Wheels for a power tiller: overview of types, how to make their own hands
Choosing a single-axle tractor for their homestead, users pay attention to the technological characteristics of its mechanism, such as power and weight. Few people are interested in what wheels are installed on it, because the quality of work and duration of operation depend on the mechanism.
The standard wheels included in the package are good for working on soft ground. In difficult conditions, they quickly fail, and new ones are quite expensive. Our article will tell you how to make the wheels for a power tiller with your own hands.
Wheels on a single axle tractor with their own hands
and more gardeners-owners of motor blocks make their own hands changes to the running gear of their units. This makes it possible to increase the cross-country ability of the cultivator, adapt it to all kinds of soils, successfully expand the track and many other things, which are not always included in the capabilities of the factory set.
Motor cultivator “Neva”
Wheels for power tillers are of the following types:
- pneumatic, used for plowing and removing roots from the soil, as well as for transporting the cultivator. Often, instead of the factory narrow ones, they are installed from “Zhiguli”, “Oka” and “Moskvich” cars;
- Metal or gruntozatsepy are ideal for clay soil, as they have steel teeth, providing excellent passability in soft soil;
- Solid rubber tires are also installed on mini-tractors, thanks to the aggressive tread pattern they have an increased cross-country capability;
- Supporting. as a rule, it is one supporting wheel, which takes the entire load of the engine;
- twin, helping to increase cross-country ability on difficult terrain and significantly increase speed.
Types of wheels for Moto-Blocks
Each single-axle tractor is a multi-tasking agricultural unit. Its design must be as balanced as possible, otherwise the machine will not be able to cope with the work for which it is designed. The wheels play a special role in the design of a power tiller.
Depending on its features, the wheels on a single-axle tractor can be of these types:
Each type of wheel for power tillers is suitable for different tasks. By using some or other elements of the agricultural machine’s movement, its owner gets the opportunity to increase the machine’s productivity and make it more stable.
Characteristics of Moto-Blocks
A single-axle tractor is a type of small tractor with a single-axle chassis. It is often used in small farms, homesteads and summer cottages. This versatile machine helps with a variety of agricultural tasks related to tillage, planting tubers or seeds, mowing grass, shoveling snow, hauling supplies, etc. д. During work, the unit is held by the special handles and controlled by following the unit.
The first prototypes of modern power tillers appeared about 100 years ago. Nowadays a lot of different models are produced, differing by their construction, engine power and configuration.
Let’s see the main technical characteristics of the devices in the table:
| Variety | Weight, kg | Power, l. с. | Working width, cm | Processing area |
| Ultra light | Approximately 20 | 3-3,5 | 60 | Up to 20 acres |
| Light | Not more than 40 | 3-5 | 80 | Up to 60 hectares |
| Medium | 40-60 | 5-6 | 90 | Up to 1 ha |
| Heavy | Over 60-70 | than 6 | 100 | 1-4 ha |
Different models come with additional equipment to allow for plowing, planting, hoeing, harvesting, etc. д. Potatoes are usually cultivated with a potato planter, hoe, plow.
The machines can operate on gasoline or diesel fuel. Diesel mowers are generally not as powerful, but are more economical than petrol mowers.
In order to choose the right model, it is necessary to consider several factors at once: the area to be processed, the possibility of using additional equipment, the weight of the unit, power, cost.
Structure
Basic units used to create a 4×4 all-terrain vehicle, in addition to the motoblock itself, are represented by such components:
- The frame, which will be the basis of the unit;
- Rear axle, for the installation of a second pair of wheels;
- a seat for the driver;
- Lights enabling safe travel at night.
Such units are means of transportation designed for one person. The average carrying capacity of motorized vehicles is approximately 200 kilograms. The width of the chassis is determined by the required stability before overturning, but it is desirable to make it not less than 1.1 meters. Among power tillers with an engine it is desirable to use units. “Neva,” maybe others with 10 horsepower or more. Such power characteristics are enough to travel faster than 10 km/h. It is in the course of travel on slushy or slippery ground drops to 2-3 km / h.
Step-by-step instructions for making a self-made all-terrain vehicle
After the assembly proceed to the field tests of the self-assembled unit, the success of which is a prerequisite for full operation.
Self-made
Of course, it is impossible to completely assemble these parts with your own hands. In any case you have to buy the axle. All the parts are mounted on a ready-made base, which can be bought in a store.
Car or motorcycle pairs can be used as a base. Only the lifting eye parts can be made by hand, since weighting parts are very rarely used and there is no point in buying high-priced parts.
To make a single-axle tractor convenient for work, you need to properly debug all of its parts, including making the wheel axle the right length. Special extensions are used for this. It is also possible to assemble coupled parts from iron, inside of which there is an inner cavity. It is in it that the weighting agent is placed.
Naturally, they are not suitable for a trailer, but they can be used in the unit itself for mounting the wheels from the car.
The advantages that the paired parts have:
- Reduced slippage time and increased productivity of the product.
- Ability to quickly remove and change parts.
- Easy to assemble with your own hands.
- Excellent grip on the surface.
It is because of these properties with twin wheels are becoming increasingly popular with farmers. These, too, can be made by our own hands. Of course, the parts are rough, but they work well and for a long time, which is important for difficult agricultural conditions. The process is as follows:
- The first step is to select the wheels with tires.
- Next, the treads are made more embossed by creating a pattern on them.
- Then a weighting agent is inserted into the rim. To do this, the steel strip is cut into squares and welded blanks into a single structure.
- Fasten the second rim to make the mechanism as strong as possible.
- Finally, the tires are put on, and the structure is ready to work.
In general, to make such devices is not difficult, you only need to choose the right parts and fit them to the size.
Recently, there has been a great demand among buyers for pneumatic wheels, which are excellent for a power tiller. They are made of medium-hard rubber, and they are quite expensive. Therefore, it is worth thinking about self-equipment of the unit.
What tools do you need?
Self-made snowmobile is used for sports, hiking, household chores. After determining the purpose of the unit, the basic scheme can be slightly modified.
It is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials for work:
- apparatus for manual welding;
- a special mask and gloves;
- angle grinder;
- hacksaw for metal;
- A set of files;
- pipe bender;
- frame pipes;
- brackets, clamps and other fasteners;
- small parts;
- drill;
- wrenches;
- clamps;
- vise;
- wheels.
To save money, many parts and spare parts are made by yourself. To better imagine for yourself the design of self-made, you can use the advice of acquaintances with experience, ready-made schemes, special literature, drawings, photographs.
The dimensions of parts must be calculated with particular precision. It is very important to study the drawings. With their help, the order of assembling elements of the snowmobile is determined.
Look at the video, which shows a self-propelled machine created on the basis of a power tiller.
Making a snowmobile with their own hands
If you follow a certain algorithm for assembling a homemade motorcycle apparatus, you can avoid many mistakes. The snowmobile technique from a power tiller should be assembled in a certain sequence. Let’s consider step by step the process of making a snowmobile from motor-block “Neva.
First, a sketch of the future construction is made:
- homemade frame (1);
- second sprocket of the intermediate shaft (2)
- intermediate shaft (3)
- the first sprocket of the intermediate shaft (4);
- idler sprocket of the track shaft (5);
- track drive sprocket (6);
- The drive shaft of the track (7);
- two supports of the supporting ski (8);
- two tensioning rollers of the track (9);
- The axle of the tensioning rollers (10);
- towbar (11);
- tensioning device (12);
- four drum flanges (13);
- four flanges of the drive sprocket (14);
- steering rack (15).
Re-welding the frame
To begin with, it is necessary to weld the frame. Steel plates and round pipes are used for this. To shape the parts using a pipe bender, before heating the metal with a gas burner. Join the parts together by welding. The frame is then painted to prevent metal corrosion and to ensure a longer service life.
First it is necessary to study the scheme of design, drawings of a rover or snowmobile attachment to a power tiller. The transport assembled by your own hands should be operable. Usually the circuit consists of a slave part and a master part.
The slave part includes the following elements:
The elements that make up the leading part: the frame, the power unit and the drive. After studying the drawing, weld the frame. Tubes are given the necessary shape. This is done with a pipe bender.
To exclude errors in the creation of the frame, the initial fixing of elements, it is desirable to carry out with the help of spot welding. If there are any errors, this connection is easier to correct. After all the inaccuracies are corrected, the structure is welded together with a non-breaking seam.
To the resulting frame you need to weld brackets that will mount the engine, seats and steering column. Old armchairs can be used as seats. A bicycle handlebar will also come in handy.
Two skis are used as runners, which are connected to the steering column by pivots.
Two skis are used as runners, connected to the steering column by hinges. The bolts are pivoting bushings. With regular lubrication they can be used for a long time.
On the leading part of the construction you need to mount the engine together with the gearbox. The future snowmobile can be made wheeled, then increasing its maneuverability, but reduced flotation, especially if the snow is loose.
Caterpillar suspension increases cross-country capability, but reduces maneuverability.
Designing the suspension
The shock-absorbing system for snowmobiling machinery consists of front and rear suspensions. These are designed to provide the smoothest possible ride, so you won’t feel any vibrations as you ride over bumps and ruts.
The telescopic suspension is one of the most common and simple designs. It consists of a shock absorber and spring, which are in the rack. That’s why the suspension smooths out shock-type vibrations. As a rule, the technique with its use shows decent maneuverability.
In order to make the rear and front suspensions independent, it is necessary to connect the spars with a strut and a steering bushing. With this option, the smoothness of movement is ensured. For the front suspension you can also use regular shock absorbers from a motorcycle.
Making wheels
Installing the wheels. On snowmobiles are usually used cameras from a truck. By means of a hub, they are attached to the suspension. With such wheels it is easy to steer and safe to drive. To make it, you need to put chains on the cameras for winter riding. Then the chambers need to be inflated, the chains put on will turn them into circles with a ribbed surface.
There’s another way. Two discs made of metal are connected to each other, then attached to the hub, and then the camera is put on them, which is fixed with pieces of conveyor belt. To protect the camera you can use a tire protector.
Electronics
The easiest way to make lighting is to use the “native” electric generator. Manufacturers of motor vehicles provide for such a possibility and put electric generators with power reserve. Therefore, there is enough energy to power additional electrical equipment: a direction indicator, a headlight, a horn.
Making a snowmobile with our own hands
By following a certain algorithm for assembling a homemade motor unit, you can avoid many mistakes. Snowmobile equipment from a power block must be assembled in a certain sequence. Let’s consider step by step the process of making a snowmobile from the motor block “Neva”.
First, a sketch of the future construction is made:
- homemade frame (1);
- The second sprocket of the intermediate shaft (2);
- intermediate shaft (3)
- the first sprocket of the intermediate shaft (4);
- idler sprocket of the track shaft (5);
- the track drive sprocket (6);
- drive shaft of the track (7);
- two struts of the supporting ski (8);
- two track idler rollers (9);
- tensioner rollers axle (10);
- towbar (11);
- tensioner (12);
- four drum flanges (13);
- four drive sprocket flanges (14);
- steering rack (15).
Overwelding the frame
First of all we need to weld the frame. steel plates and round pipes are used for this. Use a pipe bender to give the parts a certain shape, before this heat the metal with a gas burner. Connect the parts to each other by welding. The frame is then painted so that the metal will not corrode and last longer.
First it is necessary to study the scheme of construction, drawings of a rover or snowmobile attachment to a motor block. The transport assembled by your own hands must be operational. The diagram usually consists of a driven part and a driven part.
The slave train is made up of the following components:
Elements that make up the driving part: the frame, the power unit, and the drive. After studying the drawing, weld the frame. Pipes are given the necessary shape. This is done using a pipe bender.
To avoid errors when building the frame, it is desirable to carry out the initial fixing of elements by means of spot welding. If errors are found, such a connection is easier to correct. After all the inaccuracies are eliminated, the structure is welded together with a non-breaking seam.
To the resulting frame you need to weld brackets, which will mount the engine, seats and steering column. Old armchairs can be used as seats. A steering wheel from a bicycle will also come in handy.
Two skis are used as runners, which are connected to the steering head with pivots.
Two skis are used as skids, connected to the steering column by pivots. Bolts are pivoting bushings. With regular lubrication they last quite a long time.
On the leading part of the design you need to mount the engine along with the gearbox. The future snowmobile can be made wheeled, then its maneuverability will increase, but the cross-country ability will decrease, especially if the snow is loose.
The crawler suspension increases the cross-country capability of the machine, but reduces the maneuverability.
Designing the suspension
The shock absorber system for snowmobiling machinery consists of front and rear suspensions. These elements are designed to provide the smoothest ride possible so that the driver doesn’t feel any vibrations while driving over bumps.
The telescopic suspension is one of the most common and simple designs. It’s made up of a shock absorber and a spring in the strut. That is why the suspension smoothes out the vibrations of the shock type. As a rule, the technique with its use shows decent maneuverability.
In order to make the rear and front suspensions independent, it is necessary to connect the spars to the strut and the rudder bushing. This option provides a smooth ride. For the front suspension, you can also use the regular shock absorbers from the motorcycle.
Making wheels
Installing the wheels. On snowmobiles are usually used cameras from a truck. The hub attaches them to the suspension. With such wheels you can control them easily and drive safely. To make it, you need to put chains on the cameras for winter riding. Then the cameras need to be inflated, the chains put on will turn them into circles with a ribbed surface.
There’s another way. Two discs, made of metal, are connected to each other, then mounted on a sleeve, and then a camera is put on them, which is fixed with pieces of conveyor belt. To protect the camera, you can use the tire tread.
Electronics
The easiest way to make lighting is to use a “native” electric generator. Motorcycle manufacturers allow for this possibility and install electric generators with extra power. So there is enough energy to power additional electrical equipment: direction indicator, headlight, horn.
Caterpillars
Tracks for a snowmobile can be made with your own hands, using the following materials:
The speed of self-made snowmobile can reach about 60 km / h, so while riding you need to be safe.
For light snowmobiles from a power tiller, tracks are usually created from conveyor belt and roller chain. You do not need to have any skills or specialized equipment to create these tracks.
To extend the life of the tape, its edges are sewn with fishing line. The stitch spacing should be 1 cm. This will prevent the belt from breaking. To form a ring, the ribbon is sewn at the ends.
The thickness of the ribbon used depends on the power of the machine being created. The higher it is, the thicker the tape should be.
Wheels for a power tiller with your own hands. how to make it
It is impossible to make wheels for a power tiller without having some blanks. The work will require a base, which can later be shaped to the necessary size and improve.
The role of the base is perfectly coped with the wheels from a motorcycle or car. To make the track width slightly larger, you should apply special extensions for the wheels of the unit. They will help to make wheels that are best suited to the specific needs of the owner of the motoblock.
Tires for a power tiller should be selected based on the type of soil on which the unit is used. If the ground is sticky and the terrain has a lot of irregularities, then the tires must be studded and have an aggressive tread pattern.
Homemade wheels must be large in size. Otherwise they can not cope with the load created by the units in the process of work. In addition, small elements of movement often slip, and pulling them out of the mud without a tow in most cases is impossible.
Making wheels out of automobile discs is a fairly reliable option. The procedure is as follows:
- To make two wheels, you will need 4 car wheels. Each of them will need to be deburred with a file;
- Next you need to weld 2 discs to each other so that you end up with 4 elements. Weld the discs with their convex sides facing each other;
- After that, you need to put rubber chambers on the finished wheels;
- At the end, it remains to pump the wheels with air and install them on a single-axle tractor. To get acquainted with the basic nuances of manufacturing wheels for power tillers video.
For welding discs it is best to take automobile parts made of steel or elements made by forging. Diameter of discs should be at least 19 inches. Thanks to this size, the elements of movement will be free to pass the swampy terrain, and not to slip in the viscous soil.
How to choose the right low-pressure rubber on a single-axle tractor
On a correct choice of wheels for a power tiller depends on its further operation, as well as the service life of the undercarriage.
Experienced machine owners give their advice and recommendations.
Tips
Choosing tires for a power tiller, you must necessarily and strictly
- Study the characteristics of the unit, make measurements, so that the selected tire is fully suitable. Properly selected tire will be the key to the excellent work of the power tiller;
- Decide on the type of work to be performed on the technique, based on that already do the selection of wheels, and, accordingly, rubber for them;
- Decide on the type of soil, based on this you can already make a choice of the type of tread. In some cases, tires from cars “Zhiguli” or “Oka” can be suitable. For softer and stickier soils, tires with a higher tread pattern and higher cross-country ability, e.g. tires from Germany for moto 140 80 15.
Recommendations
It is recommended to pay attention to the following parameters first of all when choosing rubber for a single axle tractor:
- size, t. е. This is the number that comes after the tire name. Tire size is commonly referred to in inches. For example, tire size 6.00-12 where 6.00 is the tire’s diagonal width, while 12 is its seating diameter;
Rubber for single axle tractor 12
- purpose. a number of tires are for power tillers only, a number for transport only, and for other purposes. This must be taken into account when choosing rubber, matching the purpose of the cultivator;
- Quality or consistency with standards, quality of materials. It is recommended to buy tires from well-known manufacturers, which are guaranteed to be durable, sturdy and resistant to environmental conditions.
Which side wheels are suitable for the Neva power tiller??
The wheels from Moskvitch and Zhiguli are best suited for mounting on the Neva single axle tractor. There’s no need to change anything in them, because their diameter is perfect for mounting on a single-axle tractor. They only need to be slightly upgraded by welding.
The factory version will be much more expensive.
The main task in the modernization of Zhiguya wheels is their weighting, since in the factory they are very light.
Listed below are the main steps of making wheels for a motor-block from automobile tires:
- A half axle is installed inside the wheels;
- For the convenience of changing wheels, square plates are installed on the axle, holes are made in them. And then the wheels from the Zhiguya are attached to these plates;
- A hubcap is put on the outside to protect it from external factors;
- Cameras should be removed, and leave only the tires (to improve the quality of grip should use winter tire models).
It is problematic to use tires from other cars because they have a larger diameter or width, so they need to be additionally fitted using an axle extender or some other method, and not everyone is able to do it and not always.
To improve ground traction, some people additionally cover the wheels with a chain. The chain digs into the ground when you ride and gives you extra traction. Especially noticeable is its effect when driving after rain or snow.
The video demonstrates how to install Zhigul wheels on a single-axle tractor Neva:
Traction tires
This is a wheel modification. They have no tires or inner tube. Because they are designed to work directly in the field. Speed is not important here, but traction is important, because conventional wheels often skid and get stuck in the ground.
The grousers are steel discs with special inserts on the outer diameter. When driving, they deepen significantly into the ground and help in the movement. However, they are also subdivided according to their purpose.
KUM 680 wheels for ploughing
It is clear from the name what they are for. Their peculiarity is the solid rim and 7 cm protruding spikes. Plus the spikes are not mounted straight ahead, but at an angle. And they also turn over the topsoil when driving.
- Wheel diameter of the spikes is 43 cm and the rim diameter is 35 cm.
- The width of this kind of tedder is 20 cm.
- Mounted directly on the gearbox shaft without additional connections.
- The total weight of the structure is 16.5 kg.
The KUM 540 universal tilling wheels
These wheels differ from the 680 model by the fact that their rim is not solid, but has only sides and is hollow inside.
Plus, the studs aren’t slanted to one side, but V-shaped.
When the wheel is in motion, not only do the spikes deepen into the soil, but also the rim itself, thus sinking deeper into the ground and improving traction properties.
They need to buy extensions separately, because no fasteners in the standard form is not provided, only holes for connecting a standard diameter of 10, 5 mm. It leaves a track diameter of 60 to 65 cm.
Weight of the two hoops is approx. 13 kg.
Universal KUM 540 wheels with long hub
These are essentially KUM 540 wheels for ploughing, but with a hub already installed.
They are connected directly to the gearbox shaft.
Another difference is the track width. It can vary from 64 to 68 cm.
- Number of hoops. 2 pcs.
- Wheel diameter by spikes / by hoop. 540/460 mm
- Wheel width of 90 mm in the cleats
- The hub has a seating diameter of 30 mm
- Diameter of fixing holes in hub. 10,5 mm
- They are mounted on the gearbox shaft
- Gauge. 640 680 mm
- The weight of the pair is 13.55 kg
H grouser wheels for ploughing
These wheels have a large diameter and width. They are designed to work on virgin land or land after the winter period, when the surface of the ground is hard and unprepared.
Their width is 20 cm. The diameter of the spikes is 43 cm and the diameter of the hoop is 35 cm. That is, the height of the studs is 8 cm.
Can be mounted on the gearbox shaft or on special extensions.
Track width when mounted directly on the shaft is a fixed 40 cm. And when mounted on extensions can vary from 65 to 70 cm.
The H-tines for ploughing with a long hub
This is the same version of the H for plowing, but with bushings already installed. In this case the track width is fixed at 65 cm.
MINI H arable tines for ploughing
These grousers are similar to the model KUM. They are hollow in width.
These parameters allow you to successfully carry out plowing work on the Neva motoblock.
MINI H grousers for ploughing
A light version of the MINI H for ploughing. When ploughing, the soil is already prepared and soft. That is why there is no need in such massive models.
Also, the trenchers find use not only in the summer, but also in the winter:
Self-made all-terrain vehicle from a power tiller
Made a self-made all-terrain vehicle from a power tiller 6L.with, photo and description of making a homemade.
From the power tiller you can make a great mini all-terrain vehicle for off-road trips. The design is completely demountable, and if necessary tractor can be dismantled into its original state.
I have a not quite new, but in very decent condition single axle tractor with a Subaru EX17 engine rated at 6 hp.с. It is worth noting that the fuel consumption of this motor block, or rather this engine is very small. For the whole season of fieldwork I have enough for two full refills. Also, two of us with my dear niece last fall rode on this bike with a trailer in the woods for mushrooms, and I know for sure that we drove it about 40 km in both directions, as this distance is known from the odometer of the car. It took us a little over two hours and exactly a full tank of gasoline of 2.5 liters for the whole trip. Fuel consumption was very low, and the speed was even very good. more than 15 km per hour in second gear. It was indispensable in the countryside!
So why don’t I try to turn it into a cross-country vehicle for winter fishing? I used to go ice fishing with my (sadly now deceased) father on a homemade motorcycle motorcycle motorcycle IZh to the Volga Islands. Those were good times! A winter sunrise and a tired sunset, sparks in the snow and wet snow in the eyes, a hundred grams of smoke breaks and a good catch! And my mother’s waiting at home, flooding the bathhouse. Ah, the nostalgia! I still have this motorcycle, but it needs a little repair. Although I’m not likely to repair it, since I have neither documents nor driver’s license for it. And for a power tiller, as I understand, it does not require any of the above. Well, it’s worth a try?!
To improve the cross-country ability of a power tiller, we need to replace its regular wheels with low-pressure wheels of a larger size. The following photo shows the process of making such wheels.
The disk is quite durable, you can safely stand or sit on it in any position on the disk without fear of deforming it. To turn or bend something with bare hands only, of course, I failed. Disc width: 18 cm, side diameter: 52 cm, diameter on the deep middle part: 46 cm. And, most importantly, the disk was lightweight, its weight is exactly 10 kg.
For wheel banding I used a regular conveyor belt, about 10 mm thick. In stock was a transporter, both almost new and “almost” old, in various lengths, widths and degrees of wear. Even was already cut a little earlier for another motorcyclecycle-based Jupiter-3. I still have it and it may be even in working order. But it makes no sense to me to repair the wheels for it, because it is unlikely that the traffic police will allow me to drive it. I have no documents, and I do not have driver’s license of any category either. I used to go fishing on it often, but now inspectors of all kinds and degrees of power even go out on the ice, and I have only ten kilometers to the nearest ice on the road.
The belts, by the way, were also already cut earlier and the latch clamps were riveted to them. The hooks for these clamps are factory-made and you can see them in the pictures above, where they are already bolted to the wheel disc. Belts material. the same conveyor belt, cut to a width of 4 centimeters with a margin in length for a large camera from an airplane IL-76. I should say beforehand that I will use these chambers later on, but for rear wheel of cargo truck or trailer, I don’t know how I should call this construction. But that will come later, and now here are these straps, which I had to cut already for another chamber of the front wheels of my power tiller with a self-made cutter from a scrap of cloth:
At the end of each belt two holes are drilled out for rigid fastening to the inner side of the disk with bolts M8, the outermost bolt is tightened through the end plate, and the inner one. through the washer with diameter of 20 mm with spacing of 25 mm. I mark the centers of the holes with a simple nail file, sharpened on an emery. It’s very convenient to do this in rubber. This hole spacing is what I had when I was marking out the side rims of the wheel and the holes for the bolts have already been drilled in them. True, this step still did not work out strictly 25 mm. somewhere it turned out 26, and somewhere 24. So I drill the holes in the belts for each according to the pitch on the disc and mark both the disc beam and the belt itself in order from 1 to 15.
Characteristics of homemade low pressure wheels:
Got two nice low pressure wheels with grousers to mount on a regular single axle tractor.
To mount such wheels on a single axle tractor, I had to make extensions. adapters for gearbox shafts of my power tiller.
The cross-country vehicle frame was made of sectional tubing, and I also installed a low-pressure rear wheel.
At
As a result of such modification the usual single-axle tractor has turned into a full-fledged cross-country vehicle on low-pressure tires, which provides high cross-country ability of the vehicle on snow, ice, mud and swamp.