Lawn mower care: Proper use of lawn mowers. The pledge of its durability
Lawn mower. a unique in its convenience and ease of operation garden equipment, with which you can easily bring the beauty of the lawn in the garden and in certain areas of the homestead. It is a highly specialized unit: They can perform purely mowing the grass on the lawn and nothing else, but, nevertheless, it lawn mowers always become the best friend of cottagers, country house owners and people living in rural areas. Machines on display. indispensable equipment for municipal services, responsible for the neatness and cleanliness of parks, squares, lawns and flower beds.
After acquiring a brand new lawn mower, we all initially show increased piety and respect for the tool: admire them and show off, carefully read the instructions, wipe with a rag, do not load a lot of. But as time goes by, the appeal of novelty fades and the lawnmower becomes just a good working tool. It is important not to cross the line here, in order not to do with your favorite lawn mower what people call simply. “destroy”.
WHAT TO DO BEFORE STARTING
Nowadays, there are two main types of lawn mowers: electric and gasoline.
Gasoline mowers are very convenient to mow at a distance from home. Their main advantage is portability, because they are not tied to a particular place, you can move it to the farthest corner of the site and work there. Gasoline mowers are much more powerful than electric and can mow for many hours without interruption (does not affect the engine). Gasoline lawn mowers have several times higher mowing speed along with the electric mowers.
Before turning on the gasoline mower, you should first check the presence of fuel and lubricants, and most importantly. The gasoline lawnmowers are heavy duty, because if there is no or not enough oil, the motor can jam, and you will have to spend a lot of money for the repair.
Electric lawn mowers are less noisy than gasoline mowers, are also cleaner (more environmentally friendly) and more economical to use (especially with inexpensive electricity bills). The main disadvantage of such a lawnmower is the limited mobility due to the cord connection to the power source, and the extension cord often gets tangled and clings to everything.
Before starting the electric lawnmower, you should first check whether the extension cord and the power cord itself are undamaged, as well as whether the socket is working.
Another very important thing for an electric mower. Never use it in the dew or after rain. It should only be used on dry, moisture-deprived areas.
The function of the blade in a lawnmower
The lawn mower blade has a mowing function. The blades are made of stainless steel. The sharpening of the blade affects the performance of the work. A sharp tool cuts the plants evenly. A blunt mower leaves a fringe on them, i.e. each blade of grass is cut perpendicularly to the surface and into several pieces. It happens when you tear the grass with your hands. As a result, grass cut neatly and evenly, the next day the cut is already tight. Such a lawn looks attractive and bright. In the second case, the area in front of the house is a dirty-green color. Dissected cuts will only heal in 10-18 days.
Please note! An additional function of the blade in a lawnmower is to create an airflow during rotation, which carries the plants into the grass catcher box. Blades often have several special notches for this purpose.
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Sharpening a lawn mower blade from Lenfilm Studio
We tried our best to. If you’re not very happy, check out our website. There we broke down the “flights” of detail.
Reasons to remove the blade
Among the common reasons for removing or replacing a cutting element are the following:
When the knife is blunt, bent or deformed, the lawn after mowing looks unkempt. Correct the situation by sharpening the chuck.
Professionals recommend this procedure once a year. Better to do it in the spring, before starting work. If the cutting elements get blunt faster, they need to be sharpened more often.
If the blades are visible chips, cracks, or it strongly worn down and became thin, in this case, it is necessary to replace. There is no point in sharpening such a tool. In addition, the blade can at any time break and fly out from under the machine body, injuring people or animals who happened to be nearby. Such a tool can also cause engine damage. The element can be exchanged for a similar model. The characteristics of the blade are specified in the instructions.
You can always purchase a shorter blade if you don’t have one in stock. In this case, tidying up the lawn will take a little longer than before. But this is no problem, compared to the fact that the wrong knife is sometimes impossible to securely fasten to the garden equipment. Then the all-purpose lawnmower blades were the answer. These are blades that come with adapters, bolts, washers, etc. The blades themselves have several ways of fastening. As a result, cutting elements can be fixed on absolutely different models.
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Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawnmower
Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawnmower.
Tatyana65, I have a Honda lawn mower, it was the fourth year. It comes with a detailed annotation on sharpening the knife. Larix wrote it right. Although it is safer and more convenient to remove the knife, which, by the way, is fixed with 2 screws. Check the balance by “hanging out” with a screwdriver.
Of course, you shouldn’t run over any pebbles or other objects if you can. it will ruin the blade.
MTD I have, the knife took on Novozolozanskaya in the garden equipment store.
I always sharpen my knives myself. service centers are a bit far away, but the sharpener is close by. With the relatively low-powered electric mower that came before, sharpening was not uncommon, otherwise the grass edges would break. The stronger gasoline-powered one has been sharpened once in a season so far. it feels like it has “pressure”. The first time taking off the knife was very difficult. stick or what, but my husband only the third special. wrench unscrewed. And on the electronic, I handled with pliers without a fuss.
I took a spare blade in Lawnmower, but the husband took the old one and sharpened, worked with it for a while, hoping secretly that the unbalanced mower and I buy the newest. nothing came out, until now I use the old one, and it is not less than 4 years. already bored.
To some extent, the danger of a small imbalance is a myth. Look at the knife, there is so much not to know what the film sticks to it, and not moderately. And nothing harmful happens.
But if you take it off and grind it on the grinder, you will get unbalance for sure, the grinder removes metal without pity.
I either sharpen with a diamond razor (very good for tool steel and takes off a minimum). Or, if I run a very different mini drill like Dremel, it can be sharpened very carefully, too. You don’t have to sharpen it to knife sharpness, the main thing is to have an obvious angle, not circularity.
What prevents checking the balance, putting the knife by the central hole on the stick. if it is evenly hanging. it is balanced, if one side is pulling down. it is unbalanced and needs to be removed a little. Naturally, with this method knives sharpen more quickly. but I think, buy a pair of spare and replace them as they wear down. economically profitable than to drag every time to the service on the other end of town and pay for grinding (the only time I did so, they charged me 300, it was 5 years ago). You just need to calculate how much the knife costs and how much. a trip to the workshop.
But I do not like to grind with a rathole or bar. long and boring. really sorry for the time. You can also meditate on other work. weeding, for example. ? IMHO
Vasya, I also do not sharpen the blades, and change, but about the imbalance still say. Putting the knife on the stick and leveling it, you get only the static balance, the dynamic in the home criteria do not check, but it specifically gives the most adverse effects on the engine.
Rom165, I’d like to clarify. I just sharpen knives. but by myself, with an electric sharpener. And in the rest I agree. the electronic mower used for 6 years, it has already worn out the body (plastic). but it worked well and was given away “in good hands” after the acquisition of gasoline in working order. Over the years, 2 knives used alternately, and did not have time to grind with the sharpener before throwing away. And you mowed a lot. 12 hectares of grass. Was imbalanced. was not. do not know. ?
I report. to me at work, our craftsmen sharpened the knife, checked for imbalance, gave it to me and said. use it ? I’ve been watching closely how they sharpen them so that I could sharpen the blades myself later on. I know how to use an electric grinder. And sharpening the blades turned out to be so easy that I and my spouse won’t even bother ?
Reasons to remove the blade
Among the common reasons for removing or replacing a cutting element are the following:
When the knife is blunt, bent or deformed, the lawn looks unkempt after mowing. Correct the situation by a competent sharpening.
Professionals recommend doing it once a year. It’s better to do it in spring, before you start working. If the cutting elements get blunt quicker, they need to be sharpened more often.
If the blade shows chips, cracks, or it is heavily chipped and became thin, then it needs to be replaced. There is no sense in sharpening such tools. Besides, the blade can break at any moment and fly out from under the body of the machine, injuring people or animals who happened to be nearby. Such a device can also lead to motor failure. It is allowed to change the element for a similar model. The characteristics of the blade are specified in the instruction manual.
If there is no suitable product in the store, you can always buy blades of shorter length. This makes it a bit more time-consuming to tidy up your lawn than it used to be. But that’s not a problem, compared to the fact that the wrong knife is sometimes impossible to securely fasten to the garden equipment. Then the way out is the multipurpose lawnmower blades. These are blades that come with adapters, bolts, washers, etc. The blades themselves have several attachment options. As a result, the cutting elements can be fixed on completely different models.
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Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawnmower
Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawnmower.
Tatyana65, I have a Honda lawnmower, it’s in its fourth year. It comes with a detailed annotation on sharpening the knife. larix wrote it right. Though it is safer and more convenient to remove the knife, which, by the way, is fastened with 2 screws. We check the balance by “hanging out” with a screwdriver.
Of course, if possible, I shouldn’t run over any pebbles or other objects. that would spoil it.
I have MTD, I took the knife at Novolozolazanskaya in a garden equipment store.
I always sharpen my blades myself. service centers are far away, and the sharpener. nearby. My previous, relatively low-powered electronic mower had to grind often, otherwise the edges of grass shredded. The stronger petrol one has had only one sharpening in a season, it feels like it has “pressure”. The first time to remove the blade was very difficult. was seized or what, but the husband only from the third run spets. unscrewed with a wrench. I used a pair of pliers on the electronic one, but I don’t have any trouble.
Took a spare mower in Gazonokosilshik, but spouse removed the old and tonil, some time worked with them, vsekrete hoping that razbalirovanetsya mower and I buy the latest. nothing remarkable came out, so far using the old, and she is not less than 4 years. already bored.
To some extent, the danger of a small imbalance is a myth. Look at the knife, it does not know what films stick to it, and not moderately. And nothing harmful happens.
But if you take it off and sharpen it on the grinder, you will get imbalance for sure, the grinder removes the metal without a trace.
Personally, I either sharpen with a diamond razor (very good for tool steel and takes off a minimum). Or, if I run a very other words mini drill like Dremel, it is also very carefully can be sharpened. It is not necessary to sharpen to knife sharpness completely, the main thing is to have an obvious angle, not circularity.
What prevents to check the balance, putting the knife by the central hole on the stick. if it is even, it is balanced, if one side is pulling down. it is unbalanced and needs to be removed a little. Of course, with this method knives grind faster. but I think, buy a couple of spare knives and replace them as they grind. economically profitable than to drag every time to the service on the other end of town and pay for sharpening (the only time I did so, they charged me 300, it was 5 years ago). You just need to calculate how much the knife costs and how much. trips to the workshop.
I don’t like to sharpen with rathole or gouge. it’s long and boring, it’s really time-consuming. You can meditate on other things, like weeding, for example. ? IMHO
Vasya, I do not sharpen my knives, I just change them, but I will tell you about the imbalance. Putting a knife on a stick and aligning it you get only the static balance, the dynamic at home to check the criteria does not, but it specifically he gives the most adverse effects on the motor.
Rom165, I would like to clarify. I am just knives sharpening. but myself, with an electric sharpener. And as for the rest I agree. the electronic mower has been in use for 6 years, the housing (plastic) has worn out already. but it worked well and was given away “in good hands” after the acquisition of a petrol one in working order. Over the years, 2 blades have been used interchangeably and have not had time to grind with the sharpener before throwing away. And we mowed a lot. about 12 acres of grass. Was it unbalanced. don’t know. ?
I report. our craftsmen at work honed my knife, checked for imbalance, gave it to me and said. use it ? I watched them sharpening, so I could sharpen the blades myself later. I know how to use an electric grinder. And sharpening blades was so easy that I and the spouse did not even bother ?
Removing the knife
Preparing
The self-initiated process of partially disassembling a vegetation mowing machine begins with preparatory work. It is necessary to observe safety precautions and wear gloves. It is necessary to prepare a key in order to unscrew the mount, as well as a small board, which will help fix the knife. Disconnect the electric device from the mains. They drain the gasoline one and turn off the spark plug to prevent any possibility of sudden contact. Regardless of the type of machine, the owner must unscrew the grass catcher box.
Important! Before you turn the mower on its side or upside down, check it to make sure there is no petrol or oil leak. It is best to drain the oil in the crankcase, too. Otherwise it would be a problem to start the machine if it leaks.
It is also possible not to turn the mower over, but simply place it on a frame or two chairs, simulating an elevator. After that, a person approaches the machine from underneath.
The mower can be equipped with:
The former uses a single blade in the shape of a small strip. Its length will be the same as that indicated in the characteristics of the device under the item mowing width. It is usually 30-50 cm.
The second uses two blades that are mounted at a 180 degree angle with respect to each other.
As a side note! Another variant of the cutting system is blades with four blades. They can be connected to each other by a common base or not.
In the latter case, we are talking about several knives, located at different heights. Such a nozzle in the form of a top blade equip modern models, which have an additional function of mulching the lawn. The top blades get caught in the plants from the weed tank. The sharp edges thoroughly crush the greenery, which after the procedure covers the lawn ground and turns into mulch.
Step by step process
- Before removing the blade from the lawnmower, it is secured with a strong board or a log set into the ground. It is necessary that the blade, when it is to be removed, does not move. But some people neglect this safety measure and simply hold the blade with their hand.
- One takes an L-shaped socket wrench or a socket tool, which is ideally suited in size. The use of pliers is not recommended. This locksmith’s item easily ruins the edges at the bolts.
- Usually the cutting unit is secured with one large bolt in the middle. Modern models have several fasteners each. As a result you have to unscrew them all.
- Bolts are most commonly threaded on the right side. Therefore, to unscrew a bolt, the wrench is turned counterclockwise. To screw it back on, the opposite is done, i.e. the bolt is tightened clockwise.
- It can happen that in time the threaded pair becomes stuck, corroded and it becomes problematic to unscrew the bolt. In this case, special greases called liquid wrenches are used.
- If the removal was successful, and all fasteners are intact, then the bolts, nuts, washers are stowed away in the box for safekeeping. These are the connections that may need to be reused.
Further information. Before you remove the knife, you need to remember its position. Most often blades are put by a tip counter-clockwise, and the rotation of the element occurs in this way. However this advice is not suitable for all models. Therefore, attention should be paid to the position of the element. Exactly the same position you would have to put a new knife or screw the old one in after sharpening.
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Lawn mower blade for AL-KO Classic 3 2 E mowers.2 E
Suitable for AL-KO Classic 3.2 E.
German AL-KO Classic 3 lawn mowers.2 E are very popular with consumers for their excellent cutting performance in all areas, even the toughest. The cutting system of these lawnmowers is characterised by reliable and trouble-free operation, which is noted by professionals and small landowners alike. The AL-KO lawnmower blade 32 (112725). The AL-KO lawnmower blade 32 (112725) is quick and easy to mount. Due to perfect two-sided sharpening the blade shows an excellent even mowing, does not tear the grass and does not damage the root system. By creating an air flow with the blade of the blade, the grass is blown into the grass catcher box. Changing the blade is easy and straightforward in a matter of minutes. The AL-KO 32 lawnmower blade is 32 cm long and comes in its original packaging. The AL-KO Classic 3 lawnmower‘s cutting system is particularly well suited to applications where the cutting system has been worn out.2 E ordering such a blade is no problem. all the parts are in stock all the time. It has a special protective coating on the blade to avoid corrosion. The lawnmower enables the owner to mow even damp grass. The AL-KO 32 lawnmower blade is made of solid steel and the length of the blade allows the lawnmower to mow a large area efficiently. Specially sharpened blade guarantees long-lasting sharpening. However, in order to resharpen the blade it is advisable to call in a professional. The reliable, high-quality and reliable lawnmower blade ensures a perfectly even cut even in difficult areas.
Problems with mechanical parts
The mechanical system of lawnmowers with different drives consists of the following structural elements and assemblies:
- blades (rotary or cylindrical type) or lines;
- the gear mechanism;
- Grass catcher and grass ejector;
- Wheels, handles, and body.
Failure of the cutting element
The blades are most often damaged (e.g., bent or blunted), the trimmer line runs out. It is easy to spot with a simple visual inspection of the.
Cutting bluntness is evidenced by uneven cutting of grass stems when the lawnmower is mowing.
blades may become loose over time. The blades become out of balance while turning and may vibrate, whistle, rattle. If the blades are damaged, the lawn mower will make sudden, unexpected, sharp movements during work. To fix this kind of problem, the cutting elements are aligned, replaced with new ones or repaired. If possible, the blades are resharpened.
Sounds and vibrations during operation
Unusual sounds, vibration, rattling appear during the operation of the machine, when the fasteners of its structural elements: housing, motor are loosened. These phenomena are more common with gasoline models, because their motor vibrates more than the electric motor during operation. To eliminate these occurrences, check all connections, tightening the bolts if necessary. It can happen that the whistling sound during machine operation is caused by a foreign object inside, which blocks the roller in the aerator. In that case, you need only take it out to stop the noise.
Cutting nozzles do not rotate
Often when mowing tall or heavy grass, the cutting attachments stop rotating because they become clogged. This problem in most cases (if it has not led to more significant negative consequences) is easy to solve with their own hands, simply by picking out the stems of the plants with a stick.
Breakage of constructional parts
Damage to the wheels, handle and body are rare. If they are significant, then change these structural elements. Repair methods, if possible, in each case depend on the material of the broken parts. they can be plastic, aluminum, steel.
Belt breakage
Over time the mower wears out, gets stretched and then the belt breaks. In this case, the gasoline engine of the device works, but the blades do not rotate. Self-propelled models can also break the wheel drive belt: then they stop and do not drive. Sometimes the clutch cable is simply stretched and needs adjustment.
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The most common breakdowns
Every machine has a defect sooner or later. It is important to know how to repair mowers, because not all mowers need to be taken to a service center.
Mower does not cut the grass
Dull or severely damaged knives are in most cases the cause. For best results, simply change the blade every year. Choose a blade that is just right for your model. When the blade is blunt, it can be resharpened using an electric grinder or file. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves when sharpening. Sharpening angle of about 30 degrees on both sides.
Simple sharpening devices are available in stores. Before installing them, unplug the mower and adjust the cylinder positions so as to achieve the maximum cutting clearance.
In cylindrical mowers, the clearance between the blade and the cylinder should be less than the thickness of the paper sheet. Some of the most modern models have built-in notched regulators. In other cases, you will need to use wrenches and screwdrivers to make the necessary adjustments. Make sure the clearance is even along the entire length of the cylinder. To check the adjustment, insert a piece of paper between the cylinder and blade while slowly rotating the drum by hand. Gradually adjust on both sides until the paper starts to cut cleanly at each point of the fixed blade.
Mower is difficult to move
- When the mower has difficulty moving across the lawn, you may be trying to remove grass that is too tall and will need to adjust the mowing level. If the rollers or wheels are jammed, you need to inspect them to make sure there are no grass clippings or debris. They most likely need to be removed and cleaned.
- If the air intake is obstructed, the mower’s air cushion will lose its lift and become difficult to move. Lack of air causes engine to overheat. Turn off the power and remove any grass residue from the air intake grilles.
The equipment won’t turn on at all
Long, wet grass can easily block the blades. Remove the plug from the power supply and use a wooden object to rotate the cylinder to the other side of the blade until the movement is free. This method cannot be used for petrol mowers.
The belt that makes cylinder lawnmowers work wears out over time, stretches and can tear. Remove the belt cover and check if there is a tear, or if the belt just slipped off. Loosen the mounting screws and slide the small drive pulley up to the large cylinder pulley. Put a new belt on the small pulley and slowly rotate the large pulley, gradually putting the belt over it. Pull the pulley aside to tension the belt, then tighten the screws.
Before replacing the cover, make sure the tension of the belt is correct. the deflection may not exceed 4mm (this varies slightly depending on the model, consult your owner’s manual for detailed information).
Tear in the cord
Each time you use it, you unroll, move, and fold the cord. This may cause the internal conductors to break. In many models, the cord is connected to the screw terminals, which makes it possible to quickly check and replace. If double-insulated, connect a double-stranded cord.
Other models use clamp contacts for easy replacement. Disconnect the power supply, remove the plastic cover. When unscrewing the clamping plate, pay attention to the connection of the cord to the switch to observe the polarity of the connection (color of the wires).
To disconnect the cord, insert a hex wrench into each of the holes where the conductors are placed. to release the clamp and the conductor. Check where the break is formed.
If necessary, connect a new cord: twist together all the individual wires of each strand, then insert the twisted ends into the corresponding terminals. Pull lightly to check the connection. Then reinstall the clamping plate, cord bushing, and switch cover.