How to disassemble a screwdriver battery?
So, the first step is to take the battery and place it on a hard surface. Personally, the kitchen table came up to me, besides, in parallel with disassembling the battery, you can “grind” something tasty.
Batteries on screwdrivers are collapsible, but they are not collapsible. It is clear that it is more profitable for the manufacturer to make non-collapsible ones, since the failure of the battery automatically implies the purchase of a new battery, only there is one small “НННООО”!
The thing is that the price of a new rechargeable battery for “Shurik” reaches up to a third of the cost of the screwdriver itself! Therefore, as a true Patriot of our country and a level 80 handshake, I didn’t even have a thought about buying a new battery or some fucking Chinese analogue (sorry for my French).
An immediate decision was made. I will disassemble the battery of the screwdriver with my own hands.
How to correctly and quickly disassemble the battery of a Makita screwdriver
Greetings, my dear readers.
I hasten to share with you two interesting news that have not so sickly changed my way of life that has developed over the years:
December 16, 2015 my son was born. Yaroslav :))) Now I have a daughter and two sons.
2. Shortly before the birth of his son, a terrible thing happened. the battery on the Makita screwdriver “died”, which had been plowing with faith and truth for almost five years 🙁
Of course, the first event is much more important for me, but I will introduce you to it in the next article of my blog 🙂
But the news that the battery of the screwdriver came to an end not sickly so undermined my already shaken health, since the “deceased” was immediately buried and a certain amount of alcohol was consumed for the repose of his 14-volt soul. Yes, Megavolt will be with him.
Of course, for all the years of his construction and repair career, your humble servant has “shoved” a huge number of screwdrivers, but Makita has become a real godsend for me. Its ergomics, its reliability. I was captivated by it at first sight!
In general, I could not come to terms with the loss and decided at all costs to repair the screwdriver battery.
After reading a huge amount of literature, graduating with honors from the courses “Novice Warlock”. the department of applied necromancy, that is, the revival of the dead. I got down to work, but from the very first steps I realized that in order to restore the screwdriver battery it was necessary to disassemble it.
How to disassemble the battery of a screwdriver yourself?
We take the battery and begin to carefully cut with an ordinary, but very sharp knife at the junction in the battery.
Then, in order to tear off the layer of glue located lower, I scrolled along the entire length with a self-tapping screw. This must be done carefully, because the body may crack and then you will have to get a haircut as a monk 🙂
When you feel that the battery begins to “crunch”, you need to start tapping the joint with a flat screwdriver
So, my dear hands, I myself disassembled the battery of the Makita screwdriver. Of course, my method is not a panacea, but I know for sure that it works 🙂
12V cordless drill battery cell changing
Dismantling the battery of the Makita screwdriver. video
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How to disassemble the battery of a Makita screwdriver 12 V, sealed with glue
The glue seam should be disconnected especially carefully so that cracks and splits do not appear on the plastic, and when assembled, the case completely covers all the electronic parts and ensures safety. To do this, it is rational to use a mallet with a rubber striker, or another hammer made of soft material.
Around the entire perimeter of the seam, blows are applied, applying medium force, ensuring that the gun slightly bounces off the body. The procedure is not short-term, it takes from 10 minutes. and more should be done without haste. In its course, the halves of the body are periodically pulled slightly apart from each other, helping them to separate. The adhesive layer collapses with a characteristic sound, when specific clicks become more frequent, you can help the separation with a thin knife blade, or a similar tool, trying to open the seam with it.
Another way to gently unfasten the glued module is with a thin knife, flat screwdriver. It lasts a little longer, work must be done with caution, since the risk of injury and plastic cracking is very high. With a blade, gently loosen the seam around the entire perimeter, then insert a screwdriver tip into it and slowly separate the halves of the module.
Before disassembling the battery of the Makita 12 volt screwdriver, you can warm up the glue layer using a construction hair dryer, which will speed up and facilitate the work. Having placed the battery module at a safe distance, a hot stream is directed to the connection, warming it up around the perimeter. When the glue has softened, the case will be easy to open.
Important: gloves used during work will help avoid burns.
Types of fasteners, preparation for work
The battery module can be fastened with:
- glue;
- latches;
- screws.
It is not uncommon for a combination fastener to be used with the simultaneous use of different types of fasteners such as screws and glue.
Before disassembling the battery from the Makita screwdriver, you should measure the voltage issued by the battery pack. This figure will help determine the number of faulty cans. After assembly, the measurement is carried out again, checking the correctness of the work done.
How to disassemble a battery from a Makita screwdriver
The battery for the Makita screwdriver is disassembled in order to replace one / several cans (batteries), or to transfer it to another type of nutrient elements. Work must be carried out with the utmost care, movements must be precise, careful so that the case, banks, electronic boards and wires are not damaged, and the module, after assembly, functioned properly and safely.
Connection with screws, latches
Loosening a screw fastener also requires care. Pick up a screwdriver with a suitable tip shape, rod length. They remember from which holes each screw was unscrewed, and during assembly they are screwed strictly into place. This must be done due to the fact that the hardware can be of different lengths. A short screw screwed into a deep hole will not be able to ensure a reliable connection, and a long screw placed in a short opening can pierce the wall of the case, power elements and even an electronic board. If, as a result, the electrolyte leaks out, the microcircuits and nearby banks will be damaged, and in case of unfavorable development of events, an explosion is possible.
The module, fastened with latches, is easy to open: you just need to find them and open them with moderate force. Most often, one latch is used, or two side.
How to disassemble a battery from a Makita screwdriver
What is the load for?
Let’s work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the lower the resistance, the better.
What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called “voltage drop”. It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is.
The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safe voltage level).
Inside a Drill “repair”
The wires are neatly fixed in the “sockets” of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.
Soldering banks
Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.
When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal in advance. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.
Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.
The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If no drop in RPM is observed for the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled by yourself will not fail, and a self-made screwdriver battery will work properly.
How to disassemble the battery of a screwdriver yourself?
We take the battery and begin to carefully cut with an ordinary, but very sharp knife at the junction in the battery.
Then, in order to tear off the layer of glue located lower, I scrolled along the entire length with a self-tapping screw. This must be done carefully, because the body may crack and then you will have to get a haircut as a monk 🙂
When you feel that the battery begins to “crunch”, you need to start tapping the joint with a flat screwdriver
So, my dear hands, I independently disassembled the battery of the Makita screwdriver. Of course, my method is not a panacea, but I know for sure that it works 🙂
The first step of disassembling the battery of a Makita screwdriver
The Japanese developer offers two types of batteries. collapsible and non-collapsible. Of course, the second option is much more common, since its breakdown automatically implies the purchase of a new element. By the way, the cost of the battery is about a third of the price of the entire tool. We will go the other way. As practice has shown, with a strong desire, even the most non-separable element can be carefully disassembled.
So, we install the screwdriver on a flat surface. Remove the battery and set the tool aside. Now we will work directly with the battery itself.
For disassembly, we need a knife. Use the sharpest possible tool, as otherwise you will only damage the surface of the battery, but you will not achieve the desired result.
Place the battery vertically and slide the knife along the junction in the cell, applying good pressure.
Then the usual self-tapping screw is used. We use it to remove a layer of glue that the knife did not reach. Scroll with a self-tapping screw around the entire perimeter of the joint. Do this as carefully as possible. Otherwise, you risk severely damaging the plastic, and in this case, of course, you will not be able to assemble the battery back.
When figuring out how to disassemble the Makita screwdriver battery without screws, you should understand that the case is attached to the glue. Therefore, you will have to work “by eye and ear.” Scrolling the self-tapping screw around the perimeter, you will hear a slight crunch. This means that the battery is ready for further manipulation. Next, you need to make the parts of the element move away from each other. To do this, use a regular screwdriver. Tap the element along the seam contour, as shown in the example below:
After these processes, you will see that the parts are no longer attached to each other as they were originally. In addition, the body has become more wobbly. After using a screwdriver, your device should look something like this:
As you can see, now nothing prevents you from simply bringing what you started to the end. Gently grasp the two parts of the battery with both hands. Press on both sides and break the battery. The main thing here is not to overdo it. If you feel that the device does not give in to any pressure, you should not put pressure on the force. Better to repeat the process with a screwdriver and finally knock out the second part. You end up with:
Detailed instructions for disassembling the Makita battery are offered at
Charging the batteries
Before disassembling the blocks, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is exactly what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended to clean the internal contacts of the charger with emery paper, because any contact resistance can “give out” an incorrect charging process.
When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that there are definitely faulty cells in the battery. And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the screwdriver battery →
After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it. cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. Banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.
If the signal from the temperature sensor going to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.
We disassemble the battery with a spatula or a stationery knife
For those who are not used to working as a mallet and want to make the battery disassembly process look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a utility knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage plastic.
First, you should completely walk around the perimeter of the entire block with a knife to loosen the seam, and only after that you can begin to “pick” the flexible plastic with a small screwdriver. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if the person is not experienced enough, damage may remain on the plastic case. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without “losses” and in this case.
If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself well to gluing with dichloroethane.
We disassemble the battery with a spatula or a stationery knife
For those who are not used to working with a mallet and want to make the battery disassembly process look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a utility knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage plastic.
First, you should completely walk around the perimeter of the entire block with a knife to loosen the seam, and only after that you can begin to “pick” the flexible plastic with a small screwdriver. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if the person is not experienced enough, damage may remain on the plastic case. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without “losses” and in this case.
If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself well to gluing with dichloroethane.
Soldering banks
Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.
When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal in advance. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.
Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.
The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If no drop in RPM is observed for the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled by yourself will not fail, and a self-made screwdriver battery will work properly.
Charging the batteries
Before disassembling the blocks, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is exactly what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended to clean the internal contacts of the charger with emery paper, because any contact resistance can “give out” an incorrect charging process.
When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that there are definitely faulty cells in the battery. And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the screwdriver battery →
After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it. cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. Banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.
If the signal from the temperature sensor going to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.
What is the load for?
Let’s work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the lower the resistance, the better.
What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called “voltage drop”. It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is.
The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safe voltage level).
The wires are neatly fixed in the “sockets” of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.
How to disassemble a battery using a regular mallet
In order to disassemble the battery from a Bosch screwdriver, Metabo or any other tool of 12 volts or more, you need to make some effort. If you just rip open the edges of the battery pack adjacent to each other with a screwdriver, it will turn out to be sloppy. In addition, there is a greater risk that the fragile plastic structure will simply break.
Therefore, it is recommended to take a mallet and begin to slowly tap on the edge of the seam until characteristic sounds appear, meaning that the seam itself begins to weaken on the sly. It will take a long time to knock, and it will take time and patience. But it is in this way that you can ensure that the disassembly of the battery from the Makita screwdriver will be crowned with success, without unnecessary breakdowns and losses.
After a while, you will hear a crack of a breaking seam. The batteries themselves inside from such manipulations will not be damaged. Only the seam that holds the block will break, and the “cans” and the two halves of the plastic case will remain unharmed.
When we disassemble the block, knock the body with a mallet lightly, without applying any special efforts, so that it bounces slightly off the surface. From time to time, between tapping, you can try to slowly pull back the bottom cover of the block, thereby checking how much the seam has loosened. In such cases, the mallet itself will be slightly damaged, but there is nothing wrong with that.
When the clicks when tapping become regular, you should check the block with some thin knife, carefully inserting it between the halves of the case. When the two parts of the case begin to open, it will be visible. it means that we have almost achieved our goal.
It is worth warning right away that the battery packs of the 12-volt Makita screwdriver are often extremely sturdy and difficult to disassemble. But if you slowly work with a mallet, the seam on the glue will gradually crumble. This may take ten minutes or more in time. But for a person with experience, the whole process takes no more than six minutes.
We measure the voltage
Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the value of U issued by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases “walking” screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense cardboard layers, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.
Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we make each battery an exposure for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually, it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. It is impossible to keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out.
Practice shows that one has only to fail one element from the entire bundle, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any “bank” is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally make sure of this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.
Repeated measurements are taken after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary U values with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which after the initial measurements dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have already become completely unusable.
After the unusable elements are “calculated”, we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put usable batteries from a spare battery. So we redo the whole block, collecting one full-fledged from two.
How to assemble one battery from two
It so happens that the best way out of the situation when both batteries are “hooked” is a way to assemble one full-fledged battery of two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use, and which should be discarded.
For this you will need:
- two batteries,
- Charger,
- any thin and flat screwdriver,
- scalpel,
- a piece of sandpaper,
- two wires,
- load resistance (two are possible),
- voltmeter for voltage measurements.
Disassembly of the gearbox
The first step is to disassemble the tool itself and separate the gearbox. Now it is important to remove all unnecessary details at this stage. To do this, simply empty all the gears from the gearbox. It is worth noting that if there is no information about the exact location of each part, it is better to disassemble it sequentially and carefully.
Record and mark the location of the gears. This is necessary for a high-quality assembly of the gearbox after repair work. You can also use tutorial videos or articles.
Dismantling a Makita screwdriver: repairing the device and battery
Using a Makita screwdriver inevitably leads to wear on some parts of the mechanism. And in order to continue to use the tool effectively, some repair work will need to be done. The procedure for disassembling and repairing such equipment is presented below.
How to repair a Makita screwdriver
One of the most common problems with a Makita screwdriver is first speed problems. At the same time, everything functions perfectly at second speed. This problem is associated with a malfunction of the tool reducer, which does not allow effective use of the first speed. Consider how to get rid of this problem and repair the screwdriver.
Using a drill
The bolts are processed with a drill from the sides and, if necessary, shortened in length. It is necessary to give the bolts the shape of a real tooth and provide for the installation of the crown without interference.
Important! It is not recommended to overheat the bolt while working with the drill. Otherwise, it can become very hot and melt the surrounding plastic. The gear housing will deform, leading to more serious problems. So you need to take breaks while working. To let the bolt cool down.
Once the teeth are ready, the gear ring can be reinserted. If done correctly, it will insert without any interference. Two teeth are usually enough to restore the gearbox to work, so screwing in more bolts is not logical.
Screwing in bolts instead of teeth
After all the gears are removed from the gearbox, the inside of the device will open to the eye. Given the specifics of the problem, most likely the master will see that all the plastic teeth on the inside have been ground off. This happens during long-term use of the device, or in case of gross violation of the rules of use. Plastic teeth are soft enough that they simply grind under the influence of temperature and constant mechanical stress. This leads to the fact that the main gear has nothing to catch on and it starts to scroll.
To repair and restore functionality, it is necessary to restore the teeth. In this case, there is no need to restore all the teeth, but it is enough to install two iron.
To accomplish what you want, you need a drill, small bolts and a drill. It is advisable to use a diamond-coated drill, since it will allow you to effectively grind off the excess part of the bolt in a relatively short time.
Work order:
- At the location of the plastic tooth, a hole is drilled in the side wall of the gearbox. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt. So it will be possible to screw it in with effort and ensure a secure fit.
- Two holes must be drilled diagonally to ensure a secure hold of the gearbox and stable tool performance. Thus, the load will be distributed over two teeth.
- During drilling, it is advisable to direct the drill slightly downward so that later the bolt does not stick out upward. Otherwise, it will take much longer to process it with a drill.
- Now you need to forcefully screw the bolts into the holes obtained.
Makita screwdriver device
The Makita screwdriver is a fairly simple design, which consists of several main parts:
- battery;
- engine;
- reducer;
- mode switch.
Additional devices can be added in some models, but the main components remain unchanged.
The inside of the Makita screwdriver is pretty simple. From the place where the battery is connected, the wires go to the speed switch, as well as the start button itself, from which the contacts go to the engine. The engine is frontally inserted into a gearbox consisting of a whole set of gears of different configurations. The composition of the set depends on the number of speeds or operating modes of the screwdriver. Modes are switched using a special controller, which is brought out.
In a gearbox, gears with external teeth work in close connection with the housing itself, in which the teeth are located from the inside. And if in some parts the teeth are made of metal, then the plastic body itself includes plastic teeth. It is not surprising that such a structure wears out and breaks down over time.
Battery disassembly
First of all, it is necessary to disassemble the battery of the Makita screwdriver. To do this, it is disconnected from the screwdriver, and then all the screws are unscrewed from it. The battery case opens and you can see the design of the cell itself. There will be 10 cans, soldered together and soldered to the power controller.
It is necessary to disconnect the banks from the board. For this, a drill with a special attachment is used.