Hello! Please advise how to dissolve the boards into bars using a hand-held circular saw? To make it as accurate as possible! Thanks in advance!
By means of a hand-held electric circular saw, it is possible to dissolve the boards into bars of the required size.
Requirements for equipment and accessories are as follows. It is considered optimal if the power of the circular is more than a kilowatt, preferably about two.
The circular can be equipped with a dimension bar (usually sold with a saw), and in addition two screw clamps with wing nuts (also supplied).
how dissolve board on thin bars
Then, of course, when our client is not wedged out, plug the plug into the socket, not the end of the board, put it on the plane of the saw. Do not push the board with light pressure in the direction of the rotating saw blade. The end of the board that you hold with your hands should be 15 centimeters for the entire period. Twenty above the plane of the circular, then it is easier to move the board forward.
How to safely cut small blocks on a circular
Getting the same parts
Getting the same cut. Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that the same lengths are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut-off part can be caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is to either not bring the longitudinal stop to the disc a little, or to fix the separating block on the stop, which would play the role of an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.
Cutting off identical workpieces. Attach a wooden block to the stop extension rail, which will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.
Today, a workbench table does not hurt, the longer, the better. About two meters, which saved not three, at least enough. In extreme cases, instead of a workbench, they simply use an edged wide board as a base. On which a loose board is laid.
To dissolve, it is better together with an assistant, alas, if you wish, it is possible to do this more than one.
The operation is performed in two ways.
The first option is stationary, when the circular is attached to the workbench in an inverted form with two clamps in the form of clamps, then they are disk upside down. The protective casing of the circular is simultaneously fixed in such a position so that it does not interfere with the work, why they are not reliably wedged tightly with a wooden home-made wedge inserted between it not by the case of the circular. Violation of safety precautions! Alas, all this is often done, taking personal responsibility for the possible consequences.
Then the dimension bar is set not attached so that the size between its guide (parallel to the plane of the saw blade) corresponds to the width of the future bar. Then there is the option to dissolve the edged boards on all these bars. When your unedged boards do not have wane at their edges, then at first these wane are also removed in the same way.
Since what remains to be done for our client, the existing circulars have a switching system with a lock (two buttons), their keys (as well as the protective casing) are jammed so that the circular is constantly in the connected position. And turning on and off is done by inserting without removing the plug on the circular wire into the outlet. To busy must be a fast, not blocked passage!
Installation of the longitudinal stop. The rip fence that runs along the entire worktable from edge to edge is ideal for sawing artificial wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such a stop can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut cut in surface-hardened wood would pinch the blade if it were not for the riving knife, such internal stresses can push the cut apart until the workpiece is pressed against the saw blade and jammed or possibly ejected. If the stop has front and back adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end protrudes about 25 mm beyond the front edge of the part of the saw protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Alternatively, attach a block of wood to a stop to provide such a gap. For any installation method of the stop, it must be parallel to the disk.
Adjust the cutting width to the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check that it is correctly set. If you don’t trust the scale, use a ruler measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before turning on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.
Sawing a wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece from the rear of the board with one hand (not on the same line as the saw blade), and with the other hand press the board against the table and the fence at the same time. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that it is you who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.
PUT APPLE CIDER VINEGAR ON YOUR FEET AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS!
Sawing narrow boards. When finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. a rail with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Store pushers close to the machine so that they are always within reach when you need them.
Folds, grooves and tenons
Swing washers. A pair of chamfered. wobbling. washers make the edge of the blade wobble from side to side and make a wider groove than a regular cut. Another way is to install the slot head. It is necessary to change the standard table insert to another one with a wider saw blade slot.
Fold seam. Two straight rip cuts result in rebates on the workpiece. Make the first cut on the narrower edge of the part, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide sufficient support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove any waste wood. Carry out the second cut so that the cut of wood is not on the side of the stop, as the trim caught between the stop and the blade can be forcefully thrown out by the rotation of the blade at the moment of cutting the last fibers.
Sawing a groove. The swing saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. In the absence of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, resetting the rip fence to the width of the blade, make alternate cuts until you have selected the entire groove between the two cuts.
Sawing a comb. To obtain a center ridge, make two identical folds on the edge of one of the joint parts. Make the first cut on a narrow edge, then turn the workpiece over with the other end to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove trimmings from both sides of the comb.
Thorn execution. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making dowels. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during machining. Fix with screws two wooden blocks of the same thickness on a 400×200 mm plywood sheet. Both sticks should be aligned with the long side of the plywood and leave room for the piece to fit between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Use screws only from one end of the bar, farthest from the saw. To prevent the template from wobbling, glue an additional stop.
Lock the blank onto the template and make one pass to cut one face of the tenon. Flip the workpiece to cut the second face.
Then cut off some of the excess wood from each side of the tenon to check if it fits into the socket. If necessary, make adjustments to the stop setting before working with subsequent workpieces.
To make the shoulders, fix the dividing block on the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned in relation to the blade.
If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders, and then remove the waste in volumes of one blade thickness per pass.
You can modify the template to make a cut in the bevel.
Straight open tenon connection. This gusset is used in box-type product designs. Making it by hand is a very laborious process, but on a circular machine with the help of a simple device, you can cut out several such joints in a matter of minutes. Use a wide kerf blade or use rocker washers to pick out the lugs (the grooves between the cleats). Calculate the distance so that you get a whole number of evenly spaced pins on both parts of the joint.
To make a template, attach a long piece of wood to the bevel stop and, set the height of the blade just above the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.
Cut the hardwood plank so that it fits snugly into the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the plank and glue this piece of the plank into the cut so that you get a short protruding spike.
Reinstall the template on the bevel stop and place the rest of the plank between the blade and the spike of the template, and then fasten the template to the bevel stop and remove the plank.
Place the first part of the joint on the end and rest it against the protruding spike of the template. Fix the workpiece.
Make a cut along the saw, then put the resulting cut on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet with a new cut.
Continue working in this order until the entire row of pins has been completed.
The cleats on the second part of the joint must be shifted to align with the lugs on the first part. Place the second part on the end, as in the previous operation, but place the rest of the bar between it and the spike of the template.
Then, taking out the bar, make the first cut, then put it on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet, repeating the procedure the required number of times.
Place on the side on the glue and after it dries, trim off the protruding parts of the thorns flush.
The nozzle for removing bark from logs is applied due to the wedge transmission. Attachment takes place with belts. special pulleys are used for this.
Circular saw. high productivity and ease of use
A circular saw is the best option for performing work. It has excellent performance and allows you to cut a considerable number of blanks in a relatively short time, and with high quality. In addition, such a saw allows you to make a longitudinal cut of the material, but you need to know how to cut the board along exactly.
One of the most important criteria when choosing a circular saw is the maximum cutting depth. There are devices on the market that cut materials with a thickness of 30 to 130 mm. That is, you can pick up a machine both for cutting only thin boards, and for sawing bars.
It is also worth paying attention to the cutting tool itself. Discs with a large number of teeth will provide a neat, high-quality cut, while the cutting speed will be low.
Sawing technique along
The most difficult step in the process is making the first cut. For this you need:
- install a guide ruler, which consists of two boards that are fastened together at an angle of 90 degrees;
- after that, it is necessary to place the log to be sawn on the supports and fix it;
- then it is important to check if the log is level;
- at the next stage, it is necessary to fix the leading ruler on the supports using self-tapping screws;
- after that you can start creating the first saw cut.
Rip saw attachment
When using such a nozzle, the sawing occurs in the horizontal direction. It is fixed to the rail with special clamps and allows you to create boards of equal thickness. After the work, the boards are dried, and after that they can be used in construction.
How to cut a board exactly
How smart and smart our people are!
Sergey Burkov: How to dissolve a 3-meter board so that both the resulting halves are, for example, 10 mm in thickness
BANDIT #: you explain it to schoolchildren, with a countersunk head, etc.
COMPUTER: And if the board is 2 meters long? How will you put it on the priest?
Nikolay Sitkov: Ha, I didn’t have enough mind before the hacksaw, although I faced this problem more than once.
HOW ?: trees, take care of your fingers, bro. I wouldn’t do that)))
Workshop on the balcony: Simple, cheap and cheerful :))). Like
Mike VIZ: Hello, you have already had this circular in the frame several times. Is it AEG or another company? Can you take a review, I choose a saw for myself, I would like to hear the advice of an experienced person, what is worth paying attention to.
Features of sawing logs when using a chainsaw
It is quite simple to create additional equipment for sawing logs:
- To create a support, a frame is used, which can be created from the legs of a school desk. The most suitable are pipes with a square section of 20 × 20 mm.
- When constructing the frame, it is necessary to create 2 clamps, and fix the cross member at one end. This element must have holes for the tie bolts. A protrusion for the tire is created in the middle.
- In order to cut a log lengthwise, it is necessary to design a support frame, the width of which should be at least 8 cm in length.
- For ease of use, a handle should be welded to the frame.
- Before carrying out work, it is necessary to carefully check whether the frame is securely attached to the tire.
Using a homemade tool is easy enough. Before sawing, you need to install 2 trestles. they will be used as a support for the log. In addition, a metal rail or flat board is prepared, which will serve as a guiding element.
BURGER and FRENCH FRIES after 60 days in Epoxy Resin / What Happened??? / RESIN ART
Sawing along the grain.
But discs with a small number of teeth will provide high productivity, but the cut quality will also be worse.
Now about how to cut straight with a circular saw. One of the conditions for high-quality performance of work is reliable fixation of the workpiece. If the material is weakly fixed, then when cutting the board may “go”, and the cut will be uneven.
If the circular saw is hand-held, then all work should be performed on a workbench equipped with stops and guides for the workpieces. Such a device can be made independently, taking any table as a basis.
It is important to set the cutting depth correctly before starting to cut. Some hand saws have an adjustable side guide that can be used to rip through the material. If there is no such device, then use the same workbench.
convenient in terms of work is the table circular, which is already equipped with everything you need. guides, clamps. Often, such equipment allows you to make and cut workpieces at an angle.
During the sawing process, it is important not to exceed the force on the tool, otherwise the cut quality will be low, the increased load on the saw will lead to a rapid dullness of the cutting blade.
Do not forget about safety precautions when using such equipment. Work should be carried out only after checking the serviceability of the saw and the correct fastening of the workpiece. Also, do not neglect protective equipment. masks, glasses.
How to cut logs into planks using a circular
So how can you cut a log into planks? And is it possible to cut logs into planks using a regular circular? Below we will try to answer these questions and describe in detail the process of sawing logs into boards using a conventional circular saw.
For longitudinal sawing of logs, a machine called a saw frame is usually used, in which the cutting tool is band saws stretched in a reciprocating frame. On such a machine, a log is dismantled into planks in one pass. In this case, the log is fixed on carts moving along the rails. The log moves strictly progressively, without turning around its axis. The rails along which the cart moves play the role of guides, therefore they are set quite accurately.
A similar longitudinal sawing of a log into boards can be performed using a circular, if the longitudinal movement of the log is ensured. It is clear that on a horizontal circular table it is difficult to hold a round log in the desired position. When sawing on boards, it will necessarily roll, and also “scour” left and right. This situation must be excluded. Let’s say right away that you can’t count on a circular saw as a guide. On the contrary, the saw should be completely relieved of this role. Therefore, to fix the log in the desired position, we came up with a rather simple additional device. a fin. So we called this device when we adapted a circular saw for sawing small aspen logs during the construction of a Russian bath. Together with the ruler (side guide) installed on the table, the fin really helped us.
|Fig. 1. How to cut a log into boards using a circular saw: 1. clamp; 2. spacer; 3. fin; 4. circular saw; 5. log; 6. circular table; 7. guide ruler; 8. an emphasis of the clamp; 9. gasket; δ. thickness of the board to be sawn off.|
The thickness of the fin corresponds to the width of the cut, and the fin is installed with the possibility of adjusting its position. Dissolve the log onto the boards together. They start sawing a log along the way, simply by pressing it against a ruler, that is, as they usually saw boards. After the fin is completely in the cut, a spacer with a thickness slightly larger than the cutting width is inserted into the latter (from the end of the log). A piece of flat file came up as a spacer. Further, a special clamp-handle was installed at the end of the log, which, firstly, held the board near the log until the end of the cut, and secondly, for which it was convenient to pull the log. The file-spacer, which has a notch on both sides, kept the board well “in place”, that is, the cut board did not move relative to the log from vibration. The design feature of the clamp was that it had an additional jumper, which, when the clamp was installed in the diametrical plane of the log, when applied by hand, does not allow the clamp to rotate upward around the axis of the clamping screw. In order for the cuts to be parallel when sawing the logs, a flat is formed on the lower part of the log (first with an ax, and then with a plane), which will determine the correct orientation of the cut at the beginning of sawing. The position of the ruler. its distance from the saw. determines the thickness of the board. So, the presence of a ruler on the table, flats on the log, as well as “fin” and clamps will ensure the success of sawing. One of the “sawers” during work pulls the logs by the clamp, the other presses the log to the ruler.
If you have to work alone, then you have to build something else. Firstly, in front of the machine (from where you are going to push the log), you should install a support for the log (goats) with a height equal to the height of the machine table. Secondly, in front of the saw on the machine table, a clamping device is required that can ensure the contact of the log with the ruler from the beginning of sawing to the end. The clamping device must reliably hold the log at the ruler, without creating a large resistance to the log pulling during sawing. Such a device, assembled from a small wheel with a pneumatic tire, for example, from a children’s bicycle, and a pivoting arm is shown in Fig. 2.
|Fig. 2. Clamping device: 1. nut (rotary), 2. clamping screw; 3. front fork; 4. wheel; 5. “chain” fork; 6. carriage assembly; 7. traverse; 8. the tip of the “chain” fork.|
The lever is most easily made from parts of an old bicycle frame. The seatpost and lower tubes are sawn off from the carriage assembly, leaving only the “chain” fork, from which, in turn, the rear fork is separated. The front fork, after removing the tips from the feathers, is welded to the “chain”. A bicycle handlebar handle is put on the front fork rod. In the middle of the “chain” fork (opposite the front fork), plates with slots for installing the wheel axle are attached (welded) to its feathers (see Fig. 2). In addition to this part, you will need to make a swivel nut. a support for the pressure screw, the screw itself, a traverse and a lever axis. You will also need some fasteners (nuts, washers, pins), shown in fig. 2.
Before sawing the log onto boards, flats are formed on it (bottom and sides). The lateral flats of the log ensure the severity of the direction of its forward movement during sawing and the constancy of the force of the pressure wheel, which makes the work calm and confident. Before starting sawing, the wheel is pressed against the log manually, while simultaneously turning the screw by the handwheel. The screw in this device serves only to fix the position of the lever with the wheel, therefore it is equipped with a small handwheel, for example, from a water tap. This makes it possible to dose the force of the wheel on the log “to the touch”.
Now the market offers a wide range of woodworking equipment. There are many varieties of motor and power saws. If you are going to dissolve the logs on the boards for a long time and in earnest, and you do not have a machine yet, consider using a saw from a chainsaw as a saw unit. Its drive will have to be placed under the machine table, like a circular, and the saw itself will have to be installed vertically above the table. With the help of such a machine, you can cut logs of much larger size into boards and prepare sawn timber for doors, windows and other large products.
How to cut a log into planks
Wood, like natural stone, is one of the most ancient building materials. Despite the huge selection of various artificially created materials existing today on the construction market, timber is still highly popular. In order to get high-quality lumber, the log must be cut into boards. In this article, we will show you how to cut a log into planks.
Chainsaw. multifunctional tool!
In order to perform this type of work with a chainsaw, you do not need to take a lot of actions at all! But this is not for beginners. For those who begin to perform this type of work! And you have to do this practically from scratch; it would be best to purchase a machine. You can read about how to make it in my article here.
You will need it in order to fix the logs, you also need a cutting guide and attachment frames. all this is used for the same purpose! No, of course, you can try to make all these products yourself, with your own hands, but remember that the equipment will be under heavy loads, so at the most important moment, some trouble may happen to home-made devices that could threaten your life and health.
First of all, it will be necessary to make guides: we fold two neat boards and fasten them in the shape of a half-tee. Then, from various pieces, we create stops for a half-T-rail! It seems so far everything is clear and simple!
We lay the log on a flat platform, which we will prepare in advance, then we will roll the object from place to place, this can be done quickly and conveniently with the help of a turner. We fasten the frame to the tire with nuts very tightly so that it does not fly off even in the event of an earthquake. We fasten the supports, they are needed in order to press the ruler to the ends of the logs!
The ruler itself is needed for the worker to see the width of the board. We will fix all the fasteners with self-tapping screws, so that for sure something does not fly off at you at the most crucial moment! Then the most interesting part of the work begins, because all the preparations, for the most part, have already been completed.
It remains only to check the line of the cut, it should go 10 millimeters above the ruler! So, holding our breath, we start the saw and make the first cut. Then you have to free the log from any glands. stops and rearrange the structure to the next mowing line of the cut, but this must be done as carefully and accurately as possible so that the first cut is perpendicular to the first cut!
Then we turn the log again and fix it with boards to the stops that are on the ground! We start the unit and saw… saw. sawing, enjoying our work.
Yes, cutting at home is hard work, but you will do everything efficiently and on your own! Just remember, for this business you need more than one such device, it is better to make a right angle on the trunk, and then you can harvest boards of any width.
Log sawing tools
The choice of the right tool for sawing a workpiece depends on many criteria. These include:
- dimensions of workpieces for cutting,
- the quality and quantity of the required lumber.
To cut a large number of pieces and get a large amount of quality lumber, it is best to use a sawmill. This is a machine for processing wood, the working tool of which is different saws. Designed for longitudinal cutting of logs up to 6 meters long and 20-80 cm in diameter.
At large woodworking enterprises with large volumes of production, specialized mowing lines are used for cutting wood. On the mowing line, you can cut different-sized logs, while obtaining lumber of exactly the specified size with high-quality processed surfaces. mowing lines are characterized by high performance.
To obtain a small amount of lumber for the needs of a small farm from logs 2-3 meters long and 30-50 cm in diameter, you can use a chainsaw. Please be aware that sharpening chains for rip sawing is different from sharpening for rip sawing.
For longitudinal sawing with your own hands, you can make a wooden stop. a leading ruler that will allow you to cut the log evenly. The stop consists of two wooden boards, one of which is fixed perpendicularly in the middle of the other. The device is screwed to the workpiece with self-tapping screws so that the upper edge of the vertically located board is below the upper edge of the log. The difference between the top edge of the log and the top edge of the board determines the thickness of the slab to be sawn off.
Types of cutting logs
Before you start cutting the workpiece, you need to decide how to get a high quality end product with the least amount of waste. The wood is not uniform in quality, the lower part of the trunk yields the most valuable lumber. When sawing from a log, you can get the following types of sawn timber:
- timber. lumber, with a thickness and width of more than 10 cm. The most common type is a four-edged timber, square in cross-section. It is used as a building material and in the manufacture of furniture;
- board. lumber, up to 10 cm thick and double the width. Boards are obtained from logs or beams and are used in construction and furniture industry.
With theoretical knowledge and practical skills, you can make boards and bars with your own hands.
What equipment is used
In production conditions, various professional tools and special equipment are used for sawing logs, depending on:
- material length;
- its thickness;
- quality for products.
In domestic conditions, it is usually unavailable, but it is successfully replaced with a conventional chainsaw, a woodworking machine with a circular saw, or a hand hacksaw for wood.
At enterprises engaged in the production of lumber, mowing lines are used for sawing wood. This equipment is highly efficient and allows you to get a quality product.
Sawmill. a machine for cutting logs into boards
One of the types of sawmill equipment includes a sawmill. a woodworking machine on which frame saws are installed. After processing, as a result, a bar and an edged board are obtained.
Only logs of a certain size can be used as raw materials:
- the length should not exceed 7 m;
- the diameter range is much wider and ranges from 150 to 800 mm.
A board made from the side of a log is called a slab.
Round timber is also sawn using circular saws called circular saws or circular saws. Such machines are subdivided into:
|Single saw||Used to work with material of small size and low quality.|
|Multi-rip||Designed to handle large material.|
Most often, logs are processed on band sawmills, which allow sawing round timber both horizontally and vertically. Thanks to the high quality sawing of the logs, very little waste is left after the final material is obtained.
But this is not the whole list of equipment used for large-scale production of sawn timber. There are also highly specialized machines that are used only in certain branches of woodworking.