How to Lubricate Punch Tool Accessories

This operation is extremely simple, because its description will be quite short.

Just take the lubricant and add it directly to the cartridge. Another option involves applying it to the shank with the next installation of it in the socket of the cartridge. But no one forbids to cooperate these two methods for reliability.

It is necessary to watch that the grease is present all the time and add fresh as necessary. If we neglect the procedure given to us, the liner will overheat, which will lead either to its detachment from the rest of the drill, or to flattening. Therefore, do not be lazy and add.

That’s all you need to know by cartridge and liner.

As promised, I enclose at the end of the video link with the switch disconnected:

This is all the information that I have on the lubrication of the punch.

I hope it was clear and accessible. I say goodbye to this. see you soon!

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In order for the equipment and the main components of the punch to serve as long as possible, they need to be lubricated with the proper compounds.

The article is for informational purposes only.

The best lubricant for drill drills

Arsenal AR-401 (100 g) PATRIOT

In second place rating is a product from the South American brand Patriot. The product stands out at a good price. Suitable for lubricating all drills with a rotation speed of 1000-4000 rpm.

How to Lubricate Punch Tool Accessories

The capacity of the tube is 100 g.

Arsenal AR-401 (100 g) PATRIOT

  • Relatively low cost.
  • You need to squeeze out quite a bit.
  • Convenient packaging for use.
  • Good dust retention.
  • Not a soiled body.
  • There is a hole for hanging.

Arsenal AR-401 (100 g) PATRIOT

  • Sometimes splashes from the cartridge onto the wall.
  • When heated, it becomes very fluid.
  • The cap of the tube does not have a relief. it is difficult to unscrew in working gloves.

Conclusion. This product is notable for its economical consumption.

Makita 196804-7

Lubricant from a Japanese brand, designed only for application on the shank and inside of the cartridge. Available in a white and red tube with the brand logo and index.

95 g is placed in the container, which is enough from a month to a year, depending on the frequency of use of the punch. The soft walls of the tube simplify extrusion of the composition and application to the snap.

  • Not stratified even during long-term storage.
  • During heating, not converted to wax.
  • Concrete is produced in Japan.
  • Convenient packaging for extrusion.
  • The tube is simply placed in a suitcase for transportation.
  • There is a loop for hanging in a garage or at another workplace.
  • The cost is relatively high.
  • The white bottle quickly gets dirty.
  • The composition does not indicate the composition. it is difficult to find a similar one, but cheaper.

Conclusion. This is one of the highest quality heavy duty punch lubricants.

The reviews of the masters demonstrate that with it the equipment does not jam even with everyday wall chiselling for 6 hours. At the same time, only one chisel is operated all the time. If you really want to protect the cartridge and accessories, then buy a product from Makita for the drill.

Bison ZSB-125

Third place in the rating for domestic lubrication from the Bison. Its composition has a semi-synthetic base. The manufacturer added special additives to increase the positive characteristics of the substance with extreme burdens. The tool is suitable for drills, chisels, crowns. It can be loaded into the "light" SDS cartridges and the most "heavy" SDS-Max.

The grease is water resistant and does not form an emulsion. The tool firmly protects the iron components of the hammer from abrasion and corrosion.

  • Relatively low cost.
  • Tube capacity. 125 g.
  • Large inscription "For Boers", so as not to confuse when servicing the gearbox.
  • Eyelet for hanging grease on a hook in a garage.
  • For SDS drills, a fairly narrow layer.
  • When developing the composition, nano-technologies were involved.
  • It is difficult to unscrew the cap with sweaty hands.
  • Quickly becomes liquid.
  • Flies to the wall from the cartridge.
  • It is difficult to rub off the wallpaper.

Conclusion. This grease has a wide temperature spectrum.

It does not thicken much at a negative temperature of up to.50 degrees, and remains moderately fluid when it reaches 130 degrees. If you work as a hammer drill in the cold or in open space in the summer, this product will be the best.

Elitech 2006.000100

Completes this category is another domestic lubricant on a semi-synthetic base. It is available in a soft tube with a capacity of 60 g. The substance was created to reduce tool friction and protect against corrosion. The temperature spectrum allows you to use the product from 55 to 140 degrees.

  • No powerful spray when overheating.
  • Affordable price.
  • Not converted to oil.
  • There is a hole in the tube for suspension.
  • Suitable for all types of shanks and types of working equipment (chisel, chisel, crown, drill).
  • It gets very dark with prolonged drilling.
  • If stored for a long time in a warehouse or in a garage, it can dry out or exfoliate.
  • The tube capacity is less than other brands.

Conclusion. This lubricant best prevents alloy corrosion.

With it, your drills and cartridge elements will remain intact and free of rust. If you prefer to use expensive drills and crowns of Russian manufacturers, this grease is unsurpassed.

Lubricate the gearbox

You will need to disassemble the tool body. Follow the steps:

  • Disassemble the cartridge. To do this, first remove the rubber ring. Then pry off with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring. Further, the outer casing of the cartridge is carefully removed and then the clamping ring, ball and spring are removed.
  • Now disconnect the mode switch. This is done differently depending on the model.

At the end of the article, I gave a certain number of links to videos that tell how it is shot on one or another model. If in the middle of them there is no your aggregate, then you can look at least some similar in order to realize the principle. And then, I think, it will not be difficult for you to disconnect it from yourself.

  • Remove the collector from the brushes. To do this, unscrew the back cover of the case and remove the brushes.
  • Unscrew the self-tapping screws that longitudinally tighten the case, and disconnect it.
  • Remove the gearbox together with the motor armature.
  • Now carefully wash the gearbox itself, as well as the inside of its housing.

    Video: How to Lubricate Punch Tool Accessories

    Flushing can be performed, for example, with gasoline.

    After that, first the most critical parts are smeared. And then the entire gearbox is completely enveloped in grease.

    Well, it remains to collect everything in reverse order.

    How to lubricate a hammer drill

    Various types of greases are used to lubricate the gearbox and chuck with the drill.

    Gear lubricant

    A special lubricant is used here, which is what it must be called. gear.

    It can be like under the brands under which the perfs themselves are produced. Makita, Bosch, AEG, etc. But it can be released by a company that deals specifically with this type of product, for example, Ravenol, Shell, Xado, etc.

    For these purposes, some use regular lithol or salidol. But in comparison with special lubricating products, they more likely dry out, and they do not so relieve friction as they should.

    Drill Grease

    Everything is exactly the same here. Special lubricants for this purpose are called for us. for the Boers.

    And they are also traditionally produced by the same companies as perforators.

    For lack of special grease, graphite can be used.

    But it does not so well remove heat from the shank, and this is important, since from time to time during long-term operation the shank is flattened, which makes it difficult to remove it later.

    What parts of the hammer drill need to be lubricated

    According to the operating annotation, three zones must be lubricated in the hammer drill. This will extend the life of the device and equipment, and facilitate the operation of the tool. Let’s see what specifically needs lubrication and why.

    Working equipment

    Working equipment (drills and crowns), inserted into the cartridge, are under enormous strain.

    They receive from 1000 to 5000 beats per minute, transmitted to the hard one, so the tool simply passes through stone, concrete screed, brick and other obstacles.

    The instruction manual instructs to be sure to lubricate the shank of the drill before each use. If work with a hammer drill is carried out during the day, then the operator is required from time to time to remove the drill and inspect the presence of grease on the shank.

    Without lubrication, the assembly will quickly overheat and break, which will require not only the purchase of the latest equipment, but also cartridge repair.

    Lubricant for drill punch is applied to the grooves (two or 5, depending on the type), which are fixed with locking wedges. First you need to wipe the outer part with a napkin in order to remove the remnants of dust and dirt. The product is traditionally squeezed out of a tube.

    Enough 1 g for uniform application. When changing the drill, chisel and other equipment, every time you need to create lubrication. After removing the drill or other device, the end face must be wiped with a napkin so that it does not stain the suitcase and surrounding objects during storage.

    Proper lubrication of the drill punch.

    Lubricant for drills reduces friction in the fixing system and extends the life of the drill shank (if this section "converges", then even with the whole breakdown part with a winning nozzle, the inventory will not be suitable for work).

    Also, the lubricant for the punch protects against the ingress of dust, delaying it for yourself. Small particles of crushed wall and other debris do not fall into the instrument.

    Watch the video on punch drill lubrication:


    When buying the latest punch, its cartridge is dry. The user needs to lubricate the entry point of the snap-in, since here the greatest friction occurs. This action will protect the unit from excessive wear and dust penetration deep into.


    This unit is responsible for transmitting torque from the electric motor to the cartridge. Internal parts are subjected to increased friction when working at high speeds and high temperatures.

    Another mechanism is evenly clogged with debris, dust and dirt. To reduce wear, manufacturers provide it with a special coating, but this is not enough for daily work, therefore, after a long period of operation, it is necessary to disassemble the housing and apply grease to the gearbox. If you do not know how to do this, then the tool must be taken to the service, where the wizard will do this work.

    The gearbox can be of 2 types:

    1.With separate performance from the strike group. Here the reciprocating mechanism for striking is made separately. It consists of a crankshaft and piston group, creating a force transmitted to the cartridge.

    The system has its own lubrication. The gearbox is only responsible for the rotation of the snap.

    Separate rotary hammer reducer from shock group.

    2.With a single ratchet type implementation. In this case, the gearbox also includes the shock mechanism (“drunken bearing”). The grease for the gearbox of the hammer drill and the hammer assembly is public here and is applied by the operator according to the schedule, depending on the frequency of operation of the device.

    Gearbox coupled with a shock mechanism.

    The gearbox itself consists of 2 gears.

    They can have straight or oblique teeth. Extreme designed for high loads.

    There is a fresh type of gearboxes with a planetary gear including more than two gears. Thanks to this mechanism, the gear ratio can be changed. the rotor of the motor rotates quickly, and the cartridge slowly. This gives an overestimated power (rotation force) at a low number of revolutions. The equipment heats up less, but does not wedge, but confidently drills hard

    In the ratchet mechanism, not counting the friction of the gears against each other, longitudinal movement is also carried out.

    The small gear is armed with a movable mechanism that moves back and forth up to 2000-4000 times per minute. This whole mechanism should be quite lubricated, otherwise the knot will quickly wear out and loose.

    The shafts themselves are also installed in bearings, which can have their own lubrication (bearings of closed type) or common with the gearbox (bearings of open type). Without proper lubrication, the balls in them will be erased, which will lead to backlash and runout of the cartridge, as well as an increased volume during the operation of the punch.

    Watch the video on lubricating the punch gearbox:

    Varieties of tools and lubricant requirements for rotary hammers

    It is important to understand that the lubricant for the drill and gearbox is not the same thing!

    For example, at the manufacturer Makita, these substances have a completely different composition. Therefore, when choosing a lubricant, you must constantly pay attention to its purpose, otherwise you can spoil the tool.

    Lubricant for drill punchers

    Typically, a hammer drill is sold with a tube of drill lubricant. This is a proprietary thick tool designed specifically for use with this model of tool. In the future, when it is over, it is imperative to take the 1st brand lubricant. you can purchase products from other manufacturers marked “for boers”.

    However, the grease must be suitable for use on rotary hammers with certain features (power, number of revolutions and strokes), then it is reasonable that the characteristics of such a grease will be similar.

    Some lubricant manufacturers indicate

    If you use a hammer drill for many hours a day, then buy a special lubricant designed to work at the highest temperature.

    For imported tools, it is better to purchase lubricants imported from other countries.

    Lubricant for rotary hammer gearboxes

    Hammers are sold ready to use, because at first there is enough lubricant in the gearbox for the first time. But then it will need to be disassembled and re-lubricated.

    There are universally acceptable greases (nigrol, lithol, salidol, etc.) used to lubricate household appliances, rubbing parts of a car, electrical appliances. But for perforators (household and professional) it is better not to use them.

    This requires a special substance specifically designed for heavy work in terms of excessive heating (because the rotational speed of the rotor of the washing machine is much lower than that of a perforator). Close in composition is a means for refueling in the SHRUS car, but not everything is so smooth here.

    The gearbox has specific processes (sharp extrusion of lubricant upon impact with a frequency of 4000 per minute), which asks for unique parameters from the lubricant. Therefore, general thick greases are not applicable here. But getting only the grease of the same brand as the tool is not necessary.

    Here are the qualities that a lubricant composition for a perforator gearbox should have:

      Corrosion protection. The gear housing is made of aluminum and its alloys, as well as alloy steel.

    A plastic substance must contribute to protection against rust or plaque on both types of metals.

  • High adhesion. The tool must adhere so much to the details that, despite the load in the form of shock and the highest speed, it will retain a narrow film over the entire surface.
  • Delay and removal of garbage. Construction dust can get into the gear housing. High-quality grease collects abrasive particles for itself, binds them and displays them on the internal walls.
  • This prevents gears from settling inside.

  • Water resistance. After cooling, a reduced pressure appears in the gearbox, which helps to draw air inward. If its humidity is too high, it can condense on the surface of the mechanism. Lubrication is required to protect parts from water and not to form an emulsion during whipping.
  • High temperature drop formation. The gears are very hot from friction and when rotating at the highest speed, they discard the lubricant.
  • The thicker the composition and the longer its dilution to dropping, the more reliable the gearbox is protected.

  • Property recovery. After cyclic heating and cooling, the characteristics of the lubricant must be restored, otherwise it will finish doing its functions, despite a sufficient amount.