How To Make A Thorn On A Circular

How to make a thorn on a Circular

If you need to assemble a sturdy plywood box, it is best to use a glued tenon joint. However, cutting thorns for him without Special devices is very difficult.

How you can adapt a circular saw for this, read the article.

Once I needed to make many boxes of different sizes from plywood. As you know, plywood does not like fastening with self-tapping screws to the end and often splits from this. I had a tenon cutter for a router, but it had low productivity, and besides, when using low-quality plywood, the cutters quickly became dull. And the sharpening of the cutter gradually changes its diameter, and it becomes impossible to work with it on the tenon cutter. Therefore, the task was set to create a new, more powerful tool with the ability to cut thorns immediately in a pack of blanks to speed up work.

To solve this problem, I used a stationary circular saw, for which I made a special device. I make the grooves with a block of disks, and the accuracy of movement is ensured by a stud, in which there is a fixed thread pitch. I’ll tell you how I made this device.

Circular Dust Thorn Cutter

An old homemade saw stop came in handy as the base of the thorn cutting device.
2. On the sides of the stop, I installed vertical posts made of larch, which I additionally strengthened for rigidity with side plates. I pre-pressed the bearings into the racks under the driving pin. Stud used with M1D thread and 1.75 mm pitch.
3. Moving along the hairpin is done with the help of a wooden block in which a long nut is hidden. Using a shorter nut may cause the unit to skew while driving.

The blanks of the boxes in my design are fastened with clamps to the support board. To make it last longer and NOT wrinkle from the clamps, for its manufacture I used a larch decking board, which I leveled with a Thicknesser.

At first, I planned to make the resistances with a single board, but it would require a lock on the bottom and, in addition, the bottom edge would be damaged by the saw when cutting the thorns. If I raised the support board above the level of the spikes, then there would be a problem of chips on the workpieces, especially from plywood. Therefore, I made the support board in two parts.

The lower, narrower and shorter part of the support board was rigidly attached to the base of the tenon cutter, and the upper part was left movable. It is moved by means of a wooden block with a nut and a pin along the groove in the bottom of the support board.
5. In the lower part I installed a replaceable anti-splinter pad made of MDF. I installed a side stop on the movable part of the support board. strictly perpendicular to both the board and the base plate. Then I attached a block to the edge of the base as an additional attachment and made a cut in the base for the disc to pass.
6. For safety, in the front part, where the disc comes out, glued a protective block. On the sides of this bar there is a place where the handles will be installed for the convenience of moving the tenon cutter along the saw table skids.
7. To control the position of the disc, set two pointers. The first shows when the backing board is set to the “zero” position, that is, when the disc is in close contact with its plane with the side stop. The second helps to count the revolutions when the stud rotates. As a second counter, I used a wooden “barrel”, rigidly fixed to a pin, on which I put a risk in 1/4 turn increments.
8. To ensure faster performance, I used a “sandwich” of two identical discs and spacers between them. There are special kits for setting the exact width of the groove, but they are expensive, and I have such a comment. To get the gasket of the right thickness, I cut out a duralumin washer with a thickness slightly less than necessary and brought it to the desired size using self-adhesive aluminum tape. I would like to point out that it is better to use new identical discs. I had one new, and the second was already a little used, as a result, when cutting, a small step appears at the base of the spike.
9. After a lot of trials and adjustments, I got a “sandwich” with a cutting width of 5.25 mm, which corresponds to 3 turns of the stud (1.75 mm x 3 = 5.25 mm). This made it possible to make 5.25mm wide cleats by turning the pin 6 full turns between cuts. If it was necessary to make larger spikes, then the number of revolutions proportionally increased.
10. Tenon cutter ready to work.

On this, the manufacture of tenon cutters could have been completed. However, after a short operation, several shortcomings in its work were discovered.

Firstly, counting a large number of revolutions is NOT convenient. you can easily get lost. Secondly, if an incomplete rotation of the stud was required, then the Counting became even more difficult, and the accuracy dropped. Thirdly, since the gap between the pin and the moving support board did NOT allow the handle to be rotated normally, it had to be brought out to the right to the maximum, and this protruding long part of the pin made the device not very comfortable.

To remedy these shortcomings, I decided to mount the “reducer” on a pin of two gears at right angles to each other. The size of the gears was selected so that in one revolution of the driving gear, the pin makes 3 revolutions. The most affordable option for me was to make gears from wood, so I used 13 mm birch plywood as the material.

I got the drawings of the gears using the Matthias Wandeley gear generator, which can be found on his website. Then I pasted the printouts on plywood and cut out the gears with a band saw.
12. To ensure that the gears are well engaged, their teeth are cut at an angle of M degrees. over, different sides of the tooth were cut accordingly with an inclination in different directions. My band saw allows you to tilt the table only in one direction, so I did not use the tilt of her table, but made an inclined base and attached it with a clamp to the saw table. First, I cut out the left sides of the teeth while tilting to the right, and then I turned the stop and cut out the right sides. I connected both cuts at the base with a hand jigsaw.
13. After that, I grinded each tooth and drilled a central hole.
14. The gear works only with the upper parts of the teeth, so I did not carefully process their lower parts.

Installation of the “reducer”. First, I cut off part of the right pillar with a hand hacksaw and tried to install a furniture nut to fasten the drive gear. However, this option turned out to be a failure. Due to the bearing installed in the rack, it was NOT possible to secure the nut tightly with long self-tapping screws, and the large lever of the drive gear led to strong beats. The idea of ​​simply putting a large gear on the bolt was also bad: for the gear to rotate easily, a little play was needed, and it also caused beats.

I had to press the bearing into the gear, and instead of the furniture nut, I would put a 3 mm thick metal plate with fasteners that went beyond the bearing in the rack. To compensate for the thickness of the metal plate, a recess was made in the gears on the inside.
17. I installed a handle on the drive gear and numbered the teeth for convenience (a turn by one tooth is equal to 1/4 of a turn of the stud). Downstairs on the counter made a counter-risk for accurate positioning. After that, I sawed off the extra piece of the stud and covered the structure with wax for better sliding and protection from moisture and dirt.
18. By turning the drive gear by a different number of revolutions, I get studs of different thicknesses and can even make them unequal.

The classic tenon connection is still the main one in the manufacture of wooden doors and furniture. Of course, for a long time no one makes spikes by hand, working with a hacksaw. a reward and a chisel. Easier and better parts are obtained after processing on machines. But this does NOT mean that such connections cannot be made at home, using the most common tools.

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A tenon joint involves gouging a socket on one part and cutting out a tenon on another. Swotting is a separate topic, one of the options is in the article for studs.

The thorns can be flat root, flat plug-in, round plug-in (dowels, dowels). Making in the article how to make round dowels.
Here we restrict ourselves to the manufacture of the main flat spike, using a circular saw.

When making a strapping of a wooden door, spikes are required on horizontal bars. If the tenoning machine is not available, then the tenons can be drunk on any milling machine or Circular. Only for circulars will you have to make a special emphasis, so that the part is strictly vertical during processing.

First, we mark the part along the length with spikes. To do this, subtract two widths of vertical bars from the width of the door and add two lengths of the thorn.
In this case, the length of the studs is 60 mm. It may be slightly less or more, but this length is just right for the door.

With a door width of 700 mm. And the width of the canvases is 110 mm. The length of the lintel is 480 mm. Plus two studs 60 mm each. Total workpiece length 600 mm.
The thickness may also differ, here the thickness of the parts is 40 mm.

Spikes on Circulars.

We mark and trim the part along a length of 600 mm. Now we need a variable height circular saw. The photo shows the usual inexpensive “Corvette”, but the model does not matter. We set the saw height to 12 mm. And the guide fence to 60 mm. According to the external divorce.

We saw through the part across from all sides and from each end, so we get the shoulders of the thorn. By the way, this part of the work can be done with a hacksaw.

The most important thing is to accurately cut the thorns in thickness. I have a 15.5 mm slotting drill. Gives a socket 16 mm wide. Accordingly we need spikes 16 mm thick.
The milling cutter in the photo is homemade, a table with a vertical shaft, carriages are available. Therefore, I cut out the thorns with a circular saw installed on Fraser. The saw gives a load less than the cutters and you can handle the parts by holding them with your hands. How to make a device for working with a hand-held circular saw, homemade trimming.

What is worth Pay attention, it is desirable that the thorn goes on the stop.
In this case, everything is simple, the spike rests on the shaft. The width of the saw to the shaft, I have about 58 mm. Which is just right for the job. If there is a stop, then saw through the thorn not reaching the shoulders 3-5 mm. Then cut with a chisel.

We expose dust at a height of 12 mm. On the upper divorce and we pass the first thorn, checking it on the socket. The spike should fit into the socket tightly, but loosen with your hands.

When the saw is precisely aligned, it drives all the thorns of the set, immediately cutting out the thorns in thickness and width. If necessary, the spikes are worked with a chisel, the planes are leveled, the ends and side edges are rounded. Round tenons. dowels. are also used to assemble joinery. For hammering nests at home, a homemade drill attachment can be useful.

Thorns with a hand router.

Assembly of tables, coffee tables, chairs, doors and cabinet sides, it is also better to do on thorns.

Furniture spikes can also be made using a hand router. First, we mark the part, taking into account the required length of the spikes. Then we cut on the shoulders with circulars or a hacksaw. We put the part on the desktop and fix it with clamps.

At a short distance, but across the workpiece, we install a bar of exactly the same thickness and also pull it with clamps to the working table.

We put an end mill “barrel” on the hand router, adjust the height and carefully milling the plane of the spike. The main thing here is to set up the router so that after passing the spike on both sides to get the exact thickness of the spike. And after setting it drives all other parts of the same thickness.

Such tenon cuts are usually made on the basis of a milling table or circular saw. But, of course, options are also possible. depending on the invention of the master. on a band saw, a jigsaw, but even on a chainsaw!
I did not become original and made a device for cutting a straight box tenon for my milling table (more about it here: http: //littlehobby.com/15082.html).
Sometimes they use bearings and different guides to facilitate sliding, but I decided to do without them. The only condition is that the opposite edges of the table must be parallel. To do this, you can walk over them with a router with an emphasis on the other edge.

The first step is to cut out the base of the future tenon cutter from plywood. The dimensions of this base depend on the table itself. it should be wider than the table by the width of the side stops. I took the stops about 4 cm. The length of the stops should be the same or slightly less than the width of the table. then they will not wedge. I glued all the details of the tenon cutter with wood glue and fixed it with self-tapping screws. perhaps excessively, but I wanted it so.

All screw heads are recessed.

To find the correct position of the second stop, put the workpiece with the first stop installed on the table, resting it (first stop) on the edge of the table, apply glue to the second stop.

And having laid between the second stop and the edge of the letter of paper We fix it (the second stop) in this position with clamps. The gap, which remains thanks to the paper, will be ideal for the tenon cutter to move freely along the edges of the table and at the same time NOT dangle.

Then we pull it in with self-tapping screws.

For purely aesthetic reasons, trimming the edge so that the stops are flush with the main part.

The carriage for our tenon cutter is ready

Further, a stop will be installed on this carriage, which can be adjusted and which must always be perpendicular to the direction of movement of the carriage. In order not to check this perpendicularity every time, I made a ledge on the edge of the carriage with correct angles.

On the same ledge, using an M8 bolt, I installed a handle from the adjustment mechanism of an office chair.

The handle is located exactly in the middle between the stops. this is another degree of protection against blockage of the carriage. The handle is quite grippy and reliable. It also provides a safe position for the right hand. It is convenient to use it.

Then I installed a stop on the carriage

The stop is fixed with two M10 recessed head bolts and wing nuts. The stop can move along the ledge with a handle in both directions.

It is important that the plane of the stop is perpendicular to the plane of the carriage.

The carriage is made of 18 mm FSF plywood. I am sure many are now choking. where is such a thickness, this is some kind of monster! Well, yes, it could have been made thinner, but I like things with excess strength where possible. This is my trick.
Therefore, I had to buy a special cutter. All characteristics and part numbers are visible in the photo.

Then everything is simple: set the cutter height and Milling carriage and stop. Then move the stop to the cutter size.

Insert the pin into the gutter that has turned out to be. I made it from 6 mm PCB.

The device is ready. The design is quite simple, I talked longer than I did))

The first launch showed that, in general, the device works, but requires configuration

The height of the cutter and the width of the tenon require careful adjustment. After a while, it began to turn out.

Details are more convenient to process in batches. at least two. At the same time, the external parts do NOT have a sweet tooth. the straight cutter mercilessly tears out of them not just individual fibers, but whole layers. Therefore, the details must be processed, covering them on both sides with unnecessary bars.

How To Make A Thorn On A Circular

See what happened to the parts that were external in the package. I don’t know how in magazines and in commercials they manage to process parts one by one. You can use spiral cutters. maybe this will solve the problem, but usually they are many times more expensive than straight cutters.

Therefore, we simply cover the workpieces on both sides and get an excellent result. Here you still need to NOT overlook which side and in what sequence to process the details so that they then fold into a product.

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In general, the result is not bad. These were test bars, but since it worked out well, I decided to prove the case to the end and make a box.

Carved the bottom of the box into circular dust

And here one more nuance came out. for grinding the protruding thorns, the device for cutting a straight box thorn should be equipped with a belt sander or a disc grinder or something like that. The eccentric sander does NOT do the filling of edges. Otherwise, I’m happy with the purchase. it works as it should.

Make Profiles on Circulars

There is even such a way to update old furniture from chipboard, just add cornices, replace old doors with wooden ones and you will get a completely different design.

What we are actually talking about, we can get a deep concave profile using only a conventional circular saw. The only condition is that the saw must be adjustable in height and preferably in the angle of inclination.

This idea is not so new, if necessary, on Circulars, craftsmen make panels, even with curly edges. They also make profile bars (baguettes) for frames, an article on how to make a frame out of wood.
The easiest way is to make NOT a too wide and deep veined groove, for this it is enough to put the guide ruler of the circular at an angle to the gaze disc.
If we are talking about a fairly wide profile, then you need to prepare for work in advance.

Any saw will work in principle, but it is better to use a disc with 60-80 teeth.
Sharpening for cross cutting or universal. The sharper the saw and the smaller the teeth, the cleaner the surface will be and the less time it will take to grind.
Of course, you will have to do everything early, the cutter in this sense works much cleaner.

We need to prepare two even planed boards, no less than the diagonal of the circular table. You will also need clamps to fix the guides.
First, we expose the dust in height, that is, the depth of the profile. Then with tape we mark the strips at the entrance and exit of the saw, the guides should NOT cover this marking.

Next, you need to decide what width of the moldings you plan to make. For this width, select the angle of the guide bar in relation to the gaze disc.
We put a block on one side of the blade and measure the width with a ruler to the second edge of the saw. In this case, be sure to Take into account the areas along the edges of the saw, which we marked with tape.

When the desired profile width is selected, fix the guide ruler to the table with clamps.
When milling in this way, the load on the saw and the workpiece is large, the part will leave, and it is dangerous to work.
Therefore, on the other side of the saw, Install a second guide fence, strictly parallel to the first. Spacing between guides along the width of your workpiece.

For permanent work, it is better to assemble the double ruler separately. Two long rails are bolted together with two cross bars of the same length.
If necessary, the width of the interval is adjusted, the structure moves and spreads like a parallelogram, and the guides remain parallel to each other.

Whatever the saw, do not try to go through the parts at once to the full depth. It is best to do this in several passes, gradually raising the saw blade above the table. There is no need to rush, carefully pass the profile presses the workpiece to the table. Make the last pass 1 mm. And slowly, so that the surface is cleaner.

It is unlikely that a profile can be cut with a machine; for a high-quality finish, it is better to prepare a profile from a piece of foam plastic that matches the molding. You can use a thick sponge rolled into a roll. Fasten the skin, first large # 20-25, then small # 10-12. Close to the subject, hand sanding wood products.

Tenon cutter base

An old homemade saw stop came in handy as the base of the thorn cutting device.

On the sides of the stop, I installed vertical posts made of larch, which I additionally reinforced for rigidity with side plates. I pre-pressed the bearings into the racks under the driving pin. Stud used with M14 thread and 1.75 mm pitch.

Moving along the hairpin is done using a wooden block in which a long nut is hidden. Using a shorter nut may cause the unit to skew while driving.

With your own hands. How to do it yourself. Support board

The blanks of the boxes in my design are fastened with clamps to the support board. To make it last longer and NOT wrinkle from the clamps, for its manufacture I used a larch decking board, which I leveled with a Thicknesser.

At first, I planned to make the resistances with a single board, but it would require a lock on the bottom and, in addition, the bottom edge would be damaged by the saw when cutting the thorns. If I raised the support board above the level of the spikes, then there would be a problem of chips on the workpieces, especially from plywood. Therefore, I made the support board in two parts.

The lower, narrower and shorter part of the support board is rigidly attached to the stop of the tenon cutter base, and the upper part is left movable. It is moved by means of a wooden block with a nut and a pin along the groove in the bottom of the support board.

In the lower part I installed a replaceable anti-splinter pad made of MDF. I installed a side stop on the movable part of the support board. strictly perpendicular to both the board and the base plate. Then I attached a block to the edge of the base as an additional attachment and made a cut in the base for the disc to pass.

For safety, in the front part, where the disc comes out, glued a protective block. On the sides of this bar there is a place where the handles will be installed for the convenience of moving the tenon cutter along the saw table skids.

To control the position of the disk, I installed two pointers. The first shows when the backing board is set to the “zero” position, that is, when the disc is in close contact with its plane with the side stop. The second helps to count the revolutions when the stud rotates. As a second counter, I used a wooden “barrel”, rigidly fixed to a pin, on which I put a risk in 1/4 turn increments.

To ensure faster performance, I used a sandwich of two identical discs and spacers between them. There are special kits for setting the exact width of the groove, but they are expensive, and I have such a comment. To get the gasket of the right thickness, I cut out a duralumin washer with a thickness slightly less than necessary and brought it to the desired size using self-adhesive aluminum tape. I would like to point out that it is better to use new identical discs. I had one new, and the second was already a little used, as a result, when cutting, a small step appears at the base of the spike.

After a lot of trials and adjustments, I got a “sandwich” with a cutting width of 5.25 mm, which corresponds to 3 turns of the stud (1.75 mm x 3 = 5.25 mm). This made it possible to make 5.25 mm cleats by turning the pin 6 full turns between cuts. If it was necessary to make larger spikes, then the number of revolutions proportionally increased.

Tenon cutter ready to work.

How to cut thorns on Circulars with your own hands (tenon cutter). How to do something yourself, with your own hands. Home master’s site. Cutting thorns on circular dust. do-it-yourself “tenon cutter

Once I needed to make many boxes of different sizes from plywood. As you know, plywood does not like fastening with self-tapping screws to the end and often splits from this.

I had a tenon cutter for a router, but it had low productivity, and besides, when using low-quality plywood, the cutters quickly became dull.

And the sharpening of the cutter gradually changes its diameter, and it becomes impossible to work with it on the tenon cutter. Therefore, the task was set to create a new, more powerful tool with the ability to cut thorns immediately in a pack of blanks to speed up work.

To solve this problem, I used a stationary circular saw, for which I made a special device. I make the grooves with a block of disks, and the accuracy of movement is ensured by a stud, in which there is a fixed thread pitch. I’ll tell you how I made this device.

Additional refinement of the tenon cutter

On this, the manufacture of tenon cutters could have been completed. However, after a short operation, several shortcomings in its work were discovered.

Firstly, counting a large number of revolutions is NOT convenient. you can easily get lost. Secondly, if an incomplete rotation of the stud was required, then the Counting became even more difficult, and the accuracy dropped. Thirdly, since the gap between the pin and the moving support board did NOT allow the handle to be rotated normally, it had to be brought out to the right to the maximum, and this protruding long part of the pin made the device not very comfortable.

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To remedy these shortcomings, I decided to mount the “reducer” on a pin of two gears at right angles to each other. The size of the gears was selected so that in one revolution of the driving gear, the pin makes 3 revolutions. The most affordable option for me was to make gears from wood, so I used 13 mm birch plywood as the material.

I got the drawings of the gears using the Matthias Wandeley gear generator, which can be found on his website. Then I pasted the printouts on plywood and cut out the gears with a band saw.

The gears were cut at an 11-degree angle to ensure good engagement. over, different sides of the tooth were cut accordingly with an inclination in different directions. My band saw allows you to tilt the table only in one direction, so I did not use the tilt of her table, but made an inclined base and attached it with a clamp to the saw table. First, I cut out the left sides of the teeth while tilting to the right, and then I turned the stop and cut out the right sides. I connected both cuts at the base with a hand jigsaw.

After that, I sanded each tooth and drilled a center hole.

The gear works only with the upper parts of the teeth, so I did not carefully process their lower parts.

Installation of the “reducer”. First, I cut off part of the right pillar with a hand hacksaw and tried to install a furniture nut to fasten the drive gear. However, this option turned out to be a failure. Due to the bearing installed in the rack, it was NOT possible to secure the nut tightly with long self-tapping screws, and the large lever of the drive gear led to strong beats. The idea of ​​simply putting a large gear on the bolt was also bad: for the gear to rotate easily, a little play was needed, and it also caused beats.

I had to press the bearing into the gear, and instead of the furniture nut, I would put a 3 mm thick metal plate with fasteners that went beyond the bearing in the rack. To compensate for the thickness of the metal plate, a recess was made in the gears on the inside.

I installed a handle on the drive gear and numbered the teeth for convenience (a turn by one tooth is equal to 1/4 of a turn of the hairpin). Downstairs on the counter made a counter-risk for accurate positioning. After that, I sawed off the extra piece of the stud and covered the structure with wax for better sliding and protection from moisture and dirt.

By turning the pinion by a different number of revolutions, I get studs of different thicknesses and can even make them uneven.

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Milling cutter for wood “dovetail”

They are most often used in conjunction with milling machines and machines for making grooves in products from hard and soft wood. Manufactured from monolithic hard alloys.

Designed to work in tandem with cylindrical cutters.

The tenon cutter is the simplest and cheapest. Simple box joint jig homemade

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Thorn groove with a hand router

In this article, we will acquaint you with the process of cutting various joints with a hand mill, consider the process of making such additional devices to increase labor productivity as tenoning templates and dovetail cutters.

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How to make a thorn picker

When forming thorns on wooden blanks with a hand mill, it is NOT fixed in space in any way and is brought to the workpiece manually. That is why it is very important that when using a power tool, the workpiece to be processed is in a device that can provide not only its reliable fixation, but also the accuracy of the spikes formed on its surface.

The design of the simplest device that is able to cope with such tasks is:

  • Several fixed guides (bottom, top, side)
  • Movable bar, due to which you can adjust the length of the sample.

Tool no. 1. for removing a thorn

Such a device is made, the dimensions of the components of which are selected individually, in the following sequence:

  • At the edges of the plywood sheet, side vertical elements of the same height are fixed, in the central part of which cutouts are made.
  • On the side elements, guides are installed along which the sole of the hand router will move.
  • To limit the travel of the hand router along the upper guides, the side plates should be fixed on them.
  • On the plywood sheet, which plays the role of the base of the device, it is necessary to install a movable element, with the help of which the overhang of the edge of the workpiece being processed will be regulated. You can use a regular thumb screw or any other suitable fastener to fix it.

When making a device of the proposed design, the following points should be taken into account:

  • The height of the upper guides should correspond to the sum of the thickness of the workpiece and the size of the small gap, which is necessary to install the fixing wedge.
  • The cutouts in the side vertical elements are made of such a width that it takes into account the length of the spike being formed.

Tool No. 2. for grooving

It is possible to work with the introduction of the device of the proposed design with a manual milling cutter of almost any modern model, the option of which provides the ability to adjust the cutting speed, feed and overhang of the working part of the tool used.

To create a dovetail spike on the lateral surface of a bar or board, a device is used, made as follows.

  • A hole is made in the plywood sheet, from which the cutting part of the dovetail cutter will protrude.
  • A hand router is fixed from the bottom of the prepared plywood sheet. To do this, you can use clamps, screws or any other fasteners.
  • A board 2.5 cm thick is fixed on the surface of the plywood sheet, along which the workpiece to be processed will move. It will act as a guiding element. Such a board is a consumable and is used once with a cutter of a certain diameter.

Tool number 3. for milling dovetail

Such a device can be installed between two chairs or use a more convenient and reliable structure to place it.

SHIP. PAZ connection. Spike on circular dust (Circulars)

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Tools used

The creation of spikes and grooves, with the help of which the connection of two wooden blanks will be ensured, assumes that a selection of material is made on the side surface of a bar or board with a hand mill. At the same time, all geometric parameters of the elements of the future connection must be strictly observed.

To carry out this operation with a hand router, you can use tools with shanks with a diameter of both 8 and 12 mm. The most versatile in this case is the slot cutter, the cutting part of which works as follows:

  • The lateral surface forms the groove walls and the lateral sides of the tongue;
  • The end side processes the bottom of the groove and removes a layer of material of the required thickness from the base of the tenon.

Cutting a tenon with a groove cutter

Thus, using a tool of this type, it is possible to form both a spike and a groove on the side surface of a bar or board. over, their sizes can be adjusted within a fairly wide range.

In cases where higher requirements are imposed on the reliability of the connection of wooden parts, grooves and spikes are made NOT of a rectangular shape, but a shape called a “dovetail”. The grooves and tenons of this configuration are created using dovetail cutters. It is also possible to perform the procedure for forming grooves and tenons of this shape with a hand mill, but for THESE purposes, you should use devices of a different design.

Dovetail sampling using a template

So that the question of how to make a groove in the board and the beams or a spike on their lateral surface, and not cause special difficulties, it is better to use a power tool equipped with comfortable side handles, a wide guide sole and the option to protect the spindle from turning during the process of changing the cutter. In addition, it is desirable that such equipment has a side stop, due to which the overhang of the cutter used with it in the kit will always remain constant.