§ 17. Tapping pipe threads by hand
In case of small volumes the external threads on pipes are threaded manually using pipe tongs and expandable and fixed dies. To do it, pipes are clamped in the clamp, the end of the pipe is filed to remove scale and then the threaded part is smeared with olive oil or sulforesol. Clupp with sliding dies is put on tube and guide dies are brought close to the tube by light strikes of a hammer on the faceplate handle and fixed by locking screws. Cutting blades are fixed in the same way, taking into account faceplate risk. Then start turning the clamp clockwise while pushing it at the same time.
body, 2. clamping screw, 3. cutting dies, 4, c. clamping rings, 5. upper faceplate, 6. lower faceplate, 7. guide dies
There are four slots for cutting dies 3 on one side and three slots for guide dies 7 on the other side of pipe clamp body 1. Cutting and guide dies are brought closer together and apart by plates 5 and 6 fixed on the body by clamping rings 4 and 8. Face plates have spiral grooves in the planes, adjacent to the body, and the die pins are positioned in them. When rotating the faceplate the pins slide along the grooves and dies get closer (when the faceplate is rotated to the left) or get separated (when the faceplate is rotated to the right). After installing dies in the required position, fix the faceplate with clamping screws 2. clamping plate.
Pipe tongs are made with two sets of cutting dies: dies of one set for threading of 15 and 20 mm diameter and the second set for threading of 25, 32, 38 and 50 mm diameter.
Radial single or double sided dies are used with the pipe tongs. Dies are made in sets of 4. Each dies is marked with a diameter and a serial number from 1 to 4. The same numbers are stamped on each hole in the body where dies of the corresponding numbers are inserted. If dies are inserted into the sockets with different numbers, the claw cannot thread properly.
The advantages of pipe tongs are the strength of their design and the cleanliness of the threads produced. Disadvantage. weight of the tool and the need for meticulous maintenance.
When cutting pipe threads of 50 mm diameter the dies must be repositioned by turning them through 180°, i.e. е. Turn the short side (from the stud) inside the clevis.
handle, 2. body, 3. hard cover, 4, 6, 9, 10. screws 5. “patch. 7. setting marks, 8. guiding flange, 9. straightening flange sleeve
Clips are used for cutting pipe threads with diameters of 15-32 mm (fig fig 9). 37, a) with fixed dies. Blades are fed with screws 4. Handles 1 rotate the clamp. For correct setting of the tool on the pipe there are sleeves interchangeable for each diameter of pipe, which are placed in the guide flange 8 and fastened by the screw 10. Guide flange with bushing 11 is attached to the body with screws 9.
Slit dies (fig 2). 37, b) consist of two halves. Each diameter of pipes has a separate set of dies. The dies are inserted into the socket in the housing 2 (see Fig 3). Fig. 37, a) according to number of dies and socket and set with screws 4 according to marks on dies and body for each thread diameter. Thrust cover 3 is put on dies and fixed with screws 6.
Pins with fixed dies are available in two sizes. for tapping 15 and 20 mm diameter. for tapping 25-32 mm diameter. The advantage of the non-sliding dies is their light weight, easy design and maintenance as well as the possibility of quick die changes.
15, 2 and 25 mm diameter clips are used for tapping in awkward conditions. Replaceable dies die head is fastened in the tool body. The ratchet wheel is mounted on the lower part of the head, which rotates the die head. Two ratchets with closed slots are set in the body. The head of the cluppet rotates by tangential movement of the handle.
the tube is clamped in the clamping tool so that the protruding end of the tube to be tapped is short. The long end of the pipe can bend when threading. End of pipe end to be tapped should be at 90° to the pipe axis. The tongs are mounted on the pipe with the guide dies or guide rings facing forward so that the cutting dies are 1-2 strands on the pipe. Oil the tube at the place of threading in order to cool down the dies and make clean threads. Before threading with the pipe tongs you must verify that the cutting dies are set correctly, i.e. е. Does the die number match the socket number? in the body.
To thread the pipe, the tongs are rotated and at the same time pushed forward. In pipes up to 25 mm diameter you thread the pipe in one pass and in pipes over 25 mm diameter in two passes. The dies are pushed close together in the tool using either a faceplate or screws.
After use, pipe tongs shall be disassembled, cleaned of chips and dirt and rubbed with mineral oil. Periodically (once a week) to clean the clevis from oil and dirt, it is recommended to boil it in a solution of 0.5 kg of dry caustic soda per bucket of water.
A Quick and Correct Tapping of Pipe Threads at Home
Since the time when the first metal pipe appeared and to this day, the threaded connection is deservedly considered the only reliable way among detachable variants. There are a lot of ways to thread pipes now, and a lot of tools, but in spite of this, quite often the first-time owner does not know where to start. In this article I will tell you which tool is better for threading pipes for home use and how to thread with your own hands.
How to thread with a tap?
Threading is available to every home or garage technician. You don’t have to go to a locksmith’s shop to do this. Watch a couple of video tutorials. and get the taps to do the inside threading.
DEMO: How to Thread Steel Pipe
Tapping a metal pipe with your own hands
When you install metal pipe for plumbing or heating, you have to thread it. Threaded pipe connection is safe enough and can withstand considerable pressure (if done correctly), so let’s see how to thread a metal pipe with a tap. the pipe with your own hands.
the first thing we cut off with angle grinder or metal saw the necessary piece, be sure to control the flatness of the cut, that one part of the pipe is not bigger than the other. the cut should be perpendicular to the pipe wall.
The pipe must be cleaned of rust, old paint, etc.п., if there is something on it. Next cut the chamfer off the pipe (inside or outside, depending on what kind of threads you cut) to make it easier for the cutter to move. The chamfer can be cut with an angle grinder with a metal disc (→ how to work the angle grinder) or with a petal disc or file.
Metal pipes with a cut chamfer
Cutting of the outside thread on the pipe with a club
It is the same as with the above described bars, but now with a larger diameter, which probably will require some practice and you should either practice or be extremely careful the first time. Just to get a quality thread and the subsequent good connection of the pipe to work first roughing and then finishing (such kits are sold).
The choice of metal of the strip is also important. You have to use proper dies for work with hard alloys, check this when buying.
But, a die is not such a good and powerful tool for threading pipes with your own hands, it is much more convenient to use a clevis.
The clupp is basically the same claw head, only with a guide for smooth running and threading. The clevis is put on the pipe with this guide.
We put and tighten the tongs on the pipe, screwing it in a little bit by hand, then you need to use either a special tool. a ratchet, which is convenient to twist the tongs, but for the household needs will be good and a large adjustable wrench or a gas wrench.
One part of the tube must of course be clamped in a vise. If you are threading pipe in place, make sure it doesn’t rip out somewhere with the force applied to the crescent. The pipe can be fixed with a second gas wrench, but it is better to do it by a second person, t.к. threading with one hand is problematic.
Threading internal pipe threads with a tap
Sometimes you have to thread with a tap. The tap on the pipe and the tap on the inside thread. This is also done using a tap, only with a larger diameter.
To cut a good thread, you should use a minimum of 2 taps. a roughing and a finishing tap. It is important to choose the right tap for the diameter of the pipe. For example, the inner dimeter of the pipe should be greater by the length of the thread of the tap (more precisely, by the thickness of the cut), this is indicated on the tap itself.
Threading is done first with one tap and then with a second tap. The main thing is to keep the tap running perpendicularly and keep it under control. That’s all, good luck threading!
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How to thread a pipe.
With these unpretentious devices threaded by hand, and only if it is impossible to use them, resort to the help of a welder. Not because it’s easier and easier, no. It is more difficult to just equip and deliver a welder to the site. Those dimensions gas and acetylene cylinders, hoses, open fire again. I will not go into detail here, today’s article is not about this.
We have the following situation: we need to cut a steel pipe, and mount, say, distribution of water throughout the apartment, from a modern material (no matter what is polypropylene, metal-base laminate, or copper). For tightness we use a threaded connection, by means of appropriate fittings. In principle, to thread the pipe task, as I said read daily, but I want to bring to your attention ten not insignificant moments. Not respecting which, already without welding can not do.
For a single job suit an inexpensive threading tool, called a die or a larka. To perform the operation you will need a pipe clamp and a pipe clamp. If you have never had to cut the pipe thread yourself before, then the first time to do it qualitatively with a die will be difficult. The slightest misalignment of the tool can spoil the work, so inexperienced masters are better to use a clevis.
How to thread a pipe?
In what cases does it become necessary to thread the pipe? Most often, when replacing plumbing or heating radiators, when the old thread on the pipe does not fit the new products, or it is impossible to unscrew the connection, and part of the pipe with a thread has to be cut with an angle grinder. It is also required when installing piping from scratch in a private home or cottage, when there are new pipes without threading. If you are faced with such tasks and do not know how to thread the pipes, you have two choices to use the services of a plumber or do it yourself.
For reference: for threading a 1/2″ pipe you will need to pay about 120 for a 1/2″ pipe and over 300 for a 2″ pipe.
You say it’s not that big of a deal? Of course, when you only need to thread one end of the pipe. And if the amount of work is much more? Calculate how much you need to pay a master for this not very difficult work. Yes, you will have to wait for it all day, postponing your business As you know, plumbers are not very punctual. You can cope with this task yourself: there is nothing complicated about it. The only problem is that not every owner has the right tool in his arsenal. But even this is solvable hand carving tools today are affordable and easy to use. What to buy? Let’s look into it.
The peculiarities of pipe threading
In pipe threading, 3 types are used: on a lathe, with a die or pipe tongs. In practice, triangular type threads are the most common:
- Inch, with measuring calculations in inches. Threading is characterized by high strength due to the large pitch and large profile. Used for water pipes;
- metric, measured in millimeters, used for pipe fasteners.
A clupp is a tool of limited functionality, it is used for threading pipes only. On lathe machines, the process is as follows: the pipe is clamped in the spindle, then the cut-off cutter removes all unnecessary parts, selects the appropriate pitch, and threads the pipe.
- A cauldron is a device for threading in hard-to-reach places. Similar in appearance to a slotted wrench, except instead of bits for bolts it has a hole to hold interchangeable cutters. The principle of the klupp is similar to that of the die, but instead of a whole washer, it uses its cutting edge, and for turning it uses a mechanism similar to a wrench. There are devices that use adjustable wrenches or open-end wrenches instead of a solid body. Such a device will cost less than a one-piece ratchet, but you can get hurt when using them because the wrench sometimes slips off.