The drill stand with their own hands: 3 design variants
We tell you how to make a budget drill stand for a drill at home by yourself. We offer 3 different options.
This device will come in handy for home craftsmen who can not afford to buy a drilling machine.
At the same time, in some cases, the stand wins due to its compactness and mobility.
If you make a stand of small dimensions that does not require installation on a desktop, it can be easily transported by car (to take with you on field work).
Unlike the same drilling machine, it will allow you to drill holes both vertically and horizontally (for example, if you need to drill a hole in the wall).
To make a stand for a drill with your own hands, we will use inexpensive and affordable materials. And the stand can be used not only for a drill, but also for an electric screwdriver.
The purpose of the homemade stand is the same as that of a drilling machine. vertical drilling holes at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the workpiece.
With an electric drill or an electric screwdriver it is not always possible to drill perfectly flat holes. Makeshift stand (even the simplest design) can easily solve this problem.
Of course, you can buy a stand for an electric drill in a construction store or order online. But if your goal is to save money, it will be more profitable to make it with your own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade stand
The following advantages of homemade devices are highlighted:
- Homemade machine is very cheap.
- When constructing the device you can use details left over from old equipment.
- Find all the drawings and detailed manufacturing algorithms in the public domain.
- You can make a very high quality and technological model. You have the opportunity to make a really good quality device.
- You will need special equipment to make the parts.
- If the guide will be of poor quality, it will greatly affect the accuracy of drilling.
- It is very difficult to make a mechanism superior in quality and functionality to the factory one.
The bed is one of the most important parts of the drill. It can be made of metal or wood. The thickness and dimensions of the base depend on the weight of the structure and the tool. The size of the bed also depends on the type of operations to be performed on the machine:
The bed is attached to the stand, which can be attached by means of screws, it is important to understand that it must be strong enough
The rack may also be made of wood or metal. It is made up of guides (rails for tool movement) and a clamp to hold the tool in place. It is made as follows:
- Clamp the column to the bed.
- Attaching the rail to the rack.
- Mount the carriage, which must be positioned on the rails.
The tool may be clamped to the stand by means of clamps or a special block
How to make a machine for the drill with your own hands.
To make a machine for the drill, we will need the following materials:
- Plastic bottle.
- Plastic lid.
- Drill bit.
- Stationery knife.
- Marker or marker pen for marking.
- Universal adhesive.
The stand of the guide rail of the homemade device
A little about the necessary materials and tools
The most advantageous option. it is to use improvised materials, so do not rush to buy, perhaps most of the parts you will find in your stash. First you will need a profile pipe 20×20 or 25×25. On average a 120 cm long piece will be enough.
In addition to the pipe you need a pair of metal corners. If you don’t have one, you can make one yourself. You will also need two perforated plates, bolts for mounting, metal rope, a lever handle made of metal plate and a piece of rope.
From the tool, prepare a saw for metal, a drill and a wrench. The beauty of this model is that no welding work is required.
Multifunctional drill stand, which allows you to perform a variety of work, usually consists of certain components. First, you need a supporting frame. it is on it all the elements will be fixed. Secondly, there must be a stand. a guide for the drill, used to fix it. This element allows you to move the drill itself using the handle and other elements. Thirdly, the aforementioned handle, which coordinates the vertical movement of the drill part, is important. Finally, there are also additional units, the creation of which makes the machine even more functional.
For example, when performing only vertical drilling, a sheet with sides of 500 millimeters is enough. In the case where you expect much more complex operations, the length should be increased to 1000 millimeters, and the width should remain the same. The stand is vertically placed on the frame, which is fixed by a special support. Usually the two parts are joined together by screw connections.
How to assemble the base of the stand
What’s important in a drill stand? Sturdiness, mobility and the right height. Strength it will provide a profile tube, but the mobility will be due to a special design and the mechanism of lifting and lowering.
Fixing the stand to the platform
Your construction must be stable on the workbench. This stability is provided by a wide platform, which is better to make from solid wood. Keep in mind: together with the drill, the stand will weigh a lot, so the platform must be no less than 20×30 cm.
Pros and cons of the homemade drill stand
Like any other product, assembled with their own hands, self-made holder for the drill has its own positive and negative sides in comparison with the store product. The positive points can include:
- Cheapness. Homemade drilling machine is cheaper than its purchased counterpart.
- It is possible to assemble it from almost anything. Almost any unnecessary equipment and boards will do
- You can find plenty of articles and videos on the Internet about the self-made stands, which will help you choose the right one and assemble it without any problems.
- You can come up with your own design, which will satisfy all the individual needs of the master.
The negative aspects of making a drill holder are:
- Limited functionality. Simple self-made stands do not have a high set of features, for example, you can not change the angle of drilling.
- Backlash due to poor fit of materials. This has a negative effect on quality of machining and drilling accuracy.
- It is necessary to have some tools: a lathe, welding and cutting equipment and skills to work with them. They are necessary for manufacturing of some details of props.
Self-designing the installation allows you to provide additional design elements that expand the functionality of the product and simplify the implementation of technological operations. You can add a swivel plate, vertical level, coordinate table, electric drive and much more to the homemade machine.
Swivel plate allows to make holes located at an angle. To do this, holes are drilled on the bed along the arc for common angles. The drill is secured in operating position with pins. Coordinate table is used for surface milling and slotting. It consists of two mutually perpendicular screw jacks welded together.
The rotation of the lower screw moves the upper part of the table with the workpiece, the upper screw moves only the workpiece. With such a device increases accuracy of work, the main thing is to weld moving elements without distortions.
The self-designing of the installation allows you to provide additional design elements, expanding the functionality of the product and simplifying manufacturing operations. You can add a swivel plate, vertical level, coordinate table, electric drive, and more to the homemade.
Swivel plate allows you to make angled holes. For this, holes are drilled on the bed in an arc for common angles. Drill in working position is secured by pins. Coordinate table is used for milling surfaces and grooving. It consists of two mutually perpendicular screw jacks welded together.
The rotation of the lower screw moves the top of the table with the workpiece, the upper screw moves only the workpiece. The use of such a device improves accuracy of work, the main thing is to weld the moving elements without distortions.
How to assemble a stand base
What’s important in a drill stand? Sturdiness, mobility, and proper height. Its strength will be provided by a profile tube, but the mobility will be due to a special design and mechanism of raising and lowering.
The main part of the stand is a piece of pipe about 60-70 centimeters long. The cuts should be smooth and grinded
The design of the rack is such that the arm with the drill should move up and down on the guide. For this purpose saw off two pieces of profile pipe 10 cm long and fasten them to the plate so that they fit tightly onto the main guide. Do not fix the guide itself to the plate
Cover this structure with the second plate and bolt it down. Check: The two plates should move in relation to the main part, without swinging to the side and without much effort
Now you can mount the arm between the plates. It is positioned at a 90° angle to the main stand, and is secured to the moving part with a pair of bolts
Making the control mechanism
The main work unit of wooden and metal lathes is the carriage movement mechanism. It consists of a control knob and a spring. The last element is necessary to return the carriage to its original position.
It is possible to make two variants of the return mechanism, depending on the place of spring installation:
- The first variant of the mechanism foresees installation of the spring near the control handle. From above, two metal plates are welded to the end of the bar on one and the other side. Drill a hole in the first two plates. Use a 10 mm bolt to make a pivot and fix the end of the handle. A spring is placed between the other two plates. Pins are welded on the rack and handle to prevent it from slipping. On the side of the handle, at the fixing point to the carriage pin, a longitudinal slot is cut through, necessary for correct operation of the mechanism.
- The second variant of the mechanism provides installation of two springs from below the carriage. They are placed in the guide slots, fixed on the ends of the furniture telescopic elements. The control handle is fixed to the end of the stand in a similar way, only the spring is not installed under it.
The principle of any mechanism is simple. During drilling, the crank is pressed down with the springs. The carriage with the drill is guided downwards. When drilling is complete, release the crank. Uncompressing springs return the carriage upward to its original position.
How does the manufacturing process work?
When all preparatory work is complete, you can get down to work. The scheme of work consists of several steps, each of which will be described in detail in this section.
- Making the frame. Self-made frame is the base of the entire structure: it is on the frame where all the other elements of the stand are mounted. Usually made of hard wood or iron. As for the dimensions, it is best to take the parameters 10050. As for the thickness, it should be 3 cm for wood and 2 cm for metal. Sometimes smaller thicknesses are acceptable, but you’d better not economize on the thickness of the material.
- Mounting the stand and the chock on the bed. Cut out these parts from the same material as the frame and fasten them with screws or bolts perpendicularly to the frame. The holder for the drill, made by your own hands, will look like this:
You can also make a carriage using clamps, but it will not be as reliable as a wooden block mounted on iron corners.
And this is how the whole construction will look like:
In general it can be said that making a stand for a drill is a fairly simple process, although it requires a certain skill. But if you are careful, do not hurry and carefully study the drawings, then the self-made rack for a drill will turn out even a person who has initial skills in woodworking.
Of course, the drill stand, made by our own hands, has its disadvantages: lack of accuracy, a little bit shorter service life in comparison with the factory machines, a smaller range of available works. However, cheapness, accessibility, ease of performance and the ability to make a machine according to the individual needs of the craftsman make handmade drill stands quite common.
Studying photos and drawings of drill stands (homemade or factory-made), you can highlight the main design elements inherent in all machines without exception:
Base gives construction stability and dampens vibration from the tool. On it you can find fasteners for the rest of the stand elements, a vice and latches for parts. It is allowed to leave holes in the base for through drilling parts.
Metal or wood (solid wood, plywood) are suitable as a table top material. To combat vibration is not superfluous to add a layer of dense rubber under the base. The base must be solid, the minimum size in plan is 600 x 600 x 30 millimeters. You can make holes in it for fastening to the workbench. it will give additional stability during work.
The guide rail is a vertical rail that is mounted on the base and holds the drill mount. Rails can be metal (pipe, channel) or wood (bar, plywood). Some models (often metal) have a guide rail that is combined with a lifting and lowering mechanism. Detachable laths are installed on the bolted connection, the rigid connection is made by welding. The donor of the ready base with a guide will be a tripod of the failed magnifier or a microscope.
The drill is mounted on clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. As in the case of the rail, mounts can be designed to be removable for different types of drills. Handle is placed on the side or on the top of the construction, with which the position of the cutter in relation to the base can be adjusted.
Drilling machine drives
Making the project of assembling the holder for a drill with your own hands, you should decide on the type of lifting and lowering mechanism that serves for the vertical delivery of the drill to the workpiece. It is the main characteristic of the machine. The following mechanisms are distinguished:
Spring-type, spring-type and hinge-type units are easiest to assemble with your own hands. The drawings of the drilling machine from the spring-type drill suggest placing a spring either directly at the handle, or at the base of the carriage in special slots. It is not possible to mill with these machines if additional clamps are not available, because they require permanent manual checking of the drill position.
Devices based on rack and “star” (gear wheel, car bendix) must also provide additional clamps. They can be carried out, for example, by placing an additional screw on the drill fixture, working on the friction principle. When the cutter reaches the required position, the screw on the guide is tightened, you can proceed to chamfering and grooving.
Screw mechanisms work on the principle of jacks of the same name. They are based on a vertically located tube with a thread, which allows rotation around its axis. On the tube is a nut welded to the drill holder. As the tube rotates, the nut and the tool mount change their position. To increase the stability of the tool during operation, it is also possible to mount it with a slack adjuster.
The wire drive system consists of a tightly wound metal wire, a wire spool welded to the tool mount, and support bars at the upper and lower ends of the wire guide. The metal rope is wound on the spool and tightened on the shackles so that under the weight of the equipment the spool does not slip down. The rope ends are wound into loops and left on the base frame. It is recommended to choose the length of wire with reserve, so that it is possible to use one mechanism on the different size of guides.
Universal machine stand
This device is designed to perform all kinds of drilling, turning and other specialized works, which the drill motor and gearbox can handle. If the tool is powerful, it can do all kinds of work.
Device on display, if it is intended only for drilling, is made of wood (its main parts). If you make a universal stand. make it out of iron or steel plates. The device consists of the following main units:
- The bed. serves as the main supporting element of the entire machine.
- Rack. designed to anchor the drill carriage and allows you to move it with the handle and additional elements.
- Handle. serves to move the carriage along the longitudinal axis of the stand, thus ensuring the supply of rotating tools to the workpiece.
- Additional assemblies. designed to expand the capabilities of the stand and give it new features.
This machine is probably the easiest to install and set up, and additional nodes allow you to turn it into a universal device, which will appeal to many craftsmen-canmakers. Consider the main parts of the machine.
Stand for the drill with your own hands
This unit is a plate of 10 mm (or more) metal or 20 mm (or more)
wood. The greater the power of the tool (drill), the more solid the base must be. The dimensions of the base depend on the work and may vary:
But these dimensions are not final and can be changed to suit your needs.
The cheapest and easiest to reproduce frame is cut from 20-40 mm piece of wood or made from 10-20 mm steel. On it is fixed the main stand (aligned vertically) and a prop made of pieces of the same thickness. Both parts are screwed into each other and underneath (through the base).
Tip: For reliability, you should connect the rack and support with metal corners.
Drill Stand for the Drill
It is made of 20-40mm board or 10-20mm steel plate. Its length is 50-75 cm and depends on the size of the drill used, and its width is 20 cm. On the rack reinforced mechanism to move the drill longitudinally with the device for fixing the drill.
- a support is attached to the frame;
- the vertical strut is screwed to the base and then the strut is screwed to the support;
- On the vertical, strengthen the bases of two rails (telescopic furniture), for example from a table;
- further, to the movable part of the guide screw the carriage with the device for fixing the drill.
Tip: When selecting guide rails, check that there is no transverse play.
The length of the carriage also depends on the dimensions of the drill and is 50-100 cm. It is made of a board or plate of steel of the same thickness and width as the stand. The carriage can be made in two versions:
The drawing shows the construction of a normal drill carriage in a square or rectangular shape. drill. The board is drilled and clamps are inserted through the holes. The clamps are tightened with an appropriate screwdriver.
The shoe is a plate screwed perpendicular to the axis of the carriage and reinforced by metal corners. In the shoe drilled a hole 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the “front” of the drill and a slot is made for reliable fixation of the tool.
The hole is drilled with a special nozzle (cylindrical) or as follows:
- measure the diameter of the tool and draw a circle;
- inside the circle (closer to the line) a number of holes are drilled;
- Use a file, knife or saw to cut through the remaining partitions;
- using a semi-circle or circular file, smooth out the circumference to the required gauge.
The movement mechanism can be made in two versions:
- Two metal plates are screwed to the main stand at one end, between which an axis for the handle is inserted (an M8-M12 screw can be used).
- On the other side are also screwed plates, between which is a spring. To limit the possibility of its jumping to the side are pins, one of which is mounted on the stand, and the other on the handle, which moves between the plates.
- There is a longitudinal groove in the handle for proper operation of the mechanism.
- A pin or axle is fastened to the carriage to provide vertical movement.
And in this case the side plates and the central pin of the handle are used, but the springs are located in the grooves of the furniture rails, which are slightly reworked. Regular metal corners are inserted and screwed into the slots to prevent the springs from slipping deep into the guides.
The operation of the mechanism is simple. Pressing the lever moves the drill carriage downward, allowing you to drill a part. During the operating stroke of the carriage, the springs are compressed to store energy. When the lever is released, the energy of the springs is diverted back into the carriage and the carriage moves vertically upward.
By modifying the rack with an uncomplicated node, you can drill holes at an angle and do uncomplicated wood turning and milling work.
For small milling work, it is necessary for the part to move horizontally. To feed, a second stand of the same kind is used which is mounted horizontally on the base frame. Only instead of a drill, a vise should be attached to it.
The distance from the edge of the part to the groove to be cut is limited by the gap from the drill to the vertical guides. For the horizontal feed, you can use a lever system (with a handle), but to avoid difficulties, find a mechanism for feeding the machine table (screw).
Angle drilling and turning work
To perform these operations, it is necessary to supplement the stand with a turning mechanism, which is an additional plate (DP) with holes arranged in an arc. All parts of the feeder and carriage are placed on this additional plate, which rotates on an axis fixed to the main stand.
Main angles of inclined holes. 30 o. 45 о. 60 о. The turning mechanism can be made as follows:
- First a hole is drilled in the rack and in the swivel plate for the axis;
- then, measuring the angles with a protractor or other measuring instrument, drill holes in a circle on the BF;
- then align the axial holes of both plates and fix them with the screw;
- after that bore three holes through the BF on the column as shown in the picture.
The supplementary plate is rotated to the desired angle and fixed on the back side of the post with three pins or screws with nuts (the latter is preferred).
Carry out the turning operation by turning the additional plate horizontally. Due to the small size of the drill chuck. parts of large caliber on it can not handle.