How to check the ignition coil of the trimmer with a tester

How to check the ignition coil with a tester

Every car enthusiast knows that a malfunction of the ignition coil causes problems with starting a gasoline internal combustion engine. Carrying out computer diagnostics does not always help to identify a problem in the coil, since this method can only detect a misfire in any cylinder of the engine. Further check of the coil has to be done in the old fashioned way, manually.

check, ignition, coil, trimmer, tester

The purpose of the ignition coil

The main task of ignition coils is to transform the low-voltage electrical current from a battery or generator into a high-voltage electrical impulse that generates a spark in the spark plugs..

Spark plugs can be divided into three types according to the type of electrical breakdown gap:

  • one-petal;
  • two-petal;
  • three-petal.

The gap ranges from 0.4 to 1.1 mm, this distance depends on the technical characteristics of the motor. The average value of the power required to create an electrical impulse in air between two contacts is considered to be 6 kV per 1 mm of gap.

However, taking into account the voltage decrease at the limiting resistance in the high-voltage ignition wires, the pulse power should be 10-20 kV.

It is important to remember that spark plugs generate enough electrical discharge to cause serious injury or death..

For this, it is worth using special protective rubber gloves (standard protective gloves do not provide a sufficient degree of protection, since their breakdown voltage is only 6.3 kV).

Methods for checking ignition coils

The ability to determine the cause of a breakdown of the ignition coil will always be useful and relevant for every car owner, because this unit is one of the most important in the design of an internal combustion engine.

A small malfunction in this part can cause unstable engine operation, and complete failure can cause engine failure..

Even taking into account the fact that ignition coils are quite reliable and rarely break, they still fail, and the following reasons can serve as the most common reasons for this:

  • overheating, increased voltage or vibration can damage the insulation, which in turn leads to a short circuit in the coil winding;
  • defective spark plugs or damaged high-voltage wires cause overloads in the coil, which can lead to winding breakage.

There are two ways to check the bobbin at home: the formation of a spark between the spark plugs and the car body, or using a coil tester (multimeter). At the first signs of unstable operation of a gasoline internal combustion engine, first of all, it is worth checking the ignition coil.

Despite the equal effectiveness of these two methods of checking the coil, the first one has recently been, not only undesirable, but also dangerous for both a person and a car. The spark created can cause serious injury or, in the worst case scenario, kill a person..

Also, this method can completely disable the ignition coil itself and all the electronics of the car (especially important for modern cars). Therefore, it is worth abandoning the “popular” method and resorting to checking the ignition coil with a tester.

Checking the coil with a multimeter

The multimeter is a versatile device for determining various characteristics of electricity. Such a device is quite widespread and is commercially available..

The following will give a detailed answer to the question: how to check the ignition coil with a multimeter. To do this, follow these steps:

  • First you need to disconnect the “minus” on the car battery, unscrew the brackets a little, disconnect the coil wiring and clean its body. A visual inspection of the coil is also necessary at this stage. If cracks or other serious damage were found on its body, then it is necessary to completely replace the ignition coil. In this case, it is important to remember that the new coil must be selected in strict accordance with the technical characteristics: winding resistance, inductance and current of the primary winding, energy and duration of the spark.
  • Next, the resistance of the primary winding is checked. To do this, the multimeter probes must be connected to the positive and negative terminals of the coil, and the tester must be configured to measure resistance. The coils of different cars have different resistance values, and you can find out this value in the instructions for the car. However, all ignition coils have a resistance in the 0.4-2 ohm range. If the multimeter, when measuring the resistance, showed a value that is included in this range, this will mean that the coil is working. If the display shows a value of 0 Ohm, these readings will mean that a short circuit has occurred in the winding, and with a value of infinity, an open circuit has occurred. Also, in order to check the integrity of the coil cables, it can be called.
  • After checking the resistance of the primary winding, a similar check must be carried out for the secondary winding. For this, the probes of the multimeter are connected to the positive contact and to the high voltage wire. If the coil has a lamellar core, the resistance value will be in the range from 6 to 8 kOhm. For other types of ignition coils, this characteristic can exceed 15 kOhm..
  • After determining the resistance of both windings, the obtained readings must be compared with the standard values ​​for the tested coil..

Double coil testing is more difficult because the primary winding in such coils is connected to the connector. The dual coil circuit is different from the usual one and its knowledge is important when checking the primary winding. The secondary winding will ring without any problems, for this the multimeter must be connected to two high-voltage terminals.

Any ignition coil refers to ultra-precise and hypersensitive devices and any deviation of the actual readings from the norm can lead to serious malfunctions of the car during its further operation. Also, the inductance coil is the device that cannot be repaired and if it malfunctions, it must be replaced..

Causes of coil malfunction

Partial damage to the ignition coil leads to unstable engine operation, and its complete breakdown makes it completely impossible to start the engine. That is why, when the engine is tripled, its power is lost, or other signs of fuzzy operation, one of the first steps should be to check the ignition coil. This element fails quite rarely, and the malfunction, as a rule, consists in the following:

  • Insulation damage due to strong heat, vibration or high voltage, which in turn leads to a short circuit in the coil windings;
  • Overloading caused by faulty high voltage wires or spark plugs can cause the coil winding to break.

Methods for checking the ignition coil

Checking the ignition coil by the “old-fashioned” method can damage the electrician of a modern car

For proper self-checking of this car part, it is recommended to perform certain actions in stages. First of all, after removing the coil, you need to visually inspect it and make sure that there are no external signs of a short circuit: black dots indicating burnout, cracks, or other signs of breakdown.

In our country, for a long time, there were two equally popular ways of how to check the ignition coil for operability: by checking the spark between the car body and the spark plug or by measuring the resistance of the windings with a multimeter (tester). The use of the first method can be fatal not only for the coil, but also for the electronics of most modern cars, therefore, its use is strongly discouraged by manufacturers. It is safer to check this unit of the car with a measuring device..

How to check the ignition coil

One of the most important elements of the ignition system of any gasoline engine is the coil. It is she who is considered the main unit of contact, contactless, as well as electronic ignition systems, playing the role of a kind of energy storage device intended for further distribution of the charge over the cylinders.

Using a multimeter when checking a coil

In order to independently get a complete picture of the health of an element of the ignition system, you need to figure out how to check the ignition coil with a multimeter. This procedure should not cause any particular difficulties..

First, the primary winding is checked, to the positive and negative contacts of which the device is connected in the resistance measurement mode. Factory default values ​​may vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, but average resistance values ​​should be between 0.4 and 2.0 ohms. If the device shows zero resistance, then a short circuit has occurred in the coil, if infinity, you need to look for an open circuit.

Checking the ignition coil with a tester

To check the secondary winding, a multimeter is connected to the positive terminal of the coil and the terminal from the high voltage wire. The resistance value of this winding for coils with a lamellar core is 6-8 kOhm, for other types – the parameter may exceed 15 kOhm.

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string trimmer weed eater coil test & replace

It is possible to draw a conclusion about whether the obtained indicators are within the limits established for a particular model, it is possible only having an idea of ​​its other technical characteristics: duration and energy of the spark discharge, spark discharge current and the value of the inductance of the primary winding.

Any malfunction of the ignition coil badly affects the efficiency of the car engine, and this can lead to a decrease in its durability. That is why its timely diagnosis and repair (or replacement) is necessary, if necessary..

The principle of operation of the ignition coil

As mentioned above, the ignition coil is a step-up voltage transformer that converts the resulting 12 V voltage into a voltage of several kilovolts. Structurally, the coil consists of two windings – primary and secondary (respectively, low and high voltage). However, depending on the type of coil, the windings and their locations differ..

Let’s start with the simplest common coil. There are 100.150 turns on the primary here. The winding is wound with insulated copper wire. Its ends are brought out to the coil body. The number of turns of the high voltage winding is 30.50 thousand (depending on the model). Naturally, the wire used here is of a much smaller diameter. The “minus” of the secondary winding is connected to the “minus” of the primary. And the “plus” is connected to the terminal on the lid. In this way, the resulting high voltage is diverted..

To increase the magnetic field, the windings are wound around a metal core. In some cases, to avoid overheating, the winding and core are filled with transformer oil (it not only cools the system, but also acts as an insulator).

We now turn to the consideration of the individual ignition coil. There are also two windings here, but the difference lies in their location. In particular, they are wound in reverse order. The primary winding is of an internal type and the secondary is of an external type..

Individual ignition coils are installed in electronic ignition systems. Therefore, their design is complicated. So, to cut off a significant current in the secondary winding, a diode is provided. Also, a feature of the individual coil is the fact that the resulting high voltage goes not to the distributor (as in classic systems), but directly to the spark plugs. This was made possible by a design that included an insulated body, rod and spring..

Another type of coil is two-lead. It supplies voltage to two cylinders at once. There are several varieties of them. As a rule, such coils are combined into one common unit, which is essentially a four-terminal ignition coil..

Regardless of the type of ignition coil, their main technical parameter, which should be guided by when diagnosing, is the resistance of the windings. In particular, the resistance of the primary winding is usually in the range of 0.5. 3.5 Ohm, and the secondary – 6.15 kOhm (these values ​​may differ for different coils, so it is better to find reference information for the model that is used in your car). Measurements are made using traditional instruments – multimeters or ohmmeters. If the value obtained is very different from the indicated one, then there is a high probability that the coil is out of order..

You also need to be aware of the fact that each coil has different indicators:

  • winding resistance;
  • spark duration;
  • spark energy;
  • spark current;
  • primary inductance.

Therefore, in order to understand how the coil readings correspond to the norm, it is necessary to clarify the technical characteristics of your individual coil. This is especially useful if the spark is missing, since the ignition coil is one of the first elements of the system to be checked..

How to check the ignition coil

The ignition coil is designed to generate high voltage, which is then used by the spark plug. Therefore, its proper operation is necessary for the normal functioning of the ignition system. In fact, the coil is a small transformer, to the primary winding of which comes standard 12 V from the battery, and a voltage of several kV comes out. It is used in all ignition systems – contact, contactless and electronic. The reasons for coil failure are typical. As a rule, this is a wire break, insulation damage, mechanical deformation. Next, we will consider the symptoms of a malfunction and methods for diagnosing the ignition coil.

Causes of malfunctions

There are several reasons due to which the ignition coil fails completely or partially. Among them:

  • Mechanical damage. This can be trivial aging, due to which the destruction of insulation occurs. There is also the possibility of oil leaking through the seals, which gets on the insulation or coil body and destroys them. Repair in this case is hardly possible, so the best option would be a complete replacement of the unit..
  • Damage to the contact connection. In warm weather, this may be due to moisture entering the engine compartment. For example, during heavy rain, driving through deep puddles, car wash. In winter, it is likely that the composition sprinkled on the road surface to combat icing is likely to hit the coil..
  • Overheat. Individual coils are often subject to it. Overheating can significantly reduce the life of the ignition coils. Overheating is difficult to control, but try to use good quality coolant and ensure that the engine cooling system is working properly.
  • Vibration. They are especially detrimental to individual ignition coils. Vibration usually comes from the cylinder head (cylinder head). To reduce the number and amplitude of vibrations, make sure that the engine runs in normal mode (without detonation and with serviceable airbags).

Ignition coils are fairly reliable and durable units, and their failure is most often associated with aging and / or insulation breakdown. Next, consider the methods for diagnosing coils.

Symptoms of malfunctions

There are several characteristic signs of a malfunctioning ignition coil. Among them:

  • the motor begins to “triple”, and this problem is aggravated over time;
  • in the cold, the motor “troit” until it warms up;
  • interruptions in engine operation in wet weather;
  • when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply, there is a failure in the motor.

If the coil is faulty on cars with an ECU, the Check Engine icon is activated on the dashboard. However, the listed signs may also indicate other malfunctions, in particular, with spark plugs. But when at least one of them appears, you need to diagnose the ignition coil (s). When connecting a diagnostic scanner, it may show a P0363 code.

How to check the ignition coil

There are two main ways by which you can independently check the performance of the ignition coil. Let’s list them in order.

How to identify faults

It is not so difficult to identify the performance of the SZ on its own – this can be done both by visual inspection and by analyzing the performance of the engine. One of the main symptoms of SZ failure is non-standard engine operation. In particular, we are talking about a difficult start of the power unit, its unstable operation, in particular, at idle.

But besides these symptoms, there are many other signs, which are listed below:

  • In particular, we are talking about the rotation of the crankshaft. The crankshaft rotates at the required frequency, however, the power unit does not start, since no ignition occurs in the system, i.e. ignition of the air mixture.
  • The presence of flares in the cylinders. If bursts of air-fuel mixture occur in the cylinders, this can lead to unstable engine operation. In particular, the internal combustion engine will work intermittently.
  • Poor starting of the motor. In principle, the engine can start, but if the starter stops working, the engine is also shut off..
  • Increased consumption of gasoline. If there is no ignition of the air-fuel mixture, then the engine power is either reduced or completely lost. Accordingly, the compensation of engine power is carried out as a result of supplying an increased portion of fuel to the cylinders. Ultimately, this leads to excessive fuel consumption..
  • Failure of the catalyst. If the system does not ignite, the air / fuel mixture cannot ignite. The fuel that does not ignite will enter the catalyst and oxidize, thus contributing to its failure..
  • Problems in starting a cold engine. The moment the driver turns the key in the ignition lock, cold SZs can collect condensation, which in itself is a good electrical conductor. If the gap between the SZ electrodes is increased, the breakdown voltage level must be increased. However, it is impossible to increase it at home, since electricity will go through these same electrodes and a ceramic cone..
  • Another, no less important sign is the presence of traces of mechanical damage on the surface of the spark plug. This indicates, if not a complete breakdown, then at least the incorrect operation of the SZ, which over time can lead to its failure..
  • Carbon deposits and deposits on the SZ electrodes. In addition, if the SZ smells of fuel, this indicates a malfunction of the system itself, as well as candles.
  • High-voltage cables in the SZ can also contribute to a deterioration in engine performance. Especially if this wires are damaged.
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Two SZ – with and without bloom

What resistance should be on the spark plugs, how to make a tester for SZ with your own hands

Spark check

Spark diagnosis is one of the most popular and used test options. How to check a spark on a candle at home? To begin, clean the SZ from carbon deposits and impurities. Then, using a probe – a device for adjusting the gap – adjust the distance between the electrodes. Then, after working with the probe, a wire is put on the candle, after which it is applied to the metal part of the car engine.

This is done in order to create the necessary electrical contact. If you do not know how to check the spark plug in this way, then just turn on the starter and try to start the engine. If the spark is blue and appears immediately when you try to start the internal combustion engine, then this indicates the serviceability of the SZ. If the spark is red or not, then the candle must be changed..

Coil

In the case of the coil, it can be described as a fairly reliable and durable element of the ignition system. It rarely breaks down and causes trouble for the car owner. But sometimes problems appear and need to be fixed..

Most often, problems with the coil are caused by damage to the winding itself. If this happens, a breakdown in the insulation is formed, which can provoke a short circuit, which is dangerous for injection engines..

Another reason for damage to the coil is an overload caused by malfunctioning spark plugs or damage to the high voltage wiring (high voltage wires).

Before you start checking the spark on the coil, be sure to make sure that the room where the diagnostic measures are being carried out is dry. The check can be done by hand, and no special devices or professional equipment is required here..

Diagnostics is carried out according to the standard scheme, which provides for the implementation of several sequential procedures:

Thoroughly clean the distributor cover from accumulated dirt. Only then can it be opened and removed;
Having turned the engine crankshaft, it is necessary to close the distributor contacts;
The ignition is switched on;
The high-voltage wire coming from the distributor is brought to the mass of the car

It is important to provide a distance of 5 mm;
To improve the accuracy of the test, it is periodically necessary to manually open the distributor contacts..

If the coil is in good condition, during this check you will see a bright, powerful enough spark of white and blue color..

When a spark appears, but it is rather weak and unstable, it is not formed at every contact closure, such a coil is no longer suitable for further operation, and it must be replaced. In the vast majority of cases, the coil cannot be repaired..

When installing a new element, remember the importance of correct polarity. If this moment is missed, the coil will break again.

If you go to the service center, they can check the coil at a special professional stand. Its advantage lies in the fact that such diagnostics allows you to test the coil for its performance in different modes. But nevertheless, almost every motorist can independently figure out how to correctly check the spark on his injection type of engine by diagnosing the installed ignition coil.

How to test a spark

From time to time, you have to check the performance of the candles in order to find out some of the reasons for the unstable operation. There are 3 ways to test spark plugs:

  • Checking for weight.
  • We check with an electronic measuring tool (multimeter).
  • Manual mechanical army way of checking the spark. The essence of the method is to make a gap of 4 mm. If the spark strikes exactly in the middle, then this is a perfectly working candle. If, with such a gap, a spark hits the side, then this is already a poorly working candle..
  • interruptions at idle speed;
  • tripping of internal combustion engines;
  • twitching while moving;
  • increased fuel consumption.

How to check spark plugs yourself

There are several ways to check the presence of a spark and, in general, performance:

  • Start the engine and pull out the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs one by one. If the candle does not work, then the sound and vibration of the internal combustion engine will not change. And, if you disconnect the wire from a working candle, then you will immediately feel changes in the operation of the motor.
  • Stop the engine. Unscrew the plug, put the thread on the body, for example, on the valve cover, and the second person turns the ignition key. It is better for the person who is holding the candle to keep it with rubber gloves or to let go altogether. His task is to see if there is a spark, and what it is.
  • A special device for checking candles is a pistol. A candle is inserted into the gun and it is determined whether or not there is a spark.
  • Homemade device for checking candles – piezo lighter with wire. Connect the wire from the piezo lighter module with the removed candle and put the piezo lighter unit itself on “ground”, then press the button on the block.
  • There is also a pressure test method. But why use all sorts of complicated methods when the first two methods of checking spark plugs are the most effective.

Checking with a “pistol”

There is another option for checking the performance of devices at home. To do this, you need a special spark plug test gun. Such a device appeared quite a long time ago, but it has become widespread among domestic motorists relatively recently..

In this case, the spark plugs are checked under pressure, the procedure is carried out as follows:

  • SZ is installed in a special connector of the device, after which a cap is put on it.
  • When the candle is fixed, it is necessary to press the so-called trigger on the device, after which the car enthusiast needs to be most careful.
  • If, after pressing the trigger, you notice a spark, while the lamp on the pistol lights up, this indicates that the part is working.

It should be noted that this type of verification is not widespread among our motorists because it cannot give full confidence in the performance of the SZ. This is because the procedure is carried out under pressure, and the pressure in the gun is significantly different from that used in the automotive system. But on the other hand, the method of checking with a pistol will allow the driver to be completely sure that the SZ does not work if it was revealed during the diagnosis (video author – Nail Poroshin).

Checking the spark on the ignition module

Seasoned and fairly experienced drivers know that engine tripping and problematic starting of the engine is quite often associated with a spark. Or rather, with its absence on the spark plugs.

Therefore, every owner of a vehicle with an injection engine must know how the check is carried out even in extreme field conditions. The most correct decision would be to buy new high-quality candles, which are always in the glove compartment of the car as a set..

When removing high-voltage wires from the module, it is recommended to pre-mark them with serial numbers with a marker. This will prevent you from getting confused during the reassembly process..

If everything is fine with the candles, and the wires are also intact, most likely the cause of the malfunction lies in the module. To make sure of this for sure, you can use the spoofing method. That is, in place of the probably faulty module, another module is installed, designed for a car of the same make and model. If the check showed that your module is out of order, because everything works fine with the new one, you will only need to purchase a new device.

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When working with high voltage, spark plugs and the module, be sure to use tools that have insulated handles. It is also recommended to keep a set of dielectric gloves on hand.

To blame everything on the ignition module, you must have appropriate grounds. There are several manifestations or symptoms of malfunctions characteristic of an injection engine in case of problems with this module. Here we are talking about the following symptoms:

  • there is an intermittent operation of the power plant when the engine is at idle;
  • power drops noticeably;
  • the power deficit is especially pronounced when the driver is trying to accelerate sharply;
  • cylinders next to each other are not working correctly.

Also, while driving, a warning lamp may light up on the dashboard about the need to check the engine..

If one or several of the symptoms sounded at once appear in practice during the operation of your vehicle, you should be wary and mentally prepare yourself for the fact that in the near future you will have to spend a fairly substantial amount of money. The new module is not so cheap, so motorists cannot rejoice even if they managed to find the source of trouble, and it turned out to be an ignition module..

It is recommended to start diagnostics of the module only if you have definitely excluded all other possible reasons for the absence of a spark in the ignition system.

Ignition Coil Primary & Secondary Resistance Testing

In this situation, the most informative, but at the same time quite simple test of the spark on the injector is to use a tester. One probe goes directly to the contact, which is marked with the letter A on the connector of the ignition module, and the second probe is connected to ground. Next, the engine is started by turning the key in the ignition lock.

If, when starting the engine, a voltmeter or multimeter in voltmeter mode shows a value of 12 volts, then we can talk about the good and working condition of the ignition module. That is, there is no need to change it or repair it..

But when there is no voltage on the measuring device, then you need to look for the cause. It is possible that the module does not work due to a banal fuse failure. Be sure to look into the fuse box, check the instruction manual and check the condition of the fuse responsible for the ignition module.

In the event of a module failure, there is practically no point in repairing it. It is often recommended to purchase a new device with similar characteristics and replace the old one. Since the module is a rather expensive device, do not rush to spend money and buy it until you are sure that it is completely guilty..

Replacing the magneto

Advice! Another good solution would be to provide an old ignition coil so the seller can pick up a new part..

To remove the magneto, you need to remove the plastic cover from the trimmer. This process is different on different lawnmower models. It is usually necessary to remove the bolts, but on some petrol trims it may be necessary to depress the latches. After that, access to the coil is opened. To remove the part, you need to unscrew the retaining fasteners and disconnect the wires.

When installing a new part, you need to correctly set the distance between the flywheel and the magneto. To do this, turn the flywheel upwards with the magnets, install the coil and secure it, but do not fully tighten the screws so that there is a small distance between the parts. Next, between the coil and the flywheel, you need to put a pocket calendar, a business card or a A4 paper sheet folded in four, you can also use a plastic strip cut from a bottle. These tweaks will ensure adequate clearance between the flywheel and the magneto. A more competent solution would be to use a special template, but purchasing it for the sake of once is impractical. Next, you need to tighten the fasteners, remove the object between the parts, and, holding the magneto with your hands so that it does not spin, tighten the fixing screws tightly. After that, you should turn the flywheel and make sure that it does not catch the coil anywhere. Now you need to connect the wires and insert the candle into the cap, and then check the operation of the device.

Unstable sparking

If the magneto sparks intermittently, the contacts must be checked first. They could be burnt or oily. The carbon deposits found are cleaned with a file, and the oil is wiped off with suede, previously soaked in gasoline. The second possible cause of the problem is the adjustment of the gap between the contacts. To eliminate it, you need to set the correct distance..

If the spark appears intermittently, it could also mean that the breaker arm pad is worn out. To eliminate the malfunction, you must change the lever to a new one. In addition, the clearance should be adjusted, as with another possible cause of breakdown – misalignment of the outline.

Capacitor breakdown can also be the culprit for interruptions in spark formation. In such a situation, the replacement of the damaged part is required, since it cannot be repaired and recharged..

Insufficient sparking

The weak spark on the magneto is caused by a damaged capacitor. To eliminate the breakdown, it is necessary to replace the failed part..

Method 2

Magneto diagnostics using a multimeter is a solution that can be implemented on your own with such a measuring device. In this case, it is necessary to do the following.

  • Switch on resistance mode on the Meter and set to 200 ohms to test the primary winding.
  • Connect multimeter electrodes to magneto ground and output terminal. If the winding is intact, the resistance will vary from 0.4 to 2 ohms.
  • Switch on the 20 kΩ tester to perform a secondary diagnosis. In this case, the first probe is connected to the “mass”, and the second is installed in the spark plug cap. Normal values ​​are at least 4-6 com. If the circuit is damaged, then the tester will show infinity, and in case of a short circuit – zero..

The exact data on what the tester should read during the primary and secondary winding check can be found in the instructions for use of the trimmer..

Typical problems – causes

The faults that most often occur with magneto are typical for trimmers from different manufacturers. As a rule, this is a weak spark or its absence, as well as the presence of interruptions in this process..

Trimmer ignition coil – faults and repairs

Lawn mowers are a popular seasonal tool designed to remove unwanted vegetation from your home. Like any other technique, these devices break down periodically. Repairing the trimmer ignition coil is one of the popular problems common to gasoline braids. The ignition system itself is designed in the same way on two- and four-stroke internal combustion engines, so the elimination of breakdowns is performed almost the same for tools from different manufacturers, be it Lux, Huter, Husqvarna or another brand. Ways to restore the performance of the ignition coil or replace it with a new one – in the material below.

Magneto – design and operating principle

The purpose of the ignition coil is to convert the rotational energy into a high-voltage discharge and form a spark that ignites the fuel mixture. In an internal combustion engine, this part is called a magneto, since in it an alternating current is generated from the rotation of a permanent magnetic rotor or an armature..

Magneto structurally consists of two windings: high and low voltage. A capacitor with breaker contacts is connected in parallel to the latter. Whereas the leads of the high voltage winding are connected to the candle and the body. Both of them are wound on a core, between the poles of which a rotating magnet is installed, magnetized longitudinally.

On a note! The whole structure looks like a large coil mounted on a U-shaped core.

Method 1

The first way to check the ignition coil involves the use of special equipment (stand). It is not available at home – you can find it only in service centers.