Button fa2-4/1bek wiring diagram
An electric drill is an indispensable assistant in all kinds of home repairs: with its help you can perform a number of tasks from mixing paints, glue for wallpaper to its main purpose. drilling various holes. The power button of the product is subject to rapid wear and tear, which must often be repaired or replaced with a new one. To carry out this rather simple operation, the user needs a wiring diagram of the drill button and knowledge of the most common faults of this important part.
The drill is a power tool that is available in almost every home. As a rule, for household purposes, you buy inexpensive models that are not designed for intensive use. They have a shorter life than professional power tools and break down often enough.
One of the weakest points of a household drill is the starter button. During exploitation, the main control element often oxidizes or burns out.
If your power drill stops responding to or quickly fails to operate the starter button, stop taking it to a service center.
Replacing the button on the drill. a fairly simple procedure, which can cope even a novice master. And so that in the process of repair there are no questions, we have prepared for you a simple and clear instructions.
Let’s note in advance that any electric drill regardless of the manufacturer and model consists of the same elements, so the following instructions are universal.
Checking the electric motor: causes of breakdowns and repairs
There are several causes of breakdowns of the armature or stator of the drill. First of all, it is illiterate operation of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, carrying out work without a break. This leads to the fact that the drill motor does not have time to “rest”. The second reason lies in a bad winding wire, which are often found in cheap models. That’s why breakdowns of cheap tools are much more common. Repair in this case should be carried out with the use of specialized tools. And it is better if you entrust this work to professionals.
However, if it has been decided to carry out the repair by your own forces, you will definitely have a question. how to do everything correctly? As you have already understood, the electric drill “suffers” from breakages of the armature and stator, and you can check this by several signs, for example, when the tool suddenly sparks while working. If there are no “bright” signs, you can use an ohmmeter.
Is it possible to connect a drill without a button
A drill is one of the most used power tools in everyday life. Often, during its operation such element as the power button fails. This is due to the fact that the switch, which is responsible for turning on and off the device, is subjected to mechanical influences, as a result of which it quickly wears out. It is for this reason that most people who use an electric drill have a legitimate question: can the drill be connected directly without the power button and how to do it??
Usually such question arises in most cases when a switch on/off switch of an electric drill fails and there is no possibility to buy a new one. It should be noted at once that it is quite possible to connect the power to the electric drill and start it without the button. However during such connection it is necessary to follow all rules and instructions for connection of motor’s contacts of the device to the wires that supply power from the electric network.
Replacing the Button in an Electric Drill
Quite often the drill stops working because of a broken button (does not turn on, does not regulate the speed), we take apart the drill what is trying to do, and when we understand that the button is a lot of wire from it turns out it has been broken and where was the unknown? You buy a new button, so how do you connect it??To do this you need a wiring diagram:
Wiring a button where the capacitor has three pins
In order to make the motor start working in the opposite direction it is necessary to swap the wires connection to the brushes (in a button with reverse it is done with the lever of the switch).
I want to draw your attention when buying a button, it must match not only the size but also the power of your drill. Let’s calculate: we have a drill with power of 650W, P=UI, I=650/220=2,95A, so we need a button for U=
We need 220V, I= no less than 2.95A, this means we need the BOOE-3 button
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Disassembly of the electric drill
In order to troubleshoot and repair the device, the tool often has to be disassembled. As all devices are similar in appearance, their disassembly can be presented in the following way:
- Screws around the perimeter of the device are unscrewed, to do this you will need to use a Phillips screwdriver.
- After unscrewing the screws, the halves are disconnected.
- The power button and reverse button are carefully removed from the grooves.
- Remove the gear unit from one half. In order to remove it, you will need to turn it in the seat.
- Assembling takes place in reverse order. It is necessary to make sure that all the removed elements and wires are placed in the recesses made specially for them.
To lubricate the mechanical parts, you will need to disassemble the gearbox. To do this, remove the protective cover, then unscrew the screws and remove the top cover. Viscous materials such as Agrinol are used as a lubricant. It should be noted that the repair of power tools with their own hands when the gearbox is damaged is almost impossible, because it is difficult to buy a separate replacement for worn gears.
How to connect the drill button yourself?
Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work with your own hands, observing some important rules. For example, remember that opening the case can cause all parts and loose parts to simply fall out of the case. Naturally this should be avoided, because later it will be quite difficult to assemble the device as a whole. To do this, you can lift the cover smoothly, marking the exact location of the parts on the paper.
The button is repaired as follows:
- First, the clamps for the cover are hooked, then it is carefully tightened;
- All corroded and darkened terminals are cleaned of carbon deposits, you can use alcohol or emery cloth;
- Reassemble the tool, making sure that all parts of the device are in place, and check the performance of the drill. if nothing has changed, change the part;
- Turnover regulator is filled with compound, so if the part fails, just replace it;
- A frequent failure is the erasure of the working layer under the rheostat. it is better not to repair it, just a waste of time, it is better to buy a new one and replace it.
Many people wonder where to get such a diagram? First of all, it should come with the tool when you buy it, but if there is no diagram, or you have lost it, you will have to look on the Internet. After all, only with its help can you carry out repairs correctly, without errors. By the way, the speed regulator button and the reverse control button are located in different places, so you have to check them separately.
Collector device preventive maintenance
In order to prolong the life of the armature and thus the power tool itself, a few simple rules must be observed. These measures are as follows
- Do not run the attachment at low speed for a long time with a substantial load and do not allow the cutting attachment to bite. If the electric motor jams, a short blocking time is sufficient for it to burn out.
- If it does become jammed, carefully loosen the motor and allow it to run idle for two minutes. During this time, the heated parts will cool down through natural conduction of cooling.
- Observe the time limits for the addition or replacement of lubricants.
- If any vibrations or noises occur, it is necessary to carry out a preventive inspection with disassembly of the housing and cleaning of dirt from the collector and the entire space inside.
If you replace inexpensive parts in time, you can avoid the cost of serious repairs.
Any independent work on the repair of power tools, not only angle grinders, it is recommended not to make until the end of the warranty period. Manufacturers do not welcome unauthorized interference in the device equipment. It does not apply only to replacement of brushes without opening the housing, and in other cases it is better to apply for assistance to an authorized service center.
How to connect the drill button yourself?
Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work with your own hands, observing some important rules. For example, remember that opening the housing can lead to the fact that all parts and loose parts just fall out of the housing. Naturally, this should be avoided, because then it will be quite difficult to put the device back together. To do this, you can gently lift the cover, marking the exact location of parts on paper.
The button is repaired as follows:
- First, the clips for the cover are hooked up, and then it is carefully pulled together;
- All corroded and darkened terminals are cleaned of fouling, for which you can use alcohol or emery cloth;
- Reassemble the tool, making sure that all parts of the device are in place, and check the performance of the drill. if nothing has changed, change the part;
- The turnover regulator is filled with compound, so if the part fails, simply replace it;
- A frequent breakdown is the erasure of the working layer under the rheostat. it is better not to repair it, just a waste of time, it is better to buy a new one and replace.
Many people wonder where to get such a diagram? First of all, it should come with the tool when you buy it, but if there is no diagram, or you have lost it, you will have to look on the Internet. Because only with its help you can make a competent repair, without errors. By the way, the speed regulator button and the reverse control button are located in different places, so you have to check them separately.
How to change the brushes: a few minutes work
But the drill can also fail due to trivial faults. for example, because of the brushes inside the motor. So you can’t do without brushes, and it’s a pretty straightforward job, you don’t even need to have any special knowledge or tools. To do this, we disassemble the device, remove the brush holders from it and replace the parts that are broken. By the way, there are models whose body can not be disassembled. they just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, and then change the brushes.
You can buy these parts at any construction store, and there are also some models that are sold with a set of additional brushes. It’s important that you don’t wait until the brushes are completely worn out. check them from time to time. And that’s because there is a risk of a gap between the bristles and the collector. As a result, this part will begin to overheat and will eventually fall off. so you will have to change the whole anchor, which will come out much more expensive and complicated, and not the fact that you will be able to solve this issue yourself.
As you can see, there are a variety of faults, many of which will be within your power, others will be feasible only for professionals in the service centers. And to reduce the risk of such failures, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of parts and brushes to replace them in time. But if you see that you can’t do it yourself, take your tool to a repair shop.
The main difference drill is the impact function of the IE 1511 BE, which makes it possible to work not only with wood or steel, but also with concrete (there is a special switch “drilling / drilling with impact”). When drilling several identical holes with the FE 1511 BE, the key of fixation of rotation speed can be useful.
Drill button connection diagrams
models can be easily turned into a saw, grinder, scissor, jigsaw and other tools with a variety of accessories. One of the disadvantages of these drills is absence of reverse, which limits their universality to some extent. Well, the advantage is that IE 1511 BE and IE 1211 E have very low price in comparison with foreign models.
ADJUSTABLE FUNCTIONS: special plank for drill depth limitation, electronic control of rotation speed when changing load, switch “drilling/drilling with impact” (IE 1511 BE), button of fixation of selected rotation speed (IE 1511 BE), additional crank.
RPM RPM (under load): stepless adjustment in two ranges. up to 960 rpm and up to 2076 rpm.
DRILLING DIMENSION (max.): on steel. 10 mm; on wood. 10 mm (IE 1211 BE) and 13 mm (IE 1511 BE); on concrete. 13 mm (IE 1511 BE).
WEIGHT (without power cable, chuck and extra. handle): 1.8 kg (IE 1211 E); 1.85 kg (IE 1511 BE).
Of course it is impossible to state so unambiguously that buttons on all drills are connected in the same way, there are drills with reversing, there are direct connection, so this answer will be more introductory than to carry specific information.
Even on drills of the same type there is a difference in connection of the button, depending on the functionality of drills, here is an example of how to connect an old Soviet drill:
Another wiring diagram for a reversible drill, more or less common:
On some reversing drills the following pins are essentially engaged on the button:
Upper part of the button interrupts the pole on the electric motor.
Jack (wires) commutation button drills can be different number, depending on the functionality of the tool, but not less than six. two. 220 (phasanol) mains input. two going to the capacitor and two going to the winding and brushes of the electric motor stator.
If you look closely, you can see short circuits right on the bodies of some of the buttons. precisely and concretely you can see the connection diagram of the button in the manual of the tool (instruction manual)
For example in many Interskol tool buttons, the sockets of the power wire are made round, this already eliminates the other four, two of which go to the stator and two to the capacitor.
Button of the electric drill is connected according to the following scheme:
There are a total of six contacts on the button in which the wires going to the coil of the electric motor are fixed, the terminals or the inputs of the starting capacitor and the input of the power wire 220V are clamped.
Here is a visual picture with signed pins, what to connect.
Button on the drill is the most sore part for those who use the drill in dirty conditions, and especially with dirty hands. No matter how hermetically sealed it is, dirt and moisture get in there, which causes it to jam or burn out the contacts altogether. So I had a broken button, after disassembly it was decided not to repair it and replace it. I had trouble finding a native button, so I had to pick up a similar one and then wire it in a new way. I hope someone will find my knowledge and experience useful.
It should be noted that the buttons can be without reverse, with built-in reverse and with remote reverse.
1) Button without reverse, but with speed regulator.
Connection is quite simple, there will be an input and output, should be indicated by an arrow, just two wires, one of which is “” from the mains and the other output to the winding.
The characteristic feature of this button is that all the wiring is on the case. There will always be two inputs from the mains, indicated by arrows, but they can be located next to each other or at a distance.
On the bottom there should be two more holes for connection, they must be connected by a wire that goes through the condenser. It is difficult to mix up the wires to the capacitor, because in the diagram of the button they should be schematically shown as a gap with two vertical segments. from the return of the capacitor the wire will go to the stator winding.
At the top is the reverse, and it is from him will depart three wires, they are difficult to mix up, you only need to know the rule. they are connected diagonally brush-stator. Т.е. two diagonally to the stator and the brush, and one to the side only to the brush, because the stator goes to the bottom.
The connection diagram of the button-reverse is the same as with the built-in button, but there is one difference, from the button itself to the reverse will depart a wire (in the built reverser it goes inside the housing).
But as a result I wanted to warn you that there are many kinds of buttons and connection schemes can be different.
How to connect a power tool? This question very often arises during the repair of power tools when there is no wiring diagram, the device is partially or completely disassembled, decompacted and in addition was repeatedly, ineptly repaired.
Electrical malfunctions
We’ll begin our description of common breaks, starting with the electrical and switching parts. The electrical compartment in almost every drill is in the handle where the button is located. To get access to it, in most cases you have to dismantle the drill completely. This is not difficult, but it can be difficult to loosen the housing: in addition to a few screws it is held in place by clamps. After halving the housing, note the location of the components and wiring, or better yet, take a picture of it, since the layout can be very intricate.
The main sign of an electrical problem is that the drill simply won’t start. Try and jiggle the power cord with the button depressed where it exits the housing: a wire break in this point will cause 90% of all malfunctions and if it is present, the drill will give you indications of life. You can also use a continuity test to find a power failure.
Another common cause of failure is the failure of the reversing button or switch. Try to test the pins where the wires are connected for switching. A faulty button can be replaced, or you can try to repair it. Unscrewing a couple of small screws that hold the body together gives you access to the inside. Check the condition of the blades (they could be worn or oxidized), and also check the operability of the ejector mechanism, the cleanliness of the circuit-board and the presence of burn marks on the main contacts.
Faults of a small printed-circuit board or a potentiometer inside the button, that serve as a speed regulator, can not be cured by yourself. The drill in such cases either does not turn on at all, with a fully functional contact group, or works at a constant speed. The button will have to be replaced.
Don’t forget also to check the reliability of the crimping of the terminals, the integrity of the insulation, the presence of oxide on the contacts. The wiring diagram of the drill is very simple, the main thing to remember the order of connection wires.
Pros and cons of working without a button
During the use of the electric drill without the power button, there are a lot more disadvantages than pluses. The only advantage of this connection scheme of the power tool is that there is no need to change, repair the switch. But a lot of problems arise in the case of a direct connection of the drill to the mains. For example, the functionality of the device suffers.
No speed or reverse can be controlled without a switch. In addition, with this connection will not be available soft start function, which is equipped with most modern models of high-power electric drills. Also, before each use of the drill you must always plug the power cord into the socket, and after work is completed, which is not very convenient.
With a direct connection, without the possibility of independent speed adjustment, the motor of the device will immediately start working at full power. In addition, the contact groups of the switch, when turning on the power tool took some of the load. If it is missing, both the motor winding and the brushes will be overloaded. As a result, the motor of the power tool will be heavily worn and will fail quickly.
Disassembly diagram
In the process of repairing the presented equipment, the user must be able to disassemble the tool. The assembly diagram of the “Makita 2450” peorator has many nodes and elements. You don’t need to know all of these to do the repair. Here are the most basic elements that are represented by the circuit (“Makita 2450” is a very complex device).
The first is the retaining ring. It is involved in the process of dismantling the chuck cover. Then there is the ring locking device. It holds the ball for securing the auger. It is guided by a washer and a conical spring.
The gearbox is connected to the motor by 4 screws. In the circuit there are many rubber parts, which, when worn out, become a frequent cause of failure.
This knowledge is enough to carry out the repair at home. Next, you should familiarize yourself with the technique of its implementation.
How to change the brushes: work in a couple of minutes
But the drill can not work and because of trivial problems. for example, because of the brushes inside the motor. So, without repair brushes here can not do, and this work is simple enough. you do not even need to have special knowledge and tools. To do this, disassemble the device, remove the brush holders from it and replace the parts that are broken. By the way, there are models, the body of which can not be disassembled. they just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, then replace the brushes.
You can buy these parts in any construction store and there are also some models which are sold together with a set of additional brushes. It is important that you do not wait until the brushes are completely worn out. check them from time to time. And all due to the fact that there is a risk of a gap between the bristles and the collector. As a result, this part will start to overheat and will eventually fall off. so you will have to replace the whole anchor, which will be much more expensive and complicated, and not the fact that you can solve this issue on your own.
As you can see, there are a variety of breakdowns, many of which will be within your power, others will only be able to specialists in service centers. And to reduce the risk of such failures, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of parts and brushes to replace them in time for new. But if you see that you can’t do it yourself, take your device to a repair shop.
The main difference of drills consists in presence at ИЭ 1511 BE an impact function that gives the chance to work not only with a tree or a steel, but also with concrete (there is a special switch “drilling/drilling with impact”). When drilling several identical holes with the FE 1511 BE, the speed-lock button may be useful.
How to connect the drill button yourself?
For the procedure we will need a flat and Phillips screwdriver, as well as an awl. In the absence of the latter, a sack needle or any other thick needle will do. If the model is characterized by small dimensions, you can also use tweezers for more convenience.
- Loosen a couple of screws that hold the power cable.
- Insert the awl into the stator next to the wire and carefully remove the wire.
- Pull out the second cable in the same way.
- If the button is not on the clip, then unscrew the screws and remove it.
- Put the new key in place and connect the wires with the awl as well.
- Set the unit on the drill, not forgetting about reverse.
- Carefully lay the wires and tighten them with screws.
- Close the casing.
In a good half of the cases the wires coming from the stator are different in color. If they are the same, you need to mark them in order not to confuse them when connecting.
Drill Button Diagram
Picture 1. Wiring diagram for the reversing button
shown in the picture.1 button of the drill is equipped with a built-in regulator of motor speed and built-in regulator of rotor rotation direction.reverser.
Diagram of connection of the drill button with RPM and reverse
Actually the connection diagram is shown on the image below.
- On the picture is the most common type of the part in question. The power leads from the mains plug are attached to the terminals, which have a bolt attachment. The others are plugged into the self-clamping pins. If your button is not the same, it is better to make a note of the old one, where it is attached. There may also be a diagram on the body itself, which can also be used as a guide.
- If you have connected the condenser as described above, you will only have two pins left on the underside of the housing where you must plug in the two cables from the stator after you connect the cables to the plug. Usually, they have the same position on the stator as in the picture. Their length should be longer than the other two, so that they can reach their terminals. It makes no difference which wire you plug into which of the two pins.
- Connect the remaining two wires from the stator and the cables from the brushes to the reversing terminals. In this case, the connection is made diagonally: the wires from the stator are inserted on opposite sides into the diagonally placed contacts; and from the brushes as well. It depends on where exactly the wires are plugged in, only the direction in which the chuck will rotate when the reverse trigger is in a certain position. The main thing is to connect diagonally.
This is the wiring diagram. I hope that you are able to connect everything correctly and that the drill works as it should.