What is necessary to create
To get to work, it is necessary to prepare carefully.
Materials and tools
For a homemade table will require a solid metal or wooden base. Some craftsmen prefer to make tables out of aluminum, steel.
It is difficult to work with large volumes of wood with an ordinary circular saw, so it is better to set it on a table.
Important! The wood must be treated with a special agent, which has an antiseptic composition to prevent the processes of rotting.
Materials that will be required in the process of work:
- The base, the thickness of which is not less than 22 cm;
- timbers for reinforcing and making the support (you can use 5 pieces of trimmed boards);
- wooden dowels, 10 cm in size (12 pieces or more will be needed for the work);
- Joinery glue;
- metal fasteners (not less than 4 pieces, and the exact number depends on the size and length of the table);
- metal corners in the amount of 10 pieces;
- Self-tapping screws.
A modern jigsaw is equipped with a built-in safety feature, electronic speed controls, vibration and noise level dampers.
You also need a planer, a drill, and an electric screwdriver. Materials and tools must be prepared in advance and placed at the workplace.
The case will go much easier if you use an electric screwdriver.
Determining the design and construction
To choose the design, it is necessary to decide on the base material. For wooden table tops, leafy species of trees are suitable, which are resistant to the processes of rotting with proper antiseptic treatment. In the base make a special hole for the disk.
The table for the circular saw can be constructed by yourself, exactly adhering to a certain scheme.
For the wooden base use a sturdy base of four trestles, planks of 50×150 mm. It must be stable to ensure safety. Curved or bent sheets of metal are not suitable for work, because there is a high risk of injury.
Constructing the element with your own hands allows you to make the saw as suitable as possible for individual conditions.
It is possible to make a simple construction or equip it with a detachable riving knife. Additionally perform a disc protector, so that the work shavings do not fly on the person who will work at the table. To make the cut at an angle, you need to add parts to adjust the slope of the disk.
It is possible to adjust the product to the desired size, to distribute everything so that it is comfortable for you.
For circulation make a guide carriage of the table. It includes the following elements:
After choosing the design of the design, you need to make drawings of the table for a circular saw with your own hands.
The self-made model will be one-of-a-kind, which makes it unique.
Drawings and diagrams
Note! The blueprint is needed to prevent errors in the process of work.
First make a calculation of the dimensions to transfer them to the cardboard. A hole is made in it, which should fit the dimensions of the saw. Before creating the drawing and diagram, you need to buy cutting tools. No universal openings are foreseen in this design, because they can not provide maximum stability, safety and withstand heavy loads.
To make a table for a circular saw is quite within the power of every craftsman.
It is possible to leave a little extra space for tools or wooden workpieces. Suitable dimensions: 120×120 cm.
Example of a drawing of a table for a circular saw:
There will be no difficulties in the process if you carefully study the.
Scheme with a detailed description and dimensions:
The table is made taking into account that the hand-held tool will be installed and secured on the table, turning it into stationary equipment.
Assembling process for the circular saw table
First adjust the raft to the optimum size. Treat the wooden worktop and leave it to soak in the antiseptic solution for a day. The metal base is grinded along the edges, to avoid jagged edges.
Antiseptic for wood is a modern building material that protects wood of all species in structures.
the electric chainsaw
The process of assembling the table for the electric saw:
- First prepare the planks, which are trimmed using a planer. They are used to assemble a strong frame. Drill a 5-mm-diameter hole on each side of the bedrock.
- Also make holes of similar diameter in the tiers.
- Legs and crossbars are installed on the table top. To ensure fixation, it is recommended to take clamps. They will help fix the legs while the glue is drying. They are additionally fixed by metal corners, tighten with self-tapping screws.
- Attachment of the saw with M4 bolts. The process is carried out from the back side.
- To make a parallel stop two strips of plywood are sawn off. Their width should be similar to the width of the tabletop. Average size. 10 cm. Make sure the corners are rounded and ground.
The key feature of the created table must be convenience. Important! When installing the electric saw, it is necessary to fix the start button.
For this purpose, a wire is suitable, which is put through the hole in the handle and twisted in the right position.
Hand saw
For the hand saw you need a sheet of 20 mm plywood. The workpiece of the tabletop is made according to the chosen size. The marking is made with a pencil, the sawing is performed with an electric jigsaw. Finish by milling the edges. The workpiece must be sanded with sandpaper.
Take care about its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will have a negative effect on safety.
- The header is turned over, a hand saw marking is made on the underside. To the base you need to put a saw without a disk, make a marking of the dimensions of the sole.
- Using a hand router we make an indentation of 10 mm.
- Then the saw is tried on, and the marks are corrected.
- On the underside, a marking is made, which is intended for the stiffeners. For these, a piece of 50×100 mm board is prepared. Optimal location. up to 10 cm from the edge of the table.
- Longitudinal ribs are sawn and fastened to the table top with joinery glue. To fix the table legs use clamps. Using the same principle, the lateral ribbing is fixed from the boards.
- After the glue dries, drill holes in the stiffeners and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
- For the legs of the table use planks of size 50x100mm. The medium optimum height is up to 110 cm. Feet are attached to the outside of the stiffening ribs with sturdy bolts. To improve stability, you can use 50×50 mm bar ties.
Make sure the table top has the flattest possible surface. This reduces the risk of injuries at work. The hand-held circular saw is set into the finished slot on the underside, the sole is bolted in place. A toothed disc is inserted in the slot. Following the technology and following all the steps, you can make a home-made table with minimal expenses for your height.
Check the position of the table and its firmness at regular intervals. The construction must be stable, without loosening.
Circular saw guide is a necessary accessory that extends the capabilities of the tool
Straightness of cut is a critical issue when working with a hand-held circular saw. There are two concepts for ensuring a level saw blade:
securing the circular saw itself to the sawmill (workbench).
In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table and the workpiece moves along a guide. The quality of the cut is excellent, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material to be processed.
The workpiece is clamped in a fixed position and a guide rail is provided for the handheld circular saw.
With this design, any size of workpiece can be cut, as long as the saw blade fixture is firmly fixed. Manufacturers of hand tools have taken care of the users, and offer for sale a variety of ready-made devices.
Manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. They are usually equipped with an accurate ruler, some allow you to set the angle of the cutting blade. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and backlash during tool movement.
The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, has protection against ingress of sawing products, and does not need to be lubricated.
However, all these sets have a high cost, and many home craftsmen make a rail for a circular saw with their own hands.
Let’s consider variants, independently invented and created by homegrown “hobbyists”.
The simplest option. a stop for cutting
The fixture is extensively used for jigsaw sawing.
Works quite effectively, but it is of limited suitability for a manual circular saw. The guide bar is clamped to the workpiece. The fixture protrudes above and below the work surface.
As a result we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The clamp rests on the circular saw motor and must be cut in two steps. In this case the quality of the edge is impaired, a step may be formed.
Popular: Circular saw with their own hands. reliable, practical, cheap!
Any craftsman will tell you. a quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece. Fasteners in industrial designs are set outside the beam, so they do not obstruct the free passage of the tool.
Design requirements
Experienced craftsmen are ready to create a table for a circular saw with their own hands without any techniques or drawings. However, certain conditions must still be considered.
Among the inherent requirements are:
- rigidity (stability) of the system;
- flat, smooth plane of the table;
- safe securing of the saw;
- the presence of a guard against the cutting blade;
- free access to the start and stop buttons.
The presence of different functions depends on the working conditions and the wishes of the specialist. These include the ability to perform high quality longitudinal and crosscutting sawing.
Standard products, of which there are hundreds in shopping malls, are made of stainless steel. This is a fine material, but the following is the production of a saw table made of wood.
Advantages of homemade tires
An important advantage of working with such a device is the possibility to process workpieces of any size. You just need to remember about the reliable fixation of the crosscutting tool, because it provides a quality result and ensures safety.
You can purchase a pre-made guide bar in a store. This is the easiest and most expensive option. After all, the cost of a branded fixture is often almost comparable to the price of the circular saw itself. Therefore, it is better to make a guide for a circular saw with your own hands.
Homemade guide rail for manual circular saw Interskol, Makita, Bosch is functionally no worse than factory-made, but several times cheaper. It is easy to assemble at home. There are several options for making homemade guide bars, using different starting materials:
The process of making a guide bar using each of the options listed is discussed in detail below.
A simple guide rail for a home-built circular saw
Considering that most of the masters will make similar devices for other saws, in this case the interest is in the process of making and the design of the device (it is typical and widespread), but not in the dimensions given in the accompanying drawing.
Sequence of manufacturing
So, in the manufactured machine we have a tabletop made of ordinary plywood.
(Let you do not be confused by some difference in the size of the table top in the subsequent photo, I just replaced the plywood on a slightly larger, because I realized that the dimensions of this a bit too small)
Marking the rails
To get more or less good tool in the future you need to most accurately perform the marking and milling of the parallel slots, in which the runners of the carriage will be set. The first prerequisite here is that they are parallel to the plane of the saw blade. To do this, it is necessary to hammer out as accurately as possible on the surface of the tabletop. If there is no backlash and runout, it is enough to put a metal ruler tightly against the disk and hold the desired line.
Milling the grooves for the slides
Now parallel to this mowing line, two slots must be milled on either side of the saw blade.
As a rule, craftsmen insert n-shaped metal profiles into these slots to prevent wear of the slots in use and better slide of the skids.
To ensure a more or less stable position of the carriage, I roughly divided the table top into three equal parts and ran the desired two mowing line. Parallelism is the most important condition here. Use any router to mill around the stop. For this micro-machine I used an edge router.
Making the slats
The skids can be made from hardwood, such as maple. I had some oak wood on hand and I sawed the slats from it. Generally speaking, if an aluminum U-shaped profile is inserted into the slots, there will be much less wear on the skids. I did without the profile due to the fact that I plan to buy a Proxon machine and the resource of this homemade machine if it is used infrequently will be enough for me. For those who are making a self-made machine seriously and for a long time, keep this aspect in mind.
The slats should sit snugly in the grooves, but have a free slide and not dangle in them. Otherwise the slide will wobble. The slats should be flush with the surface of the table top for easy mounting of the carriage plate.
Mounting the carriage base to the rails
The next step is to install the base of the carriage onto the skids. For this machine, I use 7mm thick fiberboard. Since I use PVA to install the base, I first glued a masking tape to each edge of the skid to protect the surface from the excess of the squeezed out glue.
and on top of the slats place the base blank, securing it with clamps at the glue points
Once the adhesive is dry, remove the carriage, remove the adhesive tape and check that it slides in the slots
Marking the corners of the carriage
The carriage is set into the slots, the saw is engaged, and a cut is made in the front part of the base.
And here in relation to the mowing line of this kerf we make the required 45 degrees on both sides. This makes it possible to measure from the actual position of the saw blade in the kerf of the carriage.
Then we saw off the corners and get the result as close to the final result as possible
Correcting carriage angles
Set the stop at any desired distance from the saw blade and saw four roughing pieces
Putting them in a frame, we check the accuracy of connection on the bevel
In case of the slightest deviation from the right angle, trim the edge of the carriage on the right side, and again make a test shrinkage, thus bringing to the exact angle of 45 degrees.
The sides of the carriage can then be aligned flush with the base cut. From the back side we bring the edge of the carriage at right angles to the saw blade, thus providing the possibility of trimming parts at 90 degrees.
Bandsaw
This mechanism is one of the complicated types. Its construction requires the purchase of expensive materials, including a motor of necessary power, to prepare the system of machine movement and conduct a complete debugging and adjustment of the equipment. Making one at home can be extremely difficult and expensive.
The working principle of the band saw lies in its name. The cutting element is a long saw blade coiled into a ring. This ring is mounted on pulleys. To prevent the band from flying off when heated, car or motorcycle wheels are used as a pulley. They give the necessary elasticity.
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The main element of the construction, to which the primary attention should be paid, is the frame. It is what will hold the cutting elements, the drive, the motor. The frame also provides smooth running on the guide rails and adjustment of the cutting thickness. The first step in assembling the machine is to start with the frame.
Tip! This type of design is often used in small businesses. For a relatively low outlay, it is possible to get an effective tool that can cut a large number of logs longitudinally. But this tool cannot be called efficient for one-off use. too expensive.
Varieties
The following pusher varieties are used for convenience and various sawing operations:
- With extended length. They are used to handle small pieces of plywood and are a simple guide plate.
- With angle gauge. There is an angle scale mounted on the body of the angle guide for working in wood at a certain angle. Angle is selected relative to the plane of the saw blade horizontally.
- With screen. Shield is front-mounted, using a wider plate to feed wide logs.
- 3D. These devices allow you to feed the workpiece frontally, or by holding it at the side with a special feed buffer. In this case the guide itself is on the right side of the workpiece.
Making the circular cutter
Preparing the workpieces
It all starts with the fact that you need to saw blanks according to the specified dimensions.
- Flat longitudinal elements are made of laminated chipboard, not of solid pine, as the other parts.
- The two clamping plate blanks are made with “oblique” faces (63.5º, not 90º).
Thus, we have the following set of blanks.
Eccentric clamp
Proceed to make the eccentric clamp, which rigidly fixes the guide.
Two 80×80 mm blanks, glued together.
Press down with a clamp and let the glue dry. As a result we have here such a workpiece.
Use a 22 mm feather drill to drill a hole in the face for the handle.
In the center of the workpiece to make a blank (not through hole) 5 mm long.
It is better to do it by drilling, but you can also just nail it.
In the circular saw, used for work, uses a homemade movable carriage of Laminated chipboard (or as an option, you can make a “hastily” false table), which is not very sorry to deform or spoil. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.
Thus, we got an improvised axis of rotation of our part, called “eccentric” (although in this case, the stuffed hole is located strictly on the geometric center).
Then, putting the workpiece on the axle made of a nail, begin to grind corners and excess material.
As a result, we get a flat cylindrical billet, which should be trimmed with a belt or eccentric grinder.
Making the handle. it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
The transverse part of the guide
Let’s proceed to make the cross part of the rail. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following parts:
- The base of the crossbar;
- The upper transversal clamping strip (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping strip (oblique face);
- End (fixing) strip of the crossbar.
Upper cross clamping plate
The two clamping strips. the upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but an inclined (“oblique”) angle of 26.5º (63.5º to be exact). These angles we have already provided when sawing the workpieces.
The upper cross clamping plate is used to move the rail on the base and to further secure it by pressing it against the lower cross clamping plate. It is assembled from two parts.
And additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
Lower cross clamping plate
The lower cross clamping plate is permanently fixed to the base and serves to hold the rail against the upper cross clamping plate.
Like the top rail, it also consists of two blanks.
Both clamping plates are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of movement and remove all defects that impede the even sliding, besides, it is necessary to check the tightness of contact of inclined edges; there should be no gaps and slots.
With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the slide) will be maximized.
Assembly of the entire cross piece
The cross support strip is directly fastened to the circular table.
The transverse base is attached to this bar.
Assemble the whole structure with glue and self-tapping screws.
DIY Hand Push Block for Circular Saw. Safety Hand
Plane slide element
This element is made of Laminated chipboard because the surface is laminated and smoother. this reduces friction (improves sliding) as well as being denser and stronger. more durable.
We sawed the pieces to size during shaping, all that’s left is to trim the edges. This is done with the help of edging tape.
The technology of edging Chipboard is simple (it is even possible to glue it with an iron)!) and clear.
The base of the longitudinal part
The base consists of four longitudinal pieces and two vertical pieces to install the eccentric piece.
Exploring the parts, you get the following diagram.
Assemble the previously sawed workpieces with glue.
And additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to make a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Cross and longitudinal assembly.
To begin with, you need to mount the backing (longitudinal element) with the upper crossbar.
Here is where the VERY. It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, because it will determine the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade.
Then we put a longitudinal base on the substrate.
Installing the eccentric piece
The eccentric piece is put between the two vertical pieces on the longitudinal piece.
In the eccentric itself you need to put a metal tube (future bushing) with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
In addition to the bushings on the eccentric itself, it is necessary to make similar bushings on the vertical elements, although, as an option (worst), you can use enlarged washers.
In addition, a thrust bar should be installed for better clamping.
Installing the guide
Now it’s time to mount our whole construction on the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as well as everywhere else, we carry out on glue and self-tapping screws.
It remains only to check the correctness of the angles, and we consider the work is finished.
and we consider the work finished. the circular saw with the hands is ready.