How to change a worn out chuck for a new one in a drill
Neither a drill, nor a peorator, nor an electric screwdriver can work without a chuck. This is a very loaded assembly. Every time the tool is changed, it must be unscrewed and re-tightened. It transmits torque in forward and reverse directions and absorbs all longitudinal loads from the interaction of the tool with the workpiece. So it’s no surprise that a drill chuck can wear out and no longer perform its function. Having made the decision to replace unusable for work chuck, you must buy a new, but necessarily similar, paying special attention to the type of thread. it can be metric (Russian production) and inch (foreign production).
How to remove the old chuck
Usually, chucks that are fastened to the spindle with a thread are additionally fastened via a left-hand threaded screw for more security. For this reason, the chuck must be removed first by unscrewing the screw. Before it can be unscrewed, it must be cleared. To do this, the chuck jaws need to be retracted as far back as possible.
If you now look inside the cartridge, you can see a screw head for a Phillips or star screwdriver in the center of the bottom. The left-hand thread of this screw is used to prevent it from slackening. So it must be unscrewed by turning the screwdriver to the right, after first clamping the assembly in a bench vice.
It is possible that the screw splines over the years of operation are clogged, and in order to seize them with a screwdriver bit, rotating it simultaneously, it is necessary to tap it lightly with a pair of pliers or a hammer until you feel the hook.
We clamp the free side of the hexagon in the jaws of the vice and use a suitable socket wrench to unscrew the nut on the drill, which secures the chuck to the spindle of the tool.
Then you can release the L-shaped hexagon from the vice and by turning it to the left, completely unscrew the clamping unit from the spindle shaft.
Design features
Chucks are designed to hold a replaceable tool bit during the torque or reciprocating motion of the mechanism inside the power tool. Depending on the type of tooling used, different clamping devices are used. Thus, there are three basic types. Let’s consider each variant in detail.
Toothed-ring
Otherwise, this drill chuck device is called a key chuck. The reason is that to fix the bit with a diameter of 1-16 mm here you need to change the position of the clamps using a special wrench. This is considered a plus because of the reliability of the work and a minus because of the compact device, which is often lost. To be installed on the drill.
Quick-clamp
To control the clamps here it is necessary to rotate the sleeve itself without using additional devices. The device is often installed on cordless drills, screwdrivers. Among the disadvantages are poor retention of large-diameter bits (limit diameters of 10 or 12-13 mm). The solution to this situation is to replace the worn chuck or to use a drill with a key analog.
In terms of performance, such chucks can be with one or two sockets. The first are considered unreliable because of the difficulty of repair and the presence of locks with low strength (elements of the system of locking the shaft). The second type is more convenient to use: during the rotation of the upper cylinder the skirt is held by the second hand.
This type of chucks is installed on peorators. They are noteworthy because during the rotary and reciprocating motion of the mechanism, there is no flying out or twisting of the nozzle. Shank and bit are also different in this case. Its cross-section is not polygonal, but cylindrical with longitudinal grooves.
Within the group these chucks (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt. from German “insert, turn, the drill is fixed”) are subdivided into several subspecies:
- SDS. Diameter of shank with two slots is 10 mm. Plunging depth of the drill is 40 mm. SDS-plus bits can be used.
- SDS-plus. The SDS equivalent has two additional short grooves. They are used to prevent the drill from falling out. Permissible drill diameters are 4-32 mm in lengths from 110 to 1000 mm. Suitable for light-duty rotary hammers.
- SDS-top. Seldom used in comparison with the second version. This chuck is mounted on a medium weight tool. Diameter of bit shank here is 14 mm, drill diameter is up to 32 mm. Dipping of tools is performed at 70 mm. Slots. two pairs: short and long.
- SDS-max. Common type of products for drills with diameter over 20 mm (heavy equipment). Shank with three long and two short slots, 18 mm section, 90 mm deep.
- SDS-quick. Here, the shank has lugs for fixation and a hexagonal cross-section that makes it possible to work with bits and drills. Drill bits are limited to 10 mm in thickness.
- SDS-hex. This is a specialized chuck unit for working with chisels and picks. Mounted on demolition hammers.
As can be seen, the devices differ from drill chucks in the lack of clamping blades. The drill bits are locked in place by slots in the shank, which are built into the body. No risk of falling out due to ball and spring retention. This explains the different bits used depending on the chuck design. Tooling is installed by pressing down until you hear a distinctive click.
Replacement
Before you disassemble the chuck from the drill, you need to find out the type of attachment on the shaft: cone or threaded connection. If the thread is left-handed, the manufacturers have provided a stop screw. It can also be metric or inch.
The cone method of connection is formed by using the Morse cone (popularly called tool cone). Installing the chuck on such a shaft is done with a little force for tightness. This option is often the case with screwdrivers.
The table shows a step-by-step algorithm for dismantling drill chucks.
| Action | Details |
| Threaded connection | |
| Stop screw | Unscrewing. |
| Chuck | The way to unscrew the chuck on the drill. counterclockwise with a gas wrench. The shaft can be clamped in a vise, if necessary. In addition, the device is inspected to determine if it is in good working order. |
| Jammed drill bit | You need a hammer to get the bit out. It is necessary to make a few light blows from above on the cams. |
| Cone connection | |
| Technically | To disassemble the drill chuck a special tool is included with the tool. |
| The folk way | Secure the drill with the drill bit downwards. The back of the tool is pounded evenly with a hammer. This is how the chuck is knocked off the shaft. |
In the case of the threaded connection, the chuck is installed in reverse order with the same steps as for disassembly. In the second case, the cone must first be tapered. Here we will need sandpaper (you can use it on a cloth), a file for burrs. After that, the clamping device is also installed by percussive movements, only with a cudgel.
Method of dismantling the chuck
The clamp with the threaded joint is removed taking account of the left-hand thread.
The threaded element is located on the inside of the device, so first the clamping jaws are moved apart as much as possible, this allows access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed with a normal Phillips screwdriver. In drills without this screw, the chuck is twisted off the shaft without the preparatory work described above.
The left-hand threaded screw that secures the threaded chuck can wear out later on. To restore reliability of the connection, it is recommended to do the following:
These actions will not result in damage to the mounting assembly of the drill and will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.
The threaded cartridge can be replaced with a 14 mm wrench. In order to avoid mistakes, it is recommended to read the theoretical material and watch the corresponding video.
To replace a worn chuck, the old clamping device is removed from the drill and a new one is installed. Both regular and mini-drills are fitted with threaded chucks with a tapered connection.
When replacing on drills with a threaded chuck, it is important to consider the markings that have this appearance:
The interval 1,5-13 indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool. The new clamp must have identical markings to the old one.
Cone connection
The tapered chuck is easier to replace. This type of device may be marked as follows: B 10; B 12; B 16; B 18.
The set of the drill includes a special device for the removal of chucks, however, experienced craftsmen simply turn the drill down with the drill bit, fix it and, by applying even blows with a hammer on the back side, knock it out of the shaft.
After disassembly the tapered surfaces are ground with an emery cloth. If there are scratches on the surface, these can be removed with a file. A new chuck is inserted by hitting it with a mallet, seating tightly at the joint.
To remove a drill bit or other accessory that has become jammed in the chuck, skill and experience with pliers is required. If the clamp has failed, it is replaced.
If you are interested in how to remove the chuck from an Interskol drill, read the following information. The clamp is on an inch right-hand thread, but thanks to the reverse, it is possible to fix it inside the product with a screw with a left-hand thread. The cams are unfolded, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted, the left-hand threaded screw is unscrewed. Because they are tightened too much, problems can occur. Do not tear the splines! Then try to unscrew it with the gas wrench, but with the gearbox at a low speed.
How to disassemble and lubricate a drill chuck
Conventional cam-type key chucks on drills and screwdrivers often begin to jam after prolonged use. It becomes more difficult to tighten and release the drill bit, which is caused by corrosion of the internal clamping mechanism and its subsequent deformation. To prevent or even restore the life of the old chuck, grease it from the inside.
Materials and tools:
First remove the chuck from the drill or drilling machine. Its cams are separated, and a Phillips screwdriver is inserted between them.
The chuck is held in place by the left-handed screw. To remove it, rotate the tool clockwise. Sometimes there are screws with slots for a star, so you need an appropriate screwdriver.
You have to unscrew the chuck from the shaft of the drill by removing the screw. This is done counterclockwise. If you have been using the drill a long time, it is not as easy to unscrew by hand. You have to secure the shaft. There is often a chamfer on the chuck to fit the wrench, which will make it easier to remove. If it is not present, it is better to remove the cartridge by gripping it with a pipe wrench.
After removing the chuck, turn it with the jaws down and hit it in the center of the rear part with a small hammer. Do this with the weight. You need to squeeze the outer cage of the chuck with your hand and aim the strikes with the firing pin. It is not possible to grip it from below because the rim does not have a projecting face. If the chuck is rusted and won’t come out, you should first apply a penetrating lubricant like WD-40.
As a result, a clamping mechanism consisting of a base, 3 removable cams and a nut cut in half with slits for a special key should come out of the cage.
Then put the nut halves back in place, and return the mechanism to the cage. To reassemble it in its entirety you hit the pinion cage with a hammer until it sits. This, too, is best done from the weight.
The lubricated and assembled chuck is screwed clockwise onto the shaft of the drill, and then the fixing screw is screwed in.
It can happen that during the disassembly the slits of the screw worn out, then it is better to replace it or cut a new notch on it with a hacksaw for metal. If the chuck is lubricated from the beginning after the purchase of the drill, it is very easy to disassemble and serves much longer, so it is better not to delay this procedure.
How to use the screwdriver
It is possible to ensure the long functioning of the tool if you adhere to simple rules of operation:
- Protect the machine from moisture;
- It is necessary to adjust the tool before use;
- Disconnect the battery while you are changing nozzles;
- if not used for a long time, periodically start the screwdriver to discharge the battery;
- have a few spare batteries.
Chuck replacement in a screwdriver in the home workshop can be accomplished by any man. The above described methods guarantee that you can do it quickly and with a minimum of effort.
The problems of the chuck mechanism
In a modern drill, such as Interskol or Makita, the drill bit or other accessories are held in place by a cam-type chuck: 3 or 4 cams hold the cutting tool securely and can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. Quick-action chuck with manual adjustment, more complicated units in modern drills with a wrench.
During use, a hammering of the jammed bit can occur, which is caused by the wear of the cams during prolonged use. Repair of the tool is made as follows: it is necessary to remove the device from the shaft, the same actions are necessary when the drill jams, because it can be removed only after a complete disassembly of the chuck part of the product.
There is also the following problem: the chuck rotates in relation to the tool shaft. The reason for this behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device mount, or the seating cone has sagged. The way out is to change the chuck for a functioning analog.
The step by step instructions for disassembly
Sometimes it is necessary to disassemble it for the following reasons:
Practice shows that the easiest and most common way of disassembly is with the help of the torch.
- Remove the duster from the dampener.
- Insert small adapter.
- Push the actuator jaws inward, squeezing the chuck to the maximum.
- Put some cushioning material between the chuck and the wall, a piece of textured polystyrene or rubber, for example.
- Press the torch together with the cartridge to be dismantled and the shock absorber to the wall.
- Switch on the accelerator by setting it into the impact mode.
- In a few seconds the chuck components will be unscrewed, i.e. the chuck is disassembled.
- Remove the cams and carry out a visual inspection.
If the drill was used for drilling walls, then there is a high probability of dust, cement, small particles of bricks and so on inside the tooling. It is necessary to remove all debris, if necessary, wash the parts with kerosene. Then lubricate the parts with grease after wiping them down.
It is important not to swap the jaws. To avoid this, use markings on each part and sign them as well as the seats.
Then you have to do the following:
- Extend the cams forward.
- Install the nut (consisting of two dryers), with which the wrench can be used to unscrew and screw the cartridge into place.
- Remove the cams by unscrewing them from the device.
- Put the cartridge case back in place.
- Press the cage in place. This can be done in different ways, e.g. by using a lathe. In this case the front part of the jig is clamped in the machine chuck and the rear part is pressed by the tailstock. A simpler “home” method is as follows: take a solid metal plate, on which the dismountable tooling is placed. A thick washer made of non-ferrous metal is placed on its upper part. By lightly striking the washer with a hammer, press the cage into place.
The assembly is suitable for further operation.
Basic types of drill chucks
By design, drill clamps are divided into two main types:
- Tooth-ring chuck with a special wrench to clamp the tool shank;
- Quick-action drill chuck (QAC), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by its manual rotation.
Clamping jaw chucks installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. This type of devices is practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills is the quick-clamping chuck (QCL). Only takes a few seconds to engage the tool in the four-way clamping chuck, no special key required. Clamping of tool shank is achieved by manual rotation of adjusting sleeve, the external surface of which is corrugated for easy performance of this procedure. Designed for mechanical interference on the tool shank, this toolholder has a special locking device to regulate the mechanical forces exerted on the shank.
To fix the drill with one hand, hold the lower sleeve and tighten the upper one with the other hand in a clockwise direction
The most significant disadvantages of the chuck should be attributed to the fact that in cases when elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not reliably fix the shank of large-diameter drills. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.
Compared with the clamping devices of the category BZP, gear-type drill chucks provide a secure hold on the tool in any situation. Users who have to work frequently with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only big disadvantage of such devices is that it is rather easy to lose the wrench. But this problem can be easily prevented, if you immediately after buying the drill, fix the key to the cord of the device with insulating tape or a normal rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit to be clamped in the Mini Driver depends on the calibre of the collet
The mini drill chuck for compact drills is also very popular. The latter are used extensively by jewelry craftsmen. Mini chucks are categorized as quick-action chucks for electric screwdrivers and light drills. Such a small chuck, predominantly made of brass, is used to hold tools with a shank diameter between 0.1-4.5 mm.
Design and features of the toothed-ring chuck
The classic drill chuck refers to clamping devices of the collet or cam type. They can clamp not only various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for their further processing. The basic elements of the design of clamping jaw chucks are:
- Cylindrical body;
- Adjustment ring or sleeve, rotating on the outer surface of the housing;
- cam mechanism or collet, installed in the inner part of the device body.
Design of cam (toothed-ring) chuck with a key
In turn, the collet mechanism, whose elements are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when rotating the adjustment ring or sleeve, simultaneously approach each other, thereby ensuring reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the first manual drill chucks, the collet was moved by rotating the adjusting wheel, nowadays it is moved by an adjusting sleeve.
One side of the drill chucks is installed on the shaft of the used equipment, and the other side is used to insert the tool that will be used to perform the machining. Clamping jaw chucks are mainly used to secure the following tools in them:
The cam chuck of a drill is designed for clamping tools with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank
How to assemble and disassemble the chuck yourself
To perform maintenance and repair of the chuck of the peorator with their own hands, it is important to correctly remove and disassemble this device. Knowing how to disassemble the chuck of the peorator (or how to disassemble the chuck for the drill), you will be able to perform inspection, cleaning and even small repairs of its internal elements yourself, which will allow you to always keep your tool in technically serviceable condition. The uncomplicated design of SDS cartridges allows even those people who are not good at techniques to remove and disassemble them.
Pull the plastic part off the cartridge and remove the rubber gasket.
Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring and then the retaining washer.
When the lock washer is removed, under it you can see the second ring, which also needs to be removed with a screwdriver.
Once all the rings and washers have been removed you can disassemble the SDS mechanism which consists of a washer, a ball and a spring. First of all you must take out the ball and then the washer and only after that the spring.
All parts of the cartridge mechanism, if you perform its maintenance, must be cleaned of dirt and dust, lubricated, and then reassemble the device in the reverse order.
To become even more familiar with the question of how to remove the chuck from the peorator or drill, how to disassemble it correctly, perform maintenance or minor repairs, you can study not only the theoretical information, but also watch the appropriate video.
About the attachments for the peorator
Theoretically, it is possible to install a tool with a shank for SDS-plus chucks or even a tool with an even smaller diameter of the seating part on the chuck of the SDS-max peorator. To solve this problem a special nozzle (adapter) is used, which can be purchased at almost any construction market today. Meanwhile it is categorically not recommended to use such adapters for the pen, because using a smaller diameter tool on the pen of heavy class quickly lead to its uselessness.
As a rule, tools for peorators are sold in packs at once and cannot be repaired after failure. it should not be confused with ordinary drills, which differ from it in the shape of sharpening and the structure of the spiral.