How to make a machine with your own hands from a circular saw?
For sawing various lumber in the home conditions an excellent tool is a manual circular saw. This power tool can cut lumber of various sections at any angle. Such a tool perfectly cuts sheets of plywood, organilite or chipboard.
Circular saw machine schematic diagram.
However, the technical capabilities of such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if you make a stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.
It is not difficult to make such reincarnation, and anybody, who needs it, can make a machine from a circular saw. To do this, you simply need to fix it on the prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest variant as a place of installation you can use sturdy building trestle. For long-term use of the machine from a circular saw, it is better to make a solid, welded metal base.
Wooden circular saw machine
To make such a wooden base, you will need:
Schematic of a homemade cutting attachment.
Cut a sheet of plywood about 100×60 cm (can be different). Around the edge of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), glue and self-tapping screws are used to fasten the timbers. Then you attach the tool body to the sheet from the inside and mark the place of its attachment to the tool, as well as the groove for the cutting disk. After that with an electric jigsaw (milling machine is also possible) saw a groove for the passage of the disk, and drill holes for mounting the housing. The legs are bolted to the side bars. The height of the circular saw machine is chosen from 80 to 90 cm. On the place prepared in advance, the housing is fastened on its inner side. Bolts for mounting it must be countersunk (not protruding on the surface). The cover must be varnished or painted.
To ensure that the material is sawn exactly to size, a guide bar is fitted parallel to the saw blade. The block can be attached to the table surface with clamps. Circular saw machine made of wood, ready to use.
Design options
Now it is necessary to become a little familiar with the possible design solutions.
With asynchronous electric motor
For the drive, an angle grinder can be adapted
Output. For the non-professional craftsman, the best option for making a stationary circular saw should be considered the use of a portable circular saw as a drive.
Making a mount for the circular saw guide
To be able to saw wood as best as possible, the stationary saw must be equipped with a guide. It will be a bar for the entire length of the table top, set parallel to the blade of the saw.
For its attachment I prepare 2 pieces of bar and 2 strips of plywood, which I attach along the edges of the tabletop perpendicular to the blade of the saw. Then I measure the table top and trim the edges so that the guide is parallel to the saw blade when it is moved.
Compact table machine
Above mentioned how to assemble a manual circular saw. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary. This process involves making a U-shaped bed from a pipe, as well as installing a cross lever. The lower ends of the structure should bend horizontally in the direction of the saw. They are fastened to the table with bolts. Stability is ensured by additional supports.
The mobility of the lever is provided by sawing the horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed between each other with clamps. Saw blade is attached to the vertical element of the bed with clamps.
Stationary installation
A machine, similar to the factory models, needs a competent attitude in the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the details beforehand. Desktop version of the “circular saw” differs from the stationary one only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the specifics of work and the size of future workpieces. A single treatment can also be done with an ordinary table saw, which can easily be stored in a storeroom or shed after work. But a craftsman who constantly deals with wood will need a stationary installation. Consequently, he needs to make a table for a circular saw with his own hands.
Circular machine has the following advantages:
From the foregoing it can be concluded that self-made circular saws, have a very clear and simple design, and the drawings that can be found on the World Wide Web, will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before the self-made “circular saw” should be considered separately all the necessary elements to understand the nuances of functioning and installation of homemade equipment.
Circular from a circular saw with their own hands
A stationary circular saw is a very necessary tool in the carpentry workshop. for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make various items to order. Such a stationary machine is characterized by the convenience of work. especially long and monotonous. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so it is less tired.
Today in stores machines and tools are presented in a huge selection of models. However, they are too expensive for an ordinary carpenter, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example. the craftsman made a stationary circular saw with his own hands, taking a hand-held circular saw. In what way he did it. let’s see below.
The list of necessary materials: hand circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture head; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.
List of tools: electric jigsaw; hand circular saw; drill; electric screwdriver; hammer; screwdriver; pliers; ruler.
How to assemble a stationary circular saw
As we noted earlier, the author used a hand-held circular saw to make his circular saw. In doing so, he made no changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top. where before the saw cut for the disk was made. He drilled holes and then sawed. Taking plywood and 40×40 timber, made the base.
After that, the author took plywood, sawed out a tabletop. It is better that it be laminated or varnished, with a smooth and even surface. As described, a kerf is made, holes are drilled in the corners for subsequent fasteners.
At the bottom of the table top, we fasten the circular saw, using bolts M-8. In this case, the bolt heads must be sunk into the plywood.
For more convenient work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable stop on furniture rails.
An aluminum angle used as a longitudinal stop.
To adjust it, you should loosen the bolts and move it to the desired distance for further work.
Circular saw from a circular saw with his own hands
The stationary circular saw is a very necessary tool in the carpentry workshop. for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make various items to order. Such a stationary machine is characterized by convenience in work. especially long and monotonous. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so it gets tired less.
Today in stores machines and tools are presented in a huge selection of models. However, for a simple carpenter they are too expensive, so to get out of the situation we have to look for other solutions. One such example is a craftsman making a stationary circular saw with his own hands, taking a hand-held circular. In what way he did it, let’s see below.
The list of necessary materials: hand circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture head; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.
List of tools: electric jigsaw; hand circular saw; drill; electric screwdriver; hammer; screwdriver; pliers; ruler.
How to assemble a stationary circular saw
As we have already noted, to make his circular saw, the author used a manual circular saw. In doing so, he made no changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made the table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top. where before the saw cut for the disk was made. He drilled holes and then sawed. Taking plywood and 40×40 bar, made the base.
After that, the author took plywood, sawed the table top. It is better to have it laminated or varnished, with a flat and smooth surface. As described, made a kerf, drilled holes in the corners for subsequent fasteners.
At the bottom of the table top we fasten the circular saw, using bolts M-8. The bolt heads must be sunk into the plywood.
For more convenient work with the machine craftsman made a movable stop on rails for furniture.
An aluminum angle used for the longitudinal stop.
To adjust it, you should loosen the bolts and move it to the desired distance for further work.
Stationary machine
If the master dreams of engaging in woodworking seriously, then there is only one way for him to go. to make a full-fledged circular installation. Creating such a machine will take more effort and time, but in the process of its operation it will pay off all the costs. The only requirement is a well-thought-out drawing, so it is better to use ready-made diagrams, which can be slightly “adjusted” to your conditions.
Bed
The base of every machine. the frame. is where all the main parts are mounted. It must be stable and reliable, so the best material is the unbeatable metal. Thick-walled angles or the same profile tube are best. Welding is usually used to fasten the parts of a stationary machine. If you plan a collapsible design, you can allow the use of bolted connection, but in this case the mount will be hard to call “strong”: it will need constant testing.
Tabletop
Here too, metal is the favorite. The best materials will be steel or aluminum alloys. A possible option is thick plywood, which is upholstered with sheet iron. The ideal table top for any woodworking machine must have a smooth surface, be able to withstand friction, to withstand the weight of 50-60 kg easily, without the slightest hint of deflection.
It makes a hole for the disk. There are two options that are used in the case of a circular saw:
The second method is preferred for a metal tabletop, as in home conditions, cutting a groove is an operation quite difficult. Attach parallel stop to the table top. In this role, a convenient metal corner is often used. For its attachment also make a hole. The alternative. reliable and powerful clamps.
Motor
The choice of motor for the future of the circular saw depends on what timber is planned to work with it. If discs with a diameter of 150-170 mm will be used, a unit with a power of 0.5 kW will be enough for them. For bigger disks (from 350 mm) a bigger motor is suitable, at least 1,1 kW.
If the circular machine will be outdoors (for example, outdoors under a shed), you can use even a gasoline engine with little power. It is possible to make it removable.
Transmission of rotation
The best drive for the circular saw is the V-belt drive. In this case, 2 pulleys are used: the first on the motor, the second on the drive shaft. The reasons for this choice are safety and convenience: in the event of a minor emergency, the belt will simply slip, alerting the foreman to turn off the unit.
Pulleys with different annular grooves (grooves) or diameters make it easier to adjust the speed of the disc, allowing you to find the optimal mode for different types of wood. It is almost impossible to make the shaft, to which the rotor rotates, with your own hands, so you have to buy or order this part from a turner. The bearings used to mount the shaft must be sealed, otherwise their service life will be short.
Pendulum suspension
Anyone who is not into the gimmick of working with metal, will be able to make a circular grinder, which has a special feature. the pendulum motor suspension. Its convenience lies in the fact that the shaft, motor and blade are all in one common frame.
One side is hinged to the frame, and the other side is held by a screw that can be adjusted if you need to change the height of the blade. The advantage of this system is the possibility to use different disc sizes, easy adjustment of cutting height.
A simple circular saw with their own hands can be made from a variety of tools, but the best option. a stationary model, equipped with a powerful motor. On the other hand, the choice of model depends entirely on the master, on the planned workpieces “favorites” and the volume of work.
You can learn more about the process itself by watching this fascinating
What to do?
The first question is how deep you want to cut? The teeth of the saw blade should enter the material at a certain slight angle, otherwise the cut will be jagged and the work will be dangerous. The angle of entry of the tooth determines the allowable overhang of the saw blade over the working table. For disks with teeth of different profile the sizes of ledge are somewhat different, but, in general, it is not necessary “to push” the disk more than on 1/3 of its diameter. it can “bite” that will create dangerous situation.
So, depending primarily on the required depth of cut, the circular saw with their own hands is made by different types of design; a lot means and the required cutting length. For sawing wood with a thickness of approx. Up to 120 mm, a disc with a diameter of 350 mm or more is needed. The sawing thickness can be doubled by making each cut twice from opposite sides, but then the cut length will need to be beveled. In this case, you need a stationary woodworking machine with a circular saw blade and a planer drum, pos. 1 on fig. The length of the cut on it is determined by the length of the workpiece and the size of the workshop. For the drive is enough asynchronous motor for 1.2-2 kW; electric motor of such power can be found single-phase, 220 V. If, however, you want to build quite cheaply, making unbarked lumber, you already need a much more sophisticated sawmill, not a circular saw.
For clean sawing on site in the course of finishing work (let’s say at the exit) up to 1.5-2.5 m in length, incl.ч. at any angle, a manual circular saw with a guide rail, brand-name (pos. 2a) or self-made (pos. 2б). It is also possible to build a circular table with side support (pos. 3a and 3b). The length of the cut becomes unlimited (within the room), but its depth will not exceed 40-50 mm, subject to its reduction by the thickness of the guide rail or countertop.
amateurs also try to fit angle grinders (angle grinders) and hand-held drills (pos. 4 и 5). The power of a 1300 W angle grinder, in theory, is enough to cut a depth of 200-250 mm. But to put on the angle grinder saw blade larger than regular (usually 120-160 mm) can not be, even if it is designed for high speed. But the real depth of cut will not exceed 30-32 mm; if you “go deeper”, you will get a dangerous “bite”. The reason is the external characteristic of the electric collector motor, see Fig. 1. further.
Circular from a drill is possible only low-powered, to a depth of not very qualitative cutting to 15-20 mm. Why? Because the axial run-out of the chuck of a percussion drill (or peorator) is inadmissible for a saw blade, and accurate impact-free drills are low-powered. Trying to saw with them deeper little by little, limiting the rate of feed of the workpiece is useless. the saw “bites” and tears the material. The reason is the same collector motor.
About Safety
Woodworking machines are hazardous machines. There is no room in the popular article for a summary of the contents of the volumes of specifications and safety precautions, and the home handyman is responsible for himself. That’s why let us briefly show “from the opposite side”: what circular saw machine must not be like to work without injuries. An example of a “work” that violates all the indispensable rules of a more or less safe sawing and hobbing machine is shown in Fig. (electrical part is a separate topic).
Example of wrong and dangerous construction of a circular saw-cutting and boring machine
- A. Circular saw blade without blade guard. This is a common disease of almost all home-made circular saws. Like, keep your fingers away from the saw, use the workpiece pusher, and everything is OK. So, just for your information. now on the Internet you can easily come across a saw blade, made by the methods of powder metallurgy. Bumping into a nail, very willingly breaks into small sharp splinters.
- B. blade overhang is clearly more than 1/3 of the diameter. “Bites” of the jerky workpiece in hands, choppy step cutting are unavoidable. Injuries at work are more than likely.
- B. the power train is also not covered with a cowl.
- D, E. table made of dissimilar low-quality materials. Workpiece misalignment and “binding” of the saw with all sorts of bad aftermath is also quite probable.
The materials used for the construction of the machine:
You can see the building process of the circular saw in
Also we need the axle, the main body bearings, a couple of pulleys and a belt.
A pulley is mounted on one end of the axle, and on the other end there is a flange to mount the circular discs.
Screw the housing bearings to the frame.
From a piece of sheet steel, make a pad mount for the motor.
We make the table top out of steel sheet, it is better to take a thicker metal, so it won’t bend and affect the cutting process.
Under the sheet of steel, the author made stops from pieces of pipe, the sheet should be raised above the axle and bearings.
It goes without saying that the table top must be lifted up in order to change the disc. But the hinged mounting of the tabletop will also allow you to adjust the depth of cut. To solve the problem the author hinged the table top on the sturdy gate hinges. On the other side is a stop in the form of a bolt, this bolt can adjust the angle of elevation of the table top.
For longitudinal cutting of boards, we fasten with clamps to the table, guide angle.
With a circular machine like this, you can cut boards, slats, and saw blanks made of wood.
The entire process of making a circular saw is also shown in this