How to put a laminate under a battery
Laminate: Factory instructions for laying a bloodless laminate:
How to lay a laminate: what do you need. Laminate with a sky margin larger than the area of the room (meter, one and a half). Laminate substrate (it is better to take a 2 mm cork or a rubber butter with cork crumb (for concrete floors). Foam polyethylene settles and crushes over time). DL of the laminate spell also needs a hammer, a bar, wedges, a bracket for achieving the latter at the wall of the dicks and a knife (but better. Lobzik, since it will be very difficult to cut along the sheets with a knife and cut curly holes or excavations in the laminate)
The surface of the floor for laying the laminate should be even with uneven no more than 3 mm per meter of length. Only a small “fall” of the floor plane horizontally when laying the laminate is permissible.
The laminate is laid in the direction of the main stream of light from the window or, if there are several windows. along the axis of the front door.
The laminate cannot be nailed with nails or screwed with self.tapping screws, but you can glue on the base (plywood) and glue the panels among themselves. When gluing and gluing the seams, the laminate will be less afraid of water (for example, when flooded by neighbors. tested on yourself)
When laying the laminate on the concrete surface, waterproofing is first laid and only then. substrate. On a wooden dry surface laying a substrate.
Due to the moist and thermal expansion of the laminate, it is necessary to shake the gaps of 1 cm from any motionless obstacle (wall, jamb, pipe). If this is not done, then the laminate can stand up with a “hill” and will clap under the feet when walking (a very frequent symptom of low.quality laying of the laminate, which builders write off on the “floating” floor: “it is not fixed!”).
Laminate is first laid in the mind. Then make jambs and platbands. If the door jamb is standing, then the gap between it and the laminate should be 1 cm. The gap is then covered with a platband or skirting board. If the height of the gap under the jamb is insufficient, the jamb is sawn by a knife.off.laminate knife. so that the gap is minimal.
In complex places, the laminate can be cut and then ticked when laying in place.
Under the batteries and in other complex places where the laminate is not laid in the standard way, the rub of the castle of the previous laminate panel is cut with a shirt and the laminate moves to the place at a smaller angle of inclination.
Before laying, the laminate should be laid out in the packaging in the room for 48 hours to set the room temperature. If this is not done, then after laying you can get the cracks on the cross seams. Between the wall and the laminate panels, wedges 1 cm thick are installed. The laminate is laid the upper part of the lock to the wall.
To connect the laminate panels when laying, the panel lifts at an angle of up to 20 degrees and inserted by the lock into the groove of the previous panel. Then carefully drops down. See that the fishing line for the seam trimmer turns out to be thin and even.
First, the first two rows of laminate are collected to avoid skewing the laying line. The next row panels are inserted with a displacement of more than 40 cm. Transverse seams should alternate through a row. So laminate masonry looks more natural. The most spread out of economical layers is. laying the laminate “Christmas tree” when the seams of the neighboring rows go sequentially with a small ledge. such a laminate laying looks ugly.
The laminate panels through a wooden bar is ducked. Acutely! you can hush the edges and angles of Lamin.
Laminate laying. Almost non.waste production. A piece cut at the end. goes to the beginning of the next row. Dominite that neighboring transverse seams should be at least 40 cm at a distance. Otherwise it will be ugly
The last laminate panel during laying is drunk with a bracket. Between the laminate and the bracket it is better to lay the gasket from the cork.
An example of marking the last row of a laminate against the wall.
We attach the skirting board not to the laminate, but to the wall!
You can wipe the laminate with a damp cloth. There are special products to the rest of the laminate and gels for the native of the laminate.
Though the laminate in its mass is stronger than the pine board, the upper layer can be inflated from legs, pebbles and rollers.
Laminate defects are sealed with colored putty paste or tinted with an ordinary felt.tip pen.
Proper laying of the laminate on a concrete floor with a substrate
One of the most interesting types of flooring is the laminate. He has a lot of advantages and there are actually no serious disadvantages. It can be laid in any room and on any surface.
We will tell you how to lay a laminate on a concrete floor and what are the requirements for the base.
The choice of coating
The laminate laying on the concrete floor is carried out on a special substrate laying of the laminate on the concrete floor on a special substrate
- Base (stabilizing layer).
- Filler (layer in which locks are cut out).
- Decorative (a thin sheet of cellulose with a pattern applied to it is glued on top of the filler).
- Protective (thin layer of transparent PVC, protecting the abrasion panel).
Roughly speaking, the quality of the laminate depends on the protective layer. It is he who retains the surface, does not allow it to be sore when walking, protects it from ultraviolet radiation and aggressive chemistry. Typically, polyvinyl chloride, melamine or acrylic resin, aluminum or corundum oxides are used as protection.
A decorative layer is a cellulose or foil with a pattern and texture applied to it. Usually lamellas are made to the color of the tree, but more exotic options are also found.
The filler (bearing layer) is created from HDF, compressed under high pressure with the addition of various impregnations and resins. Its locks are cut out in it, thanks to which two lamellas are connected. The thicker this layer, the better the laminate.
The stabilizing layer protects the planks from abrasion from below and effectively distributes the load on the entire basis. He also protects the bearing layer from moisture.
Types of laminated panels
Everyone knows about the classes of laminate, but few people understand what where to lay. The class is determined by special tests. the surface is rubbed with a special brush that imitates the load from the sole.
The more revolutions the brush withstands the coating without violating integrity, the higher the class of products. The result is recorded in the form of two digits. You can find out the lamella class by looking at the packaging. this information is necessarily indicated by the manufacturer.
Its wear resistance depends on the class of laminate
The first digit means the type of room in which styling is allowed: 2. household, 3. commercial or public. The second figure shows wear resistance. the higher it is, the better the product.
- 21 grade is considered the most inexpensive look suitable for laying in the bedrooms or in pantries (minimum load);
- Grade 22 is suitable for an office and living room (average load);
- Grade 23 can be used in kitchens, in corridors or hallway (increased load).
- Grade 31 is suitable for rooms or assembly halls;
- 32 class is suitable for reception and offices;
- Grade 33 is used in passing places: shops, airports, hotels, etc.
Differences in the design
The laminate is a plank, along the perimeter of which special locks are carved by the type “spike” and “groove”. The planks are simply inserted into each other, like a constructor. But the locks are different:
Laminated panels for adhesive compound in recent years are practically not used. their laying takes a lot of time, and the result is not the best. Its repair is very difficult. it is almost impossible to disconnect the two lamellas without damage.
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The laminate with chamfers is better suited for a living room than for the kitchen, a laminate with chamfers is better suited for a living room than for the kitchen
Lock system is considered optimal for home use. The panels are simply inserted into each other and are knocked out in an inclined position. The thickness of the castle is a weak place. it can be damaged when laying or during operation, and then a gap will occur between the planks. It is unlikely that you can disassemble the surface without losses. even on a high.quality laminate breaks up to 20% of the locks.
The most reliable system is the Click system. which we often call just a “double lock”. She is quickly and just going to insert one panel into the other at an angle of 25-35 degrees to a characteristic click. The thickness of the castle here is quite solid-it does not fail even with multiple assembly and disassembly and does not burst due to the irregularities of the floor.
Requirements for the base
How to properly lay a laminate on a concrete floor? You must understand that the base should be almost perfectly even and without drops of more than 2-3 mm. Otherwise, the locks on the lamellas will not be completely closed, which will lead to the appearance of cracks and bloating the surface.
Pay attention: even if you have an even floor, it is better to pour a new leveling layer of screed on top. She will close all cracks and changes that appear during operation.
If there are cracks or potholes on the surface, then they can be closed with ordinary putty for concrete. If you still decide to fill the screed, then use self.leveling and rapidly setting options. The fact is that the standard cement screed dries for about 20-25 days, and laying a laminate on it until completely hardened is categorically not recommended. Modern mixtures dry up to 72 hours. laying can be carried out almost immediately after pouring.
Be sure to waterproof the surface. This is necessary so that the material is not swollen from moisture. The cheapest waterproofing option is a plastic film. It is rolled out on the base with a overlap of 10-12 cm, the seams are sealed with tape, and the edges rise to the walls in the form of a trough.
expensive and high.quality material. a special membrane. A substrate is laid on the waterproofing on top of the waterproofing, which levels all the tubercles and protects the lamellas from wiping on a hard surface. The substrate can be made of foamed foam, polystyrene foam or technical cork.
Before you go to the store for buying, try to decide on your desires. Measure the area of your room to understand how much material you will need to purchase.
Try to lay the laminate in a checkerboard pattern but without cracks try to lay the laminate in a checkerboard pattern but without cracks
In the case of a classic horizontal layout of the lamellas, you will need 10% of the laminate, diagonal-by 15-25%. Here are a few more tips:
Preparation of the base
But in any case, the following requirements are presented to the basic floor:
- The base should be even, drops of more than 2 mm are not allowed, otherwise, over time, pounds can be sold;
- The floors should be durable and dry.
If the installation is carried out on an old concrete or plank coating, it makes sense to carefully check and restore. In this case, local repair of the screed or verification and replacement of the failed planks is carried out.
After the base is prepared, it is advisable to lay waterproofing. This is relevant for private houses where dampness can come from the ground. And for rooms located above the bathrooms.
Important! The main enemy of the laminate is the effect of high humidity. From this, the coating may swell and crumble. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the waterproofing of the floors in advance.
A simple and inexpensive option for waterproofing the base base is a plastic film. In most cases, it is enough. The installation of the material is performed in this way:
- The film is laid out on the floor;
- To reliably fix the material, you can put on glue;
- Between the canvases, a mutual overlap is made 10-15 cm.
And after laying the joints glue with tape.
Laminate laying begins with a substrate. The best option is the use of polystyrene foam with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. It is better not to use thicker material. when walking the lamella will bend. The substrate is placed in the end. the overlap of the material is not allowed. And the joints of the strips are glued with tape.
Laminate is a floating floor in order to properly lay, you need to follow the two rules:
The panels are placed ahead of the far corner of the room. First, the first row is expelled. In this case, between the panels and the wall, the gap is made using wedges of the same thickness.
The second row is laid with the displacement of the panels relative to the first. Thus, the strips are mounted in a checkerboard pattern. this ensures uniform removal of end locks in neighboring stripes. In order for the locks to be compacted, the panels are fastened to each other through a wooden gasket.
The final stage. installation of skirting boards. They must be attached to the wall, and a gap of 1-2 mm is left between the strips and the floor.
In almost all rooms, you have to put a laminate in places under the battery. Difficulties arise when going around the pipes. You need to do this in the following sequence:
- the bar is put in place and moved to the pipes;
- At the end with a pencil, marks are made for holes;
- The same bar rests against the wall through the substrates and the depth for drilling holes is noted on it;
- The label is connected by the square;
- holes of the desired diameter are drilled in crosses.
After that, the bar is cut along the axes of the obtained holes. Most are mounted as usual. on the castle. And less sits on glue. After that, you can install a plastic plug on heating pipes to close the drilled holes.
Thus, it turns out without problems to put a laminate in difficult places. The main thing is to gently make markings. otherwise you can ruin the material.
Laying a substrate and waterproofing
Before laying the laminate, the surface is covered with a waterproofing layer. For these purposes, polyethylene is more often used, but you can use film waterproofing material. Fleet canvases are spread over the entire surface of the floor with a 20 cm wall. Between the canvases, an overlap up to 15 cm is provided. The canvases are connected with adhesive tape, and a substrate is laid on it on top.
Raised a waterproofing film. Photo. HGTV.com
Poppable polyethylene is used as a substrate. Its styling is carried out similarly to the film. The lumberry canvases spread overlapping, and then glue among themselves. When using polystyrene, the sheets are laid “scope” and glue the joints with adhesive tape. The canvases of the cork substrate are spread out, placed among themselves, and are connected by adhesive tape.
Parsing the joints of the substrate. Photo. DIYnetwork.com
Other elements and decor options for pipes and radiators
In addition to pipes in the heating circuit, radiators are usually present. For their decoration, overhead or hinged decorative elements can also be used. The assortment of these elements is great and allows you to use them both separately and in combination with pipe overlays.
If you use pipe overlays and radiators made in the same style, you can not only disguise all the visible sections of the heating system, but make them full details of the design of the room.
However, you can use other masking options.
- Hide the heating system into the walls. it is possible only during the overhaul of the room. Strings are laid in the walls, where pipes and radiators are laid.
- Close the elements of the heating network of a false wall. In this case, the pipes are completely hidden, and the radiator is closed with a grill or screen that passes heat.
- Pipes are laid in the boxes of the guide and closing gutters.
- Pipes located along the floor are hidden in a box.
- Wrap pipes with a heat.resistant cloth, hemp or jute rope. This option is not suitable for any style, but can be used to decorate both the new heating network and the old.
- Paste the wallpaper, having previously wrapped a heat.insulating material. a suitable option for a heating riser located inside the apartment, if you need to reduce its heat transfer.
- Color is the cheapest and oldest way to decorate the heating system.
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Most of the listed methods leads to a decrease in the effectiveness of the heating of the room and complicates the maintenance and repair of the heating system. But simple staining does not reduce the risk of getting a burn, touching an overheated pipe or battery.
How to get around the pipe when laying a laminate? 6 ways
Around the heating pipes, the laminate should be laid with a gap of 2. 10 mm.
The position of the pipes is noted on the panel and a hole is made taking into account the required clearance.
In order to do this beautifully and aesthetically, you need to choose the option of bypassing the pipes depending on the material of the pipes and the geometric location, take the joints.
Depending on the cleaning of the pipes from the surface of the wall, the position of the joints of the laminated panel, different methods of pruning and installation of the structure are used.
We offer 6 ways to circumvent the heating pipes with a laminate
1 round hole coincided with a natural joint or adjusted so that it coincides
Picture.1 If the heating pipe falls on the joint of the panels and the pipe is not collapsible and there is no way to grow it, then they make a neckline and connect them in a traditional way.
2 transverse neckline
Picture.2 a) b) c) if the pipe does not get to the joint and it is not collapsible and there is no way to grow it, then first they make a round hole and an electric cutter corresponding to the operating cut, and then collected as a scheme with a possible gluing
3 longitudinal cuts on the back
Picture.3 a) b) c) if the pipe does not fall to the joint and it is collapsible and there is no way to grow it, then holes and long cuts on the back make in the panel.
4 Standing the laminate from above with only round holes using dismantling and mounting the battery
Picture.4 If it is possible to disassemble the pipe. then you need to make sure that there are only holes for the pipes without a longitudinal or transverse saw
- 1) turn off and drain water, dismantle the battery,
- 2) make only round holes
- 3) put laminal on the tops on the pipes
- 4) make the reverse installation of the battery
Rude cutouts and the use of special decorative plugs
Picture.5 If there is no way to gain and disassemble the pipe. then you can make coarse straight or trapezivoid cuts with large gaps, which can then be hidden with special plugs (overlays, sockets) under the pipe to hide the clearance, they come in different colors/sizes.
6 heating pipes leave the wall
This is the best option. t to the ineffects in general, the removals in the floor and laminate, t to the heating pipe will leave the wall
Picture.6 If it is possible to increase (move) the pipe into the wall. then you need to make the pipes not come from the floor, but from the wall
How to make a hole for a pipe in a laminate?
The base of the laminate is either a wood-brown plate, or a dense wood-fiber slab, unless of course this is a vinyl laminate.
That is, in fact, the wood is drilled and the laminate of wood on wood is drilled, you can buy a crown for wood,
The thickness of the laminate is not large, so the spiral drill is not necessary, the feathers will cope (the feather drill will not be drilled to a greater depth, it does not drive the shavings to the surface).
Most often, you need to drill a laminate under the risers of heating, perhaps you will not get to the edge of the laminate, and just cut the hole of this little.
The laminate must be dissolved (cut) in width, that is, the hole on two halves of the laminate
And then here is such a decorative pad
Marking can be made according to the template, that is, take the cardboard, mark the drilling point at the beginning on the template and then transfer the markings from the template to the laminate.
You can immediately use a roulette and ruler to mark the laminate itself.
The drill at the entrance can “take a walk” I usually make a recess under the drill with an awl with an awl.
Next, insert the drill into the drill, drill without impact.
The first hole (first pass) by a drill smaller diameter, the second hole of the necessary.
First and most affordable. Draw the desired diameter on the laminate with a circul.
The metal for metal, without going beyond the diameter of the main feature, drill the screw holes, for example, a 8 mm drill.
Then, on the drilled holes, you should go through a 10 mm drill.
Inner small diameter should fall out (fall out).
It remains to carefully process the outer diameter.
The second option. to do this operation (instead of drilling) a thin and acute chisel, however, a chip or crack may form.
The third option is more reliable, but it costs money. Buy a cutting circuit or “ballerinka”.
Pour into the electrical, preferably low.proof, drill and begin to drill the right radii.
Below photography of the cutter circul and “ballerina”.
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It depends on what diameter you need a hole.
If small, for example, for a pipe from the battery, then you can buy a force drill, a feather drill (for drilling holes for the door handles) or a drill for articulated products (for drilling round recesses into a wood-based stove). Personally, I did not try to drill them on a laminate, but with wood and with a laminated wood-brown slab (laminated woody plate) they are fully cope with. Pre.measure the radius of the pipe to select the right drill. Although on some site I read that they do not make a hole under the battery pipes in the laminate, but cut a semicircle from the edge of the laminate plate.
If you need a larger hole, you can ask a drill of the desired diameter in the construction store. If you do not find, you can draw a circle of the desired diameter on the laminate, then hang up a lot of small holes with a small distance between them along the perimeter of this circle. Then, between these holes, drill more holes, reducing the distance between the two holes. When the distance between the two holes becomes very small, you can dig up with something sharp and then knock out what inside the circle.
How to install the last row of laminate panels
Cases when the last row is laid in a whole laminate strip, single. Most often it is required to install cuts smaller than a whole panel. In order to perform this work for sure, it should be noted on each cutting panel of several points, moreover, with a tolerance of 1 cm and directly in place, since the walls are far from a perfectly flat surface, then connect the points with a line and cut off the excess electric power along it.
Before cutting the next part, you need to install the previous. To besiege cuts to place, you can use the mount. At the same time, in places where it will rest against the wall, you need to put at least a laminate wreck or other hard but not dirty walls.
Before you start cutting the coating material, you need to completely tuck it into a mounting baguette on the walls. Only a small area that adjoins the obstacle is not refuel. About 20-30 centimeters should remain free on both sides of it. After that, you can proceed to the work on circling communications and installing a decorative pad.
Nothing particularly complicated is to cut a film or fabric. However, it is necessary to do this so that then you do not have to change the entire structure due to the incorrectly selected place of the incision or damage to the material. The film is very easy to “spread” and you need to cut the coating extremely carefully. To do everything right, it is enough to be guided by simple rules:
- It is necessary to cut the coating only after it will be tucked into the baguette as close as possible to communications that need to be circumvented.
- The slot is made where the pipe is closest to the wall.
- It is necessary to control the depth of the cutting, it must be minimal. At the end of the line, a cross.shaped neckline is made that will ensure free close the edges of the film around the pipe.
- Excesses are carefully trimmed, leaving a reserve for dressing in a decorative pad, or simply getting inside.
After the cut is made, the coating is finally tucked into the fastener on the wall and move to the installation of a plastic part, which will hide the joint and give the connection a more aesthetic appearance.
Longitudinal cuts from the back
Picture.3 a) b) c) if the pipe does not fall to the joint and it is collapsible and there is no way to grow it, then holes and long cuts on the back make in the panel.
Planting laminate from above with only round holes using dismantling and mounting the battery
Picture.4 If it is possible to disassemble the pipe. then you need to make sure that there are only holes for pipes without a longitudinal or transverse saw
- 1) turn off and drain water, dismantle the battery,
- 2) make only round holes
- 3) put laminal on the tops on the pipes
- 4) make the reverse installation of the battery
Power tool for processing laminated coatings
The circular saw is used to cut the laminate only in a straight line.
You need to get acquainted with tools that are more adapted for processing laminate. Of course, power tools are much better for modern material. over, almost any home master has them. The electric jigsaw works with high performance. Using it, you do not make noticeable efforts, but get high.quality panels.
Other electrical devices for wood processing should not be used. The saber saw (electric hacksaw) differs from the usual knife.haired woman only by the presence of an electric motor that accelerates the process, but does not improve quality. The circular saw is unlikely to be used with figure cutting, and its saw disk is not adapted for thin work. Separately, it is worth mentioning the grinder, which are recommended to cut the laminate some “experienced” advisers. This tool is designed to process completely different materials. True, there is a special tool. a cut on a laminate. But it is advisable to purchase it only if you are engaged in laying laminated flooring at a professional level.
If you choose a wood.based flooring, then people often give their preference to natural parquet or a cheaper, but no less visually pleasant option. laminate. Such material is characterized by increased resistance and features that will even exceed natural solutions for operation.
In construction stores you can find different laminate design. World.class companies can offer end users a wide variety of textures that will simulate natural surfaces, for example, trees of various types.
Such a coating has become popular largely due to the fact that it is very easy to lay a laminate using a castle system. Also, such coatings are quite easy to dismantle and install again.
Laminate is quite easy to lay and, if necessary, cut, armed with special tools
The coating is laid in rooms where increased patency is observed. This is largely due to the fact that the laminate has increased indicators of wear resistance, and the loads are not terrible. If you lay in a bedroom or living room, then the tones of wood of warm shades will create a cozy atmosphere, and thanks to resistance to water, you can not be afraid that fungus or bacteria will develop in the kitchen.
How to lay a laminate on a wooden floor: step.by.step instructions
To carry out work efficiently, you do not need to be a professional. It is enough to study the instructions and recommendations from the manufacturer on the packaging. Laying a laminate on a wooden floor with your own hands consists of such stages:
On a cleaned dry base, put a substrate
over, it is important to handle the substrate carefully, so most often it will be laid not on the entire area, but in rows as the panels are laying. As a rule, sheets are placed perpendicular to the direction of installation, but you can put along
The main thing is to place the ranks in a checkerboard pattern so that the transverse joints do not match. The first row of laminate is not difficult to lay. they have elements, most often one must be cut in size. It must be remembered that it is necessary to leave a gap of 5 to 10 mm at the edges, this is a prerequisite. The distance to the wall should be the same. To do this, you can use both special spacers and any improvised means. pieces of wood, cardboard, etc. D. The second row is located with a displacement. The minimum run between transverse joints is always indicated on the package, but it is better to do it as much as possible. This will increase the stiffness of the structure. Carry out the work with assistants. first combine transverse joints and make sure that they got up tight. Then start the ledge under the previous row, tightly connecting it along the entire length, then carefully snap. Be sure to look at the connection along the entire length. If there is a slot somewhere, gently fling the panel through a wooden spacer. Thus put the floor in the entire room. Most often, the panels of the last row must be cut along, and their installation causes certain difficulties due to inconvenience. It is best to use a special installation of plastic blade in this case. If this is not, you can do without it. Cut the row so that the centimeter remains to the wall, insert the lock at a comfortable angle, then carefully lower the panels, controlling so that the seam does not disperse. After laying the laminate, fix the skirting board. Most often use plastic products with a cable channel. You can start both from the corner and from the door. Fix to the wall with screws through the holes that are in the elements, having previously removed the plug. When cutting, remember that you need to leave a small supply for connectors, corners, etc. D. It is convenient to cut with a hacksaw for metal. it quickly and definitely cuts plastic.
It is easy to lay a laminate on a wooden floor if you prepare everything you need and carry out work on step instructions. To navigate the nuances even better, you can watch a video where everything is shown clearly.
Choosing a laminate substrate
The substrate is of rolled and sheet types, synthetic and from natural components. For convenience, it is more comfortable to work with a rolled type lining, since the sheet needs to be glued with tape so that it does not fly apart. In terms of technical characteristics, the synthetic substrate according to sound-shumoisination is slightly inferior to natural materials. I advise you to take 3 mm thickness, it helps to smooth out some irregularities on the basis. The concrete surface of the floor implies a synthetic substrate for the flooring. For a plywood base or from other woody composites, a litter or coniferous is taken underlying the litter.
I recommend that you pay close attention to installation management. Such memos are invested in packaging with panels
It is worth turning the gaze to the appearance of the key compounds and follow the instructions for docking the rows of planks for laying among themselves, since there are different types of locks used in the assembly of the floor. When using the flooring scheme of one type of locking connection to the floor with another assembly method, you can break the locks and further normal operation will be impossible.
I want to note, sometimes we come to an object where customers did not master the laying of the laminate with their own hands. Sometimes we correct the situation after crafts of low qualified masters or universal workers. Typically, the stumbling block is the second row, the sawing of the material is made with chips, the distance to the wall is large (the floor skirting does not cover the gap), the run through the ends of the panels is not carried out. How to avoid when laying the laminate of these shortcomings, I tried to describe.
When the holes for pipes on one panel is located, the following actions are performed:
- try on the panel to the site of the docking, apply marks indicating the centers of the holes;
- measure the exact distance of the removal from the wall and the adjacent panel, taking into account the locking device, transfer the indications to the processed surface;
- Using a drill with a crown of the required size (pipe diameter and technological intervals), a laminated panel is drilled on both sides to exclude the collapse of the edges;
- Electrically, a transverse cuts are made with a small canvas and the seats are separated from the panel;
Important! Work is allowed only by a serviceable electrical tool, while ensuring compliance with technical security measures. When chips get into the cornea, the eye is necessarily immediate contacting a profile doctor.
- The panel is laid in a regular place, a laminate around the pipes is joined on the back, and the locking system is adjacent;
- When connecting surfaces, the use of a small amount of adhesive is acceptable;
- If there is no electric tool, a regular jigsaw is used. the process will be long, but the result will turn out the same;
- Installation of subsequent laminate panels will give the desired structure of the structure.
When the places of placement of heating communications with surfaces of two panels are coincided, the work is carried out in the following order:
- To ensure the rigidity of the coating, the panels are joined in a checkerboard pattern, so the floor surface is collected, but not fixed with locks, to the junction with pipes;
- measure the distance for both panels to the plane of the wall, carry out trimming (one will be longer, the other in short);
- Design the docking places with pipes, taking into account the previously given parameters, while the plane of the working surface is connected by a locking system without lining;
- In any convenient in the above method, technological holes are made;
- The landing parts of the surface are disconnected with a perpendicular sawing to get around the pipes;
- Install the panels for seats, circling a part of the plate for the docking around the heating pipes;
- put the subsequent rows of laminate.
With professional laying of laminated flooring near the pipes, a method is used to exclude additional transverse cuts. For this, an accurate fitting of the canvas is carried out along the entire length of the styling at the place of communications. Calculate in such a way that the docking places coincide with the location of the technical holes.
From the plane of the wall of the pipe are usually removed by 60.0. 100.0 mm, so picking up a wrapping of the desired length after a previous fit and installation of panels will not be difficult. Surfaces are joined by locking systems without lining, marking, cut. So the design at the junction of the pipes will become more stiff.
After installing the flooring from the laminate in the entire room, aesthetic design of the joints with pipes is carried out. For these purposes, acrylic sealants of the desired tint are used by simple filling of joints. After that, it is possible to install decorative linings, which are widely represented in the construction markets.
Attentive attitude to all stages of installation of laminated flooring, starting with the preparation of the base of the structure, will ensure its prolonged use without changing the quality of the surface of the material. If you do not have enough knowledge to carry out this work, the gaps can be easily filled in by turning to technical documentation or professionals, which will save personal time and exclude typical errors.
The video material presented below demonstrates the phased installation of laminated flooring.