How to make a mini drill with their own hands

How and from what to assemble a mini drill with your own hands

Mini drill is a universal master helper in carrying out minor home repairs. It is also used to repair various types of digital and computer equipment or electronics. You can find the drill at the market or an electrical hardware store, but it can be expensive.

Therefore, if there is no mini drill on hand, and spending your own money to buy it there is no time or desire, you can take the advice of experienced craftsmen and build a tool at home, using improvised means and materials.

Materials needed

Before we proceed to the description of the various ways of making a homemade mini drill, we should determine what structural elements this tool consists of.

• The drive is the heart of every machine. It can be either mechanical or electrical in the form of an electric motor. In this case, based on safety rules, masters recommend using a low-powered unit with an operating voltage of up to 12 volts for the mini drill.

RS385 12V electric motor

• Chuck clamp. If you want, you can find a universal chuck that fits both a drill and an electric screwdriver. Such are, for example, collet mechanisms. they are cheap, and consist of a chuck and replaceable drills, which are fixed in the chuck by protruding bolts.
• A miniature battery or power pack to power our Mini Drill. If possible, it is better to use a machine with an adjustable supply voltage, this allows you to change the speed of the shaft.

• Enclosure or case.

Reference! There are manual or electric versions of the mini drill in the manufacture of which certain elements are excluded from the design (such as the power unit or housing).

Mini drill with their own hands

All homemade mini-drills that you can make yourself can be divided into electric (driven by an electric motor) and manual mini-drills (manually rotated). The first option has significant advantages at the expense of autonomous operation, but at the same time, you need both a motor and a power source for it. The second variant of mini drill requires neither power nor an electric motor, so it is much easier to make if you have all the necessary materials. Having chosen which type suits you best, you can proceed to its manufacture.

Note at once that this is exactly a reduced version of the classic device for drilling, so the work that can be performed with a mini drill is limited to plastic, circuit boards, plywood, soft wood. Work on steel workpieces and concrete it can not, so the power of the device is relatively small.

What you need for an electric mini drill?

Each of us at home can find a huge number of hand tools, which no longer use, but they can still be used to create a mini drill.

To assemble such a tool yourself you will need:

• A small motor is the most important part, because its parameters will directly depend on the capabilities of the mini drill. The most suitable variants are engines from old hairdryers. they have good enough power and the number of revolutions from 1000 to 1800 rpm, and the hairdryers themselves are often sent to the category of junk even with a working motor. Also a motor from a blender or mixer will do well (from them you can leave the body), from a tape recorder and children’s toys motors are less powerful, but for the mini drill quite suitable.
• Power supply. depending on the device type, the motor can be powered from either 220vac or a 6vdc undervoltage. In the first case, it is enough to connect it to the socket through the power cord. If the motor runs on DC with a rated voltage of 3, 6, 12 V, you need a power adapter with conversion to the appropriate level or a few batteries.
• Chuck. the ideal chuck for the mini drill is a native element of a defective electric screwdriver or small drill. But not everyone can afford such a luxury, so the universal option is considered a collet. a part for clamping round elements or a homemade sleeve made of metal tubing with bolt clamps.

Important thing about the collet is the inside diameter. it has to be exactly right for the diameter of the motor shaft. If the collet is smaller in diameter, it simply will not fit on the shaft, if too large, it will be loose, which will affect the drilling process. Before you buy a particular model, measure the shaft, usually 1.5 or 2.3 mm, but this can vary.

• Case. the main function of the case is to protect both the device itself from clogging and exposure to external factors, as well as the person by isolating the electrical part of the mini drill from the hands. Plastic parts such as deodorant bottles, plastic water pipes, housings from old lanterns and other things work well as mini drill bodies. The issue of insulation is particularly relevant for devices powered by 220 V mains, if the drill is powered by a safe low voltage of up to 42 VAC and 110 VDC, the housing can be made from metal tubes, canisters, etc.д. Fig. 3: version of the housing from a syringe
• Connection wires can be chosen according to the load, but insulated brands with a small cross section can be chosen because of the small amperage of the motor. To solder them, you need solder and a soldering iron or papa-mama type connectors. The second option is appropriate in situations where you need to reverse the mini drill.
• Drill bit and other bits. fit in collet, you can replace drill bit with cutter if you want, etc.д. Selected according to collet hole diameter.

Most of the parts you can find at home but if you can’t find the chuck it’s better to buy a collet or get a bushing from a turner. Do not solder the drill directly to the shaft, as some “craftsmen” advise. Such attachment can easily fail long before the first work with the mini-drill is finished.

Assembly of an electric mini drill.

For assembly choose a dry place, so that no moisture can get inside the device at this stage. Because water or condensation can damage your drill when you turn it on or give you an electric shock. The whole process is conditionally divided into several stages, observing which you will get a mini drill, not particularly different in parameters from the factory products:

• Solder the two wires to the contacts of the electric motor (if you didn’t leave them from the previous product). For DC models, it is important to observe the polarity of the connection, so it is better to mark the wires with different colors for convenience. Figure. 4: solder wires to the motor
• Solder the button to the motor starter circuit, this is not a compulsory option but it is rather handy if you intend to use the mini-drill for a long time. Fig. 5: Button for power drill
• 6: Clamp the drill bit in the collet or sleeve depending on the chuck design and make sure it is clamped so that it cannot be turned by hand. Fig. 6: Insert drill bit
• Place the assembled chuck onto the motor shaft, as deep as possible. But make sure that the chuck itself does not touch the motor housing when rotating, there must be a gap of at least 2. 3 mm between them. Because at high speeds, it can become loose and cling to the motor housing, which over time can break the motor. Fig. 7: fit the chuck onto the motor
• Fix the cartridge on the shaft by means of the bolts. Note, tightening should be done alternately on an equal number of turns of each of the bolts. If during the chucking you find that one or more of the bolts are no longer pulling, let go of the previous bolts to even them out. If the head moves against the shaft, the drill bit and the mini-drill itself will come apart during drilling. Fig. 8: order of tightening the chuck
• Mini drill ready, plug in the power supply or battery pack and try to start. Fig. 9: Connect the power supply

Mechanical

For this mini-drill, you need any mechanism with gears from the horizontal to the vertical plane. the best choice among those available in your home is the free spool from a fishing rod.

This option is especially good because the entire mechanism already makes rotational movements, it has a handle, so you will need to put minimal effort into making the mini drill.

But, you still need to buy a suitable chuck. As in the previous version, for it you can take a part from an old unwanted electric screwdriver, a collet or a sleeve. The collet is best selected after taking the coil apart, when you can measure the diameter of the shaft.

The process of making a hand drill can be divided into the following steps

• Unscrew nut and remove the cassette Fig. 13: unscrew the nut
• Measure the length of the shaft and the depth of the future chuck. if they are comparable, you can fasten them to each other; Fig. 14: measure the length of the shaft
• Use a collet or sleeve bolt to secure the chuck to the shaft; Fig. 15: collet for the shaft
• If the spool handle is too big and you get your hand in the way of the workpiece while drilling, shorten it so that it does not get in the way;

To shorten the arm it is necessary to saw off a part of the arm and fix the handle of the mini drill with a pin. The handheld mini drill is ready for use, but it should be noted that you should not put excessive pressure on the drill bit because it will easily break or deform.

Power and controls

If you have a power supply with a power regulator, it’s a good idea to change the RPM of the drill while working. If you are using a common power supply, it is advisable to use a power button on the case for added convenience. You can use either a on/off switch or a rocker switch, depending on your needs. It’s also a good idea to have a housing with a jack that fits into the power supply.

For the electronics enthusiast, there is a USB port that can be used to power the mini drill from a computer or laptop.

Attachments for the mini drill

Regular drill bits may not be enough if you are not a radio amateur, but rather a model maker or other creative activity that requires the use of a mini drill or drill press. Some attachments are not difficult to make yourself:

• Cutter. You can use a spinning reel from a lighter. Slide it onto a screw of the proper size and secure it with a nut.
• Grinding head. A small nail will do. Put a champagne cork or wrap a cylinder of masking tape around it. Cut a rectangle out of sandpaper of the desired grit size and stick it around the circumference of the head cylinder. You’ll need several of these heads for processing different materials.
• Circular saw. Use the top or bottom of a C-cell battery, also known as a “barrel”. Battery material is strong enough to make a circular disk. Use a compass to mark out a hole in the center. The oblique teeth must be the same size to avoid runout while working. Use a bolt to fix it in the drill chuck, securing the disc to it with nuts. As you can see, a mini drill with their own hands from the motor is not difficult to make, if you are full of enthusiasm. Suitable are many improvised materials that you often throw away. The only thing that you will have to spend money on is the collet: it is extremely difficult to make it yourself.

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What to make

On the Internet you can find a lot of video materials on making homemade models of mini devices. The most popular designs of mini drills present the following list:

• CBM from an electric chuck.
• Full analogue of the factory dremel.
• Drill from a toothbrush.
• MD from the drive of the printer.
• The economical version without the housing.
• Reinventing an old tape recorder.
• Idea with antiperspirant.

CBM of the electric cartridge

Antenna for digital TV with their own hands

In every home you can find an electric socket for a light bulb. The body can be made out of it. There are standard cartridges and housings for light bulbs mignons. Both are suitable for DIY. Everything depends on the outer diameter of the motor.

Fabrication proceeds as follows:

• Remove the core of the fittings.
• Unscrew back cover.
• Inside the housing the motor is inserted, the side surface of which is covered with hot melt glue or cold welding.
• Adjust the thickness of the shaft to the size of the hole in the collet clamp.
• On the front part of the body glue a plastic cover from a plastic container. Pre-cut a hole in the lid for the motor rod passage.
• The cartridge is secured to the shaft with a locking cross screw.
• The motor wires are fed through the hole in the screw-on cover and then connected to the rectifier output terminals.
• If you can put a microswitch in the back cover of the electric cartridge, it will be convenient to use the drill.

Pay attention! Use the rectifier regulator to change the amount of current and voltage and increase or decrease the speed of the function tool. do not forget that if you exceed the current limits, there is a risk of “burning” the motor.

The full equivalent of a factory-made dremel

Mini drill is often called dremel by the name. the leading manufacturer of this type of power tools. It’s almost impossible to make a fully home-built machine similar to the Dremel.

It all depends on the master in terms of selection of spare parts. Making a homemade machine in the conditions of the home workshop will never compare to the professional production of CBM. Although with a certain effort you can achieve some success in this direction.

Tip. No need to blindly copy the industrial model. Better to buy a ready-made tool.

Toothbrush drill

Those who have used electric toothbrushes know how quickly the brush heads wear out, and new brushes are impossible to find on sale. If you have one in the household, it’s a good option to make a mini drill.

The difficulty of making is to remove the vibrator and install the chuck on the shaft of the motor. The device is powered by a battery or a 18650 battery. Such a device will not have a large number of revolutions of the motor shaft. But the MD will serve well as an engraving tool.

A dynamo from a printer drive

An old printer is an excellent “supplier” of parts for making a mini drill. Remove the motor and the power supply from the device. If the motor shaft is too thick, it is ground on a sharpener. The motor is turned on and brought to the abrasive. Measuring the diameter at regular intervals, the treated rod is adjusted to the diameter of the collet chuck. After completing all the work of installing the housing, fixing the chuck, installing the limit switch, the device is connected to the power supply unit. After that, it remains to install the desired functional attachment and get to work.

Motor from an old printer

Economical version without housing

In order not to be engaged in search of a suitable product for the body of the drill, the motor is wrapped in 2 layers of shrink wrap. The heated coating tightly covers the side surface of the motor, thus creating reliable insulation of the power tool.

Mini drill without housing

Second life to an old tape recorder

The thrifty owner can find an old tape recorder or player. If the sound-reproducing device is made in a stationary form, the power supply is used, as in the previous case.

The motor from the player also adapted for the rotation of the chuck with a nozzle. The device will be mobile, because instead of batteries, powerful AA batteries are placed in the power supply.

Electric motor from a tape recorder

Idea with antiperspirant

The body of a used ball deodorant is quite suitable for making a mini drill. The advantage of this option is the shape of the plastic bottle. It is made to be comfortable and firmly held in your hand.

Deodorant ball casing

Additional information. When making the deodorizer housing, you should try to place the power button in the thumb reach of the employee’s hand. This will create an additional comfortable option to control the device.

Hammer md050b

With power of only 8 watts and torque of 15 thousand rpm we can say that this device is worth its money.

Lightweight, which is only 0.4 kg will not burden your hands. The kit includes a fairly wide selection of nozzles, as well as additional components that make it easier to work with different materials and surfaces.

Instructions:

First, we take the motor. You can get a similar motor from any broken electrical toy, printer (not a stepper motor) or tape recorder. The motor should be high-speed and powered by direct current, to put it simply, to work from ordinary “finger” batteries.

Take 2 wires, stripped the ends, and as shown in the picture put into the hole terminal, and twist.

Now we have to solder the twisted wires to make a good contact.

We put our motor with soldered wires inside the syringe, but not all the way. The motor should fit tightly into the syringe.

Using a hot glue gun, apply glue in a circle.

We take the switch. You can buy it at any store that sells radio parts or order it online.

In the syringe cut a rectangular hole for our switch. Pull the wire that we solder to the switch.

Shrink the switch back into its seating place. Using a glue gun, glue the perimeter of the switch.

Cut through the hole indicated by the red arrow. This can be done with a soldering iron. In this aperture we pierce 2 wires, red wire going from the second terminal of the switch and yellow wire going from a motor.

Take the battery compartment and regular AA batteries or rechargeable batteries. Such a box can be bought or taken out of a toy, as well as a motor.

Apply hot glue in two strips to the back ribs of the syringe.

Before you connect the yellow wire, you have to put a heat shrink on it. The green arrows and the numbers 3 are showing. Number 1 shows the wire from the second terminal of the switch, connect it to the “plus” coming out of the battery box. Under number 2 we show a yellow wire which goes from the motor, we connect it with the “minus” going out of the box. Pull the heat shrink over the joints of the wires and use a lighter, matches or a construction dryer to heat the heat shrink tube, which will tightly crimp our contacts.

We take a terminal “pad”. You can buy it at any electrical supply store. This block on 1 screw put on the motor axis, the second screw does not touch, it will clamp the drill. Tighten the first screw.

Take the drill, the diameter of the drill should not exceed the inner diameter of the block. Insert the drill bit into the pad as far as it will go and tighten the second screw.

Insert the 4 batteries, respecting the polarity and pushing the switch. the drill should work! Mini drill is ready!

Handmade materials for the mini drill with your own hands

There are many alternative uses for your inventive skills to create a mini drill with your own hands. The bases for creating such tools can be:

• DVD drive;
• The motor from an old electric razor;
• An electric toothbrush;
• The handle of a glue gun with a suitable motor;
• A non-working electric screwdriver;
• Washing machine motor;
• An old hair dryer;
• Plastic tube.

All these seemingly unnecessary little things can serve a good purpose and become the main detail for creating the necessary tool.

Important! When working with a homemade mini drill, try to keep the drill perpendicular to the work surface. This will prevent the drill from breaking and extend the life of your device.

How to make a mini drill with your own hands

Everyone can make a mini drill, the main thing a few details that can be found at home or in the garage.

For a mini drill we will need:

• Motor;
• 50 ml syringe;
• Wires;
• Glue gun;
• Soldering iron;
• Hacksaw;
• A box for 4 batteries (Battery compartment);
• 4 AA batteries;
• 1 battery terminal block.

Instructions:

To begin with we take a motor. A motor like this can be pulled from any broken electrical toy, printer (not a stepper motor) or tape recorder. The motor should be high-speed and DC-powered, in other words, it should work with regular “finger” batteries.

Take 2 wires, stripping the ends and slip them through the hole in the terminals, and twist them as shown in the picture.

Now solder the twisted wires, for a good contact.

Insert our motor with soldered wire inside the syringe, but not all the way. The motor should fit snugly into the syringe.

Using a hot glue gun, apply glue in a circle.

Take the switch. You can buy it at any store that sells radio parts or order it online.

We cut a rectangular hole in the syringe to fit our switch. Pull through the wire and solder it to the switch.

Slide the switch into place. Using a glue gun, glue the switch around the perimeter.

Cut through the hole indicated by the red arrow. This can be done with a soldering iron. Through this hole we insert two wires, the red one coming from the second terminal of the switch and the yellow one coming from the motor.

Take the battery compartment and regular AA batteries or rechargeable batteries. You can buy such a box or get it out of a toy, just like a motor.

Apply the hot glue in two strips to the back ribs of the syringe.

Before you connect the wires, put on a heat shrink, marked with green arrows and numbers 3. Number 1 shows a wire from the second terminal of the switch, connect it to the “plus” coming out of the battery box. Under the number 2 you can see the yellow wire, which goes from the motor, connect it to the “minus” coming out of the box. Pull the heat shrink over the joints of the wires and use a lighter, matches or a construction dryer to heat the heat shrink tube, which will tightly crimp our contacts.

We take a terminal block. You can buy it in any electrical goods store. This block on a screw 1 put on the motor axis, the second screw does not touch, it will clamp the drill. Firmly tighten the first screw.

Take the drill, the diameter of the drill bit must not exceed the inner diameter of the strip. Let’s insert the drill into the block up to the stop and tighten the second screw.

Insert the 4 batteries, respecting the polarity and pushing the switch. the drill should work! The mini drill is ready!

How to make a mini drill with my own hands

Everyone can make a mini drill, the main thing a few details that can be found at home or in the garage.

For the mini drill, we will need:

• A motor;
• One 50 ml syringe;
• Wires;
• The glue gun;
• Soldering iron;
• Hacksaw;
• Battery box for 4 batteries (Battery compartment);
• 4 AA batteries;
• 1 terminal strip.

Instructions:

First we take the motor. A similar motor can be pulled from any broken electrical toy, printer (not a step motor) or tape recorder. The motor must be high-speed and DC-powered, in other words, to work with regular “finger” batteries.

We take 2 wires, clean the ends, and like in the picture, put them through the hole in the terminals, and twist them.

Now solder the twisted wires to make a good contact.

Insert our motor with soldered wires into the syringe, but not all the way through. The motor should fit tightly into the syringe.

Use a hot glue gun to apply glue all around the circumference.

Take the switch. You can buy it at any store that sells radio parts or order it online.

In the syringe, cut a rectangular hole for our switch. Pull through the wire and solder it to the switch.

Slide the switch into its seat. Use a glue gun to glue the switch around the perimeter.

Make the hole indicated by the red arrow. This can be done with a soldering iron. In this aperture we pierce 2 wires, red wire going from the second terminal of the switch and yellow wire going from the motor.

Take the battery compartment and ordinary AA batteries or rechargeable batteries. You can buy a similar box or take it out of a toy, as well as a motor.

Apply the hot glue in two strips to the back ribs of the syringe.

Before you connect the wires, put on a heat shrink, marked by green arrows and digits 3. The wire, going from the second terminal of the switch, is under number 1. Connect it to the plus sign which is coming out of the battery box. The yellow wire which goes from the motor is shown under number 2, we connect it to the “minus” going out of the box. With help of a lighter, matches or a construction dryer we heat the heat shrink tube to the joints of wires, which will tightly tighten our contacts.

Take the terminal block. You can buy it at any hardware store. We put this block on 1 screw on the motor axis, do not touch the second screw, it will clamp the drill. Tighten the first screw firmly.

Take the drill bit, the diameter of the drill bit should not exceed the inner diameter of the shoe. Insert the drill all the way into the socket and tighten the second screw.

Insert 4 batteries, observing polarity and press the switch. the drill should work! Mini drill is ready!

How to make a chuck for the mini drill

For the homemade chuck, you will need a piece of metal or textolite pipe, the diameter of which fits the shaft of the motor. The length of the homemade sleeve should be at least twice the length of the shaft and allow you to reliably strengthen the drill.

You can fix the sleeve with screws or hot melt glue. As a rule, the motor shaft has a diameter of 2-5 mm, and drills for making boards have a smaller diameter. So, you need to fill the space formed with filler and achieve the alignment of the drill and the shaft.

Take rosin as filler and pour it into the hole of the sleeve. Use the soldering iron to melt the rosin and insert the drill. The rosin will harden and hold it securely.

To get a perfect alignment, melt the rosin again and power up. While the rosin is hardening, try to fix the position of the drill with the tweezers. Repeat the operation if necessary.

Mini drill with his own hands

50 ml syringe; wires; glue gun; soldering iron; hacksaw; battery box for 4 batteries (battery compartment); 4 AA batteries; 1 terminal strip.Instructions: First we take a motor. A motor like this can be pulled out of any broken electrical toy, printer (not a step motor) or tape recorder. The motor should be high-speed and powered by direct current, to put it simply, to work from regular “finger” batteries.

Take two wires, strip the ends and as in the figure put into the hole terminals, and twist.

Now the twisted wires need to be soldered, for a good contact.

Take a 50 ml syringe.

Saw off the front part of the syringe.

Insert our motor with the soldered wires inside the syringe, but not all the way. The motor should fit tightly into the syringe.

Using a hot glue gun, apply glue in a circle.

We take the switch. You can buy it at any store that sells radio parts or you can order it online.

Cut a rectangular hole in the syringe to fit our switch. Pull through the wire and solder it to the switch.

Place the switch in its seating. Using a glue gun, glue the switch around the perimeter.

Make the hole indicated by the red arrow. This can be done with a soldering iron. Through this hole we insert two wires, the red one coming from the second terminal of the switch and the yellow one coming from the motor.

Take the battery compartment and standard AA batteries or rechargeable AA batteries. You can buy such a box or take it out of a toy, the same as the motor.

Apply hot glue in two strips to the back ribs of the syringe.

Glue the battery compartment.

Before you connect the wires, put on a heat shrink, indicated by the green arrows and the numbers 3. Number 1 shows the wire going from the second terminal of the switch, connect it to the “plus” coming out of the battery box. Under the number 2 you can see the yellow wire, which comes from the motor, connect it to the “minus” coming out of the box. Pull the shrinking tube over the junction point of the wires, and using a lighter, matches or a construction dryer heat the shrinking tube, which will tightly crimp our plugs.

Take the terminal “block”. You can buy them at any electrical supply store. We put this block on 1 screw to the motor axis, do not touch the second screw, it will clamp the drill. Tighten the first screw.

Take the drill, the diameter of the drill should not exceed the inner diameter of the block. Let’s insert a drill bit into a block up to the stop and tighten the second screw.

Insert the 4 batteries, while respecting the polarity and press the switch. the drill should work! The mini drill is ready!

Economical version without housing

The most budget model of mini drill is a regular electric motor, which is connected to the power unit through the wire without the housing. For 12 volt motor you need power supply consisting of 30 watt transformer and rectifier bridge, for example, on the diode 1N1007.

To protect the motor from the pulsating oscillations of the winding in the rectification process will include the simplest capacitor, up to 25 V with a capacitive characteristic of 1000 microfarads in the circuit.

The chain works reliably, but as the load increases, for example, when drilling out dense material, the voltage will drop, causing the rotation to stop. The voltage can be stabilized by adding stabilizers in the circuit KR142EN8B or L7812CV

Once the drive unit is ready, you make or buy a chuck. for home drilling of miniature holes, even a rod from a pen in which the drill is fixed with glue may work. Also the chuck can be replaced by the previously suggested collet or screw terminal.

Homemade dremel with his own hands

In this article tells how to make a dremel by yourself. Sometimes it happens that ideas come to mind that cannot be realized without certain tools. For the handyman there is nothing worse than realizing your own helplessness in such a situation. One of the tools that people who do not have enough money dream of is a dremel. And, if you do not have enough money to buy it, why not make it yourself??!

Materials and tools: Batteries 9V (2 pcs.) Sockets for 9V batteries (2 pcs.) The switches (for switching the tool and the power switch) Insulating tape Motor 9-18V Mounting wire, preferably black and red wire Cutters and wire stripper Cardboard (2-3 sheets) Scissors In one of the pictures you can see the glue, but it was not needed. it was successfully replaced by electrical tape.

We need to connect all elements of the circuit in a chain to make the resulting drill work.

Take a piece of red wire, divide it into three parts, strip the ends, and connect the switches and the motor in series with it.

Then take the battery connectors and strip the ends of the wires coming from them. Twist together the “pluses” from each connector and the red wire that connects the motor and the switches. Seal the connections with tape.

Then take a piece of black wire and twist it with the black (“minus”) wires coming from the plugs, also stripping the ends. Then connect the elongated black wire to the motor, closing the circuit.

Twist the cardboard around the motor and secure it with a piece of duct tape.

Try to figure out where you want to place the switches on the frame. Place them so that the dremel can be turned on with the thumb, and the power is turned on with the little finger. Use scissors to cut holes big enough to accommodate the switches.

Then tape the edges of the holes to make the construction look neater and the switches to fit snugly in their sockets.

Attach the batteries to the connectors dangling from the back of the cardboard case, and secure them with tape. If the case does not look strong enough to hold all the elements, add more cardboard.

Congratulations! You have assembled half of the dremel with your own hands.

There is only one thing left to do to fix the bit holder. We need the epoxy, the syringe, a knife and a drill or chisel that needs to be attached to the tool. Put the epoxy resin mixed with the hardener into the syringe. Try to avoid the bubbles.

Put the motor axle in the syringe and wait until the resin hardens. So we have a piece of plastic on the motor axle.

Turn on our home-made dremel and using a knife, cutting off the excess, give the plastic a cone shape. Now we have a responsible step, we need to drill a hole in the center of the cone.

After that we have a great bit holder. You can insert the drill bit and test its work. The drill can be fixed with superglue. It is not too good at gluing metal, so the drill on the dremel can be replaced. You can make a separate holder for each drill bit, because the materials are not expensive. The author claims that the accuracy of the tool is very high and surpasses cheap engravers and drills.

As a result, we got a home-made dremel, assembled entirely with our own hands. It certainly does not have the strength and accuracy of expensive brand name tools. But it is useful in cases where you are strapped for cash, but to work you just need.