Fixing Plastic Parts Yourself. 3 Easy Ways
There are a huge number of plastic parts in today’s cars. This includes the bumper, radiator grill, various fasteners, plugs and containers. Sooner or later the plastic wears out and cracks. Something has to be replaced, but something can also be repaired. ZR tells and shows how to do it.
Manufacturers love the relatively cheap, pliable and lightweight plastic. And car owners have a reason to like it. the parts made of this material are very well repaired. So there is no need to regularly go broke to replace damaged parts.
Before we tell you how to repair plastic products, let’s pay attention to some of their features. Today manufacturers use different kinds of plastics, including ABS plastic, polypropylene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride and others. They all have different properties, so before you start repairing, you should definitely find out which material you are dealing with. The marks help you, they are on every part. Trying to weld two parts made of different plastics you waste your time: a connection of, for example, polypropylene to ABS-plastic will not work and is extremely short-lived.
Let’s get back to the repair and tell you how to repair plastic parts with glue and solder. We have the damaged part in front of us. Here we go!
Gluing
This way of repair is pretty simple. You need a special glue, ours is dichloroethane, it’s the most affordable and it works great with ABS plastic. You will also need a brush, preferably a synthetic one. It is convenient that after the first use you can cut the glued hairs and heat the rest of them to make them fluffy.
So, we take a brush, soak it in dichloroethane and apply it to the glued parts or parts. first one, then the other. It is better to put the compound in two layers, as the first, preliminary, will begin to actively corrode the plastic. Put the parts together, press and wait. Dichloroethane takes a long time to dry, up to six hours. With patience, you get a whole piece!
How to put a hammer on the handle
A hammer, it would seem. is an elementary tool, consisting of only two parts. However, if the two parts are not joined together correctly, working with a hammer becomes not only difficult, but also unsafe. In this article, the master plumber will tell you how to attach the hammer to the handle, so it does not fly off during intensive work.
On the intricacies of putting a hammer on a wooden handle
Nowadays there are construction hammers on the market with handles made of metal or synthetics, so there’s no need to put them on. However, along with modern tools, it is not uncommon to use traditional hammers with a wooden handle.
The popularity of wooden handles is not only due to their cheapness. Wood is a light material, and for hammers, this is an extremely important parameter. The handle should have a light mass, and its head should be weighty. This is necessary to increase the force of the blow. Using homemade wooden holders, a person has the opportunity to adjust the tool depending on their anthropometric features, taking into account the thickness of the handle, its length and other dimensions.
To work properly, tools need to be kept in perfect order. This is especially necessary if you have to use the tools quite often. To hammer a few nails a couple of times a year, one can also use a bad hammer with a crumbled handle. However, if the hammer is the most essential tool for the job, it must be maintained in excellent condition. If the tool is not in proper condition, then you risk not only injuring yourself, but also causing harm to others, if there is a popping of its striking part.
It is important to note that with dangling tools this happens quite often, not only because of material wear, but also because of the improper fit of the percussion part on the holder. In addition, the wood used as a handle is of particular importance.
What wood material is used for the handle of a hammer?
First of all you should exclude the wood species that splits and cracks easily. These include spruce, pine, aspen, alder, etc. At the same time hornbeam, maple, mountain ash, dogwood, ash, oak, beech or birch are recommended as a handle for steel hammers.
The most common handle for hammers is made of birch wood. If you have made your own handle from a thick birch tree branch, you should dry it in a warm, shady and well-ventilated place.
Do not dry the wood with artificial heat sources: electric fireplaces, heaters, heating batteries. This drying process inevitably causes the wood to crack and lose its strength.
If the wooden handle for the hammer shaft is not sufficiently dried, it will eventually dry out and shrink in volume, and the head will dangle on it, constantly threatening to fly off the handle of the tool.
You must prepare the handle blank for the tool head. To do this, the side with the smaller cross-section is adjusted to the hole in the head with a joiner’s knife, a wood file or an emery wheel.
The seating of the handle should fit snugly and freely into the head hole and lengthwise into the head hole.
If the hammer is not perfectly straight, but has curves, it is necessary to make appropriate technical bends in the wooden handle, which will strengthen the tightness of the tool.
Once the head of the hammer is firmly seated and there is no more movement of the handle in the striking part, it is necessary, with the help of a wood drill, to make two interconnecting holes in the handle, for the bolt and nut-cylinder. To do this, measure the depth and select the appropriate drill bit. With a firm hand, fixing the handle, drill a hole.
Soldering technique
In most cases you will only need:
- A soldering iron. A simple one with a flat tip, used in electronics with tin solder.
- Respirator. To protect the respiratory organs from plastic gases (a fume hood is the best solution).
If your plastic is thin, missing a piece, or you need to make it liquid-tight or restore electrical safety, you may also need
- Disposable plastic strips.
- Clip or wire.
- Superglue, solder clamps, or another way to hold the parts in place that you weld them together.
Important! Some plastics break quite easily when exposed to sunlight and collapse on their own. In these cases, welding won’t help.
Preparing the soldering iron
When making holders, it is important to consider the fact that the size of the workpiece should be longer than you want to get in the end. Maximum reach is about 5 cm. Mainly the handle should go to a taper towards the end that faces the impact part of the tool.
The process of putting the handle on the hammer
Often the size of the hammer head hole is slightly wider at the top and bottom inlets than in the middle. Thus the sizes of blanks for the handle in the thin end part should correspond to the sizes of holes in the middle of the striker part of the tool. It is necessary to check whether the hole for the handle on the striker is made well with the tool. How it was made you can see in the photo.
It shows the beater of an old hammer that needs to be pretreated. You will not be able to execute the handle assembly without this work. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the casting of the striker was made rather poorly, there is a large presence of metal tips and irregularities, each entrance of the hole on both sides is different for 6-8 mm than in the striker centre.
To correct all defects and irregularities it is necessary to file the inside and outside of the striker. Then insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the hammer to get the dimensions right. The tip of the handle should be flush with the opposite side of the striker. If the handle is thicker than the corresponding holes then it is necessary to sandpaper it so that the element is inserted in the hole of the hammer with a certain tension.
Because we achieve a hollow taper at the end of the handle, the hammer head will be drawn tighter as it dives deeper into the hammer head. It is worth mentioning that in the process of this it is important to take into account that the striker on the handle should be placed without tilting, and should be placed at right angles.
To hammer the handle into the hole of the striker you need to strike it with the back side vertically against the anvil, workbench top, etc.
The weight of the striker part of the hammer slowly builds up on the expanding cone of the handle when subjected to its weight. At the same time, hitting with hammers or hard objects on the back of the handle is categorically not recommended, because this will lead to its cracking. This method can only be used when attaching a non-metallic striking part (wooden or plastic), e.g. for a mallet.
When the head of the hammer is firmly seated and no more movement of the handle is observed in the striking part, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part with the hacksaw blade, giving half a centimeter above the striking head beforehand. This is why a longer workpiece must be used.
Locksmith with his own hands
Technological process of production. Calculation of cart manufacturing cost, prices. Health and Safety at Work.
Automating the grinding device
Modular PLCs for medium automation tasks. Modernization of automatic machine control on the abrasive machine for large-scale trade of EVRAZ NTMK JSC.
The shape of the hammer handle
According to GOST, 3 shapes are used for the execution of the handle under the hammer. However, the hammer master can produce other ergonomically convenient shapes at his discretion. It is often practiced during independent production of handles, but how correctly one of the variants of State Standard is taken as a basis.
When you make the handles it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece should be longer than you want to get in the end. The maximum allowance is about 5 cm. Mainly, the handle should go to the narrower end that faces the striking part of the tool.
Choosing the shape of the handle of the hammer
According to State Standard, 3 forms are used to produce a holder for a hammer. However, a master can perform other ergonomically convenient forms of handles at his discretion. It is often practiced when making handles by yourself, but as a rule, one of the GOST variants is taken as a basis.
When making the holders it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece should be longer than it is necessary to get at the end result. The maximum allowance is about 5 cm. Mainly the handle should go to the tapered end, which faces the percussion part of the instrument.
Making hatchets, handles for hammers, chisels and chisels
Analysis and comparison of the results.
3.Evaluation of the practical work.
What did we learn during the lesson, what did we learn, where can we apply the acquired knowledge and skills??
What is technical designMaking sketches and drawings.
Motivation of marks for the lesson, putting them into a journal and diaries
IX. Announcement of the preparation for the next lesson
In the next lesson we will be studying with you the topic “Sequence of making a sledgehammer”. Bring: Drawing tools. [/td]
Working with a sledgehammer. hitting it hard
The sledgehammer is much heavier than the hammer, and should be handled more carefully. For small, weak strikes it is more convenient to take the hammer closer to the metal part, as a result the weight of the hammer will be evenly distributed in the hand and this will improve its weight distribution. When delivering powerful, strong blows, the sledgehammer is taken closer to the free end of the handle, and the blows are delivered while giving the sledgehammer maximum acceleration until the moment of impact. It is better to work with such a heavy device in mittens with two hands, they will smooth out a little the force of recoil at the shoulder swing of great amplitude.
Often the hole size of the hammer heads is slightly wider at the top and bottom inlets than in the middle. So the dimensions of the handle blank in the thin end part should match the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the hammer head of the tool. It is obligatory to check if the hole for the handle is well made on the striker with the tool. You can see how it is done in the photo.
This shows the side of an old hammer that needs to be pretreated. Without this work it is not possible to make the head of the handle. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the casting of the striker was made rather poorly, there are big metal ridges and irregularities, each entrance to the holes on the both sides is 6-8 mm different than in the striker centre.
Grinding and hardening an axe
Like any other tool, the axe needs periodic care and maintenance. Over time, the blade becomes dull over the course of normal daily work, and productivity suffers. In this case it should be sharpened.
To perform this procedure properly, it is necessary to know how to sharpen the axe correctly. The general principle is almost no different from sharpening ordinary knives with a sharpening machine, but you need to adhere to the rule of forming a burr.
To avoid too frequent sharpening, the steel must be as strong as possible, and to do this, it must be hardened. At home, the procedure is carried out with a gas burner and used engine oil. The blade is red-hot and immersed in waste, then cooled completely in water. Repeat the procedure several times.
List of possible malfunctions
If your plastic balcony door does not close properly or does not open, you need to consider what may have caused it.
A worn or damaged seal is a common cause of problems with plastic balcony doors.
- broken hardware;
- warping
- Damaged double-glazed unit;
- Worn out seal;
- Sagging of the hinges under the weight of the sash;
- The shape of the sash changes (can occur due to temperature).
Let us distinguish the main signs of malfunctions:
- The handle is caught in the middle of the frame. This means horizontal displacement or warping of the sash. The cause of this phenomenon can be sagging of hinges or temperature deformation.
- Damaged handle and lock: in this case, you need to replace the broken parts.
- Clamping mechanism malfunctions. If this occurs, the balcony door cannot be fully closed even when turning the handle, and a gap is formed between the sash and frame. In this case the pressure must be increased and the door tightened.
- An indication that the sash has sagged under its own weight can manifest itself in this way. To close tightly, the sash must be held up by the handle with great force, as the bottom of the balcony door began to touch the threshold.
Floor radiators: types and selection advice
In some cases, the adjustment of the clamping mechanism will help to repair.
What breakages will require the hands of a craftsman
Situations where the elimination of defects by own efforts is impossible or extremely difficult include:
- Damage to the integrity of welded joints in the frame or sash;
- Breakage of the bottom hinge or tear of both hinges of the sash;
- Cracked insulating glass unit. this will entail the compulsory replacement of glass in the balcony door, and it is not possible to ensure hermetic sealing of the insulating glass unit at home;
- Complete failure of the hardware.
The solution to repair the balcony door at the above faults is to call a specialist, which will provide a complete replacement of the damaged glass pane, or other elements of the mechanism. Variants are possible when it is necessary to completely replace the balcony door. However, many of the problems encountered with difficulties in controlling the operation of the doors, also with the violation of their performance or appearance may well be solved by self-adjustment.
For this purpose it is enough to have a set of Allen keys, Phillips and flat screwdriver, pliers and, of course, elements of fittings, which you expect to replace (handle, lock, etc.).д.).