How to cut a plastic corner for a window

Why do you need to fasten the corners to the slopes

Let’s start with the most important. why is it necessary? What role do the corners play. only decorative or do they have more serious functions? Let’s not argue with the fact that if you frame the slopes of doors or windows with special decorative elements that fit perfectly into the design of the room, then the interior will immediately change for the better.

plastic, corner, window

Corners protect slopes from damage

But besides this, they also perform a very important protective function. Sooner or later, you have to carry bulky things through the opening, which is fraught with damage to the corners, and you can simply accidentally touch the outer corner and damage it. There can be a lot of situations, most importantly, the result is the same. a damaged surface and, accordingly, a view. In addition, as practice shows, most often the wallpaper begins to flake off precisely in these places. So it is best to protect the outer corner of the slope with a decorative element that will also transform the interior.

Corners are not only protection, but also a neat aesthetic appearance

How to cut correctly

Before discussing how to attach the corners to the slopes, you should learn how to cut them correctly. After all, this stage of everything is the most time consuming and, perhaps, even the most important, since it depends on how much their edges will join, and this directly affects the aesthetic appearance of the entire room. The best way to do this is with a fine-toothed hacksaw. First, you need to measure the length of the opening, then we put marks on the corner itself so that the segment corresponds to this parameter. Then we cut off the part that will adjoin directly to the slope strictly according to the marks, and the part that will be against the wall at an angle of 45 °.

Use a fine-toothed hacksaw to trim the corner.

Plastic, wooden or MDF. which ones to choose?

Making sure that the installation of corners is not just a whim, but a necessity, we will study the construction market in order to make the right choice. These products are divided into types depending on the material from which they are made. So, the corner can be plastic, wooden, bamboo, made of cork or MDF. Absolutely each type has its pros and cons, we will consider them in more detail.

Plastic corners are made by hot folding a sheet of polyvinyl chloride. Basically, they have the same shelf width. from 10 to 40 mm in 5 mm increments. However, there are asymmetric specimens, for example, 10×25 mm, but regardless of this parameter, the angle between the sides is 90 degrees. If it is necessary to transform the arched opening, then this is done by means of a special flexible profile. Their advantages can be called a relatively low cost, they do not need painting, unlike the same tree.

The next type is cork corners. Such decorative elements are quite often used for arched openings, but this does not mean at all that their use is limited only to this area. They can also be used for finishing slopes of various shapes. The cork has a number of advantages, including strength, fire resistance, practicality and environmental friendliness. In principle, this material has practically no drawbacks, except that if your pet wants to sharpen its claws on it, this will damage the surface.

It is also worth noting wooden and bamboo products, which will always be signs of excellent taste and will fit into almost any interior. In addition, we must not forget about their environmental friendliness. True, such elements are somewhat more expensive than their counterparts from other materials, and besides, they often need painting. A material such as MDF can also be compared with natural wood, only it costs significantly lower, because wood dust is used to create it.

Required tools and materials

When the doors and windows are installed, it is necessary to deal with the finishing of the slopes, as a rule, this is the final stage. To hide small roughness and give a complete aesthetic look, many use ready-made corners. How to properly cut and glue a corner made of plastic, cork or MDF? Below are detailed recommendations for their installation.

What glue to use

In addition to the corners themselves, we also need an adhesive composition with which we will fix the selected element. When choosing it, it is worth remembering that quite often, especially if it is necessary to glue a narrow product, the glue seeps out from under it and, naturally, falls on the walls. As a result, the latter can be damaged, which, accordingly, will negatively affect the appearance of the room as a whole. Therefore, you should choose such an adhesive composition, the excess of which can be removed from the surface.

Basically, the corners are glued to new slopes, but nevertheless, check that the surface is relatively flat, since no decoration can hide large bumps. It should be free of foreign objects such as nails, self-tapping screws, etc. It also needs to be degreased, for this purpose white spirit is suitable.

Photo gallery: finishing materials

It can be seen that the assortment is quite extensive, and there is plenty to choose from. But what should be guided by this? Of course, no matter how we would like, but almost always the budget is limited. Therefore, first of all, we have to proceed from our financial situation. As mentioned above, plastic products have a very reasonable price, while their appearance is not much inferior to analogues made from natural materials. But, in addition to the price, you should also pay attention to the fact that these decor elements harmoniously fit into the design of the room.

For arches, you should purchase special arched corners of different sexes, they ideally retain their position when bent. Please note that the wider the sides of this element are, the more loads it can withstand.

How to cut and glue corners to door and window slopes

Advice

There are several recommendations that must be considered when choosing and installing plastic slope corners.

  • It is necessary to buy finishing material only after all measurements have been made, when all the parameters of the slopes are clear. For 90 degrees, a rigid profile is suitable, and for angles with large deviations, a flexible folding product should be used. In addition, choosing the correct profile length will effectively save money when purchasing it.
  • The decorative material should be chosen after mounting a window or door, when it is known in what condition the openings are. This makes it easier to select the profile view.
  • It is necessary to consider what type of room decor is needed for. If a plastic product with increased wear resistance is required, it is more practical to mount a wide corner piece, which is particularly durable. And small corners are in perfect harmony with the interior of the room.
  • If the flexible corner does not hold the shape given to it, it is better to refuse the purchase.
  • Plastic corners are quite delicate material, therefore, in order to avoid cracks during cuts, it is advisable to use scissors or a hacksaw for metal.
  • When the assembly of coal slopes takes place in an apartment with already completed repairs, for the effect of greater fixation, it is necessary to clean a narrow strip around the entire perimeter of the opening to be decorated from any coating.
  • To glue the corner piece on a plastic surface, it is better to take a “second” glue-gel type agent. On a surface covered with plaster or drywall, it is preferable to use “liquid nails”.
  • Installation of decorative corners is carried out only after the completion of all finishing processes.
  • During installation, it is important to observe the correct joining of the material in order to avoid unnecessary work with gaps.
  • When purchasing material, you should make sure that the profiles are absolutely even, with symmetrical sides and without deformation.

If you do not follow all the rules for ensuring stability when installing plastic corners, their practical and aesthetic function is lost.

For information on how to install a plastic corner for slopes, see the next video.

Dimensions

Corner parts go on sale with narrow strips with lengths of 2600, 2700, 2800 and 3000 mm with shelf parameters from 10 to 100 mm.

Depending on the scope of application, corners with different sizes are used:

  • for arched openings take 517 mm, 1020 mm, 1525 mm;
  • to create a flawless joint, you will need a T-profile with dimensions of 1210 mm, 1810 mm, 2010 mm, 2210 mm;
  • to strengthen the slopes, you will need a corner from 2020 mm to 5050 mm in size;
  • for slopes on windows, small corners of 1010 mm or 1515 mm are taken.

How_attach_plastic_corner_to_window

Plastic (PVC) corners are very widely used in interior decoration, they are installed on the slopes of plastic windows, they frame the outer corners of the walls and the slopes of doorways. In this article, we will take a closer look at the process of installing a PVC corner on the slope of a plastic window, and also consider how to make a neat joint between two corners.

Step 1. Making the markup. We need to attach a PVC corner to the slope and make a mark along the edge of the vertical slope:

The minimum length of the applied angle (L) must be greater than the height of the slope (a) by the width of the angle (b), taking into account a small margin (c):

For example, if the height of the slope is a = 1500 mm and the width of the corner is b = 30 mm, then the length of the corner must be at least a b c = 1500 30 15 = 1545 mm.

Step 2. Make a cutout on the PVC corner, removing one edge, as shown in the photo below:

We apply a corner to the slope:

The corner fits perfectly, you can proceed to the next step.

Step 3. The plastic corner is glued only to the slope, this is enough for fixing, so we apply glue only on one of the edges.

“How to glue a PVC corner?”

As glue, you can use “Moment Montage”, “QUELYD Masterfix” and their analogues. It is not recommended to use super glue, as it will be almost impossible to correct mistakes.

Glue is applied to the inner surface of the corner in a dotted manner or in a thin strip:

We fix the PVC corner with masking tape (while the glue dries):

Step 4. Repeat step 1-3 for the right slope:

Step 5. We mount the corner on a horizontal slope. The length of the corner is taken with the same margin as for the vertical one, but taking into account both sides. Marking is also performed, and then cutouts are made and the corner is glued to the slope:

Step 6. Mark the place of the cut. The corners will mate at a 45 ° angle:

Step 7. Carefully cut two corners at once. It is very important that the knife is sharp:

Step 8. Cover the joint between the corners with white acrylic sealant. After the glue dries, remove the masking tape. Installation of PVC corner is completed.

When completing repair work, the question often arises of how to choose the right plastic corner for the slopes. After all, you always want the interior of the house to please the eye with an elegant and relaxed design.

Features of the

To give the inner corners of window and door openings the desired and neat shape, special plastic corners for the slopes are installed. This finishing material is part of the decoration and is needed to hide the corner gaps that arise when using materials of different textures. The corners are assembled at the final stage of the renovation and completely transform the decoration of the windows and doors. They not only bring a graceful touch to the general atmosphere of the house, but also create a protective function.

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Corner parts for slopes are made by hot bending PVC sheets using a special technology, due to which they become strong and durable.

They are used in various home decorating jobs and are necessary for:

  • facing of window and door slopes, arched openings inside the apartment;
  • protection of corner wall panels during plastering or wallpapering;
  • when laying tiles.

PVC corners have many advantages:

  • they can close the gaps of any materials at an angle of 90 degrees;
  • can be used for a long time (service life. up to 25 years) and at the same time do not lose their basic properties;
  • easy installation using glue, which can be done on your own, subject to the correct calculation of the cutting;
  • plastic material, convenient for cutting;
  • relatively low cost;
  • insignificant mass that does not load the slopes;
  • do not require additional painting and processing;
  • protect corners from wallpaper wear;
  • do not lend themselves to the influence of ultraviolet radiation, therefore they do not fade and can be used for a long time;
  • thanks to the huge number of colors and shapes, they perfectly match any interior and add integrity to the entire design of the room.

The disadvantages include some fragility of the material, so you need to cut it carefully and with special tools. Also, corners do not tolerate high temperatures and, when ignited, emit toxic gas, which negatively affects the state of human health.

Manufacturers offer different types of PVC plastic corners according to the size and scope.

  • Standard, or P-profile. It is used to strengthen window and door slopes, and it is recommended to install it at the initial stage of installation of slopes. The purpose of this profile is to decorate and protect the outer corners from deformation. It also helps to hide gaps between coatings, which do not connect very tightly.
  • Versatile, or L-profile. It is used when installed on curly or arched openings. Such a profile is a flexible angle, the flanges of which converge at an angle of 90 degrees. Very easy to mount, because when bent, it keeps the desired position for installation well.
  • F-shaped. It can be easily attached to the end sides of the panels, even without glue, since it has a special jumper. Unlike other types, such a profile can be easily removed while painting walls or gluing wallpaper. The main purpose of this piece is to hide the gaps between the wall panels, as well as the decor of the openings. In addition, it acts as a platband, which frames a door or window along the perimeter.
  • T-profile. It is used if you want to achieve the perfect joint boundary between the slope and the panels. It flawlessly combines various finishing materials, which have different types of texture, and can be easily fixed on any surface. When laying tiles, it hides the unevenness of the tile at the joints with a flat base of the floor.
  • Removable. This type of corner piece has a latch and has increased ductility. It can be easily bent 3–6 mm. It is not necessary to remove them during repairs. you just need to fill the wallpaper with a spatula under the corners. This allows assembly to be carried out much faster.

There is also a self-adhesive version of PVC corners on sale, which is versatile, since you do not need to buy glue separately for it. In addition, it has good flexibility, which makes installation extremely easy. For the convenience of the user, they are often sold in rolls up to 50 meters long, and a part of any desired length can be purchased to avoid seams.

In repair work, plastic perforated corners are also used. Their purpose is to strengthen and protect the inner and outer corners from damage and cracks. Often this type of material is used to give greater strength to protruding joints and level the surface.

By the type of finishing processes, internal and external PVC corners are distinguished. In turn, the outside angle can be 90 or 105 degrees. The 90-degree corner is attached so that only one side of the edging is visible, and the 105-degree corner is mounted with both shelves up.

By their structure, the products are divided into a rigid structure and a soft, or flexible, folding profile. The rigid structure is a classic rectangular profile, both shelves of which are formed into one piece. Such products are used when making corners where you need to make a bend of 90 degrees.

To embody the final image of the interior, white or colored decorative details are used that fit the overall design of the room.

All parts are manufactured in accordance with the standards of Building Codes and Rules (SNiP).

How to install?

When all the finishing work is completed, you can start the process of mounting the plastic corners. It starts with a selection of glue. There are special adhesives on sale that are used to work with PVC parts. The most suitable option is a composition called “liquid nails”. You will also need a clerical knife with replaceable blades, a hacksaw or scissors for cutting metal, a measuring tool, adhesive and masking tape.

Profile mounting is carried out in several stages.

Regardless of where you need to glue the decorating part (on a window, door or arched opening), you first need to take measurements and cut the finishing material correctly.

After that, you should prepare the surface where gluing will be done.

  • it is worth cutting off unnecessary elements that interfere with the fixing of the corner piece: pieces of old finishing material or polyurethane foam, protruding plaster and others;
  • degrease the surface well, otherwise the corner will not adhere well.

Then you need to apply the adhesive directly to the finishing material in a not very thick layer. Press the workpiece tightly, and remove excess glue. Fix the part additionally with paper tape. It needs to be glued in several places and left for a day. It can be removed after 24 hours.

A very convenient design option for a PVC product is a corner with adhesive tape on the inside. It is enough to remove the film from it, after which you can immediately glue it, pressing it along the entire length. It is very important to immediately put the profile correctly, because the second time it can no longer be used.

There are several options for joining inner corners:

  • the areas are superimposed on each other, while the gaps are covered with a hermetic agent or putty to match the material;
  • one of the strips is cut to the base, for example, if the top part is left with 20 mm allowances on each side, then the side strips are cut to the same level with it;
  • trim planks at an angle of 45 degrees.

Plastic corners for outdoor decoration

Outdoor finishing of plastic windows includes installation of drainage and processing of mounting gaps. The latter is done both to protect the foam and for aesthetic purposes. Clearance processing can be done in different ways:

  • plastering,
  • installation of plastic corners,
  • installation of external plastic (sometimes metal from polymer galvanized) slopes, identical to the internal.

The most common of these methods is the second. finishing with plastic corners. Corners are not only cheaper than slopes, but also easier to install. It is about them that will be discussed here.

The plastic corner on the window is not only a decorative element that covers the gap between the quarter and the window, but also protects the foam in the assembly seam from sunlight and, to a lesser extent, from precipitation. To close the foam, it is enough to use simple corners with a turn of 90 ° or 105 °, 2 mm thick and a shelf width of up to 50 mm.If you need to close a quarter completely, more expensive hollow corners are suitable, in which the width of a large shelf can be from 75 to 120 mm. The thickness of such corners is 8 mm.

It is better to install corners with a turn of 90 ° on the window so that only one shelf is visible. The second adjoins the surface of the window profile and enters the gap between the quarter and the frame.

In this case, the corner is simply glued to the window with Cosmofen glue, when the frame is already fixed in the opening, but the installation gap has not yet been foamed. After foaming the window, the glued corner is additionally fixed with foam.

If during installation, the seam is waterproofed using PSUL tape, then in order to be able to install the corner according to the indicated scheme, the PSUL must be glued not to the window frame, but to a quarter immediately before installing the window in the opening. After fixing the frame and expanding the PSUL to contact with the surface of the profile, you can start installing the angle: with one shelf it is pushed into the gap between the frame and the tape. For reliability, it is advisable to additionally grip the corner to the profile at several points with Cosmofen glue. Just do not need to apply it in advance, so as not to smear it on the frame while installing the corner into the gap. It is better to do this later, when the corner is already on the window, gently with the tip of a thin blade, applying small drops of glue into the gap between the corner and the window profile and pressing for a few seconds.

The corner with a turn of 105 °, in contrast to the previous one, is placed on the window with both shelves outward (see the figure below). It is fastened either with glue or with short self-tapping screws 3.5x11mm with a “bug” type drill. Why with a drill? The fact is that a self-tapping screw without a drill, when screwed into plastic, squeezes out the chips that accumulate in the form of a tubercle between the corner and the profile, which is why the corner in this place does not fit tightly to the frame. Self-tapping screws with a drill-shaped tip are devoid of this disadvantage. The protruding heads of the self-tapping screws can be painted over with a white automotive corrector.

The only inconvenience when using such a corner can be created by its visible second shelf, with which it is attached to the window: if the window frame goes deep beyond a quarter (half the profile width or more), this shelf can interfere with the installation of a mosquito net. But the indisputable advantage of the 105th corner is its large reversal, thanks to which it fits exactly to the quarter.

An alternative option for a simple and inexpensive outdoor decoration of a plastic window is to use the Click System. developed by the company “Revik” (Novosibirsk). “Click System” is a window trim with lockable corner corners, without self-tapping screws. This system combines the advantages of the two finishes described above:

  • after installing the corner, only one of its shelf remains visible from the outside;
  • the corner fits snugly to the quarter, since its front shelf is located at the same angle to the window as in the 105th.

The principle of the “Click System” can be easily understood from the following figure:

In fact, only two components are used here: a clip and a corner.

There are three corner options: with a shelf length of 50 cm, 90 cm and 120 cm. for different widths of the outer slope.

The clips are cut into 3-5 cm before installation (this is a PVC profile supplied with 2-meter whips). Clips are available in two types:

  • for window systems Veka,
  • for window systems KBE, Rehau, Gealan and many others.

The frame is “clipped” with clips before installation with a step of 15-20 cm. The corner is inserted into the clips after the window is installed. The result looks something like this:

Detailed instructions for the installation of the “Click System” can be downloaded from the website of the company “Revik” or here.

There are thin 2 mm corners and a large size: 100x20x2mm (105 °).

How to attach plastic corners?

First, we note that before directly installing the plastic corners on the windows, it is necessary to paste over the braid with wallpaper, paint, etc. That is, you can start fixing them only after finishing all the finishing work.

To mount the plastic corner, you will need the following tools:

  • assembly glue (liquid nails)
  • masking tape (tape), and in a room with high humidity. silicone sealant
  • scissors for metal, or a hacksaw
  • pencil
  • directly PVC corners

Window decoration with plastic corners consists of several stages. Let’s consider each of them:

Surface preparation for gluing PVC corner

Remove all protruding parts: curtain nails, wallpaper, even any bulges on the wall. To do this, knock off some of the plaster.

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We cut off the wallpaper near the slope. to make it easier to tear them off if you plan a repair

Remove the wallpaper from the corner of the wall. Otherwise, you will not glue the plastic corner on the wall, but on the wallpaper, which is wrong.

Cut the wallpaper to such a width that there is no gap between it and the plastic corner.

Degrease with a mild solvent, or so-called. white spirit that part of the window slope on which the plastic corner will be attached.

In order for the windows to serve for a long time, they need to be looked after. You can find the rules for the care of the profile, glass and fittings at the link: https://oknanagoda.com/okna/otveti/ukhod-za-plastikovymi-oknami.html

Installation of a plastic corner on the slope of a plastic window

  • How to attach plastic corners?
  • Surface preparation for gluing PVC corner
  • Preparing a plastic corner
  • Installation of plastic corners on slopes

Today, a plastic corner is the most popular decorative element for finishing PVC windows.

How to properly install plastic corners with your own hands? And what are the nuances when installing plastic corners?

Preparing a plastic corner

Attach the plastic corner to the wall and mark it with a pencil (on top and between the side slopes).

The first nuance: the side corners are measured after gluing the top one. And the lower one. after installing the side ones. So it is less likely that there will be gaps between their edges.

Sometimes the outer sides of the corners are cut off after installation.

Carefully make cuts along the resulting marks using metal scissors. Trim the inner sides of the corners at a 90 degree angle. And the outer ones are 45 degrees.

The second nuance: if you have any surplus left on the plastic corner, then cut them off with a hacksaw.

The third nuance: the corners should be strictly straight, and the width of both their sides should be the same.

Installation of plastic corners on slopes

After installation, the corners are fixed with tape for a day

Apply a thin dotted layer of glue to the inside of the plastic corner, closer to the center. The adhesive is applied at intervals of approximately 10 to 15 mm.

Press the corner to the surface along its entire length.

Fix the plastic corner for a day in two or three places with masking tape / tape.

When the glue is dry, carefully remove the masking tape.

So, observing all the subtleties when installing plastic corners on windows, you can correctly attach PVC corners with your own hands without any effort.

Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes begins using this technology with the preparation of a window opening. We cut off the foam exactly, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, walk along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Preparation of a window opening

A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go over the frame. One side of the bar must be earned with a plane, making a tilt. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the angle of installation of the slope. You can saw it off, but it is even more difficult to make it, unless there is a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We make a slope on one of the edges of the bar

We fasten the processed block to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try with self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in the concrete.

We fix the starting profile

When choosing a starting profile, take a dense one. It is more expensive, but you dearly only three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, soft. bends and the look is ugly. Another point. when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.

Installed start profile

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of seam slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap (ceiling) ones, then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

Insert the plastic panel into the profile

The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. Having removed, we cut off along the marked mowing line.

Cut to size

We install the panel again, move it a little from the wall and fill it with polyurethane foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To do this, we start from the far lower corner. we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. Until we got to the top, the foam expanded a little at the bottom. We draw the fishing line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required. after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner and thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel as it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part is also installed and then the upper one. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to perfect (or almost) coincidence with sandpaper.

Installed plastic window slopes

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued to liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue on both shelves of the corner, press, passing with your hand along, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

Installed corners along the perimeter of the slope

In a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

It looks like a window with installed plastic slopes

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Do not use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for a white acrylic sealant and mask with it.

Plastic window slopes: self-installation. 2 ways

After installing plastic windows, the window opening looks far from the best: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster, the wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closed in various ways, the most practical, quick and inexpensive of which is plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which there is expanded polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given with step by step instructions and photos. Decide how to fix the slopes on plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the wall of the opening is too small. In this case, installation with a starter profile (see below) is either very difficult or. usually from the hinge side. is not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The device of the slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It can be cut easily, just do not overdo it, cut it flush, and do not cut it. the foam holds and insulates the frame. Chunks of plaster that get in the way and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them. less foam will creep.

Then we nail along the perimeter of the window (we put it on dowels, if the wall is concrete) a thin strip. 1040 mm. with the wide side to the slope.

Nailed along the perimeter of the rail

Usually it is not leveled, nailed as it is, but if you want, you can set it straight, placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.

Plastic sandwich panel groove

Next, cut the foam around the perimeter of the frame so that the sandwich panel fits there. It should go in about 1 cm.We cut off the foam carefully so that there are no residues on the frame, but also without damaging the plastic.

Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had an old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending over excess. Cut off bent fishing lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. Cut out with a small margin. it is easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw with a cloth for metal, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. We level so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost flat, where necessary, we work part-time with a file.

Inserted upper part of the plastic slope

Having removed the approximated and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. It will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.

We put it back in place, take a cylinder with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “pips”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour much: swollen, it can twist the plastic.

We fill in something like this

There are several points about working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and / and primed with something to improve adhesion. The second caveat: moisture is needed for normal foam polymerization. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall. it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is preliminarily treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we raise the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one is held against the window frame.

Fixed top plastic panel on the window slope

Using the same technology. we cut out the paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic. cut out the plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge even easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, with a file or a sharpening bar (half a circle, as in the photo).

Processing the edge of a plastic panel

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We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, set in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the plaster of the wall. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for the studs. We put the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from the bottom up. Too much foam and this is not good, as plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which starts under the frame, before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installing). After filling, press, level, fix with carnations in the bar.

The upper and lower joints are fixed with masking tape until the foam polymerization.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard they try to fit exactly the plastic, the gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes of the type of polyurethane foam, put in the same assembly gun.

How to Tile Around Windows by Yourself

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub, level, remove excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wipe gently. clean. As long as the acrylic is not frozen, it cleans well. Then. with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing the cracks from above. immediately. the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to cover up the joints with the windowsill.

After drying. 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be pulled into the seam. this is if the gaps are large. Pass all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be smoothed with fine grain sandpaper by folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is wet, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.

Installed plastic slopes

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be putty, leveling with the surface of the walls. You can then remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

Window with plastic slopes (sandwich panels)

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of expanded polypropylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are easily squeezed through, besides, if the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. There is no such thing in sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And the effort to push through requires a lot, and there are no jumpers even to the lumen.

An option for installing slopes with a starting profile bolted to the window frame, see this video.

Video option for installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here, pay attention to the finish of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.

How to attach corners to the ceiling

This will require additional preparation and tools. a sponge and soapy water, with which glue residues are removed. In addition to leveling the surface, it must be primed. Next, you should measure the dimensions and cut the required blanks. The beginning of gluing is done from any corner of the room. For this, it is better to use liquid nails. Apply the adhesive to the corner and press firmly against the wall and ceiling. Put putty at the joint, and then rub with sandpaper.

Varieties of plastic corners

Before you glue the plastic corner, you need to understand its types in order to choose the right option correctly. A wide range of colors is provided for the product, including monochromatic versions, as well as wood, marble, metals and other natural materials.

They come in various shapes and sizes. The most popular two options. in the shape of the letter L with the same or asymmetrical width of the shelves (from 10 to 50 mm in width, from 2 m in length), and curved, which are used for similar openings (arches, etc.), why they are called arched corners. They are produced in two versions. for 90 ° and 105 ° angles. Standard length. 3 m.

They are also made in a T-shape, which hides the joints between the slope and the wall cladding. The most rare in use option due to the increased cost is removable. Such a corner is made with a latch, which allows repair work without removing the profile. It easily folds back, and at the end of the process it falls into place.

The corners are also classified according to the type of finish. external and internal. The latter are made with a double-sided color.

Important! The wider the sides of the finishing material, the greater the load it can withstand, which is especially important on curved openings.

How to glue a plastic corner on the door and window slope

Before placing the corners on the slopes of windows or doors, you need to check the quality of the surface finish. This is done using a level, plank, or rigid ruler. If the surface of the slope is strongly curved, and this cannot be fixed, then it is better to install flexible plastic corners here.

Slopes are of three types:

  • plasterboard;
  • pasted over with wallpaper;
  • painted after plastering.

Regardless of the choice, the installation technology is the same in each case. Only the choice of adhesive is important so that it fits both the plastic and the finishing surface.

  • Measure the height to make the blanks. Leave a margin at the top. The cuts are made with metal scissors. You will get an angle of 90 ° from the inside, and 45 ° from the outside.
  • Put the part on the glue and wait for the setting.
  • Now measure the width, and cut to the required size with a margin to make the pairing with the side planks.
  • The face piece is cut at an angle of 45 ° at both ends.
  • Try on the corner to the side slopes to make marks in place with a cutting knife.
  • Take a ruler, attach it to the glued part and cut off the excess.
  • Now apply glue to the top bar and attach it to the corner. Secure all elements with tape for a day.

If the slopes are finished with wallpaper with a volumetric relief, then strips must first be cut out on them for plastic corners. Be careful that no drops remain on their surface after glue or liquid nails.

Material characteristics

Buyers choose plastic corners for slopes for the following positive qualities:

  • ease of use. during installation and cutting of the desired size and shape, which is done with scissors or a knife, and the burrs and ends are sanded with appropriate paper;
  • smooth out irregularities, forming an angle of 90 ° at the finishing points;
  • strength. protect corners from damage, while remaining unharmed;
  • resistance to moisture, ultraviolet light, temperature changes;
  • light in weight, which is also important for ease of installation;
  • long service life. 20-25 years, during which they do not lose their qualities, including color;
  • affordable cost;
  • do not require staining;
  • unpretentious care, in which they are easily washed with home remedies.

It is worth mentioning the shortcomings of the material:

  • melts in case of fire, emitting harmful substances;
  • after the expiration of the period it fades;
  • contact with sharp objects leaves unsightly scratches.

Preparatory work

Before you start decorating the walls with plastic corners, you should clean the work surface from dirt, dust and other construction debris. For glue application, purchase a glue gun, and for installation. additionally the following tools:

  • scissors or a hacksaw for metal;
  • square (preferably metal);
  • stationery knife;
  • roulette;
  • masking tape.

You may also need a miter box, with which workpieces are made with an angle of 45 °. But if the tool is missing, you can cope without it, using certain skills and our recommendations.

Degrease the attachment point of the corner and the part itself with a weak solvent or white spirit. The workpiece must be clean. Eliminate moisture ingress.

Installation options for corners on walls

Before gluing the corners, decide on the installation method. There are two of them.

This option is suitable for wallpaper with shallow relief, but be careful when finishing the slopes on deep embossing, as due to the loose fit of the corners, gaps may form in which dust collects.

  • Cutting a strip on the wallpaper to apply the glue directly to the wall. To do this, follow this action plan:
  • attach a corner to the installation site, align and press it against the wall surface;
  • use a sharp knife to cut the wallpaper from both sides of the cover;
  • apply glue to the plastic corner and install in the intended place;
  • secure the corners with tape designed for setting the adhesive;
  • after 24 hours you can remove the tape.

If you are not sure of the accuracy of cutting out the blanks, you can first try on the part to the finishing place, and mark the place of the cut with a pencil.

How to glue a plastic corner to the wall and to the PVC window slope: technological features of the process

After any repair, for example, pasting wallpaper, installing doors or windows, finishing work remains, including attaching corners to slopes. They will protect walls and other surfaces from mechanical damage that occurs from careless touch, for example, when moving furniture, and will give the interior an aesthetic look. They are used to hide corner joints, which is especially important when using different materials. Most often, rigid PVC is chosen for finishing, which is made by the method of “hot” bending of the sheet. You need to know how and how to glue such corners on the slopes so that the product will last as long as possible.

Types of adhesives

Before gluing the plastic corner, choose the right product for the procedure. Today, the choice is made up of four positions, with the characteristics of which you should familiarize yourself before work. how to apply, how long it takes, is it suitable for the material, etc.

They are distinguished by good durability. This adhesive spreads easily over the surface of the plastic corner. It is applied in dots or in a zigzag pattern. Liquid nails are able to connect glued products for more than 20 years without losing their properties. The strength of the adhesion after complete solidification is 40 kg / m 2. It has anti-corrosion properties, does not damage or contaminate the plastic. When buying, give preference to a colorless composition, especially if you have to work with light surfaces.

It is used to connect corners with wallpaper, as well as tiled and ceramic walls, if acrylic is present in the composition. Differs in the absence of toxic chemicals and high adhesive performance.

  • Polyurethane adhesive. Strong, flexible and non-staining. Quickly hardens.
  • Liquid plastic. Suitable for working only on plastic surfaces (for example, window slopes). Fast-acting, has high strength and reliability.

You need to apply glue from the inside of the part, closer to the middle. The intervals between dotted drops are 1-1.5 cm.

There are also self-adhesive corners that are glued immediately after measuring and creating the required size and shape. To do this, remove the protective tape and press the product against the protruding corner.