How to twist a drill into a drill

Drill chuck type

Depending on how the drill is fixed, drill chucks can be:

  • a key or toothed chuck fixes the drill with a key, clamps it with three symmetrical “petals”. It is believed that such a mount allows you to more securely hold the drill, therefore it is used in powerful and impact drills. The downside is the inconvenience when replacing the drill, since it is necessary to use a special key. By the way, he can get lost, and then the time for replacement increases several times. Some craftsmen tie the key to the drill;
    twist, drill
  • The quick-clamping mechanism allows for very quick change of drills using only a little manual effort. In terms of reliability, it is not inferior to the key chuck, but still it is used only in drills with low power, designed to work with not very hard materials. In terms of durability, the mechanism is inferior to the key.

Also, when choosing a drill, pay attention to the diameter of the chuck fit. The minimum value may approach 0, but usually it is not necessary to use a grip less than 1.5 mm. The maximum value can be 10-13 mm and even 16 mm for powerful drills.

Drill driver

It makes sense to choose a drill driver when you also need a tool for tightening / unscrewing screws, self-tapping screws and screws. In the screwdriver mode, such a drill has a low rotational speed and high torque, in the drill mode, on the contrary. It is impossible to call the device completely universal, since such a drill is not suitable for drilling concrete and bricks.

Angle drill

As the name suggests, such a tool is designed for drilling holes in the most inaccessible and narrow places, where you cannot get to with a conventional drill. The design of the device is characterized by the presence of a bevel gear and the location of the rotating shaft perpendicular to the body. Such drills, as a rule, have low power and there is no need to talk about any impact function here.

An angle drill is a very specific tool, so it is better to take a regular model and, if necessary, use a special attachment. it is cheaper and in most cases wiser.

Household and professional drills

Like many other power tools, drills are divided into two principal types:

  • household, for home use;
  • professional.

Sometimes a transitional type is also distinguished. semi-professional drills. The principle of operation for household, professional and semi-professional devices is the same. the difference lies in power, weight, price, set of functions and some other features.

A household drill for performing the vast majority of simple household repairs will be preferable. Its advantages, in addition to the lower price compared to a professional tool, include:

  • lightweight design, so it is easier to work with the tool;
  • versatility. Household drills are often equipped with additional functions, such as a screwdriver and a mixer, and there are a lot of components in the case with them. Professional drills are focused on performing a specific task, therefore, in terms of versatility, they are inferior;
  • good protection and well-thought-out design makes working with a household drill more convenient and safe, which is very important for an inexperienced user;
  • household drills are generally warranted higher than professional tools.

On the other hand, you cannot use a household tool for more than 4 hours a day, otherwise the drill will quickly break. The optimal time of continuous work is 15-20 minutes, after which the tool is allowed to rest and cool down for about the same amount of time, then you can return to work again. The thing is that less powerful engines and less sturdy materials are used to assemble household models. This does not mean that the drill will break quickly. it means that it is designed for light or irregular loads.

If you have to regularly work with a drill for 5 or more hours a day, then it is better to take a professional tool. It is distinguished by the presence of a powerful engine that easily withstands solid loads without overheating or breaking down. A professional drill can work continuously for more than an hour and about 7-8 hours a day, with small breaks. Such a tool is more expensive than a household one, less versatile, heavier, but better protected from dust and moisture, and a professional cannot do without it.

Semi-professional drills are a fairly limited class of devices. Transitional models can be represented by household drills with some properties from professional, or professional, but without any elements.

Which drill to choose depends on what kind of work and how often you are going to do it. If you need it in order to hang a shelf or a picture, if necessary, then you can safely stop at the household version. If repairs are your main or additional income, then it makes sense to consider professional drills.

Drill types by purpose

Depending on what set of functions the drill has, the following main types of tools are distinguished:

  • an ordinary drill, it is sometimes called a hammerless drill;
  • hammer drill;
  • drill screwdriver;
  • drill mixer;
  • angle drill.

All these modifications are quite different from each other, including in price, therefore, when buying, it is so important to be aware of the purposes of using the tool.

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Conventional drill

This is a drill without any bells and whistles. It does not have an impact function, so it will only be possible to drill with it in wood, drywall, metal and other not very hard surfaces. This tool is suitable for minor repairs in the country, in a barn, a wooden house. Conventional drills without impact function can be cordless or powered.

The purpose of the drill. Difference from a hammer drill and screwdriver

The main purpose of the drill is to drill holes in various materials. A conventional drill easily handles metal, wood, drywall and other not particularly dense surfaces. The hammer drill can easily drill through concrete, stone and brick. Special-purpose devices can replace a screwdriver and a construction mixer, and if you have special attachments, you can grind surfaces with a drill.

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An impact drill can replace a hammer drill, since, in addition to rotation, it also has an impact force. That is why it can be used to easily make a hole in concrete. On the other hand, if you are going to work mainly with concrete and other dense materials, then it is better to take a hammer drill. it is designed for constant loads of this kind and will last longer. Otherwise, the path of the hammer drill and the hammer drill diverge. The designs of these devices are radically different, so the hammer drill can handle many processes that require high power. It is used for chipping walls, chipping tiles, chipping off bricks. The main function of a hammer drill is to hammer, while for a drill this function is to drill.

The difference between a drill and a screwdriver can easily be found by a person who generally does not know much about repair work. If the drill drills holes, then a screwdriver is needed to tighten and unscrew screws and bolts. The rotation speed of the screwdriver chuck is much lower, and this tool has fewer settings. There are drills with screwdriver function. this is a versatile tool at home. If you drill and screw in self-tapping screws at the same frequency, then it is better to take two separate tools so that the drill does not suddenly fail.

How to insert a drill into a hammer drill and how to remove it?

With the advent of reinforced concrete structures, no internal or external repair is complete without a hammer drill. On the market, the range of such devices is represented by a wide variety. However, the basic mechanisms work in about the same way. This statement is primarily true for the drill resetting process.

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How to insert a drill

There is also a quick-clamping mechanism on the hammer drill itself. Reliable fastening of the drill in it is ensured by fixation with the help of special balls, which, when closed, fit tightly into the grooves on the lower part of the drill.

In order to fix the necessary nozzle, be it a drill or a crown, you must:

  • take the lower part of the cartridge down (towards the perforator);
  • holding it in this position, insert the desired nozzle;
  • release the cartridge.

If the balls do not enter the grooves and the nozzle staggers, then it is necessary to turn it until the structure is completely closed.

And in order to insert the drill into the perforator using an adapter, first fix the removable chuck, which has a mount at the base with grooves for the tool. Then the drill is installed directly. To remove the drill or drill, you need to perform all the above steps again.

Here I would like to note that any manipulations for installing and removing a drill or other nozzles are preceded by a check of the operating condition of the perforator mechanism. For this, the unit must be connected to the network and, having set the required operating mode, press the start button. If the unit does not emit unusual sounds and, at the same time, there are no extraneous smells of burning or burnt plastic, then the tool is ready for use.

Features of the

With the help of a hammer drill, you can make a hole in almost any material. This device is most often used when working with concrete, brick and metal, less often with wood.

The variety of materials assumes several modes of operation and a large number of attachments:

  • boers;
  • drills;
  • crowns;
  • chisels.

The main difference is their purpose.

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Drill nozzles are designed for drilling punching operations with high strength materials. In this case, the hammer drill performs not only drilling, but also impacts or vibrating actions. Drills make neat holes of the required depth and diameter in the surfaces. Crowns are used for drilling large holes. For example, under an outlet. Installing a chisel or blade assumes that the tool works like a jackhammer.

A significant difference is the type of attachment, which for all attachments, except for drills, is suitable exclusively for a hammer drill, since it has a landing tail, mounts in the form of grooves for this tool.

But you can also fix a conventional drill from a drill in a hammer drill. This requires an adapter called a removable chuck. This device is of two types:

  • cam;
  • quick-clamping.

The name of the type itself determines the type of drill clamping mechanism. The cam clamp is driven by a special key that is inserted into the thread on the outer perimeter and turned. In this case, the collet mechanism installed inside the chuck is compressed or unclenched, depending on the direction of movement of the key.

The quick-clamping type is operated by small hand force. By pushing the chuck downwards, the drill hole opens.

If the nozzle is stuck

As with any tool, even the highest quality hammer drill can jam. When performing work, this becomes a problem, which has several options and reasons.

Firstly, when the drill is stuck in the removable chuck, and secondly, if the nozzle is jammed in the hammer drill itself.

When the problem is in the clamping of the tool itself or in the removable head, then it is enough just to pour a little liquid of the WD-40 type into the chuck and wait a little. The composition will relax the grip of the clamping device and the drill can be reached without problems.

The cause of the malfunction is also in the poor quality of the drill itself. If a cheaper and softer metal alloy was used in the manufacture, then the drill bit can damage the drill during operation.

There are several ways to fix this problem. The first thing to try is to hold the drill in a vice and, holding the tool in your hands, loosen the bit and pull it towards you. If the deformation is not very serious, then the nozzle can be pulled out.

The second option provides for double fixation with a vice. a perforator on one side, and a drill on the other. Then they take a small hammer and hit the drill in the direction of the exit from the clamp. With this operation, you can use the WD-40.

When none of the methods helps, you can try to remove the parts of the chuck and turn the drill in the opposite direction by about 90 degrees. However, such a technique can completely ruin the parts of the clamping device.

But if this option did not work, it is better not to try to disassemble the device. It is better to give such a perforator to the workshop to competent specialists.

It should be noted that in order to minimize the possibility of such breakdowns, it is better to choose high-quality tips from leading brands. As a rule, such an investment pays off with a long tool life.

The nozzle can get stuck not only in the mechanism of the unit, but also in the wall during operation. In this case, you can try to free the drill or drill by turning on the reverse stroke (reverse) on the device.

If this method does not work, then the nozzle is released from the clamp, another is inserted, and, having reamed the wall around the stuck tip, remove it. If the drill breaks during operation, then its remnants are removed from the clamp, and a piece stuck in the wall is drilled out or simply cut off with a grinder at the same level with the working surface.

Detailed instructions for securing the drill in the hammer drill in the video below.

Subtleties of operation

Electric drills began to appear at the end of the 19th century almost immediately after the invention of electric motors. The main task of the introducing tool with a percussion mechanism was drilling various holes in materials using electricity and rotating drills at high speed.

Already from the description it is clear: in order to use such a tool, you need to follow certain safety rules.

  • Before starting work, it is imperative to inspect: a drill, so that there are no open electronic (live) parts; the wire going to the network so that it is not damaged; a plug so that it is solid and working; the outlet so that it is serviceable and tightly seated in the wall. In this case, the plug must be firmly inserted into the outlet and there must be no sparks.
  • Insert the drill into the drill as tightly as possible.
  • Select the required mode: drilling (twisting the drill at high speed) or drilling (drilling using a hammer mechanism).
  • Select the maximum torsion speed of the drill.
  • After making a hole of the required diameter and length, press the off button, and then remove the plug from the socket so as not to accidentally start the tool when not required.

It is worth noting that there are functional drills that recognize the diameter of the drill, have stops for fixing the required drilling depth, have handles for greater fixation of the tool in the hand, and automatically change the drilling speed. Such functional drills require additional settings so that the automation does not fail at the most inopportune moment.

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The drills are selected in accordance with the requirements for the work being carried out. But it must be remembered that they are different, and some drills do not fit a particular drill.

Here the main role is played by the tool holder, which is:

The first option assumes that the user has a special key that can be used to loosen the cartridge. To do this, you need to use the hole on the drill and turn the key counterclockwise or turn it clockwise, and thus clamp it. Often this key is attached to the drill, which reduces the likelihood of losing it and allows you to remove the key from the mount and use it at any time.

The second option is something different, because the quick-release can be:

If you use a single sleeve chuck, you only need one hand to clamp, and the second option is a little more complicated: you have to clamp one sleeve, and with the other hand, turn the other sleeve. Both options save time, but the retention is much worse than using a key chuck.

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Cartridge malfunction

The drill chuck, like any other mechanism, is subject to depletion and may fail over time. Also, a factory defect can serve as the cause of the cartridge jam. The spring in the blocking mechanism can also break, as a result of which the regulating element will no longer be released after the button is pressed. The standard drill chuck is designed for long-term use subject to proper use and periodic maintenance. However, if it is out of order as a result of wear of the components, it is more expedient to replace it with a new one.

Normal extraction method

The technique of how to pull the drill out of the drill under normal conditions looks very simple. The cams of the mechanism holding the drill are set apart by turning the adjusting sleeve manually or by turning the key in the opposite direction of the clockwise movement. After this procedure, the drill should be easily removed. If the chuck is equipped with a locking mechanism, release the drill by pressing the lock button. In order to rotate the adjusting mechanism, it is necessary to fix the stationary component of the cartridge.

In the case when it is impossible to turn the adjusting sleeve, it is necessary to try to increase the force. It is also possible to create an initial push, allowing the movable element to be pulled out of place. To begin with, you should try to turn the sleeve sharply with your hand. If this attempt fails, you can try to accelerate the cartridge to the maximum speed in reverse mode, and at this moment try to clamp the sleeve with your hand. This is an effective way to remove the drill from the drill.

Further, if previous attempts were unsuccessful, you can apply force with a wooden or rubber mallet. To begin with, having fixed the stationary part of the cartridge, it is necessary to strike the sleeve, only not at the end, but along the tangential trajectory. It is also possible to strike the key handle with an instantaneous pinpoint force. To achieve the maximum effect when trying to unlock the cartridge, it is advisable to introduce lubricant into its internal cavity, which will create favorable conditions. This is how it will turn out to pull the drill out of the drill with your own hands. But this is not the only way.

Violations of the rules of work

Safe mode of drilling involves adherence to certain rules, the disregard of which can lead to injury or damage to the tool. The chuck of the drill is in the greatest danger, taking the main load upon contact with the surface. In order to avoid unpleasant consequences, it is not recommended to abruptly change the angle of inclination of the drilling. It is also necessary to limit the force applied to the drill, the drill of which is in the process of drilling. Overloading can cause the drill to break or jam in the chuck. For heavy-duty surfaces, it is necessary to use drills designed for this job.

How to remove a drill from a drill?

Greetings to everyone in the next article! While operating this or that device, the user sometimes encounters unpleasant moments. Today I will touch on one of them. In this text, I decided to give some tips on how to remove the drill from the drill if you can’t do it. The reasons why this seemingly simple thing cannot be done can be very different. Here I described the main aspects on this topic and identified three main areas that I consider necessary to disclose:

  • replacement of a drill in a normally working chuck;
  • pulling out the drill without a key;
  • removing a drill that is stuck due to one or another existing damage.

Let’s consider each of these circumstances separately.

How to remove a drill from a drill: a simple and effective way, drill device, tips

In modern drills, two main types of chucks are used, which differ in the method of fixing the drill. The first type includes key cartridges. This design allows the drill to be fixed by means of a special wrench, which rotates the adjusting ring clockwise until the element is fully fixed. The second type includes keyless chucks. The design allows for manual replacement and fixation of drills. This is very convenient when you need to change the nozzle frequently. However, there are situations when difficulties occur with changing the drill in the chuck. In this case, several useful recommendations on how to pull the drill out of the drill without a key will not hurt. We will talk about this further.

Removing the drill from the chuck using a vise

To apply more force to the adjusting sleeve, a vise is recommended. For this, it is necessary to securely fix the drill in the chuck. over, the drill itself should be placed horizontally to the surface of the workbench. Next, using a light hammer, you need to lightly tap the chuck adjusting sleeve in a circle.

The process itself consists of sharp blows applied to the sleeve along a tangential path. When the sleeve gives in, it should be turned with a pipe wrench. If the attempt is unsuccessful, the work should be repeated, increasing the force of the blow. To make the surface of the chuck less damaged, it is better to use a bronze hammer for this procedure.

Mounting device. non-combat cartridge

The chuck is the fastener in which the drill is fixed. The fasteners themselves are screwed onto the tool spindle. Most often, drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. This design is a hollow cylinder with metal “fingers” inside. When turning the adjusting ring, which is located outside the assembly, the “fingers” converge or diverge along the inner cone-shaped surface. In such a “fist” you can clamp both a drill with a cylindrical shank and a hex.

Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. However, it is not without its drawbacks. One of them is the difficulty of working with small drills. A short piece can simply fall inward. You can still fix it by putting the drill in a horizontal position, but you cannot press on it hard during work. If another drill has been inserted into the drill, it can be removed by turning the adjusting ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do this manually, for this there is a special key that acts like a lever, increasing the effort. By the way, tightening the drill without a key is also not recommended. the larger the drill diameter, the more reliable the fastening should be.

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When buying fasteners, make sure that it is rubberized. so you will less injure your hands when fastening the tool.

Keyless fasteners, the second most popular, can be operated without a key. It is enough to insert the drill and turn the lever, often it can be done with one hand. The fixation of the drill, which this type of chuck provides, is quite enough for most jobs, however, compared to the classic version of the fastening, it is inferior in reliability, and it is more expensive. The main advantage of the quick-clamping fastening is the speed of changing the drill and the safety of the process, since such a chuck is devoid of teeth that can injure hands. The absence of a specialized key is also a significant advantage! Seasoned builders know how easily it is lost, so very often you can see the key tied with tape or electrical tape to the wire.

True, this does not add convenience, but there is at least some confidence that the key will not have to be looked for throughout the construction site. How to change a drill in a screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical. the cartridges for most drills are similar to fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the last tool cannot be a full-fledged replacement for a high-quality drill, if only because fasteners are not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of a screwdriver is usually less.

Drill device. what you need to know about the tool?

A drill jammed in a drill or screwdriver chuck has occurred at least once with every tool owner. To understand why this can happen, you need to understand how the drill works. This tool converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is possible thanks to an electric motor that rotates the shaft. Through the gearbox and gears, the rotation is transmitted to the fasteners, in which the drill is fixed.

Now let’s look at the operation of an electric drill from the back side, provided that the drill was not secured correctly or not firmly enough. Vibrations that occur during operation will lead to deviations in the direction of drilling, resulting in a curved hole. Vibrations from vibration will be transmitted to the gears and the gearbox, they will hook the shaft and the engine itself. this does not immediately threaten to breakdown, however, a decrease in the service life of the tool is guaranteed! Often, carelessness in securing the drill leads to its jamming. Sometimes jamming occurs as a result of the drill slipping off the drilling point. to avoid this, use a spring center punch to make indentations in the surface for the drill.

In addition to jamming, a loosely fixed drill can jump out of the fastener, and this is already fraught with severe enough injuries for the person working with the tool and others, given the speed of revolutions of modern devices. Therefore, never fasten the drill in a hurry, always disconnect the drill from the current in order to avoid accidentally starting the drill.

How to change a drill bit in a drill. proven methods!

What repairs would cost without a good drill and drill set! However, even the most reliable tool can jam during operation. Don’t rush to panic! We will teach you how to change a drill in a drill and correctly diagnose other breakdowns.

How to change a drill in a drill. we do it ourselves!

It is far from always possible to get the drill out of the chuck in the usual way. as a result of heavy loading or improper fixation, it can jam the chuck. How to get the drill out of the drill without damaging the fasteners and tools? First of all, try to cool the cartridge well. Sometimes this is already enough for the cams to release the drill a little, and you can pull it out.

The most proven method for removing a jammed tool is to tap the cams. To do this, the free end of the drill is fixed in a vice, a wooden bar is applied to the chuck, through which tapping is carried out. This vibration can cause the chuck to loosen its grip and free the tool. This method will be useful both for owners of classic fasteners and for owners of quick-release fasteners. Extraction is sometimes possible after lubricating the drill with machine oil or the popular WD-40 grease.

The latter method is better, because the sprayer will quickly reach the desired points of contact between the drill and the chuck. In any case, after lubrication, you will need to wait a little for the substance to penetrate deeper. Sometimes, in especially difficult cases, the problem is solved only after dipping the entire cartridge in machine oil or vegetable oil. If neither one nor the other is at hand, you can make a “bath” of your drill and gasoline. Keep the cartridge in the liquid for at least an hour. Combining methods will remove a jammed drill even faster.

How to replace the chuck. update the drill

Most often, the cartridge is the first to become unusable in the drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but possible! The fasteners are screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a left-hand threaded bolt. In order to get it, you need to completely unclench the cartridge. it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and trying to unscrew it, twist it even more, tear off the hat and eventually bring it to the service.

By unscrewing the bolt, you can unscrew the cartridge itself, however, and this is not so easy to do. In some models, there are notches for a wrench at the base of the thread. in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of effort. The real difficulty arises when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to fix the spindle inside the drill. Difficult but doable.

Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is completely different. In addition to the methods of clamping the drill, which are described above, different chucks also have different threads! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or how to choose the right one according to the layout. When you have coped with this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and tighten the bolt, which in our case is twisted counterclockwise.