Joint angle, tricks for tight joints
It is not possible to cut a perfect angle with a blunt blade. Before beginning work, check the blade for sharpness by cutting a 45-degree angle on a small piece of oak or other dense hardwood. If the blade cuts evenly with little pressure and leaves a clean, almost shiny cut with no burn marks, it is a sharp enough blade. For quality
The blade should have at least 40 teeth with runner bits.
Tips on how to get the perfect joint angle.
Even if you make a cut with perfectly right angles of 45 degrees, the corners do not always fit perfectly together on the wall. The corners of the walls may have a deviation during construction, window and door openings in the wall may differ slightly from the size of the frame, protrude or be recessed in the openings. That’s when it starts fiddling with the corners to get a tight fit. In most cases you will be making adjustments at n-degree angles. If the gap in the joint is small (about 2 mm), you will need to trim one corner. If the gap is larger, you will have to cut both boards.
Here’s a trick that will make the corner joint look great, but it only works if you have the side trims installed and you have the top trim ready to install. Apply a thin layer of carpentry glue to each edge of the trim. With a damp (not wet) napkin remove excess glue at the seams, sand the joint with 120 sandpaper, moving the paper in two directions along the seam. The sawdust from sanding will mix with the glue and fill any small gaps. In this way you can remove even any minor differences in the levels between the skirting boards.
If the corner of the connection in the skirting boards has a slight tear in the outer corner of the cut, it can be hidden by rubbing the tip of the cut with a round part of the screwdriver. The curved fibers will mask the gap, and the slightly rounded corner will give less chance of chipping or damage. The best way to fix this problem is to cut corners 1 degree sharper than the actual angle. This will leave a small gap in the back of the corner where it is barely noticeable.
There are many ways to find the angle difference, but most carpenters do this. The angle between the two walls looks less than 45 degrees. On the first bar cut an angle of 30 degrees, now divide 30 degrees and on the two second bar make a cut at an angle of 15 degrees. As you can see from the picture, there is a gap in the joint, so we have to increase the cutting angle to 16 degrees.
The table saw is one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop. A circular saw with a sharp blade rotating at over 4,000 rpm with up to 112 teeth can cause an accident, either directly or indirectly. Directly, when your fingers are in close proximity to the blade; indirectly, when a workpiece is jammed or when wood clippings are thrown by the air flow.
The slotting wedge and safety guard included with every table circular saw protect you from this kind of hazard. Some circular saws are additionally equipped with a safety clutch to protect the machine and the operator in case of a sudden blockage.
A slotted wedge behind and on the same axis as the circular saw blade prevents cut parts from jamming into the slots. The distance from the wedge to the disc should be small to ensure that the gap is optimally open.
The hood is positioned above the saw blade. The hood lifts slightly when the workpiece is reached, and then lowers again to the table when the workpiece is passed. The very possibility of accidental collision of the fingers with the cutting disc is thus excluded.
In the photo on the right, the guard is missing. But this is done for clarity, to show how to use this or that fixture, as well as the saw while working. Of course, the attachments are used with the hood folded back.
The blade guard keeps the hands at a safe distance from the saw blade; the slot wedge prevents the workpiece from being pinched.
Checking the angle
When installing an angular stop on a circular saw table don’t rely solely on the scale with degree distinctions: often the cast or stamped marks are inaccurate as is confirmed by checking with a simple drawing square.
Periodically check the position of the saw blade itself in relation to the table surface. especially after an oblique cut. To do this, turn the circular saw blade to maximum cutting depth and hold the square against the circular saw blade. This enables you to find out in good time whether any of the set screws have come loose from the vibrations of the running engine.
Put the square on the saw blade, and you will immediately see if it is at right angles to the table.
How to saw a board at a 45 degree angle
Hold the angle piece against the plane of the saw blade, and check that the angle piece is set squarely to the blade.
Wood is used in a wide variety of industries. This raw material has always been popular, thanks to its versatility and ease of extraction and processing. Wood is used to make furniture, furnishings and even entire houses.
Every craftsman faces with this material, but, as practice shows, not everyone manages to make a neat cut of the board. There are often chips or nicks on the cut after tools, which does not add to the beauty of your product. So is it better to saw with your own hands or to order?
Many companies offer to saw your boards when buying, besides the price of this service is not too excessive. In the production of sawing boards makes a qualified master on the exact equipment that allows you to get high-quality workpieces of the desired size and shape.
You can of course, and buy the expensive equipment yourself, but is it worth it if you need to saw a few boards. It is only for you to choose, but if you still decided to saw planks at home, then I will tell you how and what is more convenient to do this.
What is the best way to cut?
This is the most convenient tool for sawing boards. Compared with some other power tools, it has a higher capacity. But it is worth remembering that circular saws differ in features and application.
Before you buy a saw, decide what you are going to use it for. The main use of circular saws is cutting or sawing boards.
The depth of cut should be taken into account when choosing a circular saw. Circular saws with cutting depths from 30 to 130 mm are available. It is important to know what board thickness you will be sawing with and on that basis to give a preference to this or that saw.
You should also be responsible when choosing a blade for your circular saw. If you have to make a clean cut you should choose a saw blade with a higher tooth frequency. If the teeth are sparsely spaced the work will be faster but much rougher. It is important that a circular saw produces even, almost splinter-free cuts. Read more about this in my book. Read more about it in the “BOOKS” section.
To start with a circular saw, set the kerf depth equal to the thickness of your board. This allows you to make the most beautiful cut on almost any surface without leaving marks.
But it’s worth remembering that if you’re making a 90 degree cut, the depth of cut will be one, but for a 45 degree cut the depth of cut will be much greater. Then check that nothing obstructs the protective cover, otherwise it simply will not open.
Fix the board, it is necessary that while working it does not slide on the table, this requires a stop along and at the end of the workpiece. By the way, some saws are equipped with a thumb screw, which allows you to set the angle of cut. Usually circular saws have a range from 90 to just under 45 degrees, which allows you to make neat angled cuts.
Do not forget about safety when you work with a circular saw. Always wear safety glasses or, better yet, a full face mask. Remember that almost all tools are designed for right-handed people, which means that all sawdust and other debris will fly out from under the saw from the left side, so left-handed people should be more concerned about the safety of the eyes and respiratory system.
Angle grinder or angle grinder
Some masters advise using an angle grinder, if you have a large amount of work, low quality requirements.
In any case, do not try this method. Angle grinder is designed to give a nice look welding seam or for cutting bricks and without a saw you just can not cope. Cutting boards with an angle grinder is dangerous.
When cutting boards with this tool, masters advise to put on it a disk with jagged edges for a circular saw. Imagine that while working the angle grinder has caught a piece of wood in one of the serrations, you immediately release the power button (those who worked with it know that after turning off the disk will make a few more revolutions) and no one knows where you will find your tool after that, on the floor a couple of meters away from yourself or in your body.
Or, for example, the disk got hot and burst, which is also quite possible, pieces of hot cutting wheel scatter over the entire area, and some of them may land on you too. Other craftsmen use a disk with pobedite, which can also easily end up in your leg.
That’s why it’s better not to risk and to use a tool that is specifically adapted for this work.
To make a straight cut with a hacksaw, you first need to draw a saw trimmer line with a pencil on the board, then, set the workpiece so that you can work with it comfortably, fix it in this position. The next step, you need to set the hacksaw in a position about 60 degrees to the workpiece, guide the saw with your thumb so that it goes exactly along the cutting line.
Start sawing as soon as your notch is deep enough for the saw to “walk” in it without cutting off the mark you can turn it in any comfortable for you position, usually 90 degrees and keep sawing till you get the result you need. If the wood is wet and soft, the teeth of the hacksaw will get stuck in it, making the work more tedious and longer.
To make your work easier, lubricate the tool with soap, which will make your work a lot easier. The first cuts of a beginner do not turn out very straight, so it is better to use a bar, which will serve you as a guide.
If you need to make an angled cut, use a mitre saw. Slots for the hacksaw are made in it beforehand. You will only have to attach it to the workbench, put the part into a special slot and saw at the desired angle. The cut will turn out flat, almost without chips.
In order to beautifully saw the boards it is better to use the help of a qualified master, if you think that you are able to cope with this work, then on no account do not make cuts angular grinder, it is better to use a hacksaw. For clean cuts along the board the best tool is a circular or circular saw.
The important point in the sawing of the boards is the accuracy and precision, it is a painstaking and time-consuming work. The main thing to never forget that any hand, and especially power tools can cause you harm, never neglect the rules of safety, it’s better to reinsure, because health. is the most important thing.
Count the “lift” in reality.
Yes, we already have the size of the “lift” and it is 2.1875 m. But let’s look at our rafter system diagram. It is obvious that our size is not the same as the board that supports the ridge (even if temporarily).
First we need to add to our “lift” the so-called H.A.P., which is equal to the size remaining vertically above the strapping of the wall below the rafters, where we made a vertical cutout (in the photo above).
Count our H.A.P: 223.6 mm (full width of the board standing at 26.57 degrees) subtract 60 mm (our vertical notch) = 163 mm.
Now add to our elevation (2.1875 meters) H.A.P (0,1635 m.), we have 2,35 m.
We are at the highest point of convergence of the rafters at the ridge board. But that’s not what we need. Now we finally get the right board height for the ridge board.
Ridge board height: 2.35 m subtract 200 mm ridge board height = 2.15 m, t.е. 2 m 15 cm.
P.S. The author of the text advises to make the height of the board a little less, because in the real world boards are not perfect, and then trim the board is much harder than somehow put something under it.
Find the total length of the rafters.
After all this fuss I would like to know the length of the TOTAL rafter, t.е. with an eave overhang. Here it is easy.
For example, we need an overhang of 80 cm, so with a 6 to 12 roof down the overhang drops to ½ the length of the svea, t.е. 0,4 m.
Calculate the diagonal of the overhang = 0.16 (0.4 squared) 0.64 (0.8 squared) = 89.5 cm
So the total length of each rafter with overhang = 4 m 89 cm 1 mm 89 cm 5 mm = 5 m 78 cm 6 mm.
A little bonus to the text. The Swanson angle piece deserves a separate video (below). And for those who have imbibed it and decided to buy it, be sure to have on hand the translation of the book that comes with it on sale in English. language.
Personally, it has helped me a lot in the construction of my frame house.
So, I hope that after reading this article you are much clearer how to properly make cuts in the rafters of your frame house. If you have any more questions, feel free to contact me.
Let me remind you that you can not bother with the calculations of the rafters and simply order the construction of a proven construction team. I will be happy to help you.
Uncomplicated at first glance I operation. cutting pipes in practice reveals many nuances and pitfalls. Not so. it is not so easy to cut evenly tubes:
It is very important to choose the right cutting method and equipment for each specific case. It is subdivided into individual, household and industrial
For individual use
Used in homeowners, private construction and small businesses. Deal with small and medium diameters (up to 250 mm) used in systems
Cutters. Used to evenly cut plastic tubing up to 75 mm. Has a toothed mechanism for clean, even cuts. The workpiece is first clamped with a shelf clamp that securely holds the workpiece and prevents it from leaving the cutting line. Circular torch. Suitable for ventilating and sewer plastic pipe up to 200 mm in diameter. The blade is not secateur-type, but a disc that rolls over the surface of the workpiece. The cut is made in a few revolutions. Not suitable for plastic sheet metal, as it can crush a thin metal liner. Guillotine. A flat beveled blade moves in the guide rails and allows you to evenly cut the required length in one pass. Available with electric drive for higher productivity and with manual drive. Metal hacksaw. The classic locksmith’s tool lets you precisely cut the workpiece clamped in the vise
When using it, it is important to drive the saw smoothly, with constant force and without tilting. Burrs forming after the work with a hacksaw should be deburred with a file. Angle grinder, angle grinder
Commonly referred to as “angle grinder”. Any material and diameter can be cut with this multipurpose tool. To cut the pipe with the angle grinder special abrasive cutting-off disks are used. Electric jigsaw. Very popular among home craftsmen tool can cut and pipes, but because of the departure of the flexible blade to the side of the accuracy will only dream of Saber saw. This tool is not yet widespread among Russian craftsmen. Adjustable saw stop and its powerful blade allow you to cut the rolled product even at the weight and close to the wall.
How to cut a pipe evenly
To keep the cut from a general purpose tool straight, special devices should be used to hold the workpiece. These may be templates, vices, or jigs
In addition, it is very important to properly mark the future sawing and while working, make sure that the cutting trimmer line does not go to the side
For industrial use
Such equipment is used in operations where work volumes are high or where large diameters need to be cut. Used to cut evenly:
- Lathe. Suitable for high-precision threading of workpieces, chamfering, making ledges, diameter transitions, and other shaped machining. Allows the lathe and cut threads, both internal and external. Workpiece length is limited by the reach of the machine headstock. Diameter is determined by the outreach of the chuck jaws.
- Belt machines. Applicable for cutting large diameter pipe without removing it from the trench or collector point. Work on deformed workpieces as well.
- Circular saws. Highly automated system with reciprocating saw and feeder. Often included in the production line, is used for high-performance cutting of rolled products into equal pieces.
- Handheld circular saws. Mobile equipment is used to cut material flat on site. Equipped with a multi-functional clamp that enables you to securely hold products of different diameters and cut them precisely without damaging the edges. The rotating work table allows a precise cut at any angle. The most advanced models are equipped with an orbital welding system. This not only allows you to cut, but also to connect the pieces.
Ceiling baseboard varieties and applications
Before proceeding to the question of cutting the product, let’s consider its varieties. After all, the choice of this finishing element depends on whether the room gets the desired visual volume and whether it becomes more comfortable and pleasing to the eye.
Choose the perfect finish to the ceiling joint, which will be in harmony with the design of the room, is not so difficult, because the range of products today is very wide. On sale are ceiling plinths (baseboards), made of different materials: plastic, plastic foam, polyurethane, polystyrene foam, wood and gypsum. All strips may have different colors, texture, profile configuration, and dimensions. Let’s consider the peculiarities of application of ties depending on what material they are made of.
Knowing what kind of skirting board is better to use in the place that needs to be decorated, you will be easier to navigate when choosing a product and pay maximum attention to create your own unique interior design
- Plastic products, in addition to decorative functions, can be used as slots for fixing wall PVC-panels. Such fillets are not glued to the surface, and are attached to the pre-mounted frame with staples or screws.
- Foam planks are preferably used for finishing plasterboard ceilings. They can also be mounted on the concrete base itself, previously plastered. It is the most budgetary option for ceiling skirting, as the product has a rough surface, which is susceptible to contamination. Therefore it is desirable to apply a coat of paint on such fillets after installation.
- Polyurethane decorative elements are used for the final finishing of false ceilings made of PVC panels. The fillet is fixed with a special adhesive for PVC products.
- Polystyrene ceiling skirting is a universal finishing element, as it can be used for finishing of primed surfaces, as well as ceilings coated with plastic panels. Mounting the skirting can be carried out on a special glue or plaster putty.
- Plaster products are often used to add a certain pompousness to an interior, typical, for example, of royal houses. Installation of such plinths is performed on plaster materials, that is, putty or alabaster.
- Skirting, made of wood, is a classic option for decorating ceiling-wall joints. It is the most expensive version of the skirting board, but also the most durable.
Circular saw. high productivity and convenience
Circular saws are the right choice for the job. It has an excellent capacity and allows you to cut a considerable amount of material in a relatively short time, and with high quality. This saw can also make longitudinal cuts in the material, but you need to know how to saw a board lengthwise even.
One of the most important criteria when choosing a circular saw is the maximum cutting depth. There are devices on the market that can cut materials 30 to 130 mm thick. That is, you can pick up a machine for cutting only thin boards, and for sawing bars.
It is also worth paying attention to the cutting tool itself. Blades with a large number of teeth provide a precise and quality cut, but the cutting speed is low. But a blade with less teeth is a good quality cut, but not as good quality.
Now about how to cut evenly with a circular saw. One of the prerequisites for good performance of the work is a good hold on the workpiece. If the material is loosely clamped, the board can “run” when sawing, and the cut will be uneven.
If the circular saw is manual, then all work should be done on a workbench equipped with stops and workpiece guides. It is possible to make such a device yourself, using any table as a base.
Before you start sawing it’s important to set the right depth of cut. Some manual saws have an adjustable side rail that can be used to make a longitudinal cut of the material. If such a device is not available, then use the same workbench.
convenient in terms of work is a desktop circular saw, which is already equipped with everything necessary. guides, locks. Often such equipment also makes it possible to cut workpieces at an angle.
In the process of sawing it is important not to exceed the force on the tool, otherwise the quality of the cut will be poor, the increased load on the saw will lead to rapid blunting of the cutting blade.
What criteria to consider when choosing a sawing method
All of the options, about which we will tell below, allow you to cope with the task, but each of them is suitable for certain conditions, so you need to decide in advance on several factors:
|Scope of work||Naturally, if you need to cut a single board, you can use the simplest devices, but if you have to process a certain volume, then you should choose the method of work more responsibly, because if you make the wrong decision, you can spend on cutting more time and effort than on all other activities|
|Quality||Sometimes this factor is unimportant, but sometimes the reliability and attractiveness of the construction depends on how exactly and qualitatively executed the cut. Therefore it is important to achieve exactly the result that will be optimal for your object and at the same time to spend a minimum of money|
|Nature of processing||Naturally, the sawing of logs on the boards will be different from the work on dissolving boards and will require completely different equipment. Also the choice depends on the thickness of the elements to be treated|
|Type of wood||It’s no secret that different types of wood have different hardness, and to saw the same pine is much easier than oak or beech, in addition, with increasing hardness much more power is required for the same work. We should also not forget about the wear and tear of the equipment|
Important! Sometimes the best solution may be to buy ready-made boards, especially if the amount of work is large.
The special longitudinal-cutting machine is the ideal solution for customers who slit longitudinally all the time and in high quantities
Finding the total length of the rafters.
After all this fiddling it would be nice to know the length of the WHOLE rafter, t.е. with an eave overhang. It’s simple.
For example, we need an overhang of 80 cm, so if the roof is 6 to 12 down the overhang drops by ½ of the length of the svea, t.е. 0.4 meters.
Calculate the overhang diagonal = 0.16 (0.4 squared) 0.64 (0.8 squared)= 89.5 cm
Total full length of each rafter with eaves = 4 meters 89 cm 1mm 89 cm 5 mm = 5 meters 78 cm 6 mm.
A little bonus to the text. The Swanson angle rafter deserves a separate video (below). And for those who have penetrated it and decided to buy, be sure to have at hand the translation of the book, which comes with it on sale in English. language.
So, I hope that after reading this article, it became much clearer to you how to properly make notches in the rafters of your frame house. If you have more questions, please contact us.
There are several kinds of circular saw blades for hand-held circular saws, each of which is designed for particular materials or applications. First of all, discs are distinguished by the number, shape and size of teeth.
Blades with few, usually hard-alloyed teeth are used for cutting hard and soft types of wood in thick pieces. The main disadvantage of these discs; they leave rough edges.
The more teeth a blade has, the cleaner it cuts. Blades with 60 to 112 teeth are used for delicate materials like thin plywood, fiberboard or veneer sheets. The shape of the tooth is also important and has become known as a “coarse tooth”, “Swedish tooth”, “wolf tooth” or “sharp tooth”. The special shape of the teeth allows either cutting at high speed while removing sawdust from the cut, or obtaining a very fine cut. In the latter case the speed of the blade should not be too high. Another noteworthy improvement is the Teflon coating, which prevents the disk from jamming in the wood.
For the DIYer, two circular saw blades are sufficient, one with a coarse carbide tooth and the other one with fine teeth and Teflon coating. A fine-toothed precision blade can be useful for those who work with a variety of materials. Such blades cut not only wood but also glass fibre reinforced plastics and even non-ferrous metals. But the cost of these discs is quite high.
Every modern circular saw blade is equipped with a depth of cut adjustment device. When putting the tool into operation it is very important that the blade is adjusted to the thickness of the workpiece. Follow the rule: the depth of cut should exceed the thickness of the material by half the height of the tooth.
Almost all manually operated circular saws have a plate with a protruding end on the front edge of the platform plate (some machines have the plate replaced with a notch) that helps guide the saw in a given direction.
If the end of the overhang (or notch) aligns with the marking line, the part will be sawn correctly.
It is not easy for the owner of an old circular saw to keep the machine straight. Older models have no dust extraction device, so they collect a puff of wood dust right in front of the guide lug. You have to blow it off all the time. With the latest circular saws visibility is always good even if the machine is not equipped with a dust extractor or vacuum cleaner.
And yet the auxiliary ledge only helps to control the circular saw’s movements, which means that the ledge itself is no guarantee that a clean cut will be made: despite the foreman’s best efforts, the saw can still move to the side. That’s why you should only rely on the overhang if the accuracy of the saw is of little importance.
The overhang (or notch) at the front edge of the circular saw blade platform helps guide it in a defined direction.
Many people believe that the chipboard cladding can be saved from splintering while sawing if adhesive tape is previously applied to the trimmer line of the marking tape. It does help, but only partially, as the photo below shows.
chips in the facing are created even when the saw is guided carefully, though not to the same extent as without the blade guard.
You get a neat sawtooth trimmer blade if you put the part face down, because splinters are only produced when the saw tines protrude from the material.
Adhesive tape on a laminated board does not fully protect the coating from chipping when sawing.
A perfect line for the saw trimmer will be obtained by laying the piece face down.
How to work with a circular saw
A ruler with a stop or a bar
If you need to cut a straight strip from the board, a guide ruler with a stop will be a useful tool. It can be mounted very quickly at the front edge of the circular saw’s platform and makes sure that the circular saw moves exactly in the right direction.
A guide bar
If you want to level or cut a very narrow or wide strip from the board, narrower or wider than the guide bar with its stop allows, you need another guide bar. Not hard to make yourself. To do this, you need to cut one or two strips from 12mm plywood. Solid wood slats are not suitable at all, because the wood warps over time.
Mark these plywood strips so they don’t get sawed or thrown away by mistake, and hang them on the wall. But remember: plywood also warps if stored improperly!
The guide bar is attached to the circular saw frame and slides with the saw, bent end on the edge of the workpiece.
A plywood strip about 10 cm wide serves as a guide and universal stop for your hand held circular saw.
With a slat
Some manufacturers make circular saws complete with a guide bar made of lightweight metal that allows the saw to be guided with great precision. A special clamping fixture secures the circular saw table to the profiled edge of the blade that gives the saw its own direction and prevents it from slipping to the side. These slats are more reliable than a ruler and stop rail or plywood guide bar that can cause the saw to slip sideways.
Saw blade guide plate does not touch the workpiece. This means that contamination that may occur at the base of the platform during sawing will at most scratch the guide bar, but not the part itself.
Slatting strips in various lengths are available on the market.
If you need a particularly long end stop, you can connect several of these bars one after the other using special fasteners.
Corner stops are a useful complement to this guide and allow you to saw parts at any angle.
A wide strip of light metal is like a guide for a circular saw.
Self-made cross support
If you have to saw a board that is only 15 cm wide across, the 80 cm or even 120 cm long guide bar is more of a hindrance than a help. In such cases you either avoid the guide or work with a shorter and easier butt.
You can make such a stop yourself and use it for a variety of purposes. You will need a piece of plywood approximately 25 x 30 cm and two 5×2 cm wooden strips.
Fix the strip length of about 40 cm from below on the short side of the plywood plate, and the second strip length of 30 cm. at right angles to the first one on the long side of the plate.
The long side of the resulting fixture rests against the narrow longitudinal side of the board. The side edge of the plywood plate is used for marking, the short strip is used as a guide for the circular saw. The tool must be positioned so that the sawing blade moves near the marking edge of the plywood plate.
With the self-made support it is easy to mark at right angles to the long side of the workpiece.
Thanks to the homemade fixture, the cutting disc runs exactly according to the markings.
Wall cladding with planks. the work is laborious, but it can be accelerated if the laths for battens sawed to size in bundles of five or six at once. However, a bundle that is several meters long can be extremely “unyielding.”. To “tame” it, it is necessary to fasten the selected strips with two or three clamps or twists and additionally fix the whole bundle on the workbench. This must be done as both hands must be free to operate the circular saw.
It would be extremely inconsiderate to hold the bundle with one hand and drive the saw with the other. Any obstacle in its path, be it a knot or a lump of resin, can cause the cutting blade to suddenly jam. In that case the bundle would inevitably shift and it is unlikely that anyone would be able to hold it with one hand. This means that you won’t be able to saw all the strips accurately.
In short, if you intend to saw several parts at the same time, try to ensure that the bundle is firmly and stiffly supported on the workbench. For particularly long slats that protrude beyond the workbench, additional support is needed so that neither slat springs or slips out of the overall bundle.
Several slats assembled into a bundle, clamp the zwings and secure them to the layout. As a result, one pass of the circular saw is enough to perfectly align the ends of the slats.
Homemade guide plate
The plywood strip used as a parallel stop makes sawing much easier. However, it is even more convenient to work with the guide plate, which the home handyman can produce himself without much effort.
You will need an elongated piece of plywood (120 x 30 x 0.5 cm) and a joiner’s block (100 x 12 cm). Both parts are glued (for reliability, the joint can be secured with plug-in spikes), after which the thin plywood is sawed off from the thin plywood with a circular saw, running along the stop.
This simple fixture lets you cut a workpiece exactly to size without the need to measure first the distance between the saw blade and the support strip and make a marking on the workpiece.
If you drill a hole in the guide plate with a large diameter drill bit, you can hang it on the wall of the workshop. That way the attachment is always at hand and you can always use it without spending time looking for it. This storage method also prevents the plate from warping later on. Lacquer your new accessory with a colored lacquer so that you won’t confuse it with an ordinary piece of plywood and use it for anything else.