How to combine a regular drill bit with a rotary hammer
To ensure safe working conditions and effective use of the tool it is necessary to observe a number of rules while working with the torch:
Always wear personal protective equipment for eyes, ears, hands and feet; inspect the tool before each start of work; when drilling long holes, start with short bits and drill gradually; long continuous work leads to overheating of the gearbox and the armature winding. In this case the lever must be allowed to cool down. Allowable operation time with no load and load are indicated in the tool passport or in the user manual; follow the lubrication schedule for drill shanks. Do this with lithol or solidol every 150 to 200 drills performed. Some sources recommend lubricating the core bit shank every time it is inserted in the chuck; maintaining the tool in time. The scope of maintenance work and its intervals are specified in the instrument certificate; if hard materials are handled, it is necessary to use liquid cooling of the bore; in intensive work, periodically cool the auger. The metal of the working tool (auger) changes its mechanical properties (hardness, elasticity) irreversibly in the course of overheating. If the drill is not cooled down in time, it will become unsuitable for further work. There is no time limit for the drill. it depends on the effort applied to the torch, the material being drilled, the intensity of the drilling, etc. It is extremely dangerous to determine the temperature of the drill by hand
It is better to pay attention to the heat radiating from the housing of the torch. overheated drill bits often change color to a darker shade, sometimes with a blue tint.
For extended periods of drilling in very hard materials and in order to prevent the drill from overheating, a forced liquid cooling system should be used. This system is realized by feeding a cooling emulsion or normal water into the drilling area. This is done with thin pipes or special water couplings.
In order not to complicate the work, it is enough to cool the drill in a prepared container with water at regular intervals. These intervals are determined by experimenting with the temperature at which the drill is heated
It is important not to overheat the drill. Do not bring it to a condition where it changes color
When the lights may blink?
If the drill is equipped with warning lights, their signal can indicate breakage or malfunction of any unit or mechanism. If a red light on the torch blinks, please consult the operator’s manual.
How to disassemble and replace a chuck in a drill
Breakdown of a chuck is rare, but always inopportune. It’s a good thing that the malfunction of this unit can easily be repaired by your own efforts. But to do this, you need to know its design.
The chuck
All electric torches are equipped with simple and reliable SDS chucks. Their prototype was designed by engineers of West German company Bosch. Therefore the abbreviation in the name is derived from the German words: Steck, Dreh, Sitzt. Which in this case stands for “insert“, “twist”, “sit”. There are currently 5 versions of this design:
- SDS. For bits with Ø 10 mm shank that has two slots to prevent twisting. Shank insertion depth: 40 mm. This design perfectly combines with tools having SDS-plus shanks.
- SDS-plus. Leading tool in terms of frequency of use among chucks for rotary tools. Designed for bits with Ø 10 mm shank with four slots (two long anti-rotation slots and two short anti-loss slots). Insertion depth. 40 mm. This type is used on lightweight peorators. It can be used with tools Ø 4-32 mm, lengths from 11 cm to 1 m.
- SDS-top. Rarely encountered. Fitted on medium-sized rotary hammers. The shank for it has a shank Ø 14 mm, equipped with two long and two short grooves. Depth of alignment 70 mm, with a maximum auger diameter of 32 mm.
- SDS-max. Only slightly less common than the leader on rotary drills. Designed for drills with a diameter larger than 2 cm. Used mainly with heavy peorators. Its shank Ø 18 mm is inserted through 9 cm and has three long and two short grooves.
- SDS-quick. This type is designed for a hexagonal quarter-inch shank instead of a slotted shank. It can even hold drills and bits. Prior to 2009. Including the one exclusively for Bosch Uneo. Augers are not made thicker than 1 cm.
- SDS-hex. Only spades and chisels have shanks for earthmoving work. They only fit jackhammers.
The drill chuck design and the electric drill chuck have nothing in common with each other. The drill chuck clamps the drill with its movable jaws. The auger is secured against turning in the peorator by means of guide rails in the slots in the shank. It is prevented from falling out by the latch made of spring-loaded balls. To fix it in place, slide the drill shank into the hole in the chuck. Push the nozzle and push it in until it clicks into place. To remove the drill bit, it is necessary to pull the plastic skirt towards you.
Chuck Replacement
- Remove the rubber tip from the end.
- Use a screwdriver to pry out the first retaining ring.
- Pull the plastic sleeve cover downwards (as for changing the drill).
- Remove the second circlip in the same way as the first.
- Remove the coupling guard.
- Remove spring, retaining plates, and balls.
- If you can do without replacing the entire unit, then put the steel parts in a suitable container and fill with kerosene.
The chuck is usually fastened to the spindle with a thread. Clamp the chuck using a vice or a torque wrench. Use a spanner wrench to turn the spindle. If there are no faces, disassemble the rotary body, fix the spindle and rotate the chuck.
Carefully. Do not put drill head in kerosene
Because its rubber is not oil-resistant, it cannot withstand prolonged contact with it.
Reassemble the assembly in reverse order.
Drill does not engage
There are several possible causes of the chuck not holding the drill shank. Listed below are some of the most possible causes.
- Body, retainer plates or balls worn out.
- Release or breakage of the retainer spring.
- Dried-out or thickened grease from dirt that prevents the retainer balls from moving.
Important. Do not grease parts with petroleum jelly when reassembling
It is only used during maintenance. The grease that is best suited is lithol.
Repair or replacement
If you don’t have the parts, chuck repair will be easy in only two cases:
- When the balls are worn out.
- And when the grease, having lost plasticity, prevents the movement of parts. In other cases, it is easier to replace the assembly than to repair it.
Material and types of drills and core bits
The basic material for drill bits is various kinds of steel:
To work with the toughest surfaces. metals, hard stone. the drill tip is additionally equipped with diamond tipped tips. According to the type of construction, drills are divided into:
The color of the bit will tell you a lot about the drill bit:
- Black. The drill was pre-treated with superheated steam. Contrary to the well-known claim that black augers are stronger than all others, they are not. Here the color does not affect the strength.
- Brown. Such a drill bit was pre-tempered to remove internal stresses.
- Golden, bright gold. The tip of such color drill bits has a titanium nitride coating. It adds durability to the drill bit, but so does the cost.
Functionality check
Before inserting and securing the drill bit in the perorator, you must make sure that it works. To do this, plug the tool in, put it in drilling mode without impact, and then press the start button. If there are no extraneous sounds, uncharacteristic odors, then the unit is ready to work, and you can start installing the drilling nozzle.
Important! For Bosch model peorators, the drill bit is installed only with the plug unplugged.
Special features:
The perforator can make a hole in virtually any material. This device is mostly used when working with concrete, brick and metal, less often with wood.
The abundance of materials implies several working modes and a great deal of suspension equipment:
Drill nozzles are designed for drilling through tough materials. In this case, the tool does not only drill, but also shocks or vibrations. Drills make cautious holes of suitable depth and cross section in surfaces. Core bits are used for drilling huge holes. Under the socket, for example. When a chisel or blade is installed, the tool is assumed to work like a jackhammer.
A significant difference is the type of nozzle, which is suitable for all attachments other than drills, only for peorator, because it has a planting shank, fasteners in the form of grooves for this tool.
But it is also possible to correct an ordinary drill from a peorator. It requires an adapter called a detachable chuck. There are two types of this device:
The name of the type defines the type of clamping mechanism of the drill. The cam clamp is driven by a special wrench, which is inserted into the threads on the outer perimeter and turned. The collet mechanism inside the chuck compresses or expands depending on the direction of movement of the wrench.
The rapid-clamping type is actuated by a small amount of hand pressure. Pressing the chuck down opens the drilled hole.
How the tool works
How long the tool lasts depends on following all the rules of operation. When working with a material such as concrete, you should not save on tool lubrication. If the tool fails, it should be returned to the service center. Even if it is not damaged, at times it is worth handing over to the masters for inspection.
Be aware that some malfunctions provoke injuries, especially with massive rotators with a strong impact. If the drill in the pen is very jammed or you are not fully convinced of their own strength is also better to seek help from qualified professionals.!
A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove construction dust from the tool. When using the tool is worth keeping in mind the rest mode, the device tends to warm up even at low speeds. Follow the instructions enclosed with the device.
READ How to Disassemble a Makita 12 Volt Electric Screwdriver
Taking into account all the aforementioned, we can draw certain conclusions that independent installation of the drill in the pen. very common procedure. Also remember that by law the peorator can be used only from 7 a.m. to eleven p.m. Try to do repairs on weekdays from 9 am and finish them before 7 pm.
With the advent of reinforced concrete structures, no interior or exterior repairs can do without a perforator. There are a huge number of such devices on the market. But the main mechanisms work about the same. This statement is correct first for the process of resetting the drill.
Protective equipment
Always remember about the protective equipment when working with a peorator. These include goggles, earplugs, and gloves. You should also work in a special clothes, avoiding everything that can accidentally wrap around the drill or drill. When working with the device do not push it, it may end badly.
Try not to idle the tool for very long periods, this is only allowed before testing. When working with porous material, use hammerless drilling to prevent oversleeping. If you work with hard material, it is better to use coolant. If the work involves the introduction of a long drill bit, you can start with a shorter twist drill bit to save energy, but with the same cross section.
Lubricate drill shanks every 180 to 200 holes. Pay attention to the heat of the tool, it is better to take a break if it is very hot. Mix up the periods of work and rest. Usually take a break every 30 minutes. Its duration is about 10 minutes.
Peorator equipment
You will need different tools for working with this equipment. drills, concrete drills for peorator, chisels, blades and core bits. Drills and core bits are used for drilling holes, drills. Concrete and stone, chisels. for chisel, blade. For knocking down plaster or old tiles. All lever chisels have a shank, so it can be quickly and securely fastened into the chuck.
Peorator can be also used with special angle nozzles, dust removal system, mixer for mixing mixtures or paints, chisels and different attachments (drill bits for sharpening, water pump, nozzle for cutting metal in sheets). Before you start working with the chisel, make sure it is properly equipped and suitable for the work to be done. A very small tool may not be able to withstand a heavy load.
Chuck purchase
You need to buy the right chuck for your torch. If you can not choose or do not understand what cartridge is needed, it is ideal to take the tool with you and check the compatibility on the spot.
Now there are 2 types of chucks for the peorator. Keyless and keyless chuck. Main option. The electronic hammer drill, in which a special key is used to clamp the wood drill bit for the rotary hammer drill. In this case, it is a solid but less comfortable chuck than the quick-action chuck. The keyless chuck simply takes over the drill without any tools. Just choose the one that’s best for you and follow the upcoming instructions.
What is a peorator?
Before installing a drill in a peorator, it’s a good idea to first understand. Now it is difficult to complete a repair or construction without using a torch. When you need to drill, this tool is indispensable. Impact drill is used when working with concrete and brick, is also often used to work on metal or wood as an ordinary drill.
Many functions make this tool versatile. Rotation with impact, impact without rotation, rotation without impact, drilling in concrete, jackhammer function, drilling in wood and metal, and many others. You should know that there are many types of rotary tools. The principle of use of the tool is the same, but if you need to drill a large and deep hole, it is better to use a bigger and more powerful tool.
Drill chuck
The vast majority of household tools contain a cam-type chuck. These components are made as a cylindrical body on the surface of which the adjusting ring (sleeve) moves. Inside the cylinder there are cams, which due to their tapered surface approach each other when rotating the ring clockwise and recede when rotating it counterclockwise.
A shank is inserted in the gap between the jaws. Clamping jaws fasten the tool in the chuck. This chuck design allows different diameters of work pieces with cylindrical shank to be clamped. Jaws for domestic drills are available with a standard range of drill bits clamped from 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
Drill chucks for domestic power tools are available in two different types of power tools. normal power tools (key-operated or toothed) and speed clamp power tools. In conventional chucks the movement of the adjusting ring is ensured by a gear drive with a special key. The quick-action chuck uses a metal sleeve with a knurled surface to set the jaw motion. The rotation of the sleeve is carried out manually. Quick-clamping instances can be designed with locking or clamping elements to limit the tightening force. In these cases the end of the chucking of the cutting element is blocked by a click or by activation of a locking pin (button).
Chucks can also be 1- or 2-joint. In the first case, the rotation of the adjusting sleeve is relative to the body of the drill and you only need to fix it. In the second case, the sleeve moves relative to the second sleeve (ring), which in turn can rotate relative to the housing, requiring the second sleeve to be fixed by hand as the sleeve rotates.
How to insert the drill bit
Drill bit lubricant
In order for this process to go smoothly, it is important to follow some sequential steps:
- Be sure the drill is unplugged before you insert the drill bit into the chuck.
- Then insert the drill bit into the chuck. To do this, first make sure that the drill bit you are using is designed for the specific tool.
- To reduce chuck wear, you can grease the drill bit with a special lubricant. It can be put in the drill bit hole of the chuck.
- Then re-fix the drill bit.
- Once you have inserted the drill bit into the chuck, it is important to make sure it does not wobble.
Do not touch any of the rotating elements of the drill or rotary drilling device while drilling. As you can see, the installation of the drill is not particularly problematic.
It all depends on the chuck you are using. But what if you can’t get it out of the chuck after using it??
What to do if the drill bit jams
Drill bit jammed
Usually removing the drill bit from the chuck should not be too difficult. In a keyhole chuck, for example, just turn the key counterclockwise. This is also very simple with a quick-action chuck. To do this, turn the socket counterclockwise. Drill bits are removed from other types of chucks in the same way. But what to do if the drill bit is firmly seated in the chuck? This is most often a problem with quick-action chucks. Extra effort is required to remove the drill bit.
For example, you can hold the drill in your left hand and lightly hit the bottom of the chuck with the palm of your hand. It is usually easy to remove the drill bit after doing this.
If the chuck is metal, you can also lightly tap the chuck with a hammer. It is necessary to tap until the tail appears out of the chuck. If this does not work, you can use a gas wrench.
If none of these manipulations help you, you will have to remove the chuck from the drill/turn and disassemble it.
There are also other cases when the drill bit gets stuck in the wall. In this case, the drill bit is twisted in the chuck. To remove it, you will need to unclamp the chuck and remove the drill from the wall.
So, as we have considered with you all the possible situations that may arise in the work with the torch and drill when changing the drill.
How to remove a drill bit that is stuck in a wall
To pull the drill out of the wall, there is reverse. turning the chuck back or putting it into impact mode. As an option. pulling out with pliers, pipe or gas wrench, light knocking on the shank with a hammer from different sides to loosen.
The saw can also be used to chip concrete or brick around a jammed drill bit. As a last resort, the nozzle is cut off flush with an angle grinder.
The drill stuck in the wall: how to pull it out?
In some cases, the drill can be permanently stuck in a wall or any other surface of the structure of reinforced concrete. In most cases such an unpleasant thing happens when the hole is drilled at a slight angle of 6 centimeters. There are several ways to remove the tool.
Instructions
The first thing to do is to check whether the torch has the function of reverse rotation. If there is one, you need to turn it on and, swinging the tool from side to side, pull it out of the wall.
In addition, you can arm yourself with a drill and make another hole not far from the existing one, and by loosening the drill, extract it from the structure.
If the actions described above do not help, you will have to use a gas wrench. If it is too big, you can use a steel plate as a spacer. The key should be screwed on the drill and hit its handle with a hammer from the wall. These movements are not the most comfortable, but the method is quite effective.
To extract the drill, you can also use a reverse hammer, which is easy to find in any auto repair shop. If this tool is not available, you can connect the peorator to the SDS-connector of the nozzle and pull it away from the surface to be treated. This method is effective when the drill is stuck to a depth of no more than 10 centimeters.
If the drill is stuck in the wall while drilling through, and there is not much left to be done, you can break through the stuck tool with sledgehammers. It is necessary to hit in the direction of drilling. It is important to remember that you must not strike the bit itself. you must use a board or any other pad to soften the impact on the drill.
To avoid these problems, it is sufficient to take the core bit out of the drilled hole and clean it from dust, concrete chips and other contaminants as often as possible. In addition, the drill bit or other nozzle can jam in the surface if too much pressure is applied to it, so the tool must be held lightly. If the construction is reinforced concrete, i.e., it has a metal reinforcement, there is a risk that the drill will get stuck in it. Therefore, before beginning these works, you should check the location of these metal elements with a special device.
In some cases it happens that the drill is jammed. Usually it is caused by using a cheap, low quality tool. In such products, the fasteners cannot withstand the load and become deformed. In some cases, it is sufficient to clamp the tool in a vise and try to unscrew it. In the most complicated cases, it will be necessary to dismantle the cartridge. To do this, the first thing to do is to dismantle the upper rubber product, as well as the retaining ring that is located under it.
Ways that can help pull the drill out
It is possible to get stuck drill bit by clamping the drill in a vice and pulling out the drill bit by loosening it.
The design of the chuck implies movement of the drilling (drilling) equipment along the bore. When the riveting (increase in diameter of the opposite side of the drill) occurs, the barrel does not allow the drill to come out freely. This is the most common cause of the problem. You can try to extract the tool in the following ways:
- Clamp the jammed drill bit in a vise on the workbench, and then pull the tool from side to side while wiggling it.
- Clamp the drill directly in a large bench vice so as not to damage the housing (rubber pads can be used). Then the drill is clamped using a number 1 gas wrench or a small vice and a copper hammer is hammered into it. The direction of impact should be in the same direction as the tool comes out of the chuck.
Penetrating liquids can be used in both methods. In rare cases, the cause of jamming is operation without lubrication and a blockage. Fixation ball, if it got under it scale or hard stones may not release the drill. To prevent this from happening, you must always lubricate the drill shank in the future.
If the drill bit stuck as a result of rotation in the chuck itself, it is necessary to dismantle the chuck components by removing the rubber cap and the retaining ring. or try to turn the drill bit back by 90° (the direction of the turn can be seen from the notches on the drill bit and chuck jaws). Turning the drill bit, as a rule, leads to the following replacement of parts of the clamping device.
It should be taken into account that with low-quality tools a strong deformation of the shank occurs during long-term work, therefore, the proposed methods do not release the drill bit.
In this case you need to disassemble the machine completely, and then you need to knock out the jammed drill bit with the hammer. Such an operation would require replacing the tool barrel. The disassembly scheme of many devices is individual, so it is desirable to find an assembly drawing of all units. Nevertheless, without locksmithing skills, you should not disassemble and repair the barrel assembly. In this case it is better to apply to a workshop.
It is possible to pull out the drill by the suggested methods after the first 2-3 strokes of adequate force. If there is no visible movement, the subsequent attempts to knock out the auger may result in damage of the auger itself.
Replacing Cutting Tools
The “tail” of the electric screwdriver drill bit is secured in the chuck. The auger comes in different sizes as well as nozzles. If the cutting tool is installed incorrectly, the electric screwdriver can cause damage to the work process and harm to health. For example, because of the “wrong” drill you may get the holes of different sizes with damaged surface. A sharp element would cause serious personal injury if it were to “fly out” of the chuck.
Most modern screwdrivers have cam chucks. They consist of a cylindrical body, as well as a sleeve and cams. When the sleeve rotates clockwise the jaws simultaneously press the drill bit against the drill bit;. When the drill bit is rotated clockwise the jaws simultaneously press the drill bit against the drill bit.
The process of changing it is not complicated, but has a number of individual peculiarities. The whole process can be described as follows:
- it is necessary to pick up the necessary nozzle (bit) for the drill bit;
- then it is necessary to take the cutting tool and install it in the center of the chuck (between the opened “cams”);
- After that it should be fastened by turning the sleeve clockwise (with a key-type chuck the key is put in the recess);
- twist the sleeve until the nozzle locks into place.
It is not difficult to change drill bits, but first you have to pull out the previous one. There are the following variants of the situation:
- standard removal of the drill bit (the chuck has no damage);
- pulling out the drill bit in the absence of a wrench;
- Removing a jammed cutting element.
If the electric screwdriver works properly, there should be no problems when replacing its working tool. the operation is elementary. To do this, take the wrench that is designed to loosen the cartridge and insert it into the recess. Turn counterclockwise. The drill is unscrewed by means of the special prongs that are available on the objects. There is also another way to remove the drill. Then switch the electric screwdriver into reverse, hold the outer chuck shell and press the “start” button. The drill bit is then easily released.
In the absence of a special wrench, the drill can be extracted with a Phillips screwdriver or a nail. Insert it into the recess in the chuck and fix in half of it. Twist the opposite side of the chuck by hand. But if such unscrewing does not help, use a torque wrench or a vice. these tools help to rotate the chuck more easily. If the previous options for pulling out the drill have failed, then you should resort to “heavy artillery”. In some cases, it is difficult to extract the drill bit due to its external damage. In the present situation, it is necessary to loosen the “cams” with a gas wrench and a vise. Completely clamp the chuck with wrenches and make rotation (unscrewing).
A radical option in the most hopeless situation would be to twist the chuck with an electric screwdriver. To do this, squeeze it in a vise and forcefully dislodge the cutting tool from the inside with a punch. Naturally, after such a procedure, the electric screwdriver should be taken to the repair shop. To summarize, it is worth noting that the procedure for inserting the drill bit into an electric screwdriver is quite simple and even those who have never done it will be able to cope with it. The main thing in this process is to follow the recommendations.
Tips for avoiding this type of incident
In most cases, the use of drills that are made by reputable manufacturers is an ironclad guarantee that the tool will not get stuck in the peorator. Unfortunately, the modern market is flooded with low-quality products, so you should check the purchased goods immediately. To do this, you should simply make several holes in the concrete product.
If, after these operations, the drill can pass through the shank without excessive effort, then the tool is really of high quality. If deformation has begun, then at this stage the product will simply be removed from the clamping mechanism. it is important not to miss the beginning of these changes to avoid serious jamming of the auger in the peorator.
Such a mishap may also occur because of the decision to use quite powerful equipment for hard objects, but leave the drills as usual. Even the highest quality products that are not designed to handle any material will quickly fail and become deformed. That’s why you have to use special bits for each kind of material.
It is important to remember that it is not always possible to remove the head from the torch by yourself. You just can’t do without a visit to a service center, which will result in a loss of warranty. The fact is that the use of low-quality or unsuitable equipment is a user error.
Possible chuck problems and what to do about them
During work, the operator may encounter some difficulties, which should be corrected at once, so that more serious problems do not arise. To be able to repair your own rotary tool (e.g. Hammer brand) you must be familiar with external signs of a problem.
The most common problem is that the auger does not fit properly and comes out of its seat while working. It usually happens if you use the tool for a long time.
The only reason for this kind of failure is chuck wear. To fix the problem, it must be disassembled. In most cases, the balls that are installed inside are subjected to deformation, there is wear and tear on them. There may also be a problem with the retaining spring, which has sagged considerably.
Important! It is not possible to repair these assemblies, so they must be replaced and the cartridge must be reinstalled.
Sometimes the cartridge is not secured to the appliance itself. In this case it is necessary to check the cartridge case fixing, which is most likely worn out due to long hours of operation. The assembly is located at the end of the bushing and is a retaining ring. If it fails, the fixing is defective and the ring will be thrown from the sleeve if it is jolted.
To remedy the failure it is necessary to replace the circlip. This is done as quickly as possible and there is no need to use additional tools. All the handyman needs is a regular flat-blade screwdriver.