Door installation tool: 7 basic fixtures
The door installation tool is essential for people who are going to install a door or cut a lock. Read on for what you can’t do without in this workflow.
The basic tool for installing interior doors
Installing interior doors is a troublesome business and it is not enough to have one door and a pair of screwdrivers to carry it out. It is also advisable to have a whole set of necessary tools in order to do this work with high quality.
So, what are the basic tools needed to install door leaves:
- Drill – it is needed to drill the necessary holes of different sizes, fix the hinges, tighten the screws;
- Puncher – with this useful tool, you can enlarge or align the door span, drill holes for dowels and perform other necessary actions;
- Jigsaw – with its help, the process of removing platbands and accessories becomes simple and easy (mainly used where it is difficult to use a saw);
- Manualmilling cutter (plus cutters) – "helps" to prepare places for door hinges and the locking mechanism, removes an extra layer of wood from the door or door frames;
- Miter and circular (circular) saw – these types of saws allow you to make both smooth longitudinal cuts of the material, and at a certain angle;
- Angle Grinder – it is used to fit platbands if the walls are very curved;
- Screwdriver with attachments – allows for fixing screws and other fasteners.
But in addition to electrical appliances and equipment, when installing doors, you cannot do without hand tools, such as:
- Normal hammer – needed to hammer nails or other details;
- Construction knife – it is convenient for them to cut off all unnecessary;
- Chisel – perfect for inserting door hinges and other fittings;
- Screwdriwer set – will be needed for fastening various parts;
- Building level – ideal "helper" for checking the flatness of the surface;
- Roulette – measuring tool (preferably using a three or five meter tape).
Competent and professional door installation
It often happens that people doubt their abilities and do not risk taking up the installation of doors on their own. In this case, professional work helps. Specially trained people quickly and efficiently install the door, cut the lock, adjust the door leaf.
However, if a person has some carpentry skills, you can try to put the doors on your own, but for this you need to purchase a quality tool. Now you can buy professional kits for such work.
The advantages of this set:
- Everything you need is at hand;
- The kit is suitable for any type of door installation work;
- No need to drill through the door frame;
- Many of the elements are flush-mounted;
- The decorative finish of the door will not suffer a bit.
Assembling the door yourself or using the services of a professional – the choice is yours.
Accessories for installing interior doors
When working with interior doors, you may need not only the main tool, but also some auxiliary devices, as well as consumables.
Additional accessories required for door installation:
- Bubble level – used to measure the angle of inclination of vertical or horizontal surfaces;
- Steel ruler – very convenient for carrying out any small measuring work;
- Checking metal square – may be needed when setting up an electric tool, as well as for measuring angles;
- A gun filled with sealant or polyurethane foam is very convenient when applying sealants;
- Spacers as long as the width of the doorway;
- Pneumatic wedges are special wedges that are air cushions that can be used as supporting ballast while working with the door;
- Simple pencils or markers – do not pick up these devices with a very stiff shaft, otherwise the marks made will be difficult to erase.
In addition to additional tools, it should be borne in mind that you will need various consumables, without which you cannot do the job.
What else do you need to have on hand:
- Chisels and files for a perforator;
- Drill bits;
- Router cutters;
- Discs for angle grinder;
- Masking tape;
- Polyurethane foam or sealant;
- Self-tapping screws for installing a lock, platbands and door hinges.
When working with door slopes and plastering, you may need spatulas, brushes or rollers, mortar containers, grouting agents.
End saw for wood 210mm Intertool DT-0621
Most devices have a brushed motor. It is much smaller than asynchronous, with similar dimensions and weight, has a high torque and is able to develop 5000-6000 rpm. The disadvantages include increased operating noise and the need for maintenance.
An asynchronous motor is preferable, but rarely installed on miter saws. Its main drawback is weight. It is difficult to lift the saw unit with a motor over 10 kg.
The connection of the electric motor with the equipment can be carried out:
The saw blade is mounted directly onto the shaft. The absence of contacting parts ensures high reliability of such a circuit and quiet operation. The disadvantages are: low, compared to other installation methods, torque and minimum cutting height. When inserting and tilting the saw unit not only to the left, but also to the right, it will rest against the workpiece with its end part of the body, not allowing you to make a deep cut at an angle.
Through straight gears.
This design allows you to raise the trimming motor higher, and when installing helical teeth, turn it as much as possible from the axis of attachment of the equipment.
By using pulleys, you can significantly distance the motor from the blade and place it not on the right, but behind the saw unit. Belts, due to their elasticity, partially damp vibrations that occur when cutting fibers, which in the case of direct transmission would affect the bearings. The elasticity of the connection softens the action of overload in the event of a jam. The belts will simply slide over the pulleys.
Crosscut 305 mm with pull and belt drive Sturm MS55305BL
Miter saw 210mm Scheppach SX8L / HM 80L
Sliding miter saws.
The disadvantage of the tool design is the small length of the cut. The disk descends vertically onto the workpiece by about a third and the cut length is much less than the diameter.
This parameter can be increased by installing a broaching mechanism on the angle cutter, when the saw unit rests on two horizontal guides, and they move inside the rack, which is performed not vertically, but slightly tilted back.
Such a device allows you to increase the cut from 80-200 to 240-340 mm (maximum 430 mm). Having installed a wide material, the worker simply pulls the saw head towards himself.
For high-quality work, the manufacturer must ensure sufficient structural rigidity and the absence of backlash, which is not easy to do due to the large number of moving joints.
Combined tool with a saw table.
On both feed-through side saws and standard models, a die-cast aluminum platform can be installed at the top. The disc coming out of its slot allows you to create a mini circular on the base of the angle cutter for opening the boards along the length.
The saw unit locks in the down position. The power button is fixed after pressing. Pushing short workpieces is carried out with a plastic pusher.