Drill Button Wiring Diagram with Reverse Drill. Drill Button Wiring Diagram for Replacing Buttons. How to connect the drill directly without reverse Sturm drill winding connection diagram to the button
Electric circuit diagram of a drill with speed control and reverse
Drill. a manual, pneumatic or electric tool designed to give rotary motion to a drill or other cutting tool for drilling holes in various materials during construction work
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What is the wiring diagram for a drill button?
Of course it is impossible to state so unambiguously that buttons on all drills are connected the same way, there are drills with reverse, there are drills with direct connection, therefore this answer will be more introductory than to carry specific information.
Even on drills of the same type there is a difference in the connection of the button depending on the functionality of the drills, here is an example of the connection of an old Soviet drill:
Another wiring diagram for a reversible drill, more or less common:
On some reverse drills, the following pins are basically involved on the button:
The top of the button interrupts the pole on the electric motor.
Here are some drill button wiring diagrams
(the bottom photo is a scheme of button connection of the impact drill), the schemes are hand-drawn, for the original schemes usually go together with power tool (drill in this case).
If you are looking for something universal that fits all drills, this is not the case.
Drills are different in type, by type of power (by the way buying a new drill button, you must consider the power of the tool, otherwise the button will not last long).
The drill can be with or without reverse (a button with reverse has an additional lever that switches the drill to reverse rotation).
There are professional tools, there are domestic tools.
That is, that would find a diagram of the drill button (connection) should be based on the specific model of the drill.
Drill button replacement or repair is carried out only when the drill is off.
If you have an old Soviet drill, it is extremely difficult to find the original (native) circuit.
Since almost all drills nowadays are equipped with reverse, I will give you the wiring diagram in this way
I think that for those who understand the circuit diagrams this figure will not be difficult and disconnection, by the way, too. I can give you only one piece of advice about the button, don’t try to take it apart, because usually it just explodes into a lot of spare parts and it is very difficult to put it back together again. In the case of a problem with the button it is easier to change it than to repair it.
Standard connection diagram of the drill with reverse on the picture.
It shows the existing electric motor speed controller with reverse rotor, reverser. The button is quite complicated in construction.
No special knowledge is needed to connect the button, it is enough to know that the new button corresponds to the power and size of the drill.
Drill repair with your own hands
With some skill, the repair of the drill at home is quite simple. Among numerous cases of drills failure it is possible to allocate some characteristic defects, which are caused by incorrect exploitation of electric tool or defective elements from the manufacturer. Such typical breakdowns include:
Drill device (the simplest Chinese electric drill): 1. speed controller, 2. reverse, 3. brush holder with a brush, 4. motor stator, 5. fan for cooling the motor, 6. gearbox.
Assembly of an electric drill: 1. stator, 2. stator winding (the second winding under the rotor), 3. rotor, 4. rotor collector plates, 5. brush holder with a brush, 6. reverse, 7. revolution regulator.
Some spare parts (switch, rotor, stator, brushes, bearings, etc.).) to the most popular models, you can buy here (only buy better through the online store, t.к. in a usual store of this network the price can be higher).
Brush replacement. The most common type of failure is wear of the motor brushes, which can be replaced yourself at home. Sometimes, the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the body of the drill. For some models it is enough to unscrew the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. With other models, the replacement requires disassembly of the housing, in which case you must carefully remove the brush holders and remove worn brushes.
Brushes are sold at all normal power tool stores, and often an extra pair of brushes is included with a new power drill.
Do not wait until the brushes are worn down to their minimum size. This will cause the gap between the brush and the collector plates to widen. As a consequence of increased spark formation, the collector plates get very hot and can “move away” from the base of the collector, which leads to the need to replace the armature.
You can tell if the brushes need replacing by the increased spark formation that can be seen in the housing ventilation slots. The second way to determine, is a chaotic “twitching” of the drill during operation.
Power cord. The cord is checked ohmmeter, one probe is connected to the contact of the mains plug, the other to the core of the cord. No resistance indicates a breakage. In this case, the repair of the drill comes down to replacement of the power cord.
Diagnosing the motor. In second place, in terms of the number of breakdowns of the drill, you can put the failure of the motor elements and most often the armature. Failure of armature or stator occurs for two reasons. improper operation and poor quality rewinding wire. Manufacturers with a worldwide reputation use expensive winding wire with double insulation with heat-resistant varnish, which many times increases the reliability of motors. Consequently, the quality of the insulation of the coil wire leaves much to be desired in the cheap models. Incorrect use can result in frequent overloading of the core drill or long periods of non-continuous use without a break to cool the motor. Repair the drill with their own hands by rewinding the armature or stator, in this case without special devices is impossible. Only replacement of the element completely (only experienced repairmen will be able to rewind the armature or stator with their own hands).
Drill button wiring diagram. how to fix the problem?
Unfortunately, to check the functionality of the tool, you will not be enough tester, which is due to the fact that most of the buttons of the device are equipped with a continuously variable speed, and therefore an ordinary tester can give you incorrect data. In this case you need a special drill button wiring diagram. Often in tools one wire is connected to a terminal, and therefore simultaneous pushing of the button leads to terminal wiring. In the case where the light illuminated, everything is fine with the button, but if you notice a malfunction. it’s time to replace the button.
When carrying out the replacement, keep in mind that the circuit can be both simple and with reverse. Because of that all works on button replacement should be done only according to the scheme, without adding anything “from yourself”. So, the part must be the right size and fit the power of the tool. Calculating power is quite a simple task. Let’s use the formula P=UI (assuming that the power of the drill is 650W), I = 2.94 A (650/220), so the button must be 2.95 А.
The heart of the instrument
The commutator motor consists of three main parts: the stator, the rotor and the graphite brushes.
As a rule, it is made of special grades of electrical steel, which have a very high degree of magnetic permeability. Structurally, it looks like a cylinder with slots, where the copper wire winding is placed. there are two of them and they are facing each other. The stator is rigidly mounted in the body of the drill.
Its second name is the rotor because it is in constant rotation when the tool is running. Anchor is a shaft with a core pressed on it made of similar steel to the stator. Along the entire length of the rotor, at equal distances, special recesses have been cut into which the winding is inserted. They are wound from solid copper wire, and the leads are attached to the collector plates. The whole armature is divided into segments, its collector is rigidly mounted on the shaft shank, the whole structure rotates during operation on bearings mounted on both sides of the shaft.
The design of the rotor and stator is perfectly illustrated on the
Brushes with built-in springs travel on special guides in the stator housing when the motor is running. they transfer the voltage to the rotor, so there is constant arcing between them and the armature housing, indicating that all is well. The brush housing, made of pressed graphite, wears out during use because of the constant friction, so they are periodically inspected and replaced.
Cheap Simple Drill Press Reverse Switch
The key to start: checking the reverse
Assemble the electric drill and check. In case you wished to foolingly reproduce the circuit “in iron” with errors, the first connection is better to make through a circuit breaker with a rated current equal to or slightly higher than that consumed by the electric drill. If you do not have a machine, you can switch it on with a fuse of the same amperage. You may not have a fuse on hand, or your wife, greed, or laziness won’t let you go to the store. Then use a piece of wrapped copper wire of 0.26 mm diameter. In fuses, this diameter corresponds to the nominal current of 10A.
The rated current of the overcurrent protection is the current at which the automatic unit has not yet tripped and the fuse has not yet blown.
The wire could be thinner. 0.15 mm will handle a current of 4.5 A. And a reminder: A fuse or a circuit breaker is connected in series with the load (power drill), not in parallel! This may sound like idiotic advice, but there have been precedents. We switched parallel switches and ammeters. And then wondered: “Why is it fuses in the apartment electric box blows out?”. As the mothers say to their children: “Don’t be so!”.
How to make a circular saw from a drill with your own hands. step by step instructions
Circular saw is designed for sawing products made of wood, plastic and ceramic tiles. Despite the rather high cost, it is widely used in the economy. For domestic use, it is more appropriate to make such a saw yourself. One of the most common options is a circular saw, made from a drill.
The necessary materials
To make a circular saw for home from a drill does not require a special tool or involvement of an expert. If you have the desire and enough free time, all the work can be done yourself. You will need to prepare the following materials in advance:
- Wooden bars with a section of 30×30 mm;
- ball bearings;
- Plywood or OSB sheet;
- fastening hardware;
- door hinges.
In addition, it is necessary to prepare a saw blade, a set of wood cutting bits and a drill, which will later be used as a circular saw motor.
For greater reliability, instead of wooden planks and OSB sheets, it is better to use metal sheets and profiles. Because of the cost of rolled metal,
, 800 watt drill. approx. 2000 and the average. 13000.
Choice of tool
Using a drill as the power unit of the machine is a very profitable and convenient solution. The tool can be dismantled at any time and used for its intended purpose, in addition, it will be useful in the construction of the machine.
Household drills are equipped with a small power motor. Therefore, a machine with a power unit from such a tool is suitable for cutting bars of small section, sawing sheets of plywood and OSB.
An electric screwdriver can be used as a drive. However, its motor power will be sufficient only for sawing sheets of plywood or thin boards. Therefore, its use is advisable only in exceptional cases.
When using semi-professional and professional tools, you can increase the diameter of the saw blade and, consequently, the productivity.
Making a stationary machine from plywood
There are many ways of making a stationary stand for wood sawing, we will consider one of the popular. The most inexpensive and easy to make is a machine with a wooden table.
Here is a general algorithm for the manufacture, but it is worth considering the fact that each master makes it for his own needs, taking into account their needs.
To make such a stand, you need to perform the following steps:
- On one of the ends of a wooden bar to draw a marking for rounding corners. Also mark out holes for axes at the ends and in the center of the bar.
- Using the markings you made earlier, make recesses in the middle of the block, on opposite sides, with a wood-cutter to install the bearings. Connect the grooves that are formed by inserting a through hole in the groove.
- Drill holes in the end face and on the edge of the beam according to the markings made.
- Press anti-friction bearings into the prepared slots. To do this, place the bearings in their seat and mount them in place using a wooden plank.
- Locate the center of the stud that will serve as an axis.
- Insert the stud in the pilot bore and align it accurately in the center position. Secure its position with nuts and locknuts. On the side where the circular sawblade is to be set, position the two shim washers and secure them with a nut.
- Prepare a small block of wood. Drill a blind hole in one of its ends.
- From the sheet OSB / plywood (depending on what you choose) cut two rectangular blanks. At a corner of one of them, drill a hole inside and place a bar. Secure its position with screws.
- With the help of metalware connect the prepared OSB / plywood plates with each other.
- Connect the sliding timber to the timber on the end wall of the future stand.
- Mark the position of the longitudinal groove in the OSB / plywood that will serve as the other end wall. Its center should coincide with the center of hole in the end of moving beam.
- Use an electric jigsaw or other tool to cut a groove.
- Connect between themselves the base of the machine and prepared OSB / plywood sheet with a groove.
- After that, screw a stud into the hole in the end of the sliding bar. Screw a nut on the protruding end. It is better to use a wing nut for convenience.
- At the bottom of the moving bar, symmetrically to the center install and fix a rectangular panel cut from a sheet of OSB / plywood.
- Mount the metal half clamp to the edge of the installed panel. It is necessary for fixing the drill that will be used as the drive for the circular saw.
- From a sheet of OSB / plywood cut out the work surface of the machine. On one of the inner sides, the door hinges should be installed for easy access to the saw blade.
- Install the sawblade to the drive shaft.
- Turn on the drill. Slowly lower the table to the horizontal position. A rotating saw blade will cut the necessary hole in the board.
After this step you can start working. Using the protruding pin, you can adjust the depth of cut of the workpieces.
Click here for detailed instructions
Another step-by-step manufacturing algorithm
In case you need to cut plywood, laminate or thin boards, you can make a domestic circular saw with a drive from a hand drill. For this you will need the following materials:
- Sheet OSB or Laminated chipboard;
- wooden bars;
- angle grinder shaft;
- 1 mm thick metal sheet;
- fastening hardware.
In order to make a mini sawing machine it is necessary to perform the following steps:
- Use a sheet of metal, a clamp, and the drive shaft from an angle grinder to make a drill adapter. In addition, such a nozzle can be ordered on the site Aliexpress by clicking on the link.
- Mark the place of attachment drill mount, on the reverse side of the work surface of the future desk.
- Secure adapter with wood block and countersunk screws.
- Make a groove to install the saw blade.
- On the longitudinal edges of the table install two rectangular strips and screw them to the working table of the machine, they will act as the legs of the machine.
- For safer use a sheet of thick plywood or OSB should be screwed to the bottom of the table.
How to make reverse on the drill with their own hands
Repair of the drill can be carried out by your own forces, the main thing is to know the causes of breakdowns and methods of their “treatment”. Today we will tell you about how the wiring diagram of the drill button looks like, we will not skip the other faults, thanks to which you will be the happy owner of a working tool.
Possible malfunctions of the tool. do the repair yourself
If your tool began to work worse, or stopped performing its direct duties at all, it’s time to diagnose the faults and try to cope with them. First, we check the wire for damage and voltage in the socket, for which you can include any other device. a TV or a kettle.
If you’re inspecting battery-operated devices, you should check them using a tester. in which case the voltage indicated on the housing should have a similar value to the battery voltage.
If the voltage is lower, you’ll have to change the batteries for new ones. If the battery works fine, the power supply is normal, look for problems in the hardware. The most frequent breakdowns are considered:
Knowing how the electric drill button connection works, you can quickly solve the problem. In addition, the problem with the work of the drill can also arise from the dustiness of the tool, because the drill “takes” and wood, and bricks, and other materials.
And therefore, you should take care to clean the device after each use. this is the only way to reduce the risk of malfunctions due to contamination of the tool.
That is why after you have made repairs in the apartment, immediately clean the drill.
Drill button wiring diagram. how to fix the problem?
Unfortunately, to check the functionality of the tool, you will not be enough a tester, which is due to the fact that most of the buttons of the device are equipped with a smooth speed control, and therefore an ordinary tester can give you incorrect data.
In this case, you will need a special wiring diagram of the drill button. Often in tools one wire is connected to a terminal, so pressing a button at the same time causes the terminals to ring.
Convert simple drill into both side rotation Machine
In case the light turns on, the button is fine, but if you notice a malfunction, it’s time to replace the button.
When replacing, keep in mind that the circuit can be either simple or with reverse. Because of this, all work on the replacement of the button should be carried out exclusively according to the scheme, without adding anything “from yourself”.
So, the part should be the right size and appropriate to the power of the tool. In this case, calculating the power is a simple enough exercise. Let’s use the formula P=UI (assuming that the power of the drill is 650W), I = 2.
94 A (650/220), so the button must be 2.95 А.
How to Reconnect a Drill Button by Yourself?
Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work with your own hands, observing some important rules.
Electric drill: schematic diagram of the device
For example, remember that opening the housing can lead to the fact that all parts and loose parts just fall out of the housing. Naturally, this should be avoided, because then it will be quite difficult to put the device together. To do this, you can gently lift the cover, marking the exact location of the parts on the paper.
The button is repaired as follows:
- First pick up the latches for the hood, and then it is carefully pulled together;
- All corroded and darkened terminals are cleaned of fouling, for which you can use alcohol or emery cloth;
- Reassemble the tool, making sure that all parts of the device are in their place, and check the performance of the drill. if nothing has changed, change the part;
- The turnover regulator is filled with compound, so if a part fails, simply replace it;
- A frequent failure is the abrasion of the working layer under the rheostat. it is better not to repair it, you just waste your time, it is better to buy a new one and replace it.
Many people wonder where to get such a circuit? First of all, it should go with the tool when you bought it, but if there is no diagram, or you have lost it, you have to look on the Internet.
After all, only with its help, you will be able to make repairs competently, without errors.
By the way, the RPM regulator button and the reverse control button are located in different places, and therefore they have to be checked separately.
Checking the Electric Motor: Breakdown Causes and Repair
There are several causes of breakdowns of the armature or stator of the drill. Above all, it is illiterate use of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, carrying out work without a break. This leads to the fact that the drill motor does not have time to “rest”.
The second reason is a bad coil wire, which is often found in cheap models. That is why breakages of cheap tools are much more frequent. Repair in this case should be carried out with a specialized tool.
And it will be better if you entrust this work to professional specialists.
However, if it was decided to carry out the repair by your own forces, you will definitely have a question. how to do everything correctly? As you have already understood, the electric drill “suffers” armature and stator breakdowns, and you can check this by several signs, for example, when the tool suddenly sparks during operation. If there are no “bright” signs, you can use an ohmmeter.
- First, carefully disassemble the body of the device;
- We remove the wires and all the internal parts;
- After finding out the causes of the breakage, replace the part with a new one, close the case again.
The motor of an electric tool
The drill has in its design a collector motor, which includes 3 main components, in the middle of them:
Figure 1. Layout of a drill hammer mechanism.
The first mentioned element has a base of electrotechnical steel, which has a quality of stunning magnetic permeability. It is made according to the cylinder principle and has devices for the assembly of stator windings. There are two of them, and their location is opposite to each other. The stator is firmly fixed in the body of the head unit.
The rotor is represented by the shaft, on the last one the core is installed, which is made on the basis of the same steel that remains to be made by our customer. Along the last one there are grooves, which are separated by an equal number of steps. The windings are installed with a single wire and have taps designed for fixation to the collector plates. This forms the armature, which has its own segments. The collector is placed on the shaft shank and is firmly fixed to the shaft. The rotor during start-up rotates in the internal space of the stator on bearings. On the plates during the operation of the unit move brushes. They have graphite in the base.
How to choose replacement parts
If any device of the electric drill has failed, it will have to be replaced. However, before you do anything, you should familiarize yourself with the nuances of choosing new parts.
All you need to do. identify the manufacturer and find out the exact name of the model. Find this information on the label that is located on the body. With this data, you will be able to find the accessories that will exactly fit the drill.
What affects the cost of glazing balconies
Of primary importance are the overall dimensions of the construction and the version of the windows. deaf structures are cheaper than those that open. There are ordinary glazing, and more expensive models with advanced features: energy-saving, soundproof, multifunctional, shockproof, etc.д. The cost of balcony glazing depends largely on the material chosen to build the frame. we offer the following design:
- Aluminum. Maximum durability and lightness of construction. The excellent solution for cold glazing, including panoramic.
- Plastic. PVC is a good heat retainer, ideal for creating a warm room which could be transformed into another living room if wished.
- Wooden. Universal material for all types of glazing. Is not cheap, but it is fully repaid by the natural tendency to thermoregulation and beauty.
- Combined. There are different combinations of wood and aluminum, and each has a number of advantages. more about this in the respective sections
The price of balcony glazing also depends on its configuration, which determines the complexity of the production of the necessary elements for their installation. This applies to models with an overhang, complex shapes and a number of other features. Additional insulation, finishing and other work may be required. You can count on us, because we’re turnkey. There are many different classifications, but conventionally can be divided according to the following parameters:
- Glazing volume. It can be partial or full. In most cases, it used to be the practice when the bottom was performed deaf. Nowadays the whole area can be made of glass, which makes the construction more expensive.
- The required temperature regime. There are warm and cold glazing. Even from the name it is clear that the first option turns the room into a full-fledged living room, while the second only protects from the weather.
- Style and design. There are models with or without frames, the same goes for the mullion. Uses Regular and panoramic glazing. The profile can be ordered in different colors and textures, with an aged or other surface.
- How to open. Available in swing, sliding and tilt&turn versions. Regular design is cheaper, but the other two are more expensive. In this case, the first option allows you to save space, and the second gives the opportunity to ventilate.
There are other factors that affect the cost. This applies to hardware, energy-saving, moisture protection and other characteristics. Of great importance is the manufacturer of the profile and insulating glass units. In any case, we can order glazing of balconies at low cost. In this case you will definitely get quality goods and services, which is confirmed by certificates and warranty on all work performed.