Different brand name motor blocks manufactured by famous brands differ from each other by the design of the built-in ignition system. To know how to properly adjust this important element, we offer a video. Which contains the correct procedure for adjusting the ignition system on the most common models of power tillers.
For Neva brand power tillers:
For agricultural machines of Ural brand;
For power tillers of the brand Salyut:
For Honda agricultural machines:
For the model range produced by Cascade:
For power tillers of MTZ brand:
Order of work with the Krot motocultivator
7.1. Starting up MK. Set the clutch lever 25 (on the right handle) in the “Off” position; unscrew the nut 28 of the fuel cock for 2. 3 turns counterclockwise; move the choke lever 18 one-third of the way clockwise; press the float stop 22 of the carburetor and hold for 10 seconds. 30 sec. (until fuel appears); pull the starter cord 7 by 40. 120 mm (until the pawls engage), then pull sharply in the direction of the axis of the thrust collar of the starter housing. After starting, warm the engine at low speed; in warm weather 2. 3 min, cold 8. 10 min. WARNING! Deviation of cord from recommended direction of pull will cause premature wear of funnel bushing and cord. Pulling the cord all the way out, all the way in is not recommended, t. к. This could cause the starter springs to break.
7.2. Tillage. Lift wheels 1 and lock the axles in the holes.
Start the engine. Check that the choke on the carburettor is open, otherwise the engine may stall during milling. Leaving the clutch lever in the “Off” position, move the Throttle lever clockwise. Slowly move the clutch lever from the “OFF” position to the “ON” position to cause the rotors to rotate. Until trained to do so, it is recommended to actuate the clutch when the rotor blades are lifted and do not touch the ground. Working position of the MC and the operator is shown in Fig. 5. The depth of cultivation depends on the position of the opener: the deeper the opener enters the ground, the deeper the cultivation. It is recommended to start tilling the soil with the bolt in one of the middle holes of the opener. The desired working width can be adjusted by mounting two or four rotors When cultivating the soil with 4 rotors, mount additional shields with the fasteners from the packet
1-bolt 150200037 2-washer A6.12.04.026 GOST 11371-78 3-blade 150080018 4-blade 150080016 5-washer 6 Fos. OK. OST 1 11532-74 6-nut 6C OST 1 33017-80 7-bolt 150080038 8-bolt 6-20-C OST 1 31240-86
If the mower unit turns too fast and the working depth is simultaneously reduced, press in the shares and lower them. If the MK does not move forward and the rotors are “burying”, slightly raise the knobs of the MK and move it out of this condition. If the MC is “pulling” to the side of the cultivated area, it means that part of the rotor is walking on the cultivated soil shift the MC in the opposite direction. Do not lift or turn the Mk with the fitted rotors supported on the coulter bar, e.g. к. this may cause deformation of the frames. At longer work with the MC set the clutch lever in the “On” position, lift the locking device 14 and the lever will be locked This allows to not hold the lever during work. To move the lever to the “Disengage” position, press the lever all the way up and release it. When cultivating loose soil make sure that the rotors do not sink completely into the soil, thus overloading the motor. On heavy soils and virgin plots tilling should be carried out in several stages, by layers, each time increasing the depth with the help of the coulter. This provides a good crumbling of the clods and a more uniform soil structure. After finishing work with the MC, release the throttle, disengage the clutch and run for 2 hours. 3 min. idle, then press the stop button “Stop”. Close fuel cock. Carry out maintenance (Section 8). Switching from prime mover to reverse gear and vice versa only when the engine is running with the lever in pos. 17 with clutch lever disengaged pos. 25, т. е. if the output (working) shaft of the MC is not rotating. ATTENTION! If the reverse lever is difficult to engage, briefly engage the clutch, after stopping the rotation of the rotors repeat the engagement of reverse.
7.3. Re-adjustment of MC. When changing the type of work and when operating on different soils, re-adjust the MC. the basic setting is to find the correct coulter position, the number of rotors and the position of the crank arms. Set coulter position after having determined the desired cultivation depth. Work a small patch of soil, note the depth of the rotating blades and set the coulter in the correct position. If the desired depth is not achieved, remove one pair of rotors. To change distance between handles 6, loosen bolts 7 and locking nuts 8 on the clamp 9, set the handles in the desired position, fasten bolts and nuts. To change height of handles, loosen nuts of bolts 17, 18 fixing the lower ends of tubes 16 on reducer, set handles at needed height and fix them.
7.4. Finishing of MC. ATTENTION! First 15 hours of work (working out 9. 11 liters of fuel mixture) is the break-in period. Avoid overloading the MC during this period: cultivate the soil in two. 3 passes at a depth of up to 10 cm per pass. Do not use throttle valve lever more than half of its stroke. Never work for a long period (more than 10 min.) MK at idle rpm, t. к. insufficient cooling of crankshaft bearing on this mode because of low fuel consumption, which can lead to its overheating and jamming.
Service and maintenance of Mole Krot rotary cultivator
8.5. Adjusting V-belt drive. Proper adjustment of the V-belt transmission will ensure reliable operation of the clutch and the necessary longevity of the V-belt. Main tension of the V-belt should be adjusted with the clutch switched off by moving the engine 10 along the frame 25 (arrow D). Before removing screws 21, 24 with washers 20, 22, 23, remove cover 19 and loosen four nuts 26 fixing the motor to the frame. Tension must be at its maximum, but should not cause the rotors to spin. Adjustment can be checked by slowly cranking the engine with the starter motor. Further tensioning is achieved by means of the tensioning pulley by changing the position of screw 4. Before commencing regulation screw 4 should be screwed in up to the stop. In this position, with the engine running, engage the clutch and check the full load operation of the MC. In case of belt slipping increase tension of the pulley by unscrewing screw 4. Tighten the screw 4 with the nut 3. Adjust the position of the stop 13. by loosening the fastening nut. The end stop should not touch the outer surface of the V-belt. Allowable gap AND must be within 1. 3 mm. It is allowed to use V-belt with a crack on the inner diameter. ATTENTION! When fixing the motor, check the alignment of pulleys 11,15 of the V-belt drive. Pulleys must be in one plane. Permissible deviation max. 1 mm. When installing the casing 19 limiting bracket D (on the inner surface of the casing) should not touch the outer surface of the V-belt when locking the lever 1 fixing clamps 2. Allowable backlash B must be within 1. 3 mm.
To inspect the magneto 7 remove the spiral shroud 6. Unscrew handwheel nut and remove cup 2. Install flywheel puller on flywheel, fasten with three screws. Screw the bolt Ml0x20 (from the spare parts list) into puller and remove the flywheel. Carry out visual inspection of magneto, in case of slackening of screws of fastening of magneto and discrepancy of marks “a” and “b” on magneto 7 and a casing 8 to combine them, fasten screws. If it is necessary to dismantle magneto disconnect the electrical connector 3, using a screwdriver to free the wire lugs from the socket magneto plug, unscrew the tip of the plug 5 from the wire 4. Remove magneto 7 with wires from the seat of the crankcase 8, first removing the mounting screws (2 pcs.). Unscrew high-voltage wire from magneto transformer. Reassemble the dismantled parts in reverse order. ATTENTION! At installation of the flywheel to align keyways on a flywheel hub and a trunnion of a crankshaft to make use of the segmented key. tighten the flywheel nut using a torque of 3. 4 kGsm. To avoid breaking the screw of the high-voltage transformer, screw the high-voltage wire into the screw of the magneto transformer 7 to a length of 8. 10 mm. Visually inspect the button “Stop” 1, low voltage wires 2, electrical connector 3, high-voltage wire 4, suppressor resistance 5. In case of insulation damage remove the defect by means of insulation tape. To inspect the spark plug 6, remove the plug with the hood off when the engine is cold. Use the tool enclosed in the inventory. In case of oil, soot or fouling clean the electrodes and cone of the plug, wash the electrodes and cone of the plug in petrol, dry and blow out. Measure the gap between the central and side electrodes. The gap must be within 0.4. 0.6 mm. WARNING! If you have to adjust the gap, do not put pressure on the center electrode, it may damage the electrode or the ceramic cone. Install the spark plug produce, pre-installing the O-ring, screwing in by hand until it stops, followed by the use of a spark plug wrench. When tightening do not apply excessive force. it can tear the threads of the cylinder head.
8.9. Cleaning of soot from cylinder, cylinder head, piston, MC units, lubrication of control cables. To perform these operations, it is necessary to partially disassemble the engine: remove the hood with a bracket; the tip of the high-voltage wire from the spark plug; unscrew the spark plug; remove the fuel tank by removing the screw 21 in the carburetor cap and freeing the carburetor cable from the slot of the air damper, unscrew the four nuts and remove the cylinder head with washers and gaskets; set the piston in the bottom dead center and, lifting the cylinder up, remove it from the studs; disconnect the muffler and carburetor; remove the piston rings, for which to enter under the rings steel or brass plates of thickness 0.2. 0.3 mm and a width of 4. 5 mm. Flush cylinder, cylinder head, muffler, carburetor with fuel mixture, clean cylinder channels and head combustion chamber from soot. If there is a ledge in the upper part of the cylinder bore (at the boundary of the top piston ring) remove the ledge with a sickle-shaped scraper or an abrasive tool, not allowing the damage to the cylinder bore below the ledge. If necessary, grind risks, burrs on the cylinder surface with fine emery cloth rubbed with chalk and coated with oil. Do not remove the small marks. Clean the bottom of the piston and piston ring grooves from carbon deposits, first covering the crankcase opening with a clean cloth. It is convenient to clean piston grooves with old, broken piston ring. Thoroughly wash the cleaned parts with fuel mixture. Check the thermal clearance at the joints of piston rings inserted in the cylinder, and the quality of fit of the piston rings to the cylinder surface. Piston rings should be inserted one after the other into the cylinder to a depth of 8. 10 mm, pushing them through with the bottom of the piston. The gap in the junction of the rings should be 1 mm, not more. If the gap is more than 1 mm piston rings must be replaced by new ones. Reassemble the dismantled parts and components of the engine and MC in reverse order. Install the piston so that the arrow on the bottom faces the cylinder exhaust port, t. е. to muffler. Before installation, lubricate the cylinder mirror with motor oil. Cylinder head fastening nuts tighten evenly crosswise. Replace gaskets if necessary. ATTENTION! Assembly: parts and assemblies of selective assembly: piston, cylinder, piston pin must be assembled considering same color markings on parts surfaces (see Figure 7). appendix 4). Lubricate throttle control cable with grease.
After assembling MK perform adjustment of carburetor controls (Section 8.4.)
8.12. Disassembly and assembly of the starter. If necessary to replace the coil spring 6 or starter cord 2 must be made a complete disassembly. To do this remove the starter from the engine and clean from dust and dirt. Disassembly to produce in the following sequence: Pressing on the disk 13. remove lock 15, then remove parts 8, 14, 13,9, 11, 12, 10,9,8 in sequence. Then remove by turning counterclockwise the coil 7 with a coil spring 6 fixed in it, taking special care because of a possible sudden unwinding of the spring. If the starter cord 2 is broken, release parts of the cord from the spool 7 and the cord holder 4. remembering the ways of fixing the cord in the reel and cord holder. Replace the cord. Before reassembling, lubricate all rubbing surfaces with one of the oils used. When replacing the coil spring 6, carefully insert it into the coil 7, catching the hook of the spring on a ledge in the coil or loop the spring on a tooth in the coil wall. Release the spring from the mounting wire. Check the position of the middle of the hook of the internal coil spring relative to the axis of the central hole of the coil. Between them there should be a distance of 18 mm. If necessary, bend the annealed end of the internal coil of the spring. place the cord 2 clockwise in the groove of the coil 7 not more than one turn and take it outside the housing 1 through the groove in the flanging of the coil. Then drag it through the holes in the housing towards the starter handle, leaving inside the housing loop length of about 200 mm. Put the spool with the spring and the cord on the axis of the body 1. by aligning the hook of the internal coil of the spring with the flanging of the housing bottom. Check fixation of the spring with the body by turning the coil clockwise by hand within 1/4 of the circle. there must be resistance to the spring. Install on the axis of the housing 1 in series parts 8. 9, 10, 12, 11, 9, with the hook of the long end of the spring 11 inserted into the hole of the coil. Hook the short end of the spring insert into the hole disk 13, put the disk on the axis and turn it clockwise to the coincidence of 2 slots with a dog 12. Pressing the disc 13. install parts 14, 8, 15. The axial play between disc 13 and washer 14 should be 0. 1. 0.3 mm. ensured by selecting washers 14. Having secured the housing, take hold of the cord by hand at a distance of 40. 60 mm from the spool groove and, rotating the spool clockwise by the cord, do 6. 7 revolutions, thereby winding the spring 7. With the spool and housing secured, pull the cord all the way to the handle 3. By slowing down the cord and at the same time releasing the spool, allow the cord to slowly wind up on the spool. If the borehole is not fully retracted, you need to wind up the spring one more turn. In the properly assembled starter dogs 12 when pulling the cord should easily extend out from under the disk 13, when you release the cord to retract.
8.13. Adjusting the reversing device. The reversing mechanism on all power tillers is factory set. At that measure the travel of the lever shaft 4 or difference in sizes of distance between the end of the screw 13 and the end of the backstroke cable tip when the backstroke is on and off. On a new motocultivator in a properly adjusted unit, the stroke of the roller should be 22.6 mm, size difference. 12 to 13 mm. If it is necessary to adjust the reversing device, please do the following:. screw the whole length of the adjusting screw into the handle bar;. Set the bracket 16 in the first pair of holes (from the lever mounting axis 17);. start the engine, set the minimum steady speed;. to switch on the reversing gear. If the reverse stroke does not engage, engage it by removing the adjustment screw 13. If necessary, to repeat this method by consecutive rearrangement of the bracket 16 in the 2nd and 3rd pairs of holes, with the prior return of the adjusting screw 13 to the original position. The adjustment is correct, if during reverse gear engagement the gears in the gearbox are engaged and the direction of rotation of the output shaft under load is reversed. No teeth grinding or spontaneous gear shifting. Note. When reverse gear is engaged there may be no reverse gear due to mismatch of gears and teeth. In this case, stop the engine and turn the gears by slowly scrolling the engine by the starter by simultaneously pressing the “Stop” button. Start the engine and repeat the reversing procedure.
With all the simplicity of design, Krot rotary cultivators are extremely sensitive to contamination of separate units, parts, mechanisms and other components of the machine. Many operating problems arise from the late replacement of consumables, disregarding the elementary rules of care for the technique. The ironical motto “Tanks fear not dirt” does not work in this case.
Consider the most frequent problems and breakdowns occurring in the main parts of the cultivator.
The first examples of Mole cultivators had many complaints from the motors, which were unreliable, low service life. Owners of the equipment at their own risk remodeled agricultural machines. Often new engines were installed on the units to replace worn-out native ones from other garden equipment: Forza, Patriot, Sadko, Lifan.
Due to the factory design developments there are models of cultivator with motors Honda GC 120, Honda GC 135, Greenfield, GeoTeck, Subaru Robin EY-15D, Hammerman, INNOMOTOR, BriggsStratton of well-known Japanese, German, American, Hungarian, Italian brands.
Thanks to modern engines, innovative developments, the Mole from the once narrow-functional milling cultivator has become a versatile agricultural machine that is able to perform any agricultural work on the soil, cultivation of crops, as well as transportation of goods, clearing the area.
Therefore, if your Mole is still an old two-stroke engine, urgently change it to a new model and boldly expand the functionality of the unit. The most budget and fairly reliable option is Lifan, “Americans” and “Japanese” will be more expensive, but then the attention to themselves will require much less.
Replacement of the magneto in the Krot cultivator:
Operation of the Mole cultivator with a repaired ignition
From the proper adjustment of the carburetor depends on the consistency of processes at start-up and further operation of the engine. The main function of the carburetor is to create a gas-air mixture, which after ignition drives the heart of the cultivator. the engine. Therefore, it is extremely important to perform its adjustment in accordance with the recommendations of the factory manual. The carburetor already needs adjustment after the first season of operation.
Adjustment consists in setting the coordinated fuel supply and the required number of revolutions. Use the RPM and fuel quality screws to make the necessary adjustments to the carburettor in idle speed mode. In addition, it is important to keep the carburetor clean at all times.
Another reason why the mole tractor does not start, especially after long downtime, can be the appearance of condensation in the carburetor due to temperature changes. In this case, the carburettor must be completely disassembled and cleaned. The carburetor may also not work efficiently due to poor quality fuel.
Мотокультиватор Крот.Motor-cultivator Mole
Mole single axle tractor. Manual. part 6
8-Рычаг1502600029-Валик1502300418.4.1. MK engine has a centrifugal regulator.The regulator function is to maintain the engine speed at the set rpm with the throttle valve lever when the engine load increases or decreases.The regulator is actuated by the rotating masses on the crankshaft and has mechanical override on the carburettor throttle valve.When the engine speed slows down, the throttle plate opens, when the speed increases it closes.Engine set at idle speed 24002600min’-max. speed 45004700min’ at manufacturing.If necessary, the speed can be adjusted when the engine is running and warm.8.4.2. Idle speed adjustment.Check and set clearance 0.2. 0,5 mm between lever8 and gear cover.Adjust idle speed with carburettor screws P-number (in plastic cup) of Fig.7andQ-quality at the bottom of the throttle damper control lever (counterclockwise) as follows:. Reduce speed to minimum steady. Rotate throttle trigger to maximum by ear (after maximum speed drop). Repeat adjustment procedure with P and K screws 2. 3 times.If adjusted correctly, engine should run smoothly in all modes.8.4.3. Maximum engine speed adjustment.Adjustment is carried out with the M screw at the maximum (clockwise) position of the carburettor lever.Decreases rotation speed when turning the screw, increases rotation speed when turning the screw.8.5.Adjusting the V-belt transmission.Correct adjustment of the V-belt drive system is important for safe clutch operation and the longevity of the V-belt.Mainly tension the V-belt when the clutch is disengaged by moving the motor10 (Fig.9) Along the frame 25 (at arrow D).Loosen the four nuts 26 on the engine housing and the frame before removing the screws 21,24 with washers 20, 22,23. Tension must be as high as possible without causing rotation of the motors.You can check the settings by slowly turning the engine with the starter motor.
Belts for Neva power tiller
V-belt drives are mostly used on Neva power tillers. There are a large number of them. Know which belt to use for each power tiller individually.
- Remove the shield, unscrew the two bolts (7) and remove the protective cover from the pulleys (6);
- Remove the reverse belt (3) by removing the spring (8) by loosening the bolt (2) of the guide pulley;
- Unscrew the screws (5) holding the bracket (a);
- Set the position of the bracket so that the pins allow you to remove the belt (10) of the front pass from the pulley;
- Put a new belt in its place (first it is put on the gear pulley, then on the engine pulley);
- Reassemble in reverse order.
Check tension of belts!
When the clutch levers are released, the belts should be free to slacken and the gear pulley should not rotate when the engine is running.
Frequent causes of ignition system failure
Often a mole cultivator can not start because of a number of other problems, all of them are related to the ignition system of the machine. Faults include:
- If there is no spark, the spark plug is defective and must be replaced as soon as possible. Often the cause of this malfunction is a violation of the gap between the ignition coil and the magnetic wire;
- Another frequent breakdown. a violation of the connection of the gasoline hose. It is necessary to carefully inspect this element and check its fastening with other nodes of the cultivator;
- The next malfunction is the contact of the magneto wire and the flywheel plates. You will be required to achieve a gap between these elements.
Experts strongly recommend not wasting time and effort on restoring the old candle. It is best to immediately go to the car market or a hardware store and buy a new part.
Walking tractor “Mole” appeared in the early 80s of the last century and immediately gained popularity among villagers and dacha owners. This is not surprising, because with the help of this agricultural technique appeared the possibility of mechanized tillage, as well as planting, care and harvesting.
For more than 30 years of its existence, the “Mole” has been modified more than once. Its parts, such as the motor, gearbox, handles, cutters and other equipment (including accessories), have been improved. After going through a difficult path of modifications, we no longer received the original single-axle tractor, which has some limitations in the work, but a multifunctional motorized device, with which you can easily perform the following field work:
- plowing the soil;
- cutting beds;
- potato planting;
- climbing plants;
- weeding; weeding the weeds;
- mechanized harvesting of potatoes;
- transportation of bulk and prefabricated cargo;
To perform all of the above work, you need to buy the appropriate tools. Read more in an article about the accessories of a power tiller Mole on our website.
No matter how powerful your machine is, no matter how much you worry, sometimes it still needs repair: the engine does not start, the engine warms up or some other malfunction To know how to fix a cultivator, you need to understand its structure.
How to check the ignition coil on a power tiller?
Most often, the test of this important element of the ignition of a motor-block is carried out using a known working test sample. If in the process of testing it turned out that with the installation of the sample everything started to work as it should, it means that the regular ignition coil of the motoblock is defective.
But not everybody has a test sample handy. If you do not have one, you should try other ways to check the built-in coil. Before this, you need to rule out any breakdowns that may appear in the starter button and high-voltage wiring. In addition, the user should carefully study the wiring diagrams, which indicate the location of the elements of the ignition system.
- measuring the resistance of the integrated ignition coil. It is worth noting that it is not always used by users of agricultural machinery. First, the operator must know the exact parameters of the resistance created by the regular coil. Secondly, in addition to the inductor coil, the ignition system has semiconductor components required to generate the desired electrical impulse. Problems with all these elements can be identified only when they are heated. In order to properly test the ignition coil, it is necessary to disconnect the cap and the armature wire from it. Knowing the exact resistance parameters of the built-in element, the operator will be able to understand which part of the system is faulty;
- checking the spark generated by a special device. it must be connected to the place of the electrical circuit break between the high-voltage wires of the standard coil and the spark plug;
- Testing the coil with an integrated spark plug by unscrewing the plug and placing it carefully against the cylinder. Then you need to pull the starter handle and pay attention to the spark that forms between the spark plug factory contacts. It should be noted that this method of checking the available coil is approximate. the spark plug in this case is not under load, due to which there is no compression in the ICE cylinder. As a result, the standard flywheel of the motor will rotate faster.
Each of these methods gives a rough indication of the condition of the ignition coil. It should be remembered that it is possible to find the exact cause of the failure of the part with the use of specialized testers, which are available only in specialized workshops.