Knife with their own hands from a circular saw

Circular saw blade with your own hands

By making a knife from a saw with your own hands, you can get at your disposal a cutting device, which has performance characteristics much better than those of factory-made counterparts. When making a knife with their own hands, they give it exactly the shape that suits the master the most. Factory-made knives are beautiful, but not always reliable. There is no guarantee that they will not fail at the most crucial moment.

Homemade knife from disc, wood hacksaw or metal saw will last for many years regardless of the conditions of storage and use. Let’s look at how to make a knife out of factory-made metal parts, what you need for this and what you should pay special attention to.

Tools and materials

The raw material for making a home-made knife can be any new or old cutting part of hardened steel. Metal cutting disks, hand and pendulum saw blades are the best choice for the workpiece. Not a bad option is an old chainsaw. From its chain, you can forge and hone a blade, in quality and appearance not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

In order to make a knife with your own hands, you will need such equipment and materials:

• angle grinder;
• sharpening machine;
• electric drill;
• ruler;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• sharpening bars;
• files;
• core;
• epoxy adhesive;
• copper wire;
• marker;
• bucket with water.

Separate consideration must be given to the handle. The finished product should lie comfortably in the hand.

To make the handle it is better to use:

The raw material for the handle must be in one piece, with no signs of cracks, rot, or other defects.

Design features

Structurally, the homemade sawing table looks quite simple. The machine consists of a supporting frame for fixing the motor, a transmission unit and a working table with a slot for the cutting disc. The design is equipped with stops to guide the workpiece and a protective screen that prevents chips from getting in and also increases the safety of work.

Mandatory requirements to the sawing table:

• rigid, stable design;
• smooth surface of the table top;
• safe mounting of the circular sawblade;
• Fences to protect the operator of the machine (table);
• control unit (start and stop buttons) is easily accessible.

The equipment must be installed on a frame supported not on solid sheets, but on legs. This makes the saw table more comfortable to work with, although it makes it less stable. To increase durability the bed can be made of metal or reinforced with metal elements. safety is ensured not only by the safety guard but also by the blade holder on the bottom (inside) side. Additional requirements depend on the characteristics of work. auxiliary elements help to process parts more accurately, to saw longer boards, as well as thicker logs.

The advantages of making a table saw yourself range from cost reduction to the possibility of having the design changed just the way the handyman wants it. If you want, you can replace some parts with more cost-effective parts, use leftover materials from repair or construction. The only disadvantage of the circular saw, independently mounted on the machine, is a decrease in the accuracy of positioning of workpieces. But this point still depends largely on the skill of the performer himself.

Rigid, stable construction

Smooth surface of the table top

Securely fasten the disc

Guarding that protects the operator of the machine (table)

Advantages of homemade equipment

Homemade circular saw is considered a quite popular tool. Notable for simple manufacturing and has a high degree of reliability.

So, the circular saw with their own hands has such advantages:

Today you can find many drawings, which allow the construction of stationary or mobile saws of different sizes. Drills, angle grinders and other tools can be used for this.

Some craftsmen combine a circular saw with a jointer, placing them on the same base. These tools can be operated by a common motor. This machine achieves a perfect deburring of the wooden surface. That is why the combination of a planer and a circular saw is considered a very functional solution.

Rules of working with metal

To make the blade strong and resilient, it is necessary to follow the rules of metalwork in the process of making it. They are as follows:

• Workpieces must be free of visible and concealed defects. Before making the knife, the workpieces must be inspected and punched. The solid piece is sound, but the defective piece is muffled.
• When designing the shape of the blade, corners must be avoided. In such places the steel can break. All transitions must be smooth and without jagged edges. The cuts in the blade, the handle and the blade guard must be mitred at right angles.
• When sawing and sharpening must not overheat the steel. This results in a reduction of its strength. Overheated blade becomes brittle or soft. During machining, the workpiece must be constantly cooled by immersing it completely in a bucket of cold water.
• When making a knife from a band saw blade, remember that this product has already gone through a hardening cycle. Factory saws are adapted to work with the hardest alloys. If you don’t overheat the blade while it is being milled and finished, you won’t have to quench it.

The shank of the blade must not be made too thin. This is the part of the workpiece that will be under the most strain.

Making a blade from a blade

If the blade is large and does not have much wear and tear, it can be used to make several blades for different purposes. The effort and time are worth it.

The circular saw knife with his own hands is made in this sequence:

• A template is put on the blade and the contours of the blade are marked. Scratches or dotted lines are drawn on top of the marker with a punch. So the pattern will not rub off when sawing the workpiece and adjusting it to the desired shape.
• Workpieces are sawn from the circular saw blade. It is better to use an angle grinder with a disc for metal. Leave 2 mm to the contour. This is necessary in order to remove the material burned by the angle grinder. If you do not have an angle grinder at hand, you can grind the workpiece with a vice, hammer and chisel or hacksaw for metal.
• Use a sharpening machine to cut off all unnecessary parts. This process will have to spend a lot of time so as not to overheat the steel. To avoid this, you must regularly submerge the workpiece in water until it cools down completely.
• The blade is marked. Here it is necessary to be attentive to preserve the contour of the knife, not to burn it and to maintain the angle of 20?
• All straight edges are smoothed. It is convenient to do this by laying the workpiece against the side of the sharpening wheel. The transitions are rounded.
• The part is cleaned of burrs. Grinding and polishing the blade. Several interchangeable wheels on a sharpening machine are used for this purpose.

Separately, it should be noted how the handle is made. If wood is used, a monolithic fragment is taken, in which a longitudinal cut and through holes are made. After that the slab is put on the blade, and the holes for fasteners are marked in it. The handle is fastened to the blade with rivets or bolts and nuts. In the case of a bolted connection, the metal caps are sunk into the wood and poured with epoxy glue.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 overlays are used that must be symmetrical. To make the knife original the plastic plates are painted on the inside. Cavities can be made in the linings and filled with jewelry, non-ferrous and precious metals, small compasses and photographs.

After attaching to the blade, the handles are sharpened until they are the desired shape and smoothness.

A step-by-step guide to woodcarving

Creating a semi-finished blade for a cutter

The blade elements are made of a used circular saw blade. To do so, the disc is cut to accurately measure 20 x 80 mm using an angle grinder. Each bar is a cutter in the future.

Contouring the main cutters

Each pick must be ground to the correct configuration. This process can be carried out in two ways: by sharpening on a machine tool and by forging. Forging is needed to form the deflection, and turning is needed to form a single blade configuration.

Sharpening

To sharpen a blade, you need an emery machine with a fine grit stone. Sharpening is carried out at an inclination of about 45 degrees, and the length of the sharpened part is about 20-35 millimeters, taking into account the cumulative length of the cutter. The blade itself can be sharpened either by hand or on the tool.

Creating a handle for comfortable carving

To make use of the tool was extremely comfortable, you need to make a wooden handle. The handle is made on special equipment or by hand, planed and then sanded with emery cloth.

Connecting the blade and the handle

The steel blade is inserted inside the wood handle. For this purpose, a hole is drilled inside the handle to a depth of 20-30 millimeters. The blade of the cutter will be on the outside, and the base itself is hammered into the cavity of the handle.

Notice that in order to fix it firmly, there must be a needle-shaped point on the tip of the steel piece. When hammering it is necessary to use the cover of dense cloth not to break the sharpening of the blade.

Mounting the crown

A steel retaining ring is used to secure the blade. On the wooden handle, a specialized contour is cut exactly to the size of the ring. Threads are then tapped and the crown ring is fixed to the tapped threads. As a result the wooden handle should be compressed from all sides and the blade. tightly fixed in the “body” of the product.

Handling techniques

To make the blade strong and tight, during its creation it is required to adhere to the rules of iron handling.

• The semi-finished piece should be free from noticeable and unspectacular defects. Before starting work, the workpieces should be inspected and punched. A sound element that is sound, but one that is faulty is muffled.
• When creating the design and drawing of the configuration of the cutting component, corners must be avoided. The steel can break in such areas. All transitions must be made smooth, without sharp turns. The bevels of the bevel, the blade guard and the handle must be filed down at an angle of 90 degrees.
• Avoid overheating the metal during cutting and machining. This leads to loss of durability. An “overcooked” blade becomes brittle or soft. During machining the part should be cooled down by dipping it into a container with cold water.
• While making the blade from the circular saw blade it is necessary not to forget that this element has already been hardened. The factory saws are designed for working with very hard alloys. If the product is not overheated during cutting and machining, there is no need to quench it.

The tail of the blade should not be too thin. This is the area of the blade that will be under most of the heat.

Tempering

Then it was time to temper the blade. I firstly cleaned the scale that remained after tempering with sandpaper. I set the temperature of my oven to 190 degrees Celsius and put the blade in it for 1 hour. An hour later, I turned off the oven and left the knife in it to cool to room temperature without opening the oven door. You can see the light or bronzing sheen that the blade gets after tempering. After this procedure I sanded the blade with abrasive paper with grit P220 and then changed to P400. In the last picture I use sandpaper P400 and wrap it around the block. I only cut from the shank to the point in one direction. This treatment makes the surface homogeneous.

The best way to saw the workpiece is with an angle grinder with a fine cutting wheel for metal. In case it is not possible to use an angle grinder it is possible to use a hand saw for metal

It is important to mount the saw blade correctly in the hacksaw. The teeth of the file must be pointing forward and the hacksaw must cut while moving away from you

First you saw out the approximate shape of the knife with straight cuts. Then the bends are sawn. The easiest way to cut them is with several oblique notches converging at one point

It is important to leave an allowance of 2-3 millimeters to the outline drawn. This is because when you use an angle grinder it overheats the metal at the place of sawing

Having cut down 2-3 mm with a file and abrasive paper, you can remove the overheated edge of the metal.

Saws knives with our own hands

In this article, I will show you how to make a knife with your own hands from an old circular saw. The main thing for a knife. good metal. For this we will take a good old circular saw circle. The material is reliable enough, it can withstand high loads, it does not burst. What else do we need?

We prepare the model of the blade, we outline it on the metal. Let’s cut the future blade. Grind the blade itself, on the cutter, as shown on the photo.

Let’s start the hardening. To do this, build a fire in the charcoal grill. Reach maximum temperature, add charcoal. Then we keep the blade in the very heat for about one hour. After that we dip the red-hot blade in water (specially prepared jar).

Next, we need to make the handle, cut out the middle of the metal on the holder, for a more secure hold.

Then, with the help of sandpaper and other tools (cutters, etc.) you will be able to use the knife.д.) forming a normal wooden knife handle.

You can also make additional ornaments with the cutter.

This is actually all. Also, a special holster made of leather was made, but about that next time. Finally, some pictures of the finished product.

Options for making a knife

Self-made knife can be made from a variety of metal parts, which are no longer suitable for direct use because they have fallen into disrepair.

Worn motorcycle connecting rods are good for making a set of knives with different blade lengths; cylinder keys with one end broken off; crutches used for laying rails; circular saw blades with different thicknesses and diameters; a hacksaw blade from a pendulum saw that has been damaged.

If you have some skill in forging, you can make a knife out of materials such as thick metal rope or home machine chain. In this case a chainsaw is an excellent choice. Its chain has good strength, it will make a knife similar to Damascus blades.

If the circular saw has a large blade diameter, and minimal damage, it may be enough for two homemade knives. The blades are made of very hard metal, because the saw is designed to work with chains for a long time.

Description of the course of work on the making of the knife

The material used to produce the blade is a mechanical saw made of HSS.

The reason for this choice was the fact that for the manufacture of this saw a reliable industrial hardened steel is used. It is difficult to work, but because it is red-hardened. it can withstand heat for a long time without losing its hardness. it does not need to be cooled.

The mechanical saw has a thickness of 2 mm. this is optimal for a blade. The disadvantages are that the steel can crumble under lateral loads and is weakly protected against corrosion.

The excess was cut off, and with an emery the contour of the future blade was made.

Lines of future chamfers were marked out with caliper, their synchronization on a spike was carefully checked.

Blade is set on a special device for extracting the chamfer. Roughing off metal is made with yellow 3M Cubitron II with P24 grit on a machine with an abrasive band (Grinder).

Then the band was replaced with abrasive P60 and the craftsman proceeded to smoothing the line of descents. further P80, P120. HSS knives don’t need to be permanently cooled during cutting, which makes working process much easier.

It is not desirable to press the metal unnecessarily against the abrasive.

With the help of felt wheel with polishing paste the traces of rancidity of the alloy were corrected. We’d like to remind you that we make our knife from high-speed steel, which doesn’t loose its properties after heating.

After marking the places for the two holes on the shank with a marker pen, these holes were made with a six-millimeter tile drill.

The next step is to make the handle. The workpiece was cut on a band saw to the specified dimensions, a shank was attached to the workpiece, and the first hole in the wooden workpiece was drilled with a regular drill.

According to the idea it was a handle of the straight form of the universal blade, which looks like an octahedron in cross-section. All work was made on the grinder, with wood tapes.

Then we move on to mounting. After measuring the thickness of the handle in the attachment points, we added 2 millimeters, and using a small pipe cutter we cut off pieces of pipe of desired length. The shank of the blade is inserted into the slot of the handle.

The tubes are carefully pressed into the handle, through the shank and flared.

Knives. all about knives: HSS knives

One of the popular materials for making knives is alloyed high-speed steel (commonly known as HSS).

Considering the characteristics of high-speed steels, it should be noted:

• high heat resistance at temperatures below 6000C;
• high hardness up to 70HRC;
• increased wear resistance at high temperatures;
• resistance to deformation (fracture).

Fast-cutting steel of different grades for hunting knives

The indispensable tools of the hunter, applicable for protection against an animal attack, skinning during cutting, paving the way in the wild forest, are hunting knives.

The length, shape of the blade, and material for these knives depend not only on the type of hunting, but also on individual preferences. the most common are knives made of high-speed steel R18.

Steel P18. tool high-speed steel, where P stands for tungsten, and 18 is the percentage of tungsten in the steel.

It is used to make tools that retain their properties when heated during operation up to 6000C and the blades of hunting knives. Knife models Bison, Varan, Hussar, Mangust are produced with blades from high-speed steel R18, hardness 64 HRC.

Blade length. 145mm, thickness of shank. 4mm. Handle is made of different materials. black wenge wood, ebonite, leather.

Also popular are knives made of high-speed steel R12, they are easy to grind, have excellent cutting properties due to the plasticity and high ductility of the steel, they include:

• The hunting knives of the model Berkut, made of HSS R12, have a blade length of 155mm, thickness. 4mm, the handle is made of black hornbeam with recesses for the fingers;
• knife Vostok, steel R12M, hardness 67 HRC, blade length 155mm, thickness of shank 3,2mm, handle is made from hornbeam;
• knife Beaver, steel R12M, blade length. 135mm, thickness of shank. 4mm, handle is made of wenge, shape of blade with flattened point is suitable for cutting of carcass and makes easier skinning.

Hunting knives with blades made of high-speed steel R6M5 have high hardness of 67-68 HRC, high toughness, cutting edge keeps sharp for a long time and does not need to be dressed. Popular models:

• Hunting knife Zimardak. blade length 120 mm; knife Hunter. blade length 109 mm;
• Oksky knife. 147mm long blade;
• Buffalo knife. 180-190 mm long blade, thickness of a shank 3-5 mm, handles are made of hard African bubing, burl, walnut, black hornbeam, wenge and melchior wood.

P18 steel knives compared to P6M5 steel knives have greater hardness, are superior in cutting properties and hold sharpening longer, but have less toughness and durability.

Main models of folding knives

Folding knives are practical and handy, you can always take them with you, putting them in almost any Such knives perform a variety of functions and are distinguished by the following types:

• Classic folding knives with a hollow handle without a locking mechanism;
• folding knives with a locking mechanism, open with two hands, uncomfortable in extreme situations;
• Tactical knives open easily and quickly, which can be dangerous to the owner;
• Automatic folding knives can be opened by pressing a button or a lever, they are compact and easy to use, have a high price.

Folding knives made of high-speed-cut are not inferior to the hunting knives in quality.

Features of the saw knife

A mechanical saw can be used to make a blade, in almost any condition. Even if it has deteriorated and rusted, it will still be suitable for self-made. The product has plenty of advantages:

• the knife will be made for yourself, so it will be unique and will lie well in your hand
• a wide choice of material in both length and width of the curb;
• does not need to be hardened;
• It is realistic to make several knives from a single blade;
• Such a blade will be in the price range of 100 and above, better than the “Chinese” for 30-40.

It really is. Spending not a lot of time, depending on experience, you literally for pennies get a product with good cutting properties. Don’t overheat it while making it, and you’ll get a great knife.