Major malfunctions
The chainsaw should be used according to the operating instructions, then it will last a long time and will NOT fail. All Possible malfunctions of the Stihl chainsaw are allowed to be identified and eliminated by ourselves. Consider the main problems that may arise in the components and design of the device, and how to repair the Stihl 180 chainsaw with your own hands.
Tags: Stihl chainsaw repair
DOES NOT start
If the chainsaw does not start, then the prerequisite may be a breakdown of the ignition and engine start unit. If, when measuring the gap between the module and the flywheel, no deviations are found, then the spark plug should be checked. It is pulled out of the shaft and the gap is measured. If fuel enters the combustion chamber, and there are breakdowns in the ignition system, then the carburetor is faulty.
Replacing the cord
Remove the side cover. Inspect the inside of the protective casing. If there is no damage, check the launch unit. Unscrew the starter bolt and remove the spring. Diagnose a pulley with a cord. If the rope is intact, then check each Delalle of the launch mechanism:
The cord is made of synthetic material and will gradually wear out. If it is damaged, cracked or torn, then it must be replaced.
Communities Do It Yourself Blog Repair of the STIHL 180 chainsaw photo report (Part 2)
Finally, I was going to write an ending about the repair of the Stihl 180 saw. Everything basic has already been written in Repair of the STIHL 180 chainsaw photo report (Part 1)
Now I’m adding a few things about the assembly like this.
The main thing is not to rush, double-check if you collect everything correctly. See YouTube on this topic. Better to see once. The saw has been working normally since the repair.
If you have any questions, write.
Pump design, lubrication systems and principle of operation
The oil pump drive consists of two parts, this is a plastic worm gear and a wire lever that transfers the force from the drum sprocket to the worm gear.
The lever is rigidly attached to the gears and they are supplied as one piece. The tip of the wire arm has a characteristic curvature for better grip on the drive sprocket drum. The drum has a special slot for installing the drive.
The Stihl 180 oil pump is completely made of metal and does not have a collapsible design. The pump casing has an oil inlet and a groove-channel through which oil from the oil line enters the pump directly. The mechanism is installed in the body of the Stihl 180 chainsaw.
At the moment of an increase in engine speed, the drum-sprocket begins to rotate the worm gear along the wire lever, and it, in turn, makes the plunger of the oil pump rotate, as a result of which the oil begins to pump through the oil channels to the tire of the chainsaw.
In the operation of the system, the oil pipe of the chainsaw is also directly involved, at the end of which there is an oil receiver. The oil receiver is additionally a filter. On the second side of the oil hose, a rubber expansion is made, with which the hose is installed into the body of the Stihl 180 chainsaw immediately behind the oil pump.
DOES NOT develop momentum
If the saw is Plasma Idle, the following may have happened:
- Clogged filter;
- Violation of the ignition system;
- The carburetor has deteriorated;
- Parts of the motor are deformed.
For self-repair, you need to follow these steps:
- Flush or replace the fuel hose.
- Clean the filter.
- Check the quality of gasoline and oil.
- Check the operation of the carburetor and spark plugs.
When the Stihl chainsaws are repaired, they will work correctly.
If the saw is NOT gaining momentum, then this could be caused by:
- Faulty engine;
- Cylinder wear;
- Failure of piston rings;
- Broken spark plug;
- Coil malfunction;
- Unbalance of carburetor screws.
If, after testing, defects are NOT found, then check the carburetor.
Floods a candle
If you notice that you are pouring a candle on the Stihl Chainsaw, then a malfunction may have occurred in the fuel system. The engine must run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. If the mixture is lean, then the power decreases, the cylinder overheats and the saw systems wear out. A wet plug on a Stihl chainsaw is due to a disproportion in the fuel mixture. Lack of air in the mixture prevents proper combustion of the emulsion.
Oil plugging also causes the use of oil for 4-stroke engines and piston wear. If such a malfunction occurs, you need to remove the gas tank cap and adjust the fuel supply. The air intake should be repaired. The clogged filter must be blown out with air, or it is better to replace it. How you can clean the filters is described in the instruction manual for the chainsaw.
It will be possible to determine the quality of the mixture using a spark plug insulator. If a brown color appears on it, this means that the quality of the mixture is normal. White color or Smoke indicates a poor or over-enriched composition of the mixture.
The candle is the cause of oiling. Interruptions in spark formation are observed when the gap is incorrectly set. In the instructions for the repair and operation of the device, the distance between the contacts of the spark plug is given. If you do not have such data, then you can set 0.7-1 mm.
If the gap is less, then the efficiency of ignition of the mixture decreases, if it is larger, then interruptions in the formation of a spark occur. To eliminate the over-enrichment of the mixture, the motor is purged. In this case, you need to remove the candle and return the crankshaft several times with a manual starter.
Comments 40
Yesterday, for some reason, the crankshaft bearings jammed when starting up. Disassembled the dirt there and washed all the cases oiled. Everything began to spin. Assembled in reverse order. Saw Does not start a spark, there is a benz. There is a current equal to NO. Collected on a transparent silicone sealant. Collected and after a while began to try to start. Is silent. And under the candle it poured too zero. Maybe it won’t start because of bad germtization? Dusty new was working 5 times in total.
Dirt in the bearing means dirt in the gasoline! I do not even know, try another sealant. But this is probably not the reason!
In the first part in the photo you can see a bottle with 80% oil that they are burned because of this and are badass
How did you determine that it was burnt?
Color capacity print quality. Well fired right away.
Well you are an “expert”!
1) In the photo, the label is not really visible, but you saw the UAH print and identified the fake, or rather DIRECTLY saw)
2) The color of the bottle can be distorted by the camera in any way, depending on the white balance settings and the sensitivity of the camera itself.
3) The oil is not bought in the market, but in the OFFICIAL DEALER of Stihl together with the saw!
Here even chainsaws will be repaired))). And they say the site is automobile. I also have Stihl, 290 MS, and the analysis of the current oil hose changed
Good chainsaw. It has been working for me since 2008 and have no problems. I saw about 12 cubes a year for heating the house.
As it looks more or less, she’s just a mini-bikini #128521;
I described everything perfectly, read both parts! Such a Stihl himself went through, only a piston assembly stuck in a Chinese one, it has been working for the second year, exactly h, since he works on cutting firewood for barbecue in a cafe, the flight is normal, so sometimes Chinese spare parts come across good quality #128578;
Perhaps China is good too. They did not risk it)
I described everything perfectly, read both parts! Such a Stihl himself went through, only a piston assembly stuck in a Chinese one, it has been working for the second year, exactly h, since he works on cutting firewood for barbecue in a cafe, the flight is normal, so sometimes Chinese spare parts come across good quality #128578;
Hello! Can you specify which ones? Also need.
I bought it from my neighbors with a broken piston. I want to restore. He says the wedge was given to Stihl. As I understand it, because of his stupidity, he wanted to push the piston through the candle hole. But not destiny. Seizure on the piston.
I don’t remember the name of prshneva, it was a long time ago, I took it from us on the market, chose the most qualitatively made one, saw to saw to this day
What needs to be changed besides the piston group?
And the piston that I took had bearings and oil seals in the kit, they did not change the pads, the relatives were Long for all the living, replaced the prshnyu and oil seals in the end, the knee was also alive, for the money it turned out that something about 800r in a circle, including a sealant, I advise before disassemble the subject by purchasing, and write a list of what needs to be replaced))
I agree. Thanks. Just another question. How to remove the cooling drum and clutch mechanism? There crankshaft threads on both sides are right?
And the piston that I took had bearings and oil seals in the kit, they did not change the pads, the relatives were Long for all the living, replaced the prshnyu and oil seals in the end, the knee was also alive, for the money it turned out that something about 800r in a circle, including a sealant, I advise before disassemble the subject by purchasing, and write a list of what needs to be replaced))
1 for “disassemble and burn” Burn, fuck! Write down, not remember)))
DO NOT tell me where the idle speed adjustment is. The saw Does not start, it starts only when I hold the gas, I release the gas stalls.
The idle speed adjustment is located on the right side of the saw (position how to cut) There is a round hole in the handle (top). Using the screwdriver from the kit, try to turn it clockwise. Another point, let’s disassemble the carburetor, clean it, I had the same problem. Pay attention to the felt filter. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply., At the weekend I will try to clean and adjust.
How to remove the cooling drum and clutch mechanism? There crankshaft threads on both sides are right?
The piston does not bring to TDC by about a third, in the hole of the candle We fill a cord like a starter (we leave the tail out) and presses the piston at TDC. And gently turn away.
Left-hand thread! Thanks for the advice!
Good report !, very competently done! If you allow a couple of comments, firstly, you don’t need to smear the hose with a sealant, you need to blow it out and wipe it, I don’t know who said that this is a sore spot 180 calm (the sore spot is a compensator for the gas tank and oil tanks, the pipette is so green) and with such scuffs, you need to carefully watch the thickness piston skirts, if, after grinding with sandpaper, it is thin, then it does not go there for a long time on the edge with a large production, a small mark appears on it and look at the thickness) and most importantly, a THERMAL seizure appears ONLY FROM A LOW-QUALITY GASOLINE AND NOT FROM UNHEATING! THESE saws DO NOT WARM UP THEY ARE SO DESIGNED THAT IT IS POSSIBLE TO WORK IMMEDIATELY, but after repairing the engine, they need to run in a break-in mode, that is, they need to work in normal mode but for a short time, she does not need KAMAZ to get dusty firewood right away))))
I repaired the same one with thermal seizure from overheating by a curved user, as it turned out full throttle at a high load. min revolutions and min airflow, Bosch replaced the rings, re-adjusting the grooves for them on the piston, and 1mm teflon foil seizure at the very bottom of the cylinder was cut.
It should only work at full throttle! And the whole trouble with scuffing is when the old mixture is either slightly diluted with fresh or NOT at all diluted and loaded as much as possible, then the effect of working on pure gasoline is obtained from this aluminum piston and the scuffing begins
I agree, but he did not allow her to unwind, especially in the heat, he might not say anything in the mixture, as usual in the service: what did they do with the product. nothing, you can figure it out, and there is a kick.
I completely agree constantly with such situations))) they did everything according to the instructions))))
Good report !, very competently done! If you allow a couple of comments, firstly, you don’t need to smear the hose with a sealant, you need to blow it out and wipe it, I don’t know who said that this is a sore spot 180 calm (the sore spot is a compensator for the gas tank and oil tanks, the pipette is so green) and with such scuffs, you need to carefully watch the thickness piston skirts, if, after grinding with sandpaper, it is thin, then it does not go there for a long time on the edge with a large production, a small mark appears on it and look at the thickness) and most importantly, a THERMAL seizure appears ONLY FROM A LOW-QUALITY GASOLINE AND NOT FROM UNHEATING! THESE saws DO NOT WARM UP THEY ARE SO DESIGNED THAT IT IS POSSIBLE TO WORK IMMEDIATELY, but after repairing the engine, they need to run in a break-in mode, that is, they need to work in normal mode but for a short time, she does not need KAMAZ to get dusty firewood right away))))
I agree. I carried out the running-in on small jobs (branch boards). Didn’t load much. Regarding warming up, the question is still controversial. Any engine requires warming up, at least 30-60 seconds. On my Echo trimmer with a 2-stroke engine, the instructions are directly prescribed to warm up a little before work.
How to set the ignition
It is necessary to set the ignition on the chainsaw. The ignition is adjusted as follows:
- Unscrew the candle and evaluate its appearance;
- Specify the distance between the magnets and the coil (up to 0.2 mm);
- Check Spark.
How to disassemble, repair and assemble a Stihl chainsaw
To repair the device, you must first disassemble it. You need to remove the side cover, saw chain and bar. Then he will clean the tool, blow it out with a compressor and clean all the components with a brush. Then remove the handle. To do this, remove the plugs from the shock absorbers with a screwdriver. After that, remove the shock absorbers and the handle.
Then the starter is removed. Remove the housing cover and unscrew the starter screws. Remove the item. Then they remove the flywheel by unscrewing the nut that holds it, unscrew the flywheel nut. Twisting to the left. Remove the flywheel. Then dismantle the clutch, oil pump drive and carburetor.
After that, the motor is removed and disassembled. It is held in place by 4 screws on the bottom of the saw. You need to unscrew them and remove the motor. Then the engine itself is disassembled. Unscrew the crankcase screws, remove it. Then dismantle the crankshaft, oil seals, bearings and piston rings. At the end of disassembly, repair and troubleshooting are performed.
After repair, the tool will need to be reassembled. For this, the piston is installed on the connecting rod. The arrow on it should look along the chain, and to the left of the piston there will be the side of the crankshaft in which you want to mount the flywheel. They put the piston in the cylinder. Install the bearings, seals and circlip into the cylinder. After that, degrease the place of fixing the crankcase and install it in its place. When assembling, follow the reverse sequence of dismantling.
Carburetor repair and adjustment
The carburetor is adjusted to warm up the engine. If the engine fails to tune, the carburetor stuck may be a prerequisite for excess gasoline in the mixture. To remove the part, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts, disconnect the ignition and the rod from the engine control lever. Then the lever is removed. Then you can remove the filter and carburetor.
The muffler is secured with two nuts. You need to untwist them and pull the muffler towards you. Then the screws of the coil are unscrewed and dismantled. In Stihl saws, the carburetor has 1 idle adjustment screw. If the idle speed is violated, then the carburetor needs repair. This is a complex process and difficult to do on your own. Contact the Repair Shop.
How to remove and replace an asterisk
Replacing the sprocket on a chainsaw is needed in cases when:
- Seizes the chain movement;
- The drive sprocket is worn out.
To replace, you need to remove the chain saw sprocket. The sprocket teeth must NOT deviate from the required dimensions, otherwise the saw operation will be accompanied by vibration, which will lead to damage to the crankshaft and bearings. The life of the sprocket is 2 times that of the chain. Use 2-3 chains to abrade their cutting surface. After that, change the asterisk. It is located behind the clutch. Remove the clutch cover.
Remove the bar, chain, and clutch. But first you need to fix the crankshaft. Then the stripper is placed in the hole of the sleeve and turned clockwise. Remove the clutch. There is an asterisk behind it. Now it is being dismantled. If it is defective, it is replaced.
Removing the flywheel
The flywheel of the Stihl 180 chainsaw is twisted with great effort, therefore, to remove it, you will need a head with a metal knob. The nut holding the flywheel is unscrewed by the head by 13.
To block the crankshaft from turning, you need to Unscrew the spark plug and install the piston stopper through the spark plug hole, if it is not there, you can use the old starter cord, with knots imposed on it and immersed in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
After the piston is locked in the cylinder, you can unscrew the flywheel nut. The thread in the nuts is common, so you need to turn it to the left. I loosened the nut, it is not necessary to remove it to the end, it is enough to Unscrew it until its upper edge is equal to the tip of the shaft, after which a soft metal drift is installed on the nut and a sharp blow is made on it. Thus, the flywheel from a sharp impact jumps off the shaft and can be easily removed without the help of additional tools.
Removing and disassembling the engine
The engine is held in place by 4 screws installed on the bottom of the Stihl 180 chainsaw. To remove, unscrew them, then carefully remove the engine from the seat and the rubber pipe of the carburetor.
To disassemble the engine, 4 crankcase screws are unscrewed, and it is removed, then you can remove the crankshaft assembly with oil seals, bearings and piston rings.
Removing bearings and seals usually does not require additional tools, but if the bearings were pressed onto the shaft with force, then a special puller will be needed for dismantling.
To remove the piston from the connecting rod, you will need to remove the retaining ring from the seat using a thin screwdriver, then the piston pin is squeezed out from the opposite side, after which the piston is retracted to the side.
See also Dismantling the STIHL MS180 chainsaw
Good evening, I have such a problem. Saw Stihl ms180c, did not work much, saw trees last time, there were interruptions in the operation of the engine. Then it stalled. What he didn’t do, 0, disassembled, blew, cleaned, the carburetor, assembled, started up with a half-turn, worked fine, gained momentum, stalled, and again 0, replaced the plug. Ignition coil, 0, disassembled carburet, clean, blew, assembled, started. And I worked again, the gasoline ran out, I just poured it, poured gasoline, everything is 0 again, the candle is wet, there is a spark, tell me. How to solve this problem, described meticulously, to make it clearer, can anyone come across this problem.
Hello, and when you turned out the candle, did you try it? Is there a spark? It happens that there is a spark and everything seems to be in order, but the saw still Does not start. I really had the same situation on another brand. Turned out to compress comments. Changed the oil seals and seems to be still (for the second year) working. There is still a problem. filters. Changed them? In general, a bunch, each time different answers, so that you DO NOT bother for a long time, try the service, if it is too expensive, then.
Carburetor, muffler and ignition coil
To remove the carburetor, you must have a head 8 and an extension, with which it is convenient to unscrew the nuts securing the carburetor and air filter. Before dismantling the carburetor, it is necessary to disconnect the ignition wire and the choke rod from the engine control lever and remove the lever, only after that the air filter and carburetor are removed.
The Stihl 180 muffler is fastened with two nuts, by unscrewing which you need to pull it towards you, it can be easily removed.
The coil is mounted on two screws, to remove you just need to unscrew them.
Expert advice
When repairing a carburetor, you must remember that this is a complex assembly, consisting of rings and many parts. This means that cleaning and repairs must be carried out with utmost care. If the tool stalls or does not start, the spark plugs must be checked in addition to the carburetor. If they are faulty, they are rolled up and dried.
Additional fuel can be drained through a special opening. Malfunctions of the Calm 180 chainsaw and their elimination are partially described in the instructions. After reading the article, you can understand that the candles must be dried for at least half an hour, after which the candle can be installed in place, started the device.