How To Saw Chipboard Without Chips

Electric Saws

How to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips? How to repair chips after cutting?

When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard is very disliked. Crumbles. Chips are formed along the edge. How to cut a chipboard without chips or repair chips? (ten)

Please tell me how to spray laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips?

When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard is very disliked. Crumbles. Chips are formed along the edge. How to cut a chipboard without chips or repair chips?

Unfortunately, I have never been able to beautifully repair chips after cutting along the edge of the slabs. Of course, if the laminated chipboard is planned for painting, then the edge can be putty, sanded, the slab itself can be covered with alkyd primer, the edge can be glued with a construction bandage with access to the laminated surfaces from the edge, the construction bandage can be patched, sanded and painted. This will create a perfect edge. about edging chipboard for painting

But if you plan to use laminated chipboard, then this method is NOT suitable. It should be dusty so that there are no chips. Dust so that there are no chips, it is quite difficult without special equipment. Circular Saw Not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminate up to half a meter along the board. And any other tool gives an edge even worse.

It is rumored that chipboard can be sprayed without chipping with a hacksaw with a very fine tooth, or even with a jigsaw with a metal file with a very fine tooth. But it does NOT work for me.

I saw chipboard, if necessary. Get a good edge, like this: marking. I run the mowing line along which the spray will go. I put a metal ruler along the mowing line. Fastening it with clamps. The cutter cuts the laminate along the lines of the intended cut. The slots are made deep and wide enough (slightly wider than a hacksaw or circular disk). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times, until I cut through the cover completely. I do it from both sides. It is very important to correctly markup, so that the markings on top and the markings below match. After that, I already saw, usually with a hand hacksaw on wood. But I already got used to getting into the slot and with a circular.

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1.1 Varieties and features of machines

Three groups of equipment:

  • Lung. Simple in design and affordable machine. It lacks some additional options (special clamps, additional stops, etc.), and has a small size. The device is designed for load up to 5 hours. Suitable for small batch production.
  • The average. The standard device is designed to operate for 8-10 hours. Has all the necessary elements (tables, additional supports, rulers and stops). Designed for industrial applications.
  • Heavy. The industrial model, which is equipped with new technologies and has the most robust design. It can be used for 16-20 hours. This is a great option for large enterprises.
  • A branch pipe that removes shavings and sawdust and connects a dust removal system;
  • Clamps for secure placement of chipboard on the table;
  • The swivel ruler and corner stops are responsible for cutting at the required angle and without marking;
  • Frame with a stop foot to handle long workpieces;
  • Ball and roller carriages.

To make shaped parts and grooves, an edge machine is used.

PVC edge gluing 0.4 mm on the machine

An edge mill (trimmer) is used:

  • For chamfering;
  • For rounding or creating a complex edge profile;
  • To form grooves along the edge;
  • For fitting veneer;
  • To create a drawing.

An edge router can be mistaken for a less functional version of a router. But the trimmer has its merits.

The edge cutter, also known as the edge cutter, has a low power (450-720W). Compactness and low weight allow you to maneuver the tool without much effort.

A special drying machine is used for laminating chipboard.

During production, it is important to evenly distribute the load in order to increase the wear resistance of the finished board.

The paper is made in impregnating machines. THESE devices undergo the lamination process. The finished paper is treated with resin and a decorative film is obtained, which, under the influence of the press, becomes plastic-like and is suitable for DIY lamination.

During lamination, the prepared board is firmly connected to the paper.

Chipboard lamination on the machine

Drilling machines are used to create holes.

  • Horizontal drilling;
  • Vertical drilling;
  • Single-spindle;
  • Multi-spindle.

Drilling and grooving machine. Equipped with a spindle with a chuck, where a drill with a carriage is inserted. The handle allows you to move the spindle along the axis of the drill, and the carriage moves in the transverse direction. With this machine, you can drill longitudinal grooves. This is possible due to the fact that the slot drill has side edges.

A drill for wood (from 10 mm) for a drill must have a hex shank to avoid turning. The thinner the drill, the shorter it will be, otherwise even slight pressure can break it. A 10 mm drill can be up to 45 cm long, while a 12 mm drill will already be 60 cm.

Forstner’s drill is especially popular in furniture making. It allows drills blind holes with flat, even and smooth bottoms.
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2.2 DIY cutting machine

The main working component is a cutting block. It consists of two saw blades, an electric motor and a bell (connection to a chip vacuum cleaner). Do-it-yourself kitting of machines involves the use of a factory model of the block (homemade equipment may have problems in operation).

Components for do-it-yourself panel saws:

  • Bed. tubular construction with adjusting knives;
  • The desktop must have a perfectly flat surface, without defects;
  • Clamps;
  • Carriage (in the manufacture of an I-beam or two round pipes)
  • Protective covers.
  • Welding machine;
  • Angle Grinder;
  • Electric drill;
  • Measuring device.

First you need to make a bed (we use pipes with a square or round section).

Homemade panel saw

Cutting them according to the scheme and attach them to each other with a clamp. Then we start welding. To make the structure more rigid, you can install profiles between the legs of the bed.

Stages of making a machine with your own hands:

  • Movable carriage. Install guides. You can use a beam or two round tubes. The carriage structure should be equipped with rollers for smooth movement.
  • Desktop. At the base. steel sheet 3 mm. We make the working surface from a chipboard sheet.
  • Clamps. large area lever mechanisms.

At the end of the assembly, connect the cutting unit to the chip suction.

How to cut chipboard without chips

In this material, we will touch upon such a topical issue for the garages who deal with laminated chipboard furniture, how to cut chipboard without chips. In fact, the question is quite topical, because the professional equipment (panel saw), which is used for cutting in furniture shops, costs about a million rubles, which is not affordable for everyone, and the area for its placement should be slightly more than the standard 18 sq. Meters. A feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades (the first is a small scoring and the second is the main one, following exactly along them). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?

The most optimal, in my opinion, replacement is a plunge-cut circular saw complete with a guide rail. Here we will talk about her today.

Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw. this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.

Professional models (for example, Festool saws, saws even better, but also cost 5 times more).

So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a conventional one? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with depth stops. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the cutting depth, in addition, the “head” returns to its original position on its own in the absence of operator pressure. Secondly, these are the obligatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly. a rigid structure that excludes backlash (the cut goes strictly in one place).

The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, this is a tape made of hard rubber. the black strip on the right)

The tape is pressing against the laminate, do not allow any pieces to come off where the saw blade teeth come out. The tire also has grooves for fixing to the workpiece with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).

By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinter inserts on the side opposite to the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.

The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does NOT move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from standard F-shaped ones. Price, by the way, too).

All these features allow you to cut in two passes. The first. shallow cuts the top layer of the laminate. The second is to cut through to the full depth. At the same time, there is no more material in the place where the tooth exits the workpiece, therefore there is nothing to tear out, respectively, chips are NOT formed. This is all in theory. Let’s see how this is all done in practice.

The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use the carpentry square).

We draw a line marking by combining these risks.

We set the guide rail along the mowing line so that the edge of the anti-splinter tape is aligned with the markings.

Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it. the tape on the tire will help). On a vaulted piece, they are Possible due to the lack of an insert on the saw itself.

You can, of course, get dusty, put the chipboard letter on the workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do this, although with large pieces this may be the only correct method).

How To Saw Chipboard Without Chips

The bus is attached to the workpiece with a pair of F-shaped clamps inserted into special grooves on the bus.

We take dust in our hands and set 11-12 mm on the depth regulator, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the tire itself “eats” about 5 mm).

We put dust on the tire, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protruding on the tire.

We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that a small amount of chips on the part of the workpiece uncovered with the tape is.

And one more photo from a different angle.

We change the depth by 35-40 mm and make a second through cut, and without changing the position of the tire.

Having removed the tire, we see a fairly accurate cut, which does not require additional processing.

Separately photographed the part after removing the tire from above

And from the underside.

By the way, the bottom cut is traditionally “cleaner” because in this place the teeth of the disc only cut into the material, they pull it out at the exit.

I will also note one more important fact. Work with sharp discs. The disc used in this lesson is already pretty “tired” and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk, there would be no chips at all.

In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the cutting quality itself is strongly influenced by the material being cut. There are harder coatings and more durable coatings. In this example, boards of 16 mm laminated chipboard Lamarty were used. one of the best domestic boards. Chipboard Egger or Kronospan are much more susceptible to chipping, and I would most likely not have such a result with this disc.

All these moments come with experience, it’s up to you to get a divorce to buy this device.

In principle, it is possible to cut in “two passes” and ordinary Circulars with self-made guide rails, the main thing is that the sole DOES NOT dangle, but it is less convenient to do this than plunge saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the cutting depth.

Overview of models and characteristics of panel sawing machines for sawing chipboard

The panel saw is the main type of equipment used in the manufacture of furniture.

Panel saw T60 CLASSIC

The machines carry out cutting of chipboard, chipboard, MDF and fiberboard. Their main property is the accuracy of cutting, on which the quality of finished furniture and the creation of a beveled edge depend.

Machine for sawing slabs. Vertical or horizontal?

Modern technologies do not stand still. This is especially important in the furniture industry. Each company is interested in the efficient and quality performance of its work. Since the demand for furniture products tends to constantly increase, production requires high-quality and fast work.

Order chipboard spray now.

And you will receive quality work at the most favorable price in the city!

1.Convenient location of the sawing shop

FREE nesting card with minimal leftovers

Fast implementation of the task

Particleboard is a very common material for use in the modern furniture industry and requires special attention. Wood-based panels have their own quality characteristics and can be used in many production points.

But working with chipboard will not bring good results if you DO NOT use high-quality equipment when processing it. Outdated tools will NOT be able to produce the desired result. And they are NOT competitive at this time, because there are many new and highly effective devices.
To help enterprises in this industry, various special wood-shaving equipment comes. One of the types of this equipment is a machine for sawing chipboard.

2.1 Panel saw JET. JTSS-3200

1 Principle of equipment operation

Equipment for working with wood:

  • Cutting machine;
  • Cutters for edge processing;
  • Device for laminating plates;
  • Drilling machine.

The design of the machine is responsible for its functionality. how efficiently the sawing process will take place. Main components:

  • Stanina. This is the basis for which all mechanisms are fixed. The more stable the base, the more accurate the cut will be. Heavy beds eliminate any vibration and vibrations. this is the key to accurate cutting.
  • Sawing unit (consists of two discs). The small diameter scoring disc is located at the front of the unit and prepares the workpiece. The second blade is designed for full cutting of the material.
  • Work tables. A node is located on the first stationary table. The second formatting table is movable and feeds material onto the disc. The third table supports the cut pieces and acts as an additional support for the part.
  • Carriage. This is a machine mechanism that allows the formatting table to move. It would be better to use an aluminum carriage. Its low weight will allow you to move the table effortlessly.
  • Stops and rulers. The elements are located on the tables and place the chipboard blank in the required position.

SILKIN panel saw

The principle of operation of the machine: for sawing chipboard, the workpiece is installed on the left stationary table to the adjustable stop and the required length is measured. Then the saw unit is put into operation. When the disc has reached the required speed, the table is moved forward. Thus, the workpiece is fed to the disc, where the desired piece is sawn off.

Basic machine settings:

  • Workpiece position;
  • Cut depth;
  • Cutting angle.

2 Panel saws for chipboard processing: model overview

Italian company ITALMAC (Omnia-3200BR). All saws come with a one-year warranty. The middle class model can work 8-10 hours. Great for furniture production. The presence of additional tables and adjustable saw speed made this machine universal. Suitable for sawing various chipboard sizes.

Bulgarian company Brassa. Cutters are suitable for full work shifts.

Brassa S315. designed for large workpieces. Ideal for cutting parquet, chipboard, MDF. The machine is equipped with an additional metal support, which allows it to handle large and heavy workpieces.

American company HighPoint. All devices have additional options and accessories.

Panel saw Brassa S 315

Highpoint STS3200. The “business class” representative, intended for a full shift. The device allows you to adjust the speed of rotation of the saw blade. Thanks to this function, materials with different hardness can be processed. The carriage (3 years) and the saw unit (2 years) are warranted.

PROMA PKS-315F. Equipped with durable rails, which are made of chrome-plated steel. There is a degree scale on the angular stop, which allows cutting without preliminary marking.
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Plunge-cut saw MAFELL MT 55 cc MaxiMAX

Professional tool with a huge power reserve, with the ability to set the cutting depth with a high level of accuracy (1mm). The cutting depth is 57 mm, the cutting depth with a maximum inclination of 45 degrees is 40.5 mm

Among the advantages of the saw are:

  • The presence of a large number of additional equipment and the possibility of purchasing saws in various configurations;
  • The ability to adjust the cutting depth with an accuracy of a millimeter even without using a tire;
  • New generation 1.4 kW engine, which provides rotation speed up to 6250 rpm;
  • The presence of a system of stepless adjustment of the saw speed;
  • High-quality assembly and manufacturing materials. All saws of this brand are manufactured in factories in Germany.

Disadvantages of the model:

  • Relatively high cost compared to competitors.

Spray laminated chipboard parquet.

The reason for the chips in this case is the impact of the cutting teeth, but not only in the direction of the cut, but also from the opposite side. (Vibration from the power tool does not allow the parquet to be perfectly level, as a result of which there is a skew of the disc when cutting). The guide in this case not only allows you to cut the chipboard straight, but also prevents the appearance of chips from the side opposite to the cutting direction. When choosing a blade for sawing laminated chipboard, pay attention to the number of teeth, the more teeth, the cleaner the cut.

The best plunge-cut saw for furniture making, no matter the price

Members of our club have analyzed thousands of opinions of submersible dust users in the field of furniture production, collected opinions from hundreds of specialized forums and made an in-depth analysis of the submersible dust market. According to the members of the closed club of furniture makers, the best plunge-cut saw for furniture production is MAFELL MT 55 cc MaxiMAX.

This model is distinguished by high build quality, the most accurate cutting parameters, flexible power adjustment and ease of use. In addition, this model has many equipment options and can be easily upgraded with a range of optional equipment. The only drawback of this model is the high price, which is an order of magnitude higher than the of competitors.

Features and recommendations

Experts and experts advise to carry out this kind of work with the help of electric Jigsaw already after that an ordinary hand hacksaw is too rough. It doesn’t cut the material straight enough. The correct sequence of steps is as follows:

Preparation of tools (ruler, jigsaw, measuring tape, awl or other sharp device for drawing on chipboard)

Addition of THESE tools (if necessary) Square for laying right angles;

Measurement of the desired part (with a reserve of 0.2 cm so that you can fit)

Drawing a line along the ruler;

Actually sprayed along the laid mowing line;

Completion of the saw cut with sandpaper;

With very poor quality of the end. rubbing it with a fine, similar in tonality to chipboard.

Plunge-cut saw Bosch GKT 55 GCE

This saw is one of the most popular models in the domestic market. This model belongs to professional tools and has a wide range of basic functions and various additional functions. Among the main positive aspects of the saw are: a soft start system, the ability to adjust the speed of rotation and a proprietary system that allows you to maintain speed under increasing load. Also, a feature of the model is the ability to perform a perpendicular cut, as well as an oblique cut.

Among the advantages of the saw are:

  • Premium quality materials of workmanship and assembly. All Bosch saws are manufactured in factories in Germany;
  • High quality of the “native” disc, which is able to provide an accurate cut without chips;
  • Precise setting of rulers for the best indicators of depth and cutting angle;
  • The possibility of increasing the warranty period from 1 to 3 years when registering the instrument on the manufacturer’s website;
  • The ability to use non-original guide rails from “Makita” or “Devalt”, which have a more affordable cost.

The disadvantages of the model include:

  • The need to purchase guide rails and the need to select new tires with sizes 800, 1100, 1600;
  • Inconvenient tilt angle adjustment, which is typical for almost all models dust.

Advantages of submersible over conventional circular saws

The most common and critical mistake novice furniture makers make is choosing a conventional circular saw instead of a plunge-cut saw. The motivation for this choice is quite clear. significant savings. Nevertheless, these savings can create a lot of problems and inconveniences in the process of work. The most common disadvantages of a classic saw for furniture production are low cutting accuracy, frequent material chips and questionable ease of use.

Arguments for submersible dust include:

High cutting accuracy is ensured by pillars, which enable precise positioning of the saw.

  • The ability to cut in close proximity to the wall

This opportunity is provided by the location of the disc on the side of the sole.

By using a tire and eliminating lateral play with eccentrics, it is possible to achieve maximum cutting accuracy.

  • Cleanliness of the production workshop

A classic circular saw scatters sawdust throughout the room and this problem cannot be solved even with a vacuum cleaner. Submersible models in tandem with a vacuum cleaner work extremely cleanly, sawdust can only be seen at the ends of the cuts, where the blade comes out of the end point of the cut.

  • Versatility and high power ratings

Submersible models have a minimum power of 1200 W, which is enough for prompt cutting of any workpieces from laminated chipboard. In addition, such models are convenient for processing, for example, plexiglass and other materials.

Most Popular Plunge Saws

Chipboard without chips with a hand router.

Before processing furniture parts with a milling cutter, you must drink them with a margin of 3-5 millimeters on each side to be processed. Unlike previous sawing methods, the hand router leaves behind a perfect surface. Chipping after such processing is a rarity and at the same time, it turns out, maintain the perpendicularity of the cut. So far we have considered only STRAIGHT sawing, but when it comes to sawing various kinds of circles and rounded, then alternatives to the jigsaw and milling cutter are comments. The disadvantages of using a router include the need for skills in working with it. In them we will talk in other articles.

Plunge-cut saw Makita SP 6000

A professional tool, which has a flexible adjustment of the cutting depth, as well as the angle of inclination of the blade. The cutting depth is 56 mm, with a tilt of 40 degrees, the cutting depth decreases to 40 mm.

Among the advantages of the saw are:

  • A competent design of the disc, which allows cutting at a distance of 1.8 centimeters from walls or other stops;
  • Good electronic equipment, including a soft start system, the ability to adjust the speed, the function of electronic engine braking and built-in protection against overheating of the tool;
  • Extremely high precision and quality of cut, which is one of the best in the class of submersible dust;
  • The optimal ratio of cost and quality indicators;
  • Power 1.3 kW at 5200 rpm.

Disadvantages of the model:

  • Weak sole construction and anchorage of the sole to the base by 4 plastic screws, which is not enough for comfortable operation. Often, sole failure due to poor attachment is NOT covered by the warranty;
  • Difficulty finding a good quality tire for this model.