Circular saw from parquetry with their own hands
In my spare time from my main job I do carpentry, and, therefore, like the Chukcha, what I see and what I sing. And I didn’t start out by buying machines and starting work, but by accumulating tools, making things myself, buying, swapping, donating and so on.
I think the basic tool in carpentry is a circular saw. One way or another we start with cutting the material. There are dozens of ways to do it without a circular saw, but for me it is still the main tool. So if you really want to work, you have to have such a saw.
I started out with a simple cheap parquet board that was bolted to a sheet of Wood Chipboard. The parallel stop was a simple bar, which I fastened with clamps, but nevertheless it was already possible to work with it!
Now I want to tell you about a home-built plywood saw. I used it until the end of last year, when I bought a Bosch PTS10. And now it’s already pleasing its new owner. I have the opportunity to compare it with the Bosch, so the Bosch is not always better Made of “parquetry”, if you can call so a saw weighing more than 7 kilograms and a 2 kilowatt power.
It starts with the base of my saw. You don’t want 2 kilowatts of guts dropping down and chasing you across the floor, so the base has to be solid. Mine was made from an old pallet, later added two wheels for moving.
It is based on an older model from Interskol, with a smooth start, and a 2 kv motor. All superfluous is removed. The plywood construction on the left is designed to hold a stable angle of 90%. With such a weight of the motor the native design does not hold the angle.
View of engine from the other side. You can see the stiffener screwed to the table to prevent the table top from sagging.
A classic starter is used for safe starting, which means that if there is a loss and return of power, the saw will not turn on by itself. Safety first of all!
On the side, there’s a table extender that lets you saw about a meter from the parallel stop. The stop folds down on hinges if needed. On the table you can see the paralel stop, which is secured with clamps.
This is what my saw looks like with the table extender lowered. If you put the disk down, it turns into a nightstand. There are wheels on the back for moving around. Inside on the shelf are all sorts of useful things
The parallel stop is realized by means of two quick-clamping clamps, it is set along a ruler from the disk line, it is visible on the table. I wanted to cut in a fixed ruler, but I couldn’t go further than that.
Cross-cutting saw carriage with three rails.
As you can see, spending a little money you can get a good beginner’s tool. Of course I wouldn’t make moldings with it, but many projects are made with this saw. If you have a saw you can initially do without even a thicknesser. Everything is determined by the amount of additional attachments like slide rails with different angles, tenoning, stops, and so on.
It all looks ugly, but we’re talking about budget carpentry, aren’t we?? And it allows you to work here and now, and not after we buy a circular saw for 50 thousand dollars. I, for instance, am still sawing and sharpening my Frankenstein-Bosch on the photo in the header.
Universal sawing table for circular saw
So id215711128 has a powerful circular saw, which is over 20 years old. Saw’s cutting depth is 65 mm. During its operation it turned out that it is difficult to achieve quality wood sawing with it. The reasons: the disc angle and depth of cut are constantly getting out of sync with the settings. Saw blade is made of thin metal, as a result it bends, and the geometry is not maintained when cutting the workpiece.
First the user went the standard way. started to improve the saw. Made devices to keep cutting perpendicularity. Placed wedges to maintain cutting depths. He built the saw in the table, as it is, but feeble M4 threads on the legs of the circular saw loosened, and each new pass had to be re-adjusted. Despite the difficulty of sawing, id215711128 made 5 casing boxes. “Accident,” which gave rise to the construction of a multifunction sawing table, occurred when the craftsman was making the sidewalls for the door trim.
I sawed a two-meter beam. Already chose the quarters, cut the locks, the only thing left to choose the longitudinal groove, designed to fix the product on the wall. Made a few cuts with the saw and when the workpiece was almost finished, the circular saw lost its depth. I practically sawed a bar in half, completely ruining the part. That’s it, at this point I realized that I’ve had enough of this “dancing with tambourines”, and I need a normal sawing table.
First the user bought the plywood for the tabletop in a construction hypermarket. Then I developed the terms of reference, what requirements the table must meet. So:
- You need the maximum possible reach of the saw blade.
- Saw blade should have adjustable angle of tilt. 90-45 degrees and 0. max outreach with a reliable fixation of set parameters.
- The table must hold parts with a large cross section, so the dimensions of the table are 1.22 x 1 m.
- I need an adjustable and reliably fixed parallel stop, as well as adjustable horizontal and vertical hold-downs for parts to be cut.
- The table must be multifunctional, with the ability to further mount a router and electric jigsaw.
“universal joinery tools” we recommend to read articles: home-made workbench-mounting table and universal folding trestle.
Having defined the requirements, I wondered what to make the mechanism for raising and lowering the saw from. The choice fell on the automobile screwed rhombic jack.
But, going to the store for bolts, studs and nuts, the user forgot to buy it there. Т.к. I didn’t want to go back, so the homebuilder decided to replace the jack with a clamp, from which he cut off all unnecessary things and welded the necessary one.
Then it was time to upgrade the circular saw. The user removed the sole from it, the saw blade cover, t.к. it was in the way, and the disk protector. Dismantling of saw was made with the expectation that, if necessary, it can be reassembled. I put the saw on the hoist.
The saw is tilted by means of a homemade swivel mechanism made of studs and planks.
According to the homebuilder, because of the metric thread the handles have to be rotated a large number of revolutions, but with infrequent machine readjustments it is not critical.
The parallel stop is 1220 mm long. To prevent displacement of the far edge of the workpiece when sawing the stop has an additional stop.
Tests of the machine showed that everything works as it should. Inclination angles and cutting depths are not disrupted.
At this point the user took time out and thought about how to upgrade the machine for sawing large workpieces. It occurred to me to make a carriage, but it would “eat up” about 1 cm of the depth of cut. This can be critical, since the parallel stop has a length of 12″.к. the casing box parts are made of square timber and have the following dimensions 1.5-2 m, with a cross section of 10×20 cm. Besides, such a bar weighs a lot, and it’s inconvenient to push it on the table. Exit. the workpiece stands still and the saw moves itself.
I remembered that when I was sawing plywood in a construction hypermarket, they did it with a “crafty” machine, the saw blade of which went from top to bottom and from left to right. On reflection I decided to make a dolly with rollers and guides to move the saw on.
To make this fixture the user bought the rollers for the furniture cart and a corner 5×5 cm. At first he decided to put only the lower and horizontal rollers. But, t.к. Because of the application of force when moving the cart may get bias, the master has put on the cart additional rollers, which rest against the lower surface of the table top.
During the “running-in” of the table I had to adjust the alignment of the cutting direction and the direction of movement of the cart.
To do this, washers were put under the fasteners of the guide angles.
After adjusting the machine, the homebuilder tested it by sawing a 20×5 cm board.
Taking a simple circular saw as a base, I managed to make a sawing and trimming machine with the ability to cut both lengthwise and crosswise. It is possible to saw either by fixing the circular saw rigidly, moving the workpiece, or by moving the saw, with the workpiece clamped by clamps with adjusting the depth and tilt of the blade. I plan to modify the machine to make it even more functional and convenient. For this it is necessary to set it up:
simple self-made machine tools needed in any workshop
In this publication, I decided to make a selection of homemade machines that have already been on the channel. For each item will be a brief description and a link to a detailed, step by step publication.
Before we proceed to the review, I would like to warn you that self-made machines can be very dangerous if improperly designed, assembled or used. The decision to assemble any machine you make at your own risk. And of course do not forget about the safety precautions.
A simple circular saw from an ordinary drill
In this publication we will make a simple circular saw with a parallel stop from an ordinary drill. Of course this fake will not replace a real machine tool, but at first it should help a lot.
A very simple mini grinder
It often happens we need to process small products and workpieces, and there low-power and fragile equipment can be very, very useful. Well, let’s build a mini grinder for small workpieces.
Simple guide for hand held circular saw
Of course there are manual circular saws with guides in the kit, but they cost quite a lot, so let’s make a simple guide for an ordinary hand circular saw.
How to Cut Laminate Flooring Dust-Free with a Circular Saw
Making a hand router from an ordinary drill
Of course, you can’t call it a full-fledged machine tool, but in the end, instead of a cheap tool we will have the capabilities of an expensive one. Milling machine, just an indispensable tool, but a novice craftsman just may not have it. The way out is simple, you can make a hand router out of a simple drill with your own hands, and use it until you can buy a real one.
A simple sawing machine from a hand-held circular saw
With a couple of pieces of wood and aluminum angle bars you can make a very good machine, or rather a stiff guide rail for your circular saw. Such a device will greatly accelerate and facilitate the work with a circular saw.
You can use a jigsaw instead of a band saw, and you can make a pretty good sawing machine. As a result, we get an improvised circular saw from an electric jigsaw.
A simple drill press from an electric screwdriver
Very often, when making a variety of products, we need to make a hole strictly at a 90 degree angle. It is almost impossible to make such a hole “by eye”. For this case, you can easily adapt an electric screwdriver, just a couple of hours and we will be in the hands of a very good drill press.
Large drilling machine from a drill
To make a hole exactly at a 90 degree angle with an ordinary drill is not a simple thing. Homemade drilling machine will not only facilitate this task, but even expand the functionality of the drill. Let’s see how you can assemble a quality drill press.
Jigsaw band saw
If desired, an ordinary jigsaw can be successfully transformed into a band saw. If you are going to cut not very thick figures out of plywood or wood, this machine will have to taste.
Belt Grinding Machine from Drill
You often have to sand wood or other materials, and are tired of doing it by hand? An ordinary hand drill makes this process very easy!
The lathe is a very useful thing and will help to solve many problems. With a little effort from an ordinary hand drill you can get a pretty good lathe, which at least helps to last until the time when the workshop has a real.
A mitre cutter based on an angle grinder
An angle grinder is often used for the task at hand. It is ideal for making your own end facing machine for machining end surfaces. The homemade version of the performance will have the following specifications:
- disk speed of the angle grinder should not be less than 4500 rpm;
- Cutting length is 350 mm. It should be noted that this indicator is significantly higher than the factory tool, which belongs to the middle class.
Homemade Circular Sawmill, 52″ Blade Rips Through a Log
The design created makes it possible to remove the angle grinder from the table and use it as an ordinary tool.
When considering how to make a similar version of the performance, let us note the following points:
- The cutting tool is installed on the axle, which is represented by a car wheel. This point determines the possibility of facing at an angle. To fix the swivel mechanism uses a bearing with a diameter of 150 millimeters. To fix the angle grinder special mechanism is used, which is attached to the rotary axis. After a certain time, it is recommended to lubricate this axis, as there is a possibility of squeaking;
- To fix a defined angle in the production of the machine tool, special eyelets are welded on the outside of the bearing. The fixation is carried out by means of a screw, for example, M6. It is necessary to conduct the attachment of ears so that between them there was not a large distance. Otherwise, there is a possibility of a strong backlash, which will significantly reduce the accuracy of machining;
To make a circular saw from a drill is not difficult, but problems may arise when fitting the nodes. Choosing the right elements so that everything works perfectly is a very important task. The shaft must be fitted with self-aligning bearings if you will be using the machine every day. The bearings themselves are worth choosing with two rows of balls, which will be adjusted with a clamping nut.
The working surface must be with a grid marking. Without such a coordinate system it is not possible to work accurately on wood. Do not neglect the protective cover. when working, it will reliably protect the device from damage of a mechanical nature. Circular saws when working with different materials works in different modes, and therefore it is worth having a device that will control such a process. You need to make a couple of troughs on the shaft to be able to rearrange the pulleys to change the speed.
Interestingly, the parallel stop is an important device for working with large workpieces. You can make them with your own hands from chipboard, plywood or boards. The size of the stop should not be more than 2.5 cm. Pors should be bolted or self-tapping.
When you need to saw bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need a stop that has a U-shaped configuration. At its base will lie a board with a thickness of 3 cm. Screw the sidewalls to the base with a thickness of 1.2 cm. So the stop will be installed on the bar, the size of which will correspond to the size of the point of the cut to the saw blade.
On both sides it will be pressed by retainers to the bar, and if the bar is very large, it must be repositioned and make another cut. There is also an edge stop, which is very much in demand. To make it, you need a lot of time and excellent skills of the master. Be sure to make a blueprint before starting work. Make a stop out of plywood with a thickness of a couple of cm, and also a stop bar.
- Cut longitudinal slots for the keys.
- Install the dowels on the stop bar.
- Between the grooves made, make another one to attach the thrust bar.
- In the base you need another hole, the size of which will correspond to the circular saw cutter.
Install limiters on the sides, and there should be locking devices to securely fasten everything. To install the stop on the workpiece, the bar will move in the slots, and secured through the slot with clamps. It is best to attach a tape measure or ruler to the bed, because this will make work easier. The pusher is handy for working with small workpieces. it helps secure the part on both sides, and it ensures accurate work. If the machine is equipped with a three-phase motor (i.e. 380 V), you need capacitors that can handle a minimum voltage of 620 V. It can even be a paper device.
For the device is still important to calculate the capacitors. for 1 kW requires 100 uF for the working capacitor. The capacity of the starting element should be twice as large
Remember that the starter unit is a device that automatically returns to the starting position, and this is convenient, because seconds after the start you can start working.
What is needed to create
To get to work, it is necessary to prepare carefully.
Materials and tools
For a home-made table you need a solid metal or wooden base. Some craftsmen prefer to make tables out of aluminum, steel.
It is difficult to work with big volumes of wood with an ordinary circular saw, that’s why it is better to set it on the table.
Important! The wood must be treated with a special agent that has an antiseptic composition to prevent rotting processes. Materials that will be needed in the process of work:
Materials required in the course of work:
- The base, the thickness of which is not less than 22 cm;
- timbers for reinforcing and making the support (trimmed board in the amount of 5 pieces can be used);
- wooden dowels, 10 cm in size (12 pieces or more will be needed for the work);
- joinery glue;
- Metal fasteners (not less than 4 pieces, and the exact number depends on the size and length of the table);
- metal corners in the amount of 10 pieces;
- Self-tapping screws.
Prepare the tools before the work. For the marks take a pencil or marker, a meter, a tape measure, an electric jigsaw, a hand model router. To treat wood, you will need a sander, sandpaper of different grit levels, which removes nicks.
A modern jigsaw is equipped with a built-in safety feature, electronic speed controls, vibration and noise level dampers.
You also need a planer, a drill and an electric screwdriver. Materials and tools are prepared in advance and placed at the workplace.
It will go much easier if you use an electric screwdriver.
Determine the design and construction
To choose a design, you need to decide on the base material. For wooden table tops are suitable for sheet wood, which is resistant to the processes of rotting with proper antiseptic treatment. In the base make a special hole under the disk.
The table for the circular saw can be built by oneself, following a certain scheme precisely.
For the wooden base uses a strong base of four trestle, planks of size 50×150 mm. It must be stable to ensure safety. Curved or bent sheets of metal are not suitable for work, because there is a high risk of injury.
Constructing the element with your own hands allows you to make the saw as suitable as possible for your individual conditions.
You can make a simple design or equip it with a riving knife of removable design. Additionally perform a disk protection, so that the work shavings do not fly on the person who will work at the table. To be able to angle the blade, details must be added to adjust the angle of the blade.
It is possible to fit the product to the required size, to distribute everything so that it was convenient to you.
For circulation, make a guide carriage of the table. It includes the following elements:
After choosing the design of the structure, it is necessary to make drawings of the table for a circular saw with their own hands.
The model created by your own hands will be one of a kind, which makes it unique.
Drawings and diagrams
Please note! The blueprint is needed to prevent errors in the work process. First of all, calculate the dimensions in order to transfer them to the cardboard
In it make a hole that should fit the dimensions of the saw. Before creating the drawing and diagram, it is necessary to buy cutting tools. Universal holes in this design are not provided, because they will not be able to provide maximum stability, safety and endurance of large loads
First do the calculation of dimensions to transfer them to the cardboard. In it make a hole that should fit the dimensions of the saw. Before you create a drawing and a diagram you need to buy cutting tools. Universal holes are not foreseen in this construction, because they cannot ensure maximum stability, safety and high loads.
To make a table for a circular saw is quite feasible for every craftsman.
You can leave a little extra space for tools or wooden workpieces. Suitable dimensions: 120×120 cm.
An example of a drawing of a table for a circular saw:
No complications arise in the process if you study the question carefully.
Scheme with a detailed description and dimensions:
The table is made taking into account that the hand tool will be installed and fixed on the table, turning it into stationary equipment.
Wood frame machine
The easiest and most affordable way to make a bed for the machine involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for this purpose. In this design variant, the executive unit is placed directly under the table (tabletop), in which a slot is made for the cutting blade of appropriate dimensions.
The wood frame is reliable and easy to make
As an example we will consider the construction of a bed with a height of approx. 110-120 cm, which is designed for holding a hand-held circular saw on it. The length of the table top of such a construction can be changed in small limits at your discretion.
The most convenient material for the tabletop is multilayer plywood, at least 50 mm thick. However, other materials (Plexiglas or fiberglass boards, for example) can be selected for this purpose. As for such a widespread material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable, as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.
To make a wood-based machine, you will need the materials listed below:
- sheet iron workpiece;
- a standard sheet of thick plywood;
- a pair of 50×50 mm cross-section bars;
- thick boards with a size of 50 x 100 mm;
- a steel angle, necessary to increase the rigidity of fixing the rails;
- circular saw;
- two screw clamps.
In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:
- Classic screwdriver and electric drill;
- A simple wood saw or electric jigsaw;
- Measuring tools (angle, tape measure, ruler);
- portable woodworking router.
In the absence of such a cutter, you can use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.
How to make it: step by step instructions
Circular saw table top in its final state
In order to make a quality construction, it is necessary to follow some tips. The process consists of several steps, as shown in the table below.
|1||The block should be trimmed on all sides with a planer. Then the frame of the future table is assembled from it. Drill a few 5 mm holes on each side of the worktop. Additionally one through hole is made for the legs of the product.|
|2||Several holes of the same diameter are made in the cylinders. In the legs perform one through hole. The diameter remains the same, 5 mm.|
|3||Proceed to install the dowels in the countertop. Beforehand they are coated with carpentry glue. Place the feet and the crossbars on top. If there are clamps with clamps, the product should be fastened using them. When the glue dries completely, you need to fix the beams and legs, using special metal fasteners. In addition, it is necessary to tighten with self-tapping screws. You can add extra strength and sturdiness to your structure with the help of angle pieces. They will be an element of additional attachment, giving the product stability. For the short side 2 pieces are enough, and for the long side 3 will do.|
|4||The next step involves securing the saw to the product from the inside. There are several methods to accomplish the task. M4 bolts or self-tapping bars are good for fixing. The first case is fast and secure. The second method doesn’t involve additional holes, which eliminates the need for drilling. It is necessary to make a cut in the bars, the width of which is equal to the dimensions of the saw’s platform. Then self-tapping screws and timbers on both sides fasten the equipment and the table top|
|5||After installing the saw, another large bar is needed. It, using self-tapping screws, fasten to the base of the structure. Screwing is carried out on the marks made when aligning the platform in a level position. The mentioned manipulation will help you, when removing the saw, to return it usually quickly without looking for marks|
|6||The saw blade is set in its proper place. The base is sawn through to obtain a longitudinal hole. Then the product must be turned over|
|7||Then start making the parallel stop. Two strips of plywood are sawn off. Their length should coincide with the width of the table. On average these dimensions are 10 cm. The corners should be rounded|
|8||The obtained strips are grinded. They must be fastened at an angle with self-tapping screws. You have to screw a metal angle inside|
|9||If it is necessary to fix a stop on the base and the structure will be used frequently, attach the guide so that it is perpendicular to the disk. Attach the roller on the underside. This will allow it to move.|
The set-up is completed and ready for use
When carrying out the described manipulations it is important to remember about observance of safety measures. Also applies to any work with the circular saw. Check regularly the table position and firmness
The structure should be stable, without loosening
Check regularly the position of the table and its strength. The structure must be stable, without loosening.
Example of a circular saw work table that has been fabricated
Manual circular saw table variant with lifting mechanism
First make sure that the saw is securely fastened, only then turn it on. Do not hold the material to be cut with your hands. This will help avoid getting wood in the face when knots start bouncing off. In addition, it is recommended to use special safety glasses when working.
Makeshift circular saw from a handmade circular saw
Hand operated circular saw. an extremely useful tool for the needs of the home workshop. Cut lumber of different cross sections at any angle, cut sheets of plywood or hardboard. Work traditionally performed with a rotating circular saw blade. However, a circular saw in stationary form, known as a circular saw, has by far the greater possibilities. In order to turn a handheld circular saw into a circular saw, it is necessary to make a special table. For example, as a frame can be used the simplest wooden (or metal) trestle connected with each other by two pieces of thick (40-50 mm) board.
A table is fastened on top of this base. It can be assembled from two rectangular steel plates 150-200 mm wide and 4 mm thick. Last connect between themselves by crosspieces from thick (20-25 mm) plywood with screws. Optimum clearance between table parts. 10-12 mm. It is very important to achieve perfect parallelism between the inner edges of the plates.
Circular saw table: 1. plywood crosspiece; 2. steel plate; 3. insert; 4. saw blade; 5. screws; 6. countersunk head screws; 7. base plate.
The hand-held circular saw is connected to the table from below so that the saw blade is exactly in the middle of the gap between the plates and is parallel to them. In this position the saw is bolted to the table through the holes pre-drilled in the plates and base plate. To make the table surface smooth, the holes in the base plate from the front side are counterbored, and the entire assembly is tightened with countersunk screws. the assembled table is screwed to the base with screws or screws and nuts, and in the gap between the plates the insert with a saw blade slot is inserted. The circular saw is practically ready for work. When working on the circular saw, the sliding bar is attached to the table with clamps.
One useful device for the circular saw can be a carriage which makes such operations as facing workpieces and sawing at a 45° angle as easy as possible. Its design is very simple. To the sheet of plywood on the glue and screws are attached guide bars, the distance between which corresponds to the width of the circular saw table. 2 Stiffening strips are mounted in a similar way on top. The carriage is placed on the table and while the machine is running moves along the guides on the disk, making a through cut of the whole fixture. Because the flanges are much higher than the saw blade exit, the carriage maintains sufficient rigidity.
The carriage of the circular saw: 1. guide blocks; 2. plywood; 3. kerf; 4. stop beads; 5. removable ledge.
Workpieces are faced by pressing them against the flange and moving the slide longitudinally across the table. To prepare the joint “on the bevel”, use a removable bar set at a 45° angle, against which the workpiece is pressed.
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