DIY on a single axle tractor with their own hands. with their own hands, muffler, digger, differential, variator, sprayer
Very soon after the acquisition of their own land rises the question of care for him. If its area is not large, you can also do with a cart with hand tools. But it is not always convenient, and not everyone under force. And if the plot is larger in size, then here and do not do without a “helper”. To help many owners come to the rescue of a single–axle tractor. But here again there is a problem: how to expand its functionality? Of course, you can buy in the same stores ready-made factory attachments. The main thing is to have enough money for everything. And there is another option: homemade tools for the power tiller, made by our own hands. A minimum of tools and materials, a little work. and the equipment is ready. The main thing with minimum financial costs. About what and how you can make yourself. further in this article.
What can be made?
The functionality of the power tiller is very wide. Only they depend on the additional devices that are attached to it. Makes for the tiller are a good alternative to the factory mechanisms. The main thing is to have a little imagination and understanding of the case. And you can make almost anything.
You can make the following units for your power tiller with your own hands:
This list can be continued. But it is already clear that the homemade equipment for power tillers can perform all kinds of work on the site.
The whole process of manufacturing units for the motor-block with their own hands can be conditionally divided into several stages. To begin with it is necessary to determine what equipment is necessary and what functions it will perform. For example, if we are talking about a trailer, then depending on the type of work performed, the design can change. Homemade cart for a motor-block can have the ability to unload loads independently. This is very convenient when it comes to bulk transportation of fertilizers, soil, harvested vegetables. In such cases, it is much easier to lift the body and pour everything out than to unload it manually.
Самодельный трактор переломка
The next step is to calculate and make a drawing. At this stage it is important that the single–axle tractor and the resulting equipment can work “in tandem”. This applies to power, size, method of attachment and many other factors.
After preparing the drawing, when the necessary materials and tools are known, you can begin to prepare them. The work will be done faster if everything is prepared in advance. In this case, there will be no need to quit work and go to the store for the missing parts.
And only when all the stages of preparation are passed, you can proceed to the actual fabrication. The construction can take a lot of time and effort. But the result is worth it.
Making a homemade for power tillers, it is important to consider factors that will allow the equipment to work properly. You can not assemble the unit as a neighbor working on a tractor, and connect it to a power tiller. The parameters of the machinery and attachments must be appropriate. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points:
- Power of the power tiller. So, for equipment with a capacity of 4.5 liters. с. will be enough to load 250 kg including the driver. Based on this value, you can calculate the mass of the transported cargo in the trailer, the number of permissible plows and so on.
- The size. A plot of land next to the house, even the largest, is not a field after all. Therefore, surely there will be areas where large equipment will not fit. In addition, large (or, on the contrary, narrow) equipment is not always convenient in the work. It may not pass between trees or, on the contrary, be too narrow for the bed. Such dimensions must be taken into account in advance.
- Provide a node for attaching equipment to the power tiller. It can be articulated, on bushings, bearing. It is necessary to choose it exactly for your equipment.
- The way of attaching the individual parts of the equipment to each other. Whole units can be connected by welding, rivets, bolts. The choice in this case depends on the tool availability, time and abilities.
These are the basic issues that need to be thought through. But not the only ones. There will be many questions and nuances in the process of making a homemade machine for a power tiller, which you will need to think carefully in order to make the right decision.
Making a trailer
One of the most popular homemade trailers is the. It can be considered the most basic unit for working with a power tiller. As already noted, it is necessary to start with the preparation of drawings and calculations. The design may vary depending on desire, imagination and available material.
First of all prepare the frame. A rectangular frame is made, with the necessary insertion of stiffeners. Places are envisaged, to which the elements of the undercarriage and attachment to the motoblock will be attached. The undercarriage is mostly fastened on a self-made hub (a rebar welded to the frame is edged).
Next, the direct attachment of the undercarriage is made. Here can be used a bearing system or an axle, depending on the design of the trailer. In the second case, it is better to make a removable hitch than a welded one. This may be necessary if the axle is repaired (replaced).
It is easier to buy a ready-made hitch. It simply needs to be attached to the trailer. It is usually attached to a piece of metal pipe that is welded to the cart frame.
Next, the body is assembled. Use steel, stainless steel or galvanized. It is important to make stiffeners on the bottom and sides. Provides a place for the driver.
The plow with his own hands
The reality is a homemade plow for the power tiller. Only in this case it is important to find accurate and correct drawings. This will affect the quality of tillage.
The plough blade itself is usually made from 3mm thick steel. It is important to bend it correctly. To do it correctly will help a template from an ordinary metal pipe.
For the stand you take a metal plate with a thickness of at least 10 mm. The degree of plowing is regulated by the position of the stand on the bracket. The angle of plowing is chosen by tilting the power tiller. An adjusting screw can be used for this purpose.
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Reducing the noise of the machine
Even the most modern and expensive power tillers make a lot of noise when working, especially at higher speeds. This factor is very tiring for the operator and can be a reason for worsening relations with the neighbors. A homemade muffler will help to solve the problem. This is a task that is within the reach of any craftsman with basic experience in working with iron.
To make a muffler for a power tiller with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
- tape measure;
- welding machine;
- angle grinder;
- electric drill;
- aluminum clamp;
- Stainless steel with a thickness of 2 mm;
- metal shavings.
Once you have everything you need, you can start improving your exhaust system.
It is done in this sequence:
- Using stainless steel, make 2 oval-shaped tubes. The diameter of the tubes should differ by 1-1,5 cm. Seal the pipe joints with a welding machine.
- Make the maximum number of 8 mm holes in the smaller diameter pipe. Wrap it with metal shavings. Wrap the shavings with steel wire.
- Insert the smaller pipe into the larger one. Fix them in position by means of steel bars and welding.
- Clip the muffler to the exhaust pipe and secure with a clamp.
The noise level after such an improvement will be reduced by several times. The service life of the homemade muffler will be at least 5 years. In this way, being content with little, you can significantly improve the conditions for agricultural and other work using the power tiller.
Reducing the noise from the machine
Even the most modern and expensive motocultivators make a lot of noise during operation, especially at higher revolutions. This factor strongly fatigues the operator and can be a reason for deterioration of relations with the neighbors. The problem can be solved with a self-made muffler. This is a task that can be performed by any master who has initial skills with iron.
To make a muffler for a power tiller with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
- tape measure;
- welding machine;
- angle grinder;
- An electric drill;
- aluminum clamp;
- stainless steel 2 mm thick;
- metal shavings.
Having collected everything you need, you can begin to improve the exhaust system.
This is done in this sequence:
- Make two oval tubes from stainless steel. The diameter of the tubes must differ by 1-1,5 cm. Clip the joints together with a welder.
- Make as many 8mm holes as possible in the smaller diameter pipe. Wrap metal shavings around it. Wrap a piece of steel wire around the pipe.
- Insert the smaller pipe in the larger one. Fix them in position by using steel bars and welding.
- Attach the muffler to the exhaust pipe and secure it with a clamp.
The noise level will be reduced by several times after such an improvement. The service life of the homemade muffler will be at least 5 years. You can do a lot to improve your agricultural and other work with your power tiller.
If there is a definite problem with the electronic part, you should see a “Service required” message on the monitor on the dashboard. The same monitor should also show “Slow down” if the liquid temperature has exceeded the standard value. For self-diagnosis you can use the program from Google Play CVTz50
For exact definition of failures and their independent elimination special diagnostics is required which is carried out with the help of special equipment. Many malfunctions have their own code through which they are identified:
- – Sensor malfunctions;
- – Low or high pressure in the pulley;
- – ECU malfunction;
- – Failure of stepper motor, line and valves.
When performing diagnostics, remember that the cause of variator malfunction is not limited to a specific component failure. Often the cause of a variator gearbox malfunction is due to damaged wiring or some connector. Or it can be caused by the CVT malfunctioning.
There are also situations in which, if a malfunction is detected, the variator control system is automatically put into a special mode. The difference between the special mode and the normal mode is that there is a fixed gear ratio.
If the CVT failure is concentrated in the mechanical part, a number of measures will be needed to identify it:
Variator box repair with your own hands
One of the tools you will need when disassembling the variator is a smartphone. To prevent any “extra” parts from being left behind after repair, photographs must be taken of each stage of the disassembly before the next part is removed. Wires to disconnect, bolts to unscrew. Arrange the removed parts on the table according to the order of disassembly.
Order of disassembly of the variator for repair with your own hands:
- Remove the cover. First the first part, then take out the shaft and remove the second part, take out the gears that are under it;
- Remove the oil pump. First unscrew the screws that hold its housing in place, then remove the pump gear, the chain, remove the cover and remove the pump shaft;
- On the reverse side of the variator, remove the cover, tighten the belt with clamps and take it out along with the pulleys. Remove the clamps from the belt and remove it from the pulleys.
Examine the parts of the variator for wear and tear. This applies primarily to the belt, pulley cones and bearings.
Video “Repair and disassembly of the variator
Self-made loader from power tiller
Loader from a power tiller. a useful thing in the economy. Buy a ready-made loader. very expensive, it is necessary only if you have constant work with the transportation of goods, clearing the area, etc.д. Mostly loaders in the household are used for snow removal and transportation of various goods, so cheaper and more rational to make the loader with their own hands.
Skilled craftsmen are constantly inventing new versions of this equipment, so there are many modifications, among which there is a suitable option for everyone. Loader can be assembled from special parts, and you can use what many lies in the garages. The parts from old cars and motorcycles will do.
A single–axle tractor must be equipped with a powerful motor. The heavier the load, the more powerful the machine should be. Even power tillers with 15hp engines.с. lift no more than 250 kg. The presence of a counterweight is a must.
The drawings of a mini-tractor can be taken as a basis. The frame is made from a channel, the breaking assembly. a cam from VAZ, steering column and shortened axles from any car, P40 hydraulic distributor, the bucket can be made independently, and you can use a ready-made.
VARIATOR ON A SNOWMOBILE
Creating a power transmission. the main challenge facing each designer motoronarts. How rationally will be carried out transmission of torque from the crankshaft engine to the drive wheel (drum) track, depends on the traction properties of the machine. The total transmission ratio: engine. driving wheel of the propulsor, sufficient to ensure the cross-country ability in the most difficult road conditions, as calculations have shown, should be 1 ÷ 10.
The power train is divided into two independent sections. The first makes it possible to change the transmission ratio between the motor and the intermediate shaft. This unit is usually either a motorcycle gearbox or the most practical design, a V-belt variator. Fig. 1. Diagram of the power transmission of a motorized cart: 1. track belt, 2. snowplow, 3. lining on the inside of the belt, 4. driven sprocket of the board gear chain, 5. parasitic sprocket, 6. chain of the board gear, 7. drive shaft, 8. drive wheel of the track, 9. pinion sprocket, 10. variator shaft, 11. idler pulley spring support, 12. guide pin, 13. movable disk of idler pulley, 14. variator fixed disk, 15. V-belt, 16. driving pulley of variator, 17. drum of shoe brake, 18. moving disk of driving pulley of variator, 19. brake pedal, 20. engine shaft, 21. engine, 22. carburetor, 23. magneto, 24. engine crankcase, 25. engine exhaust pipe, 26. weights of automatic adjustment, 27. spring of moving brackets of rollers, 28. moving brackets, 29. roller. The second part of the power train has a fixed transmission ratio. It is almost the same for all types of motoring cars. With these machines, which have much less inertia than a motorcycle, gear shifting is usually accompanied by jerking and is the main cause of chain breaking.
Variator. which is a continuously variable speed gearbox, changes the transmission ratio between drive shaft and idler shaft smoothly, automatically (without interference from the driver), depending on the load applied to the track. Fig. 2. V-belt variator scheme: A. no-load position, B. maximum speed position. 1. variator drive pulley, 2. ball bearing, 3. V-belt, 4. variator idle pulley. A variator consists of a driving pulley and a driven pulley which are connected by a V-belt that transmits power through friction. Each pulley includes a stationary and axially movable discs. Depending on the engine speed the discs, thanks to the automatic regulation mechanism, move relative to each other in such a way that the necessary transmission ratio is maintained at a given load.
At higher engine speeds the drive pulley discs are compressed and the V-belt between them changes to a larger diameter.
The variator drive pulley is mounted on the output end of the engine crankshaft and is secured to the cone shank of the engine with a key that transmits the torque from the engine. The pulley is tightened on the cone by a torque bolt. It also consists of two discs as well as an idler bearing (see “The movable disc moves axially on the shank of the fixed disc”). Fig. 2) and automatic control mechanism. The movable disc runs axially over the splines of the stationary disc shank. Fig. 3. Design diagram of the variator drive pulley: A. position of idling, B. position of maximum gear. 1. cup centrifugal regulator, 2. bracket, 3. axis weights, 4. weight, 5. thrust flange of the movable pulley, 6. spring guide, 7. spring, 8. bolt, 9. hexagonal socket, 10. stop cup, 11. slotted shank, 12. sliding disk, 13. fixed disk, 14. V-belt, 15. ball bearing outer cage, 16. inner cage, 17. engine crankshaft shank, 18. spring guide, 19. fixed disk mounting key, 20. engine. Their relative position is regulated by weights hinged on bracket axles, welded to the housing. A cylindrical spring always tends to move the drive pulley disks apart and balances the axial thrust arising from the centrifugal forces of the weights when the machine rotates.
Application of a variable speed drive in machine tools
An alternative for the operation of machine tools is a homemade variator for machine tools. Its disadvantage is that the belt slips, but it also protects the motor when the workpiece wedges. Specialists, having considered the homemade variator, came to the conclusion that, despite the existing disadvantages, it increases the productivity of work, it is not necessary to turn off the machine, and the speed is regulated smoothly.
- We make the cones, hardwood can be used. They are sawed out with an electric jigsaw, with an angle of inclination equal to the angle of the cone.
- The wooden cones should be placed on the metal rods and fixed with screws as deep as possible.
- With the help of rollers a guide is made, which gives the belt to walk along the cones and fix it at the desired speed. If there are no rollers, for this operation the required size bearings are used.
- With the help of a threaded rod and a rotating screw, the guide moves along the cones.
So, let’s see how to make a variator with his hands. The cones are made from wood (preferably hardwood), and to make them, it is not necessary to have a lathe. The cone can be assembled from separate disks sawed out with a jigsaw at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the cone, and to saw out such a disk is not necessary to have an electric jigsaw, it can be done and with an ordinary jigsaw.
It is desirable that the cones be set as deeply as possible on metal rods. On the rods the cones are fixed with screws.
The guide moves along the cones by moving the nut, which is screwed onto the freewheeling screw or threaded rod. To prevent the screw (threaded rod) from moving along the cones, two washers should be screwed onto the end of the screw and tightened relative to each other (in the case of the threaded rod, this should be done on both ends). The guide nut can either be soldered or glued. Rollers are part of furniture fittings.
The handle may not be soldered, but clamped between the nuts if there is a hole in the center of the plate. The handle is of course also made of wood.
When working on a lathe, there is very often a need for different speeds of rotation of the workpiece. This is because different operations require different speeds. Because of this, lathes, and not only, are equipped with a whole group of pulleys.
These pulleys, in turn, allow you to change the speed of rotation of the workpieces, throwing the belt transmission to a certain point. This has some disadvantages, associated with the fact that the machine must necessarily stop, and so on. Therefore, as an option to solve the problem, we suggest you make a homemade variator for the machine.
Now that the cones are ready, they need to be seated on metal rods. And you need to put it as deep and strong as possible. Once you have set the cone on the rod in its final position, do not forget to fix them with screws.
Also, you can take ordinary ball bearings as rollers. Even if they are not wide enough, two, three or more bearings can be installed, depending on what size they are, and what size the track on which they will travel.
Once the guide is ready, it should be moved along the cones by moving the nut. In turn, this nut is screwed on a rotating screw (and freely rotating), or a threaded rod. But, in order to prevent the screw from moving along our cones, two washers are screwed onto its end, which are tightened relative to themselves.
Peterbilt 579 single axle: Owner operator spotlight
It is also necessary to make a handle that will rotate the screw. Here, you can do it as your experience tells you, but as an example here is a picture with the execution of such a handle.
In this case, the knob does not have to be soldered. It is enough to clamp it between the nuts, of course, if there is a hole in the center of this plate.
A reminder that stable and normal running of the variator is only possible with a round section belt. Therefore, do not miss important details, and proceed to make a homemade variator with imagination, experimenting on this or that solution.