How to make a circular saw from a hand circular saw

We are building a circular saw from a manual circular saw

I needed a circular saw the other day. And it, quite accidentally, was not at hand. Give more than a tenner (the bare minimum for the Chinese) can not thrifty amphibian, but the need for it does not become less. There are, of course, jigsaws, jigsaws, but that’s not the solution, because we need some, no matter what, productivity and accuracy. Had to harness my ingenuity and industriousness.So, we have a manual circular saw, a decent piece of 15-y plywood, a piece of angle, various screws and bolts, a drill, and a manual (not wild) milling machine. Another three or four completely unoccupied hours. Which we are going to busy with handjobs (my gosh, my Android knows the word “handjobs”). Where would?). text than pictures.We have a weakly contoured scrap of plywood, which allows you to get a rectangle of 1000x700mm and 15mm thick. And, first of all, we get it, using a jigsaw.Then we cut a rectangular hole with a jigsaw to fit the circular saw into the plywood. And following the contour, with a router, we choose the recess, which will let the table of the circular saw to be flush with the plane of the “fanfair”. With tears falling down we make some holes in the table of the circular saw (and in the fanfare) with 5m drill bit. which will allow to fasten the circular on the sheet. Don’t forget to countersink the hole, so as to sink the head of screw into it completely (don’t be afraid, most likely the table of circular saw is from weak and very soft luminescence). Yes, it won’t hurt the circular saw (uh, I hope so).Thus, we have a circular saw fixed in a piece of plywood.

Thus we have a circular saw fixed in a piece of plywood.But we still need a stop to cut properly, not as we have to. Well, let’s take a piece of structural iron (or even a piece of wood, if you have it handy) and make a stop with it.Make cuts in the fan sheet with a drill and a jigsaw.

The desired machine tool is ready?Yeah! Screw the trigger of the circular saw with a wire and you can saw!Well, yeah! It’s creepy. Since you can switch off the finger slicer only by pulling the circular saw’s plug out of the socket.Not good! Fainting from the shock of my fingers flying off to the side, it’s not exactly comfortable to think of a socket. Otherwise, I’m lying on the floor, pouring my fluids all over it, and the circular saw continues to spin merrily. The switch should be easily and quickly accessible!Strange as it may seem, there is a switch, a socket and a meter of two-core wire.

It certainly is not ideal, in terms of functionality, and safety (what the hell), but, as a last resort, it will do.Yeah, I took a picture with an angle grinder.And also, please be careful with your fingers! The circular. the most cheerful tool in this regard (if not to count the angle grinder with circular saw blade). But that’s for heroes with a strong spirit!)))

Miniature machine from the engine from a washing machine with their own hands

And as for the motor from the washing machine, it is probably one of the best options for the motor to assemble the circular saw at home. Washing machine motors are notable for their long life and endurance. The small shaft speeds are fully compensated by the design. most washing machine motors have a keyway for the pulley, and the housing itself has convenient holes for mounting. To increase the speed of the saw blade you can install pulleys of different sizes on the motor and the working shaft or take an electric motor from the centrifuge of the same washing machine. By the way, it is possible to make a machine tool with direct transmission from a centrifuge motor, such motor usually has a long shaft, and a saw of small diameter can be mounted directly on it.\

make, circular, hand

But the main advantage of a washing machine motor is its power. It is designed for a long period of work, and for a circular saw it is the most important.

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How to make a stationary type circular saw with your own hands?

Motor for the circular saw must be powerful enough, it should not be made of a drill.

Virtually every manual BF can be made into a circular saw, which by its performance characteristics will be little inferior to a stationary machine. The simplest frame for this can be an old dining table, in the lid of which holes are drilled to fix the sole of the circular saw and a slot is made for the saw blade. The tabletop itself, a sheet of textolite or metal can serve as the working surface of a stationary unit. The main thing is that the table can withstand the load of the processed wooden workpieces, so the thickness of even the steel sole should not be less than 4 mm. The fasteners should not protrude above the working surface of the machine, and it is best to use countersunk-head screws to attach manual machines to the table top.

The table itself can become even more functional if, in addition to the circular saw, an electric planer is attached to it. Then on such an improvised machine you can not only saw boards, but also perform their planing, and if necessary, both the BF and the planer can be easily dismantled and converted back into a handy portable tool.

The design of such a machine-transformer is very simple. The lid is connected to one of the frame hinges. It can be lifted without hinges, which makes it easy to access the tool for maintenance or disassembly. Sockets for saw and planer are installed on the inner surface of the pedestal. Of course, the system of turning on and off the power tools requires some work, but here too there are no special difficulties, because the saw and planer start buttons can be fixed in the turned on state (the easiest solution to wrap the button and handle with electrical tape), and new switches for each tool to output on the outer surface of the table compartment. You can see on the photo how practical this design is.

Design features

Structurally the saw table looks pretty simple. The machine consists of a supporting frame for the motor, a transmission unit and a work table with a slot for the cutting disc. Equipped with stops to guide the workpiece and a protective screen that prevents chips from entering and enhances work safety.

Mandatory requirements to the sawing table:

  • Rigid, stable construction;
  • smooth surface of the table top;
  • safe mounting of the blade;
  • guarding that protects the operator of the machine (table);
  • Easy access to the control device (start and stop buttons).

The equipment must be installed on a frame, not resting on solid plates, but on feet. This increases the working comfort, although it makes the saw table less stable. The saw frame can be made of metal or reinforced with metal parts for improved durability. Safety is ensured not only by the protective screen, but also by fixing the disk on the bottom (inside) side. Additional requirements depend on the specifics of the work. auxiliary elements help to process parts more accurately, sawing longer boards, as well as thicker logs.

By making a saw table with your own hands, you can get a number of advantages. from cost reduction to the possibility of changing the design as required by the craftsman. If desired, you can replace some parts with more cost-effective, use materials left over from repair or construction. The only disadvantage of the circular saw, independently attached to the machine, is a decrease in the accuracy of positioning of workpieces. But this point still largely depends on the skill of the performer himself.

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Rigid, stable construction

Smooth surface of the tabletop

Safe attachment of the blade

Guarding that protects the operator of the machine (table)

It is advisable to begin the process by preparing everything you need. Stationary equipment is mounted on a sturdy and stable table. To make it, you will need a sheet of sanded plywood of the required size with a thickness of at least 20 mm. You can make the legs of the table from 4 bars connected by wooden or metal crosspieces.

In addition, you will need a manual circular saw or angle grinder.

It is also necessary to stock up on the following tools and materials:

  • jigsaw;
  • Electric screwdriver;
  • 3-4 metal clamps;
  • self-tapping screws and screws;
  • 2 metal curtains of small size;
  • 2 clamping screws;
  • A sanded board, the length of which corresponds to the length of the table, and the height varies between 10-12 cm;
  • pencil, long ruler.

All this can be found in a workshop or bought cheaply at any hardware store.

Homemade circular saw

The circular saw is a specialized equipment, which is used for sawing wood, laminate, some varieties of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair works and carpentry operations, the availability of a stationary type sawing unit can significantly reduce the time and increase the quality of the result. If it is not possible to buy a factory-made model, you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more materials and parts you have, the cheaper the project will be.

About choosing a saw model

Usually recommendations concerning the choice of electric tool model are limited to comparison of power, functionality and similar characteristics

We will not repeat these, in general, correct advices, but we will draw our readers’ attention to the most important

That is why it is strongly advised to define more precisely at first for what purposes and for what works you buy the tool and only then choose a concrete model.

A circular saw is mostly used in “manual mode”, which means that the sawmaker holds it in his hands and moves it along the workpiece being sawed. For comfortable and non-tiring work the saw has to weigh as little as possible and fit comfortably in your hand.

For a coping saw, which is supposed to be used in the carpentry workshop, the recommendation will be just the opposite: choose a saw of the largest possible size. It is preferable to buy a saw with a broaching mechanism that allows you to cut workpieces of considerable width and diameter.

Circular saw with their own hands: how to assemble a functional device correctly

The designs of homemade sawing tables for manual circular saws are numerous, but most of them are the fruit of creative search and/or self-expression. However, quite workable. However, the optimal options for those who need not make and show, but to work on it, are viewed clearly enough.

This is the tilting saw table for the hand-held circular saw (left in fig.). tabletop. 12 mm laminated plywood; 400 mm high side boards. furniture board Laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. It is undesirable to make the planks into side frames, as the table will not have the required stiffness. Tabletop overhangs. 30-60 mm.

Construction of sawing table for handheld circular saw

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The table top design of the circular saw table is shown on the right in Fig. Through grooves for saw blade exit (one groove is possible) are cut 6-10 mm wide. No particular precision required, t.к. stop (see pic. below) is set up for sawing along the saw blade. Tabletop dimensions can be changed arbitrarily (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Locking in working position (assembly C in fig.). screws M8 with wing nuts. Rotation assembly (pos. B). a piece of pipe (can be plastic). Its attachment to the table top. can be done with countersunk screws through the through holes.

How To Make A Homemade Table Saw With Circular Saw

Instead of hinges. L-shaped pieces of bar D8; a little play in the tube does not affect the quality of sawing. Each “hinge” is additionally bent in vertical plane under the angle 30-45 degrees. On the long sticks “G” threaded, and they are attached to the tsarga a pair of nuts with split washers. The mounting holes in the tsargah are best marked in place by inserting the “hinges” into the tube and laying the table top on the base.

Making a solid sliding stop for the workpiece, as in pos. 3b on the large fig. at the beginning, not necessarily. Its (stop) is better to make from a piece of steel corner from 40×40, having cut a vertical flange as shown here on fig. (rear view).

Design of a sliding stop made of steel angle for a homemade circular table

It is fastened to the table top with screw clamps, and to align its parallelism to the saw blade in any case is necessary; it is done by metal-square with millimeter grades.

Tool fastening

Mounting the hand circular in the sawing table in clamps

The circular saw is fastened to the table top with the disk upwards. If the tool is not under warranty and the loss of depth of cut is unessential, it is drilled 4 holes D8 in the shoe of the saw and it is fastened by through-headed countersunk screws. It is very desirable to put 1-2 mm rubber between the shoe and the table top (e.g. for the table top)., from the auto-camera), the cutting quality will improve noticeably by damping the vibration of the tool. If it’s necessary to minimize losses in depth of cut, a through cut-out is made in the table top for the tool shoe, the saw is fixed to the steel sheet of 3-6 mm thickness, and it is fixed in the rectangular dimple on the front (working) surface of the table top (see “Vitaly”). fig. on the left). But the hole will have to choose a hand router on wood, chisel exactly flush will not work.

If the tool is a warranty or rental tool, depth-of-cut losses are inevitable, t.к. It is not allowed to make a hole in the saw shoe. For such case a variant of the saw’s fastening in clamps is known (see fig. mark. Figure.). Not suitable for regular work in large quantities, but it can be done quickly and you can saw evenly for a day or two.

Mounting a handheld circular saw in a sawing table with minimal loss of cutting depth

folding in a suitcase for work on the field: