Drill is a universal tool for drilling, which is used in construction, repair of premises, automotive, engineering, furniture and other industries. In today’s market, you can find models with different designs, power, designed for different drill diameters and adapted for both professional and amateur tasks.
Best Hammerless Drills
These devices have a limited scope: they can only be used for drilling wood, metal and plastic, so shock-free models are purchased mainly for small housework.
Hitachi D 10 VC 2
The tool is equipped with a quick-clamping chuck, which allows you to quickly change the drill, has the function of controlling the number of revolutions, a reverse for twisting the fasteners, is lightweight (1.3 kg), making it convenient to use for a long time. The power of the drill is 460 W, the maximum dimensions for drilling on wood and metal are 2.5 and 1 cm, respectively.
In our rating of shockless type drills, this model is considered optimal in terms of combination of cost and quality, and it is more often purchased for small and medium-sized household repairs, woodwork and small tasks related to drilling metal surfaces. The device is well suited for drilling holes for fasteners, furniture assembly, other structures at an unprofessional level.
DeWALT DWD115KS
This model has an increased power (701 W) and can be used for drilling on wood, metal or plastic. By the diameter of the holes and the size of the cartridge, the device is identical to the previous variety, the weight of the drill is 1.9 kg.
This drill is perfect for regular use in everyday life, it is used in the repair, furniture assembly, behaves confidently when drilling metal. Due to the increased resource and good power, the model will last for many years without the need for service. The cost of the device on average is 6,000 rubles.
Makita DP 4700
This model, manufactured and assembled in Japan, is equipped with a 13 mm cartridge, can drill wood and metal with a maximum diameter of 3.6 and 1.3 cm, respectively. The drill has a power of 510 watts, is equipped with a quick-clamping chuck and can be used for domestic tasks and small repairs. This device is the most expensive in the ranking.
If you want to buy a drill for home repairs, are assembling furniture or processing other wooden structures, this model is optimal for you. Despite the high price and low bundle, the purchase of the device is justified by the first-class quality of parts and assembly, as well as minimal maintenance over the life of the device.
Top Impact Drills
Such devices, having the main function of drilling, are also equipped with a shock option, so that with their help you can work not only with wood and metal, but also with stone, concrete, and other high-density materials. Comparison of the most functional and popular devices on the market will help to understand which drill is better:
SPARKY BUR 150CET KL
The Bulgarian model has a power of 600 watts, is available with classic and keyless chucks with a diameter of 13 mm. The maximum dimensions when drilling wood, metal and concrete are 2.5, 1.3 and 1.5 cm, respectively. In shock mode, the frequency is 37500 beats per minute, while the spindle speed reaches the limit of 2500 rpm.
The cost of the tool is about 4600 rubles, and it is worth it for those who plan an extensive amount of housework, are planning to finish the apartment or cottage from scratch, or simply want to purchase a universal tool with the capabilities of a hammer drill and a drill. Expanded functionality and good quality are the combination thanks to which the model is so popular in the middle price segment.
Bosch GSB 1600 RE
This is a professional tool for working on stone, metal, wood, ceramics and other materials; the power of the model is 700 watts, the maximum speed is 3000 per minute, in shock mode the drill provides up to 25,000 beats / min. The model has functions for adjusting the speed and number of revolutions, reverse for twisting the fasteners, the maximum diameter when drilling brick, metal and wood is 1.6, 1.2 and 3 cm, respectively.
If necessary, purchase a relatively inexpensive, but functional and reliable tool, the Bosch model is optimally suited. This device is widely used in the repair of houses and apartments, construction works, it is used in everyday life and for drilling structures made of metal and wood, and due to its long service life and expanded functionality, it can also be bought for professional needs.
Makita HP 2051 F
This Japanese-made shock model, equipped with a 2-speed gearbox and quick-clamping chuck, has a power of 720 watts, functions for adjusting revolutions, impact frequency in the punch mode, allows you to drill holes in brick, metal and wood up to 2, 1.3 and 4 cm in size.
The use of such a drill is justified if the user has to regularly carry out construction and repair work of varying degrees of complexity with the processing of materials such as stone, concrete, brick, metal, wood, plastic, etc. Due to its high wear resistance and functionality, the device is suitable for professional use However, for home repairs it is rarely purchased, mainly due to the higher price.
The best drill mixers
Often, construction and finishing work involves the need to prepare compositions for painting, plastering surfaces, adhesives or cement mortars for laying tiles and other tasks. Devices capable of stirring building compositions of different viscosity are used by professionals and those who decide to independently carry out a large amount of finishing work around the house. If you need the best drill mixer, you should pay attention to the models listed below:
Hitachi UM16VST
This 2-speed model has a power of 1500 W, a maximum spindle speed of 650 per minute, works with the cartridge M14.
The use of such a tool is relevant for a large amount of work related to the preparation of cement mortars for plaster, masonry tiles, bricks, blocks, etc.
Interskol D-16 / 1050R2
The 1050 W device is equipped with a key cartridge, has reverse functions and reaches 550 rpm when working with solutions. The universal model is used both for drilling and mixing compositions.
The use of such a drill is relevant if you have to work with the preparation of the solution irregularly and little. The tool is purchased for amateur and semi-professional needs, being used with the same frequency for working with fasteners and mixing cement compounds.
In 1895, a German engineer invented the first ever power tool called an electric drill. Mass production only began in 1955.
Very often, an electric drill is used in design and domestic works. In such cases, it is advisable to use not construction, but of smaller sizes and with less power.
When choosing this tool, you need to consider both its main application and the amount of working time. Electric drill is a kind of tool that requires not only special care, but also knowledge about it for more correct and accurate use. If you follow all the instructions, then it will serve you for many years.
In domestic conditions, it is most often used for drilling holes in the walls. This helps in fasteners, both false ceilings, and cornices, mirrors, sconces and other household purposes. Since in our time, reinforced concrete, tile, plastic, metal plastic constructions have become fashionable, this tool will become a good helper for you.
The electric drill most often represents the device in the form of a pistol. The internal filling is a starting switch, a traction converter, a rheostat or a thyristor power regulator, a reverse, an electric motor which is often equipped with a shock mechanism. A chuck is mounted on the drill spindle to install construction or locksmith nozzles. powerful drills in the shaft have a Morse cone landing for fixing the drill in it. It is also very often used grinding tips, or special tripods that turn a conventional hand-held electric drill into a drilling machine, with which you can perform the largest possible amount of work. The angle of the drill allows you to smoothly change the feed.
Some progressive manufacturing firms are increasingly introducing new know-how, which largely affects the consumer properties of tools.
Electric drill application
How, after all, does an electric drill work? When entering it into working condition, the rotation of the cartridge begins, which brings the nozzle into mechanical motion. Using the reverse, you can adjust the direction, and with the help of a rheostat the rotation speed, which is measured by the number of revolutions per unit time.
There are two modes of operation of drills: simple and with a blow.
1. Simple. typical for locksmith and carpentry.
2. An impact drill is used to drill holes in stone, concrete or masonry. The blow mode will allow you to break through a solid layer of the wall in a short time and save your time. The thing is that the drill not only rotates, but also makes reciprocating movements. A special tip, with increased hardness, is designed for drilling stone, concrete, brick and other building materials.
Often, a percussion drill is considered as a full-fledged hammer drill, but do not forget that in terms of efficiency these are two completely different tools. When there is a risk of material splitting, do not use hammer drilling. Such examples may be the edges of the walls, punching holes in tiles or ceramic tiles.
The drill can be used not only in drilling, but also in screwing or unscrewing screws and screws. Having fixed the cartridge in the drill, you can use the nozzles for grinding and cutting materials.
Use extreme caution when working with this tool. To avoid the ingress of small particles, processed metal, it is necessary to use protective glasses in the eyes.
Cam chuck
Many electric drills are equipped with cam chucks. This is a hollow cylinder, on the surface of which an adjusting sleeve or ring moves. The cylinder itself is one of the bases attached to the shaft of the drill, and nozzles are fixed to the other.
Inside the cylinder, along special guides, metal cams move when the adjustment ring rotates. Depending on the direction of rotation, they are moving closer, then moving away from each other. In the cartridge case there is a hole with a tapered surface or thread for mounting on a drill shaft.
A cam cartridge secures the nozzles, both cylindrical in shape and in any diameter. suitable ranges are 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
Direction of rotation and angular velocity adjustment
Changing the inclusion of an electric motor contributes to changing the direction of rotation. A switch is installed on the drill body, which is located near the handle. Switching during operation overloads the engine, so the starting mechanism is designed so that switching would not be possible without turning off.
Angular speed adjustment is used in such drilling cases:
Drilling fusible metals;
Large diameter holes;
To reduce speed when tightening and loosening screws;
at the beginning of drilling.
When buying an electric drill, be guided by its intended purpose, the price-quality ratio also depends on this. Also, not the last place in this matter, is the service life, activity of use and functionality of the purchased tool.
There are several principles by which you should choose a drill model for home use. Consider them.
At home, an electric drill is used for drilling holes, hanging ceilings and other household items. At the moment, most often, in modern construction, such materials as reinforced concrete, tile, metal plastic are used. But wood, brick, metal, are no exception.
If you are going to purchase a power planer, jigsaw, and you already have an electric drill in your household, then a removable power cable (if all the tools are of the same brand and the same company) will be a very useful thing.
AntiVibrationSystem– anti-vibration system, designed to reduce the harm of vibration to humans, reduces exposure by about two times. If you use an electric drill in rare cases, then such a system is not particularly relevant. A handle with a spring damper complicates the work process and affects the price of the tool.
To increase the torque with small dimensions, reduced sizes of the electric drill gearbox have been developed. This improvement is expensive.
When buying an electric drill, pay special attention to the availability of branded instructions and a warranty card. The instrument must have double electrical insulation. this is a body made of non-conductive material, and all current-carrying internal elements are equipped with another independent electrical insulation.
How the drill was tempered
Any master will say that a drill is the most important tool. Even construction specialists who (seemingly) do not use it do not argue with this, although in fact some mixers, and electric screwdrivers, and screwdrivers are called drills by many manufacturers. Even rotary hammers can safely be considered direct relatives of hole drilling machines. Muscle-powered hand drills (at least their real prototypes) have been known since the Renaissance, and the simplest devices for drilling work have been used for several thousand years and occupy their honorable places in many archaeological museums around the world.
Video: How to Disassemble a Bosch Psb 500 Re Drill
It was possible to mechanize, or rather, electrify the process (steam drives already took place) at the end of the 19th century, then more or less compact electric motors appeared, once again turning the world upside down. In 1889, Arthur James Arnot (future Black employee)&Decker) from Melbourne for the first time transferred electric energy to a drill, the task was to optimize the process of drilling stone and coal. so to speak, an industrial version. In 1895, the brothers Carl and Wilhelm Fain from Stuttgart distinguished themselves. They managed to create a drill that you can hold in your hands. a construction and household option. Two years later, AEG released the first production car, similar to modern counterparts. Further, almost nothing essentially changed, only work was done to improve the drill. ergonomics, performance, safety, additional functions.
The first electric drill of the company "Fine", 1895
Now, probably, every man has a drill, well, at least almost all of us at least once, but thought about acquiring it. In any country in the world it is the best-selling tool. Popular recognition is not accidental. The drill allows you to drill a variety of materials, drill with impact, screw fasteners, clean and grind surfaces, knead heterogeneous solutions, cut threads. Some manufacturers offer a lot of special nozzles that make it possible to use the drill as a jigsaw, milling cutter, planer. It is a very controversial usefulness of such functionality, but there is a possibility itself, and it warms.
What is a household drill
Many people ask about the “professional suitability” of a household tool. What are these cars that are several times cheaper than their older brothers? What is the difference? What are they for? Why do companies with near-space technology make simplified versions of their products? Everything is extremely simple: not everyone needs a drill to work with it around the clock, because there are people who have it resting peacefully in the pantry / garage until they urgently need to hang a picture or repair a stool. Here for the home master and cars of the "hobby" class are created. You should not include cheap Chinese brands and outright fakes here. this is often unsuitable for work and an unsafe tool. And, on the contrary, domestic units (some specialists indiscriminately assign them to household ones) are also not from this series. they are quite competitive in commercial applications. The amateur class is a special line of tools or products of individual divisions of reputable world companies that are ready and able to make a special offer to a particular consumer (in the context of “price / quality / functionality”).
Bosch PSB 500 RE
It may seem that companies are strangling professional copies, but this is not entirely true, they create completely different machines. The main feature of a household drill is that they can be operated no more than 4 hours a day, according to the “one to one” scheme (we work fifteen / twenty minutes, we rest as much). Why is that? It usually uses a simple design, less resistant materials, weaker engines. Professional drills have more powerful motors, wear-resistant parts, better protection against aggressive influences (dust, moisture, vibration). What developers of a household drill give us in return, except for a favorable price:
- Extended functionality. as an illustration, a percussion instrument, and even with a reverse (drill, drill, screw), for example, give the Bosch PSB 500 RE. Professional machines have a much narrower specialization.
- Good ergonomics. We have low weight due to the use of less powerful motors, the lack of a metal gear housing, and lightweight parts. The case is replete with soft inserts and overlays. The machine is equipped with a keyless chuck. Original product design (Black&Decker KR753).
- Protection from an inexperienced user. Power characteristics are limited, and operator safety is improved.
- A wide complete set. In the case you can find a set of drills, a spare chuck, bit holder.
- Long warranty period. Some manufacturers offer 2 years, instead of one, as for professional models.
Black&Decker KR753
Further, we will recall more than once about the division of drills into "pros / hobbies", but for now, let’s summarize what has been said. A household tool definitely has the right to exist, it will perfectly cope with all tasks, provided that the loads are moderate. The commercial or amateur destination of a particular drill is always indicated in the passport. Another trouble-free feature is the time of continuous work of a professional drill (at least 45 minutes), and it must also withstand a shift of at least 7-8 hours.
Special Drills
A drill is a multifunctional tool in principle, but for the comfortable performance of specific tasks, some models have a special design, a set of peculiar characteristics. Let’s take a closer look at them.
Hammer drill
A impact drill can help you drill into lightweight concrete or masonry; for soft materials, the feature is disabled. We must say right away that this is not a punch: the impact power here is ten times less (the joules do not even indicate in the manual) and the principle of operation of the striking mechanism is different. In a hammer drill, the main work is done by a ratchet, consisting of their gear couplings, which are disconnected during loading (one of them slides off the other) and the shaft moves forward.
In the puncher, the blow is obtained from the operation of a special “drunk” bearing and pneumatic elements. If the drilling function for the punch is the main, then for the drill, the shock mode is just an auxiliary function. Firstly, only lightweight concrete and brick can take it, and secondly, such a mechanism serves a very short time, thirdly, other tool parameters suffer a little (weight increases, there are spindle backlashes, the accuracy of hammerless drilling is impaired).
The impact power of the drill and its life directly depends on the pressure force of the tool, on the strength and geometric characteristics of the gears, on the location of the ratchet (the farther from the cartridge. the weaker the drilling).
Makita HP2071J
So, an impact drill is a good solution for rare drilling operations “10 minutes a year”, an amateur option. These units can in no way be able to replace the puncher, while for a certain versatility you will have to pay by lowering some standard characteristics. There are no rules without exception, impact drills can be found in professional lines (Bosch GSB 16 RE, Makita HP2071).
Screw for drill fasteners
Working with fasteners is one of the most important functions of a drill, you can pinch a bit and twist self-tapping screws into the chuck of any of them, but some machines are better suited for this than others:
- The presence of a reverse is a very important point, since self-tapping screws periodically have to be twisted during operation, fortunately this function is available in almost all modern drills.
- Variable speed. It is impossible to work with self-tapping screws at high speed. it is necessary to lower. There are preset options, a sensitive button is used, a multi-position gearbox (several speeds).
- Pulse mode (short-term shocks). It is good for dismantling consumables.
- The removable chuck sometimes allows you to install the shank of the bit directly into the spindle (Kress 650 BS). The dimensions of the machine are reduced, its weight is reduced.
- Adjustment of twisting effort. Such a function is considered very specific, it is characteristic of a tool that is allocated into a special class (screwdriver). Read more about cordless screwdrivers in the article “How to choose a cordless screwdriver”.
Kress 650 BS
Perhaps it is worth mentioning drill-drivers with automatic cassette feeding of self-tapping screws, a very convenient device for large-scale fastening works (for example, Makita 6844).
Makita 6844
Drill mixer
Many drills (if not to talk about “clean” mixers with a cartridge for a whisk) with a capacity of 1000 watts or more are able to mix viscous solutions. For such work, they are often combined with elongated additional and D-shaped main handles (Makita 6300–4). In addition to this, powerful drills have a multi-speed gearbox, which allows lowering the gear with increasing torque (Bosch GRW 11 E). The high power of such machines and the presence of several protection systems make it possible to install large equipment in them: large diameter drills, crowns (including for diamond drilling). Many of these drills have a burst sleeve that protects the worker and the machine from damage in the event of jamming (Makita DBM080).
Bosch GRW 11 E
Angle drill
Usually these are lightweight compact machines designed to work in hard-to-reach places. They are equipped with an angular gearbox, so the spindle and accessories are located at a right angle to the housing axis (as in angle grinders), for example, Makita DA3011F. The rest. the angle drill does not have any special differences, well, except that only their power is basically low and there can be no shock function. A real alternative for a highly specialized angle drill are angle nozzles for standard models that allow you to solve special problems.
Makita DA3011F
Choosing the right drill
Power characteristics
On average, the power of the drills is in the range of 500–900 watts, more powerful machines also exist, but their destiny is very large drilling or kneading of viscous solutions (Metabo B32 / 3. 1.8 kW). We always mention that excess motor power affects the dimensions and weight of the product, but in the case of a drill, these points are not so critical, unless of course it is purchased as a screwdriver. Only a sufficiently powerful power plant can provide the necessary torque, the supply of which is simply necessary for drilling large and deep holes, for frequent manipulations with durable materials.
Metabo B32 / 3
Spindle speed In the passports the nominal idle speed is indicated, the larger it is, the cleaner the hole is and the more opportunities for a low-power tool (this scheme is often used in household models). Also, it makes sense to select high speed for an impact drill, and if the device is periodically used for grinding / polishing. For work with fasteners. a high speed is not needed (400-500 rpm will be justified), so you should definitely check the performance of the speed controllers.
The power / frequency / torque indicators are tightly interconnected: when one of them changes, the others inevitably change. you need to choose in combination. Better yet, concentrate on the indicators of maximum tool diameters for various materials, these characteristics will tell you more about the tool.
Design Features and Auxiliary Drill Systems
Reverse makes it possible to twist fasteners and release stuck equipment. By means of a check mark, a through button or rotation of the brush block 90 ° (Metabo UHE 2850) relative to the collector (allows you to save power during reverse movement), the inclusion of the electric motor changes. A good reverse is located at hand and can easily be translated into various positions, but even better if it is connected to the start button so that there is no possibility of switching with the engine running. The ideal reverse provides equal rotation force in both directions (usually the twisting movement is much weaker).
Metabo UHE 2850
Multi position gearbox Designed to reduce gear and increase torque. The first speed is low frequency and high torque, the second / third speed is high frequency and low pull. Obviously, machines with this design are much more functional than the others, since when switching speeds, the output power does not change (Makita HP 2070).
Characteristics of the cartridge. In fact, there are two types of cartridges: key and keyless. The first type to change equipment will require the use of a special key, but it is not unreasonably considered more reliable, therefore it is used for powerful devices and impact drills.
Keyless chucks (BZP) are operated only by hand, here an additional tool is not needed. The keyless chuck with one clutch is tightened with one hand, it can be done even with gloves, it is used only with the spindle lock mechanism (by button or automatically), for example, as in the Kress 850 SB-2 model. The two-cartridge case should be twisted with two hands. BZP is a very convenient thing (you do not need to constantly look for the elusive key and wind it up to the cord, your hands about the corrugation of the gear-crown mechanism are not injured), but sometimes users complain about their reliability and durability. High-quality keyless chucks cost decent money, and sooner or later the chuck has to be changed.
Kress 850 SB-2
Particular attention should be paid to the maximum landing diameter of the cartridge. The minimum is usually not limited (sometimes the cams converge almost to zero, usually up to 1.5 mm), but there is always an upper limit. This is traditionally 10, 13 or 16 mm. Naturally, such restrictions depend on the power characteristics of the machine and are subordinate to them. The “ten” chuck is placed on a light class tool, the 16th drill will be pulled only by a powerful drill, 13. the diameter of the middle peasants.
Metal gear housing directly indicates the instrument belongs to the professional class. Thanks to this design, heat is better removed from moving parts, and the assembly is highly stable, although the mass of the drill will inevitably increase.
Electronic speed control. This is something other than a speed shift gear. In this case, using a thyristor or rheostat. Full-wave adjustment is provided by the degree of pressing the sensitive start key, we press harder. higher speed. The speed can be set in steps, for this a special wheel (Hitachi D10VC2) or a slide switch is used. this control is usually carried out on the case.
Hitachi FDV16VB2
Note that when performing electronic adjustment, we limit the output power of the tool, which does not happen with a mechanical preset.
Advanced models have frequency maintenance system under load (constant electronics), thanks to which the machine monitors the load and maintains the specified parameters due to the power reserves of the motor. It turns out that we can not only clearly tune the tool for a specific material, but also avoid jamming with a sharp change in density or an increase in pressure force (AEG SB 22 2E).
AEG SB 22 2E
I have high-tech drills winding temperature sensors, which eliminates the possibility of damage to the motor during overloads. In critical cases, the power turns off automatically, or the LED lights up.
For powerful drills, it will be very relevant soft start system, which slowly accelerates the tooling to the optimum speed (it is easier to start drilling exactly at the mark), excluding starting jerks (increases the durability of transmission elements) and overloading of electrical networks (AEG SB2E 1200 RST).
Impulse Work Drill it helps to unscrew the fastened fasteners, start drilling without turning, “defeat” too hard material. Interestingly, such a system works on the principle of a jump in load, as with inrush currents (Metabo SBE 900 IMPULS). Using this function within reasonable limits will solve a number of complex problems, but it is worthwhile to understand that in this mode the tool works extremely, the wear of the most important components increases.
Metabo SBE 900 IMPULS
Another point is the opportunity power button locks (SPARKY BUR 150CET). What does it give? Firstly, during operation, it is possible to release the key and change the grip of the tool, just relax your hand. Secondly, only such drills can be installed permanently on a tripod or in a magnetic rack (Metabo B 7532/4), it turns out a lightweight drilling machine.
SPARKY BUR 150CET
The most important little things
- Choosing a specific model, it’s not enough just to understand the technical characteristics of the tool, you also need to find your own, the most convenient one.
- We always recommend that you thoroughly “shake” the machine in your hands, paying particular attention to the configuration and type of handles, both primary and secondary. Someone will prefer thin pens, others more voluminous. Feel the linings, it is better if they have a corrugation and a non-slip surface.
- Try to feel the weight distribution of the drill, there are very interesting options in this regard, for example, with the pistol grip shifted forward (DeWalt DWD215G).
- Be sure to evaluate the availability of all controls, their information content and ease of switching.
- Take a look at the length of the power cord and the material from which it is made. Soft long cable will significantly increase comfort when working "in place".
- Check how well the chuck holds the drill, how simple / difficult it is to change, what is its real minimum and maximum (drill diameter).
- Touch the machine for spindle play.
- Run the drill in various modes, try to determine the possible beating, noise, power loss under load.
- Pay attention to the possibility of stationary installation. Usually the size of the seat in the tripod is 43 mm in diameter.
- Compare the packaging of competing products. A case, drills, a metal depth gauge, a spare cartridge. all these things, if they are branded (!), Cost a lot.
DeWalt DWD215G
Once again, I would like to say, choose a tool based on the predicted loads. Focus on the maximum allowable snap size. Do not chase additional lotions "to be." Keep in mind that only the part that is not in the structure does not break in the tool.