How to check a spark on a chainsaw candle

What to do?

It is important that there may be no spark on the chainsaw due to a malfunction of the fuel system. In order not to look for a problem in a working ignition, this issue must be dealt with immediately.

How to check for Spark Plug Fire (in any engine)

The carburetor of the chainsaw can “overflow”, that is, throw too much fuel into the combustion chamber. Inside the candle there is a porcelain insulator from which a metal core emerges. On it, under the plate, they contact the “mass” (minus) and a spark arises. We also recommend reading an article about setting up a carburetor on a chainsaw with your own hands. If a gasoline saw starts up and stalls, read here. If it does not start at all, then here.

If the space inside the plug between the round insulator and the ground is filled with excess fuel, especially together with conductive pollution, a short (spark) can slip inside the plug. There will be no spark where it is needed.

However, if there is no spark on the chainsaw, the fuel does not burn, and the spark plug simply must be wet with fuel when the carburetor is running. It is practically impossible to determine visually whether the candle is overly flooded and therefore there is no spark, or not excessively. Therefore, for an accurate diagnosis of this “nodal moment” (the carburetor or ignition is faulty), you need to have at hand 2-3 guaranteed serviceable candles.

  • A working candle is put.
  • Spark is tested.

If there is a spark, it means one of two things:

The working candle is screwed into place, the engine is tried to start. If it started working normally, the problem is resolved. If not, turn the candle inside out again and watch the spark. There is no spark. put the next dry working candle.

There is a spark, they put the candle in place, try to start it. If it does not start again, turn the candle inside out, watch the spark. If the spark on the chainsaw disappears again, and the spark plug is flooded, there is almost a 100% chance that the cause is fuel overflow. If you are faced with such a situation, then we recommend reading the article, which describes in detail for what reasons he pours a candle on a chainsaw and what to do.

How to make sure there is really no spark?

To make sure there is a spark on the chainsaw or not, you need to follow a simple procedure:

  • Removing the top cover on the case.
  • Carefully, with a grip at the very bottom, so as not to tear off the candle wire, the cap is removed from the candle.

To ensure reliable contact, the candle is pressed against the cylinder with electric pliers, a screwdriver with insulated handles, or with a hand with dielectric gloves. You should not do this with your bare hand. If the cap breaks down, you can get a painful shock from a high-voltage discharge (up to 40,000 V at a low current strength of up to 80 milliamperes).

Place the chainsaw on the ground, press it with your foot on the ground, and lightly pull on the starter cord. At this time, it will be seen whether there is a spark or not.

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There is no spark on the central armor wire.

Help people, I can not open a topic I will write here. Auto VAZ 2106 There is no spark from the central armor of the wire from the coil, including the ignition, another person checks the spark with a wire, it is not there: (((the ignition works fine, the starter turns perfectly there is no spark, I myself could not figure it out called the auto electrician you drunk came with a distributor, a spark appeared only now the candles flooded, the candles unscrewed the glow came, this drunk and could not come and did not, without him he put the candles on trying to start a fig, looked again the spark is not there ”Oh my God” I don’t know what to do, another auto electrician call.

Contact ignition as I understand it? If so, then the gap in the contacts on the distributor under the slider, look and it does not interfere with cleaning them with a coin, make the correct gap and everything will appear. And if the contactless thing is in the switch, most likely, only there it breaks immediately and forever usually.

Check the contacts, the capacitor, the slider, the tramler cover, the commutator, the babin and it will be happy))) Look for the slider spinning, otherwise the fungus may have been cut off.

affirmative tips for a beginner. sales I figs Th understood. but I don’t rummage in contact tramlers (and there apparently he is, because in a contactless one there is simply nothing for a drunk electrician to do inside. (If the hall sensor is dead, you cannot revive it by cleaning.)). at least put some pictures to him, where are these contacts, and where is the air conditioner.

Photo of the distributor?))) Yes, there are a lot of pipetski complex details)))

And from his question, except about the drunk electrician, what did you understand? :))

Photo of the distributor?))) Yes, there are a lot of pipetski complex details)))

And from his question, except about the drunk electrician, what did you understand? :))

Well, as a BE, I’m not entirely new to cars, but I haven’t seen a contact tramler in my eyes. Of course, I know that there are contacts, cams, that it is necessary to clean, that the air conditioner should be changed, but where it is all in the shower, I don’t know. maximum I can look at the slider.

It is not clear how the presence of the absence of a spark on the CPU was established, this is from the coil to the distributor.

as well as the absence of a spark on a candle. I checked the wires from the BB directly to the case.

Last edited by GRom 22rus; 11/26/2012 at 06:29.

Trambler is popularly called a breaker. distributor or sensor. distributor, depending on the ignition system. The distributor is intended for switching the ignition coil (giving a signal to the switch) and distributing the spark to the spark plugs. The device of the distributor of the contact and contactless ignition systems is the same. The main components are a breaker or a sensor and a valve. The interrupter is designed to switch the ignition coil during contact ignition and serves as a sensor during contact transistor ignition. The device of the distributor of the VAZ 2101-07 car is shown in the figure. The design of the breaker and the sensor is identical. The only difference between the distributor device is the presence of contacts or a sensor. The breaker consists of a housing, a shaft, a movable contact plate, a vacuum octane corrector, a capacitor. The shaft consists of two parts. Depending on the design, cams are located on the upper or lower part, the number of which is equal to the number of cylinders. The shaft consists of two parts. Depending on the design, cams are located on the upper or lower part, the number of which is equal to the number of cylinders. The parts of the shaft are movably interconnected through a centrifugal octane corrector, which consists of cams and springs of different stiffness. When the shaft rotates, the cams diverge under the action of centrifugal force, stretching the springs and turning the upper part relative to the lower one by a certain angle. The vacuum octane corrector is connected by a rod with a movable contact plate and a tube with an intake manifold. When the throttle valve is opened, the vacuum in the intake manifold will increase, which leads to the rotation of the movable contact plate with contacts relative to the cams. To reduce sparking and increase the secondary voltage, a capacitor is attached to the distributor housing, connected in parallel to the contacts in the circuit. A slider (rotor) is attached to the upper part of the shaft, which serves to distribute high voltage to the spark plugs through the terminals of the distributor cover.

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How to Checking for Spark on Stihl Chainsaw Using Spark Plug and Scrench in the field.

There is nothing particularly complicated in the contact system High voltage current (spark) is formed when the low voltage circuit of the coil is broken Here are the contacts and break this low circuit Therefore, you need to check whether they close at all or may not open. contact Do not close. very large gap set

Common mistakes during diagnostics

Most people, due to ignorance of the device of the VAZ 2110 injector machine, make many mistakes in the process of troubleshooting.

  • Many people make a common mistake: when they see that there is no spark, they want to test it for breaks. For this purpose, they place the wire close to the mass of the machine. But when doing such actions, the ignition module may break down, so in no case should this be done;
  • Another problem is checking the spark discharge. If you place the spark plugs on the motor housing, a large induction current can be generated. This happens even due to the small contact of the spark plug with ground, as a result of which the controller can also be damaged. Therefore, it is necessary to use a spark gap that will not allow the distribution of ignition with the same high voltage supply to two candles at once.

VAZ injector errors

Errors can relate to any part of the car:

  • Sensors. Most often, temperature sensors suffer, which can overheat too much;
  • Injectors. Basically, problems are observed due to an open circuit, as a result of which they cannot light up in time. Hence, another problem arises. the spark has disappeared, so the engine will not start;
  • Engine. The most common mistake is overheating. Most often, due to the increased oiliness, the candles also overheat, so the spark does not appear. As a result, the engine does not emit signs of life;
  • Valves. They can also be too dirty, which will cause them to close, so they will not allow the fuel-air mixture to pass through;
  • Fans. If they do not work correctly, then the machine is overheating.

If the spark is missing?

If the engine does not start, but at the same time sounds are emitted, indicating that the fuel pump is working, you should pay attention to the operation of the ignition. First of all, you should check if the spark has disappeared on the high-resistance wires. To do this, it is imperative to use an arrester, as well as a Hall sensor, which checks the presence of a magnetic field.

WHEN THE ARRESTER IS CONNECTED TO THE VAZ VEHICLE, IT IS NECESSARY TO CHECK THE ENGINE WITH THE STARTER. AS A RULE, DURING THE PERFORMANCE OF THIS PROCESS, THE APPEARANCE OF A SPARK IS OBSERVED. IF IT IS NOT ONE, IT MEANS THERE IS NO BREAKDOWN ON THE WIRE MASS. IT IS COMPLETELY POSSIBLE THAT THE SPARK HAS MISSED BECAUSE OF THE BREAK OF ANY WIRE. IF THERE IS NO SPARK AT SEVERAL WIRES AT THE SAME TIME, THE CONTROLLER IS DEFECTIVE.

The possibility of breaking high-resistance wires is also not worth it. To do this, you can use a Hall Sensor, which helps measure the current in the conductors, as well as their resistance. To check the operation of the ignition coils, you should pay attention to whether there are any error codes on the controller. If there is no spark after replacing the coil, then the controller is faulty.

How to check a spark in a chainsaw

The first stage of diagnostics of the ignition system consists in an elementary check of its operability. This simple procedure is carried out in order to exclude or confirm the assumptions and draw up a plan for further action. To perform the check, a regular 19 hex wrench is enough, but for greater confidence it is better to have a spare plug that is 100% working. The technique is as follows:

The upper case cover is removed, the candlestick is disconnected and the candle itself is unscrewed with a hexagon.

Contacts are checked immediately. The presence of moisture indicates overflow, but this does not give a 100% guarantee that the ignition system is working properly. If the spark disappears during operation, the candle will flood in one way or another. We wipe and dry well (better over the burner).

We install the candle in the cap of the armored wire removed in the first paragraph (we do not twist it into the engine).

Lean the contacts against a metal surface and pull on the starter cord. Keep the spark plug away from the combustion chamber opening (where it is screwed in), otherwise the remaining mixture in it may ignite and splash out. The spark has a charge of about 40,000 volts, which can be very painful on impact, and even harmful for people with heart problems. To avoid negative consequences, wear insulated gloves or hold the cap with pliers.

check, spark, chainsaw, candle

The presence of a spark between the spark plug and the metal surface, with a 95% probability, sweeps aside the presence of problems with the ignition system, leaving an overflow option for diagnosis. The remaining 5% refers to a cooled coil, which will fail again when heated.

The second exception is related to the test conditions, where the spark plug gives off a spark in the open air, but after installation in the socket stops working. This rare phenomenon is associated with a defect in the contacts, it is checked by a special tester and treated by replacing the part with a working one.

If all actions are performed according to the instructions, but there is no spark on the chainsaw candle even after installing a new, tested element, all attention should be directed to the ignition system. In order, from simple to complex, starting with the gap and ending with a complete replacement of the coil, each reason from the list above is worked out. Most of the operations are simple and intuitive. The work requiring explanations is set out below.

Read more:  How To Start A Stihl 180 Chainsaw

Restoration of performance

The design of the ignition system is not very versatile and has only 4 main components: coil, flywheel, start button and spark plug. In most cases, when there is no spark in the chainsaw, the malfunction is attributed to the contamination of the spark plug contacts, the failure of the module, or a knocked-down gap. By and large, all restoration procedures are quite understandable and do not require special knowledge for implementation. Of course, there are nuances that it is better to know about in advance, and all of them, in the form of step-by-step instructions, are already presented on this site in a separate topic (checking and repairing the ignition system of a chainsaw).

In the case of a worn out bearing and a flywheel runout during rotation, the repair takes on a more global nature, affecting almost the entire system. To replace a worn out element, you need to get to the crankcase and divide it into 2 halves. This procedure involves disabling the carburetor, unscrewing the shock absorbers, removing the cylinder, clutch and flywheel. The procedure takes time and perseverance, but can be performed even by a novice user (if desired). Comprehensive instructions for a complete disassembly of the chainsaw in detail are available on the website.

Reasons for the absence of a spark

To successfully determine the source of the malfunction, it is enough to conduct a step-by-step check of each potentially defective node. Since the ignition system is responsible for the formation of a spark, first of all you should pay attention to its components (spark plug, armored wire, start button, module and flywheel). Diagnostics begins with unscrewing the candle and visually assessing the condition of its contacts. The abundant presence of soot and corrosion, signals the need for cleaning, and the presence of moisture indicates overflow, which is due to the fault of the carburetor.

The next reason may be damage to the trigger button or worn wire insulation. To check this assumption, it is enough to disconnect the switch from the coil and try to start the saw.

The armored wire that transmits the impulse from the coil to the candle can be frayed at the points of contact with the body. In this case, the spark will skip to the outside of the engine without entering the combustion chamber. In contrast to the wear of the trigger wire, damage to the high-voltage is more pronounced and easier to detect.

The spring in the candlestick (cap), which forms contact between the armored wire and the candle, can be removed, broken or oxidized. It is enough to remove the cap and assess the condition with a simple visual inspection.

The clearance between the handwheel and the coil should be in the range of tenths of a millimeter (0.3 mm on average). For the effective effect of the magnetic field, the gap should not be too large, but in no case should there be contact between the metal elements (magnetic circuit) of the module. The vibration of the tool while it is running can loosen the screws or simply move the coil slightly. The fastening is checked manually. If it does not sit tightly and walks when exposed, then adjustment is required (a detailed process is described below).

As the tool is used, there is a gradual wear and tear of the crankcase bearings, as a result of which the rotation of the flywheel becomes uneven. The runout gradually increases, which has an unpredictable effect on the position of the part during operation. The gap between the flywheel and the magneto will begin to oscillate until the elements touch or are too far apart. No spark will be generated and the saw will stall. This condition is typical for a working instrument and can be assessed by eye. Turn the handwheel by hand, observing the distance to the coil. If there is obvious runout, then the bearing needs to be replaced.

One common non-ignition problem with no spark is fuel overflow. This can happen due to the fault of the user who missed the engine stroke during the cold start and continued to pull the starter with the choke closed. The air filter can be heavily clogged and the carburetor is misaligned, which leads to a predominance of fluid over the air and makes it difficult to ignite the mixture. The site has a separate topic dedicated to the problem of filling candles, where all the problems and instructions for their elimination are clearly presented.

Weak spark on a chainsaw

Since the introduction of a new ignition system into the instrument, the opinion has not receded that a low-force charge is not able to ignite the fuel mixture. Usually, such a claim is based on comparison with older coils that generate a pronounced spark of blue. The charge of modern modules has a much paler shade and a smaller range of action, which may raise doubts about its effectiveness, relative to a powerful analogue from the past.

Effective mixing of air and fuel, forms an extremely flammable substance, which is enough when a weak spark is issued on a chainsaw. The reason for the decrease in charge is to optimize the operation of the coil and reduce its size. If there is a spark, the mixture will ignite in 99% of cases, in the presence of normal gasoline, oil and a working carburetor.

Troubleshooting Algorithm

In all other cases, the search for ignition faults begins from the end and in order. Check the spark after each step.

check, spark, chainsaw, candle
  • Change the old candle for a guaranteed working one.
  • If the model has a removable candle cap, it is removed, the bare candle wire is shorted to ground with a gap, approximately like a candle. Pull on the starter. If there is a spark, the problem is in the cap. It is eliminated.
  • Change the spark plug wire where it is possible to dismantle it from the source.
  • Visually inspect the wires from the switch. Vibration, in case of contact with metal, can damage them. If there are places of friction, the wire is changed, even if there is no external damage to the insulation. You can use a tester or multimeter to check the wire.

This is where minor and easily fixable problems end. If the problem is not resolved, then the cause is more serious.

Modern coils and ignition systems on most chainsaws are very reliable. They are designed to last even longer than the entire chainsaw. They do not have mechanical moving parts like the old cam systems. They are sufficiently insulated from clogging and moisture.

If, due to an accidental factory defect, an interturn short circuit occurs in the coil or the electronics fail, these parts cannot be repaired. Replacement with new ones will be required.

There is not an uncommon breakdown of mechanical properties. Due to wear or destruction of the crankshaft bearing, play appears on it. And then the magnetic rotor starts to touch the body of the ignition system, inside which it rotates. This is a serious breakdown. You will need to “halve” (disassemble) the entire engine, replace the bearing, and put everything in place.

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Why there is no spark on a chainsaw and what to do

If there is no spark on the chainsaw, then you should not be upset, the malfunction is diagnosed and eliminated on its own very simply. The health of the ignition system and the fuel system are equally important for the trouble-free operation of the chainsaw engine.

The symptoms of both ignition and carburetor malfunctions are often very similar at first glance. To correctly find and eliminate the cause in the ignition system, in particular the absence of a spark, you need to know the principle of its operation, device and diagnostics.

What to do?

It is important that there may be no spark on the chainsaw due to a malfunction of the fuel system. In order not to look for a problem in a working ignition, this issue must be dealt with immediately.

The carburetor of the chainsaw can “overflow”, that is, throw too much fuel into the combustion chamber. Inside the candle there is a porcelain insulator from which a metal core emerges. On it, under the plate, they contact the “mass” (minus) and a spark arises. We also recommend reading an article about setting up a carburetor on a chainsaw with your own hands. If a gasoline saw starts up and stalls, read here. If it does not start at all, then here.

If the space inside the plug between the round insulator and the ground is filled with excess fuel, especially together with conductive pollution, a short (spark) can slip inside the plug. There will be no spark where it is needed.

However, if there is no spark on the chainsaw, the fuel does not burn, and the spark plug simply must be wet with fuel when the carburetor is running. It is practically impossible to determine visually whether the candle is overly flooded and therefore there is no spark, or not excessively. Therefore, for an accurate diagnosis of this “nodal moment” (the carburetor or ignition is faulty), you need to have at hand 2-3 guaranteed serviceable candles.

  • A working candle is put.
  • Spark is tested.

If there is a spark, it means one of two things:

  • the old candle was defective;
  • the old spark plug is working, but it was filled with fuel.

The working candle is screwed into place, the engine is tried to start. If it started working normally, the problem is resolved. If not, turn the candle inside out again and watch the spark. There is no spark. put the next dry working candle.

There is a spark, they put the candle in place, try to start it. If it does not start again, turn the candle inside out, watch the spark. If the spark on the chainsaw disappears again, and the spark plug is flooded, there is almost a 100% chance that the cause is fuel overflow. If you are faced with such a situation, then we recommend reading the article, which describes in detail for what reasons he pours a candle on a chainsaw and what to do.

Reasons for the absence of a spark

The engine of each chainsaw is, in fact, a miniature power plant. She receives the primary impulse for the spark on the candle from the pull of the starter cord, from muscle energy.

Further, energy is generated due to the rotation of the magnetic rotor when the engine is running due to the combustion of fuel.

For reference! In theory, spark problems can be found throughout the entire mowing line of a system, from generating power to transferring it through wires and converting it to a spark plug at the chainsaw‘s spark plug. In practice, there are fewer weak points.

How to make sure there is really no spark?

To make sure there is a spark on the chainsaw or not, you need to follow a simple procedure:

  • Removing the top cover on the case.
  • Carefully, with a grip at the very bottom, so as not to tear off the candle wire, the cap is removed from the candle.
  • With a 19 socket wrench included in the kit, the candle is unscrewed counterclockwise.
  • The cap is put on in place, on the candle.
  • The thread or nut of the candle is “shorted to ground”, that is, pressed against the metal cylinder head.

To ensure reliable contact, the candle is pressed against the cylinder with electric pliers, a screwdriver with insulated handles, or with a hand with dielectric gloves. You should not do this with your bare hand. If the cap breaks down, you can get a painful shock from a high-voltage discharge (up to 40,000 V at a low current strength of up to 80 milliamperes).

Place the chainsaw on the ground, press it with your foot on the ground, and lightly pull on the starter cord. At this time, it will be seen whether there is a spark or not.

Weak spark reasons

A weak spark on a chainsaw is a relative concept. Most often, a spark is either present and the ignition is working properly, or it is not there at all. In modern chainsaws with electronic ignition, the spark visually seems to be weak.

On older models with a mechanical cam interrupter, the spark was large, with a strong blue color. On modern models with electronics, it is noticeably smaller and paler, more often yellowish. Therefore, when you need to make sure of its presence, it is better to do it in the shade. In direct sunlight, it is almost invisible.

HOW-TO Check For Good Spark On A Chainsaw

A spark plug malfunction is not uncommon, but also owners of chainsaws face other malfunctions, read an overview of the most common ones in this article.

Troubleshooting Tips

Overflowing fuel and filling the chainsaw candle can be one-time and accidental. For example, “overshooting” with a pump cap (primer): the engine did not start immediately, the operator presses the cap again and again, tries to start, pumps up again.

In this case, the cause is not at all in the carburetor. It is necessary to unscrew the plug and blow out the combustion chamber by pulling the starter cord several times, as when starting. Wipe the candle, dry it on the flame of a gas burner or burner, or use another. They check the spark, put the candle in place. They try to start without sucking at first.

If it does not start after 3-4 jerks, press the pump cap 2-3 times. Try again. That is, after the overflow, it is better not to pump fuel at first, but to pump it up incrementally. Until the engine starts.

Candles sometimes require their own maintenance and care.

One of the reasons for the absence of a spark in a chainsaw is described in the following video, where they also say how to fix a breakdown:

Modern chainsaw ignition systems are quite compact and reliable. You just need to protect them from direct moisture, shock, exposure to extreme temperatures. And then there will be no problem with the lack of a spark during launch. Also, knowingly serviceable 1-2 spare candles will not be superfluous.