drive spins with it. At idle speed, in this case, there is no oil supply.

How to Adjust the Bar and Chain Oil Flow on Your Echo Chainsaw

In the second case, the drive is rigidly fixed on the shaft and constantly rotates with it. Photo 4 pos. 2 shows the oil pump drive of the Husqvarna 137, 142 chainsaw. It is pressed onto the crankshaft shank and rotates with it constantly. Therefore, oil is supplied constantly, even if the saw is in idle mode.

Usually, one of the gears (either on the plunger or on the drive) is made plastic in order to secure a part with a more complex structure or complex installation. The plastic part will break and wear out first.

On some saws, the driven oil pump can be additionally closed with a special cover (photo 5, the oil pump cover of the Chinese chainsaw 45-52 cc), which protects the worm connection and the pump itself from dirt and wood dust. On some saws, such as the Husqvarna 137, 142, the oil pump housing itself covers the connection between the drive and the plunger, thereby acting as a protective cover.

A certain amount of lubrication is required for the bar and chain to function properly.

How to use chainsaw oil?

A special pump is provided to supply lubricant to the chain in a chain saw or electric saw. With this pump, oil should be supplied directly to the tire, distributed along the chain, contributing to the high-quality operation of the tool. The degree of oil consumption directly depends on the number of engine revolutions. the higher it is, the more consumption.

adjust, supply, chainsaw, chain

Chainsaw chain oils. which are better and how to use?

Chainsaw. a tool equipped with a two-stroke carburetor engine. For high-quality and long-term operation of a chainsaw, you need not only fuel. gasoline, but also lubricants, that is, oil. All technical oils, regardless of the principle of operation and scope of application, serve the same purpose. high-quality engine operation, lubrication of the leading parts of the engine, durability of parts, and reduction of the degree of wear of parts.

Important! Engine oil for mixing with gasoline for refueling a chainsaw and oil for lubricating chainsaw chains are not the same thing.!

The ideal chainsaw chain oil should meet the following requirements:

  • be of high quality, preferably a well-known world brand or “native”, which the manufacturer produces for his chainsaws;
  • have good adhesive properties, that is, evenly and densely distributed over the entire area of ​​the chain and the point of contact of the chain with the bar;
  • meet the viscosity standards for the season;
  • not be smoke-generating;
  • withstand low temperatures and do not freeze in frost, which is especially important for work in the winter season.
Read more:  How to Tighten a Chainsaw Starter Spring

The principle of operation and the device of the pump

Oil pumps can be made of metal and plastic. They are also divided into two types, which differ in their design:

The pump is driven by the movement of the drive sprocket. During the movement of the chain, oil is fed into a special channel located on the guide bar. At idle speed (when the drive sprocket does not rotate), the pump does not provide lubrication. this is done to save money.

The speed and volumes of lubricant supply to the chain are directly dependent on the number of sprocket revolutions. In some models of chainsaws, a manual adjustment system is provided using a special screw located on the body of the device. On expensive saw models, the oil supply is automatically adjusted during operation.

If there are violations in the specified parameters or the device is not fully configured, you must complete the basic configuration step again. Sometimes actions don’t work right. In this case, the device may fail due to the loss of the correct parameters of the node. In this case, you will need to consult with a specialist.

Chainsaw chain lubrication system

One of the important chainsaw systems, without which work is impossible, is the forced lubrication system of the chainsaw chain. It’s not a secret for anyone that at the moment the saw is operating, the chain friction against the tire of the chainsaw, which causes it to heat up and premature wear. To soften friction, the chain mechanism must be constantly lubricated.

Chainsaw not oiling? Check this FIRST!. Homestead Tips

How to adjust the supply of oil for chain lubrication in a chainsaw, where and how is it done?

Adjustment of the oil supply to the chainsaw chain is carried out by adjusting the stroke of the plunger oil pump oil supply from the tank.

This adjustment screw is usually located at the bottom of the chainsaw on the crankcase housing from the side of the sprocket.

It is difficult to call it a screw, since it is actually a shaft with a cam, which limits the stroke of the plunger of the oil pump and has a maximum of one revolution of adjustment, and in the standard factory setting it is set exactly in the middle.

This adjustment screw is perfectly visible on this chainsaw.

To reduce the oil supply, the screw is turned towards “-“, and to increase towards “”, the marking will be applied either on the crankcase body or on the plastic next to the adjustment screw.

Here is an example of marking with an arrow and an inscription minimum and maximum.

How To Fix A ChainSaw If It Won’t Oil The Bar And Chain. Video

Chainsaws are structurally different and not all models provide manual (mechanical) adjustment of the oil supply for chain lubrication.

Chainsaw uses sediment (oil) to lubricate the chain, which increases or decreases the supply of oil for chain lubrication, depending on the engine speed.

And the whole system consists of an oil tank, the same pump, oil wire (hose, or tube, in other words), filter elements, etc.

That is, before adjusting the flow, you need to read the instructions for the chainsaw, because the adjustment (if it is provided at all) may have its own nuances, depending on the model.

Turn the chainsaw over, pay attention to the “window” marked, “MAX, MIN”,

Opposite this “window” with markings, there is a recess

Adjustment can be done with a regular flat blade screwdriver.

Turning the screw to the “MAX” side, increase the oil supply, toward the “MIN” side, decrease.

Remove carburetor if parts need to be inspected or repaired.

The design of different carburetor models is almost the same, so you can use the standard scheme when working with them. All items must be carefully removed and then set out removed in the following order so that you can successfully place items in place at the end of the renovation.

  • The top cover is removed. To do this, unscrew 3 screws in a circle.
  • Foam is also removed as the top of the filter conducts air.
  • Fuel hose removed.
  • It immediately displays the drive thrust.
  • The cable end is disconnected.
  • The gas hose can be completely removed by pulling it away from the fitting.

In order to finally prepare the carburetor for overhaul or replacement of the smallest parts, you must carefully disconnect it from the main system. Sometimes this requires further disassembly. Unscrew the components carefully and secure them in groups, as these small parts are easily lost.

How to properly install a Chinese saw. Setup Instructions

To properly adjust the carburetor of the carburetor, you must first remember the factory settings of the machine, and then turn on the engine. In the future, you will have to leave it on for a few hours to fine-tune your own parameters. Sometimes the job is done once after ten minutes of engine running, but many Chinese models require special control.

  • Events begin with downtime. When using the adjusting screws, you need to achieve systematic engine speed, so you must first let it run at low rpms. The deviation from the norm is the movement of the chain on the tire. In this case, adjust the extreme position of the outermost screws so that the chain remains stationary.
  • Go to medium speed. Sometimes the engine smokes at the same time. This defect can be eliminated by tightening the screw for a thinner fuel mixture.

In this case, the smoke will disappear, but the engine speed will increase. The adjustments should be adjusted to a level where the engine spins when the throttle is pressed, without sudden jerking or interruption.

  • The engine checker is working. The chainsaw moves to minimum speed, after which the lever is quickly pressed. At maximum pressure, this lasts 3 seconds. If there is a malfunction in the engine, gradually loosen the screw to the optimum position.
  • The chainsaw should work for hours under real conditions. It is necessary to cut the wood and then consider all the elements associated with this event. If there are deviations, they must be corrected using monitoring devices. As soon as all defects have been eliminated and the optimal settings have been established for supplying a correctly concentrated fuel, the device setup process can be considered complete.
  • Before buying, we recommend that you read the chainsaws for reliability and quality. Watch the video clearly:

    Final check at idle speed

    Before this procedure, it is necessary to perform a full adjustment of the components of the carburetor when operating at maximum speed. Next, you should check the functioning of the device in idle cold mode. When the correct parameters are achieved during the adjustment, you will notice that the carburetor design exactly matches the following criteria:

    • When the idle cold mode is connected, the chain does not move.
    • When the accelerator is pressed even slightly, the engine picks up speed at an accelerated pace. With a gradual deepening of the pressure, you can see that the engine speed increases commensurately, reaching the maximum allowable values.
    • When the engine is running, you can compare its sound to a four-stroke device.

    If violations are noticed in the above parameters or the device was not completely adjusted, you need to perform the main setup step again. Sometimes actions are performed incorrectly. In this case, the device may fail due to the loss of the correct node settings. In this case, you will have to contact a specialist.

    Chainsaw chain lubrication

    The only point that depends on the user is to make sure that the oil tank is not empty during operation. If this happens and the oil supply stops, the chain will acquire a bluish tint, which will indicate that it has overheated and has become unusable.

    Read more:  Do-it-yourself saw chain sharpening

    Troubleshooting

    If oil is supplied to the chain in excessive quantities, and not only during the operation of the saw, but also at idle speed, manual adjustment should be made (if the pump design allows this). This is done with a screw located on the housing close to the guide rail, usually from the bottom or the side. Tightening the screw decreases the oil supply, loosening it vice versa. If the adjustment does not help, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the pump, as well as inspect the tire. it is possible that a gap has formed at the point of its connection with the body, through which oil flows past the chain.

    Lack of oil can be caused by several reasons, for each of which there is a solution:

    • Defective oil pump. As a rule, it consists in an unusable gasket. In order to replace it, it is necessary to carefully disassemble the pump so as not to damage its moving parts. Then a new gasket is installed, after which the pump is assembled and installed in place.
    • Breakage of the oil hose. If the pump gasket is in good order, or its replacement did not lead to a result, you should check the tightness of the hose. If it is defective, it must be replaced. Otherwise, it will not be superfluous to clean it and secure it with a sealant.

    If the reason lies not in a pump breakdown, it is necessary to inspect all conductive holes and channels for blockages, and, if necessary, clean them of foreign objects. This can be done with a jet of compressed air.

    Don’t want to mess with your chainsaw but need oil flow adjustments? Ask for help from our specialists who will diagnose and repair the chainsaw, and, if necessary, will carry out repair work and adjust the lubrication level. Your saw will be as good as new!

    Most modern oil pumps for chain chainsaws are arranged in the same way: a cylinder (photo 1, pos. 2) is placed in the body (photo 1, pos. 2), into which a plunger (photo 1, pos. 3) is inserted, making rotational-translational movements in it.

    The cylinder in the lower part has two holes (in photo 1, pos. 4, only one of them is visible): through one oil it is sucked in, into the second it is pushed out.

    The plunger is a steel rod, on one side it has a milling groove. a flat, and on the other a plastic or steel gear. As the plunger rotates, the flat alternately opens and closes the inlet and outlet of the cylinder. On a forward movement upward, the flat first opens the inlet (while closing the outlet) and creates a slight pressure drop. As a result, a portion of the oil is sucked into the cylinder. Then, pivoting, the plunger moves downward, opening the outlet with a flat (while closing the inlet) and pushing the oil out of the cylinder. This is how it is fed to the tire in small portions. High cycle rates create a constant and continuous flow of lubricant.

    There are two types of oil pumps in use: variable flow and fixed flow. In the first case, the plunger gears have an oblique tooth, and the translational upward movements are provided by an additionally installed spring. The oil flow is controlled by changing the stroke length of the plunger in the cylinder. An example is an oil pump for Chinese saws with an engine capacity of 45-52 cc

    In the case of an unregulated oil pump, there is an oblique closed groove on the plunger, against which the fixed stop of the body abuts. Rotation causes the groove to slide along the stop, and since it is oblique, this movement makes the plunger move forward and backward. With this scheme, it is impossible to limit the stroke of the plunger and the oil is supplied in constant quantities. Example. the oil pump of the Husqvarna chainsaw 137, 142

    The torque from the engine to the plunger is transmitted through a special drive, which also has a gear. the counterpart of the gear on the plunger.

    Chainsaw chain lubrication. Possible problems and their elimination. DIY repair

    We can say that they do not even apply at all. They all work in the same way.

    The main parts are an aluminum cylinder rigidly fixed in the body and a steel plunger with a plastic gear rotating in this cylinder. How it works: There is one small hole at the blind end of the cylinder. There is another one opposite.

    One of them is suction, the second is pumping. The plastic plunger gear has an oblique annular groove that aligns with the metal rod in the body.

    Mechanics: When the plunger rotates due to the oblique groove, it also reciprocates back and forth for each revolution.

    Hydraulics: When the sheared section of the end of the plunger approaches the suction port, the plunger is pulled back. a small vacuum is created, a portion of oil is sucked into the cylinder.

    Turning the plunger by about half a turn. the cut-off section (of course, with the oil in it) approaches the discharge port.

    At this time, the plunger moves towards the blind end of the cylinder. Some pressure builds up, oil escapes into the lubrication channel.

    Now. about the differences in design: The gear on the plunger can be metal. In this case, the worm on the crankshaft will be plastic, you can’t go anywhere, there must be a weak point.

    The pump housing can be metal. Well, not bad, of course, but not important. And the most important thing is the adjustment of the oil supply. In the first case, when the axial movement of the plunger is driven by an oblique annular groove.

    Capacity adjustment is not technically possible If the longitudinal movement is carried out by an oblique cut at the rear of the plunger, it is possible to adjust the flow rate.

    With the help of different options for the adjustable stop of the rear part of the plunger, the length of its axial movement is changed, and, accordingly, the amount of oil captured in one revolution of the plunger. _

    How often do I need to inject my chainsaw tire? And as I understand it, the grease should be of a consistency, like lithol approximately? Or the same transmission is acceptable?

    I bought a new chain, installed it, it works fine. But after a couple of minutes, the hole in the tire for the oil supply is clogged, and the chain runs dry.

    Literally enough for one cut. I take it apart again, clean it, run it. The chain is lubricated without sawing. And after one cut, the tire is again clogged with shavings.

    I didn’t try to gazanut, because I didn’t have time, the chain almost wedged, I couldn’t turn it with my hand, and the tire and chain were terribly hot, the chainsaw stalled. Tell me what the problem is, this was not observed with the old chain?

    There is a great suspicion that, in fact, the oil for lubrication is coming, only because of the large amount of dust (perhaps now you are sawing dry wood, or even with dust in general) falling into the groove of the tire and it is not visible on the chain.

    And what is the condition of the tire itself? Especially important in this case is the state of the driven sprocket and tire spacers (the chain slides over them during operation) in those places where the teeth of the sprocket “dive” into the tire or appear from there when rotating.

    Also, in case of excessive wear of the spacers, the groove depth of the tire could decrease below the permissible level and the chain shanks cling to the bottom of the groove when moving.

    In this case, too, there will be excessive heating of the chain and bus. After all, apparently this chain for the bus is not the first.

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    In addition, the fact that the saw stalls when the chain is seized indicates that the clutch is not engaging. There is either dirt between the clutch cams and its cup, or the cup itself is deformed. The clutch springs may be stretched.

    The principle of operation and the device of the pump

    Oil pumps can be made of metal and plastic. They are also divided into two types, which differ in their design:

    The pump is driven by the movement of the drive sprocket. During the movement of the chain, oil is fed into a special channel located on the guide bar. At idle speed (when the drive sprocket does not rotate), the pump does not provide lubrication. this is done to save money.

    The speed and volumes of lubricant supply to the chain are directly dependent on the number of sprocket revolutions. In some models of chainsaws, a manual adjustment system is provided using a special screw located on the body of the device. On expensive saw models, the oil supply is automatically adjusted during operation.

    Chainsaw chain oil: which is better to use

    In this case, after prolonged operation, puddles of lubricant may accumulate under the saw. This not only affects the consumption of oil, which will have to be constantly added, but also negatively affects the environment.

    Both of these problems need to be addressed as soon as possible after they are discovered. This will extend saw life and reduce lubricant consumption.

    Chainsaw chain lubrication

    I want to use the TAD 17 chain on the STIHL 250 chainsaw. In winter it is very thick. will not the oil pump be worse from this, will it fail from overload? And if you can. what is the principle, in the pump, supplying oil to the chain?

    The oil pump, which is put on 180. 250 Calms, is generally practically unkillable. it has a brass cylinder. Even working off eats twice as long as aluminum.

    And the principle of operation is very simple. It’s a pity, there is no illustration, and I have not seen it anywhere. In words. two parts, a cylinder and a plunger rotating in it. The plunger has a milled flat at the end. When rotating, the plunger moves slightly back and forth.

    Two holes are made in the cylinder opposite each other. When the flat of the plunger comes to the intake hole, it is slightly pulled out of the cylinder. a vacuum is created and a little oil is sucked in.

    When the flat turns to the discharge port, the plunger is pushed into the cylinder. pressure is created, oil flows through the channel to the tire. As you can see, in principle, you cannot damage the pump with as much thick oil as you like. it just won’t go, that’s all. _

    Is it normal if oil leaks out of the reservoir when the chainsaw is idle? Those. if you have to cut a little, then pour a little? Otherwise, during the inactivity of the saw, the oil flows out of the tank completely.

    Not. This not normal. The problem is either with the oil pump or with the reservoir itself. In general, oil and fuel consumption is usually 1 to 1. _

    How to lubricate the leading sprocket of a tire on a chainsaw? For example, is Mobil or Jcb hydraulic grease suitable? What do you think?

    they smear the asterisks on all tires (except for Shtilev ones), if you do not smear them, then the bearing may crumble, and then the tire will end, but about Calm tires. on the one hand, this is kind of a plus, and on the other hand, I saw Calm almost new tires with burned out bearings. _

    The chainsaw drives the chain lubrication oil. At idle it pours very slowly, you give it gas. it pours in a stream. For five minutes of work, all the oil is poured out.

    Does not respond to the position of the adjusting screw. Also, a little (0.5-1 mm), the sprocket, which rotates the chain, is loose. Who faced such a thing?

    It is necessary to remove the asterisk and sort out the oil pump, and check the hoses for breaks. The leading sprocket must have a slight backlash. It should not be rigid, the vibrations will go to the crankshaft. _

    The holes coincide when I put it on, maybe when the chain is tightened, the hole moves off because of this, oil does not get on the chain, but the chains, you can use one, how to blunt, remove, put a new one, sharpen the old, etc. in a cycle of three chains, do it for now the tire has not worn off?

    The oval hole for lubrication on the body of the chainsaw is made in such a way that, in any position of the tire within the adjustment range of the chain tensioner, the alignment of the lubrication holes on the tire and the body does not disappear.

    Ideally, a set of chains, when used on the saw one by one in a cyclic fashion, and the bar should fail at the same time. There are two lubrication options. Well, I mean. through what the oil is supplied.

    Most tires have a separate hole for supplying lubricant to the chain, and these larger ones are used for tensioning. And some (and quite a few) do not have a separate lubrication hole.

    And a free pull hole is used for lubrication. In this case, it will necessarily communicate with the tire groove. You can check with a wire. This is neither good nor bad, this is a feature.

    So. in the second case, quite large oil losses are possible if the sprocket cover does not fit tightly. Then it just goes right through (unlike tires with a separate hole), and drips down. _

    After a minute of running the chainsaw at idle speed several times I pressed the gas a little, the oil to lubricate the chain began to flow very strongly onto the chain, which already formed a puddle of oil under the saw. Where is the chain oil adjustment screw? And how to make this adjustment correctly?

    Your model does not have regulation of the oil supply to the chain, oil is supplied automatically. Carefully inspect and thoroughly clean the oil suction holes on the bar, carefully install the bar and chain. In theory, it should help.

    If a puddle of oil forms under the saw, then the most likely is a sloppy tire or a skewed clutch cover, as a result of which there is a gap between the outlet of the oil pump and the lubrication hole of the tire, into which the oil goes. _

    Tell us more about the oil pumps installed in chainsaws.

    Very rarely, non-plunger pumps are used on modern chain saws (including electric ones).

    What to check before working with a chainsaw

    Checking the tightening of the nuts should be done before each start of work with the chainsaw. The fact is that a tool such as a chainsaw has a lot of vibration, and because of this, the screws and nuts in it can loosen. Therefore, it is very unsafe to operate a chainsaw in which parts are poorly fixed.

    Checking the spark plugs of the chainsaw for carbon deposits (it should not be there) also needs to be done, and if carbon deposits are found, replace the spark plug with a new one.

    chain lubrication on electric saw rd-c08

    Forum / Smoking room / chain lubrication on an electric saw rd-c08

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