On plastic
Such equipment is used when working on plastic, fiberglass or metal-plastic. In the teeth of such products, the sharpening angle is negative, so you can make a neat spray even in a small-sized part. Some rigs of this type are used as a disc on laminate, chipboard or fiberboard.
Saw blade for plastic, laminate, aluminum
During work, sharp equipment must be used. A damaged or already dull tool becomes a prerequisite for jamming in the product, and, accordingly, for blocking the engine.
Scope of use and basic parameters
Circular saws, small and medium in cutting depth, belong to the class of hand-held equipment that has sufficient maneuverability and convenience. At the same time, such circular saws have low power, therefore, they DO NOT differ in high productivity.
Saws with a large cutting depth are more professional equipment, therefore they are used in small enterprises, woodworking workshops.
Circular saws are one of the most demanded tools on the market. It is the depth of cut that is the main parameter that people pay attention to when buying a product.
It is never worth rushing to make a choice, the same cutting depth is NOT an indicator that the selected tool can cope with the task.
The second main indicator is the power of the power unit inside the saw structure. The performance of the product depends on this parameter.
How to make a circular saw blade?
A saw blade is a circular saw attachment, which is used to cut workpieces from different materials.
The main material for manufacturing is chrome vanadium steel or high speed steel. Molybdenum and tungsten are added to the metal of the tool, which give the necessary strength. Such discs are marked CV or HSS.
Cut-off for metal
Such metal is NOT brittle, but there are also more hard-alloy materials on which the vehicle is marked. The design of such discs more than half consists of chrome vanadium steel, the teeth are made of tungsten carbide.
In the process of manufacturing parts, they are soldered onto the main part of the disk. This circular disc will last ten times longer than a regular steel disc.
There are circular saw blades with diamond segments, which are attached to the main part by laser welding.
Such products are distinguished by their high strength and the ability to use them for cutting durable materials, for example, concrete or natural stone.
Different tool models differ in shape, length, angle of inclination and type of tooth setting.
The most commonly used types of teeth are:
- Trapezoidal
- Divorced
- Multidirectional
- Straight-sided profile
How to choose
But not everyone knows how to choose a product so that it copes with the task with a high quality.
In order to choose the right disk for a circular, it is important to know the basic parameters that will need to be guided in the process of work.
Highlight among the main characteristics:
- Disc diameter. It can range from 13 to 50 centimeters. The larger the diameter, the larger the workpiece the tool can handle.
- Landing diameter. This size is always indicated in millimeters and the product is selected according to it in accordance with the size of the saw. Among the most popular tools for wood, sizes with an indicator of 16, 20 and 22 millimeters, for an angle grinder 22.2 millimeters, and for end equipment 20, 22, 24 and 30 millimeters.
- The number of segments. It can vary from 10 to 150 pieces. The accuracy of the cut will depend on the number of teeth, the more there are, the better it is.
What you need to know when choosing miter saws
It is better to take on the market products from well-known manufacturers who have already established themselves as consumers. Such equipment will NOT fail, but their only drawback is their cost.
What discs for circular saws are?
In production and in everyday life, discs of different types are used. They differ from each other Not only in the material of manufacture, the position of the teeth, but also in the scope of use.
All products on the market can be divided into 4 types:
Circular saw blades: the right choice and application
Circular saws are hand-held tools, which can be used to make a cross-section and longitudinal section of various materials. The main structural element of such a tool is a metal disc with cutting teeth at the edges.
Circular saw blade for wood
This type of product is used when working with lumber or solid wood. They, in turn, also differ, but according to the operations that perform.
Disc for wood, for circular saw
There are discs of this type for fast cutting of wood. They differ from the second in a small number of teeth, which gives a rough cut. There are also products on the market for a clean cut, on the edges of which there are many small teeth and for ripping with large teeth.
If the cut is supposed to be made across the workpiece, then use a disc with fine teeth. There are also universal products, on the edges of which there are both small and large teeth. With their help, you can do any woodwork without changing the tool.
Classification of circulars
All circular saws on the market can be divided according to their purpose.
Among them:
- Models used for cutting metal. (Also used in miter saws)
- Used for cross-cutting of wood;
- Circular saws for timber rip;
- Models used for cutting panel materials, including laminate.
Any circular saw can belong to models of different cutting depths.
Among the huge assortment offered by manufacturers, four types stand out:
- Small saws in which the cutting depth is 4 to 4.6 centimeters;
- Average cutting depth with a distance of 5-5.5 centimeters;
- Large cutting depth from 6.5 to 7 centimeters;
- Professional-grade saws with a cutting depth of 6.5-14 centimeters.
For metal
This model is used to work with metal, including pipes, profiles, fittings, and so on. They differ in the type of material that they will handle.
If a blade is used in a saw design without liquid cooling, then there will be slots in its body, which will compensate for the discharge temperature.
Tool disassembly
Almost all malfunctions of electric circular saws cannot be eliminated, rather than disassembling the device partially or completely. Complete disassembly of an electric hand saw using the example of the Interskol unit is performed in the following order.
- Unscrew the angle and depth adjustment screws attached to the sole of the device.
- Press the gearbox shaft stop button and use the hex wrench to unscrew the bolt holding the saw blade.
- Pulling the lower guard to the side, remove the circular disc.
- To remove the support sole, first unscrew the fasteners on its underside.
- Next, using two screwdrivers, remove the Sieger ring, which locks the rod on which the sole rotates, to change the angle.
Insert a screwdriver into the gap between the body of the shield and the sole, then move it back and Remove.
Next, disconnect the unit’s gearbox by unscrewing 2 screws.
By removing one half of the handle, you will see the soft start module and the start button.
This concludes the complete disassembly of the circular saw.
How to choose?
Purpose of the saw blade DP-190/1600 M
The aforementioned circular saw is designed for sawing various materials, including:
The equipment can be angled in the material by 63 mm. The device has a 1600 W and 190 mm motor. For safety and convenience, the design is equipped with a lock against accidental activation, a spindle lock and an adjustable cutting angle.
Major malfunctions and their symptoms
Typical malfunctions of manual circulars include the following situations.
- The saw does not start. There may be a faulty power cord, electrical plug, start button, or electric brushes.
- The engine of the instrument is very hot. Such symptoms may be the result of a turn-to-turn short circuit (breakage) in the armature or stator coils, as well as an excessively intensive unit operation.
- The gearbox of the device is overheating. Overheating of this unit may occur due to bearing failure or lack of lubrication on the gears.
- The brushes sparkle. This is usually due to excessive wear.
- A burning ring is visible around the engine manifold. If, during operation of the unit, a circular spark is observed around the engine manifold, then its appearance can cause a malfunction of the armature winding or clogging of the space between the collector lamellas with graphite dust.
- The unit develops the required power. The drop in power may be due to a drop in voltage in the network, malfunction of the motor windings, wear of the electric brushes, malfunction of the start button.
- During operation of the unit, grinding and other extraneous sounds are heard. These symptoms can be caused by broken gear teeth or bearing malfunction.
- The engine is humming but the unit is not running. A jam may have occurred in the gearbox.
The device and principle of operation of a circular saw
A hand-held circular saw differs from a miter saw in the absence of a bed with a rotary table, as well as in the placement of the handle. But in general, both models are similar in terms of internal structure, principle of operation and do NOT differ in the complexity of the design. The following figure shows the device of a hand-held circular saw.
The unit includes the following main elements.
- Upper protective casing with an opening for ejection of sawdust.
- The case, which houses the electric motor and the start button. Some saw models can operate on rechargeable batteries. In this case, the battery pack is also located on the case.
- Lower (movable) protective cover, which automatically closes the cutting element after leaving the workpiece.
- Saw blade. Fastened to the gearbox shaft with a nut or bolt.
- Parallel stop. Allows you to make an even cut without the use of additional devices.
- Base plate (base) of the unit. Thanks to it, the tool is installed on the workpiece or rail at different angles.
- Depth adjuster. It can be used to adjust the overhang of the saw blade to the base plate.
- Sole angle adjuster. Allows you to tilt the unit for angle sawing.
This tool works according to the following principle. Mains or battery power goes to the start button, which breaks the circuit. When you press the start button, the current begins to flow to the electric motor. Below is the wiring diagram of the unit.
The electric motor starts and transfers the rotary motion through the gearbox to the saw blade. The unit is installed using a soleplate on a workpiece or a guide rail, after which the process of both longitudinal and transverse sawing is performed.
How to choose?
In order to make the right choice, when buying a disc, you must consider:
In order not to be mistaken when choosing a saw blade, it is necessary to take into account not only the correspondence of the size of the blade and the protection of the tool. The power of this unit is also important, as well as the tendency to overheat. These parameters depend on the speed of work and the number of stops to cool the saw.
Disc marking will give the most comprehensive information about its properties and capabilities.
When making an independent choice without the help of a sales assistant, it is important NOT to confuse products for a pendulum saw and circular saw. Such circles can only be distinguished by the type of inclination of the teeth. Neutral and negative tilt discs do not grip material well, clog quickly and DO NOT cut the cut. In this case, the force of the motor can lead to overheating. For a circular saw, blades with an aggressive positive tilt angle are more suitable if the saw product does not dictate a second.
Consider special cases of using saw blades.
- Straight-toothed accessory is selected for woodworking in the Draft version.
- For saws for concrete and DSP (cement particle board), use a nozzle with flat teeth and chamfers, since they easily tolerate falling into the grooves of concrete or nails.
- For work on laminate and chipboard, a disc with a series of concave triangular teeth is perfect. It will help you spray without prior marking.
- On soft metals such as aluminum, a wheel with alternating trapezoidal and flat teeth will work best.
- When working on plywood and MDF, it is better to use a universal nozzle.
- As for heavy decor, a diamond wheel must be used for manual cutting on materials such as stone.
Reviews Makita 5008MG
How to replace a disk?
When repairing, as a rule, several types of materials are used, which require not only cutting, but also milling. And different products need different attachments.
This moment leads to the need to replace the wheel with a cutter.
- In order to perform this operation, you must first make sure that the device is disconnected from the network. This point is critical to avoid serious injury. When changing a circle, even an experienced craftsman can accidentally press the start button, and the health consequences will be dire. Therefore, when working with cutting electric units, it is necessary to strictly observe all the rules of safe work.
- Next, you need to prepare a hexagon. They unscrew almost all the bolts on circular saws, both foreign and domestic. Using this key, it is necessary to Unscrew the fastening bolt of the protective plastic casing, return the protection to the top and screw it again, but you must not tighten it tight.
- Next, you need to insert the hexagon into the shaft mounting bolt on one side, and on the other, press the lock button of the same shaft. Then the bolt must be Unscrewed, remove the washer-stopper and the disk behind it. It must be changed to a milling cutter and all the steps must be done again, only in the reverse order. First, a washer is placed on the nozzle, then the bolt is manually screwed in the center and the structure is clamped with a hexagon while the shaft lock is pressed.
Thus, when choosing an attachment for a circular saw, it is necessary to start from the quality and properties of the material for cutting, as well as the technical characteristics of the saw and the saw blade itself. For low-power, mostly hand-held circular dust options, do not choose discs with too many teeth. This can lead to engine overheating and costly repairs.
In the next one you will find an overview of the discs. 24 and 60 teeth.
Circular saw Interskol DP 210 / 1900EM
Cutting thorns for circular dust
If you need to assemble a sturdy plywood box, it is best to use a glued tenon joint. However, cutting thorns for him without Special devices is very difficult.
How you can adapt a circular saw for this, read the article.
Once I needed to make many boxes of different sizes from plywood. As you know, plywood does not like fastening with self-tapping screws to the end and often splits from this. I had a tenon cutter for a router, but it had low productivity, and besides, when using low-quality plywood, the cutters quickly became dull. And the sharpening of the cutter gradually changes its diameter, and it becomes impossible to work with it on the tenon cutter. Therefore, the task was set to create a new, more powerful tool with the ability to cut thorns immediately in a pack of blanks to speed up work.
To solve this problem, I used a stationary circular saw, for which I made a special device. I make the grooves with a block of disks, and the accuracy of movement is ensured by a stud, in which there is a fixed thread pitch. I’ll tell you how I made this device.
Circular Dust Thorn Cutter
Machine base
An old homemade saw stop came in handy as the base of the thorn cutting device.
2. On the sides of the stop, I installed vertical posts made of larch, which I additionally strengthened for rigidity with side plates. I pre-pressed the bearings into the racks under the driving pin. Stud used with M1D thread and 1.75 mm pitch.
3. Moving along the hairpin is done with the help of a wooden block in which a long nut is hidden. Using a shorter nut may cause the unit to skew while driving.
Support board
The blanks of the boxes in my design are fastened with clamps to the support board. To make it last longer and NOT wrinkle from the clamps, for its manufacture I used a larch decking board, which I leveled with a Thicknesser.
At first, I planned to make the resistances with a single board, but it would require a lock on the bottom and, in addition, the bottom edge would be damaged by the saw when cutting the thorns. If I raised the support board above the level of the spikes, then there would be a problem of chips on the workpieces, especially from plywood. Therefore, I made the support board in two parts.
The lower, narrower and shorter part of the support board was rigidly attached to the base of the tenon cutter, and the upper part was left movable. It is moved by means of a wooden block with a nut and a pin along the groove in the bottom of the support board.
5. In the lower part I installed a replaceable anti-splinter pad made of MDF. I installed a side stop on the movable part of the support board. strictly perpendicular to both the board and the base plate. Then I attached a block to the edge of the base as an additional attachment and made a cut in the base for the disc to pass.
6. For safety, in the front part, where the disc comes out, glued a protective block. On the sides of this bar there is a place where the handles will be installed for the convenience of moving the tenon cutter along the saw table skids.
7. To control the position of the disc, set two pointers. The first shows when the backing board is set to the “zero” position, that is, when the disc is in close contact with its plane with the side stop. The second helps to count the revolutions when the stud rotates. As a second counter, I used a wooden “barrel”, rigidly fixed to a pin, on which I put a risk in 1/4 turn increments.
8. To ensure faster performance, I used a “sandwich” of two identical discs and spacers between them. There are special kits for setting the exact width of the groove, but they are expensive, and I have such a comment. To get the gasket of the right thickness, I cut out a duralumin washer with a thickness slightly less than necessary and brought it to the desired size using self-adhesive aluminum tape. I would like to point out that it is better to use new identical discs. I had one new, and the second was already a little used, as a result, when cutting, a small step appears at the base of the spike.
9. After a lot of trials and adjustments, I got a “sandwich” with a cutting width of 5.25 mm, which corresponds to 3 turns of the stud (1.75 mm x 3 = 5.25 mm). This made it possible to make 5.25mm wide cleats by turning the pin 6 full turns between cuts. If it was necessary to make larger spikes, then the number of revolutions proportionally increased.
10. Tenon cutter ready to work.
Additional refinement
On this, the manufacture of tenon cutters could have been completed. However, after a short operation, several shortcomings in its work were discovered.
Firstly, counting a large number of revolutions is NOT convenient. you can easily get lost. Secondly, if an incomplete rotation of the stud was required, then the Counting became even more difficult, and the accuracy dropped. Thirdly, since the gap between the pin and the moving support board did NOT allow the handle to be rotated normally, it had to be brought out to the right to the maximum, and this protruding long part of the pin made the device not very comfortable.
To remedy these shortcomings, I decided to mount the “reducer” on a pin of two gears at right angles to each other. The size of the gears was selected so that in one revolution of the driving gear, the pin makes 3 revolutions. The most affordable option for me was to make gears from wood, so I used 13 mm birch plywood as the material.
I got the drawings of the gears using the Matthias Wandeley gear generator, which can be found on his website. Then I pasted the printouts on plywood and cut out the gears with a band saw.
12. To ensure that the gears are well engaged, their teeth are cut at an angle of M degrees. over, different sides of the tooth were cut accordingly with an inclination in different directions. My band saw allows you to tilt the table only in one direction, so I did not use the tilt of her table, but made an inclined base and attached it with a clamp to the saw table. First, I cut out the left sides of the teeth while tilting to the right, and then I turned the stop and cut out the right sides. I connected both cuts at the base with a hand jigsaw.
13. After that, I grinded each tooth and drilled a central hole.
14. The gear works only with the upper parts of the teeth, so I did not carefully process their lower parts.
Installation of the “reducer”. First, I cut off part of the right pillar with a hand hacksaw and tried to install a furniture nut to fasten the drive gear. However, this option turned out to be a failure. Due to the bearing installed in the rack, it was NOT possible to secure the nut tightly with long self-tapping screws, and the large lever of the drive gear led to strong beats. The idea of simply putting a large gear on the bolt was also bad: for the gear to rotate easily, a little play was needed, and it also caused beats.
I had to press the bearing into the gear, and instead of the furniture nut, I would put a 3 mm thick metal plate with fasteners that went beyond the bearing in the rack. To compensate for the thickness of the metal plate, a recess was made in the gears on the inside.
17. I installed a handle on the drive gear and numbered the teeth for convenience (a turn by one tooth is equal to 1/4 of a turn of the stud). Downstairs on the counter made a counter-risk for accurate positioning. After that, I sawed off the extra piece of the stud and covered the structure with wax for better sliding and protection from moisture and dirt.
18. By turning the drive gear by a different number of revolutions, I get studs of different thicknesses and can even make them unequal.
Selection criteria for circular saw blades
There are two types of discs: monolithic, i.E. Made of solid metal and with cobalt or tungsten carbide plates soldered onto the teeth.
The first, regardless of the quality of the metal from which they are made, dull and quickly enough. To continue to operate, they need to sharpen the teeth and set them. This operation can be done independently, and several times. They are budget-priced and designed strictly for working with wood blanks.
The latter are much more expensive, but they also last much longer, even if we compare the many re-sharpening of solid discs. If the carbide is sharpened, the cost of this operation will be almost equal to a new disc. But the durability and quality of the cut of the material justify the price. In addition, they can cut metal, laminate boards, and hard plastic. The plates themselves are patented technologies of the companies that produce these products. It is usually a powder of tungsten or cobalt with various additives, sintered in furnaces and soldered with a special solder using robotics.
Therefore, when choosing a disk, you need to know what work will be done with it. After all, the wrong choice can lead to:
- To disk failure;
- To poor quality work;
- To equipment failure;
- To injury, which is the most unpleasant.
The disc is often exposed to heat, which leads to its deformation during operation. Therefore, special technological holes are required on the disc itself, which not only reduce the threat of deformation by cooling the disc, but also reduce vibration, reduce noise, and so on. Some manufacturers put special copper rivets on the holes, the holes have an intricate shape, which is calculated on a computer.
Discs are made by stamping and laser cutting with subsequent processing. Laser cutting is more accurate and non-contact, which makes it possible NOT to change the quality of the metal at the cutting site. In addition, it minimizes end runout. For professional work, the best options are from 0.15 mm to 0.05 mm. For household work, such accuracy is excessive, the load there is not so big.
Dimensions for disc selection
To select a disk, you need to consider it as an internal size, it goes in size as the second digit. For example, consider saw blades for wood for a circular saw 255 × 30. Here, the bore diameter for landing on the shaft is 30, the fit must be tight. This is an important condition for safe work. Sometimes it is necessary to use a disc with a larger inner diameter, then it is possible to use such a tool in the presence of Special adapter rings. But for professional use it is not desirable.
Adapter rings to disc
The first number, 255 mm, is the outer diameter of the disc. The cutting depth also depends on this size. It depends on the power of the tool, the more power of the saw, the larger the diameter of the blade it can accept. Conversely, the higher the rotational speed, the smaller the disc diameter must be installed on it. In addition, there is usually a protective casing on the dust, and you need to choose a disc that will fit this casing. Typically, for hand saws, this diameter will be from 130 to 250 mm.
The angle of inclination of the teeth and its shape
Another important indicator will be the angle of inclination of the teeth and its shape. The saw blade is NOT suitable for trimming jobs, for example. There are no universal disks, this must be firmly remembered. This is due to the fact that the trajectory of the tool rotation in the workpiece itself is different in each case; an incorrectly selected disc can lead to overheating of the motor. In one case, the teeth will cut with the back side, and in the other, sawdust will start clogging all the holes and gaps between the teeth, especially if the teeth are small. Again, unnecessary load on the engine.
Angles of inclination of teeth
When choosing a disk for working with a tree, you need to look at the following parameters:
To work with longitudinal cuts, it is necessary to choose an anther with a positive angle of inclination and with a small number of teeth. For example, in the size 250×30 mm, the number of teeth should be in the range from 18 to 24 pieces;
To work with face cuts, we take the number of teeth from 24 to 48 pieces.
If these are anthers for working with non-ferrous metals or a laminate board, we select the number of its teeth should be from 64 pieces and more, with both a positive angle and a negative angle of inclination of the teeth.
Tooth shape in disc
Also the shape of the tooth matters. For wooden materials we choose a flat tooth, for non-ferrous metals and plastics we choose a trapezoidal tooth.
Tooth shape in discs
There are also discs that have variable teeth. Here they can be used for both radial and pendulum cutting. These saw blades for hand-held circular saws are used to make a high-quality spray of sufficiently hard, for example, wet and large wood. In this case, the teeth have a negative angle. Anthers are ideal for household use when building a country house or summer cottage.
In total, three angles of inclination are distinguished: a positive angle, a negative and zero angle, that is, a straight.
Tooth angle diagram
A blade with straight or zero inclination of teeth is used for dry cutting of non-ferrous metals and laminate.
You also need to pay attention to the thickness of the disc. For wood of normal density, choose a thinner disc, within 2 mm, for non-ferrous metals and laminate, the average disc thickness will be 3.2 mm.
All the necessary data is indicated on the disc, and everything must be marked with a laser or etching. If everything is written in paint, this is a low-quality disc and the paint may just come off soon.
Disk layout
In addition, the disc must be packed in cardboard to avoid damage during transport. Then it will be possible to store the disc in this cardboard.
Circular saw blade. Circular saw and the choice of blades for it
Choosing the right blade for your saw and NOT missing is an art. Of course, at first glance. what is so difficult here? But the quality of work and productivity, and personal safety also depend on the disk. After all, circular saws are perhaps the most traumatic tool.
Therefore, the choice of disk must be taken seriously. Very often, both professionals and amateurs prefer to buy one disc, exploit it to the fullest, Until it dies. It is understandable somewhere, the cost of a good carbide disc is quite high, in equivalent it can reach 100 conventional units.
If you contact an Authorized Center, they approach the matter responsibly, they have detailed information about products, catalogs, and they themselves are quite good specialists.
Non-standard discs
There are also such interesting types as a saw blade for concrete, stone, brick for circular saws. They have diamond brazing on the cutting edge instead of hard alloy. There are different discs for wet sawing and dry sawing. Special cooling holes are required on them, and during operation, in order to avoid overheating of the tool, they take frequent breaks. The tool is mostly used by professionals.
Diamond blade for dry cutting in concrete
There are also saw blades for corrugated board for circular saws. The peculiarity of working with corrugated board is. That several layers of polymer coating are applied to the metal letter, which is afraid of temperature changes and may lose the quality of the coating. Therefore, it is necessary to use a disc with special carbide fine teeth from the victor, while the cut is very accurate. To eliminate damage to the polymer layer, a special device is made of plywood, a conductor, 1500 x 300 mm in size, then a groove is cut in the middle, along which the spray will go.
Hand sawing on corrugated board
Circular saw blade 400x4x50 is used for rough wood processing. They are quite rare, they are used by professionals.
Bosch multi-disc
If we consider blade manufacturers, then Bosch circular saw blades are considered to be of the highest quality. They have really good workmanship, and not only their composition for soldering hard alloy, but the blade itself is made of first class steel. Its coating not only protects against corrosion, but also reduces friction during operation. Tensile ring knurling is used as protection against deformation.
Three ways to cut thin strips on circular dust
Materials.
– Treated wood blocks.
Tools used by the author.
– a circular saw
– magnetic retainer
– pusher
– ruler.
Manufacturing process.
Usually these things are done on a band saw because there is a good thin blade that is gentle on the material. The band saw is just made for the job. But not everyone has such a tool. The author of this article will tell us how to do such a job on circular dust.
Now the author will tell us about his favorite third way. It uses a wooden bar or a magnetic stop as a limiter, which are located to the left of the saw blade.
The author makes a mark on the product in order to line up the blade and make a cut of the appropriate size. Then he puts the stopper and secures it.
Thus, the application of one of the listed methods depends mainly on the size of the forest, and the size of those elements that are supposed to be obtained from it. And they all give good results.
Of course, it would be much more organic to make such strips on a band saw, since its blade is much thinner and, accordingly, the material consumption is less, compared to processing with a circular saw. At the same time, the circular saw gives an equally undeniable advantage. Such cuts do NOT need any major post-processing. It is enough to simply sand the cut edges a little if you intend to glue them to some other surface. They turn out to be really very smooth.
So, as you yourself have seen, there are many ways to achieve your goal, and the light did not converge like a wedge on one method.!
Thanks to Mark for an interesting master class, observe safety precautions!
Good mood, good luck, and interesting homemade products to everyone!