Oil leakage through the crankshaft oil seal is a malfunction, which is desirable to be eliminated as soon as possible and regardless of whether the front or rear crankshaft oil seal has leaked. The fact is that in the case of leaks, the engine is subject to strong external pollution, there is a decrease in the level of engine oil, etc. The ingress of lubricant into the engine compartment and on individual elements leads to softening of rubber products, pollution of electrical equipment. On cars with a timing belt, the leakage of the front crankshaft seal is often accompanied by a quick failure of the timing belt. Problems with the belt often lead to serious consequences for the internal combustion engine, so replacing the front crankshaft seal is recommended at the first opportunity.
If the rear oil seal is flowing, engine oil from the engine’s lubrication system falls into the clutch. The clutch disc suffers, the clarity of the node is broken. Also, leaks in the rear oil seal can cause a number of other malfunctions. In view of the above, it is also advisable to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal as soon as possible. Next, we will examine why the crankshaft oil seal is flowing, how to determine the crankshaft oil seal leak, and how to replace the crankshaft oil seal with your own hands.
Why did the crankshaft oil seal drip and how to determine the leak location
To begin with, there are several main reasons for the crankshaft oil seal to leak. Since there are two oil seals (front and rear), the individual causes of oil leakage are slightly different. The rear oil seal is a massive product that is designed for a range of about 100 thousand km. and more. After this period, it is quite possible that the element gradually begins to flow. The front oil seal is smaller and malfunctions more often. There have been cases when the front crankshaft oil seal on some cars for no apparent reason already flowed through 30 thousand kilometers traveled.
For an accurate determination, it is enough to remove a little of the leaking oil, and then place a drop in water. Transmission gearbox oil will spread over the surface, while engine oil will retain its droplet shape. In the case of PSKV (front crankshaft oil seal), the leakage spot is also determined by visual inspection. It should be added that the leakage of the oil pump gasket in some cases can be mistaken for oil leakage through the gland, since these seals are located nearby. As a result, it may turn out that the oil does not flow at all from the oil seal.
- Back to the reasons. Central to the list is the mileage, which for PSKV is much less compared to the ZKSV. The fact is that the crankshaft rotates and is subject to vibrations during the operation of the internal combustion engine. These factors affect the inside of the SCR (crankshaft oil seal), causing wear. Normally, the stuffing box should fit snugly against the shaft, but the seal is broken as it wears.
- Another problem with SLE is the loss of rubber elasticity and other properties to create the required seal. Often leaks appear on cars that have stood idle for a long time without starting the engine in rooms without heating or on the street. In other words, if the machine is located in a climatic zone for which there are significant significant temperature changes in the seasons of the year (cold and heat), as well as a change in humidity, then after a long period of inactivity, the seals and other gaskets simply dry out and crack, harden. It is quite obvious that the required seal fit to the crankshaft will no longer be.
- Quite often, the oil seal leaks as a result of the low quality of manufacturing of this part. This is usually encountered by drivers who have oil flowing after replacing the crankshaft seal. As a rule, for the sake of economy, the most affordable spare parts of unknown manufacturers are installed, after which leaks appear immediately after installation or after a few tens of kilometers. run. Less often, the defect appears on new cars that have a poorly manufactured (defective) part.
- The tightness of the seals to the crankshaft is also greatly affected by the quality of the installation when replacing the element. If the crankshaft oil seal was not installed correctly, during installation its position was violated or the element was deformed during installation, then the cause of the oil leak is obvious. The crankshaft oil seal is installed so that the part clearly stands on the seat, after which the correct position is checked. often problems arise in inexperienced craftsmen when installing in garage conditions (with a hammer). Large service stations have special equipment for the installation of crankshaft oil seals or put an oil seal using a light hammer, with which the oil seal clogs into place with light tapping.
- Quite a logical reason for the leakage of lubricant through the SCR is the malfunction of the power unit itself (strong run-out of the crankshaft, problems with crankshaft, pressure increase of crankcase gases, etc.). In such conditions, the seals are quickly deformed or squeezed out of the seats, after which leaks of varying degrees of intensity appear.
Crankshaft oil seal is flowing: is it possible to ride
Along with the fact that the consumption of engine oil is naturally increasing and you have to add it, the operation of the vehicle with the current crankshaft oil seal can suddenly turn into serious trouble. As already mentioned, in addition to severe contamination of the engine with oil and dirt adhering to the grease, leakage can cause a complete failure of the engine or other components under the hood.
Video: Replacing the crankshaft oil seals on the trimmer
In the list of the most serious consequences, the timing belt breakage that occurs as a result of the current oil seal is rightly noted. On many motors, such a break leads to the bend of the valves, which turns into an expensive repair. If the rear oil seal is flowing, then the transmission suffers from the oil. Less often, there were cases when there were malfunctions in the electrical equipment or ECM sensors, where excess oily contaminants accumulated under the hood.
How to change the crankshaft oil seal: front and rear
The procedure for replacing the crankshaft oil seal as applied to the engine exhaust gas reserve requires a whole range of work. To do this, you need to have a garage with a pit or a lift, as well as a set of appropriate tools. Note that on cars with front and rear wheel drive replacement is not the same. For this reason, additional information on a specific make and model is recommended to be found in the repair and maintenance manual of a particular vehicle.
The basic operations include the following:
- first you need to remove the gearbox;
- then the clutch is removed;
- after that it is necessary to remove the leaking stuffing box;
- then the seal seat is cleaned;
- Now you can proceed with the installation of the new ZKSV;
- after assembly is carried out in the reverse order;
Replacing the crankshaft front oil seal is also a time-consuming procedure. The general list of works includes the following actions:
- disassemble the pulleys;
- Next, you will need to remove the timing belt guard;
- the next step is to remove the timing belt;
- Now you can dismantle the drive gear pulley;
- remove the front crankshaft oil seal, install a new part;
When replacing the PSKV or ZSKV pay special attention to the correct installation of a new seal. It should be borne in mind that externally this can be imperceptible, but the inner side has the property to bend. As a result, the new oil seal will flow again and the car will need to be disassembled for the next replacement. It is also necessary to remember that reinstalling even a practically unused oil seal is not recommended. The fact is that if there was a bend during the previous installation, then after the correct location of the stuffing box, deformation and, as a result, subsequent leaks of the sealing element to the seat on the crankshaft are still possible.
To summarize
As you can see, timely diagnosis and replacement of current oil seals will not only help maintain the engine in good condition and cleanliness, but also reduce the risks of possible consequences. If we compare the repair of the engine after the timing belt breaks and the cost of replacing the crankshaft seal, then the conclusion is obvious. It is much cheaper to replace the current oil seal than to overhaul or rebuild the engine.
Also, after repair and repair of leaks, one should not forget to wash the engine and engine compartment from dirt and oil. You can do it yourself, wash the engine with Karcher or use the steam engine wash service. The main thing is to wash the motor correctly to avoid undesirable consequences in the form of problems with electrical equipment, etc.
Finally, we add that the use of high-quality motor oil, lubricant filling by level and timely replacement, keeping the inside of the engine clean, the quick elimination of various internal combustion engine malfunctions (gas breakthrough into the crankcase, vibration, friction) and accurate diagnosis of malfunctions will allow you to get rid of premature front and crankshaft rear oil seal.
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Damage to the crankshaft oil seals leads to forcing grease through it. As a result, engine oil levels are reduced. Extruded grease may splatter.
Its hit on the pulley damper rubber leads to irreversible processes.
Rubber loses its structure and a pulley beats. Therefore, if sweating of the gland is detected, it is necessary to replace it as soon as possible.
Article and price for crankshaft oil seals
Part numbers and prices for crankshaft oil seals are shown in the table below.
| Name | Engine volume | vendor code | Price, rub |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rear crankshaft oil seal | 1,5 | MD372250 | 600-800 |
| Front crankshaft oil seal | 1,5 | MN195668 | 200-300 |
| Rear crankshaft oil seal | 1,6 | MD372250 | 600-800 |
| Front crankshaft oil seal | 1,6 | MN195668 | 200-300 |
| Rear crankshaft oil seal | 1.8 | 1052A118 | 600-800 |
| Front crankshaft oil seal | 1.8 | 1052A809 | 200-300 |
| Rear crankshaft oil seal | 2.0 | 1052A118 | 600-800 |
| Front crankshaft oil seal | 2.0 | 1052A809 | 200-300 |
Front Gland Replacement Process
The following tools will be required to replace the Mitsubishi lancer x front oil seal:
- socket heads “by 19” and “by 22”;
- pulley puller (optional);
- flat blade screwdriver.
Changing the front oil seal of the crankshaft Lancer 10 is necessary according to the instructions below. Replacement is carried out similarly on engines 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 liters.
- Reset the negative terminal from the battery.
- Jack the car and remove the right front wheel. If you have a lift, you can use it.
- Remove the motor splash guard.
- Remove the drive belt for auxiliary units.
- Release screw on pulley.
- Remove the pulley.
- To clear a surface. Otherwise, debris may get into the seat.
- Remove the oil seal by prying it with a screwdriver.
- Visually check the surface of the crankshaft. If necessary, sand bully and bumps.
- Lubricate the working lip of the new oil seal with engine oil.
- Using a suitable mandrel, install the oil seal in the seat. As a mandrel, you can use an old oil seal or the head of a screwdriver.
- Reinstall the pulley.
- Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Dismantling and installation of the rear crankshaft seal
In order to replace the rear oil seal, you will need to dismantle the gearbox. Therefore, this operation requires much more time and labor, as well as access to the bottom of the car. Replacement is carried out according to the instructions below:
- After dismantling the gearbox, it is necessary to fix the flywheel from turning, as shown in the image below.
- Release seven bolts with which the flywheel is mounted.
- Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal from the seat.
- Visually inspect the crankshaft. In case of damage, sand it with fine-grained sandpaper.
- Apply a smear to the edge of the new oil seal.
- Press gland into its seat.
- Following the bolt tightening sequence shown in the figure below, install the flywheel.