The device and principle of operation of the penetrator
Almost no repair is complete without laying a new wiring in the apartment or replacing the old. It is also often necessary to add one or more outlets in order to facilitate the connection of household appliances or equipment and thereby eliminate the need for the use of wires with branches. The wires are best hidden in the wall, and for this you can carry the walls for wiring with your own hands, without seeking the expensive help of construction brigades and electricians of private traders. The main thing is to take into account all the nuances for organizing the wiring, and properly carry out a stroke.
Do not immediately grab the chisel and hammer. You should first depict a wiring plan on paper and think through the location of all points of connection and wiring outputs, such as sockets, switches and conclusions for lighting. You should also take into account the material of the walls and methods. The basic rules, according to which the distribution of wires in the walls is described in regulatory documents SNiP 3.05.06-85. Do not neglect them, it is better not to be too lazy and familiarize yourself with how to know how to properly post the walls for wiring. The main points are the following points:
- Schooling for wiring should be carried out in parallel to the main constructives of the building, that is, only vertically or horizontally. The slope of the stroke is allowed only in the case of laying parallel to inclined walls, for example, on the attic.
- Horizontal stroke should be carried out at a distance of not more than 150 mm from the floor slabs.
- The vertical strobe (groove) should stand from door, window openings and angles of at least 100 mm, and from gas pipes. at least 400 mm.
- The width and depth of the curtain should not exceed 25 mm. The length of one strob should not exceed three meters.
- It is advisable to minimize the rotation of the strobes on the way from the camshaft to the switch or socket. It is best if you limit yourself to one angle of transition from the horizontal to the vertical excluding turns in the horizontal plane in the joints of the walls.
- You can not make horizontal furrows in supporting structures. This applies to all the walls of the panel house, because they are all carrying, with the exception of small partitions.
According to these rules, a layout is being laid out. After that, you can directly carry the tables of the walls.
“Is it possible to stroke the supporting walls?»Strokes of walls are regulated by redevelopment rules, which can vary slightly for each region. However, according to generally accepted norms, such actions are unacceptable in all types of typical multi.storey buildings.
Tools and methods
There are several ways of stroke that differ depending on the tool used:
- hammer and chisel. Long, inconvenient, strobe uneven. But cheap;
- a pedorater or shock drill. Clean enough and fast. The strobe is not very flat;
- corner grinder. The strobe is flat, but a huge amount of dust is produced, which is difficult to catch even with the help of an industrial vacuum cleaner;
- Strooborosis. Using a specialized tool, you can get a perfectly flat bar with a given depth and width. However, everything spoils the price of the tool itself.
With any option, the procedure is approximately the same.
Requirements and norms for carrying out a bar
Before choosing a tool and accepted for work, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of wiring electricians in an apartment or private house, taking into account construction standards (SNiP 3 regulates the requirements.05.06-85).
The scheme needs to indicate the location of all lighting devices, distribution boxes, sockets, switches and a route along which the connecting wires will be held.
Be sure to save the wiring scheme for the future, if necessary, drive a nail into the wall not to guess whether you will get into the wire or not
- The depth of the furrows should not exceed 2-3 cm, and the width is 3 cm.
- The maximum length of one channel from the camshaft to the switch or device is 3 m.
- The wires and, accordingly, the strokes for them can only be carried out vertically and horizontally, accepting the level of parallelism with the main structures of the building. But reduce the distance “directly” with the help of oblique and even more wavy lines. you can’t. An exception to this rule can only be wiring in the attic room. in this case, the grooves are pierced parallel to the lines of the walls of the walls.
- The minimum indentation from the floor slabs to the horizontal strob should be at least 15 cm, and from the heat and gas traffic- at least 40 cm.
- The vertical wiring should pass at a distance of 10 cm or more from door and window openings.
- It is important to plan the wiring so that the wires have as few bends as possible on the way from the distribution boxes to lighting devices or sockets. Ideally, you need to run the way straight from the box or use no more than one transition at right angles.
- On the load.bearing walls, floor slabs and corners cannot be stroked. this can weaken the strength of the structures of the entire building and lead to an accident.
The restrictions specified in PUE will clearly demonstrate the following photo selection:
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In the Decree of the Government #508, in its paragraphs 10.3 and 10.11 states that the device for the hidden laying of the wiring is allowed only in interior partitions
In the walls of panel and monolithic concrete houses, the depth of the fine should not exceed 20 mm. If the requirements are not observed, it is possible to damage the reinforcement and significantly reduce the bearing capacity of the wall. In brick and concrete blocks it is allowed to last up to 30 mm
In accordance with the requirements of the PUE, it is forbidden to lay tracks of hidden wiring with a slope. They must be strictly horizontal and vertical so as not to create prerequisites for damage and current damage during subsequent work on the arrangement and repair of the premises
Ideally, it is recommended to lay strokes in a layer of plaster or in boxes attached to the wall so as not to reduce the bearing capacity of walls of any category
If you perform a drawing and subsequent stroke in compliance with these rules, hidden wiring will work without problems and failures.
Choose a tool for stroke walls
Making in.depth grooves is easiest and fastest with the help of special electrical equipment. But even if at your disposal only a minimum set of home tools, do not rush to give up the intention to do your own hands with your own hands.
We will tell in detail how you can post the walls for wiring, consider options from “grandfathers” methods to professional methods.
What is suitable from the arsenal of a home master
The easiest toolkit, which is almost certainly found in the reserves of any home master. chisel (chisel) and hammer. The chisel is installed with a sharp edge to the drawn marking, we hit with a hammer to get deeper into the wall deeper.
even lines are obtained if you use a hacksaw additionally. it is made of tapes along the length of the grooves, which slightly facilitates and accelerates the process.
But in any case, it will be the most time.consuming and long.term option for manufacturing a stroke for wiring.
On large areas, such a tool is unprofitable: the depth and quality of the grooves made by the chisel leave much to be desired, and it will take unjustifiably time and effort for their manufacture
This method is good because it does not require expensive equipment and special skills to work with it. Therefore, ON Do is still successfully used to arrange short grooves on the walls of supple material.
For example, if there is a need to extend the existing route to connect one or more new devices, when transferring a socket, etc.D.
But if the room has concrete or brick walls, it is better to refuse the grooves with a hammer and a chisel, and use more effective methods of stripping.
Making a stroke for a wiring device according to a hidden scheme is easier and fastest as a gateway. It is equipped with two diamond cutters, the gap between which can be chosen in accordance with the task
Most often in the device of electrical wiring of apartments or country houses, peorators and shock drills are used. They will not form such a clear line as a stroboresis, but are quite suitable for this work
To perform different stroke operations, suitable nozzles are selected: drilling and stroberes with tips destroying the material, shoulder blades with exciting grades
In order to arrange the excavation under the installation of sockets, the drill is equipped with a diamond crown. She quickly, clearly and evenly breaks the hole of the required size with even edges. This operation is not available
Simple power tool to help manual work
An ordinary electric drill will help to improve the speed and effectiveness of manual tabletings. But problems may arise with concrete walls. the drill will “burn”, so we consider several important nuances and the principle of work performing work.
Although the drill significantly accelerates the process of strokes of the walls, but you can not count on this equipment on this equipment with this equipment
- Draw markings on wall surfaces.
- Pick up a winning drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm for a drill.
- Make a “point route”-drill along the lines of the hole of the desired depth with an interval of about 0.5-1 cm. At the same time, you need to keep the tool perpendicular to the wall so that the drill does not go on the bend and does not break. If you need a wide groove. make holes in a checkerboard pattern.
- When working with concrete or brick, you need to turn on the drill at low speeds and periodically stop to cool the drill in cold water (just make sure that the liquid does not penetrate the device).
- Then, with the help of a hammer and a chisel, it remains to knock out the intervals.
Although the technology is quite primitive, it justifies itself when conducting a bar for small and medium distances. For example, when wiring wires in one room, a tandem of a drill and chis will allow you to significantly save on the services of builders or the purchase of expensive equipment.
But for a thorough redevelopment of wiring in the entire building or a multi-room apartment, it is better to acquire a specialized tool or invite a master-electrics.
Professional equipment for quick installation
Make strokes by spending a minimum of effort, you can use a special stroborer. Two discs with diamond spraying can be planted at once on this tool, so that neat and perfectly even grooves in one pass are obtained on any surface.
At the same time, the circles themselves will be covered with a casing, on which there is a discharge for connecting a vacuum cleaner in order to prevent the spread of dust throughout the apartment.
Stroborese makes even and the same recesses, after which it remains only to knock out the inside of the groove with a shock or a pedorator
In addition, the design of the stroborester allows you to independently change the distance between the circles and set the desired width and the depth of the groove.
In a word, this is a great solution with the only drawback. the price of the equipment is quite high, so it will be cheaper to invite a hired master than to buy a barborer for a one.time repair.
In the device for hidden wiring, an angular grinder is often used. It is suitable for cutting the furrows in all types of walls
If a grinding machine is provided with a home.made device that allows you to accurately observe the distance, the channel selected in the wall will be even, as when using a stroborer
The lack of strokes of the corner grinder is the need to finalize the channel, which requires an elementary chisel and a hammer
After cutting the guides of the corner grinder, the material separated from the array is selected from the future strobe. The process is laborious, and compliance with the depth of the channel in this case is quite problematic
Quickly perform the tablet of walls for wiring will help:
- Shock drill or penetrator with interchangeable nozzles. Both devices work according to the same principle: at first with a short drill, holes are drilled with an interval of 1-1.5 cm. Then the nozzle changes to the pointed “Doloto” or “Shovel”, is installed at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall, the device switches to the “without drilling” mode and cleans the groove from the remaining material. This method is good with its speed, but not by quality. the groove still turns out to be inaccurate, with torn edges, cracks and chips.
- Corner grinder (angular grinder)-if you equip the device with a seduced diamond or turbo-almas disk, it will perfectly cope with the implementation of even strobe. True, work with corner grinding is quite dusty and demanding on accuracy. according to the marking, you need to cut 2 parallel lines in 2 passes, withstanding the gap to the width of the future channel. Then, inside the groove, the material is knocked out by a as a peorater with a “shoulder blade” nozzle or other percussion tool.
Than and how to make strokes in the walls
You can make strokes in the walls using various tools and methods, each option differs in cost, speed and complexity of the work, the number of dust that appears, complexity.
There is a hand tool (hammer and chisel) in every house, this is the cheapest way, but also the slowest, laborious. A pedulator, a drill, an angular grinder accelerate the process, but increase the level of danger, require attentiveness and skills.
The best option is to use a special tool designed to create a strobe. But the stroboresis is quite expensive, for a one.time work, this option will result in additional costs. But the strobes will be even, the work will pass quickly and easily, without dust.
Corner grinder angular grind
First, the places of passage are marked, then they start work.
- Attach a special disk to the tool, which is designed specifically for concrete cutting.
- Make two drinks in parallel to the other at a distance of about 5 millimeters.
- Hollow the groove between the sawdust of the penetrator.
It is undesirable to expand the groove of the corner grinder, since often the wheels do not withstand such a load and burst that it leads to damage to the consumer and danger to the master.
The stroke of the as a pea creates a lot of dispersed dust, which spreads everywhere, can spoil the furniture and things. The master needs to use protective equipment.
First, on the marked section of the wall, holes with a diameter of 8 millimeters with a step of 1 centimeter are. Then they put on a special nozzle on the tool, put the device into a blower mode, break through the stroke between the openings made earlier.
A hammer and a chisel
The work is carried out difficult and dusty, but using simple tools that can be found in any house. That is, you don’t need to buy anything and spend.
- Two two grooves with a depth of 2 centimeters along the marked lines along the marked lines in a area of 20-50 centimeters. The chisel must be placed perpendicular to the surface of the wall, the monolith is just punching with an effort.
- Knock out the grooves between the grooves, setting it at an angle woke up and simply chopping down the material in pieces.
- Continue in the same way to make strings in all markings.
You can strive with a drill if you take care in advance about three nozzles. a shoulder blade and two storms of different lengths. First drill holes to a depth of 2.5 centimeters along the intended line with a step of 1-1.5 centimeters. Then the drill is changed to the shoulder blade, go from point to point along the furrow, creating a continuous highway of the desired width and depth. The ugly appearance of the stem is then neatly masked with putty.
For a simpler control of the depth of the hole at the drill slightly higher than the desired mark, you can stick a strip of color island. Then the drill is stopped at the moment when it remains a little to the mark.
This is a special professional tool that is designed to create grooves for the stroke. Equipment is quite expensive and specific purpose. Suitable only for cutting a stroke.
The strooboresis is equipped with two saw discs, which must be set to the desired distance from each other, in height (regulation of the cut of the cut). Vertical strokes are usually made from top to bottom, as the tool has considerable weight. He drinks simultaneously two parallel grooves in the wall, then the material between them is knocked out. and perfectly smooth, beautiful string are ready.
How to last a wall for wiring
Despite the fact that the tasks are different, usually the strokes in the rooms are made precisely for laying electric networks. And here it is important to do everything right, then to be able to safely and comfortably operate all the elements.
The order of work
First they draw up a detailed work plan, outline the main stages, carefully calculate everything and think through.
- Determination of location of sockets, switches, eyeliner wires, etc.D. The plan is drawn carefully, noting each element and place of its location (taking into account the above rules and requirements of SNiP).
- Development of tracks in accordance with the location of the main elements.
- Transfer of a plan to the walls with a marker or pencil. How to do this: note the location of the elements (lamps, sconces, chandeliers, switches, sockets, etc.D.), vertically from them to draw lines upward, not reaching the corner with a canvas, a mark of the installation sites of the distribution boxes, which are connected horizontally straight line and go to the electric shock.
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- Checking all places where the drilling (both the stroke and the recesses for the sockets) will be carried out for the presence of an old wiring using a detector. If a metal frame or lines is found, you need to adjust the plan and bypass them.
- After the plan with adjustments is transferred to the wall, you can begin the stroke: first make holes for distribution boxes and sockets, then they are connected by stroobes.
- After everything is done, distances are measured and entered into the plan.
- Next, cables are laid, fixed in strobes. All cables should be checked for the integrity of the insulation before laying and after.
- The strokes are sealed with the solution, then the cables are checked again, the external parts of the elements are mounted.
We mark the walls under the strokes
When laying a gap for electrical wiring, all general SNiP rules apply, you also need to take care of some specific moments.
- Prepare tools. these can be both modern devices (laser, electronic rangefinders), or ordinary tools (markers, pencils or crayons, ruler or roulette, plumb and level, construction cord).
- The marker designation of the location of the lamps on the ceiling, sockets and switches on the wall, distribution shields/boxes. Measurement of the distances indicated on the plan. It is advisable to outline the boundaries for strokes according to samples of cables, boxing boxes.
- The choice of the width of the curtains in accordance with the cable (here in is the width, n. height). For a three.wire section of section 0.75-4 millimeters from the box to the socket of the strobe make 1 centimeter wide and 1 depth of 1.5 centimeters.
Features of reinforced concrete walls
With a trenched reinforced concrete structures, the metal frame cannot be violated. First, the depth of the steel frame is determined, then the parameters of the sediment are adjusted. If the passage of metal rods is difficult to determine, it is best to do small recesses or not at all in the wall itself, and hide in a layer of plaster.
You can also perform open wiring-make in the form of retro or lay wires in special cable channels. You can attract a designer who will make communications part of the interior. and regions to find a professional will not be difficult.
Making a concrete furrow
To perform a stroke in concrete, various tools are used. a hammer and a chisel, a corner grinder, a peorator, a strobore. The power tool accelerates the process, but lowers the level of security and can provoke the appearance of a large amount of dust. Stroborese is expensive, but it allows you to perform work quickly, efficiently, impregnated practically. Each master selects the method that is suitable for him and realizes the task.
Work on aerated concrete
All the same methods can be used to create a gearbox in aerated concrete as for ordinary concrete. But it is best to choose a special strooborer for foam/gas blocks, which makes two grooves at once. The only minus in working with aerated concrete is the appearance of a huge volume of dust, which in the case of a stroborez goes into a special compartment, in other cases it is necessary to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
Tribal without dust
Dust can be a serious problem in work, so it is worth considering in advance how best to deal with it.
- Moisturize the surface regularly in the process.
- Apply household vacuum cleaner.
- Use a gap with a vacuum cleaner already connected to it. a special casing is provided in the device, which closes both disks and isolates the cutting space, while dust is pulled through the removal of the vacuum cleaner.
- Wet cutting of concrete with an angular grinder. a hose is used, which continuously supplies water to the disk, the entire area of cutting. But here you need to show attentiveness, because if the water enters the tool, it will spoil it.
The use of corner grinders
Corner grinder, or corner grinding machine, is often used to create a strobe. In addition to the specified power tool, it is necessary to purchase a diamond disk.
- Creation of 2 parallel furrows. Make them on the intended line. There should be 2 cm between such cuts.
- Removing the remains. It is long and difficult to do this for a long time and a hammer, so they use a peorator.
Shtroting using an angular grinder is similar to the use of a penetrator. The difference is that in this way it is possible to get a flat furrow, while with the use of only a peorator, this cannot be done.
You can fight the resulting dust with an industrial vacuum cleaner. In this case, you need at least 2 people to stroke one, and the second immediately captures the formed dust.
The use of a barborer
The use of corner grinding or peorator allows you to quickly create a strobes, but involves the formation of a large amount of dust. If there are many grooves, then a large layer of dust is heated in the room, which is problematic even with the use of an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you need to create a furrow for electrical wiring in a panel or brick house so that there is a minimum of dust, a barboresis is used. Outwardly it resembles a corner grinder, but 2 diamond disks are installed in it.
The distance between circles is changed depending on the required width of the furrow. In addition, the depth of the cut is also regulated.
The vacuum cleaner is connected to the strobes, so the dust generated is immediately captured, and the work can be done alone.
The main drawback is the cost of the tool. If you are engaged in a gearing professionally or a large amount of work is performed, then you will have to buy a barborer. In the case of one.time work, when cleanliness in the room is important, the strobores are rented.
Stroke process with different tools
Now you can safely start work. True, the manipulations that you will produce will depend on the result of which the tool you stopped. We offer detailed schemes for all 4 voiced options.
Stroobis with a hammer and chisel
We noted above why this method is the most tedious and inconvenient. However, if you are dealing not with concrete, but with a brick wall, then it is quite possible to successfully arrange the strobes in such an elementary way. What do we have to do?
- First, perform small recesses along the edges of the alleged strob;
- Place the tool along the furrow and methodically drive into the hammer deep;
- Remove the upper layer along the already marked line;
- deepen the groove along the entire length to the required level of 2.5 centimeters;
- After you managed to pastes the walls for the wiring in this way, clean the completed grooves from dust and treat it with a primer;
- As soon as the primer dries, lay the necessary wire in the groove and lay it out with plaster or gypsum, and after. Bend.
We use the peorator
Now you will learn how to stab the walls if you have only a peorator at hand. Unlike the previous considered method using this tool, you can successfully post not only concrete and brick walls, but also drill tiles on the wall. All you need. wide and short drill, as well as a scapula. These are special nozzles, without which your peorator loses almost all of its usefulness when performing this process.
- along the entire length of the future groove for the wiring, perform holes with a depth of 2.5 cm, the distance that must be observed between them. at least 1 cm;
- Using the shoulder blade, perform a stroke device, try to ensure that the shoulder blade is not placed across the groove. Otherwise, there is a risk of blocking the extra fragments of the wall.
Everything is done very quickly, but no matter how neat you are, the groove received will be somewhat torn in nature.
Corner grinder. Quickly but dusty
The presence of a corner grinder at hand helps to cope with the task as accurately and beautifully as possible. over, it does not matter at all whether the base is concrete in front of you, a brick smooth output or even a well.placed surface. However, the dust from its use is unmeasured.
- Buy a diamond disk. Without it, you will not succeed;
- Start the process with the execution of two tiles along the entire length of the strobe. Follow the parallelism and the necessary parameters: depths and width from 2 to 2.5 centimeters;
- Remove the central part with a chisel with a hammer, the peorator can also help.
Unlike all the following methods of the stroke, the use of corner grinding with a diamond spray disk allows you to achieve that the final groove for the wiring will look perfect. And the construction vacuum cleaner will help to cope with dust. True, for this it is necessary to enlist the support of a partner who will keep the vacuum cleaner on directly during the implementation.
We use a gap
Describing the process of use in detail does not make practical sense. Everything lies on the surface. The next video is clearly visible how conveniently and quickly it turns out to stroke the walls with this in some way a “magical” tool.
True, a thoughtful technical device is hiding behind the so.called magic:
- Two diamond circles are closed by a separate casing, which overlaps the point of contact with the wall;
- adjusting the position of the casing, you can determine the necessary depth of the strobe.
The only drawback of the tool we have already mentioned above. high price. However, you have to pay for convenience, right?
Now you know how to cope with the wall of the wall with almost any tool. Fasten your knowledge by looking at the following
Strokes of walls for laying wires: main nuances
Before stroke the walls of your house for wiring, you need to pick up a pencil, a sheet of paper and draw up a detailed wiring plan, which will provide for the placement of all electrical elements. from lamps to switches and sockets. It is also necessary to take into account the material from which the building is built (aerated concrete, brick, wood), and choose a tool that is best suited for arranging a string for electrical wiring.
The distribution of electrical wires in the walls of buildings is regulated by construction standards and rules that need to be studied at least to be visible, since their non.compliance can cause an electrical safety violation in the performance of work. The general provisions of these documents are as follows:
- Stroke the wall for laying the wires so that the groove is directed strictly vertically or horizontally.
- The vertical strobe should be at a distance no less than 0.1 m, from wall openings.
The distance from the electric groove to the gas line should be 0.4 m or more.
- The horizontal groove should be from the ceilings at least 0.15 m.
- The indicators of the depth and width of the strob should not be more than 0.025 m, and its maximum continuous length should not exceed 3 m.
- The wiring should not have a large number of turns in the path of the cable to electric elements from the distribution boxes. It is not recommended to use more than one angular transition.
- It is prohibited from laying horizontal strobes in the supporting walls.
The layout of the wiring must be drawn up, guided by the above rules. this will allow it in accordance with applicable standards and without violation of safety requirements. When the electrical wiring is planned, you can proceed to the next stage of work at which the walls of the walls are carried out with your own hands.
Stroke of walls from aerated concrete and brick
Aerated concrete has a very high strength, so using a chisel for working with them and a hammer can hardly be called a reasonable solution. To the question. than to past the concrete wall. we can answer: best of all with a gateway. It will cut the groove in the wall for wiring without dust, with minimal temporary and labor costs. But if you, like most ordinary owners, do not have such an opportunity, use a peorator or corner grinder.
Brick. the most convenient material for this work. A mixture of cement and sand, which is used to connect the elements of the brick wall, can easily be knocked out even with the help of a chisel and a hammer, so the arrangement of a horizontal strob does not take much time. But breaking the vertical groove will be more complicated, since in this case you will have to work directly with bricks.
Principles of tables of walls from different materials
You can make a channel under electrical wiring in a wall of any material. Any improvised tool will cope with a string in drywall or wood. And for use by concrete, brick or stone, you need to select a tool with special characteristics.
Work in a panel house
Repair work in such a house is complicated by the presence of reinforcement in the supporting walls and joints between panels. Any significant violation of the integrity of these elements can lead to the destruction of the wall or cause deformation. It is necessary to work on a load.bearing wall with reinforcement, since any exposure of the metal will cause its inevitable corrosion. It is for this purpose that the design is covered by 2 cm with a layer of protective concrete. Therefore, if you really want to, then you can make a groove with a depth no more than this size. For this purpose, you can use a peorator or stroobores. The main thing is to set the necessary depth of the strobe.
In addition to load.bearing walls in such houses there are internal partitions from foam concrete. You can work with them by any tool, having previously convinced that the old wiring is de.energized.
Than to stroke brick walls
Brick. artificial stone used for the construction of different objects. It is made of quartz sand, burned cheesecakes, unbroken clay or overwhelming lime rocks. Differs in appearance, shape and characteristics.
Regardless of the material used, the brick walls are difficult to curtain, therefore, to perform work, it is recommended to use a professional tool.
With a shit, it is necessary to be careful, because the brick has the property crumbled, so you can’t do without protective glasses.
Not big life hack. the use of a drill on ceramics and a screwdriver. The bottom line is to use a drill on ceramics as a milling cutter, t.e. Use side edges for stroke brick.
Channel stroke occurs very quickly and without dust. Especially this life hack is suitable for silicate brick.
Than to stroke a monolith
Monolith. a popular building material used in the construction of different objects. Its peculiarity is the use of metal reinforcement and concrete, which is poured directly at the stage of construction of the facility.
This technology has gained popularity due to the low price and high strength of the finished reinforced concrete structures.
A lot of issues concerns the resolution for stroke in monolithic walls.
- GOST r. 50571.15-97 permits the wiring if the work does not affect the functional features of the object;
- SP 31-110-2003-it is allowed to install hidden, but not tattered wiring.
It is forbidden to make wiring in concrete columns, external walls and elevators of elevators.
The monolith of granite is especially difficult, so in this case it will be better to turn to professionals.
Correct sampling of the opening hole
In order not to kill the concrete wall (everyone has already learned that concrete, if it is huddled without incision, is damaged as much as 8-10 centimeters deep and 15-20 centimeters in wide?) and do not kill the tool (and most importantly hands), the hole for the socket must be done in several stages. I bring my written FAQ from the Misish forum as an answer to one local comrade:
- We precisely mark the center of future “holes”. The socket is usually known for the inter-center distance (something about 71 mm) for Plastelectro PE 000 003.
- Take a drill of the same diameter as the axial drill. Often it is 6-8 mm. We are inhabited to a sufficient depth (5 centimeters) all these marked centers. The line of holes should turn out.
- We insert the crown with an axial (guide drill) into our inhabited centers and the ashrater is a little hollowed to form literally millimeters for 2-3 prolved ring-capacity of the future “hole”.
- Then rape the peorator and, most importantly, concrete, no need. We take which boat is at hand and which is not a pity (you can Chinese cheap trash) with a diameter of 8-10-12 mm (more fanaticism) and pour in the resulting circle how much it will turn out. Will be like a revolver drum. This moment was just the most important. He glorifies concrete (gee-gy, like cut the eyes of potatoes as a knife), does not destroy the entire wall and the task of the crown now remains to be drew up and removed.
- We take the crown again, put the drill in the center and endure the work.
- Jumpers between adjacent holes, preventing it from putting a block of sockets, knocked out sharply honed (!) a scapula of the chipper. Sharply honed (fresh sharpening) shovel also rolls concrete well, less damaging it deeper than a dumb tool.
In vidyushka, not everything turned out smoothly, it was recorded from the last. The bottom line was that we needed to make a couple more holes for sockets for a spiritual cabinet and microwave. Their exact height was not particularly fundamental (/- 10 cm), because they are closed by a cabinet. We also stumbled upon the reinforcement (as luck would have the law of meanness), and my hellish partner atzhog on the entire Internet with the washing phrase: “Yes, we cut it out with a corner grinder!»Yeah, well, well-on the final vidyushka-visual aid. It was necessary to shoot at once: “Nasyuyanika, the wall of the wall of the wall!””
The joke is that dust flies from the peorater more than from a barborer! We sometimes drill together: one is drilling, the second holds a vacuum cleaner 🙂 I know the people invents some Kulibinsky devices from the old plastic canister-you put on a vacuum cleaner, cover the drilling and drill. I do not like it, neither a fig is visible, if the crown is jammed. you will not have time to react, drop the tool.
To bypass the main reinforcement, I had to lower the block of sockets down
Here is another example of a similar tilted and made as a future soccer:
Holes for sockets, pushed in a circle
This photo shows how lucky we were: due to the previously plastered walls (two centimeters), we completely calmly have enough depths to accommodate our sockets and not touch (only expose) the main reinforcement of the wall. It is also clearly visible that the very circular reflection of the socket and quite even edges. as if drilling a diamond crown.
Making a stroke using a stroborer with a vacuum cleaner
Once I wrote about a new tool (a vacuum cleaner = improve the quality of work!), and now it remains only to show how they work. Again, vidyushki is almost synthetic, because you really feel the instrument only if you work it yourself-figs you will then return to the grandfather’s method of work!
The vidyushki themselves were again recorded for the MISi forum, since there one comrade asked a completely meticulous thing about how, at what angle it was necessary to knock out the strokes in the walls so as not to cause depth damage to concrete and violation of the strength of the wall. In fact, everything is nowhere easier. Your movements should be cutting, not hollowing. Take a well.honed spatula for a pedorator, put along the string at an acute angle and utter concrete. Since concrete is fragile, it seeks to crack. But it cracks (and falls off) it strictly to the chopped line! She stops the distant passage of cracks. and we get an excellent string.
The wall with broken holes for the sockets is ready for trimming
So. at first, a stroboresis is put into business, and all the necessary holes for the sockets were made to it, so that it is clear exactly where to cut the strokes and not knock down the marked centers of these very sockets. We look.
It turns out we have such a design. Concrete lives freely, because nothing has become with him. only a couple of stripes between which he will crack was just and neatly cut through it. On the video and on the wall we came across a plaster, but believe me. on concrete everything looks the same, except that the speed of stroke is slightly lower. In fact, it was not lucky with the wall. we specifically left it as the only concrete and visual mother of his allowance, and there is a ton of plaster, and which still does not hold. until the beautiful strobes were laid out, it was all crumbled.
Well, this is where I finish. Once again, we arranged huge trash-provaps in the apartment, collected 12 garbage bags, scared the customer (he had come and saw everything, I even had a phrase prepared: “You don’t go to your office without Valocordin, there are trash there!”). As a result of all the work, such beauty is obtained. All concrete is alive, the corner grinder was never needed at all.
Result: knocked out holes and strokes for laying cables
Dare, stroobit and use a normal tool and normal brain! And once again I apologize for the dusk style of the northwest. I ran from the order, sat down, wrote, put it in a habit.