How to cut a ceiling plinth at 45 degrees
Measurements needed to trim the ceiling skirting should be made in a special way To determine and mark the inside corner, the length should be measured from the corner itself. To mark the outer corner, be sure to take into account that deep into the room the baseboard will protrude a distance that equals its width.
It is not desirable to fix the skirting boards before their exact position is tried on and the mating skirting is cut. Only when both skirting boards are perfectly aligned in a corner can they be assembled and fastened. If the work is done with polyurethane or wooden baseboards, defects and errors can be corrected with a file or file. To fit the foam plastic product, you need to arm yourself with a sharp knife.
If even a small gap remains after finishing the skirting boards, do not rush to upset. it is not difficult to patch it with an ordinary putty.
It is not that difficult to cut a ceiling moulding accurately and neatly. But in order to acquire at least a small skill, first try to practice on small workpieces.
A ceiling plinth is an original decorative element, it decorates the room and adds elegance to it. Hides all the errors in the corners of the ceiling connection to the walls, and hides such a nuisance as cracks in the corners.
Cutting off the corner of a ceiling moulding with a joiner
The main tool for cutting ceiling cornices at an angle is a plane. Its design is simple, it is a kind of tray of wood, metal or plastic with special grooves that guide the blade of the hacksaw at a certain angle.
With a standard tool, you can cut the product at angles of 45, 60, 90 degrees When cutting ceiling ties, you mainly use the trimming of 45 and 90 degrees
We start with the inner corners. To understand how to cut the right corner of the ceiling plinth, to begin with, put it to the inner corner of the room and visually determine the line to trim the cut
Note that the bottom, the edge that is attached to the wall, always stays longer
Then we put the ledge in our carpentry device so that the edge that will be attached to the ceiling, was at the bottom. We expose its end at the necessary angle, in this case 45°, fix it, and with smooth movements we cut off the unwanted part.
This is how we get the right cut of the ceiling cornice for the inside corner.
To cut the outer, you should perform the same actions, only the direction of the cut will be different. When cutting should be considered that, unlike the inner, in the outer corner of the longest should remain the edge that is glued to the ceiling. Thus, for the right side, the mode from right to left, and for the left side. from left to right.
How to make a correct cut without a jointer
So, we figured out how to cut the corner on the ceiling plinth using a wire cutter. But what to do if you can not find such a tool at hand, and to buy it in order to glue a baguette in one room is not desirable? There is a way out.
Let’s consider how to cut the corner of the plinth without using a guide tool.
To do this, we attach the ceiling bar in the corner and draw a pencil on the ceiling on the line of the bar mark. Do it from both sides, left and right. As a result, we will have two lines intersecting on the ceiling.
We transfer the point of intersection on the fillets. After that we put them on a flat surface, as well as in a chair, and cut off the unnecessary part. When cutting the fillet, consider the rules that are used when cutting ceiling dumbbells in the joinery fixture.
In the same way you can cut the outer one. Only you have to draw lines on the wall. Here we have figured out how to cut the corner on the baseboard without using a jigsaw.
How to join in the corners
If the installation of the first corner is passed, you can consider that you have almost learned how to do. “Almost” because you still need to learn how to join the corners and trim the strips to length. When some part is glued already and there is a small distance to the corner, how not to make a mistake with the length? The answer is simple: leave a margin.
At the beginning you can cut a piece longer by 10-15 cm: you will be able to redo it a few times, if something does not work at once. Then do the angle as described above, trying on the dry, all adjusted, so that the result pleased you. Only after that you can put the already cut slat in the corner and mark the place to which it can be shortened. It is necessary to trim exactly under 90°. You don’t have to use a jointer. Just try to put the knife (hacksaw) perpendicular to the surface.
Why do I need a fillet?
Tiles with a 45 degree edge are often used for the purpose of decorating a neat exterior corner, if it is straight. You can also do everything with the usual edges, but then you get an overlap on one side, and the seam is offset from the fold line. The disadvantage of a simple solution is also that the end of the facing often differs in color from the front surface. To form a gap between tiles equal to the total on the walls and not to spend money on decorative overlays, it is rational to make a notch.
However, to choose for tiling a tile with a notch at 45 degrees, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the disadvantages of such a solution. If the base will be prepared with deviations from the right angle and a straight line, it will not allow you to make a quality finish. Either the joint will be too narrow/wide, or the inner part of the end will contact/severely diverge. The layer of grout must be maintained within the allowable limits, fill the joint with at least the entire thickness of the tile.
If the inner edges of the edging contact, the material will fracture due to the thermal expansion of the mechanical loading material. And in areas of high foot traffic, the glazed or unglazed edges will quickly become aesthetically unusable. And behind them, the grout will begin to chip away, allowing vapor and water to penetrate under the cladding.
Methods of shaping the edge
There are several tools and techniques for how to grout a tile at 45 degrees. The most effective is an electric tile cutter. Especially if there is a provision for correcting the position of the support pad and disc relative to the angle between them. On such installations the probability of chipping on the edge is minimal, the accuracy of turning is good. Cutting workpieces is more often done by the “wet” method, so little dust and debris comes out. There is only one tangible disadvantage. it is impossible to form a uniform cut on a curved edge.
The working process includes several consecutive steps:
- paint tape marks the fishing line for the trimmer of the cut (pencil or other drawing indicator will be washed away with water);
- a clear line is applied over the paper tape to trim the cut;
- while cutting, the tile is pressed tightly to the support platform and moves smoothly towards the disc without pressure on the disc to avoid chipping;
- corrects the position of the platform or the cutting disc of the tile cutter at 45 degrees to form an edge at the desired angle;
- the excess part of the end without affecting the front edge by 0.5-1 mm is cut off.
accessible to home craftsmen for trimming tiles under 45 degrees is an angle grinder. With the help of an angle grinder is often performed cutting construction materials in a straight line. The tool can also be used for angular filing. The work is noisy, dusty, visibility is not very good and there is enough trash, but the result is quite realistic.
- cutting off the excess, if any (the working mode should be set to 1000-2000 revolutions per minute);
- Edge sharpening, angle correction, smoothing the damage on the face of the cutting line.
Less often the task is solved using a handheld tile cutter. Under 45 degrees, the edge can be formed using a sharpening stone or electric analog, a file or a grinder. The main thing is that the cladding material is amenable to processing with the chosen tool. Finishing sanding is sometimes made by masters with an ordinary sandpaper. Especially with low-priced tile this approach works well.
There are tilers, who cope with the task of forming a cut under 45 degrees with a glass cutter and angle grinder. Here first we make the line with the cutter on the front side in one pass with equal pressure. Then an indentation is made with a disc from the underside observing 45 degrees from the working side in the form of a corner with the line of “bending” over the line from the glass cutter. After that the workpiece will not be difficult to break in the area of the smallest thickness. Finally, the edge is ground with a fine abrasive.
Choice of accessories for circular tools
To work with porcelain tile, tile and stone on the trading floors cutting circles in a wide range. For tile trimming it is better to choose diamond discs. If water will be used in the cutting process, then any options can be considered. According to the “dry” method the samples with different cuts are better suited. Air flows through them, reducing the likelihood of the tool overheating quickly.
Grinding can also be carried out not with hand tools, but with the help of an angle grinder or the same electric tile cutter. But it is better to choose the first option. There are special adapters for the angle grinder, which are screwed onto the threaded pin of the mechanism. On the other side is a velcro pad. An emery wheel or ceramic stone grinder is glued on it. Only it is necessary that the angle grinder has a speed regulator. Here the work should be done at low speed.
In this video, the tiler shares his experience of filing tiles under 45 degrees using “turtle” sanding nozzles
How to trim a mosaic
Work with a large tile during the filing of the edge at 45 degrees is simplified by the possibility of well fix the workpiece by hand or special devices. In the case of a mosaic there is no such a possibility, but for the accurate facing of the right angle trimming ends is also relevant.
Specialists use an electric tile cutter to work with the edges of small tiles. Blanks are placed on the platform facedown to minimize the appearance of chips. The main thing is to be careful to avoid injury.
Cutting corners using the drawing on the table
But how to file the ceiling plinth if you do not have in the arsenal of a jigsaw? We can do it in a different way. For this we need a drawing on the table, which will simulate a stencil with the corners.
First, two lines are drawn on the surface in parallel, the distance between them is equal to the inside of the gutter, namely 8.5 cm. Now with the help of these lines we make a square, in which two diagonals are drawn. So we have got the 45-degree guiding angles.
Cutting the inside corner of the left-hand baseboard
The subsequent operations are no different from how we did the inside corner with the jigsaw. Only in this case we press the skirting not to the edge (which simply does not exist), and to the drawn line. In order to make it easier for you to align the skirting by the level, put a box to the line. In this way you will get a surface on which you can base the skirting board. Do not forget that the skirting must not lie directly on the trimmer’s fishing line. This is why the box is used.
When cutting the bottom of the skirting board will be directed away from you. For an external corner the top corner of a profile will be projecting, and for an internal corner. the bottom corner.
The template is 45 degrees. The angle pattern is 45 degrees
Often the home handyman needs to make an urgent measurement or marking at a certain angle, and there is no square or protractor at hand. In this case he will be rescued by some simple rules.
If you need to urgently build a right angle, and you do not have a square, you can use any printout. The angle of the paper sheet is a very precise right angle ( 90 deg.). Cutting (punching) machines in printing houses are set up very precisely. Otherwise the original roll of paper will begin to cut crookedly and askew. So you can be sure that this angle is exactly right.
And if you don’t even have a printout or need to plot an angle on the ground, such as when marking out a foundation or a sheet of plywood with uneven edges? In this case the rule of the golden (or Egyptian) triangle will help us.
A golden (or Egyptian, or Pythagorean) triangle is a triangle with sides that relate to each other as 5:4:3. According to the Pythagoras theorem, in a right triangle the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the cathetuses. Т.е. 5×5 = 4×4 3×3. 25=169 and it is undeniable.
Therefore, in order to construct a right angle, it is sufficient to draw a straight trimmer line of length 5 (10,15,20 and t.д. a multiple of 5 cm). And then, from the edges of this line, begin to measure from one side 4 (8,12,16, etc.e is a multiple of 4 cm), and 3 (6,9,12,15, etc.д. multiple of 3 cm) distances. You should get arcs with a radius of 4 and 3 cm. Where these arcs intersect each other will be a right angle (90 degrees).
Such angles are usually used when making rectangular frames. The material from which the frame (baguette) is made is sawn at an angle of 45 degrees and joined. If you do not have at hand a plane or protractor, you can get a template angle of 45 degrees as follows. It is necessary to take a sheet of writing paper or any printed matter and to bend it so that the line for a bending trimmer passed precisely through a corner, and edges of the bent sheet coincided. The resulting angle is 45 degrees.
House lamp made of wood with their own hands
An angle of 60 degrees is required to construct equilateral triangles. For example, you need to saw such triangles for decorative work or accurately set the power ledge. Angle of 30 degrees is rarely used in its pure form. However, with its help (and with the help of the angle of 90 degrees) the angle of 120 degrees is constructed. And this is the angle needed to build equilateral hexagons, a figure very popular with carpenters.
To build a very precise pattern of these angles at any time, you need to remember the constant (number) 173. They follow from the ratio of the sines and cosines of these angles.
Take a sheet of paper from any printed publication. Its angle is exactly 90 degrees. From the corner on one side measure 100 mm (10 cm).) and on the other side 173 mm (17.3 cm). Connect these points. So we obtained a template, which has one angle of 90 degrees, one of 30 degrees and one of 60 degrees. You can check with a protractor. all exactly!
Remember this number. 173, and you can always build angles of 30 and 60 degrees.
When you mark up the workpieces or drawings on the parts besides the corners themselves it is very important and their ratio. This is especially important when making rectangular details or e.g. when marking foundations, cutting large sheets of material. Incorrect construction or marking results in a great deal of unnecessary work or waste.
Unfortunately, even very precise marking tools. even professional ones. always have a certain margin of error.
Meanwhile, there is a very simple method of determining the rectangularity of a part or construction. In a rectangle the diagonals are absolutely equal! So, after the construction it is necessary to measure the lengths of the diagonals of the rectangle. If they are equal, all is well, it really is a rectangle. And if not. you have built a parallelogram or rhombus. In this case you should “play” a little with the adjacent sides to achieve the exact (for this case) equality of the diagonals of the marked rectangle.
Ending at 45 degrees. How to saw at a 45 degree angle
During home repairs, you may need to saw materials at a 45-degree angle. Usually it is done for connection of two details “in whiskers”, i.e. corner in 90 degrees (frames, plinths, door trims, etc.). To work you happy with the result, it is important to absolutely fit the adjacent parts of the blanks. It is extremely difficult to do without a special device, a chisel, especially for the novice craftsman.
Prepare an angled template that helps you easily make a precise cut of the wood workpiece at an angle of 45 degrees. This tool is an inverted U-shaped profile with slots on both sides for the hacksaw. Usually they are placed at 45, 60 and 90 degree angles. The more complex saws are additionally equipped with arbitrary fixed slots, or have a pivoting design. it allows you to set the saw in the optimal position.
Buy a prefabricated joinery tool in a hardware store with a wooden, metal or plastic tray. For the do-it-yourselfer, this is the right choice. If you want, you can make a simple jig with your own hands from three boards or plywood strips (thickness. approximately 1.5 to 2 cm).
Drill a few holes in the walls of the future jigsaw, apply glue to the ends and assemble the box (tray) of the jigsaw. Secure the angle piece with screws. The walls of the tool should lie strictly parallel one to the other; the bottom and each sidewall make clear perpendiculars.
Mark a 45 degree angle with a pencil, add additional groove lines if necessary. In order not to be mistaken in your calculations, use a protractor.
The most responsible thing. the cuts. It is advisable to do them with the same hacksaw you will later use to make cuts in the finished jigsaw. Start sawing without exerting too much pressure on the working tool, hold the blade. Saw one side first, then the opposite side.
Start processing the lumber. Fasten the jigsaw to the workbench or work table with a screw clamp (clamps to hold the parts in place) or screws. Then make the mark of the future sawing on the lath (board, baseboard) and put the workpiece in the box. Press it firmly against one of the side walls of the template, aligning the marks with the slot of the angle of 45 degrees.
Insert the hacksaw into the slots of the jigsaw and cut the wood. The work of the saw will be limited to a fixed kerf, and you will make a smooth and accurate cut.
When sawing the baseboards, make sure that the corners in the room are really straight. If the walls are very uneven, the angle of kerf on the workpieces should be corrected. Measure the joints of the interior walls with an angle meter and divide the result in half (baseboard joint “in the whisker”). To make an accurate cut, it is recommended to make grooves with a given angle in a homemade jigsaw. Another option is a store rotary tool, which allows you to change the angle from 0 to 180 degrees in increments of about 15 degrees.
Peculiarities of facing a corner
Start by laying the first tile with a 45 degree cut so that the outer part of the end piece protrudes slightly beyond the working base, and the inner did not reach the edge of the corner.
Then the second is glued. After that you can adjust the position of blanks relative to the joint. The main thing is that the mortar does not have time to set. Subsequent rows of mower should always be placed with an upright and level corner to avoid divergence in the future.
Briefly about the main thing
Sawing the edges on the tiles under 45 degrees is formed when the facing of structures with a right angle and an even line.
It is important when preparing the base to meet all geometric requirements: 90 degrees, vertical and horizontal (less often diagonal).
To make the front part of the tile less exposed to processing to avoid chips, on the ends of the trim is performed with an indentation from the outer surface of 0.5-1 mm.
The angle is formed with maximum quality on an electric tile cutter by means of a diamond disc and water.
A more accessible way to file the tile at 4 degrees. grinding the base with an angle grinder and a diamond disc and grinding nozzle.
Of hand tools for work can be useful file, tile cutter, glass cutter and abrasives.
The laying of tiles is carried out with strict observance of the thickness of the outer joint and its evenness, the level with reference to the rest of the facing trim.
Write in Комментарии и мнения владельцев, what do you think. what approach is more rational: reliable and simple with overlaying of straight ends or aesthetically attractive and more complicated with sawing the edges at an angle of 45 degrees?
The essentials in a nutshell
Edge sawing on tiles at 45 degrees is formed when the facing of structures with a right angle and an even line of expansion is performed.
It is important during the preparation of the substrate to comply with all geometric requirements: 90 degrees, vertical and horizontal (less often diagonal).
To the front part of the tile is less exposed to processing to avoid chips, on the ends trimming is performed with an indentation from the outer surface of 0.5-1 mm.
The corner is formed with maximum quality on an electric tile cutter by means of a diamond disc and water.
A more accessible way to cut the tile under 4 degrees. grinding the base with a diamond disc and grinding attachment.
Of hand tools for work can be useful file, tile cutter, glass cutter and abrasives.
Tile installation is carried out with strict adherence to the thickness of the outer joint and its flatness, the level with reference to the rest of the facing trim.
Write in Комментарии и мнения владельцев, what do you think. what approach is more rational: reliable and simple with overlapping of straight ends or aesthetically attractive and complicated with filing the edges at an angle of 45 degrees?
Ceiling plinth. fillet
To do it correctly, it is important to strictly follow the existing recommendations and rules of finishing works. And then you will be pleased with the result.
There are no difficulties in fixing files (this is the name of the element): practically all product varieties are fixed with reliable glue.
In order to hang a ceiling plinth, even inexperienced repairmen have no difficulty. They are concerned about something else entirely: how to properly trim a ceiling plinth? Virtually every room, no matter how intricately shaped, is equipped with corners.
And here in these internal corners of the individual elements of the skirting board must be beautifully and evenly docked. And in rooms of especially complex configuration will have to fudge and over the outer corners. Let’s try to figure out how to be in each of these situations, and how to cut the right part with the available tools.
Baseboard materials and cutting methods
First of all, let’s try to determine what can be used to make a fillet, and what a particular material is better to cut.
On sale today you can find products made of foam (PVC), wood, polystyrene foam and polyurethane.
Perhaps some of the cheapest are skirting boards made of foam plastic, which is a fragile, soft and brittle material.
Even the fingers of the hands can leave dents on them, they are easy to form creases and defects. It is difficult to cut a nice and even corner of a PVC baseboard.
Inexperienced craftsmen can go to waste because of this large amount of purchased material. This polymer also has high electrostatic properties, which explains its ability to collect dust.
It is best to cut such a skirting board with a hacksaw or a sharp construction knife.
Products made of polystyrene foam are also inexpensive, although this material is a more durable analogue of traditional styrofoam.
It is also machined with a sharp tool.
Extruded polystyrene foam
Skirting boards made of extruded polystyrene foam are a bit more expensive, a bit denser and more difficult to cut. But they are much less likely to crumble and break.
That is why it is more convenient and easier to cut them. For this purpose, it is convenient to use a hacksaw or a sharp knife.
Polyurethane skirting boards for the ceiling are currently, perhaps, one of the most expensive.
But they are worth their price: they are moisture-resistant, rather strong and thick, and elastic enough.
Placed over the kitchen stove, the baseboard can be deformed and even crack a little.
They are perfectly cut with a special knife, without generating a crumb. But these products are very sensitive to temperature changes.
Wooden skirting boards for the ceiling. it is quite heavy and dense products, hard and durable.
They are well amenable to processing with a special fine-toothed hacksaw. You can also use a reliable metal blade. So how to trim a ceiling plinth correctly?
Prefabricated corners
Note that each master has the opportunity not to pore over the precise cutting and matching corners.
In a construction store you can buy a factory-made corner piece, in which you can easily insert the prepared edges of the skirting board.
It is enough to measure the necessary length of the blank, and cut it at right angles.
All defects and imperfections will be hidden by this special element. But it is not always possible to use such a convenient method, because the standard sizes of such factory corners can differ markedly from the size of the baseboard itself.
Such corners will stand out for their disproportionality, and it will not look very neat. But if the design of the room and the size of blanks allow you to use this method, then do not neglect it.
Trimming the trimmer
Trimming using a wire cutter
How to evenly cut the corner of the ceiling plinth with it?
The chisel is an uncomplicated tool used by carpenters. With it you can cut any workpiece at the desired angle.
It is usually a wooden, metal or plastic tray, which are made to cut at an angle of 45 ° and 90 ° special vertical slots.
There are complicated designs, which in addition to the named corners also have a hole to make 60-degree cuts.
For professional work is available as a special plane. Its swivel mechanism allows you to fix the cutting blade in relation to the workpiece at any given angle.
Inner corner
The prepared skirting board is put against the ceiling, the required length is put aside.
Then this very slat is inserted into the mortiser exactly as it will be positioned on the ceiling. It must be pressed against the far wall of the fixture. Hold the skirting board in this position with the left hand.
The blade of the hacksaw should be in such a position, so that its angle is 45 degrees, and the handle is maximally close to the hand. Trying to avoid exerting pressure on the saw, we carefully cut the workpiece.
Next, the skirting board must be cut off. It is also placed at the far side of the tool, held and pressed down, this time with the right hand.
Similar to the previous procedure the position of the hacksaw. its handle is brought closer to the hand at an angle of 45 degrees. The skirting board is cut.
Then the finished, already cut slats are joined together. the fitting accuracy is checked. It is believed that for better orientation, when making the inner corner, it is better to start cutting from the front of the product. Places of cuts usually need to be further adjusted file.
External corner
The correct way to keep the dimensions more accurate is to start with the inside corner first, and only then move on to the outside corner.
Otherwise, it may happen that the entire length of the strip is not enough.
The strip is attached to the ceiling, according to the size made marks. Holding the left hand, the ceiling plinth is pressed to the closest wall, the handle of the hacksaw is close to the hand. The workpiece is cut off.
The counter slat is pressed against the nearest wall, holding it in place with the right hand. The blade of the hacksaw should be at an angle of 45°, with the handle of the tool close to the hand of the craftsman. A piece of the workpiece is cut off, and the corner is accurately joined.
This processing of the edge of the parts with a mash is good if the angle between the walls is flat and straight (90 °).
If its performance leaves much to be desired, it is worth using another method.
Marking on the ceiling
The method with the markings on the ceiling allows you to cut a corner exactly and straight. It has one drawback. it is rather inconvenient to hold the baseboard plank in the balance during the procedure.
In all other respects you can use this method to mark the angle of the cut even more accurately than other methods.
When the plinth is applied to the intended place of installation, all size deviations and inaccuracies are noticeable and immediately taken into account.
Cutting a corner
First take a pair of blanks, then cut them at right angles. Perpendicular to the wall, against the end of the strip apply a strip. Outline on the ceiling line for a trimmer on the contour of the baseboard. We remove the first skirting board, then we enclose the counter skirting board by pressing its end against the wall. Exactly the same way we mark on the contour line for a trimmer.
The intersection point of the two separate lines is the mark at which the workpiece is cut. Each bar is placed against the surface again, and the point of the future cut is marked on both of them. From the found point to the other edge of the baseboard trimmer line. The skirting boards are cut according to the previously made marks, neatly joined, and placed in the place where they will be installed.
This method allows you to more accurately process inside corners.
Recommendations for tile trimming at an angle with the machine
Professional tile cutters operate in the wet cut and filing modes, if there is no such an option, the work is done in the mask. The scheme of action in general does not change:
- The necessary width of cut is marked with a pencil (all products to be sawn at the same distance).
- The tile is placed on the platform of the machine, pressed down and slowly moved to the disk for sawing.
- Sawing off the surplus material to the marked edge. using smooth movements, if necessary. in several steps, removing thin layers of ceramic.
- The cut edge of the tile is scraped with sandpaper. If there is no sanding option on the machine and large volumes, this step is worth doing with belt sanders.
If it is necessary to cut tiles and trim them, the algorithm becomes a little more complicated. In such cases, the machine is first set in straight cutting mode and only then in trimming mode. In order to maintain the integrity of tiles, the cutting trimmer line is pre-glued with masking tape that is removed just before trimming.
Mistakes at work
In addition to cutting errors, it is worth remembering about the rules of laying such products. Tiles cut at an angle are joined with a small (1-1,5 mm) gap and must be grouted with color-matched mixtures. Verification and adjustment of the level is performed on each row, after laying products on both sides of the facing corner. The verticality of walls and structures is checked in advance, the installation of undercut tiles on uneven surfaces makes no sense.
Work on the preparation and laying of tiles requires professional knowledge and solid skills, and mistakes in their production can lead to fatal consequences and large financial losses. The above recommendations for tile filing at 45 degrees show clearly that it will be easier and better to turn to a trusted craftsman to produce these works than to do it yourself with the risk of irrevocable financial losses in case of failure to comply with the technology of the work performed.