Chainsaw chain sharpening with your own hands
The chain tooth planes the wood like a planer, and the chip thickness is adjusted by the height of the stop.
Intense sawing will cause the chain to dull quickly. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly dulls when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil once or twice with the tire, and work can be stopped. The shavings become fine and the saw stops digging into the wood.
The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. The service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if only small chips fly out of the cut instead of coarse thick chips.
In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not drink with a blunt or defective saw chain. The consequence is high stress in the body, high cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means reduced productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear of all parts of the chainsaw.
Chain teeth parameters
To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are angled. The back of the tooth falling back at an angle forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.
The backward tapering blade of the tooth forms the back angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of chips.
The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Front angles in different types of chains vary from 60 to 85 °.
The back angle of the upper blade characterizes the tilt of the upper blade back.
This angle is measured along the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the back corner of the top blade. This is the most important corner. The clearance angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, the correct value is obtained by adhering to the second prescribed values.
Grinding angle or entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.
The sharpening angle can be changed, depending on the application. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the angle of sharpening when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw blade and less vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (except for rip chains where this angle is 10 °).
The rake angle, the sharpening angle and the upper blade angle change when sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.
A depth gauge is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.
Here the distance of the depth gauge depends on the penetration depth of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and, thus, productivity. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values will lead to an increased tendency of the chainsaw to kickback, too much excitement and chain vibration. Low values lead to a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs periodic filing. After 5-10 chain sharpenings.
The round file holder has a mowing line that allows it to be correctly positioned along the chain. The holder is installed on the sharpened tooth in accordance with the line orientation. In this case, the plate itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.
The use of a holder ensures that the file will fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different tool holders for different chain pitches. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter. Use only special saw chain files.
Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, keeping the position of the holder and pressing the file to the sharpened edge, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. Do not try to press too hard on the file, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth of one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth of the second direction.
When sharpening all teeth, file the same number of strokes at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth Must be of the same length. The different length of the teeth is a prerequisite for the uneven gait of the chain and the formation of cracks in it. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth Must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.
After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground. To do this, a template is superimposed on it in such a way that the limiter falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slots is grinded with a flat file.
The principle of using the second set for sharpening chainsaws is NOT different from the first, although its design is different.
A round file is also used to sharpen the cutting tooth, and the depth gauge is used to sharpen the depth gauge. Flat. A special template provides parameters for sharpening both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain in such a way that it falls into its slot. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the lateral edges of the template.
When stitching the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper falls into the slot, near which it says SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first attachment, seam with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.
General rules for sharpening chainsaw chains. Chainsaw chain sharpening machines
Stihl produces two modifications of hand-held machine tools. The stationary FG 2 and the mobile FG 1, mounted directly on the tire. There are analogues of less well-known companies, comparable in price with the simpler devices described above.
The working part of these devices is structurally reminiscent of onion dust, into which a round long file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 Not only sharpen the chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the top edge of all teeth to the same size. For the smallest tooth, it is taken as the control one. A rather complex configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is done with 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, keeping all the settings for it that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same sharpening parameters for all teeth. When seaming the stopper, the round file changes to a flat file.
The electric chain sharpener is simple and convenient to use. It has an adjustment system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the disc exactly to the sharpened edge. There are machines that automatically clamp the vice when the disc is lowered onto the chain.
The service life can be increased by alternating manual sharpening with the introduction of a special machine. The latter allows you to accurately align the sharpening angles on the machine. The seam depth should NOT be large.
It is necessary to observe safety measures that allow you to spray wood of any size with maximum efficiency and with a minimum level of danger to humans:
- Before assembling the chain tool and installing the headset, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the rules of use. This is due to the fact that each tool has its own characteristics.
- It is necessary to carry out work with the introduction of a saw in gloves and goggles.
- For work, it is recommended to choose tight-fitting clothing made from natural dense materials and the most reliable footwear.
- Sprays wood with the introduction of a chainsaw, it is necessary in a stable and safe position, while the material itself must also be located as steadily as possible. Installing a toothed stop on the log will help ensure stability.
- During operation, dust must be held with both hands, constantly monitor the cutting process.
Modern chainsaws are used in domestic and industrial environments. At the same time, it is important to maintain the productivity and high efficiency of the tool, which directly depend on the state of the sharpened chain set.
Home »Chainsaw Sharpening Machine
This method is appreciated for the ability to perform work in any, even field, conditions, the simplicity of the procedure and the absence of the need to use an expensive tool. A tool with an exceptionally round section will help to properly sharpen the chainsaw chain with a file. To determine the parameters of the file, you need to know the dimensions of the saw itself, in particular, it is required to determine the pitch of the teeth. A flat variation is allowed for processing the depth gauge of the guide tooth.
Templates or patterns will give the right direction to the tool and can make work easier. They must be fixed to the treated area. After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the procedure according to the recommendations of specialists:
- Secure the chain to the clamp.
- Align the chain file to the template.
- Grind the teeth in one direction at the selected angle. The latter should NOT change. The working tool itself should be held so that its tip protrudes only a fifth of its thickness. You need to move the file as smoothly as possible, the movements should be light. The reverse must be done idle. It is recommended to rotate the tool periodically to reduce the risk of wear on the sharpening side.
- The angle of inclination of the tool should be right, and the angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain should be horizontal. Sharp, while its changes are allowed in the range from 10 to 30 °. The smallest tooth in the row should be taken as a basis.
- The tire is inverted and do the same job for the teeth that go in the opposite direction.
Has such a method and small disadvantages. In particular, a lot of time is needed. But on the other hand, it will not be necessary to purchase expensive equipment or special tools.
Chainsaw chain sharpening machine.
Have a nice time of the day everyone! ;))) Acquired almost yesterday such a machine for sharpening chains of chainsaws
How to sharpen with an angle grinder angle grinder
When sharpening the chainsaw of an angle grinder, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of sharpness of the chain, Treat the drive sprocket with machine oil. over, this method has one significant advantage. It is not necessary to remove the chain attachment from the saw; the sharpening angle can be visually adjusted.
Although many owners of chainsaws and chainsaws believe that this tool can damage the cutting teeth of the chain, if the work is done by an experienced specialist, then the risk is minimal.
Only a special disc is suitable for working with metal. Its diameter must be at least 2.5 mm. In this case, it is recommended to select an already used disc with rounded edges.
Before starting sharpening, you need to insert a wedge of wood between the chain and the lower part of the bar to prevent the headset from moving.
Signs of wear on the chainsaw cutting edge and the required sharpening frequency
The operation of such household equipment requires mandatory compliance with certain requirements. An unsafe event like sharpening chainsaw chains is the right thing to entrust to a professional owner.
First of all, it should be remembered that the processing of the saw blade should be carried out in accordance with the peculiarities of the shape of its tooth. Thus, in modern chain saws, teeth are positioned in two ways: from the side or from the top.
It is important to take into account the angle of sharpening of the chain, since the cutting elements are located to a certain extent, which is almost the main criterion in the implementation of measures for sharpening the cutting edge. The sharpening angle is usually indicated on the packaging.
It is important to understand that the denser the cutting material, the deeper the sharpening angle. As a rule, the craftsmen, who have been seen often and many times, have several chains with different angles of sharpening teeth. For example, for longitudinal sawing of a tree, its value is in the range of 10-12 degrees
The main signs of the need to perform the procedure associated with sharpening the chain are as follows:
- During operation, the tool moves randomly from side to side, regardless of the angle of inclination;
- The speed and efficiency of work drops;
- The wood chips produced by sawing wood differ from the standard appearance and texture;
- Cutting blade not stretched enough.
As for the frequency of the grinding procedure, it cannot be any specific time, the main criterion here is the frequency of operation of the device and its functional characteristics.
Chainsaw sharpening tool can be the second, due to the variety of models of THESE household appliances, as well as different document management technologies, which provide different procedures.
The main tools used to cut a gasoline saw blade:
- File suitable for diameter (its shape can be round or flat and combined patterns are acceptable)
- Machine type;
- Automatic machine working with electricity;
- Standard Bulgarian.
The saw chain is a metal base with series-connected links, which have teeth characterized by cutting properties. You can improve them if you sharpen the chainsaw chain at home, but you must follow the rules and use a tool specially designed for this. The latter can be homemade or factory made.
How to sharpen a chainsaw correctly
Timely and competent do-it-yourself sharpening of chains for a chainsaw will not only allow you to extend the time of using the device, but also save effort and time for processing wood. Signs of sharp tenaciousness is the formation of sawdust of the same size of regular geometric shape. To ensure the desired level of sharpness of the teeth, any device for sharpening chainsaws, for example, any sharpening tool, will do. These are the file, angle grinder and machine.
File and chainsaw. Successful tandem!
Remember to pay attention to each link in the chain. The rule should also be taken into account that the efficiency of the saw is determined by the difference in heights: we are talking about the distance between the cutting teeth and the limiter itself. Differences in height parameters allow the teeth to cut into the tree (usually a stop tooth in its characteristics should be about 0.7 mm below the cutting tooth).
How the chain sharpens a chainsaw. Instructions for action
Do you want to use sawing equipment for a long time? Then Take care of its timely prevention. It is necessary to sharpen the tool as needed.
How to sharpen a chainsaw correctly. We will tell you the tool yourself!
A chainsaw without a normal chain belt is like a machine without a motor. This proven postulate will be confirmed by any tech-savvy person. The chain should always be well sharpened if you want to always use your chainsaw. Otherwise, She will not forgive you for miscalculations. This means, not to give you the accuracy, efficiency and safety of work.
Any professional will attest. Here is the sharpening of the teeth of your tool, even more than from the motor itself, and the end result of such a laborious event as working with a chainsaw will depend. Experienced lumberjacks give the following good advice. Sharpening is necessary as the sharpening sharpness deteriorates. If you have to put in a lot more effort than before, the saw starts to cut as it pleases and changes the angle, brakes your work, then you have a choice. Start sharpening.
Pay attention to the sharpness of the chain and escaping chips. If everything is in order with sharpness and sharpening, then the chips will be almost uniform, and the resulting sawdust. Square shape. If the need for sharpening is ripe, then this will be seen by dust in shavings and sawdust in the form of needles.
Chain sharpening process. Harder than sawing!
Don’t think that everything will turn out so easy the first time. But if you get the hang of it, you will achieve success. The cutting teeth must be sharpened first. For this, a special template is imposed. When sharpening along it, the arrows will indicate the direction of movement. DO NOT use physical force in such cases, but try smooth and precise movements to make even pressing at an angle directly to the saw bar.
Experts remind that the angle of the slope itself in practice can be different and depends on the pitch of the chain. The main thing in such a jewelry and laborious work. Take your time and, alternatively, remember how many movements you made. This practice of counting will allow you not to overdo it in one place and do not forget to perform the same amount of load in another.
Sharpened cutting teeth, it’s too early to rejoice. Ahead Grinding of the stop tooth. A template is also used here (it is better to use a flat file here). As practice shows, if you sharpen without a template, then you can accidentally go beyond the mark, and then your chainsaw will “bite” into the tree and increase vibration when working with the material, which means you can simply forget about such an important characteristic as accuracy.
Things to consider:
If you are already ready to start sharpening, then it is better to do it right away, and not put it off until later. And remember: the frequency of sharpening can vary significantly depending on the bark of the trees. If the bark from the logs is ripped off, then you can not grind the chain so often and, accordingly, it gets dusty longer. Don’t be afraid to use a chainsaw. If your trees and branches are small, you can always use different types of tree pruning tools. So that. Good luck!
In the teeth of the chainsaw
Chainsaw teeth have a specific geometry. You need to understand and know what part of them should be sharpened. In general, the “logic” of cutting wood resembles a plane.
The cutting surface has two edges. One side, the other. Slightly beveled. The cutting depth limiter adjusts the thickness of the chips. Let’s take a closer look. The elements of the cutting-working link are arranged as follows:
- Base with axle holes;
- Tooth scapula;
- Cutting depth limiter;
- Blade end face (placement. Vertical)
- Top edge of the blade (placement. Horizontal);
Sharpened edge Dull After touching the soil
Do not over-grind or change the location of the links. The normal operation of the instrument depends on the identity of their location. Otherwise, increased stress on the chassis, tire and engine is likely. The cut can be crooked. There is also a small chance of breaking the circuit.
How to understand that the chain is dull
- Increased physical effort;
- Sagging (stretching) of the chain;
- Vibration and “braking” cutting passage;
- Inaccurate sawing and change in the type of sawdust (they become uneven with sharp “needle-like” edges, small and dusty). This is already in the test.
“In the opinion of experts and in my opinion too: well sharpened teeth are more important than engine power.”
Why dull? The reasons are generally known, but I will name the main ones:
- Intense or voluminous work;
- Accidental contact with stone, earth, hard knots, etc.;
- Mishandling (broad term).
The design of such a machine is similar to onion dust. Only where the saw blade is located is the round file. With such a machine, it is possible to sharpen and straighten the teeth, adjusting the proportions of the upper edges to the smallest (control) size. The mechanism allows you to accurately set the parameters. After adjustment according to the “control” tooth, sharpening is carried out in two or three movements. And then the transition. To the next tooth.
When it is necessary to grind off the limiter, we change the round file to a flat file.
Advantages of the method: Allows you to sharpen teeth, including those that have lost their original shape, with a high quality, convenient and without large physical costs.
Disadvantages: The price of the tool and the distance from the possible site of the saw operation.
What to choose for sharpening is up to you. This is due to how often you use your chainsaw. Here is the neatness of handling it. Here are the qualities of the chain purchased. And, of course, from the opportunity to spend a certain amount. It is impossible to compare methods, because as the German proverb says. “Apples should be compared with apples”.
We work with a file
The best decision. These are simple gadgets for grinding work. This set includes a round and flat file, special holders, a gauge, a hook for removing chips, etc. Structurally, the “adaptations” may differ, but the functionality has a common logic.
The diameter of the round file is directly related to the chain size:
- – Chains with ø 1.3. Requires a file of ø 4 mm (used much more often)
- – Chains with ø 1.6. Requires file ø 5.2 mm;
- – To sharpen the depth gauge, use a flat file.
- Previously “turned on” the chain brake, firmly clamp the tire of the chainsaw in pressure (firmly clamped saw. The key to successful sharpening)
- Set the template so that the “arrow” is directed to the “nose” of the tire. Be sure to Mark (with chalk) the tooth from which you started sharpening, otherwise you can go along the second circle;
- Sharpen in the direction of the arrows. Remember, there is a special factory notch on each tooth of the chain. It indicates the maximum sharpening angle.
- In addition to the cutting tooth, there are stops on each link. Their sharpening is carried out as needed. This is necessary when, as a result of sharpening, the height of the tooth decreases, and problems arise in the operation of the chainsaw. As a rule, the limiter is sharpened after 2-3 sharpening of the teeth;
“If you have skills in sharpening, it is better to start with inexpensive chains.”.
- The file should NOT extend beyond the top of the cutting edge by more than 1/5 of the working area of the file. The pressure is carried out with the same effort;
- The movement of the grinding tool is performed in one direction “away from you”, and the number of movements for each tooth should be equal;
- To sharpen a vertical plane, the position of the file must be at right angles;
- For sharpening a horizontal plane, file position, at an angle of 20-30 °
- If there are teeth of different heights, a reference point. The smallest.
Pluses: Ability to “charge dust” in the field. At the same time it’s cheap.
In the beginning in horror stories
If you are dusty with a stupid chainsaw, you will get three negative factors:
- Below is the efficiency of your process. For example, instead of two cubes, spraying one (at the same time)
- Expose the mechanism to intense wear, with the risk of destruction of the drive sprocket and tire;
- Get increased fuel consumption;
There is also a fourth, Perhaps not so significant factor. “Torn” saw cut.
And of course, you will get up more, you will (perhaps) be angry with yourself, like “what a fool to me, and not sharpen it in advance, now suffer.
Here is a test question for you (photo on the right). Guess what kind of shavings “came out” from under the sharp and dull chain? (The answer will be below).