How to cut tires with your own hands

We make low pressure tires with our own hands

We’ve all seen huge cars on big wheels on TV or in real life. These “iron monsters” inspire fear and horror in only one sight. They express their greatness not by the impressive size of their bodies, but by the size of their wheels. However, such “shoes” for a vehicle are not chosen for the purpose of intimidating someone, but in order to increase the vehicle’s cross-country ability. As a rule, the owner of such a vehicle pursues one goal – to make a real conqueror of the peaks out of his “iron horse”.

tires, hands

These large wheels are called low pressure tires. They are popular and in demand among hunters, fishermen, extreme lovers and participants in various competitions. But in ordinary life, huge wheels can come in handy, because in the vastness of our country there are places where roads have never been and it is not a fact that they will ever appear. If you live in such an area, then with low pressure tires you will not be afraid of any obstacles in your path..

  • Stages of making homemade low pressure tires
  • The first stage of manufacturing
  • Second stage of manufacturing
  • Final stage

Second stage of manufacturing

It is necessary to approach the manufacture of low-pressure tires with your own hands fully armed, both theoretically and practically. When starting the second stage – cutting the contour, it is best to start by cutting the lateral part, where from the depth of the first layer of cord threads it is necessary to pull out the metal fibers by cutting the wires with wire cutters. Make a diagram and make cuts along it. Then follows:

  • Make a wide cut through the sidewall;
  • Notch the tire surface with an auxiliary tool;
  • Open part of the cut off tire;
  • Use a winch to completely separate a part of the rubber;
  • Sand the surface with sandpaper, if necessary, straighten it with a hammer.

After these steps, the camera can be considered ready. Completing the second stage of making a low-pressure tire with your own hands, you need to make sure that the wheel base is not damaged, otherwise you will have to do the same steps, but with a different copy.

The first stage of manufacturing

The first step is to thoroughly wash the surface of the craft from layers of dirt and dust. Next, you should start eliminating all that is superfluous. A self-made low-pressure tire is unusually light, the pressure inside it varies from 2 to 4.25 kg / cm2. Low pressure makes the car less gravitational to the ground.

The vehicle on low pressure tires seems to “float”. Therefore, it is important to free the tire from excess rubber from the tread and sides. Remove cores inside. It is best to stock up on tires, take one for experimenting: pulling the cords, cutting off the rubber according to the scheme. It is necessary to cut at a depth in places where the boundaries of the strongest layers pass.

Stages of making homemade low pressure tires

Surely you thought that such wheels are very expensive. This is true, because “giants” are four times more expensive than ordinary wheels. But you can make homemade low pressure tires. And this trend is gaining momentum. And so how to make low pressure tires yourself?

It is necessary to understand the very structure of a conventional bus. It is best to find a tire from a GAZ-66 or from a ZIL-131; for the first manufacturing experience, an aircraft tire with great strength is suitable. The design of the tire resembles a “cake” consisting of different layers: metallized base, fabric and rubber covers.

Final stage

As a rule, an already assembled structure is used as a base, which must be cut lengthwise and insert metal sheets-inserts. Alternatively, weld on a number of studs and rods using welding.

The installation of the wheel must be started from one side of the disc, gradually moving to the other base. When the wheel has taken on a complete look, it should be pumped up..

In order to make a “giant” wheel, you need to make a minimum of effort and financial costs. If you decide to conquer off-road with the help of such wheels on your car, you should remember a few rules. Avoid driving on smooth and hard roads. Low pressure tires quickly lose their original condition, especially on the sides. Therefore, after a while, there may be a risk of drifts..

Tire track options

For the construction of paths in the country, you can use both tires with discs and without them (in the form of cut strips or tiles). In the first case, laying is carried out flat or with an edge. If the terrain is uneven, then the whole tires will make a comfortable staircase. Moreover, its shape can be any.

In order to make smooth flooring for movement, rubber is taken from tires with uniform wear. It is recommended to take wheels from trucks, as they are larger and the tracks will come out wider.

Curbs are also built from the side of the tires..

Erection of curbs

The installation of the track is completed by the construction of a rubber curb from the tires. This is done not only for the sake of decoration, but also to firmly fix the flooring..

You can decorate the edges of the garden path in different ways:

  • dig in the tires entirely in an upright position;
  • cut the rubber bands and fasten them with nails, bolts or metal staples;
  • cut the tire in half and dig the resulting arcs in the ground.

For decorating the edges of the track, it is better to take truck tires

It is recommended to use imported tires as they have softer rubber and are easily cut with a knife. And in order to make a cross-section, you need a more serious tool – metal scissors or a jigsaw.

As a decoration for the edge of the path, you can use the blocks remaining after paving. They will simultaneously serve as a support.

Preparatory activities

Before you start laying out the trails, you should plan the work front. It is better to sketch on paper a diagram with all the elements that complement the track:

  • borders;
  • gutters;
  • drainage systems;
  • lanterns.

Be sure to measure the tires in order to navigate the required amount. And this will depend on the length of the path, its shape and route..


It is necessary to cut strips from tires in accordance with the required dimensions. They do it as follows:

  • First, markings are applied to the tire with a marker, along which they will cut.
  • With the help of a jigsaw or a well-sharpened knife, they start cutting the rubber – they separate the part with the protector (the one that came into contact with the road when the car was moving) from the side and rim. To facilitate the process, the knife is periodically moistened in a solution of laundry soap or greased with grease. A wedge is installed behind the knife blade (adjustable wrench, wooden block, pry bar).

Tape is cut from the tire

The rubber sheet is nailed to planks or bars

Depending on the width of the trail, you may need 2-4 canvases. Nailed tapes to wooden planks, leaving gaps of 1.5-2 cm and laid on the ground.

Grass will grow into the cracks left over time and will keep the flooring from shifting.

It is preliminarily recommended to make a base of gravel, which will serve as drainage. So that the path does not rise, the path for laying it is slightly deepened. This option is suitable for decorating aisles between beds or plantings..

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Preparation of the necessary materials and tools

For work, a tool is prepared in advance:

  • sharp knife or jigsaw;
  • shovel;
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • roulette;
  • pencil or marker;
  • ax;
  • nails (from 7 cm long);
  • wooden pegs.

Only old tires are needed from the material.

Prepare the tire in advance

Choosing tires for garden paths

For the construction of paths for movement in the garden, any tires are suitable. If you want to make the tracks wider, it is better to choose tires from trucks. If you plan to install whole tires, then they are selected of the same size. For tape-type trails, you can take different-sized material, you still have to cut it.

Tires of the same size should be used for the track.

It is preferable to stay on “winter tires”, since it is designed for low temperatures. These tracks will last longer.

The choice of design for the intended purpose

Homemade clamps in their functionality are no different from those made in production. They can be used for gluing boards, assembling furniture, gluing panels. Various tools are used for carpentry, including clamping, F-shaped, table clamps. Depending on the purpose, it is worth choosing the right unit, taking into account its design features. For example, for frames and for an echo sounder, furniture and eccentric clamps will differ from each other. Each of them is designed to perform a corresponding task and is not a universal tool.

If you plan to fix large workpieces, then a pipe structure will be the best option. Its advantage is that the length can be easily changed. However, such a unit has a complex operating mechanism. In carpentry, the angular version of the tool is often used. With its help, it is easy to bring together wooden blocks at right angles. Sometimes these clamps are used for laminate flooring. Also joiners use tape tools..

In their appearance, the spring units resemble a hitch. With this type of clamping clamp, the force is generated by the installed spring. It is very easy to work with such a tool without using the other hand. The unit is used in the case when a large compression is not required, and on the contrary, this condition must be met, otherwise the workpiece may suffer, since it was made of a brittle material. There are clamps with a clip and an automatic type. It is difficult to make one yourself, but it is possible if you have the skills to work with electronics. This type is referred to as quick-clamping structures. The principle of operation of the unit is simple and straightforward.

Cutting Tires In Two

It is very important for the guide bar with what force the compression is produced. Poorly made and inexpensive instruments have poor fixation. End models have found their application in the furniture industry. There they are used when working with overlays on tabletops. There is another budget option for the clamp – G-shaped. To work with such a unit, it will first need to be fixed on a tabletop or any other plane. The clamp will become an indispensable assistant when working on gluing, grinding or sharpening workpieces.

Its advantage lies in the great possibilities for adjusting the guide. You can change the width, therefore the workpieces can be of different thicknesses.

From the brake pads

Brake pads are also used to manually assemble the clamp. First, they need to be connected so that from the side the structure resembles a sickle or a young month. You will need to have on hand a welding machine with which two elements are welded together. Only an angle grinder can clean the seams. For this, a petal circle is installed on it. Additionally, two nuts of the M12 type and a hairpin, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm, and the length according to the drawing, should be at hand. The nuts are screwed onto the stud and welded from the edges..

The nut with a press washer is fixed and reamed, increasing the diameter to the required one. An m6 screw is inserted into the hole, a simple washer is installed on top. Everything is scalded together. At the next stage, a hole is made from one end of the stud, then a thread is cut. It should fit under the M6. A small section of the stud will need to be cut off with an angle grinder, then a nut should be welded to it. When all the elements are ready, you can start assembling.

From the jack

It so happens that the old jack has ceased to be useful, but it is a pity to throw it out. You can make a good tool out of it. The result is a reliable unit that will last for a very long time. The grip width of such a tool will be about 15.5 cm, so it can be used when working with a large-diameter profile pipe. First, the jack is disassembled, then unnecessary parts are removed using an angle grinder. When the two main elements are fitted, they are welded together.

Studs are made in the amount of four pieces. They are also cut out by an angle grinder, observing the dimensions according to the drawing. After that, you will need to weld them to the clamping parts. The entire structure is cleaned, removing traces of welding. You can cover it with paint, so the metal will be protected from the negative effects of moisture longer. Spray paint is suitable for this. The screw that was installed in the jack structure needs to be cut to length. Then proceed to the final stage: install the handle. A good handle is obtained from reinforcement or a piece of steel rod. For convenience, nuts are welded along the edges. Hexagons are perfect.

Such a clamp differs from others in its impressive working width. In addition, it has great downforce..

Device and principle of operation

The clamp is without a doubt a useful tool, often used in various areas of life. Its main task is to produce high-quality fixation of elements on the working surface or any other supporting part. According to the drawing, such a tool must necessarily have at least two elements in the structure..

The dimensions of the do-it-yourself unit depend on the needs of the user. In the arsenal of a professional craftsman there is always a small, long and large clamp. This small arsenal allows you to work with workpieces that can be of various diameters and lengths..

In addition to the supporting surface, there is a movable jaw in the clamp design, which must be equipped with a locking mechanism.

A lever or screw is provided for the sponge to move. They make it possible to increase the force applied during compression and prevent the element from moving backwards when machining the workpiece. From the side of the clamp, it looks very much like a vice.

The tool has also found its use among carpenters. There it is used to fix two elements, between which an adhesive is applied. It does not always work out that the necessary tool is at hand at the right time. If you have a drawing and detailed instructions, you can make the tool yourself. Better to do it from wood or metal. Sometimes an old jack or brake pads are used.

What can be done?

There are many options for what and how you can make a clamp yourself. Most often, the user takes the materials at hand. Good equipment comes from:

  • profile pipe;
  • thick plywood;
  • old bearing;
  • iron grinder;
  • square pipes of various cross-sections.

Made of metal

It is best to use a metal pipe. The result is a tubular structure. You can make a different type of instrument.

It is always worth remembering that the clamp used for solving everyday tasks should be simple and quick so that you do not have to spend a lot of time working with the part..

Additionally, three metal rings are required. Their inner diameter must necessarily coincide with the outer diameter of the pipe. It is allowed to use a metal rod instead of a pipe in the structure. A welding machine is used to create the tool..

The algorithm of work is as follows.

  • The support pads are welded to the two rings. They are made from a metal corner. Better if it’s steel.
  • A nut is placed on the remaining ring, and it is welded to the end of the rod or pipe, whichever is used.
  • A handle is installed on the head of the pancake bolt used, and the bolt is screwed into the ring.
  • A hole is made in the free end where the fixing pins will be installed..
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Such a unit will definitely come in handy if you have to work with the assembly of furniture. In addition, in construction and installation work, you also cannot do without it..

If fittings are at hand, they can be used to assemble the clamp. The process looks like this:

  • at the first stage, the reinforcement will need to be cut;
  • then a sliding part is made, a nut is installed, which is attached to the lever;
  • at the third stage, a screw and a stand are prepared that will rotate;
  • in the rod you will need to cut a thread, then make a shoulder;
  • at the last stage, a handle and a panel on the jaw are made.


If we consider in detail the design of the unit, then it always contains such elements as:

  • lever arm;
  • frame;
  • clamp;
  • movable jaw.

The advantage of such a unit is its durability, since the metal retains its properties for a long time. With the help of the tool, you can carry out a tight screed without worrying about the strength of the unit. When compared with ordinary vices, then such a self-made clamp does not have much weight, so it is easy to carry it with you.

If necessary, you can make a stationary structure.

Metal structural elements ensure maximum grip of the workpiece. Due to this, there can be no question of any turn at the time of processing. The master is sure that even when working with an electric tool, the workpiece will not fall out or slip off. Making a structure according to modern drawings, it is possible to get a universal tool that can be used with parts made of different materials, including metal, plastic, wood.

The shape of the workpiece can be both flat and volumetric, this does not affect the quality of fixation in any way. The length can vary from several to tens of centimeters. Each type of instrument has its own characteristics. For example, screw clamps are most common. They have become in demand due to their simplicity of design and low production cost..

The finished tool is also inexpensive..

Such units look like a metal bracket. The support part is located on one side, and the threaded eyelet on the other. The adjusting screw is located in the second part.

A sponge is installed in the part of the screw, which is called the working screw. The handle is installed from the outside. It is most effective to use the tool when machining large and heavy parts that do not have a complex shape. If we talk about versatility, then in the work of the master, these are quick-clamping F-shaped units. The supporting part of such a clamp is fixed on a long rod. A working element with a sponge slides over it.

The workpiece is fixed with an auxiliary screw. On some models, instead of it, you can find a step-type pressure mechanism. The pipe version of the tool also helps to carry out high-quality fixation of large workpieces..

There are two main parts in the design of such a unit: a sponge and a support platform with a clamp. When you need to combine the workpieces, and an angle of 90 degrees must be observed, you should use an angle tool. It has two supporting and working surfaces, thanks to which you can even glue two parts perpendicular to each other..

The clamp, where there are two hinge-connected parts and a spacer spring, is called a clamp. Such a tool is used infrequently, because the quality of the joint is not reliable. However, there is also one of the significant advantages – the workpiece can be quickly installed or removed, which significantly saves time..

If we talk about making a tool at home, then most often they use drawings for the first three types described. With their help, you can solve most of the everyday tasks. At the same time, the tool is not too picky about the material..


How to do it yourself … homemade … do it yourself

  • Auto-moto-lover
  • Useful
  • To the gardener-gardener
  • Homemade electrician
  • Homemade
  • For the builder


  • Auto-moto-lover
  • Useful
  • To the gardener-gardener
  • Homemade electrician
  • Homemade
  • For the builder

The last notes

  • How to restore a hexagon with your own hands
  • How to install a mixer on the wall with your own hands or “Curved pipes – how to install a mixer?”
  • How to replace a broken tile or how to replace a damaged tile with your own hands.
  • How to repair a remote control yourself. Repairing broken buttons yourself.
  • How to make a mousetrap with your own hands. A simple trap made from scrap materials.
  • DIY miracle shovel, improved or Homemade miracle ripper.
  • How to measure with a caliper. Simple and with pictures
  • How to Refill a Marker or Two Easy Ways to Recover an Old, Dried Marker
  • How to make a do-it-yourself training clicker
  • How to use construction foam
  • How to make a gate with your own hands
  • How to make a floor with your own hands
  • How to make a brazier yourself
  • How to lay a window opening with your own hands
  • How to make an extension cord with your own hands
  • How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands
  • How to make a palette knife with your own hands
  • How to make a muffler with your own hands.
  • Homemade rake
  • How to make a winch yourself

How to cut a car tire yourself or how to cut a tire at home

When you need to cut a car tire (tire) with your own hands, it is better to know some tricks that will not only help make this process more enjoyable and less laborious, but also help protect yourself from injury and make the cut better.

  • First you need to know the structure of a car tire (and any other equipment).

Since the surface that the tire touches the ground is more difficult to cut because there is a metal cord.

To do this, you can use it, like a hand hacksaw, lubricating it with oil or soapy water or an angle grinder with a disc for metal.

I must warn you, if you have never used an angle grinder before, it is better to use a hand hacksaw, since the clamping of the disc when cutting the tire is not difficult to catch. For this procedure, you need to hold the tool firmly and be able to saw correctly.

  • With the side part of the tire, the situation is much simpler, there is no need for a special tool, but care must be taken.

Dacha with their own hands, How and than, cut the tire.

Since cutting is carried out using a sharp knife, which is constantly moistened with soapy water, oil or at least water.

When cutting, it is best to pull back the piece to be cut to reduce the resistance to the knife.

Such a procedure is indispensable in the manufacture of various homemade products from tires, starting with flower beds of various designs and ending with original garden figures and sculptures..

Regruver for cutting a tread with your own hands

Self-made device for cutting a tread on a tire (regruver) with your own hands.

I wanted good off-road tires for the summer, but not very noisy, I wanted something in the A / T style. Looked at the prices for my size 215/65/16 – about twenty thousand per set!
Now there are no such days! Regular new road tires cost about 12 thousand rubles, and if you find used tires, then from 3 thousand rubles. per set!
I compared A / T tires and road tires and understood the difference only in the tread, or more precisely, in the number of transverse cuts and the width of the cuts! On off-road tires there are more transverse slots, the width of these slots is larger, there are no longitudinal slots and, most importantly, side soil hooks!

I watched several videos, with the help of a regruver cutting machine, they change the tread pattern and realized that this is what I need! I looked at the prices for Regruvers and was also a little upset! The cheapest 10t.r., And the normal 20tr..

Without hesitation, I decided to make this regrover with my own hands..

I just had a non-working microwave, I pulled out a transformer from it. I removed the secondary winding and wound a thick copper wire instead. There were not many turns of the secondary winding, about four.

First, I tested a homemade device on an old tire, almost bald. It is best to cut on an inflated wheel and pre-plot the cut line of the mowing line!

Also cut a new tread on a bald winter tire. With the help of a regruver, you can cut any pattern on an old tire. Of course, it is better not to ride on such tires on the highway, but such tires can be used for off-road trips. Thus, you can make tires for a homemade buggy, mini tractor and other homemade equipment..

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Support board

The blanks of the boxes in my design are fastened with clamps to the support board. To make it last longer and not wrinkle from the clamps, for its manufacture I used a larch decking board, which I leveled on a thickness gauge.

At first, I planned to make the support a single board, but it would require a lock on the bottom and, in addition, the bottom edge would be damaged by the saw when cutting the thorns. If I raised the support board above the level of the spikes, then there would be a problem of chips on the workpieces, especially from plywood. Therefore, I made the support board in two parts..

The lower, narrower and shorter part of the support board is rigidly attached to the stop of the tenon cutter base, and the upper part is left movable. It is moved using a wooden block with a nut and a pin along the groove in the bottom of the support board.

In the lower part, I installed a replaceable anti-splinter pad made of MDF. I installed a side stop on the movable part of the support board – strictly perpendicular to both the board and the base plate. Then I attached a block to the edge of the base as an additional attachment and made a cut in the base for the disc to pass..

For safety, in the front part, where the disc comes out, I glued in a protective block. On the sides of this bar there is a place where the handles will be installed for the convenience of moving the tenon cutter along the saw table runners.

To control the position of the disc, I installed two pointers. The first shows when the backing board is set to the “zero” position, that is, when the disc is in close contact with its plane with the side stop. The second helps to count the revolutions when the stud rotates. As a second counter, I used a wooden “barrel”, rigidly fixed to a hairpin, on which I applied risks in 1/4 turn increments..

To ensure faster performance, I used a sandwich of two identical discs and spacers between them. There are special kits for setting the exact width of the groove, but they are expensive, and I do not have one. To get the gasket of the desired thickness, I cut out a duralumin washer with a thickness slightly less than necessary and brought it to the desired size using self-adhesive aluminum tape. I would like to point out that it is better to use new identical discs. I had one new, and the second was already a little used, as a result, when cutting, a small step appears at the base of the spike.

After a lot of trials and adjustments, I got a “sandwich” with a cutting width of 5.25 mm, which corresponds to 3 turns of the stud (1.75 mm x 3 = 5.25 mm). This made it possible to make cleats with a width of 5.25 mm, turning the stud between cuts 6 full turns. If it was necessary to make larger spikes, then the number of revolutions proportionally increased.

Tenon cutter ready to work.

Cutting thorns on a circular saw – “tenoning” with your own hands

Once I needed to make many boxes of different sizes from plywood. As you know, plywood does not like fastening with self-tapping screws to the end and often splits from this..

I had a tenon cutter for a router, but it had low productivity, and besides, when using low-quality plywood, the cutters quickly became dull.

And the sharpening of the cutter gradually changes its diameter, and it becomes impossible to work with it on the tenon cutter. Therefore, the task was set to create a new, more powerful tool with the ability to cut thorns immediately in a pack of blanks to speed up work.

To solve this problem, I used a stationary circular saw, for which I made a special device. I make the grooves with a block of discs, and the accuracy of movement is ensured by a stud, which has a fixed thread pitch. I’ll tell you how I made this device.

Tenon cutter base

An old homemade saw stop came in handy as the base of the thorn cutting device.

On the sides of the stop, I installed vertical posts made of larch, which I additionally reinforced for rigidity with side plates. I pre-pressed the bearings into the racks under the driving pin. The hairpin was used with a M14 thread and a pitch of 1.75 mm.

Moving along the hairpin is done using a wooden block, in which a long nut is hidden. Using a shorter nut may cause the unit to skew while driving..

With your own hands. How to do it yourself

How to cut thorns on a circular with your own hands (tenon cutter)

How to do something yourself, with your own hands. home master’s site

Additional refinement of the tenon cutter

On this, the manufacture of the tenon cutter could have been completed. However, after a short operation, several shortcomings in its work were discovered..

Firstly, counting a large number of revolutions is not convenient – you can easily get lost. Secondly, if an incomplete rotation of the stud was required, then the calculation became even more difficult, and the accuracy fell. Thirdly, since the gap between the pin and the moving support board did not allow the handle to be rotated normally, it had to be taken out to the maximum to the right, and this protruding long part of the pin made the device not very convenient.

To remedy these shortcomings, I decided to mount the “reducer” on a pin of two gears at right angles to each other. The size of the gears was selected so that for one revolution of the driving gear, the pin makes 3 revolutions. The most affordable option for me was to make gears out of wood, so I used 13 mm birch plywood as the material..

I got the drawings of the gears using the Matthias Wandel gear generator, which can be found on his website. Then I pasted the printouts on plywood and cut out the gears with a band saw.

To get the gears well into engagement, their teeth were cut at an angle of 11 degrees. Moreover, he cut different sides of the tooth, respectively, with an inclination in different directions. My band saw allows you to tilt the table in one direction only, so I did not use the tilt of her table, but made an inclined base and attached it with a clamp to the saw table. First, I cut out the left sides of the teeth when tilting to the right, and then I turned the stop and cut out the right sides. I connected both cuts at the base with a hand jigsaw.

13. After that, I sanded each tooth and drilled a center hole..

The gear works only with the upper parts of the teeth, so I did not carefully process their lower parts.

Installation of the “reducer”. First, I cut off part of the right pillar with a hand hacksaw and tried to install a furniture nut for attaching the pinion gear. However, this option turned out to be a failure. Due to the bearing installed in the rack, it was not possible to secure the nut tightly with long self-tapping screws, and the large lever of the drive gear led to strong beats. The idea of ​​just putting a big gear on the bolt was also bad: for the gear to rotate easily, a little play was needed, and it also caused beats..

I had to press the bearing into the gear, and instead of the furniture nut, put a 3 mm thick metal plate with fasteners that went beyond the bearing in the rack. To compensate for the thickness of the metal plate, a recess was made in the gear on the inside.

I installed a handle on the drive gear and numbered the teeth for convenience (a turn by one tooth is equal to 1/4 of a hairpin turn). Downstairs on the counter made a counter to the risk for precise positioning. After that, I sawed off an extra piece of the hairpin on the right and covered the structure with wax for better glide and protection from moisture and dirt..

By turning the pinion by a different number of revolutions, I get studs of different thicknesses and can even make them uneven..