How to change oil seals on a lawn mower

Self-replacement of the front crankshaft oil seal

Its inner diameter is 40 and the outer diameter is 56 mm.

  • First, we disconnect the protection from the engine. We use an 8 mm wrench. Self-tapping screws are turned away from the front, back and side. We remove the protection. If the VAZ 2107 is an injector, there will be an additional shield, but its removal should not cause difficulty.

  • Remove the alternator belt to facilitate access to the shaft pulley.

We unscrew the generator nut, it can move along the axis. We take the assembly and move the generator all the way, the belt is loosened and removed.

  • Using a 38 mm open-end wrench, or a special crankshaft wrench, or a gas wrench, unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting nut, and carefully remove the pulley.

  • The oil seal is now clearly visible. It can be worn out, gaps, cut marks. Carefully remove it with a slotted wide screwdriver, wipe the seat with gasoline. Carefully and evenly lubricate the new oil seal with oil, carefully place it over the seat, and, using a bearing or an old oil seal instead of a mandrel, press it into the cover with light tapping of a hammer.
  • The replacement is over. Next, put the pulley, alternator belt and protection in place.

Replacing the crankshaft oil seals VAZ 2107

The oil seals (cuffs) of the crankshaft function as plugs that lie at the ends of the shaft and prevent oil from leaking out and dust from entering the engine. Signs of worn out crankshaft oil seals, both front and rear, are splashing and oil drips. Standard service life of oil seals. no more than 150 thousand km.

When crankshaft oil seal replacement is required?

  • when an oil leak occurs in the area of ​​the pulley, or at the junction of the engine and gearbox;
  • when the oil seals are “squeezed out”, that is, they are displaced outward from their places, which indicates an increased oil pressure;

On the injection model, there is a crankshaft position sensor, it measures and synchronizes its speed with the fuel supply. If the sensor has limited the engine speed, then the reason is also in the gland malfunction. The sensor is placed on the cover of the oil pump.

A Tecumseh Lawnmower Engine. leaks oil, no power. FIXED! Flywheel removal, OIL SEAL replaced

What causes lead to premature wear of oil seals?

  • bad material, counterfeit parts;
  • increased engine speed, use of low-quality fuel, incorrect ignition timing;
  • overheating of the engine;
  • long-term operation with old oil and dirty filter.

During winter operation of the car, the breather can “clog” with snow, and the increased gas pressure can “squeeze out” the oil seals.

The front oil seal changes much faster than the rear one. It takes much longer to replace the rear.

Regardless of which oil seal (or both, as the masters recommend) will change, it is required:

  • put the car on the “pit”.
  • disconnect the battery;
  • engage first gear to lock the crankshaft;
  • securely fix the car with the parking brake.

Rear oil seal replacement

Now we are changing the rear oil seal (cuff) of the crankshaft on the VAZ 2107. It will take more time, patience and strength, since to access it you need to disconnect the gearbox. All preparatory work is carried out in the same volume, but the car is in neutral. Since you need to hang out the rear wheels, this should be done in a pit, and not on an overpass. The outer dimension of this gland is 90 mm and the inner dimension is 70.

First, you need to disconnect the cardan from the gearbox:

  • jack up and hang the rear wheels;
  • if the VAZ 2107 is an injector, remove the heat shield of the catalytic converter (13 mm socket wrench) by unscrewing 4 nuts from the studs (see Fig.). If the VAZ 2107 is not an injector, but a carburetor, skip this stage.
  • now you can start removing the cardan transmission. Important! A file is taken and a mark is made on the universal joint yoke and on the gearbox (differential) flange. When everything is put back in place, it must be secured exactly in this relative position to avoid vibration and imbalance. This is what the label is for.
  • unscrew (13 mm open-end wrench) the cardan shaft from the gearbox flange, while holding the cardan from slipping with a pry bar. Now we will hang the rear part of the gimbal on a wire to the rear suspension, wherever you want.
  • detach the front part of the propeller shaft: unbend the tendrils of the oil seal holder (4 pcs.), move it along the propeller shaft. We unscrew the fastening bolts of the intermediate support of the universal joint (2 pcs.) From the bracket, and disconnect the shaft with the elastic coupling by sliding the shaft back.
    Congratulations! The propeller shaft is disconnected. Now you need to remove the gearbox to gain access to the rear oil seal.
  • First, the central panel of the radio is removed in the cabin. You will need a 10 mm wrench, pliers and screwdrivers. We unscrew the two console nuts from above. Then, with a flat-head screwdriver, pry the decorative overlay at the bottom, remove it and turn out the lower screws. We disconnect the toggle switches for lighting, heating the rear window, and push out the connectors, disconnecting them. First you need to remember the connection diagram. Finally, lift the panel up and back a little, release the gear shift stick and remove.
  • then we remove the decorative overlays of the gearbox handle. Then we lift the handle up, with a flat-head screwdriver, squeeze the lock and remove the handle. We carefully take out the damper (rubber) from it, you can use tweezers. Using two screwdrivers, unclench the petals on the retainer ring and remove it and its two bushings: rubber and locking.
  • unscrew the self-tapping screws for the gearbox handle cover (with a Phillips screwdriver) and remove it with a foam seal.
  • move aside the upholstery, and unscrew the cover in the floor;
  • open the hood, unscrew the starter mounting bolts and slide it back. As a result, he will release the checkpoint bell.
  • disconnect the elastic joint of the cardan. Attention! To successfully install it in its original place after replacing the oil seal, you must first tighten it with a special clamp.
  • with an open-end wrench (19 mm), unscrew the nuts on the bolts of the coupling and the gearbox shaft cross (3 pcs.). After that, we remove the coupling together with the seal and the ring.
  • now, using the same key, unscrew the nuts securing the front universal joint flange and remove it. These and the previous 6 nuts are self-locking, new ones will be required for reassembly.!
  • from the checkpoint, you need to disconnect the wires going to the white reversing lamp and the drive to the speedometer shaft.
  • now, without removing the hose, disconnect the hydraulic actuator and the clutch cylinder from the gearbox housing. After that, we remove the clutch housing cover itself. It is necessary to unscrew 2 bolts with a 10 mm socket wrench.
  • Important! Now you need to install a support under the checkpoint so that it does not fall on your head and the bolts do not warp!
  • take a 19 mm socket wrench with an extension. It is necessary to unscrew the 6 bolts with which the gearbox housing is attached to the engine block. Now with a flat-head screwdriver we pry the gearbox housing from the edge, remove it from the studs, swing and remove the box from the car, pulling the engine input shaft out of the clutch disc. Important! It is impossible for the box to be skewed.
    The preparatory work is over! You can start replacing the rear oil seal. To do this:
  • remove the flywheel and clutch plate, for this we use a 10 mm socket wrench. It is necessary to unscrew 2 nuts on the shield;
  • before changing the oil seal, you need to remove its holder so as not to damage the crankshaft flange. The figure clearly shows 6 bolts of its fastening, and 2 bolts of the rear part of the oil pan, A and B. They also need to be unscrewed, since they are screwed into the oil seal holder body. Attention! There is a gasket between the oil seal holder and the cylinder block housing. And if you have made such a long way to the oil seal, do not be lazy and change it regardless of the condition.
  • we release the gland from the holder mandrel, for this we fix it in a vice, and, through a special slot, remove it with a flat-head screwdriver. The stuffing box is inspected for damage and wear.
  • the seat is again wiped with clean gasoline, a new oil seal is lubricated with clean engine oil and pressed into the holder using a bearing mandrel, or an old oil seal.
  • to assemble, you need to perform all the steps in the reverse order.

Congratulations! If you managed to independently get to the rear oil seal, change it and assemble (in reverse order) the disconnected units, then you have passed the exam for an advanced amateur. an auto mechanic with flying colors.

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How to change oil seals, anthers and bushings

The steering rack mechanism has a special feature: the rack itself, the steering column shaft, and moving elements go out from its body. To protect these parts from environmental influences, bushings, oil seals, anthers, steering rack are used. These protective devices ensure that the steering column housing is sealed and protected from the ingress of abrasive dust particles, from rubbing and moving parts of the steering gear.

Replacing the sealing elements in the steering column
After removing the rack, you need to clean it of oil and dirt streaks to prevent dirt from entering the disassembled mechanism. Then we proceed to replace the protective and sealing elements of the steering rack.

Then you need to remove the corrugated anthers and unscrew the steering rods. Using a socket wrench or, you can take a tube made from a piece of suitable tube size and slightly loosen the adjusting nut. Using a screwdriver, remove and then remove the boot from the shaft, then the retaining ring. Using a screwdriver or a punch, knock out the plug, then unscrew the shaft nut and use a soft punch to knock out the shaft, remembering its position in relation to the rail. Remove the plastic bushing, oil seal, fluoroplastic rings from the shaft.

If defects are found on the surface, then the sealing elements and the anther of the steering rack are replaced. Then you should get the inner oil seal. If there is a large play at the bearing, it is replaced with a new bearing. Now we turn to dismantling the rail. It is necessary to turn the end sleeve and unscrew the retaining ring through the existing oval hole, then remove the rail along with the oil seal and the bushing. Remove the rubber and PTFE rings, oil seal and bushing. Remove the plastic support bush and the oil seal.

Assembly and troubleshooting
Thoroughly rinse the parts of the mechanism in engine cleaning fluid. Inspect all working surfaces of parts for defects. It may be necessary to replace the bushing at the steering rack. Damaged or worn parts that cannot be repaired are replaced with new parts. Replace the steering rack oil seal.
An internal shaft seal must be installed in the rack housing. Put four PTFE rings on the shaft and lubricate with oil. Turn the shaft to the desired angle, put it in place, tapping with a hammer. Then tighten the shaft nut, apply grease and put the plug. Put the plastic shaft sleeve in its place, press in the oil seal and insert the retaining ring. Put the boot on the shaft and press it in. Tighten the steering rods, fix with a core, then put on the corrugated anthers.

The assembly of the rail is completed, it is ready for installation on a car. Thus, we replaced the sealing elements in the steering rack, so you can not take care of the steering rack for a long time and operate it.

Replacing the oil seal on the Buran from the variator side.

How to change oil seals on a snowstorm engine

To watch online, click on the video ⤵

Manual for operation, maintenance and repair of the RMZ-640 engine

How the RMZ-640 engine of the Buran snowmobile works and its improvement.

The RMZ-640 engine was developed by the designers of the Russian Mechanics company specifically for the Buran snowmobile model line. RMZ-640 is a two-stroke, two-cylinder, carburetor engine with a crank-chamber purge and forced air cooling.

The engine is based on a crank mechanism, it helps to convert the rectilinear reciprocating movement of the pistons into rotation of the crankshaft. In this manual, we will describe all the gearbox parts separately and in more detail.

What parts does the crankshaft consist of??

The crankshaft has a 3-support configuration, its complete set includes: right and left trunnions, cheeks with a crank pin, middle shafts interconnected by pressed landings.

The system is supported by three ball bearings, which are fixed on the journals of the trunnions, as well as on the middle shaft. To evenly equalize the loads acting on the crankshaft support bearings, rings are installed in the labyrinth seals and outside the bearings in the grooves of the cages.

Ball bearings located in special grooves of the crankcase and directed towards the retaining rings fix the movement of the part along the axis. At the sealed ends of the spare part, a spring of the type of a spiral bracelet is installed.

The purpose of the connecting rod.

The connecting rod of the motor connects the crankshaft to the piston. It consists of: 2 heads. 1st at the top, 2nd crank at the bottom, their connection provides a rod with an I-section.

The connecting rod of the motor turns on the upper and lower heads, which have holes in them, needle bearings are inserted. Recommended radial clearance 0.012 to 0.024 mm.

The gap is sorted by diameter (depending on different sizes of bearing rollers, crank pins, piston pins). The group marking is stamped under the head on the core part. The holes are for lubricating the bearings and are located under the connecting rod.

What are piston rings for??

The design of a snowmobile engine includes parts such as pistons. which do not replace each other. The pistons are fitted with two pairs of piston rings. The rings are made of ductile iron. On the diagrams, the rings can be in the form of a trapezoid or a rectangle with an applied section.

The back of the ring is equipped with a thermal gap; in operation, it expands from high temperatures. After installing the ring on the piston, its clearance should be from 0.40 to 0.55 millimeters. To achieve such values, you can cut the end parts of the lock.

If you compress the ring to a diameter of 76 millimeters, then the gap between the ends and grooves should be 0.06-0.15 millimeters (trapezoidal section shape) and 0.080-0.115 millimeters (rectangular section shape).

The retaining ring works at high heat. In this case, the oil flowing into the gap between the heated ring and the piston groove cokes, that is, carbon deposits form and the formation of resinous substances, as a result of these factors, the rings may burn. Such an effect impairs the starting performance and reduces the power of the machine.

Judging by the analysis of specialists, the upper piston ring most often burns. This occurs from overheating of the motor and its inappropriate operation, it is possible that the cylinder or the ring itself may break. We recommend timely inspecting and cleaning carbon deposits in order to avoid serious damage to the vehicle.

Piston pin and what it is for.

The piston pin is intended for fastening the piston and connecting rod to the hinges. The fingers are available in 2 sizes depending on the outer diameter. The group is marked in two colors (black and white) and is located at the end of the spare part. Be careful when assembling, take fingers with identical marks.

Cylinder composition.

The cylinders are not interchangeable. They consist of a cast iron sleeve and an aluminum coating. For high-precision connection of the liner with the pistons, the cylinders are made in 3 sizes and are designated in large letters “M”, “C”, “B”, the markings are applied by pressing on the belts of the cylinder flange located at the bottom. It should be noted that when replacing a part, it is necessary to install a cylinder of the appropriate size.

The cylinder is attached with the lower flange to the crankcase, the upper flange is attached to the cylinder head, they are separated by an asbestos gasket. When assembling the mechanism, the gasket does not have to be replaced, it can be reused.

The joint of the bearing plane of the crankcase and the lower flange of the cylinder is sealed with a flat, composite, sealing gasket material “Paronite”. The crankcase is fixed to the cylinder with 4 pins.

Design features of cylinder heads.

The cylinder head is made of high-strength, heat-resistant aluminum alloy. At the base of the combustion chamber head, there is a threaded hole into which the spark plug is screwed.

We draw your attention: in order to exclude deformation of the cylinder and head during assembly work, stud-nuts must be tightened cross-to-cross 2 times.

The first tightening is preliminary, the second final. The recommended effort is up to 2.0-2.5 kgf-m. According to the vehicle operating instructions, it is recommended to first fix the intake manifold nuts when the engine is cold.

The crankcase is the main body part of the motor. It is made of aluminum alloy and consists of 2 parts. Both parts are secured to each other with pins, which are screwed into the upper part. The fastening nuts are tightened with a force of 3.0-3.5 kgf-m.

The two parts of the crankcase are not interchangeable, so they work in parallel. The cylinder with the head is attached to the crankcase with four pins; they are screwed into the threaded hole of the support flange. To maintain tightness on the connectors of the planes, “Sealant” is applied.

Sealing of the ends of the crankshaft coming out of the crank chambers occurs by means of movable cuffs. Crank chambers are insulated with labyrinth seals, which are located on the two ends of the middle support bearing.

Engine cooling process.

The heating temperature of the heads with the engine running should not exceed 200 ° C. But due to its design development, the snowmobile motor covers the hood, which significantly complicates its cooling naturally, through special grilles.

Therefore, in order to avoid overheating, the developers introduced an air cooling system into the Buran package, which consists of a blower casing and a fan blowing air.

The motor fan consists of a stationary impeller mounted on a roller, and is mounted in the housing with 2 bearings in factory lubrication, with a double-sided seal. The impeller is driven by the V-belt from the drive pulley. It is fixed with 3 pins. The driven pulley is integrated into the end of the roller and consists of 2 semi-pulley, profiled discs.

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The manufacturer recommends tightening the stud nuts to fix the pulley with a force of 5-6 kgf-m. The body is secured by 4 flange studs on the right side of the crankcase. The air intake structure is made of plastic and is located at the fan inlet. Adjusting washers are located between the half-pulleys; by moving them, the belt is adjusted.

The top of the groove angle, adjusted off-center, results in increased belt tension and driven pulley diameter. We advise you to periodically check the belt tension. The recommended force on the belt is 4 ± 0.5 kgf, while the bend of the belt should be 6-15 millimeters.

We draw your attention to the fact that with a loosely tensioned belt, slipping is possible, especially with the development of high revolutions. If the belt is incorrectly tensioned, it delaminates, heating makes the impeller bearings unusable. Be careful not to get grease on the belt, this will lead to breakage and failure in the entire cooling system.

What are the parts of the power supply system of the snowmobile “Buran”.

  • Fuel tank;
  • Intake filter;
  • Sump filter;
  • Booster hand pump;
  • Carburetor complete with fuel pump;
  • Air purifier.

Engine Upgrade Tips.

The engine of the RMZ-640 “Buran” type has a large supply of displacement power. To unleash its full potential, professionals recommend making the correct rigid crankcase design.

To do this, you need to install the crankshaft bearings on the bearings, which make up the motor, replace them with similar ones, but made of high-strength materials. In this case, the snowmobile motor will be able to develop a power of at least 62 horsepower.

What needs to be done to increase the power of the mechanism?

To increase the power of the RMZ-640 gearbox, we advise you to perform the following work:

  • The standard crankshaft oil seals should be replaced with oil seals taken from the Moskvich 412 car model;
  • Replace the stuffing box with a new one made of aluminum alloy with magnesium and copper D16T;
  • Add ventilation holes;
  • Remove the bearing between the middle flywheels on the crankshaft and replace it with 2 middle ones;
  • Install deflectors at the outlet of the air flow between the cylinders;
  • Balance the pistons with a difference of 1.5 grams;
  • Improve the thermal insulation of the exhaust manifold with an asbestos cord;
  • In order for the air release phases on both cylinders to coincide, it is necessary to install the cylinders by aligning the edges of the inlet and outlet ports with the piston bottom and the edges of the skirt;
  • Introduce a resonant tube with a noise barrier into the structure.

We modernize the crankcase.

Weakness in stiffness, high cantilever of the crankshaft between the three bearings, is the most common cause that leads to deformation of the crankcase. These disadvantages lead to the formation of an increased load on the bearings, if they do not have sufficient lubrication, then this drawback causes an increase in resistance, rolling, friction. A similar effect is inherent in bearing retaining rings when the crankshaft is displaced in the crankcase.

In this situation, the bearings are limited in clearance. When heated, the crankshaft expands, but there is no required clearance, as a result of this factor, the bearing wedges. Overheating of the crankshaft occurs, because of this, it cannot develop the required speed. To solve this problem, you need to put 2 bearings and insert an oil seal between them.

Shaft brackets are prone to vibration, so check for grease. Otherwise, without lubricating products, wear, overheating and sealing of the crankshaft oil seals will occur. The result will be the ingress of air through the oil seal, depletion of the fuel mixture and the presence of air in the engine crankcase. That will lead to irreversible consequences. burnout of the piston, melting of its bottom. As a result, the engine will jam.

Recommendations for improving airflow.

For the best airflow to the rear cylinder, you need to add deflectors, thereby increasing the flow of cold, winter air to all the cylinders.

As for the cylinder on the front side, it does not heat the rear. Therefore, we advise you to make another winding of the exhaust manifold using silicate glue and asbestos cord. These actions will reduce the heating of the air flows that the fan blows onto the cylinders.

What to do if the pistons are out of balance?

When developing the described engine, the manufacturers did not quite accurately design all the parts that make it up. Which led to different weights of the pistons, the difference of which is about 20 grams. This imbalance in the balance affected the smooth, stable operation of the motor and caused enormous vibration.

To balance the weight of the pistons, the excess aluminum layer must be removed from the inner side of the piston skirt and the size of the bypass port in the skirt must be aligned with the cylinder windows. When carrying out these repairs, it is necessary to round off the radii at the ends of the windows and dismantle the chamfers with a size of 0.5 mm. In order to reduce vibration and adjust the excellent performance of the cylinders, you should correctly set the exhaust and intake phases of air mixtures.

This procedure does not make much effort, you just need to put another gasket under the cylinder located below and align the lower edge of the cylinder window with the bottom of the piston. In addition, a muffler and a resonance tube are installed.

At the end of this paragraph, we want to say: if you adjust the carburetors, upgrade the electronics and the ignition, the end result will be a stable, uniform, fuel-efficient snow all-terrain vehicle.

After the modifications made, the temperature regime under the plugs of the rear cylinder at maximum speed will be in the limit of 190 ° C. The crankshaft of the machine will develop revolutions from 4700 rpm to 5200 rpm.

What changes should be made to the ignition and electronics update?

The fastening bolts of the magdino plates in contact with the magnets are made of iron, they should be replaced with brass ones. The fixation must be reliable, all screws are tightened with force to avoid disturbances in the working cycle.

Balancing the magdino should be done over the factory one, this change will lead to more or less optimal vibration. At the same time, we advise you to carry out similar work on the cooling fan. For these actions, we recommend contacting professionals, since balancing requires high accuracy.

All coil leads must be re-soldered without fail. The fixing screws should be oxide coated or replaced with pre-fabricated high quality stainless steel. Use a tap to drive out the thread located in the stationary part of the Magdino, after these manipulations, screw the screws and solder them to the contacts of the coil leads.

After you have fixed the coils to the base of the magdino, all soldered contact elements should be treated with sealants. To improve the grounding of the coils, we recommend that you bring another wire under the spark plugs.

Replace high-voltage wires with new ones and replace candles with NGK brand. You need to adjust the ignition according to the manufacturer’s mark. To maintain the ignition angle, it is recommended to tighten the locking bolts to the maximum.

To obtain a stable and strengthen traction, changes are made to the design of the RMZ-640 in the form of installing a gear reducer with a gear ratio of 2.2 to 2.6 m, and the introduction of a two-blade propeller 1.65-1.8 m will not interfere. It is possible to use a three-blade type 1.45-1.6 m.

What is the difference between the original RMZ-640 engine and the Chinese one?

Engines of this type are assembled at the Russian Mechanics plant, pistons and rings are supplied to the motor manufacturer by the Czech Republic, as for needle bearings, these parts are produced by Japanese snowmobile specialists.

China has been producing various engine fakes for a long time and successfully supplying them to the Russian market, and Bosch has also paid attention to the heart of Buran. Such a purchase, of course, will save your budget, but overshadow it with constant breakdowns.

In order not to fall for the tricks of scammers when buying a Buran snowmobile, we will describe in detail below how the original mechanism is packed:

  • The original is sold only by dealers and no one else, so the engine must be in a cardboard box with the “RM” logo applied.
  • A logo with a production serial number is applied to the branded packaging.
  • In the technical passport offered to it, a number is indicated, which must exactly match the number stamped on the motor housing.
  • On the casing of the manual starter, the engine housing and the manual starter, there are brand marks in the form of three-dimensional letters “RM”.
  • If the RMZ-640 “Buran” was released after 02.2013, then it lacks the base located earlier under the original engine.

What operational difficulties are caused by the 640th RMZ engine?

The mechanism is designed and designed to work in the harsh Russian winter, which undoubtedly speaks of the quality, power and versatility of the engine we are considering, which is used on domestic snowmobiles of the Buran brand.

The undoubted advantage of the RMZ-640 engine is also the ability to repair it on its own, with minimal knowledge and the affordability of both the engine itself and its parts.

In general, the impressions of both specialists and ordinary owners are similar. a high-quality, reliable, and inexpensive engine, which, with proper care, will not let you down and will last for many years. We hope our article helped you!

The RMZ-640 engine was developed by the designers of the Russian Mechanics company specifically for the Buran snowmobile model line. RMZ-640 is a two-stroke, two-cylinder, carburetor engine with a crank-chamber purge and forced air cooling.

The engine is based on a crank mechanism, it helps to convert the rectilinear reciprocating movement of the pistons into rotation of the crankshaft. In this manual, we will describe all the gearbox parts separately and in more detail.

What parts does the crankshaft consist of??

The crankshaft has a 3-support configuration, its complete set includes: right and left trunnions, cheeks with a crank pin, middle shafts interconnected by pressed landings.

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Spare parts for lawn mowers and trimmers from China:
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Inner front cv joint for Chevrolet Lacetti

Brand Country of origin Original number Article number Model Price
Daewoo Korea FENOX
1202968 Nubira
1999-2003 g.
1350 rbl.
Chevrolet Korea Lynx
1780610 Lacetti
2003-2013 year.
2462 rbl.
GM Korea Ruville
834623 Nubira
1999-2003 g.
3700 rbl.
Torque China VN5805 735488 Nubira
1999-2003 g.
1040 rbl.
TSN Korea TSN 3.1.25 1098815 Daewoo 1260 rbl.

When buying an outer CV joint on the Lacetti, you should pay attention to the presence of an ABS sensor drive on the hinge housing. Usually the manufacturer indicates this in the description. In models before 2006, ABS was equipped as an additional option, and was not supplied on vehicles with a manual transmission. This element of the front suspension also has many analogues.

The choice of CV joints and oil seals on the Chevrolet Lacetti

The choice of new front suspension elements on the Chevrolet Lacetti is quite large, taking into account the analogs suitable for the series of the entire line of golf-class cars from GM. Many elements of the chassis went to the Lacetti from Opel, and until 2003 the brand itself bore the name Nubira and produced cars and components mainly for the American market.

When selecting, take into account the type of engine, the year of manufacture of the car, the type of gearbox. Any part can be selected by VIN, which encodes information on the parameters of spare parts.

CV joint and oil seals on the Chevrolet Lacetti

The design of drives on the Chevrolet Lacetti consists of two hinges with equal angular speeds of rotation, which are interconnected by shafts. They provide transmission torque from the gears of the gearbox to the wheels of the vehicle at speed with variable suspension travel and varying steering rod angles.

Two joints. CV joints, external and internal, are the main drive units, on which controllability, correct operation of the gearbox and tractive effort during acceleration depend. A knock while driving, a beating in the steering wheel when turning is a likely sign of a malfunction of one of the CV joints. It is possible to determine a faulty joint on a suspended wheel by lifting the front of the car on a jack and shaking the shaft. if the CV joint is faulty, a strong backlash will be noticeable. A sure sign of a worn CV joint is a damaged protective boot with traces, grease smudges.

Faults in the front suspension CV joint lead to accidents on the road. A jammed hinge leads to locking of the wheels while driving, and at high speed, a locked wheel can simply pull out together with the hub.

Removing the inner CV joint and replacing the oil seals

The removed shaft with the hinges of the front wheel must be clamped in a vice, having previously installed soft metal pads so as not to damage the shanks.

  • First, the retaining ring is removed, which must be pry off with a screwdriver. The fastening clamps on the protective cover are cut off (their reuse is unacceptable), the locks are unclenched and the cover is removed.
  • Next, you need to unclench the second retaining ring in the hinge holder, after which the inner CV joint is removed from the shaft.
  • If the whole set is changed, then the hinge is installed in the reverse order, when replacing the oil seal and the boot, it is necessary to remove the grease, rinse the clip with balls and a separator with kerosene, blow with air and dry. The old oil seal, together with the boot, are removed by prying them out of the seat with a screwdriver. After inspecting the cavity of the hinge body for corrosion, chips, cracks, apply a small amount of grease and put a new oil seal in place.
  • The new oil seal should fit into the socket with little effort; it is better to use a special tool to press it in. If there is no such tool, then you can use a pipe cut with a diameter of 52-54 mm. In order not to damage the gland surface during pressing, the pipe edges must be laid with a cloth or rag. After installing the oil seal, the inner CV joint housing is clogged with CV joint grease.

Removing the drive and replacing the CV joints

To remove the drive on a Chevrolet Lacetti, you will need a tool: two keys 14, an end adapter 32, pliers, a chisel, a large slotted screwdriver, a hammer. Before operation, the transmission oil must be drained from the transmission. The front of the vehicle is raised and secured to a jack. Inner and outer cv joints are supplied complete with fastening clamps, retaining rings and a new protective cover and a tube of special grease.

  • Remove the wheel from the side of the faulty CV joint.
  • The fastening collar on the central nut of the hub must be bent at the edges with a screwdriver.
  • Unscrew the hub nut, pull out the retaining washer and hang out the entire assembly.
  • Remove the brake hose coupling together with the bracket.
  • The steering knuckle and ball joint must be swiveled to the side by lowering the front-drive shock absorber.
  • Hang up the drive and carefully knock out the shank of the outer CV joint with a chisel from the hole in the hub.
  • Disconnect Tie Rod and ABS Sensor Harness.
  • Remove the large clamp with a screwdriver, move the protective boot and remove the outer hinge from the shaft end.
  • We dismantle the inner hinge in the same way, picking up the small fastening clamp with a screwdriver and pushing the rubber boot.
  • Move the shaft with an internal CV joint to the side.
  • The axle shaft drive can be removed together with the hinges.
  • Before installing a new grenade (outer and outer cv joints), it is necessary to completely fill the working unit with special cv joint grease.
  • When installing a new CV joint, it is also recommended to replace the fastening bolts.

The actuator with the new joint must move freely in all angular positions with little effort without backlash. When installing the shank of the CV joint shaft, make sure that it fits correctly relative to the gear in the gearbox. Before mounting on a mechanical box, the gear lever is placed in the “neutral” position. During operation, the CV joints do not need maintenance, additional lubrication or its replacement. they only monitor the condition of the oil seal, protective cover and its fasteners.

Drive device

A. shaft on the right wheel

B. shaft on the left wheel

  • Stopper rings.
  • Inner CV joint housing.
  • Fastening clamp for the protective boot of the inner CV joint.
  • Protective cover for inner CV joint.
  • Inner CV joint protection retaining ring.
  • Right wheel drive shaft.
  • Damper assembly retaining ring.
  • Damper mechanism.
  • Fastening clamp for the protective boot of the outer CV joint.
  • Protective cover for outer CV joint.
  • Outer CV joint protection retaining ring.
  • Outer CV joint housing.
  • Left wheel drive shaft.

The cv joints are attached to the shafts by means of splines that are attached to the ends of the shafts. The right-hand shaft is long with a damper mechanism installed on it. The end of the shaft with the housing of the inner hinge is brought out to the gear wheel, the second end of the outer hinge goes to the wheel hub. Both CV joints have the same angular velocity and a typical collapsible design, they can be interchanged (from the left wheel to the right).

The working unit of the inner and outer hinges is completely sealed, filled with special joint grease and protected by a boot, a cover with fastening clamps in the bases of the housings and the shaft. Worn parts of the hinge cannot be repaired. in the event of a breakdown, the entire mechanism changes, complete with protective covers, anthers and fastening rings (clamps). The base of the outer CV joint housing has a gear train that allows the ABS (anti-lock brake system) sensor to work.

Outer front CV joint for Chevrolet Lacetti

Brand Country of origin Original number Article number Model Price
2011151 Chevrolet
2003-2013 year.
760 rbl.
Torque China VN5431 1074010 Lacetti
2003-2013 year.
1170 rbl.
Daewoo Korea DW11 1903950 DW
2003-2013 year.
1140 rbl.
CV16082 2462438 Lacetti
2003-2013 year.
1200 rbl.
GM Korea CO1814 910527 Lynx
2003-2013 year.
1380 rbl.

The wear of the drive oil seals leads to depressurization of the housing and the destruction of the entire CV joint assembly. The reason for the rapid wear, as a rule, is the operating conditions and strong temperature fluctuations in winter. The rubber (silicone or composite) insert in the gland sleeve loses its elasticity, cracks and breaks down due to heavy loads on uneven roads. It is possible to find out the damaged CV joint seal by visual inspection by removing the protective cover of the hinge. The oil seal is replaced with a boot, a cover and clamps.

Among the analogues of the Lacetti drive oil seals, there are many Chinese counterfeit fakes, therefore, when choosing, it is necessary to correctly read all information about the manufacturer.