How to repair a chuck and percussion mechanism of the Makita 2470
The Makita peorator has established itself amongst users as the tool with the greatest functionality. It is durable and does not require special skills for use, it is lightweight and comfortable during operation.
Designed with a special safety system designed to limit the spread of dust. When cleaned in time, the tool will work well for its entire service life.
The Makita is widely used by people who prefer to do repairs themselves. The tool is easy to use, the financial cost of maintenance is minimal, it is inexpensive.
The manufacturer presents the following technical characteristics:
- Total weight of the tool is 2.04 kg
- SDS system allows the attachment of drills
- You can chisel and drill
- There are three modes of operation
- The maximum number of strokes per minute is 4,500
- The progressive force is 2.7 joules
- The mains power supply is 780 watts.
Disassembling the gearbox
To get to the mechanics, you need to remove the plastic housing.
To disassemble the mechanics of the Makita torch Remove the black plastic protective housing first. The housing is removed after you remove the four screws that hold the housing at the end. Pressing on the end of the shaft will force the gearbox out of the housing.
After you remove the housing, you must separate the rotor from the gearbox. The gearbox is the overall mechanical part. Separating the rotor from the machine part (gearbox) is simple. Clamp the gearbox with the right hand and the rotor with the left. While rocking, pull both parts in opposite directions. The rotor is held in the gearbox by the friction of the helical gears. The main malfunctions of the Makita torch are in the mechanical part of the tool.
The most common problem on the mechanical side is the failure of the hammer mechanism.
Disassembling the striker mechanism The striker mechanism is assembled on the inner casing and consists of the gearbox shaft and the intermediate shaft. The rotary motion is transferred to the intermediate shaft through helical gears.
Gearbox shaft is a hollow shaft with free movement of the cylinder.
Small spur gear with mounting on the intermediate shaft transmits rotation to the large spur gear of the gear unit shaft where the striker is installed. And the translational motion on the percussion gearbox shaft is simultaneously transferred through the roller bearing of the intermediate shaft to the cylinder moving in the gearbox shaft.
Disassembly of the intermediate shaft.
Disassembly of intermediate shaft
On the shaft pos.40 are mounted on the helical pinion pos.42, which receives the rotation from the rotor pinion, anti-friction bearing 608zz pos.41 that transmits progressive motion to the pivot pos.34 of piston pos.32. On the other side of the shaft there is a clutch coupling pos.39, spur gear pos.80, compression spring pos.38, circlip S-7 pos.37, bearing 606zz pos.36 Pay special attention to the condition of the roller bearings. There are imported bearings in the drum mechanic. It is allowed to install domestic bearings. The bearing 606zz can be replaced with 80016, the bearing 609zz can be replaced with 80019.
Proceed to disassembly of the striker shaft
Firing mechanism shaft disassembly
Disassembling the barrel of a Makita 2470 is a simple process if you use the schematic diagram of the Makita perforator. The shaft is a barrel pos.21, in which the striking mechanism is assembled. The barrel is fitted with a pinion pos.19 which is pressed by the spring pos.18, through washer pos.17 and is secured by a circlip pos.16.
In the barrel moves the cylinder pos.32 by acting on the firing pin pos24. On the back side of the striker a metal ring of the poses is fixed.27 transmitting the shock to the auger. And when you need to replace the firing pin barrel?
The most common cause of failure is the metal ring.
The beater
Cylinder with striker
The disassembly is done. Replace parts with serviceable parts and get ready to assemble. on lubrication and assembly of the peorator.
Tools
Replacement or repair of the chuck is not difficult for professionals. But what to do for those who are not engaged in construction and repair at a professional level?? Since any man in his life at least once held in his hands a drill, he should be aware of the process of removing as well as replacing its chuck. In doing so, the causes can range from a slow rim to a major breakdown. How to change a cartridge on a peorator? Let’s take a closer look at the replacement.
The first step is to determine which chuck is used directly in your torch. They can be cam, collet SDS and quick-clamp. The latter, in turn, come in single- and double-headed. In the cam chuck the drill bit is clamped with a wrench, which cannot be said about the collet SDS and quick-action clamping chucks. To change the drill in the collet SDS chuck, you only need to turn it.
The replacement of the cartridge on the rotary bolt starts with examination of the fasteners. It can be held in place by a threaded rod or a spindle. In most cases it is easy to remove the cartridge. However, sometimes there is a stronger fixation, which will require patience and additional tools. In a simplified version the firmly fixed chuck can be removed with a hammer, spanner and screwdriver. The extraction process is as follows:
Design of the peorator cartridge
Almost any construction tool is versatile, and peorators are no exception. There are many different bits, adapters, and chucks for them. The basis for any kind of work is a chuck. Peorator adapter is used to fit a drill that is removed from a regular drill. The attachments and drills have a huge variety and are chosen according to the task at hand.
Always keep a replacement peorator chuck in your home, as one can fail at any time. It is also worth noting that different chucks are preferred for each type of work. The main types of chucks include:
Amateurs often wonder why they need so many different kinds of chucks. Recall that there are bigger and smaller chucks. If the tool is powerful, you need to think about securely fastening the drill and nozzles. Such chuck as SDS-max is designed for deep seating and therefore the probability that the drill bit will fly off during the work is minimized. The same goes for the less powerful torches, which are designed for “jewel-like” work. In this case the emphasis is not on fixing, but on precision.
In order to know how to repair the peorator chuck, you must learn its construction. But how is the drill chuck constructed??
At one time the drill was attached by moving cams, but progress does not stand still. The SDS drill bits are fixed by means of 2 guiding wedges and 2 stop balls. SDS-plus and SDS-max differ only in the number of shims (the latter has one more). The attachment is therefore very fast and reliable.
Also fixing the bit itself has become easier: just insert the selected bit into the socket of the chuck, apply light pressure and wait for a click. This way the nozzle is well secured. Drill bit removal is also no big problem: just press the sliding cover and the drill bit is extracted.
How to disassemble the cartridge
To assess the technical condition, service or replace the clamping unit, take apart the peorator cartridge. Wear work gloves beforehand to minimize dirt, building dust and grease on the hands. Always unplug the tool from the power outlet.
Afterwards it is desirable to wash components in kerosene. There will be a lot of smudges if instead of lubricating the shank, grease is sometimes applied inside the cartridge, which you absolutely must not do.
Reassembling the Peorator Chuck
To reassemble the unit, proceed in reverse order of disassembly.
- After you have washed, cleaned or renewed parts you should grease them with silicone grease, like WD-40.
- The packing gland is put back in its place. The inner part is placed in the sleeve so that the holes for the cotter pins coincide.
It is possible to install the nozzle and check the maintenance quality of the chuck. The disassembly process for chucks from different manufacturers may differ slightly due to the presence of additional washers and shims.
Varieties of peorator chucks
Knowing what kind of quick-release or quick-clamp chucks are available for the peorator will come in handy when buying additional attachments. Because the type of clamping device directly affects the design of drill shank, core bits and other bits.
Now directly to the varieties:
- SDS-Plus. The most common type of retainer, which is used on domestic, semi-professional and some professional peorators. From the description above you already know how this type of shank is designed. The shank is 4 cm long and has a thickness of 10 mm as standard.
- SDS-Max. This is analogous to the previous type, only oriented to work with professional peorators, which power is more than 1.2 kW. The distinctive feature is the size. Length is 9 cm and thickness is 18 mm. Groove shape is almost the same as SDS-Plus. But there is a difference. There are not 2 but 3 slots. As a result, there will be 1 open slot on the shank of the bit, and 2 on the other side. SDS-Max chucks require the appropriate types of attachments.
- SDS-Top. Outdated look. These are no longer in production. But they still exist on old tools. These chucks were designed for mid-range, i.e. semi-professional, tools. The shank of the bit has a thickness of 14 mm and a length of 70 mm. To buy such devices nowadays is quite problematic.
- SDS-Quick. A type of chuck that did not win particular popularity. Characterized by the cylindrical shape of the shank. Grooves are replaced by slots and projections. over, this type of clamp is designed specifically for the line of Uneo torches from Bosch. One important advantage is that the bits can also be used in conventional drills and screwdrivers, where a collet mechanism is available.
- SDS-Hex. Another type of chuck design that is seldom seen. But here the design was developed specially for reliable fastening of chisels and picks in high-powered rotary tools. Also impressively suited to work with a conventional drill.
- Spline. SDS-Hex is a kind of construction, which reminds something of SDS-Max. Made in China and produced for North America. Slotted design. In percussion mode, the tool is moved by a seal on the shank.
All chucks have a dust cover. They are also all designed to work in impact mode in a piezoelectric drill.
Collet chucks are also available for the rotary hammer. They are installed when the tool is used for drilling in wood and metal.
Removable vs. nonremovable chucks
Many people have heard of detachable chucks. Two varieties can be distinguished:
In the second case, to remove the cartridge, you need to disassemble the mechanism itself.
There are 4 balls to secure the quick-release elements. They engage in the grooves on the face of the sleeve. To remove the chuck, simply pull it towards you. This mechanism is very useful if you often need to change cartridges in order to switch to other kinds of bits. But quick-release cartridges are not considered to be original.
Pehorators are usually sold with conventional clamping devices. That is, to remove it, you have to disassemble the mechanism. It is locked in place by cylindrical barrels in the grooves.
Non-detachable cartridges are considered the most reliable. The only problem is that in order to replace or repair it, you have to dismantle the entire tooling. And that’s not an easy task.
How to remove the cartridge from the peorator
Before removing the head from the peorator, it is necessary to precisely determine its type. After that, you disassemble the tool and begin to replace the elements.
Warning! It is best to carry out the procedure on the table, so as not to lose important parts.
During disassembly, carefully remove the elements in the same sequence as removed to aid in reassembly.
- Remove the rubber end cap.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the first circlip.
- Pull the plastic sleeve cover down.
- Remove the second circlip.
- Remove the coupling guard.
- Remove the springs, retaining plates and balls.
The disassembly process is complete. If you want to change a chuck on a Bosch, Makita, Decker or Elitech torch, for example, you must remove the rest of the sleeve. Replace it with a new part.
To understand what kind of mechanism the peorator mechanism has, it is required to inspect the tail part of the nozzle. There are several recessed areas on it called grooves. The tool bit, which will be installed in SDS-plus chucks is distinguished by the presence of 4 notches. 2 closed and 2 open.
What is SDS
SDS (SDS) is an abbreviation made up of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which in German means “insert, turn, fixed”. This simple yet ingenious principle is exactly how the SDS chuck works, developed by Bosch engineers in the 1980s. Today 90% of all manufactured rotary tools are fitted with these easy-to-use, high-security tool retention systems.
SDS chucks are often called “quick clamping chucks” but should not be confused with rotary clamping chucks. Unlike traditional quick-action chucks, the SDS does not need to be rotated to clamp the tool: it simply needs to be held in place by hand.
To understand the device of the chuck of this type, as well as the principle of its operation, it is enough to look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or SDS adapter. This shank has 4 slots, two of which are open on the face of the shank and the other two are closed. Open slots act as guides and ensure that the tool is positioned correctly as it is inserted in the chuck. The closed recesses ensure the locking of the shank in the chuck.
There are special balls in the inner part of the SDS chuck which have two functions at the same time. At the moment when the tool is first inserted in the toolholder, the balls on which the guiding slots move ensure that the tool is correctly positioned. After the tool is inserted as far as it will go, these balls fix the tool by rotating it slightly until the balls are fully seated in the closed slots of the shank. To make the use of the SDS chuck even easier, it is recommended not only to clean the shank of the tool thoroughly after each use, but also to lubricate it.
It should be borne in mind that due to the design features of SDS chucks the tool fixed in them is subject to a slight radial run-out at idle running, which does not affect the accuracy of machining at all. Meanwhile the small amount of play between the shank and the inner surface of the chuck protects the latter from the shock action to which drills and chisels are subjected during the chucking process.
All cartridges are fitted with rubber dust caps for protection against contamination
What is SDS
SDS (SDS) is an abbreviation made up of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which in German means “insert, turn, fasten”. This simple yet ingenious principle is exactly how the SDS chuck works, developed by Bosch engineers in the 1980s. Today 90% of all manufactured peorators are equipped with such an easy-to-use device ensuring high reliability of the tool fixation.
SDS chucks are often called “quick-action chucks” but should not be confused with multi-socket chucks. Unlike traditional quick-action chucks, the SDS chuck does not need to be rotated to clamp the tool: you just need to hold it in place with your hand.
To understand the device of this type of chuck, as well as the principle of its operation, it is enough to look at the tool shank, which is designed for fixation in such a device, or SDS adapter. This type of shank has 4 slots, two of which are open in the face of the shank and the other two are closed. Open slots perform the function of guides, they ensure the correct position of the tool when it enters the chuck. Closed grooves secure the tool shank in the chuck.
The special balls in the SDS bits have two functions at the same time. When the tool is first inserted in the torch, the balls that guide the slots ensure that the tool is always in the correct position. Once the tool is inserted as far as it will go, the balls fix it by rotating it slightly until the balls are seated in the closed slots of the shank. To make it even easier to use the SDS tool, it is recommended that the shank of the tool be not only thoroughly cleaned after each use, but also lubricated.
Please note that due to the design features of SDS cartridges, the tool, which is fixed in them, is subject to a small radial run-out in idle running, which does not affect the accuracy of machining performed in any way. Meanwhile, the presence of a small backlash between the shank and the inner surface of the chuck protects the latter from the impact effects to which drills and drills are subjected during the operation of the torch.
To protect against contamination, all torch cartridges are equipped with rubber dust caps
How to Disassemble a Peorator Cartridge
In some cases it may be necessary to dismantle the cartridge itself, e.g. for cleaning, lubricating or replacing parts. In order to properly carry out the process, it is recommended to know the brand of the manufacturer, because the basic process depends on this. For example, more modern brands (DeWALT, Metabo, Sturm, Kalibr) are very similar in design to their foreign counterparts and disassemble according to the same scheme.
Disassembly diagram based on Bosch brand (products of this brand are the most popular):
- Unscrew the plastic part and remove the rubber seal.
- Use a screwdriver to carefully remove the ring that secures the structure and the washer.
- Remove the next retaining ring.
- SDS clamp disassemble according to a certain scheme. first remove the ball, then the washer, lastly the spring.
Important! Required necessarily follow the sequence described, so as not to break the product and not to disrupt its operation.
After reassembly, you must check all fasteners
Replacing the Chuck on the Peorator
As noted earlier, not every chuck will fit every drill. We looked at how the process of removing, disassembling the chuck. To install a new chuck you need to follow the following steps in the form:
The choice of a cartridge designed for the peorator should be taken seriously. The price is varied, but you don’t want to waste your money buying a chuck that might not fit your drill. The ideal option is to take the tool with you if it is a market, or ask for help from a consultant if an online store.
Changing the chuck (chuck) on Bosch GBH 2 26 DRE / How to change the chuck on the 2-26
What remains for our client to do details of the cartridge mechanism, if you perform its maintenance service, you need to clean off dirt and dust, lubricate, and finally assemble the device in the reverse sequence.
What is more thoroughly acquainted with the question that in fact, how to remove the chuck with a peoratora or drill, how to disassemble it correctly, to perform maintenance or a small repair, there is an option to learn not so much theoretical information, but to watch an appropriate video.
At the theoretical level in the chuck peoratora of SDS-max is the option to install a tool with a shank for SDS-plus chucks are tools with even smaller cross-section planting part. To solve this problem using a special attachment (adapter), which is now always available at almost any construction market. Although it is categorically not recommended to use such adapters for the pen, because the introduction of the tool with the smallest cross-section on the pen of volume class will quickly lead to its unserviceability.
You, the tool is sold in packs and can not even be restored after the failure. At all this, it is harmful to confuse it with ordinary drills, which differ from it in the shape of sharpening and the structure of the spiral.
Features of chuck removal and repair for different peorator manufacturers
Different models of torches have a specific design, so the process of changing the cartridge is different. There are some peculiarities, but basically all elements are removed in the same way.
- Makita. Dismantling is carried out similarly to Bosch torches. In order to keep the appliance in service longer, it is recommended to let the appliance cool down during operation, and to take regular care of the object.
- Zubr. Popular brand, similar to foreign analogues by its design.
- Interskol. As with any other model, the basic requirement for the procedure is to be attentive and consistent.
- Bosch. Disassembly and assembly is carried out according to the diagrams described above.
- IE4729e. Drills used to be produced under similar numbers. In most cases, their cartridges were tapered (Morse taper12), so the disassembly sequence follows the technology appropriate for this type.
The process can vary depending on the model Removal of the cartridge from the peorator is quite simple. Almost all models have the same disassembly procedure and all that is needed is a good quality screwdriver. If you plan to replace the part with a new one, it is better to go to the store with the machine to find the most suitable option, otherwise you can ruin the tool. It is recommended to remember that on devices manufactured a long time ago, the cartridge removal scheme may be different, so if you are not confident in repairing it yourself, it is better to seek help from a specialist.
What do you know about removable and non-removable cartridges?
When using a peorator, you have probably encountered such a term as a removable peorator cartridge. There are two types of cartridges on peorators. removable or quick-release cartridges and the regular cartridges, which are removed only during disassembly of the mechanism itself. The quick-release devices are locked in place with 4 balls which engage in the slots in the end face of the bushing. To remove such chuck you need to pull it toward you.
The photo above shows a removable type device. It can be removed without having to be disassembled. This is very convenient when it is necessary to install the collet element instead. Such devices are non-original, so if you get a new torch with a removable chuck, you should take it into account, because most likely, the clamping mechanism is not the original one.
Regular types of clamping devices or original ones can be dismantled only after disassembly of the mechanism itself (they can be replaced by removable cartridges). They are fixed by means of cylindrical barrels located in grooves.
Reliable mechanisms are considered non-removable type, but if necessary to replace or repair them, it is necessary to disassemble the equipment. How to remove a non-removable cartridge from the pen is shown in the video below.
This is interesting!There is a price difference of up to 5 times between replaceable and fixed cartridges. If the original element costs about 3-3.5 thousand, you can buy a replacement for about 500-800.