Angle grinder can do a lot
Including. become the basis for a cutting machine for metal, wood and other cutting materials, t.к. The change of cutting disk on any commercially available saw blade is a trifle matter. Not a trifle in this case. unbalance of the single-arm rocker (see. further), so that the pendulum in the full sense of the angle grinder from the angle grinder will no longer. A double wishbone with a counterbalancing weight is not the answer. the rebound would be unacceptably long delayed at the start and too sharp at the end.
Unfortunately, there is no possibility to give the drawings with explanations of the ready self-made machines of such kind. there are too many different lathes on sale. Therefore let’s dwell on the most essential points. If you have at least a rough idea of the drawings above, you’ll be able to construct. And we’ll tell you how to succeed without turning or even welding. Time of implementation in metal? Half a day or two if you’ve already done some things by hand.
the angle grinder is bolted to the frame in one of the threaded holes for the side handle. Angle grinders are mainly made in horizontal and vertical circuits. In the first case the body of the basic tool is fixed along the rocker; in the second case it is fixed transversely upwards. The longitudinal scheme is advantageous in that the angle grinder is easy to protect against rotation in operation, secured to the body clamping “rope. But the vertical scheme (see the diagram on the left) is not the most convenient. Fig. the right-hand side) is better in all other respects: it is much more convenient to work, the short, rigid swing arm makes it easy to swivel (see pinchwheel on the right side) and the sander can be easily swivelled (see pinchwheel on the right). the following figure) to achieve a “true pendulum” quality of cut, and the recoil spring is not as strong, which is also ergonomic.
Homemade cutting machine vertical circuit from the angle grinder (angle grinder)
A seeming disadvantage of the vertical circuit. the possibility of turning the tool on the fly, t.к. the fixing bolt can loosen due to vibration. But in the majority of bolt cutters you can drill a couple of small blind holes next to the handle’s mounting hole (the possibility is determined by examining the disassembled gearbox. And you can easily screw the fixing pins into the mounting plate. To not have to redo it, we act in this order:
- Examining the disassembled tool to determine where you can locate clips. You need 3-4 mm depth for them; the diameter is the same. Deeper and wider is not necessary, why weaken the gear case for nothing.
- Let’s measure exactly where the pins will be relative to the threaded fixing holes and draw a sketch.
- In the mounting plate we mark out the holes for fixing pins. In mirror image, do not forget! You can sketch on thin paper and apply it to the plate with a drawing so that the contours of the fixing holes coincide.
- Drill pioneer holes for the retainers. Smaller for now, as long as the thinner scriber can fit through. The best option in this case is a gypsy needle or a shoemaker’s awl.
- Let’s put a bigger tool with a disk on the plate and using a pair of locksmith’s squares expose it (disk) strictly vertically. Carefully, so as not to disrupt the installation, tighten the fastening screws. It is better to do this operation with a knowledgeable helper.
- Through the holes in the plate, mark on the gearbox housing where to drill the holes for the retainers.
- We drill holes in the angle grinder, and in the plate pre-drill to the size of holes for fixing and put them. You can use M3-M4 screws, screwed from the underside of the plate; then you need threaded holes for them too.
- Reinstall the tool and check the disc for verticality. It is not terrible that the tool has gone a little. You can file one or both of the retainers on the side until it is eccentric and twist it by sharpening the tool. In this case, the retainers are fixed (forced repetition) with paint, metal glue or cold welding.
The rebound spring (return, rebound) is installed in any suitable place of the homemade cut-off machine, see “The rebound spring (rebound spring)”. picture. below. Only 2 conditions must be met: first, the initial feed force should be 10-12 N (1-1.2 kgf), matched to the hand. This is larger than in the pendulum machine, so it will not be as comfortable to work. Secondly, if you press the tool all the way down and then drop the handle suddenly, there is no way to bounce it back. In this sense, the designs on the left and right in Fig.
Possible options for installing a rebound spring in cut-off machines made from angle grinders
Quality of the cut with an angle grinder is almost entirely determined by the swing of the tool in the transverse vertical plane and lateral displacement along the same. The design of the hinge (and part of the frame), almost completely eliminating both, is shown on the trail. Fig. Basic materials. scraps of tube, bar and balls from bearings D(815). Made “on the knee” knot is no less accurate and stable than the complex “proprietary”. Only corners of forked frame need to be welded, but if it is bent from thick strip, it is not necessary.
Design of a rocker arm hinge of a self-made angle grinder cut-off machine
Before assembly, any grease, even steam locomotive fuel, is applied to the tube cavity. Centering and backlash correction. with side bolts secured with inner locknuts and those secured with paint/glue. The ridge is welded in place prior to assembly; it can be threaded in place afterwards as well.
Which is not necessary
The most serious mistakes when making homemade cutting machines based on the angle grinder, firstly, not rigid enough mount the tool to the rocker, e.g. out of balance with respect to the point of application of the reverse cutting force (pos. And Fig.). the tool tilts during cutting, the cutting is tight, it is vertically beveled and torn, and the blade wears out quickly.
Examples of unreasonably complicated execution of home-made cutting machines from angle grinders
Second, to mount the angle grinder by the safety guard (pos. B) is simply dangerous. And why, the question arises? For the sake of unnecessary and pointless work? There are also regular, load-calculated fixing holes, one of which is always free.
Now that we’ve talked about nonsense, I can’t help but dwell on the constructions of beds and rockers. Look at the trail. Picture.:
Examples of wrong constructional design of home-made cutting machines from lathes
The desire of the authors of these works to achieve their rigidity and stability is commendable. But it would not hurt to study before at least the most basics of strength of materials, thermal mechanics and construction mechanics. And the calculations show them: a fork made of profiled tubing from 25x25x1,5 up to 200 mm wide and 150 mm high, and a ridge made of the same tubing from 40x40x2 up to 350 mm long (any angle grinder is laid flat) is more than enough to obtain a cutting accuracy better than 1 mm. Quite sufficient for such delicate work as trimming at the corner of interior door trims. If the machine “plays” anyway, don’t prop up a plywood shack with oak stakes (figuratively). Look for design flaws.
Note: options for homemade machine beds for cut-off saws, see “Cutting machines”. в
Besides perpendicular cross cuts, very often you need a 45 degree angle cuts, rarely. to an arbitrary predetermined angle. Purchase a turntable with angle divider? Will start to cost about 40 if a good durable one. And a non-adjustable jigsaw for cutting with a hand hacksaw under the machine will be enough for 4-5 workpieces at most.
The simplest solution is a cutting machine table with a lateral longitudinal stop and fixed angle marks, pos. And in Fig.:
Table designs for angle-cutting machines
Adjustment. by turning the table or machine with clamps secured. A serious drawback. long and tedious changeover from angle to angle. It can be lightened by aligning once for each angle, precisely cutting grooves in the table with the disc. Then the adjustment comes down to setting the disc along the groove, but still. when working continuously for 8 hours. Up to an hour or more of time is wasted on the shift. A tubular turntable and a home-made table with an angle divider (pos. it is more difficult to make a tubular turntable (pos. B), but the loss of working time with them will not exceed that for the “rest” of the tool.
Sometimes, and not infrequently, you have to make longitudinal cuts of limited length on a generally cross-cutting machine. E.g., Narrow straight grooves and grooves in thin material. That on a circular saw is generally impossible, and the cutter with a special table (quite complicated and cumbersome) is unlikely. This is where a cutting machine with a broach. a working device that extends along the course of the cut will help, see. the trail. Figure.:
Homemade cutting machine with a broach from an angle grinder
Its design is not for beginners, so let’s limit the video description to the following. roller:
cutting is much more common: only cut perpendicularly, but quickly, a lot and exactly the right size; there is simply no room for a “normal” cutting machine. For example., The craftsman cuts billets for construction in a cramped hovel, also used as temporary housing. Or IE trades a long rod “in the cut” in a tent at the iron market. Well, craftsmen have invented and for such cases came up with cutting mini-stanovok in the form of an attachment to an ordinary locksmith’s vise, see. Fig.:
Cutting mini-machine from an angle grinder. an attachment to a locksmith’s vise
And how to make such a useful device. video at the end:
Metal saw with your own hands
Any construction or major repair is unlikely to do without boards and various planks. All this material must be sawn to the right size.
Of course, you can buy ready-made boards or bars. But it will require a large financial outlay. Therefore, many home masters and professionals prefer to do everything themselves.
And this requires the right tool, e.g. a band saw. And in this case you should not immediately run to the store to buy a machine.
If you have a little experience, you are sure to have a homemade band saw. And about the technology of its manufacture will be told in this article.
Pendulum saws with their own hands
Cutting machines, or they are also called pendulum saws, found their application in various fields: mechanical engineering, metalworking, woodworking industry. Sometimes there is a need to use such a stationary machine and in the home, when you want to get a straight cut of certain materials. To do it with an angle grinder, which is held in the hand, it is impossible, so sometimes there is a need to learn about how to make a self-cutting machine from improvised materials.
Making a homemade band saw will help to solve a number of difficult problems:
- Performing the cutting of sheet metal;
- Cutting ceramic pieces;
- Cutting materials at any angle;
- making the same type of products;
- cutting metal profiles into pieces of desired length.
Buying a stationary machine for home use makes no sense, because it is quite expensive, and the payback may take several years. To save money, but to have your own cutting machine in the garage, you should resort to making it yourself.
Instructions for assembling a stationary angle grinder for metal cutting
There are many schemes for making the bed and brackets for the homemade pendulum cutting machine from the angle grinder. We can recommend that you use old automobile shock absorbers, which will allow you to make a bracket with the ability to adjust the output of the angle grinder. This greatly extends the possibilities of using such equipment, and the cost of acquiring old worn out shock absorbers is minimal.
It is not advisable to use shock absorbers as a supporting structure because of their thin walls, therefore it is necessary to additionally reinforce the brackets with a steel tube of a suitable diameter.
All elements of the construction are cut by means of an angle grinder, from which the subsequent crosscut saw will be assembled. Used metal elements for the base and brackets can be connected using a welding machine.
After assembling all the main components should be tested, measure the possible cutting angles and finally fit all the elements to each other. After the base is assembled, the metal elements should be painted with a special rust-preventive paint.
Metal mitre saw with your own hands
arm and head brackets are recommended to be secured by studs using ball bearing elements. This will tighten the mounting nuts tightly at the same time, allowing the rocker arm to move with ease, without play or jamming.
When the metal construction is ready, you must adjust the departure of the axis of the angle grinder, for which the rod shock absorbers fixed two nuts and a threaded rod.
To the metal rod shock absorber should be welded eyelets, which will later be attached to the angle grinder or angle grinder saw. Beforehand, you should make such mounting eyelets according to the size of the tool you have and make appropriate holes in the metal brackets for fixing the angle grinder.
All that remains to do is to attach to the workbench and the made bracket the angle grinder with a cut-off wheel installed. Be sure to install the protection, and then check the availability of the machine, and if necessary, adjust the flight of the shock absorber rod, which will ensure a comfortable and convenient work with the cut-off machine on the angle grinder.
Making a metal cut-off saw with your own hands is not particularly difficult. It is only necessary to use a strong and reliable bed and properly make the brackets, on which later will be attached to the angle grinder. On the Internet you can find a variety of simple drawings of the cutting machine from the angle grinder with their own hands, the use of which will greatly simplify your work, and with the performance of such a tool every homeowner will cope.
How to make a workpiece?
We will find out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal blade for making the blade. Draw on it the workpiece of the future
of the tool, using a marker for this purpose.
Remember that the knife is considered a cold weapon, if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you improperly build a saw knife, and it will be considered a cold weapon. wait for the punishment.
Having outlined the outline of the future product, take the shape of the undercut. It is important to draw the shape so that the product is placed in the area of the saw’s teeth. Because of the saw’s wires, if you make shoes in this area, you will have to do extra work to transfer the bulge.
Disc cutoff saws are tools that are based on a special platform or frame made of metal. The machine itself is equipped with details that ensure a reliable fixation of the material in a certain position at the required angle during its cutting.
As a cutting element in such designs uses a disk made of high-speed steel. It is also called a carbide cutter. Also can be used for cutting metal with a wheel coated in the form of an abrasive material. The cutting element is driven by an electric motor with a belt or gear train.
Scheme of the device of the metal cutting machine of the pendulum type
Please note! In low-power versions of the tool is allowed to use a cutting element mounted directly on the shaft of the electric motor. In other cases, such use of a disc can be dangerous.
Disc machines have three different feeds of the cutting component:
According to the number of cutting elements, machines can be:
- single-headed. only one cutting disc is included in the unit, so when it is necessary to change the operation, the cutting edge is readjusted according to the new task;
- Double-headed. design allows two tools to be used at the same time, thus increasing the efficiency. These machines have one head in a fixed position and remain stable; the second head can be moved. Two-head designs can perform the work automatically.
Example of a cutting machine for metal, made by own hands
Making a circular metal cutting machine with your own hands: procedure
When making a machine designed to work with metal, the steps are as follows:
- The guards for the drive belt and the cutting-off disk are prepared.
- The motor is installed. The drive belt serves as a connecting part between the cutting element shaft and the motor.
- The shaft is made, on which the drive pulley is to be mounted and the cutting disc is to be installed. The assembly is to be assembled and then mounted on a pendulum. In this case the pendulum is the movable upper part of the construction, where the cutting element and the motor are located.
- The shaft for fixing the pendulum is machined.
- The frame for the machine installation is made. Spark arrester and workpiece are fastened on it.
- Swingarm is mounted on the frame.
- The electrical cables are installed.
- Test run of the tool and setting up of the equipment.
As a cutting element in homemade cutting machines is used a disk made of high-speed steel, or a circle with a coating in the form of abrasive material
Calculation of the pulley for a homemade metal cutting machine
Calculation of the pulley diameter is carried out taking into account the rotational speed of the blade and other parameters. Assuming a motor power rating of at least 300W, the platter will have a minimum rotational speed of 3,000 rpm./min., and its size in diameter is 40 cm.
Useful tip! During metal cutting, the nut in the disc locking area can unscrew. To avoid this it is advisable to locate the drive pulleys on the left hand side and the disk on the shaft on the right hand side.
Discs are usually marked with a manufacturer’s label which indicates the maximum acceptable rotational speed. In this case the figure is 4400 rpm./min. Therefore it is allowed to choose any speed within the range of 3000-4400 rpm./min.
- the rotational speed of the motor is 1500 rpm./min.;
- the diameter of the pulley designed to be mounted on the shaft is 6.5 cm;
- disk rotational speed. 3000 rpm./min.
Drawing of a frame-type cutting machine (the dimensions of the frame depend on the dimensions of the tool used)
The calculation is performed in the following sequence:
- Set the perimeter length of the shaft. For this we multiply the number π, which is equal to 3,14 by the size of the diameter: 3.14 x 6.5 = 20.41 cm (perimeter shaft length).
- The value obtained is multiplied by the required number of revolutions: 20.41 x 3000 rpm./min. = 61230 cm/min.
- The result must be divided by the number of engine revolutions: 61230 cm/min/1500 rpm./min. = 40.82 cm (perimeter pulley length for the motor).
- Divide the result by the number of π: 40,82 cm/3,14 = 13 cm (required pulley size).
Calculation of the belt length for self-made metal cutting machine with your own hands
The following data will be needed to perform these calculations:
Having two pulleys with dimensions of 13 cm and 6.5 cm, we can make the necessary calculations. Since the distance between the centers of these elements can be varied (since the belt must be tensioned), we will take as an example a section of 50 cm length.
The larger the diameter of the cutting element, the easier it is to cut thicker metal
Now you need to calculate 1/2 the circumference of each of the pulleys. Since the drive belt runs between them twice, you must add twice the distance between the center points to this value.
Useful tip! To get a more accurate result, you should make calculations with the maximum and minimum distance between the central points of the pulleys and choose an average value.
To independently make a machine design for working with metal, you should prepare the necessary tools.
Drawing of a pendulum-type cut-off machine: left. base dimensions, right. pendulum design features
Mandatory set of tools and materials include:
- welding machine;
- metal angle (steel);
- channel and chain
- on/off button;
- The shaft and the electric motor;
- an electric drill;
- Sheet steel for creating the work surface;
- A box to house the machine’s electrical components.
Principles of building a metal cutting machine
The scheme of making a homemade machine tool is subject to certain principles, they must be taken into account before taking up the case:
- It is very important to choose the right gear and carry out its installation. This component determines the torque retention and its correct transmission from the motor to the cutting element (disk);
- Be sure to include a vice. This tool contributes to a more comfortable work, and also increases its degree of safety;
The presence of a vice increases the level of comfort and safety when working with a homemade machine
- Selecting the optimum cutting angle. Allowable range is within 45-90°. In most cases, experts give preference to cutting at a right angle;
- the diameter of the cutting disc is chosen based on the materials that the master will work with in the future with this machine. The larger the diameter of the cutting element, the easier it will be to cope with the cutting of thick metal;
- When designing and drawing such parameters as dimensions of the future machine and its weight must be taken into account. These values are directly influenced by the materials from which the equipment will be made. The layout of the parts is also important.
Please note! When drawing, special attention should be paid to the vibration mounts, which are installed on the legs.
Assembling the metal frame for the cutting machine
Once all the tools are prepared and the drawings selected, you can proceed directly to the process of creating the machine. Using steel angle, it is necessary to make the frame part of the construction. According to the drawings, which you can make yourself or find on the Internet, cut out the elements of the frame. They are all joined together by welding. It is necessary to check beforehand the conformity of dimensions.
The process of creating a frame for a metal cutting machine
A channel is welded to the upper part of the frame. it will become a guide element and serve as a base for further installation of the cutting component on the machine. This channel is a kind of connecting link between the electric motor and the cutting element. After that the vertically placed supports are bolted to it.
Another frame structure will need to be welded. The dimensions are individually adapted to the dimensions of the electric motor and its special features. When choosing an electric motor for the machine, it is better to pay attention to the modifications of the asynchronous type. This type of equipment is characterized by high reliability and durability.
There is one subtlety in choosing a motor. The more powerful the motor, the smoother the blade will run.
Assembly of the electrical component for the machine
The installation of the equipment involves assembling and connecting the working shaft to the machine’s electric motor. The way in which it can be done is not crucial. If there are instructions for this procedure on the drawings, it is better to follow them, since the quality of installation determines the correct operation and reliability of the tool.
For homemade cutting machines it is better to use asynchronous type electric motors
Useful tip! Some parts that you can not make yourself, you can order from a turner. These include the flanges for securing, as well as the pulley.
To fix the motor on the metal frame, it is better to use a bolted connection with nuts. It is recommended to place a box close to the motor where there is a switch and an electrical circuit, as well as a remote control for controlling the tool.
The channel designed to hold the cutting wheel is better placed on a spring. You need to make it so that when you release it, it returns to its original place. To fix the spring you can use bolts and a clamp.
The electrical component is the most important part of the tool. Always include in the construction a circuit for starting, as well as a button for emergency stop of the machine. You need to achieve such an arrangement of parts, so that the electric motor will be connected to electricity by means of a machine and a box, and not directly. A three-way automatic starter is enough to start the engine and start it properly. It will also power the on/off button.
Finally, it is worth taking care about the presence of protective devices, which will protect people during work. To do this you need to make a protective cover. It prevents sparks and small metal particles from getting into the eyes.
Protective cover is a prerequisite for working with your own handmade metal cutting machine, protecting your eyes from sparks and small metal particles
Homemade cutting machine and table
Dear visitors to the site Samodelkin a friend from the author’s submitted master class you will learn how you can make a cutting machine with a 3 phase motor and a bunch of scrap metal. Every self-respecting craftsman simply must have in his studio angular grinder, but when working for a long time with an angle grinder begin to have problems with his back, because when processing, sawing metal has to bend, which is not very that professional. Many people now convert the angle grinder into cutting machines, which greatly increases productivity. But our author went even further and created a machine tool absolutely from scratch, having a 3-phase engine even Soviet production and metal in the form of an angle, pipe and sheet. Also a table was welded from the angle, and the table top has a thickness of 5 mm.
It is quite convenient to work with such a machine, you no longer have to bend your back over the metal, but simply put the workpiece on the table, clamped by the vise and the sawing part is lowered. With a powerful motor set at 1500 rpm, metal is cut like butter.
And so, let’s look at what exactly the author will need to assemble the machine?
- 3 phase electric motor 1500 rpm
- profiled tube with a square cross section
- cutting disc
- 2 and 5 mm sheet metal
- automatic shutdown
- angle grinder
- welding machine
- wrench set
The process of making a cutting machine with your own hands.
And so, the first thing the author begins to turn the spindle on the lathe, it is turned under 306-e bearings and has a diameter of 30 mm. On one side is the mounting area for pulley, and on the other side is the mounting and threading for the cutting wheel.
Two pieces of plywood are cut from the pipe.these are the seat rings for the bearings. The bearing is inserted into a ring and placed on the spindle. After another piece of pipe is cut off, it will connect the 2 planting rings. Nails on the edges, the main thing is not to weld the bearing itself))) As already said, on one side is mounted the pulley. And on the other side will be installed a cutting disc. After that the frame is made, with holes made for adjustment and belt tensioning. Trying on and installing the electric motor. Further the master works on making a protective cover for the cutting-off disk. For that 2 mm metal and a corner piece are used. A corner of the guard is welded to the machine frame. The joint is made of 2 pipes of different diameters by inserting one into the other. Table is welded from the angle and sheet metal 5 mm. A hinge is welded to the table top. The handle is made from profiled pipe and steel rod. This is what you get. To fix the workpiece requires a vice and it will be made from a water valve. One corner stays stationary, while the other moves and clamps the workpiece. To protect the belt we also made a cover. Installed. Automatic machine is connected. Spark protection. Added shelves of plywood in the lower part of the table. Painting. And this is how the machine looks like in its completed form. Here is such a great and powerful cutting machine in our master, now he can quietly and without straining his back to work for a long time, and it increases productivity and income respectively. Harvested the machine from scrap metal looks not a little worse than the factory analog, and most importantly get a miracle machine almost for free (if you have the necessary components and spare parts) If you liked the material, we invite you to our group Come, we have a lot of useful information.
Top 6 drawings on the cutting machine from the angle grinder with their own hands: the best designs with a description of the assembly
Top 6 drawings will help make a cutting machine from the angle grinder with their own hands without errors and unnecessary costs. Answers to Frequent Questions, Recommendations.
- The correct variant is b). Foot switches are more convenient because they act quickly.
- Theoretically. enough power in all three variants. In practice, a). electric and pneumatic models are used. No battery is required for a stationary machine. For pneumatic drive, you will need to buy a compressor with the appropriate capacity.
- 900 W or more. Use correction if you intend to machine workpieces made of relatively soft materials, or at high speed.
- Both are correct. Powerful angle grinder is suitable for various machines of domestic and semi-professional level.
- Two fixing options are permissible. Professionals prefer the top.
Saw Stop. This guy puts a finger into an active table saw blade & comes away without a scratch!
The power angle grinder is suitable for many applications. To reduce labor costs while increasing accuracy, it is used as the basis for the machine.
“angle grinder” is a common name for an angle grinder (angle grinder). By changing the disc, this versatile machine is converted for trimming, performing other work operations.
Assembly saws are a special type, they are used in construction and during repair work. They are characterized by increased convenience and abundance.
But the construction of the assembly saw is greatly simplified. The pendulum mechanism makes cuts only at right angles, not being able to change degrees. Working blade in ordinary metal, without carbide coating.
For the convenience of use in such tools use a belt drive, it allows you to make the work smoother, without jerks.
Working with such a tool has a number of features:
- Because of the high torque, the saw needs to be held firmly and start smoothly to avoid a sharp jolt.
- The workpiece must be secured before sawing.
- The place of the cut should be cleaned as a burr forms on the workpiece during sawing.
How a reciprocating saw is designed?
Wood pendulum saws are similar in principle to circular blade saws. The only difference between the two types of saws is that pendulum saws have a cutting blade that moves during operation by means of a pendulum device, while the circular model’s blade remains stationary.
This saw makes a precise and clean cut at a 90 degree angle. Some models are able to cut at a different angle with an inclined saw blade.
An abrasive saw blade can be used for cutting metal or hardwood. Different blade configurations are available for different applications. Universal circular blades for any kind of workpiece material are also available.
In any saw it is obligatory to install guards, which reduce the risk of getting damaged by the rapidly rotating saw blade.
The main disadvantages of these cut-off saws:
- To saw by hand, you need to make a lot of effort, which leads to rapid fatigue;
- cut-off model as well as a jigsaw mechanism can saw a limited thickness of the workpiece;
- the device has a small capacity, so it is used as additional equipment or for domestic tasks.