How to change the brushes on an angle grinder Interskol

Angle Grinder

What are made of

Brushes for angle grinder and other power tools are made of different materials, but the main ones are carbon and graphite. This particular material has a low coefficient of friction and also has a higher abrasion resistance. To improve the contact, different impurities are added to the graphite or carbon in the manufacture of brushes. Depending on the impurities used, there are the following types of brushes:

The composition of the core not only affects service life or wear, but also the sparking behavior. The extent of arcing depends on the composition of the brushes. When buying them, you need to pay attention to the composition, and do not buy tooling of unknown origin and of dubious quality.

This is interesting!There is a ceramic tip in the construction of the brushes, which performs one of the important tasks. When the graphite layer is worn to the limit, the tip starts to contact with the copper lamellae of the collector. Ceramics do not conduct electricity, so an angle grinder with abrasion brushes will work intermittently or will not turn on at all until the devices are replaced.

Brush replacement on angle grinder

Angle grinder (or as it is also called “angle grinder”). an indispensable and in-demand tool in the work of the master. Like any other, it is subject to natural wear and tear. In the process of using the tool, various breakdowns occur, and one of the most common is sparking brushes on the angle grinder. In this article, the master plumber will tell you why the brushes on the angle grinder spark, as well as why they burn out and how they are replaced.

Before you can figure out the causes of sparking brushes on an angle grinder, you need to understand their purpose. Collector brushes are used not only in the construction of angle grinders, but also in the construction of all modern power tools. drills, torches, jigsaws, etc.

In the design of the angle grinder and other power tools are used 2 brushes, which have a simple design.

This design is based on the following elements:

  • The main part. has a rectangular shape, and is made of carbon or graphite;
  • The contact is a wire strand of appropriate diameter through which electrical current flows. The contact connects the wire to the graphite part;
  • The spring is the mechanism that holds the main part against the collector. There may be no spring on the element, and this indicates that such a brush is designed for installation in power tools, where the brush holders have a built-in clamping mechanism in the form of a curved plate.

The devices are designed to transmit electrical current to the rotor of the angle grinder.

The voltage drawn from the stator is applied to the rotor, which is reproduced by the carbon brushes and the collector. It is the power supply to the collector that makes the collector rotate.

As the rotor rotates, the devices make contact with the collector (copper lamellas. armature winding leads), thus ensuring that the electric current flows continuously.

The devices wear out during use, so they are classified as consumables. The service life of the brushes depends not only on the service life of the power tool, but also on the materials from which they are made. Not only is brush wear influenced mechanically by friction, but also thermally. Electric current flowing through a conductor causes it to heat up. the higher the amperage, the higher the heating temperature. When current flows through the graphite brushes, they also become hot. The higher the load on the power tool, the higher the current and therefore the higher the temperature, which adversely affects the integrity of the consumables.

Brushes for angle grinder and other power tools are made from different materials, but the main ones are carbon and graphite. This material has a low coefficient of friction and also has a high abrasion resistance. To improve contact, different impurities are added to graphite or carbon in the manufacture of brushes. Depending on the impurities used, the following types of brushes are distinguished:

The composition of the main part affects not only durability or wear, but also such a parameter as signs of arcing. The sparking level of the brushes depends on the composition from which they are made. When buying them you should pay attention to their composition and not buy equipment of unknown origin and dubious quality.

The following are the reasons for the sparking of the brushes on the grinders:

  • An armature winding malfunction. If there is a fault in the armature winding insulation, it will eventually lead to an inter-turn fault, and a short circuit with the core. In addition, a winding breakage may occur, which will eventually cause an increase in the load. A hallmark of armature winding failure is a decrease in speed, an increase in noise and a drop in power;
  • Brushes are not pressed well against the collector. The main part is clamped by the spring, which loses its original springiness over time;
  • The rotor winding is torn from the copper plate of the collector. this phenomenon is very rare, but when overloading the power tool, it may well occur;
  • The armature of the electric motor is misaligned, resulting in severe brush arcing on the angle grinder;
  • The shape of the collector is defective. The manifold, consisting of copper lamellas, is cylindrical in shape, which can be disturbed when the rotor is rewound. The slightest deformation in the shape of the collector will cause arcing of the brushesCollector of an electric motor;
  • Isolation between the lamellae on the collector is broken. Each collector plate is insulated to each other, and if the micanite insulating layer is broken, arcing will occur. The insulation between the plates can also be compromised by the settling of the graphite layer in the slots;
  • If armature bearings are worn. If the bearings are faulty, then the rotating armature will run out and as a consequence, signs of arcing will occur;
  • Rotor shaft warping. It is difficult to bend it, but if it does, the motor begins to run with a load. To keep the tool from failing, it is recommended that the rotor be replaced;
  • If the armature winding ends are incorrectly brazed to the copper collector plates. Such errors are not allowed in the factory, but they can be made by the winder who rewinds the armature of the power tool;
  • Unsuitable composition of graphite brushes. The parts in question are made of carbon and graphite with the addition of various admixtures. This is done for a reason, but in order to use the brushes depending on the voltage and speed of the shaft. Graphite can be either soft or hard. The lower the voltage, the softer the graphite grade is selected. For high-voltage power tools, you must take hard brushes that have no copper in their composition;
  • deformation of the lamellae due to heat. If an angle grinder is subjected to excessive loads, one or more of the lamellae on the collector may be deformed. Plates are raised relative to the rest, resulting in poor contact. This fault causes brushes to spark strongly when the power tool is runningDamage to the angle grinder’s manifold;
  • Poor contact at brush connection. If the terminal is loosely connected to the device, the result of this contact disturbance can manifest itself as excessive sparking;
  • Carbon deposits on the copper fins. periodically or regularly cleaning the surface of the copper fins from carbon deposits is recommended. Fouling is usually caused by worn brushes, so if you see blackening on the surface of the collector, wipe it down with alcohol.

In addition to sparking, often the owners of power tools are faced with the fact that the brushes on the angle grinder burn. What makes this phenomenon different from sparking is the rapid wear and tear of the main part of the element. After the installation of new elements, they are already worn out during the first use of the power tool.

The main reason is hidden not in the brushes, but in the collector. If the lamellas fall out or wear out on the manifolds, it increases the load. This load is experienced by the graphite elements, which, when the angle grinder is turned on, begin to wear quickly. this process of accelerated wear is called burn-in. Elements are literally burning because of the large current flowing. Many people call this process abrasion, but in reality, brushes can’t abrade quickly due to mechanical stress. This is caused by excessive sparking, which causes the graphite to simply burn out.

Reasons why brushes on an angle grinder burn are as follows:

  • Loss or wear of the copper fins on the collector.
  • Inter-twist short circuits between the lamellae or the rotor winding. contributes to an increase in current, which heats up the brushes and starts to burn. To determine the cause, you need to test the armature
  • If the power tool is heavily overloaded. if you operate the angle grinder for a long time without interruption, then the result of such use will manifest itself as the burning of brushes for 5-10 seconds.

There is also such a thing as a circular fire. This occurs when the armature current is surged, i.e., overloaded, shorted or under-voltage. Circular fire occurs when the arc is repeatedly ignited. Increased loads and even short circuits occur when using an angle grinder for wood sawing. When processing wood, the cutting disk is clamped, thereby increasing the current by 15-25 times of the nominal. The manifold is the most common cause of element burnout, so if you had to change 2 or 3 pairs of brushes in a month, it is time to make a diagnosis of the power tool.

Many people change brushes only after they find a strong sparking of the tool, as well as the appearance of a smell of burning. Many craftsmen are not stopped even by these signs, and they continue to operate the tool until it no longer turns on. When is it necessary to change the carbon brushes, so as not to damage the device of the power tool. There are the following signs for this:

  • Strong arcing. if you see signs of strong arcing, you should disassemble the tool and inspect the consumables. Sparks are the first indication that the consumables need to be replaced;
  • The appearance of the smell of burning. if you can hear the smell of carbon deposits in the work of the tool, then it is recommended to disassemble the angle grinder and replace the graphite brushes;
  • If the main part is worn out over 30%-40%. However, it is almost impossible to determine their initial length unless you measure them before installing the elements;
  • If there are signs such as jerking and “growling” of the power tool.

The devices must also be replaced if they are worn unevenly or are of inadequate quality.

When replacing brushes, as with any penetration inside the power tool, the power supply should be switched off by pulling the plug out of the socket.

Angle grinder brushes can be replaced without disassembling the housing

Some manufacturers have approached the possibility of replacing the brushes very rationally. There are screwed plugs in the machine housing. And the whole process of checking or “repairing” takes two minutes (for both graphite contacts):

  • If the brush has lost 70% to 80% of its length compared to a new one, it is worth replacing it. Otherwise, the old graphite contact should be placed with the same side as it was before it was removed to eliminate the lapping process. The brushes wear unevenly because they are in contact with the rotating cylindrical surface;

This is the easiest way to replace the brushes on an angle grinder and does not involve disassembling the housing. Therefore, when selecting a new angle grinder, this nuance can be taken into account.

Replacing brushes on angle grinder without backhandle

For angle grinders without a back handle, the brushes are replaced in the following sequence:

  • Insert the new brush, close the contact assembly with the cover;
  • Repeat all steps with the other brush;
  • Put the hood on the angle grinder and secure it with a self-tapping screw.

Sometimes there is another way of attaching the brushes

In this case, the sequence of operations will be as follows:

  • Connect the contact of the new graphite rod to the connector, insert the brush into the guide block and press down with the spring;
  • Repeat all the steps with the second brush, close the housing with the cover and screw it on with a self-tapping screw.

These are the two most common ways to replace the graphite contacts.

change, brushes, angle, grinder

Brush replacement on a back-handled angle grinder

Angle grinders that have a back handle allow you to get to the brushes in a slightly different, simpler way:

  • Near the handle, you need to find a small repair window, closed by a plastic plate, which is fixed with a bolt;
  • It is necessary to unscrew the self-drilling screw, pick up the plastic plate with a screwdriver in the groove, remove it from the housing, opening the repair window;
  • The following steps for replacing the brushes are the same as for the low-powered sawblades: release the band spring (1), release the plug (2), remove the brush from the guide block by the wire;
  • Then insert the new brush, connect the plugs, secure the graphite rod with a ribbon spring, cover the repair window with plastic and screw the bolt on;
  • Repeat all steps with the second brush, located on the opposite side of the housing.

It is quite possible that there may be other ways to replace the graphite brushes, due to the design features of the grinder.

In the plot. What happens if you don’t change the brushes on the angle grinder

In the story. Why do brushes burn, spark on the angle grinder, what are the causes of malfunctioning?

Structurally, angle grinders differ from each other, so the method of replacing brushes may differ slightly from the basic ways described above. But the common features can still be seen:

  • The brushes are near the back handle or the part of the housing that is designed to hold the tool.
  • The most common designs of graphite brushes: with or without springs.

The first type of construction involves a simplified method of replacement, because it has both a wire, a contact plate and a pressure spring.

HOW TO CHANGE CARBON BRUSH OF ANGLE GRINDER (with subtitle/CC) / GWS 7-100 T / GWS 7-100T

Springless brushes require a little more time consuming process of changing, because the fixing the spring is attached to the housing and it is more rigid, and the wire is attached in a separate place with a plug.

Copper graphite brushes

Brand Hardness The specific electrical resistance, (μOhm meter) Friction coefficient. not more Current density. (А/cm2 ) not more Nominal brush pressure. (kPa) Linear Speed. ( m / s) not more
Electric brushes

Interskol (electric screwdriver 18V) brush replacement

maniakmtb

Hello. Bought myself an electric screwdriver Interskol DA-18ER used. When tested at home at first I felt a strange odor, and then the smoke that came out of the screwdriver. Disassembled, connected the battery, pressed the button, and saw that the brushes are very strong sparking, and if you continue to press the button there is something that starts to burn. Disassembled the motor. Brushes are really worn out. And one is wiped out more than the other. They seem to be the problem. If so, where can I buy them?? Dimensions: long. 5.5mm width-3.8mm At the attachment point, length 2.8mm Height of the narrowed section 2.4mm brushes without guides.

There is a similar motor from the jigsaw, you can certainly get out of it, but sorry engine.May come in handy.

Brushes on angle grinder

Before you find out the causes of arcing brushes on the angle grinder, you need to understand their purpose. Collector brushes are used not only in the construction of angle grinders, but also in the design of all modern power tools. drills, peorators, jigsaws, etc. In the construction of angle grinders and other power tools 2 brushes are used, which have a simple design. This design is based on the following elements:

  • The main part is rectangular in shape and made of carbon or graphite
  • The contact is a strand of wire of appropriate diameter through which the electric current flows. The contact connects the wire to the graphite part
  • The spring is the mechanism that holds the main part against the collector. There may be no spring on the element, indicating that this brush is designed for installation in power tools, where brush holders have a built-in clamping mechanism in the form of a curved plate

The devices are designed to transmit the electric current to the rotor of the power tool. The voltage drawn from the stator is applied to the rotor, which is reproduced by the carbon brushes and the collector. The current supply to the collector ensures its rotation. As the rotor rotates, the devices make contact with the collector (copper lamellas. armature winding leads), thus ensuring that the electric current flows continuously.

In the process of using the devices is their abrasion, so they belong to the category of consumables. The service life of the brushes depends not only on the service life of the power tool, but also on the materials of which they are made. Not only the mechanical influence of friction force, but also thermal influence influences the wear of brushes. Electric current when passing through a conductor causes it to heat. The higher the amperage value, the higher the heating temperature. When current flows through the graphite brushes, they also heat up. The higher the load on the power tool, the higher the current, and therefore the temperature increases, which negatively affects the integrity of consumables.

How to check the rotor for proper functioning

The scope of repair work allows you to find a correct diagnosis of damage to the rotor. Specificity of formation of defects, which in most cases appear at overheating of angle grinder during long-term work with high loads, you can find them visually. Burned electronic insulation leaves charring marks on shattered coils or collector ribs. Broken wires, blown manifold lamellas can also be seen with close visual inspection.

If the visual inspection does not reveal any faults or if there are doubts, the electronic circuit breakage is diagnosed with the following devices. A housing breakdown or wire breakage can be found with a multimeter, but a short circuit can also be found. Use a short-circuited winding indicator or a special device to check for short-circuited turns.

How to change

Regardless of the model, the bearing replacement is not much different from each other. Adjusting the repair technology is related to the peculiarities of the design, which each brand has.

Bosch

The following video describes how to replace the bearings in the gearbox of a Bosch model, which has a large backlash on the spindle. Here the main actuator, which creates the pressing/seizing forces, is an ordinary locksmith’s vise. The use of various overlays in the form of appropriately sized tubes and similar parts makes it possible to transfer forces to the desired location on the structure through the movement of the vise jaws. Some operations can be performed with the help of extensions and light hammering.

Read more: Toyota ABS Trouble Codes

The peculiarity of the design is the plastic filled flange. To press out/press the flange bearing, the author used a knife and a torch to remove the plastic that got in the way. It is possible, with the skills of a turner, to simply cut this material on the machine.

Makita

One Makita describes how to replace bearings without using special tools, using any available hand tools. The base surfaces are hardwood planks that take the load of various operations with force.

Metal sheets of suitable thickness and sockets (suitable pipes can be used) are used as tooling when knocking out bearings. Shaft alignment holes serve as a base for a sharpened rod (in the video an old screwdriver) that can be used to loosen the shaft itself. The only industrially manufactured tool is the circlip puller, although you can figure out how to remove it using improvised means even without it.

Interskol

Some bearing designs are made without interference fits. In the following video, for example, the ball bearing in the gear housing cover of an Interskol model is assembled into a support structure using a washer and screwed together. The surface of the washer is coated with an adhesive compound for better adhesion to the body plane.

Hitachi

Some bearing designs at first sight exclude the direct replacement of the bearing itself which is part of such a unit. However the author of the following video found the way how to do it in one of Hitachi models and thus saved a decent amount of money.

change, brushes, angle, grinder

To fix the bearing unit in the drill, a wood bit was suitable, in the inner surface of which one of its outside diameter is firmly seated. With the drill running, use a sharp object to remove the plastic material to the size of the bearing outer ring. Nothing prevents the bearing from being removed with a hammer and extension piece.

Then when you assemble a new bearing you put a ring instead of plastic (in the video it’s probably made of caprolon or something similar). Since the ring in the video has a thick wall not allowing to perform pinion assembly according to specifications, using a chisel its inner diameter is adjusted to the required size.

Sparky

In the following video, one of the Sparky brand angle grinder models failed. To determine the cause of the failure, the author made a complete disassembly of the angle grinder with washing and cleaning of all parts. This video did not cover the disassembly in detail. This technological operation can be viewed in the article “How to Disassemble the Gearbox”.

After analyzing the state of the nodes and parts, it turned out that the cause of failure of the angle grinder was the front bearing of the rotor. It was easily replaced with a new one, which was inserted into the gear housing without tension and secured with a washer and threaded screws. Service life of the angle grinder Sparky from the video. 15 years, so we can not exclude the emergence of other defects and the author correctly concludes the purchase of a new angle grinder.

How to remove the bearing from the armature of a power tool: some sensible tips

Now many craftsmen at home and professional masters have a whole arsenal of power tools, which help to cope with domestic not repair and construction tasks. Peoratorov, jigsaws, angle grinder, drills. they greatly simplify not accelerate the work. But it happens that the power tool burns. You should not rush to send it to the trash because of this. Because of the saturated exploitation of the details wear out, respectively equipment is not able to work in normal mode. If you know how to remove the bearing from the armature of an electric tool, it is natural to prolong the life of your own “helper”. Timely replacement is not grease parts can operate the device for a longer period.

The main task of a power tool motor. it’s rotation. Anchor is the main part of the device that makes the working mechanism rotate. The service life of the part depends on the capacity, not the rotation frequency, in addition to the activity of implementation of the equipment. To reduce friction in the time of movement of the parts, bearings are needed. They ensure the smooth rotation and do not ennoble the working mechanism of the power tool. If the bearings are not lubricated at the right time, their service life is considerably prolonged.

The wide occurrence implies simply entering a substring with the name of the product: The results are relevant to the query “608”: AXK 6085 bearing (CX) EGB0608-E40 bearing (INA) CRBS 608 A UU bearing (IKO)

This type of input assumes a space before the query string, to search for modifications of some series. The results are relevant to the query “608”: AXK 6085 (CX) bearing CRBS 608 A UU (IKO) Bearing EGB0608-E40 (INA)

This type of occurrence involves a space before and after the query string to find ONLY the exact occurrence of the series The query “608” is relevant to the results: CRBS 608 A UU Bearing (IKO) SV 608 ZZST Bearing (KOYO) But not listed EGB0608-E40 Bearing (INA) AXK 6085 Bearing (CX)

Checking and repairing the angle grinder armature

What a careful homeowner wants to see in his “luggage” of power tools? To this question, everyone, without hesitating for a second, will answer. a drill. And immediately add. and, of course, angle grinder! After all, it will help cut metal, ceramic, brick, concrete, asphalt, stone or wood; perform work on the arrangement of niches, arched and doorways. With this power tool it is possible to clean surfaces from rust, scorch marks and encrustations; get rid of welds or simply polish metal to a shine. angle grinder will be an indispensable helper in other types of home repair.

What would not have been an angle grinder (angle grinder) reliable design, during operation, some of the nodes and parts fail. Breakdown of the armature, which operates in rather harsh conditions, is often the reason for the lack of normal functioning of the electric drive. In this article, the master plumber will consider how to repair or replace the armature of the angle grinder.

Anchor motor of angle grinder is a current-conducting coil and magnetic wire, in which the shaft of rotation is pressed. It has a pinion at one end and a collector with lamellae at the other. The magnetic wire consists of grooves and soft plates coated with varnish to isolate it from each other.

Two conductors of the anchor winding are placed in the grooves according to a special scheme. Each conductor is half a coil, the ends of which are connected in pairs on the lamellae. The beginning of the first turn and the end of the last turn are in the same groove, so they are closed to one lamella.

When you buy a power tool, you don’t think about the possibility that it will fail one day. Breakdowns can happen with any power tool, regardless of price or manufacturer.

  • Breakage of conductors.
  • Intertwist Circuits.
  • Insulation breakdown to earth means a short circuit of the winding to the metal body of the rotor. Isolation breakdown occurs.
  • Collector terminals unsoldered.
  • Uneven wear and tear on the collector.

The main causes of breakdowns of bolsters, including their anchors, can be considered:

  • Mechanical wear. brushes suffer most often.
  • Failure to comply with operating “rating”. armature and stator.
  • Overloads and power surges. stator and rotor.
  • Failure of small parts. bearings, retainers, nuts, washers, etc.
  • Dropping, knocking or other rough handling of the angle grinder. housing breakage.
  • Lack of preventive cleaning. gearbox malfunctions or broken on/off button./off.

If the armature is defective, the motor overheats, the winding insulation melts and the turns are short-circuited. Contacts that connect the armature winding with the collector plates are soldered off. Current flow stops and motor stops working.

Proper diagnosis of rotor damage can determine the scope of repair work. The specifics of the formation of defects, which most appear when the angle grinder overheats during prolonged work at high loads, allows you to determine them visually.

Standard diagnostics involve a visual analysis of the device. You should analyze the continuity of the wire and the current flow to the motor collector. Inspect the angle grinder from the inside if the power supply is normal. It should not be too difficult to disassemble the unit. It is best to photograph the location of the main unit modules as you disassemble it. After disassembly, conduct a visual inspection of the armature for such properties:

  • The stroke of the armature should be free;
  • Absence of black spots and odor, which may indicate a melted winding, whose insulating varnish leaves traces;
  • Absence of crumpled coils and solder residue, which leads to short circuits;
  • There must be no burnout on the lamella contacts, otherwise check the binding of the lamella cock and the winding busbar;
  • No worn or burned out plates
  • The space between the lamellae must not contain graphite residues from the brushes.

If no defects are found during visual inspection, it is necessary to check with the test probes. Anchor on the angle grinder can be checked both with a tester and an ordinary light bulb.

Set multimeter to ohmmeter position. Set resistance to 200 Ohm. The probes are connected to the lamellae that are next to each other. If the value on the device is less than 1 ohm, there is a short circuit. At a value greater than the average value there can be a breakage of coils. If the resistance value is high or if there is no value (in the case of a digital instrument), a breakage can also be judged.

There are situations, when the breakage is not detected. Then a ground fault could be detected. At maximum resistance place one of the feeler gauges on the shaft and the other on the plates. If the value is zero, there is no fault. Then use a multimeter to check the rotor in the same way. In this case the probe is moved along the lamellae. If the tester can’t be used to check it a light bulb is used.

In the story. How to Test an Angle Grinder Armature

In the story. Checking the collector motor armature with an ohmmeter

In the absence of a device at hand, many are interested in the question of how to check the angle grinder for possible damage to the armature. The power supply wire is broken, and a light bulb is placed in the place where one wire is broken. Then the shaft rotates. A short circuit between the coils can be judged by the change in brightness of the light bulb. If there is no combustion, the following conclusions are possible:

  • The position of the brushes does not correspond to the working position, due to a retaining spring being triggered;
  • Feed circuit breakage;
  • Short circuit or breakage in the stator winding.

You can test it with an indicator of short-circuited coils and an anchor checker. This can be done by an experienced person.

In the story. Checking armature and stator with a light bulb

Repair the armature of an angle grinder can not be done if there is vibration, because the balance is disturbed. This situation requires a replacement. It is possible to remove the short circuit and replace the winding.

First you need to disassemble the motor and take out the rotor. But before doing so, disconnect the power terminals and remove the brushes. The rotor of the angle grinder is taken out together with the bearing and impeller for cooling.

Anchors for bolsters (angle grinder) lend themselves to rewinding at home. To do this, you need to have certain skills when working with a soldering iron. To perform armature rewinding with your own hands, you will need:

  • A wire with a copper core that matches the previous conductor;
  • Dielectric paper to insulate the winding;
  • Coil filler varnish;
  • Soldering iron.

It is important before you start winding the armature to count the number of turns in the old winding and perform the same number on the new spool.

  • Removing previous windings. take care not to mar the surface of the case. If there is damage, grind with an emery or file;
  • Inspection of the collector. the value of resistance of contacts lamella in comparison with the shell should not exceed 0.25 Mohm;
  • Cleaning the collector from old wires. development of slots for inserting the ends of new wires;
  • Placing the sleeves. they are made of a material that does not conduct current, such as electrical cardboard. Their size is 0.3 mm;
  • Rewinding the coils. the end of the new wire is attached to the end of the lamella. Rewind in counterclockwise direction. Secure the wires near the manifold with cotton thread;
  • Check for the absence of short circuits. measure the resistance with a tester;
  • Apply varnish or epoxy to secure the winding. dry it in the oven or use products that dry quickly.

If such an action fails, the angle grinder armature can be replaced.

Anchor replacement on angle grinder is performed at the same time with replacement of support bearings and motor cooling impeller. The following tools will be required for the performance:

  • Removing brushes;
  • Unscrewing the gearbox;
  • Removing gear cover;
  • Removing the ring that secures the small gear to the anchor;
  • Removing the armature together with the pinion and bearing;
  • Removal of the bearing with a special removal tool;
  • Removing the pinion and the retainer disk;
  • Wiping the main elements with a cloth.

Installing the new part for the grinder is done in reverse order:

  • Inserting the locking disk onto the shaft;
  • Pressing in the bearing;
  • Installing the small gear and securing it with a retaining ring;
  • Placing the armature in the gearbox with the holes docked;
  • Securing the gearbox in the body of the angle grinder;
  • Inserting the brushes;
  • Checking Device.

So, the armature repair with your own hands can be done quickly and easily. But to avoid such cases, to use the device carefully and not subjected to prolonged high loads. The tool in a dry place and the necessary care will prolong its life.