Circular hand saw. device, principle of operation, features of different types
To work with wood, plastic and even metal workpieces at home, a circular hand saw is often used as a more productive analogue of the simplest tool for sawing. It has several varieties and nuances of application, which is important to consider when working.
When building and repairing both your home and on a professional basis, a handy aid in the work becomes a circular hand saw. The tool is very handy for cutting different types of wood thicknesses, thin metal or plastic products, such as baseboards. Such a manual circular saw has several varieties, but the construction of each of them is typical. The standard design consists of:
- Plastic protective body with one or two handles.
- A special guard for the circular saw blade to protect the blade during sawing operations.
- A platform to hold and guide the blade. It is needed to adjust the depth and angle of the cut.
- Disengaging blade. It is needed in order to release the blade if it gets stuck in the wood.
- Electric motor. A special disk is screwed onto its shaft.
Circular saw repair with your own hands
Proceeding to repair the unit with your own hands, it is not necessary to disassemble it completely to find out the causes of failure. Some malfunctions are characterized by specific symptoms which can be used to identify the problem and to disassemble this or that part of the machine.
Saw does not turn on
If when you press the start button the unit’s motor “goes silent”, the first thing you should focus on is the mains cable, provided that there is electricity in the socket (plug the unit into another socket to check).
Tip! Before checking the cable, disassemble the electrical plug and make sure that the cord wires are securely connected to its pins.
To check the electrical cord, disconnect the handle. This will help you get to the pins where the power cord wires are soldered. Next, use a tester to test each wire by pressing one probe against a soldered contact and the other against the plug pin.
If the power cord is intact, do the following to find the problem.
- Use a tester to test the entire circuit, starting from the cable input to the unit to the starter button. Also the in and out contacts of the button should be checked when the button is depressed. In a normal condition, a broken circuit should close. Check all wires after the button to the motor brushes.
- If all is well with conductors, check how worn electrodes of brushes. Once the electrode has worn down to 2/3 of its original size, it should be replaced. Brushes, no matter how worn each one is, replace them in pairs.
- If the brushes are in good condition, it is likely that the motor has failed. There could be a breakage or an inter-turn fault in the winding. In such a case, it is better to entrust the repair of the motor to specialists who will make rewind the stator coils or armature.
The motor is warm
The machine can become excessively hot, e.g. if it is used intensively or for hardwood sawing or if a saw blade with a high number of teeth is used, when the load on the motor is multiplied. Also causes the motor to overheat due to stator and armature winding faults that can only be rectified by Customer Services.
Brushes are burning
Strong arcing from under the brushes is caused by excessive brush wear and tear when the spring can no longer press the electrodes to the collector with the required force. To replace the brushes, you need to unplug the motor cover or remove them through special holes in the motor housing (depending on the model of electric saw).
The shaft gets jammed during operation
This fault can occur when for any reason the stopper is pressed during tool operation. It is designed to hold the shaft in place when changing accessories and should be used after the motor has come to a complete stop. Otherwise the sensor stem breaks and pieces of the sensor fall into the motor, causing it to jam. It is not uncommon for this to distort the armature shaft. Also the consequence of pressing the stopper can be a split gear housing, debris from which can damage the gears and cause them to jam. To fix the problem you will need to replace the armature, the stopper, the gear (big) pinion and the gear housing.
In some cases, the gearbox can become jammed with complete destruction of the bearing.
The saw stops while working
In most cases, the motor stops due to a completely worn out electric brushes. When the contact between the brush electrode and the collector blades is broken, the unit shuts down.
It is not uncommon to find brushes for this machine that have a shorted wire between the electrode and the plate. This wire is inside the spring and is preventing it from fully unwinding. When the electrode wears down to a certain length, it is no longer pressed against the collector because the short conductor prevents it from doing so. If you inspect the brush and find that it has not yet worn out and the spring does not release, then the part should be replaced.
The gearbox housing is very hot
If the gearbox heats up quickly, the bearings on the shaft where the gear and fittings are fixed fail to work. In this case, in addition to heating, you can replace the appearance of extraneous noises in this unit of the machine. The gearbox needs to be disassembled and the bearing needs to be replaced. Also the Geareducer will be hot if there is insufficient or no grease in the Geareducer.
Tip! Periodically disassemble the gearbox and check for grease. If necessary, grease liberally the interior of the assembly. For this purpose, you can use a special grease for angle grinder gears.
The saw does not pick up power
If you notice during use that the power output of the power tool is dropping, it is advisable to first check the mains voltage. Sometimes even a slight drop in pressure can have a negative effect on the power of the power tool.
Power loss may also occur if armature or gearbox bearings are worn. If so, you will hear extraneous noises that are unusual for this particular unit. According to their localization, you can determine where the problem bearing is located. in the gearbox or the engine. To replace the bearings it is necessary to disassemble the circular saw. How to do this was described above.
If you don’t hear any extraneous noises when the machine is running, but the engine still has a poor power output and rpm, take a look at the manifold. A circular spark (ring of fire) can usually be seen on it. This may be caused by a short circuit in the armature coil or a build up of dirt between the lamellae on the collector.
Open the motor housing and carefully inspect the collector (the place on which the brush electrodes slide). It consists of parallel strips (lamellae). There is a small gap between them. When this gap is clogged with conductive graphite dust from brush wear, there is a short circuit between the blades and a burning ring appears around them.
The problem will be solved by replacing worn brushes and cleaning the gaps between the slats with a toothbrush, absorbent cotton and alcohol, followed by polishing the plates with fine sandpaper.
In some cases power loss can be caused by a faulty start button. If testing with a tester confirmed its failure, then the part should be replaced with a new one, as it is not repairable.
Materials and tools
Scheme of a home-made workbench (side view).
The material, from which the accessories for the circular saw are made, can be selected from the scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (e.g. birch), which are at hand.
- a carpenter’s angle to measure and mark the workpieces;
- electric jigsaw or hand circular saw (for cutting workpieces);
- A drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);
- Screwdriver or electric screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.
The process of making fixtures for the circular saw consists of several steps:
- The sketch is developed and the detailing is thought out;
- The material is selected;
- The material is marked and cut;
- assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of the fixtures.
How a hand circular saw fixture works
The device under consideration is extremely simple and consists of only a few parts: the saw’s base, the guide rail, the thrust bar and the eccentric clamp ensuring a secure hold, even on the sawn material that has been cut with small deviations in width.
Schematic diagram of a handheld circular saw fixture.
This fixture is very easy to use. Begin by making a notation on the board.
Then a homemade fixture is installed on top, the bottom stop of which is pressed to the edge of the workpiece, and the right edge is aligned with the mark.
Then the plywood base is securely fixed by turning the eccentric clamping mechanism lever.
Now it remains to put the circular saw on the base and make the cut by pressing the edge of the sole against the guide side stop.
Cross-cutting a board using a manufactured fixture.
The result will be a perfectly even cut, exactly repeating the marking.
With this device is convenient to make a lot of cross-cuts, when you need to move the tool often to a new line for trimmer sawing, for example, when selecting grooves in the bars. It will be useful and if necessary to reduce the length of the workpiece by several millimeters, and will cope with this task no worse than a coping saw.
Making at home
The main thing is to maintain exact geometry. The basis can be:
A serious disadvantage of wooden and pressed boards is their sensitivity to moisture.
Option 1. The laminate blade.
- Using the ruler, cut two pieces of material of equal length.
- Mill one edge at a time.
- Fasten to the base (also made of laminate) with self-tapping screws.
- The groove width can be checked on an A4 sheet of paper about 0,11mm thick by inserting it into the device and tightening it.
- The guide rail is secured to the circular saw’s underside with a side support bracket. It is possible to drill a hole in the body if the warranty period has expired.
- The guide bar is extended as far as possible in front of the hand-held circular saw. The nose of the sole a few centimeters should overlap the guide. Using a laminate saw blade, saw off the edges of the rails to line up with the marking.
This will absorb the depth of cut (about 1.5 cm), but such a device is convenient and easy to make.
Variant 2. The guide rail is used as the base. Models with handles sliding along the groove are suitable.
- The handles are removed and replaced by spring-loaded, soft-clamping clamps. Models with removable tops are suitable. After removing the upper part, the clamping base is secured to the ruler with an adapter.
- Adapters are made of polypropylene on a milling machine. The result should be parts that resemble the letter “T” in the cut. They are inserted tightly into the groove for the handles.
- Holes are drilled in the “leg” of the adapters and screwed on with screw clamps.
- The rail is placed with the groove down on the sheet and firmly clamped from underneath. No parts on top that slow down the circular saw. Only the length of the rail limits the work.
Option 3. In order to get an accurate cut, it is necessary that the edge of the tool base, adjacent to the rail, be perfectly flat. Professional tools with molded soles have it, but inexpensive molded bases do not. That is why we offer the rail option. The tool can run along it without bumping into the guide rail. At the same time, the effort required for pushing the saw is considerably reduced. The rail can be made of an aluminum U-shaped profile. Two pieces with different cross sections are needed. The smaller profile is inserted into the larger profile without gap, but free movement must be ensured.
The guide rail can now be made by hand:
- A larger diameter rail is screwed to the plywood. The heads of the screws and self-tapping screws are chamfered so they can be hidden flush.
- On both sides of the rail, tighten the plywood strips 0 and also fasten them with self-tapping screws. Plywood can be replaced by chipboard.
Cut off the excess widths and the rail is ready.
Prepare the hand saw:
- The small profile is inserted into the rail, and the height of the “legs” is removed so that the profile is flush.
- The profile cut parallel to the circular saw’s disc is secured to the guide rail. Use a pair of M4 thumbscrews for this. If the circular saw’s platform is flat and of good quality, its edge can be adhered to.
- The hand saw is placed on the guide rail by inserting the profile into the guide rail. With the tool switched on, you cut off the excess width of the strip.
For a perfect cut, the rail edge is overlaid on the marking and the guide is attached by clamps. With the rail rail the saw moves smoothly and does not wobble, cuts accurately and feeds easily.
Support for cross-cut and angle cuts
The cross-cutting saw is also often used. It makes quick and precise 90° cuts in planks. Such a stop is also used for trimming boards. It is based on 10 mm thick plywood. Use glue or self-tapping screws to fasten the guide bar or rail at least 20 mm high to it. On the underside of the base, a stop, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar, is attached.
The surplus part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. As this distance differs for each manual circular saw model, the device is always made individually. It is usually fastened to the material to be worked on with clamps.
Advanced craftsmen make their fixing devices from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. Clamping is achieved by a wing nut on a screw. This clamping device makes it possible to quickly clamp a stop on lumber of different widths.
If on the other side of the guide install the same bar, but fixed at an angle of 45° to the first, and then cut off part of the base at 45° with the saw, you get a universal angle fence for cuts at both 45° and 90°. A more universal angular stop design is obtained if the block is rotatable. And the angle can be monitored on the conveyor, which is fixed at the top. It should be noted that making a protractor for a circular saw with your own hands is a more difficult task.
Operating principle of a hand circular saw
The tool is used for even sawing surfaces, longitudinally or crosswise. Arc sawing with a circular hand saw is impossible. The principle of operation of such a unit is simple:
- From motor shaft torque is transferred to cutting blade.
- The saw blade rotates on its axis with high speed and cuts the desired surface with ease.
Depending on the depth of cut, the tool is divided into several categories:
- Mini circular saws are able to cut materials with a thickness up to 46mm.
- Medium tool can cope with a surface up to 55 mm.
- Big machinery can cut workpieces up to 70 mm thick.
- Professional equipment is capable of sawing workpieces up to 140 mm thick.
Design and Specifications
Circular saws are designed for versatility, high productivity and safety. Operating mechanism is based on a general principle, which consists in transferring torque force from electric motor to the working body of circular saw. to the circular saw blade.
Circular saws design may vary depending on the type of work it performs. The typical design, taken as the basis for any modification of the saw, has several basic functional elements:
- platform. base;
- Electric motor that transmits rotational energy to the saw blade;
- saw blade;
- A body equipped with handles for operating the saw and holding it during work;
- protective cover (upper and lower), which protects the saw blade from wood shavings entering the working mechanism;
- attachment device for longitudinal stop;
- riving knife.
The circular saw design can also be supplemented with a depth gauge with a scale that makes it possible to estimate the depth of penetration of the saw blade into wood or other material.
For convenience, some saws have a movable mounting of the electric motor to the base, which allows you to adjust the angle with a locking screw and a scale.
cutting depths at 90° are 45-70 mm on average. A at 45° angle from 28 to 48 mm.
For sawing long and large-sized sheets of lumber, the guide rail for the circular saw is used.
The base of the bar is a strip of plywood 0.8-1 cm thick, its length must exceed the length of the sheet that will be cut. The rail can be either wooden (15-20 mm thick bar) or metal (metal n-trunk).
The rail is attached to the bar with glue or screws. On one side it is necessary to leave a place for fastening to the sheet of clamps, and on the other side to carry out sawing.
Edge stop is a fixture for sawing and parallel to the edge of the lumber. This stop is not easy to make with their own hands. Beginners, as well as craftsmen, I advise you first make a drawing, so as not to make a mistake in the manufacture.
Edge stop comes with a circular saw. Usually the butt from the set of small length, because of this cutting can be uneven on large materials.
To make a larger edge stop, you need to take a sheet of plywood from 1.5 centimeters thick as a base, and you can also use this sheet to make the edge strips.
Making the stop is done in the following steps:
- In the base of the plywood slots are made for the dowels.
- Dowels are attached to the retaining plate.
- One more groove is made between the slots for dowels, but this through groove is needed for fastening the stop strip itself.
- In the sheet that serves as a base, a cut is made for the circular saw’s saw blade.
Next, put on the sides of the bar-strips and special clamps for mounting the circular saw itself.
Principle of operation: set the stop on the material, then you need to move the stop bar in the grooves to the required distance for sawing and attach it through the through groove with a screw.
If desired, you can fix a piece of tape measure or ruler, this will facilitate the process of marking for sawing.
I recommend the following video, in which the author makes a homemade parallel stop for a circular saw:
If you have the right tools and accessories, there is no particular problem in how to make their own hands chocks for the circular saw. It is rather simple to make a self-made parallel, saddle fence, edge fence, cross-cutting and angle fence, as well as guide bar.
It is easier to modify the parallel stop from the factory one, which is included with the circular saw. To do this, a bar is attached to the parallel support strip with self-tapping screws.
Support for cross-cut and angle cuts is made from the base, to which is attached a base. a sheet of plywood 1 cm thick, in which a cut is made for the circular saw blade, as well as guide and thrust bars are installed.
The saddle fence is made of a board 2,5 cm thick and of the same width as the bar to be sawn. On the sides of the base, the sidewalls are made of pieces of plywood, each 10 millimeters thick. The stop is put on the beam and you can test it.
The guide rail is made from a base sheet of plywood up to 1 cm thick, to which a bar or a U-shaped profile is attached by means of glue or self-tapping screws.
The most complex design for self-made is the edge stop. First, slots are made for keys and one through slot between them for the thrust strip. Install the dowels on the thrust bar. In the base is made a cut under the circular saw blade, and then put the limiting side strips and clamps to fix the circular saw.
Write in your Комментарии и мнения владельцев which stops you think are better. the ones made by your own hands according to the required dimensions, or the factory ones?
Elements of the construction of a wood sawing machine created by our own hands
The creation of a stationary circular saw with their own hands has a number of features that must be taken into account.
Making a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands
The functions and operation of the device depend on the presence of various devices. One of them is considered a carriage. To construct it you need to do the following:
- Cut the plywood a little wider than the table;
- At the bottom, attach the guiding bars. the interval between them should coincide with the width of the table;
- fix the thrust pieces from above.
Notice! For the coating to be easily cleaned from sawing residues, it is recommended to cover it with varnish. This material is applied in several layers.
The manufacture of the carriage has a number of peculiarities
How to make a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands
The shaft is considered an important element of the circular saw. It is made from 45 grade steel rounds. diameter of the workpiece must be the same size as the saw blades. Most often 32 mm are used. Saw blades should be placed between flanges and clamped with a nut.
In order to use the saw for working with different materials, it is necessary to provide several operating modes. That’s why it is worth making several grooves on the shaft. This will make it possible to move the pulleys and change the speed.
What kind of discs should be used for the circular saw?
These elements have a major impact on productivity and quality of work. The blades can be designed for metal or wood. In the first case, the wheels should have small teeth. There are also universal models.
The discs can be solid or tungsten carbide. The first variety is made from a single piece of high-carbon steel. Such parts have an affordable price, but they need to be sharpened frequently. Carbide elements have a higher degree of wear resistance, but are much more expensive.
Parallel stop for the circular saw with their own hands
This is an important element for work with large workpieces. It is possible to make the support from different materials. plywood sheets or chipboard. On average, its dimensions are no more than 25 mm. You can fix the stop with boards or self-tapping screws.
To make the stop, you need to do the following:
- Take 3 strips of laminated chipboard and make a U-shaped profile;
- Make a guide channel out of 2 slats and bolt it to the end of the table;
- make an inverted T-shaped structure out of fiberboard. it must be screwed to the stop and placed in the channel.
The table for the circular saw with his own hands
To make a table circular saw, you need to do the following:
- Assemble the top of the table from sheets of Laminated chipboard. It resembles a box without a bottom. Fasten the fragments with bars. Their length should be greater than the height of the sheets.
- Turn the construction over and fasten the bars with additional lintels.
- Cut out the tabletop from the plywood sheet. In it you need to make a hole lengthwise with a jigsaw and place the saw blade there.
Note! To modernize the construction, instead of bars, you can use a metal angle. At the bottom of the construction it is worth making a shelf.
To get a reliable stationary design, you need to make a table On the working surface of the device must be present marking in the form of a grid. It helps to make the work more precise. Also the use of the safety guard must not be neglected. This element helps to protect the device during operation from mechanical effects.
Advantages and characteristics of the tool
The circular saw has its own advantages: it allows you to make an even cut, increases the speed of installation, provides convenience of work, saves electricity. If you replace the disk, you can also overcome the soft metal. To make a complete tool for work, you need to set it on a table and ensure access from all sides.
The following conditions must be observed:
- The table must be well anchored, so that its legs are sometimes filled with concrete or bolted down;
- Hand saw is fixed with iron clips to the table top to ensure the safety of the work;
- it must be earthed.
The big width of the table is an inconvenience at work. The optimum size should not exceed 60-70 cm, so that it is easy to hold the bar (not on outstretched arms). If the work surface is not static, the quality of the cut deteriorates, so it is necessary to fix. The wire can be fixed by staples in the floor, so that when you work accidentally do not stumble.
As an option, make an additional socket under the tabletop.
Beforehand, you need to prepare a drawing of the tabletop with the dimensions. This is almost a drawing, but simplified. On paper, you need to indicate the size of the gap for the disk. in width and length, where it should be in relation to the edges of the table. Immediately you will be able to imagine your work at such a device.
What are the options for making?
To make a circular saw with your own hands, you can use several ways. The most popular of them:
- Installing the purchased manual circular saw on the machine, which is made from a bar.
- Using as a drive the indispensable angle grinder with a steel disc for wood cutting.
- Turning a small wooden table and a motor “taken out” of a washing machine into a circular saw.
- Manufacturing of metal frame and installation of asynchronous motor (1-1,5 kW).
All these schemes have the right to life, but in practice they have different efficiency. If the circular machine is planned to dissolve boards with great thickness, the only possible unit is a circular saw, equipped with a powerful motor. the base must be made of steel.
an angle grinder will be “good” for cutting small wooden parts, but it is not the best option for a circular saw-machine, as its continuous operating time is limited. The engine from a washing machine is also not the most suitable way (or rather, the most unsuitable). the equipment turns out inconvenient, rather weak. Because of the low power, the master will need to “invent” a belt drive, as well as a system consisting of 2 shafts. As a result of all the efforts, the “output” he will get a model with poor cutting quality and low output.
“A circular saw from a circular saw
Among self-taught carpenters, it is believed that turning a manual circular saw into a machine tool is the easiest method of getting “three birds with one stone” at once, namely:
- high quality of cut, guaranteed by the high rotation speed of the saw;
- a shaft mounted in the collector motor on bearings, with honor to withstand radial loads;
- the ideal (cantilever) fastening of the blade, it enables relatively fast replacement of the cutting tool and there is no need to disassemble the circular saw.
The main advantage of making such a machine is the “native” motor, which guarantees maximum performance thanks to the ideal torque, optimal rpm. Other advantages of this solution:
- Relatively simple locking, allowing you to quickly remove the saw in case of great need.
- Powerful motor for long life because of its ability to withstand considerable loads.
- Normal thermal regime, which is guaranteed by forced ventilation of this hand tool.
- Possibility to get sufficient depth of cut using discs of big diameter. 60-75 mm. the value that gives a good chance to make high-quality blanks for various products made at home.
Stand and table top
Modification of a hand saw into a circular machine tool begins with making a table (or housing-box), from the back side of which the hand power tool will then be attached in such a way that a part of the cutting edge protrudes over the surface of the table top.
Choose the shape and size of the table, focusing on the size of future lumber. If you plan to do small billets, it is enough length 1500 mm, width. 600-700 mm. For making the base of the circular saw is suitable steel angle, having the width of the shelf equal to 25-30 mm. Above and below the construction is strengthened with struts made of the same angle or rebar. This option is optimal to give the frame of the machine maximum rigidity.
For the tabletop more often choose laminated chipboard or OSB, some masters stop at plywood, the thickness of this material. 15-20 mm, but you can take a thinner material, and then join together 2 sheets. The elements composing the worktop do not have to be of the same size and must be symmetrically arranged with respect to the base. The main thing is that the construction is not in danger of tipping over.
A notch is made in the tabletop, intended for extending the disk. The part of the table surface that will be in contact with the cutting tool is often covered with tinplate, metal sheet (aluminum, steel), textolite or plastic. This solution makes moving the lumber as easy as possible.
Modification of the saw control
These operations can be carried out only in one case: if the tool’s warranty period has expired. For ease of management of the circular saw, the contacts of the button and the button (lever) lead to an external electric switch, which is attached to the body in a convenient location, but there, where accidental pressing is completely excluded.
If the owner foresees the possibility of periodically removing the hand-held tool in the future, the contacts are fixed with electrical tape or clamp. In this case, the cord of the circular saw is plugged in the carrier, which is equipped with a push-button switch.
It is necessary for precise cutting of material of different width, that’s why this ruler (stop) must be able to move parallel to the cutting edge. Such element is also made of steel angle. In the table top make slots in which to fix the ends of the guide rail with screws.
A simpler variant is a pine board. Its width is 40 mm, and its length is 200 mm more than the table’s width. First, nuts are pressed into the lower part of the protruding edges, and L-shaped hooks are fixed with screws. After installing the board on the circular worktop, they are tightened with screws, thanks to them the hooks are lifted and the ruler is firmly fixed. It can just as easily be relocated anywhere.
Handmade with guide rail
Deep and “long” sawing is not often necessary for the home handyman, but the hand-held circular saw is a useful thing in its own right. Also the hand held circular saw with guide rail can cut wood crosswise and lengthwise as well as at any angle. And the cutting length of up to 1.5-2 m is quite enough for almost all finishing work and objectified creativity.
There are enough ratchets for manual circular saws on sale, and they cost not expensive, but there is no universal one. The construction principle of a brand-name guide rail is illustrated in the figure below.Saw headstock is manufactured with a longitudinal groove and guide bar is stamped with the corresponding groove and crossbar with a ridge (arrow). crest (arrow in fig.).
Using a handheld circular saw with a guide rail
It is convenient in work: it is necessary only to press the tool from above, and it will not go sideways and to a warp. And in the course of competition it is also convenient: we make our saws so that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.
Uncomfortable for craftsmen. you can not pick up a cheaper reissue. And a circular saw with a groove under the guide is disproportionately expensive compared to the same one, but with a smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: a guide rail with a groove made of laminated plywood, and a pair of bosses attached to the shoe (pos. 2b on the big fig. at the beginning). But to do this, first of all, you need a wood router table, which is necessary to make (not easy) or buy (at a high cost). Secondly, a small depth of cut decreases by 16-20 mm. Third, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe burns out the warranty. Fourth, if the saw is rental, then you can not finalize anything in it.
There is another way, but the tool will need to be held in 3 planes in the work: pressed down, from going sideways and from twisting. The plywood base of the rail can then be thinner, 6-8mm. Actually, the guide rail will be a straight bar fixed on it (or a piece of steel angle, etc.).п.), see. trail. figure.:
How to make a guide for a hand circular saw
“Setting up” the fixture is reduced to simply cutting off the excess from the base with the circular saw. Such guide is fastened to a board/sheet of material with screw clamps, just like a proprietary. When working on the workbench under the base put spacers slightly thicker than that of the material; the depth of cut from this corresponds to. decreases.
Table for handheld circular saw
The designs of homemade sawing tables for manual circular saws are numerous, but most of them are the fruit of creative research and/or self-expression. However, quite workable. However, the best options for those who have not to make and show, and work on it, can be seen clearly enough.
This is a tilting saw table for a hand-held circular saw (left in fig.). Tabletop. laminated plywood 12 mm and higher; the reigns with a height of 400 mm. furniture Laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. Make beams composite of boards is undesirable, the desired rigidity of the table will not work. Table top overhangs. 30-60 mm.
Construction of circular saw table for handheld circular saw
Circular saw table top construction is shown on the right in pic. Through grooves for saw disk exit (one groove is possible) are cut 6-10 mm wide. No particular precision is required, t.к. stop (see “A groove for the table” on page 54). below) is set on sawing on a saw disk. Tabletop dimensions can be freely changed (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Locking in working position (assembly C on fig.). M8 screws with wing nuts. Swivel knot (pos. B). a piece of pipe (can be plastic). its fastening to the table top. you can do it with countersunk head screws through the through holes.
Instead of hinges there are L-shaped pieces of bar D8; a slight play in the pipe does not affect the quality of the sawing. Each “loop” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. The long “G” sticks are threaded and secured in the tsarga by pairs of nuts with split washers. Fixing holes in the tower is better to mark on the spot, inserting the “loop” in the pipe and laying the table top on the base.
Make a solid sliding stop for the workpiece, as on the pose. 3b in large fig. at the beginning, not necessarily. It (stop) is better to make it from a piece of 40×40 steel angle by cutting the vertical flange as shown on the pic. (backside view).
Construction of a sliding stop made of steel angle for a homemade circular table
Fasten such stop to the table top with clamps, and it is necessary to level its parallelism to the saw disk in any case; it is done by means of locksmith’s square with markings in millimeters.
securing the tool
Mounting a hand-held circular saw in a sawing table in clamps
the circular saw is fastened to the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is out of warranty and the loss of depth of cut is not significant, 4 D8 holes are drilled in the saw shoe, and it is secured with through countersunk head screws. It is very desirable to put 1-2 mm rubber between the shoe and the table top (e.g., for the workpiece)., from the dash cam), the quality of the cut will improve noticeably due to the damping of vibrations from the tool. If it is necessary to minimize losses in depth of cut, a through cut-out is made in the table top for the tool shoe, the saw is fixed to the steel sheet of 3-6 mm thickness, and it is placed in the rectangular hole on the front (working) surface of the table top (see Pic. Fig. on the left). But the hole will have to be selected with a hand-held wood router, chisels will not exactly flush.
If the tool is rented or under warranty, the loss of cutting depth is inevitable, ie.к. it is not allowed to drill a hole in the saw shoe. For this case there is a variant of fastening of the saw in clamps (see ). trace. Fig.). For regular work in big volumes it is not suitable, but it can be done quickly and it will be possible to saw evenly for a day or two.
Manual circular saw mounting in the saw table with minimal loss of cutting depth
Note: about the options for making your own sawing tables based on manual circular saws see video; stationary in the workshop: